Basement and cellar
Plant dahlias outdoors. Dahlias - planting and growing

Plant dahlias outdoors. Dahlias - planting and growing

AT open ground. What special conditions are required for this flower. How much is he environment and what kind of care it requires. The information below will help answer these questions.

Landing dates

There are no specific dates, as everything depends on the climate zone. From the practice of experienced flower growers, it is believed that the most suitable time for planting dahlias, regardless of weather conditions, is the period from late May to early June. If planted early, the tubers may freeze and not sprout in the cold days of early May. If planted later, in the midst of a hot summer, immature seedlings of flowers will burn out at the end of July.

With the onset of stable normal temperature conditions, without the threat of sudden frosts, dahlias are planted in the first half or middle of May.

Did you know? The word "dahlia" appeared in 1803. It was invented by the botanist Karl Wildenov, who gave this name to the flower in honor of the academician from St. Petersburg, botanist, geographer and ethnographer Johann Georgi.

Growing conditions

When the settled weather in the spring allows planting in open ground, it should be remembered that these flowers do not tolerate drafts and darkened or overly lit places.
An area with partial shade is ideal, which has free circulation of air. It is recommended to change the landing site annually. In order for dahlias not to degenerate and not get sick, the site for this crop should not be used for three years.

Location and lighting

These colors do not require special conditions. Even being in constant shade only results in reduced size and more faded blooms.

Therefore, in order to get all the riot of colors of this beautiful flower, you should grow it in light partial shade. Such placement will allow not only the plant to fully develop, but also to maximize its flowering period.
Required condition, which should be observed - the place of cultivation should be with a moderate level of humidity. Lowlands, in which accumulation of excess moisture is possible, are not suitable for this crop.

To maintain normal humidity, under adverse conditions, a bed is used, created in the form of a layer of expanded clay or broken red brick, which is located below the plant.

Soil Requirements

Any type is suitable for growing this flower. With proper planting, dahlias grow normally both on black soil and on loam and sandstone.
Although the type and composition is not particularly important, the planting site must have good water permeability (drainage is desirable) and sufficient nutrient content (application).

Adjustable as follows:

at a pH below 5, slaked lime is added to the soil;
if the pH is above 8, this indicator can be lowered using.

Did you know? The tubers of wild dahlias were eaten by the ancient Aztecs because they are high in inulin, a substance similar to starch.

How to plant dahlias in spring

When the time comes to plant dahlias, planting holes 30 deep and 40 cm in diameter are arranged, which are arranged in one row or scattered, with a distance of 70-80 cm between them. The free area for one plant should be at least 0.8-1 sq. m.

The tubers should be germinated before planting. This is done in the following way:

In a free area, a trench of the required length is dug with a depth of one bayonet and a width of two bayonets of a shovel.
Tubers are laid at the bottom, which were dug out in the fall, with a division into varieties.
Undivided tubers are covered with earth with a layer of 3-4 cm.
From above, the trench is covered with a transparent plastic film to create a greenhouse effect.
After 2-3 weeks, sprouts appear.
The tubers are dug up and divided with a sharp knife into parts that have 2-3 sprouts on each neck.
After treatment with potassium permanganate, the tubers are ready for planting.

Planting dahlias

With the onset of warm weather in spring, the time comes when dahlias should be planted in open ground. Holes before planting are filled with earth mixed with weathered peat or humus.

For one hole, 3-4 kg of fertilizer is enough. It is recommended to add the following useful elements:

- 15 g;
potassium sulfate - 10 g;
- 15-20 g.

When the holes are prepared, a wooden stake up to 1 m high is driven in their center, to which the flower will be tied after it grows. After that, tubers are planted with the condition that the depth of immersion in the ground will be 3-4 cm more than the previous planting. This is determined by the first internode to be covered with soil.

An earthen rim is poured along the perimeter of the hole at a distance of 15-20 cm from the stem to hold 5-6 liters of water during.

Post disembarkation care

An important condition for the normal growth and development of a flower is the constant support of the soil in which it grows in a wet state. Drying out is unacceptable, as this can lead to the death of the plant.

Watering is carried out using a watering can with a spray nozzle for 10-15 minutes. This contributes to the uniform absorption of moisture into the soil and allows you to increase the humidity of the air, which favorably affects.
Conducted monthly

Thanks to the incomparable flowers of the most beautiful color and variety of forms, the dahlia genus deserves a prominent place in any garden. Few flower growers do not admire the magnificence of this plant. The history of the appearance of the dahlia is connected with the legend that the dahlia appeared on the site of the last fire, which died out during the attack. ice age. And the first to germinate after the arrival of heat, marking the victory of life over death, and heat over cold.

Intensive selection work has led to the creation of a huge number of varieties - now their number is in the tens of thousands. This flower has two official names- Dahlia (most common in England) and Dahlia.

The Aztecs worshiped this plant, considering it an incarnation, the warriors depicted it on their shields and clothes, wore it as an amulet, believing that it gives them strength and courage. The aborigines used the tubers for food, and the hollow stems were used in the construction of water pipes. Dahlia is considered a symbol of all-conquering life, stamina, freedom, impregnability, pride. The Japanese consider it a symbol of greatness. The dahlia is the national flower of Mexico.

The dahlias we admire today were obtained by crossing the Mexican species Dahlia coccinnta and Dahlia variabilis. These are herbaceous perennial plants, the roots of which have powerful tuberous thickenings with a supply of nutrients. The stems are hollow, branching, pinnately divided, opposite, green-blue leaves on elongated petioles. Flowers are collected in inflorescences-baskets, blooming from summer to the first slight frosts. Reed flowers are flat, spatulate, ribbon-like, rolled into a tube of various colors; tubular - yellow or orange.

Depending on the size of the inflorescence, dahlias are divided into giant (diameter more than 25 cm), large (up to 25), medium (20-25), small (10-15) and miniature - up to 10 cm.

Growing dahlias from seeds

Sowing directly into the ground

Considering that these plants are very thermophilic and do not tolerate even short-term light frosts, they can be sown in the ground only after the 20th of May, in order to be sure that the night frost will not destroy the seedlings.

However, there is a significant drawback here: in this case, you can see it not earlier than August.

Therefore, many gardeners still arrange a mini-greenhouse or greenhouse for these flowers and sow already in the twentieth of March. You can use old window frames or stretch a film over the arcs.

The prepared bed should stand for a couple of days after digging, so that the earth settles.
The furrows are stuffed shallow, the distance is 60 cm.
In a row we sow less often, the plants need space, thick seedlings break through or transplant after, leaving a distance between the bushes of at least 60 cm.
After sowing, the earth is leveled with a rake, filling the furrows.
We water well, you can sprinkle the bed with a thin layer of rotted humus to prevent the formation of an earthen crust.

Often not necessary, natural moisture should be enough for several days. But if the weather is hot, make sure that the earth does not dry out.

Growing dahlias for seedlings at home

When planting dahlia seeds immediately on the garden bed, flowering will not occur until mid-August. When planting seeds at home for seedlings, an earlier start of flowering is achieved. Growing in this way usually does not cause any trouble for flower growers. The only point to be taken into account is that dahlia seedlings do not tolerate even mild frosts.

It is convenient to grow dahlias with seeds for decoration of borders, discounts. Plants grown from seeds form a small tuber by autumn. Therefore, you can save the copy you like and land it next season to admire it next summer. Dahlia seeds ripen well - they can be harvested and saved for planting next year.

Annual dahlias are sown for seedlings in April, but if you want to get nodules of a perennial variety, you need to sow in early March.

Prepare containers that provide drainage. If using food packaging, be sure to make holes in the bottom.
Fill the containers with nutritious loose soil rich in organic matter. Remember, simple garden soil will have a bad effect on the health of seedlings: during care, it tends to become very compact. Therefore, it is better to buy a special mixture for flowers. Well, or not be too lazy by adding rotted organic matter, peat and sand in equal proportions to the garden soil.
Sowing is done shallow, 1-1.5 cm. It is advisable to sow less often, leaving a distance of 2-3 cm between the seeds.
When small dahlias release 2-3 true leaves, they are carefully dived into separate cups. You can use a fork, a teaspoon or any other tool convenient for you. The main thing is not to damage the tender roots and move them with a clod of earth.
Then just water and provide sufficient lighting.
When warm weather sets in, we arrange seedlings for walks outside: we accustom them to the wind and the sun. We gradually increase the time and by the end of the second week of hardening, our seedlings should be outside for a full day. Such hardened seedlings will not hurt after planting and will quickly be accepted.

When to plant dahlias outdoors

At the end of May, when there is no longer a threat of night frosts, seedlings and tubers are planted in a flower bed. In some regions even earlier, it all depends on the weather. Dahlias bloom 60-90 days after they sprout, depending on the variety.

Planting seedlings of dahlias in spring in the ground

Planting seedlings of dahlias in the ground- a joyful stage for the gardener. Finally, the flowers will go to the flower bed. Here I would like to give some advice:

Try to avoid strict rows, landing will look unnatural, too stiff. It is better to combine dahlias with rudbeckia bushes, or asteriscus, imitating natural randomness.
Give more space for each bush, the distance to other plants is at least 60 cm.
The wells are prepared in advance, they are made wider and deeper than the seedling cups, it is advisable to pour a little humus on the bottom.
Seedlings are planted, carefully removing a clod of earth so that the earth does not crumble from the roots.
They are placed vertically in the hole, trying to maintain the existing level of the root collar.
Sprinkle with earth, moisturize abundantly.
It is advisable to mulch the root space with any material at hand: fresh grass, sawdust, needles.

Planting dahlia tubers in spring

Before planting, dahlia tubers should be prepared: washed from the ground and kept in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate for about half an hour. Then the tubers are laid out in boxes with sawdust treated with boiling water and germinated at room temperature until sprouts appear.

After the tubers have sprouted, they should be divided before planting to allow the bushes to develop fully in the new season.

How to divide the tubers before planting, look at the video:

After the tubers are ready for planting, we begin the process itself. Prepare deep holes, approximately 30 cm deep and 40 cm in diameter. Pour humus to the bottom, mix with garden soil. Spread one division of tubers in each hole, cover with earth, the distance from the tuber to the surface of the earth is about 5-8 cm.

For details on planting dahlias with tubers in the spring, see the video:

Reproduction of dahlias by dividing tubers

Tubers are prepared for planting in advance. First they are placed in wet sawdust or peat.
After the sprouts appear, they are carefully divided with a sharp knife into several parts, so that each has sprouts.
The sections are dried and sprinkled with ash or activated carbon. After that, they are again placed in sawdust for rooting.
As soon as warm weather is established without, they are planted in pre-prepared holes.
1/3 of a bucket of humus or compost is added to each well.
The delenka is placed in the hole so that the sprouts are at the surface of the soil.
Water well and cover with compost.
The root neck should be at ground level.

Propagation of dahlias by cuttings

At the end of February, dahlia roots are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and placed in boxes, half covered with a light nutrient substrate, watered moderately.
Cuttings are taken after 3-4 weeks.
Processed with root and planted in individual cups.
To speed up rooting, you can cover the plantings with polyethylene.
Rooting occurs within two weeks.
In early June, they are planted in groups or rows at a distance of 60 cm.

Growing conditions

Dahlias prefer sunny areas. They grow excellently in partial shade, but are much taller than plants planted in the sun.
Deep shade negatively affects development and flowering.
They love sufficiently moist soil - for this, the land under plantings should be mulched with semi-rotted sawdust or mowed grass. This will prevent moisture from evaporating and prevent weeding.
Top dressing is carried out in cases where organic components were not introduced into the soil during planting.
Use liquid complex fertilizer every two weeks.
A support must be placed under tall varieties - this will protect the stem from breakage during bad weather and strong winds.

No more than 3 shoots should be left on each bush. To get more on the central peduncles, you should cut off all the side shoots. It is imperative to remove faded buds to allow young ones to develop. The fewer buds, the larger the flowers.

After the first frost has damaged the bushes, they should be dug up. Cut the stem at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground and carefully dig out the root, trying not to damage it in the process. Very often, liquid accumulates inside the hollow stem and this causes the plant to rot during storage. Therefore, the tuber is turned upside down, allowing the liquid to flow out. After that, you can dry the tubers outdoors during the day, weather permitting. Then they are transferred to storage in a dry basement.

Diseases and pests

Dahlias are quite resistant, but waterlogging of the soil should not be allowed, which contributes to the development of diseases and the attack of slugs. Against aphids and mites, periodically irrigate your plants with tar water. When infected with a viral mosaic, light spots appear on the leaf plates, yellowing along the veins. Such plants should be culled. If uncharacteristic growths are found on the tubers, which indicates a bacterial cancer, the infected tubers are destroyed.

Types of dahlias with photos and descriptions

Dahlia tree Dahlia arborea- a species with a powerful woody stem, reaching a height of 2 m. It has simple lilac baskets.

Dahlia coccinea The leaves of this species are pinnate with pointed lobes. Baskets are simple and small.
The species Dahlia juarezii has a stem about 1 m high with deeply cut dark malachite leaves and multi-colored inflorescences. cacti-like dahlias originated from it.

Dahlia changeable Dahlia variabilis- has simple baskets with red reed and yellow tubular flowers.
All these species, originally from Mexico, laid the foundation for a variety of varieties that our flower growers so loved. They absolutely do not tolerate even the lightest frosts and are grown as annuals in our strip. But dahlia tubers overwinter well in dry, cool rooms like potato tubers. To do this, they are dug up and re-planted in the spring.

There is a division of dahlias according to the shape of the inflorescence

Anemone. Srednerosly group with semi-double inflorescences outwardly similar to anemones.

collared. The tubular petals of this plant are shorter than those of other species. The middle of the inflorescence is made up of small tubular petals with a collar of one row of large flat petals of contrasting colors.

Peony. Outwardly similar to peonies. The most extensive and colorful view.

Lotus or Nymphaeaceae. All varieties of this species are terry and the largest.

Decorative. The most common variety, including the largest number of varieties.

Ball-shaped and pom-pom-shaped. Similar to each other and differ in size. Both have double flowers, resembling a ball, consisting of many petals. Pompon-shaped, the diameter of which does not exceed 5 cm. Spherical - 8-15 cm. Both species are tall.

cactus. The most original variety, their inflorescences consist of long narrow, folded petals, sometimes dissected at the ends.

Application

The medicinal properties of dahlias make it possible to classify them as medicinal plants. Decoctions of these flowers normalize metabolic processes useful for the cardiovascular system. Tincture of rhizomes is used as a prophylactic against diabetes. Fresh leaves are applied to the skin to treat acne. Rhizomes are used in crushed form as a mask for aging facial skin. Tuber powder is rubbed into the base of the hair follicles to strengthen the hair.

Low-growing varieties are used for borders, flowerpots, balcony boxes. Most varieties are used in free compositions or group plantings. And especially spectacular, profusely flowering - in single plantings. Varieties with long, strong flower stalks are used for cutting and stand well in water for more than a week.

Dahlias have always been loved by our flower growers. Some of them collect entire collections - their flower beds attract attention with an abundance of flowering dahlias. The abundance of planting material on store shelves, sufficient unpretentiousness, lush flowering put dahlias among the most popular plants in our areas.

Currently, there are more than 40 natural species of dahlias. On their basis, breeders around the world have bred several thousand very beautiful hybrid varieties with unusual inflorescences. Of the most common varieties grown in garden plots, the following can be mentioned:

Dahlias can be annual or perennial. According to the size of the bush they are divided into:

Giant - above 25 centimeters; ;
Large - from 20 to 25 centimeters;
Medium - from 15 to 20 centimeters;
Small - from 10 to 15 centimeters;
Dwarf - below 10 centimeters.

For growing dahlias, you should select a flat place, well lit and protected from the winds. Therefore, they are best planted near buildings or small shrubs. Neighborhood next to large trees that will draw a large amount of nutrients and moisture from the soil is not recommended.

The soil in the selected area should be loose, well permeable and contain a sufficient amount of nutrients. This is required for abundant flowering and the formation of full-fledged tubers. If the soil is heavy, then when digging it is necessary to add humus, peat and coarse sand to it. If it is, on the contrary, sandy, then its composition is improved with the help of clay and compost.

For growing dahlias, you need to choose tubers with large quantity peepholes and no signs of mold and rot. They should be of medium size, as large specimens are old and small specimens are quite weak. Such tubers may not give a full-fledged bush with abundant flowering.

Although tuber-grown dahlias are considered perennial crops, they do not tolerate overwintering in the soil in most regions. Therefore, after the first frosts come, the stems of dahlias are cut off, leaving about 10 centimeters above the surface. Then, in the morning or evening of a sunny day, you need to carefully dig the plant out of the ground, clean off the remaining soil from the tubers, rinse, soak them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, Bordeaux liquid or fungicide for about half an hour and dry thoroughly for one week. Before sending them to the room in which they will be stored, they are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon.

For growing dahlias, you need to choose tubers with a large number of eyes.

To store dahlias in the winter in the cellar or basement, you can use various methods:

Dried and processed tubers are placed in one layer in wooden boxes or cardboard boxes filled with sand or coniferous sawdust, and completely fall asleep on top;
Wrap each tuber in cling film and put in boxes or on racks;
Place the tubers in special parchment bags filled with storage compounds;
If several varieties of dahlias are stored for storage, then it is recommended to sign the name on the containers;
The basement or cellar should be dry with good ventilation, air temperature from 1 to 10 degrees and humidity from 50 to 80 percent.

If the tubers will be stored in the apartment, then you need to make a special shell for them. To do this, melt 400 grams of paraffin and 100 grams of wax in a water bath and cool slightly. After that, dip each tuber in the resulting composition and allow the coating to harden. The prepared planting material should be laid out in plastic bags, sprinkled with sawdust or peat, and stored in a cool place, for example, in a refrigerator in a vegetable box. In this case, the paraffin-wax shell will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the tubers, and the low temperature will prevent them from germinating for a long time.

Dahlia tubers are not recommended to be planted as a whole, as the plants grown from them lose their decorative effect. Planting material with a sharp knife is divided into parts, each of which must contain a peephole. Sections are treated with wood ash and left to dry for several days.

After that, they are sent for germination in boxes filled with special moist, sterilized soil, this can be:

Sand with peat;
coconut substrate;
Sand with sawdust.

The laying of tubers for germination is carried out from the end of February to the beginning of May, depending on the climatic conditions of the region.

Preparing a place for dahlias

It is advisable to prepare beds for dahlias in the fall. To saturate the soil with useful substances, you need to enrich it with mineral and organic fertilizers, for example, add 30 grams of superphosphate and 2 buckets of manure per square meter. It is also necessary to ensure that the reaction of the soil is neutral or slightly acidic. To reduce acidity, 300 grams of slaked lime is applied per square meter of soil. After that, the site is dug up to a depth of at least 30 centimeters and carefully leveled.

It is advisable to prepare beds for dahlias in the fall

In the spring, before planting in the ground, you need to apply 30 grams of potash fertilizer per square meter of soil and loosen it deeply. Germinated dahlia tubers are planted in the soil after the spring frosts have ended and the soil warms up to 10 degrees. With early forcing, the first inflorescences bloom as early as June, and with good care, flowering can continue until mid-autumn.

In order to spend proper fit germinated material, the following recommendations should be followed:

On the prepared site, holes are dug with a depth of 10 to 15 centimeters, depending on the size of the seedling, then they are shed with warm water;
The distance between single landings should be from 60 to 100 centimeters;
Tubers with sprouts are carefully removed from the box, placed in a hole, covered with soil;
After planting, the beds are well watered.

Flowers from seedlings

In order to grow seedlings of dahlias from seeds, you should:

Fill seedling boxes with peat-sand mixture and slightly moisten it;
Spread the seeds evenly over the surface of the soil and lightly cover with the substrate;
Landings should be covered with polyethylene film or glass and placed in a warm room with good lighting;
Boxes with seedlings should be regularly released for several hours from shelter;
At good quality seeds, the first sprouts should appear a week after sowing;
After the appearance of the third leaf, the seedlings are picked into individual containers filled with a soil mixture of equal parts of soddy soil, sand and peat. It is best if they are peaty. In this case, there will be no need to remove the seedlings from them, you just need to place them in the holes along with the pot, which will dissolve in the soil.

Boxes with seedlings should be regularly released for several hours from shelter

Planting seedlings of dahlias in the soil is carried out as follows:

Two weeks before planting in open ground, dahlia seedlings begin to harden. To do this, it is taken out into the street and left for 10 minutes, gradually increasing the time to several hours;
2-3 hours before planting dahlias, seedlings are watered abundantly;
On the site, holes are prepared with a depth of 7 to 10 centimeters at a distance of at least 50 centimeters from each other;
Seedlings are distributed over the holes, covered with soil, compacted and moistened.

And from cuttings

Dahlia cuttings allow you to get a large number of seedlings from one tuber. To do this, it is planted in a box with sand and peat and moistened regularly. After the sprouts that have appeared reach a height of about 15 centimeters, they must be carefully cut with a sharp knife above the first internode. After that, new eyes will appear on the tuber, and new shoots will begin to grow from the sinuses of the remaining parts of the shoots, which will be ready for cutting in a few weeks. In this way, up to 30 cuttings can be obtained from one tuber. There are other cutting methods.

Dahlia cuttings allow you to get a large number of seedlings from one tuber

Cut cuttings are rooted in the usual way in seedling boxes with a nutritious soil mixture. Also, for the formation of roots, you can put the cuttings in a container of water, in which a growth stimulator is added. With the onset of suitable weather, rooted cuttings are planted in open ground.

How to grow dahlias from seeds the seedless way

In a seedless way, annual varieties of dahlias are planted. To do this, the seeds are sown directly into the ground after warm weather is established. Usually landing is carried out from mid-May to early June. To do this, a flower bed is formed on the prepared site, shallow grooves are made on it, the seeds are evenly distributed over them at a distance of about 20 centimeters from each other, covered with a thin layer of substrate and gently watered. The flowering of annual dahlias grown in a seedless way occurs in early August.

Watering is essential for growing healthy and well developed dahlia bushes. Both perennial and annual species of these flowers need to be watered abundantly, but only after the soil dries out. With excessive waterlogging, various rots of the root system can develop, which, without timely treatment often leads to the death of the entire plant.

For tall varieties, you need to install supports and fix growing stems on them. Otherwise, they will break, and the plant will become unsightly. As a support for dahlias, both ordinary wooden or metal stakes and decorative elements for a garden plot can be used.

Watering is essential for growing healthy and well developed dahlia bushes.

For good growth and abundant flowering, dahlias need to be regularly fed once every fortnight. In this case, the alternation of mineral fertilizers and organic matter is recommended. To do this, you can use a solution of superphosphate at the rate of 50 grams per 20 liters of water. For organic feeding, 1 kilogram of mullein is bred in 10 liters of water, or 1 kilogram of bird droppings is dissolved in 20 liters of water. Under each plant, 1 liter of the indicated nutrient compositions is poured. It is recommended to water the plants a few hours before fertilizing.

In rainy weather or with dense planting, dahlias may begin to rot the root system. Outwardly, this can be seen from the withering stems with traces of rot. In this case, the affected leaves and other parts must be removed from the plant. After that, you need to spray the bushes with a fungicide solution and spill the soil on them. Also, dahlias are often damaged by aphids, thrips and Colorado potato beetles, which suck out a large amount of nutrients from them. If insects are found, it is necessary to immediately treat the plants with an infusion of garlic or onions. In especially severe cases, an insecticide solution is used.

In order for dahlia bushes to have an attractive compact appearance, they are stepchildren

In order for the dahlia bushes to have an attractive compact appearance, they are stepchildren, leaving three shoots and two buds on each peduncle on the plants. In tall varieties, side shoots are removed. This contributes to the formation of larger and brighter inflorescences.

Of course, dahlias cannot be called completely unpretentious plants. But, having studied the rules for their maintenance, you can continue to spend a minimum amount of time and effort on caring for them. At the same time, many modern hybrid varieties of these plants make it possible to create the most diverse and original compositions on the garden plot.

One of the most beautiful flowers widely used in the design of flower beds and flower beds is dahlias. These bright flowers attract the eye for almost half of the summer and the warm period of autumn. In addition, dahlias are unpretentious to weather conditions and are not capricious in their care. For successful growth and flowering, they need good soil, plenty of light, timely watering, top dressing, pinching and pruning.

We will talk about how to prepare for planting dahlias in the spring and how to properly plant them with tubers.

Caring for dahlias begins with the preparation of tubers. During the winter, the tubers are stored in a dry cellar, and at the end of March they are taken out to a room with a constant temperature level of +18 + 20 ° C. Tubers are sorted for damage, rot, dried parts. Damaged places are cut off with a knife, the sections are disinfected with brilliant green.

Tuber germination

The next step is to place the flower tubers in a box with a nutrient substrate.

The substrate is prepared from sawdust, sand, peat. You can use ready-made land for planting dahlias, sold in specialized stores.
Before being placed in the ground, the tubers are treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
Root crops do not need to be completely buried in the ground, they should peek out of the soil by 2-3 cm. In this position, the tubers are left for two weeks, maintaining stable lighting and temperature conditions.

Tuber division

Two weeks later, the eyes on the tubers begin to sprout. You need to wait until they grow up, and then divide the root crop into parts. When cutting, use a sharp knife treated with potassium permanganate to avoid fungal infections. The tubers are cut into as many pieces as there are buds. Usually one tuber is divided into 3-5 parts. After that, the cut parts are again placed in a container with soil and cleaned in a dark place. Plants are watered as needed, avoiding drying out. After they are accepted, they are planted in open ground.

It is important to pay attention to the appearance of dahlia tubers. Low sprouts and healthy, fleshy, hard-to-touch roots make these tubers ideal for planting.

Landing site preparation

A well-chosen place for planting flowers is the key to their good growth and flowering. When choosing a place where it is planned to plant dahlias in the spring, it should be borne in mind that the flowers need:

A large amount of light;
Good ventilation;
Loose nutrient soil with an average level of acidity - acidity can be neutralized by adding slaked lime to the ground at the rate of 1 kg / sq. meter;
Moderate humidity.

It is necessary to prepare the soil since autumn: fertilize it with humus, compost and wood ash. Dahlias need to be planted in a new place. The soil where flowers or vegetables susceptible to fungal diseases used to grow is undesirable.

Planting dahlias in open ground

The disembarkation process itself must be carried out under the following conditions:

Well preparation. The optimal size of holes for planting tubers: depth 10 cm, diameter 20-30 cm. The deeper the tuber is planted, the better it will endure autumn frosts. The distance between the holes should be made from 30 to 80 cm. Drainage is necessary at the bottom of the holes.
One hole no more than two tubers are planted. This provides lush, profusely flowering bushes.
Dahlias are recommended to be planted in spring in stable warm weather, into the ground warmed up to 10°C.
The tubers are placed into the hole horizontally, thanks to this, the root system will develop fully.
After landing dahlias are followed by minimal care: periodic watering and weeding.

Each time after watering, the earth is loosened with a rake - to ensure normal breathing for the roots. As it grows, the lower weak branches are removed. Top dressing is applied only after the beginning of flowering. Otherwise, all the nutrients will be spent on the formation of green lush branches.

Compliance with these simple rules when planting dahlias, it will allow you to admire the luxuriantly flowering variegated plants during the season.

In order for your flower garden to be decorated with magnificent dahlias, planting and growing must go according to all the rules. Lush bushes are suitable for the center of the composition of a flower bed or as a decorative screen between the zones of a summer cottage. Dwarf varieties can be used for borders, and for decoration interiors they are grown in pots. Breeders have bred varieties with all kinds of forms of petals and flower structure, it is difficult to list all the shades of dahlias: from snow-white to almost black.

There is one point in which the plant shows character: its inflorescences do not want to take on a blue color. Both experienced breeders and amateur flower growers are struggling with this problem, but there is no solution yet. Try experimenting: pollinate, graft, use different varieties of seeds, you may be able to create an unprecedented color.

Receiving seed

How to choose the right course in a sea of sizes, shapes and colors of dahlias? First of all, think: do you want to dig up tubers every fall, store them in the right conditions, and plant in the spring? Keep in mind that the main work will have to be done at the most difficult time: it's time to harvest potatoes, cabbage, beets, prepare beds for the new season - and flower tubers cannot remain in the ground either, the first frosts can destroy them. The warm time has come, when, according to the proverb, one day will feed the whole year - and the roots are already asking for the ground. Do not be afraid of difficulties - a perennial variety is at your service. If you don’t like additional worries, annuals from seeds will help out.

If you want the site to be decorated with annuals, grow flowers from seeds. You can sow seeds in the spring directly into the ground, but then the flower bed will be painted with a flowering carpet by the end of summer, and in Siberia and the northern regions, the plants may not have time to bloom. This method is suitable if plants are planted on the lawn that bloom from May to July. How to plant dahlias so that a colorful composition pleases the eye all summer? Grow flowers through seedlings.

In April, take containers with disinfected sand, pour a bag of seeds onto the surface and cover with a layer of sand. Pour well, cover with a film or lid and place in a warm place with a temperature of 25⁰ to 27⁰. Seedlings will appear in about 2 weeks. When the third true leaf comes out, pick the seedlings into separate cups and grow until planting in a flower bed.

Tubers of perennial species should be divided into parts every spring. Rhizomes grow strongly during the season, and many roots can be separated from one bush for planting. When tubers germinate, many lateral processes appear, which flower growers cut off. They can be rooted and planted in open ground. Therefore, the reproduction of perennial dahlias can be carried out by three methods:

From seeds the same as annuals.
The division of the rhizome.
cuttings.

Before looking for an answer to the question of how to plant dahlias, choose the right place to plant. These flowers do not tolerate stagnant damp air, they must be planted in a ventilated area. Just do not arrange a flower bed in a narrow gap between buildings: these flowers will not grow in a draft or in places where the sun rarely gets. Excellent conditions for them will be on an open bright lawn or on the south side of the house, where dense shrubs hold back strong gusts of wind. It is advisable to change the landing site every season, and only after 3 years it will be possible to return to the previous site.

The soil should be neutral, a slight deviation to the acid side is allowed. Check the pH, if the value is below 5, add lime to the soil, if more than 7, add peat. During autumn digging, put half a bucket of compost or humus per 1 m2. In the spring, you can also add compost and a little ash. Do not overdo it with alkaline top dressings, they can be poured safely only on very acidic soils.

Tubers for planting need to start preparing in early spring, in April. Inspect the rhizomes, separate the diseased, dry and damaged parts, and treat with a disinfectant. Fill the containers with nutrient soil, plant the tubers so that the tops rise slightly above the ground. Put the boxes in a bright warm place, moisten the soil and watch when the plants release buds. Then cut the rhizome so that each part has a budding shoot.

Bury the planting material again in boxes with earth, and before planting in open ground, leave the central sprouted bud, and cut off all side shoots. If you need a lot of dahlias, stick the cut sprouts into the sand, remove at night, and keep the soil moist. When the shoots take root, they are planted in a permanent place.

Tubers and seedlings from seeds in the middle lane are planted in open ground in early May. In the Urals, in Siberia and the northern regions, you need to navigate by the weather: the soil should warm up well, and the threat of frost should pass. Before planting, pits are prepared for planting tubers. They should be 40 cm in diameter and in depth. Cover the bottom with compost or rotted manure, sprinkle lightly with earth on top. Bury the rhizome so that the lower part of the sprouts is buried a few centimeters into the ground. For tall bushes, immediately install garter pegs. Pour the plantings with cold water and pour a layer of mulch at least 5 cm.

flower care

In hot, dry weather, dahlias should not be made to suffer from thirst. You can water infrequently, 2 times a week is enough, but the amount of water should be sufficient to soak the soil to the planting depth. If the soil is not covered with mulch, hilling will help reduce the evaporation of moisture. Before watering, rake a mound around the stem, level it with the surface of the soil. Moisten the soil, and then spud the flowers again.

For lush flowering, dahlias need good nutrition, fertilize 2 times a month until buds appear. First, apply complex fertilizer, after 2 weeks pour slurry. When flower buds appear, dilute 30 g of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in a bucket of water and distribute this amount to 8 plants.

If you want to have a bright flower bed covered with many inflorescences, dahlias can be left uncut. The flowers will be smaller, but in the general mass, no one will notice this drawback. For bouquets, it is important that each flower is large and even. Choose no more than 2 of the largest and highest quality buds on each shoot, remove the rest. Do not let the plants produce lower shoots that take strength from the main stem, cut off the shoots that appear. Flowers that have begun to fade continue to use nutrients that could be used to form new buds. We noticed that the petals begin to dry out - immediately cut off the inflorescence. Annuals from seeds can not be cut.

Problems when growing dahlias

If dahlias are not tied up in time in spring, wind or heavy rain can break fragile stems. Do not rush to throw away the fallen process, give it the same help as in case of a broken bone in animals or humans. Take a strong splinter and tie it to the stem so that it takes the correct position. Tie the plant well to the stake so that the damaged shoot does not sway or lean. With the correct and timely garter, the shoot will recover and will soon begin to develop in the same way as intact plants.

The succulent stems and leaves attract many pests. Who can attack the flowers?

slugs,
earwigs,
caterpillars,
thrips,
ticks,

Advice. If there are not very many pests, try to deal with them without chemicals. In the evening, you can spray the bushes with decoctions of bitter herbs: celandine, wormwood. From aphids, a solution of laundry soap helps well.

Tuber wintering

The tubers do not tolerate cold and will die during wintering in the open field. With the threat of frost, they need to be dug out of the soil and put away for storage. The first frost is not terrible for rhizomes, but after it, "Indian summer" usually comes. Plants can take a temporary warming for the onset of the warm season and begin to sprout. After that, next year you can not wait for a full-fledged flowering bush.

Do not rush to cut off the above-ground part: the cuts are very sensitive, they can rot from dew and rain. Choose a warm, sunny day so that the rhizomes can dry out in the fresh air. The succulent stalk breaks easily, and if you immediately put the tubers in bags for transportation, half of them will be damaged. In the morning, cut off the entire aerial part, leaving a part of the stem no more than 10 cm high.

At a distance of 30 cm from the root collar, cut the top layer of soil around the plant with a shovel. Cut through the soil with a full bayonet to cut off the long shoots of the roots. Carefully pick up the tubers with a pitchfork and uproot them. Remove large clods of earth with your hands, and then rinse the rhizomes with a hose. During the day, the tubers will dry out, become less fragile, and they can be transferred to wintering. In the storage, carefully inspect each rhizome, remove diseased, rotten and damaged parts, and treat the cuts and root collar with crushed charcoal.

The tubers winter well in a ventilated place with a temperature of +5⁰ and a humidity of about 70%. To absorb excess moisture, they can be buried in dry peat or sawdust. Periodically inspect the rhizomes, and if they begin to dry, lightly moisten the peat. It is not always possible to find a store with good ventilation, and without ventilation, dahlias will rot. To save planting material from stagnation of moist air, blow them with a fan for half an hour every other day.

Advice. If there is no suitable storage, dip the rhizomes in melted paraffin and put them in a bag, sprinkled with dry sand. The film will not allow the tubers to dry out or rot. Before planting, lightly squeeze or rub the tuber to crack the coating.

Conclusion

In order for your site to be decorated with lush dahlias, cultivation and care must be carried out in accordance with all the rules. Annual species grown from seed require less maintenance than perennials. They are low, these flowers do not need support. In autumn, you just need to dig up and destroy faded plants, and plant new seedlings the following spring. Such species are well suited for framing a flower garden, borders, small flower beds. Your task is to water and feed the plants in time, and a bright carpet will be provided.

Perennial varieties can also be grown from seeds or cuttings, but the easiest way to propagate flowers is to divide the rhizome. Such species are more diverse and beautiful than varieties growing from seeds in one season, but they also require more attention. In winter, it is necessary to ensure that the tubers are properly stored, periodically inspect and remove rotten areas. Choose according to your time and possibilities, which varieties you will grow, whether you can provide the necessary care for dahlias. In any case, both dwarf flowering plants and tall bushes will decorate the summer cottage.

Dahlias are a luxurious decoration for any flower bed. Bright, large flowers attract with a variety of shapes and colors, while planting dahlias and caring for them in the open field are not very difficult.

Bright and elegant dahlias are a beautiful and demanding garden decoration. Choosing the right place

When choosing a place where dahlias will settle in the future, you need to consider the purpose of their cultivation - decorative or reproduction for sale. If the plans include the sale of dahlia tubers, then the planting pattern will differ from that when growing these flowers to decorate the site.

The recommendations below for planting and caring for dahlias in the open field are relevant for central Russia and the CIS countries (Primorsky, Altai Territory, the southern part of the Khabarovsk Territory and Western Siberia, the Southern and Middle Urals, the Baltic states, Belarus, northwestern part of Ukraine) . When growing in more southern regions and countries, it will be necessary to make adjustments for the climate, shifting the timing of planting and harvesting, as well as changing agricultural practices.

When choosing a place for growing dahlias, you need to take into account their features, including:

high water demand (the higher the air temperature, the more water is needed);
short growing season;
the need for support and garters due to the fragility of the stems.

It is important to create an optimal microclimate that will allow you to get the maximum decorative effect of dahlias in a relatively short period. The landing site should be protected from cold north, northeast and northwest winds and drafts, warm up well. In combination with low air temperatures (from +1 to -4 degrees), strong winds can cause freezing of dahlias, especially if they were recently planted from greenhouses or greenhouses and did not have time to get the necessary hardening.

In the southern regions, dry winds are dangerous - northeast, east and southeast winds carrying heated dry air. They dry out the soil and the aerial part of the dahlia, causing the young foliage and top of the plant to burn.

To protect the flower beds with dahlias from the winds, the site is planted with trees, ordinary or fruit trees, fences or protective strips are used. Often the site is given a slope - south or southeast for the middle lane and north or northwest for the southern regions.

Important! Lowlands, hollows, valley areas should be avoided, where cold air usually accumulates and late spring frosts often occur.

In the shade of trees or fences, dahlias grow well and remain highly decorative if the sun illuminates them for at least half a day. At the same time, planting these flowers in the zone of action of the root system of large tall trees should be avoided, since they will not be able to bloom normally and form viable root tubers.

When choosing a site for planting dahlias, great attention should be paid to the issue of occurrence ground water. They should not rise above the mark of 60-70 cm from the ground surface. If the water rises higher in the area, you should artificially raise a flower bed with dahlias to protect their root system from decay.

In the hot southern regions, on the contrary, flowerbeds with dahlias are often arranged in a depression surrounded by ramparts of earth. At night, this recess is filled with water to ensure sufficient moisture supply to the roots.

Soil preparation

Dahlias prefer moisture-intensive, structured soil, which at the same time has high water permeability. The wrong choice of soil very often causes the death of dahlias. You can improve the structure of the soil with the help of organic additives:

humus;
fresh or rotted manure;
peat;
straw cutting;
compost;
soddy soil and other materials that are easily degradable in the soil.

In the heavy clay soils, to improve water permeability, make:

coarse-grained river sand;
gravel;
ash (peat or coal);
peat;
coal slag (fine, screened and washed).

If the site is dominated by sandy soil that does not hold water well and is easily eroded, you can add to it:

vermiculite or perlite;
peat;
clay and other materials that help retain moisture.

Tip: it is not necessary to clear the soil of gravel or small stones, such additives in any type of soil will not interfere with the normal development of dahlias.

Dahlias are not too demanding on soil acidity and can tolerate its excess or deficiency, but they show the best result on slightly acidic or neutral soils. But strongly alkaline soils inhibit their development and growth. Before planting dahlias, you can analyze the acidity in order to then bring it to the desired indicators:

at Ph 4-5, slaked lime is added to the soil (30-100 kg per 100 sq. m.);
at a Ph level of 8 and above, the soil is acidified by introducing peat into it.

The place where dahlias will grow is plowed deep in the fall - by 30-35 cm. Then, 2-3 weeks before planting flowers, the soil is dug up or plowed again, paying special attention to harrowing and loosening.

Planting dahlias

When exactly to plant dahlias in spring in open ground depends, first of all, on the region. As a rule, in the middle lane this is done after June 1-10, when the last night frosts leave. At this time, already grown tubers are planted. You can plant them earlier - around May 15-20, as soon as the soil warms up enough. Unsprouted tubers are planted, in which the eyes are clearly expressed. Shoots appear after 2 weeks. With such a planting, it is necessary to constantly monitor the air temperature and, if there is a threat of frost, cover a flower bed with dahlias.

It is interesting. To get even earlier flowering in May, already grown tubers can be planted, but in this case they will need constant shelter from frost and cold air.

Before planting dahlias, you need to prepare seats for them. Holes are dug in the soil next to the stakes driven into the ground. The distance between plants should be equal to half the height of an adult plant - approximately 60-100 cm, between rows - at least 1 meter.

It is very important to immediately establish a support for the flower, since if you do this later, there is a very high probability of damage to the root tubers.

Stakes for supporting dahlias must be strong and high - at least 160-180 cm. It is better to make them from wood conifers they will last longer. To increase the service life, they are treated with a 7% solution of iron sulfate and painted. Even more durable will be metal stakes - from old pipes or fittings with a diameter of 12-20 mm.

The stakes are hammered to a depth of 40 cm, then germinated tubers are planted in the hole, placing them closer to the support. The root neck of the tuber should be 4-5 cm below the soil level. If the seedling was obtained from a cutting or is a hybrid seedling, it is planted deeper, 8-10 cm.

Planting dahlias with tubers in the spring is best done in cloudy weather or in the late afternoon, so that the plants do not suffer from the sun and have time to get comfortable in a new place. Seedlings obtained from cuttings or divided tubers are abundantly shed with water before planting, and then placed in the hole, trying not to break up the lump and not damage the plant itself. For the convenience of watering, ring-shaped holes are made around the planting pit, or the pit is simply not completely filled up. Over time, it will be equal to the level of the soil, and furrows are made for irrigation.

Immediately after planting, dahlias are tied to stakes in 2-3 places, depending on the height of the plant. Labels with the name of the variety are attached to the top of the support. The first few weeks after planting, dahlias need regular abundant watering. The frequency depends on the temperature and humidity of the air - in dry and hot weather, plantings are watered daily.

Dahlia Care

Dahlias are quite demanding on planting conditions and further care. To achieve a high decorativeness of the flower bed, you will have to provide the plants with the most suitable conditions.

Watering, loosening, mulching the soil

After the seedlings get used to the new place, watering is reduced, but the soil under the dahlias should always remain moist. With a lack of water, the stems quickly become woody, growth slows down and flowering worsens. It is quite difficult to restore the decorative effect of dahlias after this - it returns slowly, after the onset of cool rainy weather.

To provide dahlias with optimal air humidity, moisturizing irrigation is carried out using sprinklers (with small holes). 10-15 minutes of such watering allow for some time to increase the humidity of the air in hot weather.

It is very important to keep the soil under the dahlias in a loosened state and regularly clear weeds. Loosen it, as a rule, after each watering or fertilizing. After the buds appear on the dahlias and the green mass of the plants closes, loosening stops, and the soil is mulched with peat or humus. This is done to slow the growth of weeds, prevent crusting of the soil, and reduce watering, as the mulch allows the soil to stay moist longer.

Recommendation: with excessive development of the vegetative mass, the lower leaves of the bushes are cut off to a height of 30-40 cm to improve air ventilation. This avoids the formation of a thick stem at the root collar, which impairs the safety of tubers.

After the onset of stable cold weather, dahlias spud. This will protect the roots from the first frosts, while the hilling height should be 15-20 cm. If the plants were planted deep, then hilling can be omitted.

top dressing

The need to apply mineral or organic fertilizers under dahlias depends on the type of soil in which they are planted. Fertile soils that are regularly fertilized with organic matter, humus, need it less. You can determine which fertilizers dahlias need on a particular soil by submitting samples to an agro-laboratory for chemical analysis. It allows you to plan the application of fertilizers for the next 2-3 years.

Fertilization occurs in three ways:

when plowing the soil before planting;
when landing in each hole;
foliar or root top dressing.

With the wrong selection of fertilizers, they can be ineffective or even harmful to plants. That is why it is recommended to conduct a chemical analysis of the soil regularly, once every 2-3 years.

In the fall, for digging, as a rule, they make organic top dressing - manure, composts, especially if they have not had time to decompose enough. In the spring, wood ash, superphosphate and seasoned peat are plowed into the ground.

It is not recommended to introduce easily soluble chemicals into the soil, as they are easily washed out of the soil and are not used by dahlias for their intended purpose. Among these substances:

ammonium and other nitrates;
potassium salt;
carbamide (synthetic urea);
potassium chloride.

The latter is advised to be applied to heavy clay soils. Fertile lands are not additionally fertilized before planting dahlias, but fertilize only in planting pits. To do this, use humus (leaf or manure) mixed with wood ash or stove soot. 3-4 tablespoons of ash are added to a bucket of compost, a quarter of a bucket of the mixture is added to each well.

During the period of growth and flowering, dahlias are regularly fed with organo-mineral fertilizers - once every 12-14 days. To do this, use diluted cow manure or chicken manure (for 10 l of water, 1 l of manure solution or 0.5 l of chicken manure solution) with the addition of potassium (15 g) or ammonium (10 g) nitrate, superphosphate (15-20 g) and potassium sulfate (10-15 g). A bucket of feed mixture (10 l) is divided between 4-5 plants.

Such top dressing continues until mid-July, then they are replaced by phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. And after the second half of August, preference is given to phosphorus top dressing. After each fertilization, the bushes must be watered from a sprinkler.

Important! The lack of water, phosphorus and potassium can slow down the transfer of nutrients from the stem and leaves to the roots in autumn.

Preparing for the winter

Dahlias do not hibernate outdoors. In autumn, after the ground part dies off (usually after the first frost), the root tubers are dug up and stored.

It is necessary to dig up the tubers on the first day with a positive air temperature, because with a delay, the kidneys can wake up and cause the tuber to rot. Before digging, the stems are cut with a garden pruner at a distance of 3-4 cm from the root collar, and then the nests are removed from the soil with a fork or shovel. The tubers are laid out in boxes and placed for several weeks in a cool, humid room (+8 degrees at a humidity of 80%).

After 2-3 weeks, the nests are cleaned of small roots and old tubers, cuts are processed, and placed in boxes for storage. The bottom of the boxes is covered with earth with a layer of 3 cm, then the tubers are laid out and covered with earth. Store boxes at a temperature of 1-7 degrees and high humidity (80-100%).

There are several ways to store tubers for winter. Each gardener chooses the most convenient for himself. The main thing is to ensure the safety of planting material

You can also store tubers by treating them with clay mash. Peeled root tubers are washed under running water, dried in the sun, dipped in a mash and dried again. The resulting "dragees" are sent for storage until spring.

Bush formation

In the case when dahlias were propagated by tubers, it is recommended to leave the two strongest shoots for each seedling, removing all the rest as soon as possible. Cutting seedlings are grown, as a rule, in one stem, sometimes pinching the top over the third internode to add splendor to the bush.

As a rule, dahlias are grown in 1 or 2, less often 3, stems, so as not to thicken the bush too much.

For large-flowered varieties, a mandatory measure is the regular and complete removal of all stepchildren formed on the stem - lateral shoots in the axils of the leaves. This is done as early as possible and as close to the stem as possible. If the stepchildren are not removed, especially on the lower part of the stem, then the growth of dahlias slows down, flowering is reduced, and the size of the flowers decreases. In addition, stepchildren located close to the ground often break off, and fungal infections can easily occur at the fracture site, which will cause the death of the entire plant.

Removal of stepsons is carried out regularly, from the moment of planting until the buds are formed. Side shoots are removed to the internode preceding the one where the bud was formed.

Important! Dwarf, pompom, collared and small-flowered dahlia species do not stepchild.

Quite a few species and varieties of dahlias need to remove not only stepchildren, but also buds. This is especially true for those plants that are grown for further cutting or participation in exhibitions.

As a rule, on the stems of dahlias, buds are formed in groups of three. The middle bud usually develops faster than the others, but it has a short peduncle, which is not very convenient for cutting. Therefore, the central bud is removed, after which the remaining two develop faster, have a longer peduncle and are distinguished by lush flowering.

During the flowering period, in order to preserve the decorativeness of the plant, faded inflorescences should be removed daily, which spoil the appearance of the bush.

Formation of undersized bushes

Almost all varieties of dahlias are characterized by high growth - from 160 cm and above. If you need to get a stunted plant, you need to follow this algorithm:

At the end of February, parts of the tubers are planted in nutrient soil and placed in a well-lit place at a temperature not lower than + 15-20 degrees.
After the appearance of shoots, 1-2 are left, the strongest. The rest can be used as cuttings.
Over the fourth pair of leaves at the bush, pinch the top.
As a result, two stems develop from one, each of them is pinched again after the second pair of leaves.

With such a pinching system, the bush does not grow more than 1 meter in height. The pinching of such dahlias is carried out according to the general scheme.

Reproduction and preparation of tubers for planting

Dahlias are propagated by seeds, cuttings or parts of tubers. Since it is quite simple to grow dahlias from tubers, while getting 3-5 new ones from one tuber, this method is the most common. Root tubers dug out in autumn in early April begin to prepare for planting. To do this, they are kept for 10 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate and left in a warm, well-lit room for about a week.

As soon as sprouts 7-9 mm long appear on the tubers, division can begin. One medium tuber, as a rule, can be divided into 3-5 parts. It is important to ensure that at least 2 buds remain on each division. For division, use a sharp knife, acting very carefully so as not to damage the root neck.

The prepared parts of the tubers are planted for germination in boxes with a mixture of sawdust, peat, river sand and humus. In these boxes they sit until the onset of stable heat without returning frosts, when they are transplanted into open ground.

Reproduction by cuttings

It is recommended to replace old tubers with new ones obtained from germinated cuttings every two years. Cuttings of dahlias allows you to update the planting material, while maintaining the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

For renewal, the most healthy and best-suited tuber is selected, planted in nutrient soil at a third of its height. After a while, sprouts begin to appear. When they reach a height of 2 cm, they are cut and rooted.

After the appearance of sprouts, watering is reduced, and the temperature is lowered to + 15-17 degrees so that the cuttings do not stretch

Root cuttings can be in water or in the substrate. To accelerate root formation, they are recommended to be treated with stimulants. Pots or containers with cuttings are covered with a film and placed in a warm, bright place.

Important! The uterine tuber will release new sprouts after a while. In total, up to 30 cuttings can be taken from it.

Reproduction by seeds

As a rule, dahlias from seeds are grown as an annual crop. They can be planted in seedlings or immediately sown in open ground.

To obtain seedlings, seeds are sown in early April in loose soil, containers are covered with film or glass. Seedlings appear already on the 4-7th day. Two weeks after germination, they dive into separate pots. Strengthened and pre-hardened seedlings are planted in open ground after the end of night frosts, keeping a distance of 20-25 cm between plants.

When planting in the ground, the seedlings will need to be thinned out to provide the plants with room to grow. Sow dahlias in May, after the threat of night frost has passed. Crops will bloom only towards the end of August.

The brightest representatives of annuals are pompon dahlias, varieties "Gelleri", "Sylvia", "Merry Fellows", growing them from seeds is carried out using the same technology.

Despite the fact that dahlias require quite a lot of attention and participation from the gardener, their bright and lush flowering will decorate any flower bed. With some effort, you can admire the luxurious inflorescences until the first frost.

Moscow, Russia, online since 01/11/2017

Site selection for dahlias
Dahlia fertilizer
Planting dahlias in open ground and caring for plants
Formation of a dahlia bush

Site selection for dahlias

The choice of location for dahlias depends on the purpose of their planting. One approach is needed for choosing a place for a dahlia garden in a large park, and a completely different one for planting dahlias in a flower farm for reproduction and subsequent sale of root tubers.

We will consider the choice of a place for planting dahlias in order to obtain the greatest decorative effect on the backyards of flower lovers.

Our recommendations apply primarily to the middle lane former USSR, as well as to areas close in climatic conditions to the middle zone (for example, the Middle and Southern Urals, the southern regions of Western Siberia, Altai, Khabarovsk (southern part) and Primorsky Territories, Belarus, the Baltic republics, the northwestern part of Ukraine, etc. For the southern regions and territories of Russia, Ukraine, Transcaucasia and especially the Central Asian republics, it is necessary to make appropriate adjustments both in terms of planting and harvesting, and in agricultural technology.When choosing a place for planting dahlias, it is necessary to take into account some of them biological features: a relatively short growing season, a large need for these plants in moisture, which greatly increases with increasing ambient temperature, and the great fragility of their grassy stems, requiring garters to stakes (or other supports).

It is necessary to choose a site for planting dahlias in such a way that the most suitable microclimate for them is provided. For rapid plant growth, it is necessary to warm the soil and the planted plants well in order to make the most of the relatively short growing season. Therefore, the site for planting dahlias must be protected from the wind, and above all from the winds prevailing in the area and especially "harmful" for dahlias. In the middle lane and in the eastern regions of the former USSR, such winds are, first of all, northern, northwestern and northeastern, and for the southern and southeastern regions of the country - northeastern, eastern and southeastern (i.e. dry winds). Strong northern, northwestern or northeastern winds, especially at relatively low temperatures (+1 - -4 °), often lead to freezing of plants, especially freshly planted in the ground from greenhouses and greenhouses and have not had time to harden. In the southern and southeastern regions, strong winds carrying dry and heated air dry out plants and soil and can lead to drying (burning) of young leaves and the upper part of dahlia stems.

The site for planting dahlias must be protected from all sides or from the prevailing winds with trees, buildings, fences, protective strips or fruit trees. It, if possible, should be flat or have a southern or southeastern slope (for the southern and southeastern regions, on the contrary, the northern and northwestern slopes less warmed by the sun are preferable). Undesirable areas in the depressions of the terrain, in valleys and hollows, where there is an accumulation of cold air and late frosts are frequent.

Dahlias planted in large parks among groups of trees and shrubs, as well as along buildings and fences and among fruit trees in the garden, if they are at least half a day in the sun, grow beautifully and look very decorative. At the same time, planting dahlias near (in the zone of action of the root system) and under the canopy large trees is unacceptable, since in this case the dahlias bloom poorly and do not form viable root tubers. In the area intended for planting dahlias, there should not be a high standing of groundwater (groundwater should not rise above 60-70 cm from the soil surface). With a higher standing of groundwater, rabatki, flower beds or ridges with dahlias must be raised by deepening paths, furrows and the neighboring area. In other cases, it is not advisable to make flowerbeds, flower beds or ridges that rise above the surrounding area.

In southern regions with an arid climate, deepened sites for planting dahlias are often arranged, which are surrounded by earthen rollers on all sides so that it is possible to fill the area with water from a canal, water supply or well at night.

The soil in the area intended for planting dahlias must be structural, moisture-intensive and at the same time permeable. A significant part of the failures encountered with the cultivation of dahlias are the result of poor soil preparation.

The structure of the soil is improved by adding to it organic matter. Such additives can be manure (fresh or rotted), humus (leaf or manure), composts of various contents, peat, sod land, straw cutting and other organic materials that easily decompose in the soil. To increase the water permeability of heavy, floating clay soils, sand (especially coarse-grained), gravel, peat, peat and coal ash, and even fine (pre-screened and washed) coal slag, as well as other neutral materials that improve water permeability, can be added.

In deep sandy soils, which even with frequent and intensive watering do not retain moisture in the upper layers of the soil, it is recommended to add peat, clay, vermiculite and other moisture-intensive materials. In passing, it should be noted that the presence of gravel and small stones in the soil usually does not interfere with the normal development of dahlias.

If the soil on which dahlias are to be planted is not structural and sufficient amounts of organic substances that improve the structure are not available at this time, a temporary local improvement of the structure in the pits is carried out.

Usually, gardeners and amateur flower growers face difficulties in preparing the soil for planting dahlias when developing newly allocated plots in collective gardens. Such plots are allocated, as a rule, on field, meadow or forest lands. In such areas, most often the arable layer is thin, or the land is virgin (or fallow) with a thin layer of humus and podzolic or clay subsoil at a depth of 10-15 cm. Such soils very often have strong or very strong acidity (pH 5-4 ). Dahlias, although they put up with an excess and lack of acidity in the soil, grow and bloom best on slightly acidic and neutral soils. Inhibits the development of dahlias and strongly alkaline soil. The best thing for beginner flower growers is to analyze the soil for acidity. At pH 4-5, it is necessary to add slaked lime in an amount of 30 to 100 kg per 100 m2 of area. Soils are strongly alkaline with a pH greater than 8.5 and need to be acidified. It is best to make peat for this purpose.

For forest and meadow podzolic soils, good results are obtained when a leaf is introduced into the soil during autumn digging and lime - during spring digging. It should be noted right away that the simultaneous introduction of fresh manure or unrotted leaves and lime is undesirable, since freshly slaked lime retards the activity of soil bacteria and prevents the rapid decomposition of manure or leaves. The area intended for planting dahlias is plowed or dug deep (by 30-35 cm) in the fall. In the spring, 2-3 weeks before the dahlia planting date, the site is plowed up or dug up again with careful loosening and harrowing.

The need for dahlias in organic and mineral fertilizers largely depends on the soil on which they are supposed to be planted. To determine the need for dahlias in mineral fertilizers, it is necessary to conduct a chemical analysis of the soil at least once every two to three years. Soil analysis is carried out in soil-agrotechnical laboratories at the district departments of agriculture or branches of the Society for the Protection of Nature, as well as in state farms and collective farms where there are agrolaboratories. According to the analysis, the need of the soil on the site for mineral and organic fertilizers for the coming years is determined. Soils that have received organic fertilizers rich in humus for many years in a row need these fertilizers to a lesser extent than soils that have recently been developed and have not previously received organic fertilizers.

Under dahlias, fertilizers are applied in three main ways:

when plowing (digging) the site
planting plants in holes
root and foliar dressings.

Fertilizers can act on plants in different ways: effectively, ineffectively, and even be harmful. It all depends on the lack or excess of a particular substance in the soil (which is determined using chemical analysis), its acidity, the presence in the soil or the introduction of the necessary trace elements into it, the development of beneficial soil bacteria and the timing of fertilizer application. During autumn plowing (digging), first of all, organic, especially insufficiently decomposed, fertilizers are applied, for example, manure, peat feces, various composts; during spring plowing - wood ash, peat (seasoned), superphosphate. Sometimes, especially when there is a shortage of organic fertilizers, a flower mixture or other fertilizer mixtures are added. Manure and composts are applied in an amount of about 3 to 6 kg per 1 m2, peat feces and bird droppings - from 1 to 2 kg. Fertilize the soil with ammonium and other nitrates, urea (synthetic urea), potassium salt, potassium chloride and similar easily soluble chemicals when digging (plowing) it is impractical, since they are easily washed out of the arable layer and are not used by dahlias. However, it is recommended to add potassium to clay soils.

In the event that the soil prepared for planting dahlias is fertile enough, it is advisable to apply fertilizer not to the entire area, but only to the pits during planting. The most suitable fertilizer for this purpose is manure or leaf humus and compost mixed with wood ash or stove soot. Add 3-4 tablespoons of ash to a bucket of humus or compost, mix well and pour about 1/4 bucket of the mixture into each hole, mix it with the soil and plant dahlias. Some breeders put fresh horse manure as a fertilizer in the holes when planting dahlias. This is done as follows: on a pre-dug area in the places planned for planting, stakes are installed, a hole 40X40X40 cm in size is dug at each stake, 1/3 of a bucket of horse manure is placed on the bottom of the hole, it is sprinkled with earth and well compacted with a foot. Light humus soil is poured over this earth (from leaf and manure humus with the addition of up to 20 g of superphosphate and a tablespoon of ash to each hole). This mixture is well mixed, a hole 15 cm deep is made in it and filled with water. When the water in the hole is completely absorbed, pre-grown dahlias are planted.

The timing of planting dahlias in open ground depends on the climatic conditions of the area. In the middle lane, dahlias are planted in open ground after June 1-10 with grown plants. Dahlias can be planted earlier, as soon as the soil warms up sufficiently, from about May 15-20, with ungrown divided tubers with pronounced eyes. Two weeks later, shoots appear from the ground. It is necessary to monitor the air temperature and, if there is a threat of frost, cover the plants.

To get early flowering dahlias, some flower growers plant grown dahlias in the ground ahead of schedule. In this case, prepare shelters from frost

Planting of plants (both cuttings and those grown from divided tubers) is carried out in pre-prepared areas with stakes placed and holes dug near them. The approximate distance between plants is set at half the height of an adult plant (from 60 to 100 cm in a row), the distance between rows is at least 100 cm. Stakes must be strong, 160-180 cm high. Coniferous stakes are more durable. For their long-term preservation, it is necessary to impregnate the lower part of the stakes with special compounds, for example, with 7% iron sulfate, and paint the stakes themselves with green paint. Metal stakes are more durable and convenient. To do this, use old unusable pipes or pieces of reinforcing steel with a diameter of 12-20 mm. The stakes are hammered to a depth of 40 cm. After that, a plant is planted closer to the stake (with water added to the hole) so that the neck of the tuber is 4-5 cm below the ground level.

Cutting plants and hybrid seedlings are usually planted deeper, up to 8-10 cm. Cutting plants are best planted two plants under each stake. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the growth of plants. When planting dahlias on discounts in two or three rows, they try to select plants according to their height. In the first row, low ones are planted, in the second - of medium height, in the third - high and very high varieties, while the shape, color and size of dahlia inflorescences are also taken into account.

It is recommended to plant plants in cloudy weather or in the evening. Cutting plants or plants grown from divided tubers are heavily shed with water before planting, and then with a clod of earth, carefully, trying not to damage the plants and not break up the clod, they are planted in a prepared hole. Ring-shaped holes are made around the planted plants, or the holes are left incompletely covered to ensure the convenience of watering. In the future, when cultivating the soil, the hole is gradually leveled, and furrows are made for irrigation. Planted plants are immediately tied to stakes (depending on the height of the plant in 2-3 places or more). As the plants grow, the garter is continued. Immediately upon planting, a label with the name (or number) of the plant is attached to the top of the stake.

In the following days after planting, plants should be watered regularly and abundantly. The frequency of watering is regulated depending on the temperature and humidity. In dry and hot weather, watering in the first week after planting is done daily, then less often, but in such a way that the soil under the dahlias always remains moist. Lack of moisture, especially in dry hot weather, leads to slower growth, woody stems, poor flowering and loss of decorative dahlia, which usually recovers slowly only with the onset of cooler and rainier weather.

The land under the dahlias must be maintained at all times in a loose state, clean of weeds. Usually loosening is done after each watering or top dressing (liquid or dry). After the formation of buds and the closing of the green mass of plants, loosening stops. It is recommended, after the termination of loosening, to mulch the soil with humus or peat. Mulching prevents the surface of the soil from crusting, delays the development of weeds, and reduces the amount of watering.

In early September, before the onset of autumn frosts, it is recommended to check the presence of labels and the correctness of the name of the dahlia varieties, to log brief description varieties (if not already done). With the onset of cold weather, you need to spud dahlias. With a deep landing, hilling can be omitted. Hilling protects dahlias from the first autumn frosts. Hilling height should be 15-20 centimeters.

In dahlias grown from a tuber, it is recommended to leave no more than two shoots, the strongest, all the rest are removed as soon as possible. In cutting plants, as a rule, one stem is left, but sometimes, to give the splendor of the bush, they pinch the top of the plant above the third node, while the plant develops into two stems.

Pom-pom, collared, dwarf and all small-flowered georgia varieties do not stepchild.

In many varieties of dahlias, due to the peculiarity of their budding, it is necessary to remove not only side shoots, but also extra buds, especially when dahlias are grown for cutting or for display at exhibitions. Usually, dahlias on a flowering shoot form buds in groups of three, of which the middle bud develops faster, but it often has a shorter peduncle, sometimes not very suitable for cutting. In such cases, the middle bud must be removed, then longer peduncles with lush inflorescences grow at the side buds. In dahlias of powerful development, regardless of their height, in addition to stepchildren, part of the lower leaves are removed if they cover the root collar. This contributes to better maturation of tubers and prevents a strong thickening of the trunk.

The formation of the bush begins after the appearance of stepchildren or pinching the top after the fourth pair of leaves.

To obtain undersized dahlia bushes, tubers, divided into parts, are planted in pots with nutrient soil at the end of February and placed in a bright place with a temperature of 15-20 °. When shoots appear, the strongest ones (one or two) are left, the rest are broken into cuttings. When the fourth pair of leaves appears, the top is pinched, two stems grow, and above the second pair of leaves, the top of these stems is pinched again, four or eight develop from one or two initial stems. With this formation, the height of the bush usually does not exceed 1 m, although its varietal feature is a height of more than 160 cm. In the same way, plants are formed for exhibitions. Pasynkovanie is carried out in the usual way, as in other plants.

In the process of flowering dahlias, faded inflorescences that have lost their decorative effect appear on the bush. They spoil the beauty of the bush. Such inflorescences must be removed daily.

Materials used: Dahlias. Edited by Professor N.A. Bazilevskaya. Moscow University Press. 1984

The birthplace of these beautiful flowers is considered to be Guatemala and Mexico. In the Old World, dahlias appeared in the 18th century, where they began to successfully plant and care for them in the open field. The flowers were immediately given two names - dahlia and dahlia. The plant received its first name in honor of the famous botanist from Sweden - A. Dahl, and the second - a scientist from St. Petersburg - I. G. Georgi.

flower varieties

Dahlia is a gorgeous flower. In addition to the variety of shapes, it is distinguished by a variety of colors. To date, scientists have about 30 species and approximately 15,000 varieties of dahlia.

Botanists divide the flower into the following groups:

Simple.
Anemone.
Collared.
Peony.
Decorative.
Spherical.
Pompoms.
Cactus (needle).
Semi-cactus.
Nymphaeous.
Mixed - other varieties that are not included in the previous groups.

Colorful, magnificent dahlias of different colors (white, burgundy, scarlet, pink, cream and many others) are the decoration of our summer gardens.

The dream of breeders is the blue dahlia. However, the efforts of botanists have not yet been crowned with success.

However, these delicate flowers cannot stand the harsh Russian winters, so those who want to enjoy the beauty of their bright buds all summer should plant tubers annually. So, in the Moscow region, it is possible to plant dahlias in open ground in mid-May. But in its homeland - in Latin America - this amazingly beautiful flower is a perennial.

Planting dahlias in open ground

most convenient and the most efficient method growing dahlias - planting and care in the open field.

Land preparation

The soil for flowers is prepared in advance. Prepare the soil for planting dalia should be before the onset of winter frosts. In autumn, the earth is dug up and fertilizer is applied to it - either compost or humus, which are added to the soil at the rate of 4 kg per 1 m2.

In spring, the soil is enriched again, with a mixture of compost and ash, which are scattered over the entire area of the flower bed. Then the earth must be loosened with a rake. Fertilizer can also be added to prepared planting holes.

Dahlias are planted in the spring in soil with a loose structure. Gravel, river sand, crushed coal slag will help to increase its water permeability and fertility. Such drainage will protect the culture from excess moisture, which causes destructive mold and decay.

Dahlia quickly deplete the soil, so they should not be planted in the same place for two years in a row.

It is desirable that the reaction of the soil be slightly acidic or neutral. Hydrated lime is added to acidified soil, and a little peat is added to alkaline soil.

Tuber preparation

Dahlia tubers intended for planting in open ground need special care. With the onset of April, transfer the root tubers from the cellar to the greenhouse, remove rotten areas. Lay in boxes, cover half with fresh soddy soil, peat, sand, sawdust. The root neck is left open. Water the substrate periodically. Eyes will appear in about ten days. Remove the root tubers from the soil, shake off, put on a hard surface.

A thin knife blade must be sterilized with a solution of manganese or calcined in a fire. With a vertical cut, divide the stem into four parts (quarters). Each division must have several root tubers and at least one renewal bud, otherwise it will not be able to germinate. The cut is sprinkled with crushed activated carbon. Keep the tubers in the greenhouse until they take root.

Approximately 30 days before planting, the planting material is taken out of storage. The tubers are cleaned of damaged tissue, sprinkling the cut with activated charcoal. You can treat the culture with foundationazole, or hold it for 17 - 18 minutes in a weak solution of manganese. Next, the processed tubers are placed in low containers with a mixture of earth and river sand.

Initially, the containers are kept in a warm, shady place, with moderate watering. When the sprouts reach a height of more than 2 cm, they are transferred to a lighted place. It is rarely necessary to water the sprouts, it is advisable only to moisten the ground. They are planted in the first decade of May. You don't need to cover.

When is the best time to plant dahlias outdoors in spring? The planting time is related to the climate of the region. For central Russia, this is the third decade of May. For the southern regions - April. For the north - the beginning of summer.

Planting dahlias in open ground in Siberia and caring for them should be carried out in the second decade of June.

Site preparation

This culture loves warmth, so it is important to choose the right place. A flower bed should be located in a sunny area that is not blown by drafts.

Some varieties have a fairly high stem, which is easily broken off by a strong gust of wind. Such varieties need support - stakes made of wood, 1.5–2 meters high. It is advisable to install them in advance.

Ideal location: near the wall, on the south side of the building. It is recommended to plant flowers next to a group of shrubs and trees, in a sufficiently lit place. However, trees near flowers should not give a dense shadow, as dahlias are very fond of light. These freedom-loving flowers are not suitable for tight spaces and impenetrable thickets.

First, the site is leveled, then the holes are prepared. The tubers are planted in open ground, then they are covered with a layer of earth a few centimeters. The tubers should be provided with enough sun and light watering.

There is another method of propagation of this culture - cuttings. But this is a very laborious and responsible task. And if you are concerned about these chores, then you can grow an annual plant from seeds, this is:

ColtnessHybrids;
Redskin;
Rigoletto;
Figaro.

Seeds are sown in open ground in mid-May, and bloom by mid-August. To get early flowering, the seeds will have to germinate.

Collection and storage of root tubers

Dahlias planted in open ground in autumn also need care. Before frost, the bush should be spudded and the leaves on the bottom of the stem removed. It is recommended not to rush to dig up the tubers! When the ground part dies, it is cut off, and the tubers are left in the ground. Over the course of two weeks, their peel will thicken and starch will form. And only after the first frost (before the onset of big frosts), the root tubers should be dug up and washed. This is done in the morning so that they dry out in the air during the day.

Planting material is stored in the cellar, in a box with a mixture that includes earth, vermiculite, sand, sawdust, peat. The optimum room humidity is 60–70%.

Ventilate the storage room periodically.

In January, it is necessary to re-examine the tubers in order to separate large ones. If affected areas are found, it is necessary to remove them, and treat the cut points with a brilliant green solution (can be lubricated with crushed activated charcoal).

Dangerous pests

The main enemies of the plant are:

slug;
flower beetle;
caterpillar;
earwig;
etc.

To combat slugs, the ground is sprinkled with metaldehyde. From aphids - dip the shoots in a soapy solution or spray them with a 0.2% solution of chloroethanol. Hot weather favors the development of spider mites, which infect the lower part of the leaves. They turn yellow, dry and die. The diseased culture is irrigated with keltan (0.2%). Against pests, a decoction of celandine and wormwood is also used.

So, magnificent dahlias are distinguished by a variety of shapes and colors, lush long flowering. If you follow the above recommendations, you can easily grow these gorgeous flowers in your backyard.

Plant dahlias outdoors. Dahlias - planting and growing

Landing dates

Growing conditions

Location and lighting

Soil Requirements

How to plant dahlias in spring

Planting dahlias

Post disembarkation care

Growing dahlias from seeds

Sowing directly into the ground

Growing dahlias for seedlings at home

When to plant dahlias outdoors

Planting seedlings of dahlias in spring in the ground

Planting dahlia tubers in spring

How to divide the tubers before planting, look at the video:

For details on planting dahlias with tubers in the spring, see the video:

Reproduction of dahlias by dividing tubers

Propagation of dahlias by cuttings

Growing conditions

Diseases and pests

Types of dahlias with photos and descriptions

There is a division of dahlias according to the shape of the inflorescence

Application

Preparing a place for dahlias

Flowers from seedlings

And from cuttings

How to grow dahlias from seeds the seedless way

Tuber germination

Tuber division

Landing site preparation

Planting dahlias in open ground

Receiving seed

flower care

Problems when growing dahlias

Tuber wintering

Conclusion

Watering, loosening, mulching the soil

top dressing

Preparing for the winter

Formation of undersized bushes

Reproduction by cuttings

Reproduction by seeds

flower varieties

Planting dahlias in open ground

Land preparation

Tuber preparation

Site preparation

Collection and storage of root tubers

Dangerous pests

All about planting dahlias in open ground - video