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Remove groundwater from the site. How to get rid of reeds ⛲ and drain the area from water with your own hands, melioration

Remove groundwater from the site. How to get rid of reeds ⛲ and drain the area from water with your own hands, melioration

Drainage of the site is advisable to carry out in cases where there is a high level of groundwater, water does not drain for a long time after rains or snow melts, and also when clay or loamy soil is on the site.

First select the type of drainage

There are several main types of drainage:

It remains only to choose the right system.

Which pipes to use for the dehumidification system

In order to make drainage on the site with your own hands, you should use perforated plastic pipes.

Their diameter should be 63 or 110 mm.

Note!

Products have a corrugated outer surface, inside they are perfectly smooth, due to which they have a high throughput.

Perforated plastic pipes for drainage

So, it is better to choose products with a geotextile filter for sandy soil and with a coconut fiber filter for clay soil.

For crushed stone soil, ordinary drainage pipes are sufficient.

Such a drainage device on the site with your own hands will be as effective as possible, because silting is excluded.

Drainage pipe with geotextile filter

If products with a filter are not available, ordinary perforated pipes can be used.

They need to be laid on a layer of geotextile and a cushion of crushed stone, covered with the same geofabric on top. In this way, silting of the system can be prevented.

Drainage laying not geotextile

The length of the drainage pipe is determined in each case separately, it will depend on the volume of drains.

The performance is taken as a basis: 30 liters per day for each meter of the product.

If you have an ordinary sewer pipe, you can learn how to make a drainage pipe yourself.

To do this, you will need to make holes in the product with a diameter of 0.5 cm at a distance of 10 cm from each other with a drill, evenly distributing them over the pipe area.

Do-it-yourself drainage device on the site

If you decide to do your own drainage on the site, you will need to do the following:

After that, it remains to figure out how to properly make drainage on the site with your own hands. To do this, you need to study the relevant step by step instructions.

How is surface drainage done?

Let's start with the easiest work - arranging an open drainage system. Do-it-yourself surface drainage of the site is very simple.

You will need to do the following:

dig main and auxiliary trenches. The main ones are usually located along the perimeter of the site, they have a slope towards the collector. Auxiliary trenches go from the place of accumulation of water to the main ones, respectively, a slope is made in this direction. It should be approximately 2 cm per meter of trench. The walls of the trench are made at an angle of 30 degrees;
seal the trench walls. If necessary, they can be reinforced with metal mesh. When drainage is arranged using special trays, a sand cushion 10 cm high is made, trays are installed on it, and sand traps are mounted in them;
close the ditches with special nets to increase their aesthetics, to prevent large debris and branches from getting inside;
if backfill drainage is done, then large crushed stone is poured into 2/3 of the depth of the trench, crushed stone of a smaller fraction is poured on top. Next, the turf is laid. To prevent silting, crushed stone can be wrapped with geofabric.

Such drainage of the site with your own hands is done very easily and quickly, it allows you to remove excess water from the surface of the earth.

Deep drainage - how to do it yourself

There is more difficult and time-consuming work to be done here, but if you follow the step-by-step instructions, you can cope with the task very quickly.

Consider how to make drainage of this type on the site:

Deep site drainage

dig trenches with a slope towards the water intake well 2 cm per meter. The depth will be approximately 1-1.5 meters for sandy soil, 80 cm for loam and 70-75 cm for clay soil;
lay a sand cushion 10 cm high on the bottom of the trenches;
put a layer of geotextile, bring the edges of the material out;
pour a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm about 40 cm high;
lay a drainage pipe on the rubble;
connect all pipes with each other using special adapters, connect the last element of the drain to the well;
top with a layer of crushed stone of 10-15 cm;
cover with geotextile;
pour a layer of soil on top.

Completion of laying deep drainage

When thinking about how to properly drain, it is important to take into account the fact that the drainage pipes should be located at least 50 cm below the level of laying the foundation, this will protect it from being washed out by groundwater.

They will only fall into the drains, moving along them to the place where the water is drained.

Also, pipes need to be deepened below the freezing level of the ground.

Drainage on a sloping site

If you are thinking about the question - how to do drainage on a site with a slope, then the sequence of work will be approximately the same as in previous cases.

But, there are some differences in the step-by-step instructions.

You will need to do the following:

Drainage of a site with a slope

explore the site and determine its lowest point, a catchment well will be located in this place;
determine the location of the main trench, better - along the fence;
dig a ditch of the required size;
arrange auxiliary trenches in the form of a Christmas tree - they must converge to the main ditch with the desired slope. If the slope is not enough, it must be obtained by gradually deepening the trench to the point of its connection with the main ditch.

Drainage scheme with a slope

It will be easier to do the work if a drainage scheme for the land plot was previously drawn up, including data on the terrain.

Video

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging of the soil is familiar to the owners of sites located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnant water after snow melt does not allow for proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

When is a drainage system needed?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and diverting ground, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents washing out, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

The arrangement of the drainage system is not necessary in every area. In order to determine how badly your site needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and heavy rain. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

Drainage system helps to remove stagnant water from the site

If there is little visual confirmation, then a simple experiment can be carried out - using a hand drill or a conventional shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the pit and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

high occurrence of groundwater;
the site is located in an area with clay soil;
the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

There are a wide variety of land drainage systems. At the same time, in various sources, their classification can be very different from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of heavy rainfall and uneven snowmelt.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

The surface drainage system is constructed over the area of the site, around the house and buildings adjacent to it, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

Point - in some sources it is designated as local drainage. It is used to collect and divert water from a certain place on the site. The main area of application is drainage of areas under drains, near entrance doors and gates, in the area of containers and irrigation taps. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grates and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the most efficient operation of the system. If necessary, point and line drainage can be combined with the system described below.

deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where it is necessary to constantly drain the soil or lower the groundwater level. Drains are laid with observance of a slope in the direction of the flow of water, which enters the collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80-150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to divert water from the foundation of the building, the pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of the site with a certain step. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their laying and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when constructing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains decreases to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths of laying can be seen in the table below. The information is taken from the book "Draining land for gardens" by A.M.Dumbljauskas.

Drainage depth, m	Distance between drains, m
Drainage depth, m	sandy soil	loamy soil	Clay soil
0,45	4,5–5,5	4–5	2–3
0,6	6,5–7,5	5–6,5	3–4
0,9	9–11	7–9	4–5,5
1,2	12–15	10–12	4,5–7
1,5	15,5–18	12–15	6,5–9
1,8	18–22	15–18	7–11

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the site is relatively flat, then to give a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is observed.

When arranging drainage of a long length, a minimum slope must be observed along the entire length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system with a length of 15 m, the minimum level difference between the start and end points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the declared slope standards. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring out 1–2 cm.

Drainage at their summer cottage - the easiest way with instructions

In order to independently carry out the drainage of a land plot through a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare a tool and a place to perform work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining suburban areas of a small area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can use the diagram below as a basis. It depicts a drainage route in the shape of a Christmas tree. The distance between the drains, as discussed above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system at their summer cottage

To carry out the work, you will need a shovel and a bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. As materials, it will be necessary to prepare gravel of a fraction of 20–40, geotextiles, an edged bar or a board 2–3 m long.

For the construction of surface drainage in a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, the water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more laborious and requires the ability to work with concrete mix.

Drainage of the site using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining summer cottages and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective pavement around the building, concrete or slab paths. If necessary, their partial dismantling can be performed, but in general the structure will not suffer.

An example of a project for a drainage system in a suburban area

Deep drainage works include the following:

According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the point of water discharge, that is, the place from where the collected water will drain into sewer pipes leading to a drainage well. The depth of the pipeline should be below the freezing level of the soil. For the Northwestern region, this value is about 60–80 cm.
Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage
Taking into account the plan, a trench is excavated along the perimeter and area of a site up to 1 m deep. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the point of water discharge. After that, the trenches are dug with a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the runoff, the trenches are shed with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.
A pit for a drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site
At the lowest point of the site, a place is arranged for the installation of a water intake or filtering drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clay soil types, it is better to install storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, both storage and filter wells can be used. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.
A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.
Fine-grained gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. Geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
In places where the drain turns, modular manholes are installed. The diameter and height of the well depend on the estimated volume waste water. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.
An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns
Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for operability. To do this, a large amount of water is drained through the drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can proceed to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
A 20–30 cm layer of gravel with a fraction of 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After that, drains with laid rubble are covered with geotextiles. A 10-15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured over the geotextile and carefully compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain a site without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnant water in the area are not always associated with a high level of groundwater. Sometimes this is due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy rainfall. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one way to drain a site without drainage.

If, due to some circumstances, the installation of a drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining the site, the most effective are the addition of a sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m 3 of soil is enough.

The easiest way to drain the soil on the site

The arrangement of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the most in a simple way drainage of the suburban area. Despite the general simplicity, this method is very effective and is able to cope with large quantity water formed during the melting of snow.

Work on the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be sprinkled with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under the turf layer. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery over the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main cause of stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnant water is not associated with blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not provide a constant and uniform discharge of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use a steel cable to clean the drains. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, at the other there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of blockage.

For cleaning pipes Ø110 mm and more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drain pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Further, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards the water drain. Usually, small accumulations of silt and foliage are pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to eliminate the blockage, then it will be necessary to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clean the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnant water on the site are a big problem that affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that an excess of water can be dealt with with the help of a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to some circumstances.

Owners of plots located in the lowlands often face problems with waterlogging of the soil, leading to the destruction of the foundation of buildings. The fertile layer becomes unsuitable for the growth of fruit and ornamental trees. Humus is washed out, the root system rots, which leads to disease and death of plantings. Water drainage in a summer cottage successfully copes with such agrotechnical tasks. The right device drainage system will provide drainage and reduce the level of groundwater. We will tell you about how to make drainage on the site with your own hands and why we need it in the material. To do this, you must follow a certain pattern.

Purpose of drainage

The installation of an reclamation system is a complex and time-consuming process that requires large-scale earthworks. Many companies in Moscow offer dewatering of sites, with the involvement of special equipment and equipment. Everything will be done quickly, efficiently, but the cost of services does not always fit into the planned budget.

If you do the drainage of the site with your own hands, then you can save the budget. A properly installed system will effectively remove excess moisture from the surface and deep layers of the soil. In areas with clay soils, the presence of water at the base of the foundation, combined with winter freezing, can lead to the formation of cracks and faults. Proper drainage effectively removes water from the basement and basement, which can seep even through waterproofing and building structures. High humidity in a house without foundation drainage leads to the growth of fungus and mold, a persistent smell of dampness, and the destruction of building materials.

The drainage system prevents the septic tank from being squeezed out of wet soil. After the removal of water from the waterlogged area, moisture does not stagnate on it, the fertile layer is not washed out, and the yield of vegetables and fruits increases. Proper drainage is also necessary in the presence of a lawn with an automatic watering system, paths with artificial turf in the form of paving slabs, paving stones, concrete.

How to make drainage in a summer cottage

It is recommended to start an independent drainage device in a summer cottage before planting ornamental and fruit trees, shrubs, beds, greenhouses, and building a foundation. Preparatory work includes the development of an action plan. On the diagram of a plot with a relief, a system of drainage ditches is noted, a height difference is determined, a place for a well at the lowest point, and the depth of the trenches. An effective drainage system is possible with a minimum slope of about 1 cm per 1 running meter. pipes. Measurements should be taken using the building level. The standard set of tools and materials includes:

perforated pipes of suitable diameter;
drainage wells;
connecting elements: fittings, couplings;
crushed stone, expanded clay, sand;
geofabric.

After placing all the elements in place, they begin to dig trenches, maintaining the necessary slope throughout. Their depth should be at least 0.7 m, width - 0.5 m. The bottom is compacted, sand is poured on top and rammed again. In the finished trench, geotextiles are placed with a margin necessary for wrapping pipes, and the level of the slope is additionally checked. Crushed stone is poured on top of the finally assembled system, completely covering the pipes with it.

Water intake wells, designed for cleaning and monitoring the good condition of the system, are mounted below the level of the pipes. For comfortable maintenance, they are equipped with removable covers. The collector well is located in the lower part of the site, the installation is carried out after the completion of the assembly of wells and pipes into a single system. Plastic collectors are easy to install, the flow of water collected in them flows by gravity into a reservoir, pond or storm sewer.

The final stage

After completing the installation work on the drainage device around the house, you can begin to improve the area. The backfilled system is covered with turf on top, on which flowers and garden crops with a shallow root system can be planted. With the help of decorative and marble chips, you can outline the location of the ditches, while decorating the landscape design with original materials. If the task is to make the drainage of a summer cottage with a large slope, then the sequence of work does not change. The drainage system combined with drains is connected to a catchment well or storm water inlet.

Do-it-yourself drainage is not an easy, but effective way to reduce groundwater levels. Labor-intensive actions allow you to get an excellent result in the form of a dry foundation, a basement, a healthy garden that will delight the owner for a long time.

Types and arrangement of the drainage system

Before you make proper drainage on the site, you should understand its varieties and features of the device. The drying system is divided into two types:

superficial;
deep.

The removal of moisture in the first way is considered the simplest, fastest and least expensive. Along the perimeter of the site, a complex of interconnected trenches is dug. In the lowest place, a water collector is arranged, into which rain and melt water flow under a slope.

Deep drainage is more difficult to install and is recommended for areas with a high level of groundwater, located on slopes, with clay soil. For the device, pipes with holes for collecting moisture, filter materials, drainage wells and other technological elements are used. A deep drainage system completely hidden underground does not spoil the landscape design.

The engineering system of deep drainage consists of various parts and accessories for them: drainage perforated pipes in a geotextile filter, one- and two-layer, elements of shafts of wells, bottom-plugs of wells, polymer hatches, polyester geotextiles, connecting tees, couplings, crosses, bends, plugs, check valves. The price of products is not small, but one-time costs will quickly pay off with a long service life and improvement in the condition of the site.

Groundwater level at the site

You can independently determine the level of groundwater on the site using a dug hole, 0.5 meters deep. If after some time water appears in it, then the level of occurrence is less than a meter and the installation of drainage is mandatory. Visually high humidity confirms the state of green spaces: trees, shrubs, lawns. Rotting and death of adult trees, grass, bushes confirms the close occurrence of moisture. In Moscow and the Moscow Region, you can order a drainage service for a summer cottage to professionals who will do everything right. But with the Lightdrain system, all the work is easy to do with your own hands. At the same time, you will save your budget.

Rising groundwater levels are fraught with negative consequences for land owners. This kind of flooding occurs due to melt water or due to the high intensity of precipitation. Soils consisting mainly of clay or loam are a real disaster for the owners of summer cottages, since this rock is a substance that does not pass water well through itself. Therefore, soils of this type have to be drained by using drainage, rather than waiting for the natural removal of excess moisture.

In this article, we will look at examples of how to make drainage for a summer cottage with your own hands.

Before you start draining the soil, you need to understand what is required for the job and how to implement it. In most cases, land owners prefer to involve professionals to carry out drainage work, although such activities are not cheap.

At the same time, the construction of a drainage system does not seem to be something super complicated. Almost anyone can master this skill by acquiring the necessary knowledge and purchasing the required material.

The results of the refusal to carry out drainage work

Waterlogged soil can cause a variety of problems, including the following:

destruction of the foundation masonry, the appearance of cracks in the walls and the curvature of window openings, which manifests itself with regular flooding of buildings;
dips on paths lined with stone or tiles, deformation of ordinary paths and extrusion of pools due to the so-called heaving, which is caused physical properties soil oversaturated with moisture;
the formation of mold and dampness as a result of flooding of spaces under the floor and basements;
the death of trees and flowers, as plants require a watering rate, and excessive moisture harms them.

Under what conditions is drainage in a summer cottage especially important

Clay soil structure.
High level of underground waters.
Most of the territory is covered with materials of artificial origin, for example, in the form of concrete paths.
The buildings erected on the territory are installed on deep foundations.
The location of the site is determined by the lowland, when there is a slope nearby, from which water can drain, or, conversely, the flat area of the territory does not contribute to the runoff of precipitation.

If your site corresponds to the above conditions, or some of them are relevant, you should think about creating a soil drainage system.

The main mistake of organizing drainage

The main drawback of arranging drainage in a summer cottage is poor design or its absence at all. At the same time, it is necessary to clearly understand how and to what extent the same drainage pipes will be installed. In this case, an analysis of the site is required, including the study of the occurrence and behavior of groundwater.

Water usually has the most detrimental effect on the foundation of structures, so it is worth paying attention to the design of drainage even at the stage of building a house. For example, it may be necessary to build another basement as a barrier to groundwater.

Failure to design, as well as improper development of the drainage system, is fraught with problems, the solution of which will take a lot of time, effort and money.

Types of drainage

There are two types of soil drainage systems:

Direct drainage on the site must be carried out either in a place empty of buildings and communications, or when all engineering structures for the house have already been laid. By contacting a specialized company, you can order the creation of a project for a drainage system and its installation.

A carefully designed drainage plan is an important part of the work due to the fact that in this case an individual approach is required, taking into account the full range of site features, including the location of plantings, communications, buildings and drainage systems of neighboring territories.

Surface drainage (from 1350 rubles per meter)

It involves the removal of excess water.
The depth of occurrence is from 50 to 70 cm.
Its use is possible when it is warm outside.

To determine the cost of drainage, characterized as surface, it is required to refer to the following calculation formula, provided that the soils of the site contain a lot of clay:

S:8=L,

where S is the area of the territory, measured in m²; 8 - the area of water collection with the help of 1 running meter of drainage; L is the length of the drainage system in lin. m.

If the conditions include a plot area of 1500 m², then we calculate that the length of the drainage system should be 187.5 m, since 1500: 8 = 187.5. At the same time, in reality, a larger drainage area will be needed, which is determined by the need to lay it around buildings and plantings, and these are extra meters.

As for the calculation of the installation of surface drainage on sandy soils, here it is necessary to slightly correct the formula, in particular, instead of 8, the number 12 will have to be used.

Turnkey deep drainage (from 3300 rubles per meter)

It is in demand for lowering the level of groundwater and draining the territory.
The depth of occurrence is from 1.5 m.
Designed for year-round use.

The scheme of this type of drainage:

Mounting

So, let's figure out how to make a drainage system for the soil of the site, point by point:

When arranging surface drainage, trenches with a depth of 50 to 70 cm are provided, and deep ones - from 1.5 m.
At the bottom of the ditch, sand is poured in one layer, the thickness of which is 5 cm.
The next stage is optional, but desirable if there are financial possibilities. We are talking about laying geotextiles on the bottom of the recesses.
Next is a layer of crushed stone 15 cm thick.
Drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are distributed in trenches.
A common soil drainage system is being formed by connecting cylindrical structures.
A layer of crushed stone 20 cm thick is laid.
The geotextile is repositioned.
The trenches are then backfilled with sand and soil.
The territory is put in order with the help of plant soil.

For the convenience of rainfall drainage, the drainage system should be mounted at a slope towards the place of the site, which is its lowest point. Drainage ditches on the site, ponds and any ditches can be used as water receivers. Otherwise, you will have to equip a special well. His the main task consists in cleaning the drainage system from sand (soil) and collecting water pumped out by a drainage pump. To ensure the possibility of repairing the structure and monitoring its condition, manholes are installed above the places where the pipes and their connections turn.

Surface Drainage Project

For an example of the operation of surface drainage, consider an extremely simple plan for such a system in relation to a specific area. As initial information, we set the condition that it rained, while the water mainly collected at three points (1, 2, 3).

The geography of the site is such that its surface has a slight slope towards the opposite left corner when viewed from the side of the road. In this regard, the main trench (4) is located at the far end of the site. Excess water is discharged into this recess through auxiliary channels (5 and 6). The removal of precipitation from the roof of the house is possible with the help of appropriate trenches (6 and 8). In the case of crossing the path that runs along the house and outbuildings, it is planned to install a bridge (7).

Deep Drainage Project

Below is a plan of the soil drainage system, characterized as deep. The proposed scheme allows you to see that at first the water is collected with the help of drains (1), then it enters the main pipe (2) with further overflow into a special well and, finally, into the water intake. This drainage system is supplemented by wells used to control the operation of the structure in question (3).

When ensuring the functioning of any drainage, the main problem becomes the final removal of precipitation from the site. For this, natural formations in the form of ravines, rivers, streams and ditches near roads are usually used. In their absence, so-called storm drains are created.

Pipes for deep drainage

There are perforated products specifically designed to create deep drainage systems for a summer cottage, which are equipped with holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm. Previously, asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes were used for this purpose, which had such a disadvantage as rapid clogging, which required regular washing.

To date, the situation has changed, as the market is filled with polymer pipes with a diameter of 50 to 200 mm, which are suitable for irrigation and drainage works. There are brands of similar products, supplemented by a filter shell, which eliminates the possibility of clogging the holes with soil and sand particles.

What is geotextile

A material known as geotextile is used to provide gentle drainage. The main properties are that it can actively absorb moisture and retain small grains of debris. Usually the use of this material is more justified in those areas where there is a significant amount of moisture. In this regard, it is somewhat thoughtless to use geotextiles when creating drainage systems in crushed stone and clay soils.

drainage well

To collect precipitation in the absence of natural formations in the form of the same ponds, a drainage well is created, which is a container that is buried in the soil below the level of the pipes. With the help of this facility, water is first accumulated, then distributed. Special cylindrical structures are connected to it, and a pipe or pump is mounted on top to drain excess water.

The drainage well allows you to control the system and carry out preventive maintenance. As a hydraulic container for such an element, you can use a plastic container by buying it at a specialized store or the corresponding department of the shopping center. In addition, a drainage well can be built independently using reinforced concrete rings.

conclusions

Installing a soil drainage system is a rather time-consuming process. However, this should not discourage you from mounting such a structure yourself, since every home master can perform such work without the involvement of specialists.

Water is the main source of life for all plants, including garden crops. However, if there is too much moisture, then the area becomes unsuitable for growing anything. Yes, and not a single owner of summer cottages and country houses will like to live in a flooded area.

From excess moisture, the foundation of the structure will soon begin to disperse, fall through, cracks will appear on the walls over time, which will increase after prolonged rains. All this, of course, is sad, but this problem is completely solvable. How to drain the area from water with your own hands? Let's get rid of this problem together.

Drainage of the territory includes a number of measures and activities that are aimed at diverting water from the surface of the earth or into a prepared drainage well.

With a low degree of soil moisture, simple methods are used, for example, planting moisture-loving trees and shrubs. Such a measure is quite .

Radical drainage measures are needed in the following situations:

With a high level of groundwater, reaching 1-2 meters to the surface of the earth.
GWL rises to the basement or higher.
Clay or loamy soil poorly absorbs melt water and precipitation.
Water accumulates on the site due to the fact that it is located in a lowland.
The area is swampy due to the proximity of the reservoir.

Each of these options involves effective way, which will allow you to drain the area with your own hands.

What should be taken into account when choosing a method of reclamation?

When choosing the most appropriate solution to the problem, you should consider:

soil type;
the level of its water permeability;
the area of land on which there is water;
optimal level of dewatering;
a period of time;
groundwater level at the site;
the presence of finished buildings available on the site;
the amount of vegetation;
direction of underground sources.

Dehumidification Options

The following land drainage methods are most common:

site drainage;
sewers and ditches;
raising the ground level;
planting of moisture-loving trees.

Planting green spaces

This is the simplest way to solve the problem under consideration. Some trees and shrubs are able to hold a large amount of moisture. This method is suitable if you need to drain a small area in the center of which a building has already been erected. Birches or oaks are best suited as green "driers". It is believed that these trees will help remove excess water from the soil surface.

Tip: Of the fruit trees in a site with high humidity, only plums will take root. Choose varieties of renkloda or thorns that will do the job perfectly and help remove unnecessary moisture.

How to plant trees correctly?

Dig a planting hole at least 1.5 m in diameter and up to 100 cm deep.
Fill the bottom with gravel for drainage.
Next, fill in a layer of fertile soil.
Plant a tree.
Fill the hole with soil mixed with coarse gravel (with the exception of the space near the seedling trunk itself).

Raising the level of the soil

This is not very difficult to do: order several trucks with earth and evenly raise the soil in the drained area to the required height. Remember that it is best to do the drainage work before building the house, otherwise all the water will collect in the lowest place - near the standing house, and this is an even more difficult problem.

soil drainage

Excess water in a summer cottage is a problem that is solved by laying a drainage system. It is designed to ensure the outflow of surface water from the site, if, for example, in the spring the land was flooded.

Starting the arrangement of drainage on the site, consider the following points:

terrain;
the water level in the ground;
the amount of precipitation;
communications plan;
placement of a cellar, basement or other buried buildings;
soil composition;
the presence of vegetation.

The drainage system can help even in draining a site with a high level of groundwater. There are 3 main drainage design options:

open;
closed;
backfill drainage in the area.

open drainage

This type of drainage is a ditches that break through the site with a slope in one direction. It is in them that most of the precipitation should accumulate, and then transported to the drainage well or absorbed into the lower layers of the soil.

Open site drainage is most suitable for clay soils that do not pass moisture well. Open ditches save from the situation when water stands and does not leave due to the abundance of precipitation and melting, redirecting water coming from the soil surface.

Open-type drainage is easy to equip with your own hands. The depth of the ditch is calculated taking into account the location and purpose, and the width is one third of the depth.

It should be remembered that near buildings, the depth of the channel should be 250-350 mm below the base of the buried supports. In addition, ditches should not be located along the perimeter of buildings, so as not to cause the process of deformation of the foundation. Drainage work on the arrangement of open drainage should be carried out in the following order:

Cover the ditches with geotextile with a good margin on the sides.
Pour coarse gravel halfway or 2/3 deep.
Next, pour fine gravel so that 10-15 cm remain to the ground level.
Wrap the edges of the geotextile, protecting the bulk layer from silting.
Form a layer of sand and soil on top.

Note! If you use colored decorative gravel in blue or blue, you can decorate a ditch under a dry stream.

Closed drainage

With a closed drainage option, a network of PVC pipes is buried in the ground, with the help of which excess moisture will go into separately placed drainage wells. Pipes are wrapped with geotextiles to filter sand and soil particles.

The principles for calculating the size and depth of a closed-type drainage are the same as for the open version. There is only one difference: the walls can be made sheer, since the layer of filter rock will act as a reinforcement in this case. Closed drainage of the site is a salvation from groundwater.

Backfill (deep) drainage

The scheme for laying backfill drainage is similar to the previous option. The difference between the closed and backfill options is that instead of pipes, the trench is half filled with broken bricks or large gravel. The upper part of the ditch is filled up. The topmost layer of drainage is formed from the soil.

Important: Backfill drainage quickly silts up. This problem can be prevented by creating an additional filter layer of tecton or geotextile.

Digging holes and ditches

Drainage of the summer cottage, many owners produce by digging the main pits and ditches. How to get rid of excess moisture using this method?

pits

The simplest solution, if it often floods, is to dig with your own hands in the lowest parts of the pit 80-100 cm deep, 2 m wide at the surface and half a meter at the bottom. For all its simplicity, this system is quite effective: excess water from the site will accumulate in these pits. The rest of the territory will be provided with water supply.

ditches

The ditch system is a little more difficult to organize. The most commonly used option is open diversion ditches, which will remove melt water from the site. To do this, dig ditches along the perimeter of the land plot with a width and depth of 40 cm or more. The walls of these ditches should be sloping by 20-25 °.

The main disadvantage of this method is that the walls of the ditch will gradually crumble and become clogged with small debris. To strengthen them, you can use wooden boards or concrete slabs.

At the bottom of the ditch, you can put a pallet made of concrete or metal. From blockages and vegetation, the ditch will have to be regularly cleaned and cleaned with a shovel. A common diversion ditch, which is arranged along the road, serves as a water intake.

So, draining the site with your own hands is a completely solvable problem. You just need to choose the most suitable method and make a little effort. And there are plenty of options for what the owner should do in this case and how to deal with excess water on the site. We get rid of the problem - and live in your pleasure!