What floor to make in the basement. Do-it-yourself insulation of the wooden floor of the first floor above the basement

Each owner of a house or cottage sooner or later thinks about the construction of a cellar or basement. This room is very necessary in everyday life. After all, the best place to store pickles, as well as the crop harvested from the land. In addition, the basement is very often done in the garage. . This option is more suitable for city residents, because they also need somewhere to store various pickled spins or vegetables collected in the country. To make a cellar or basement with your own hands is within the power of everyone who wishes, the main thing is not to be afraid.

Cellar or cellar, what's the difference?

The basement is considered a room that is made directly in the building, be it a house or a garage. It is used to store fruits and vegetables, as well as various preserves. The main task of the basement is to help the owners of the house to keep the entire crop longer so that they can eat apples, potatoes, carrots, cabbage, etc. both in winter and in spring. To do this, during the construction of this room, they think well, such moments as ventilation, humidity and temperature, so that the harvested root crops and fruits do not deteriorate.

The cellar has the same task. Its difference with the basement is that it is a separate structure, which is being built near the house or cottage. It is worth noting that the cellar is made when the basement cannot be made in the house due to the occurrence of groundwater, which can harm the foundation. Well, the advantage of the basement is that you don’t need to go outside when it rains or it’s very cold in the yard, everything you need to be in the house.

True, it is worth noting that today, these words cellar and basement are synonymous and are used to refer to a room where conservation or harvest is stored.

How to make a concrete floor in the cellar with your own hands?

Before starting active work, the main task that faces the owner of the site is to determine how deep the groundwater is. Their level must be checked in the spring, when the snow melts and groundwater rises to its maximum height. The easiest way to determine how much their level has increased is to use wells. You can also use folk methods, but for this you need to understand the names of plants:

• where moisture-loving plants grow - horsetail, reeds, horse sorrel, it is better to dig a well;
• well, by the deduction method, if these plants bypass certain areas, then this place is ideal for a cellar.

Also, to increase the chances of arranging a cellar in a good place, it is better to choose hills.

Why concrete floor?

The creation of just such a floor in the basement of a garage or house is quite simple to explain - the tree cannot be stored for a long time at this level of humidity and temperature, and the soil is not very convenient for use, so it is more comfortable to use in a cellar or basement, durable, solid and durable concrete floor . In addition, it withstands mechanical damage well, it is simply repaired and cleaned.

You can also talk about such advantages of a concrete floor:

• fireproof;
• not affected by moisture;
• all work can be done by hand , without involving third-party specialists;
• rodents or insects cannot start in it;
• a concrete floor can serve as an excellent base for a top coat, such as ceramic tiles.

Concrete floor in basement garage

It is worth noting that the device of the concrete floor in the basement of a garage or a house is the same. Work begins with surface preparation, which in most cases is soil.

• In order for the future floor to be even, from the very beginning it is necessary to do everything correctly and efficiently. The soil, which will serve as the basis, must be carefully leveled and compacted;
• Then a layer of crushed stone or gravel is poured on top, which will add hardness to the base of the floor;
• After that, you definitely need to equip a pillow of sand. The sand needs to be moistened and compacted, this will add hardness to the base, and will also level the surface even better;

At this stage, the preparation of the subfloor in the garage is completed.

It is followed by the stage of waterproofing. The importance of this element lies in the fact that waterproofing protects the basement in the garage from the penetration of cold and moisture from the ground, thereby reducing the likelihood of fungus and mold. The device of the waterproofing layer is carried out using roofing material or other bituminous materials.

To date, there are several varieties of waterproofing materials:

• cement-based mastics;
• waterproofing paints;
• film waterproofing;
• injectable penetrants.

The easiest and most affordable way to waterproof a garage basement is to use rolled materials. They must be overlapped so that each strip extends 15-20 cm onto the previous one. It is also necessary that the material extends 25 cm onto the walls of the room. Thus, waterproofing will prevent moisture from entering the joints of the floor and walls. It is better to fasten all parts of the material together with construction tape.

On a note!!! If it was decided to lay several layers of waterproofing, then the next layer must be laid perpendicular to the previous one.

Now it's time for the formwork. If the basement in the garage or house will occupy a large area, then the floor surface is divided into several squares, and the work itself is carried out in stages and lasts more than one day. With a small room, you can manage in a day. The formwork is the structure where the concrete will be poured. It is mounted from boards or plywood with a thickness of about 2 cm. As mentioned above, in large rooms several squares of formwork are made, the size of each depends on the productivity of work per day.

The next step in installing the floor in the basement of the garage is called reinforcement. As the main material, reinforcement of different thicknesses is used. It increases the rigidity and strength of the floor structure, allows you to withstand large weight loads. Reinforcement bars are interconnected in such a way that a mesh is obtained.

The optimal diameter of the reinforcement rods for the floor in the basement or cellar is 0.5 cm. If in the future the floor must withstand heavy loads, then the craftsmen take reinforcement with a diameter of 10-16 mm.

After completion of the reinforcement, you can proceed directly to pouring concrete. For this, a solution is prepared. Cement is used as the main material; various plasticizers can also be added to the solution, which strengthen the structure and accelerate its hardening. These substances can also be contained in the cement mixture itself.

Another point, before the direct pouring of concrete, you must first set the beacons, which will level the floor surface. The step between the lighthouses depends on the room, but the craftsmen try not to exceed 2 m.

On a note!!! So that after the floor has dried, the beacons can be pulled out more easily, you can lubricate them with oil.

The device of the concrete solution depends on the brand of concrete. To calculate how much mortar is needed: multiply the length of the floor by the width and thickness of the concrete screed. Masters recommend that the result be further increased by 10-15%.

After pouring, you need to give time for the concrete floor to freeze and harden. Then the surface is grouted. To check whether grouting can be done, the following method is used - they step on the surface, if a trace of no more than 4 mm remains on it, then you can get to work. You need to start with those areas that were flooded first.

During grouting, it is recommended to use special concrete hardeners - toppings. First, a rough grout is made, for which they take half the topping. After it, they immediately make another one. Finishing grouting is carried out when the footprint from the shoe does not exceed 1 mm.

Regarding the amount of sealant, everything is simple here, the greater the load on the floor, the more topping should be used. So, for grouting floors, where there will be a standard load, the sealant is taken at the rate of 5 kg per 1 sq.m., for rooms where average weight loads are expected in the future, you already need to use 8 kg per 1 sq.m.

Drainage device

Not always a basement or cellar is made in places where groundwater is very deep. Sometimes there is nowhere to go and you have to get out of the situation. Therefore, in order to reduce the negative impact of groundwater on the premises, internal drainage is first done in it. To do this, at the initial stage of work, you must do the following:

• a trench 50 cm deep is dug around the entire perimeter of the room;
• geotextile is laid at the bottom of the trench and covered with crushed stone or gravel and compacted;
• after which drainage pipes are installed in the trench, which should lead groundwater to a special well. The water collection point is arranged at the lowest point of the basement or cellar and must contain the entire volume of groundwater;
• then the trench is covered with crushed stone or gravel and covered with geotextile.

The basement is a type of buried foundation. A basement floor is considered to be a floor in which the floor level of the premises is lower than the level of the planning mark of the ground by more than half of their height. The height of the basement is taken equal to 1.9 ... 2.2 m. This is enough to accommodate storage facilities or to install heat generators. If it is planned to arrange a gym or a games room in the basement, then its height is assigned not less than in the living rooms.

In the basement it is convenient to store food, make preparations. This is due to the property of the soil to maintain an almost constant temperature. At a depth of 1.5 ... 2 m from the surface of the earth, it keeps at a level of 5 ° C - in winter and 10 ° C - in summer.

The basement (semi-basement) floor is buried in the ground no more than half the height of the floor. Quite often, the basement is arranged during construction on difficult terrain. The height of the basement is equated to the height of the living quarters.

The presence of a basement is the desire of any developer. This is understandable. Useful areas increase without increasing the dimensions of the house. The cost level of housing, if it is supposed to be sold someday, is also rising.

It should be borne in mind that the cost of creating a basement is almost 1.5 - 2 times higher than the above-ground floor, if reliable waterproofing from groundwater is required.

At the same time, when the house is located on dry soils, the presence of a basement or basement in it is justified and desirable, since the costs for it are 2-4 times less than those required to create a conventional floor with the same usable area.

Attention!

If you intend to use imported liquefied gas (propane) as a fuel for cooking or for heating, it is better to refuse from the basement or basement. This gas is heavier than air. If accidentally leaked, it can accumulate in the lower unventilated cavities of the house and lead to an explosion. (Fig. 1).

Rice. one

The design of the basement and the foundation under it is determined by the level of groundwater, the degree of heaving of the soil, the type of floor and the basement waterproofing scheme.

From the position of the foundation device under the house, the basement is carried out according to two schemes: based on a slab (Fig. 2, a) and supported by tape (Fig. 2, b). Each of them has its applicability and its cost.

To build a house with a basement at a high level of groundwater should be on the stove. Reinforcement of the slab and its concreting will require a lot of money, but it is much easier to ensure the tightness of the connection between the slab and the basement walls. The thickness of the slab (15 ... 25 cm) depends on the dimensions of the house and the location of the internal load-bearing walls of the basement. The slab reinforcement is a rigid spatial frame laid over its entire area. Reinforcement diameter - 12... 15 mm.

With a high level of groundwater, for those who want to build a house with a basement, you can use a well-known technique. The depth of the pit under the basement is made small, to the level of groundwater. After the construction of the basement, the excavated soil is poured around the future house, which will be on some elevation. The visual image of the house will be more advantageous, and groundwater will not bother you much.

If the groundwater level is low and the builder does not face the problem of ensuring the tightness of the basement, then the basement walls can be supported on the tape. With this design, the basement floor is not power. It does not connect with the foundation tape and with the walls. The thickness of the tape is 20 ... 30 cm, the width is 4 ... 5 cm more than the thickness of the wall.

As for the thickness of the basement walls, it is determined by the building material itself, the heaving of the soil, the depth of the basement in the ground, the length of the walls and the type of floors (Fig. 3). If the walls are buried in non-rocky soil by more than 1 m, then their thickness is determined taking into account the lateral pressure of the soil (Table 1).

Table 1. Minimum thickness of basement walls in non-rocky soils

basement wall material	Basement depth from floor to blind area (m)	The thickness of the basement walls with their length clear (cm)
		up to 2 m
Reinforced concrete
Monolithic concrete
concrete blocks
Rubble concrete
Brickwork
rubble masonry

With such wall thicknesses on non-rocky soils, basement floors do not have to be concrete.

The main task of the developer who decided to build a basement is to exclude its moisture from groundwater or flood waters. Capillary moisture should not cause an increase in humidity in the room or dampening the structure of the house itself.

To seal the basement, three layouts of the sealing layer are used:

• external anti-pressure;
• internal anti-pressure;
• waterproofing to protect against capillary moisture.

While doing external anti-pressure waterproofing it should be borne in mind that its upper edge must be at least 0.5 m higher than the expected groundwater level (Fig. 4, a). The pressure from the waterproofing layer is transferred to the load-bearing enclosing elements of the floor and walls, which makes it more preferable.

The horizontal section of the waterproofing is applied over the leveled and smooth concrete preparation up to the basement bottom. Such a screed thickness 4...5 cm is made from a mixture of sand and cement 6: 1, which is desirable to be reinforced with a mesh. A layer of primer is applied to the prepared surface of the slab, and bituminous mastic is applied to it. After that, sheets of roofing material are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm. The roofing material should protrude 15 cm beyond the basement walls. In wet soils, insulation is made of two layers of roofing felt or roofing material is used. To protect the insulation from damage, it is covered from the outside with a layer of cement mortar. If roofing is used as a roll material, then tar impregnation is applied to the concrete.

Vertical sections of rolled waterproofing are applied to the walls and protected from the outside with half-brick masonry, concrete slabs, or a layer of sprayed concrete. The overlap of the horizontal and vertical sections of the waterproofing is carried out by bending the horizontal waterproofing by at least 15 cm. The vertical waterproofing is removed at least 15 cm above the ground surface.

If the groundwater lies below the basement floor level and the soils there are low-moisture, then it is enough to confine ourselves to coating waterproofing with the application of hot bituminous mastic in two layers up to 2 mm thick. Before applying the mastic, the walls should be coated with a primer.

The space between the walls of the basement and the ground is clogged with greasy clay, arranging a clay castle.

Internal anti-pressure waterproofing arranged, as a rule, in already existing buildings or during repair work related to the elimination of leakage of basement enclosing structures (rice. 4b). Since the pressure on individual sections of the walls of the inner caisson can be significant, structural reinforcements are required to perceive it.

Basement waterproofing from capillary moisture does not require high quality work, as was required when creating anti-pressure waterproofing. Of course, this waterproofing scheme is not suitable for protection against pressure water. (rice. 4c).

Internal anti-pressure waterproofing on plaster mortar began to be used relatively recently, with the advent of plaster solutions with a high degree of adhesion and fast setting. With pressures up to 2 - 3 meters, which is typical for the basements of residential buildings, the use of such waterproofing plaster compositions and mastics allows you to perform internal waterproofing without creating a caisson, with the transfer of water load to the plaster solution (rice. 4d). As a rule, such a waterproofing option is used during repair and restoration work as an addition to the existing option.

If the sealing layer could not stand it and a leak occurred, then eliminating this drawback, even by filling the basement with soil, will not lead to anything good, because it is very difficult for moisture to leave the sealed basement. Therefore, constant dampness in the underground is inevitable, even when the groundwater goes far down. True, one can hope for modern waterproofing coatings, putties. But if floors have already been laid in the basement, finishing work has been completed, then it will not be easy to eliminate such leaks.

Many developers who are just starting their construction path do not take into account the hydrostatic pressure of groundwater. This can lead to the emergence of basements and cellars, inspection pits of garages and sewer cesspools, unfilled pools. All of the above are quite frequent phenomena if the level of groundwater or flood waters is high, and the weight of the structure is small.

From the practice of the river fleet

For a long time, floating landing stages have been used as piers on rivers and lakes - piers, the lower one, the main part of which is a sealed reinforced concrete building. On top of it, a light two-story wooden structure of the pier itself is being built. .

This is how a house with a basement or cellar should be presented to those who may have ground or flood water levels rising above their floor level.

The tightness of the basement is ensured by the watertightness of the walls and the slab of the house on which it is erected.

From the practice of an individual developer

With a sufficiently high level of flood waters, the developer nevertheless decided to make a basement. The house is small, 6x8 m, you can try. Everything was done almost according to science.

They dug a foundation pit 1.8 m deep, made a backfill of coarse-grained sand, laid waterproofing, and cast a concrete base 10 cm thick with its reinforcement with a mesh (you cannot call such a thin reinforced concrete creation a slab). After that, exactly along the perimeter, the developer laid three rows of FBS foundation blocks and blocked the basement with slabs.

Spring came. Guard!!! The floor of the basement was strongly raised, water went through the cracks formed (Fig. 5).

What happened?

The hydrostatic pressure acting on the floor from below turned out to be supercritical. When the water level in the soil is 1 m above the basement floor, a pressure of 1 ton acts per unit area of ​​the floor. That is, on the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthis basement of 48 m 2, a force of 48 tons acts from below. This is the weight of a very heavy tank or a whole wagon. The thin floor couldn't handle it.

How it should have been done. The floor slab must be at least 20 cm thick, and its reinforcement must be correctly executed. Significant strengthening of the basement floor could be provided by the construction of one transverse wall.

If you take a closer look at such a foundation, then it is striking that the wall is too close to the edge of the slab on which it rests. Our builder laid the foundation blocks close to the perimeter of the concrete floor. Apparently, he decided to save on the volume of earthworks and concreting. With this design of this unit, the basement floor from the pressure of the soil immediately from the edge begins to be intensively loaded with a bending moment (Fig. 6, a).

Large bending loads are both significant deformations and destructive stresses in the basement slab. With weak soil compaction under the slab, this manifests itself to a greater extent.

In the option when the floor slab extends beyond the wall contour by 30 - 40 cm (Fig. 6b), the maximum value of the bending moment becomes much lower. The plate could be made thinner without fear of deformation and destruction.

A similar failure of a floor slab can occur with an unburied slab. A heavy garage can severely deform the slab, especially if its integrity is compromised by an elongated opening under the viewing hole (Fig. 7).

When constructing a basement, concrete floors are laid on its walls. This is due to the fact that the lateral pressure of the soil on the walls must be transferred to something. Especially large lateral loading of the walls arises from heaving of the soil, since it tends to expand when it freezes in all directions. Rigid ceilings allow you to close on yourself the loads that fall on the walls of the basement from all sides. This calculation model considers the basement wall as a set of vertically located beams that transfer the load from the soil to the concrete floor and to the concrete floor. (Fig. 8).

That is why the walls of the basement during construction are loaded with concrete floors in the same season, without waiting for the heaving soil to tilt the walls inside the basement with its expansion.

This scheme was adopted during the construction of the basement using TISE technology. Such vertical beams are created in every fourth vertical channel of the wall after they are filled with reinforcement and concrete. This scheme works well regardless of the dimensions of the basement and the breakdown of its internal walls.

It is interesting

With a power scheme representing a wall in the form of a set of vertical beams, the walls of the basement can be made thinner, the heavier the house is from above (from the conditions of the stressed state of the wall loaded with weight and lateral pressure). Under these conditions, there are no tensile stresses in the concrete mass, from which it could collapse.

When erecting basement walls from ready-made concrete blocks, horizontal reinforcement is performed. In this case, the wall works according to a different design scheme, in which it is considered as a set of horizontal beams that transfer the lateral load from the soil to the external and internal walls of the basement. Due to the large span of such a horizontal beam, the basement wall must have a large thickness or effective horizontal reinforcement. (Fig. 9).

In reality, the basement wall should be considered as a set of simultaneously working vertical and horizontal beams. Moreover, the heavier the house itself, the more weight the basement walls are loaded with, the closer the design scheme is to the wall with vertically arranged beams.

From construction practice

The construction of basement walls is often performed using large-sized prefabricated FBS foundation blocks. (Fig. 10). As a rule, when performing corner bonding with these blocks, the overlap of blocks along the entire length of the wall is the most minimal.

With weak horizontal reinforcement, the narrow zone of vertical FBS joints turns into a hinged joint. In the absence of a basement floor and a sufficiently large soil pressure subject to heaving phenomena, part of the wall may go inward.

Correcting the situation and stopping the process of destruction of the basement walls is possible only with the construction of reinforcing walls in the basement. This is quite an expensive pleasure, and the basement will lose all its attractiveness.

The basement wall can collapse from soil pressure even without heaving phenomena, during the installation of floor slabs. The truck crane supports, installed in close proximity to the basement walls, create a sufficiently high level of stress in the soil. The load on the retractable support and the lateral soil pressure on the basement walls are especially high when the installation of distant slabs, the furthest from the truck crane, is in progress (Fig. 11).

To avoid such destruction, the distance from the wall to the edge of the truck crane support platform must be at least 0.8 m.

The installation of the floor should begin with the laying of nearby slabs, which can increase the stability of the basement walls.

The device of the basement begins with digging a foundation pit. When planning this stage of work, the developer should not forget that in winter the freezing boundary in the pit area will drop. Soil with a dense structure, when saturated with water and freezing, can reduce its density and rise by 10 ... 15 cm (Fig. 12, a). If the developer managed to build a basement, but did not provide for its insulation, then heaving phenomena can raise the basement by 10 ... 15 cm, causing destruction or unacceptable displacements. To prevent this from happening, you should insulate the basement according to one of two schemes that provide for insulation along the floor or along the basement floor. (Fig. 12, b, c). The latter option is more successful, since in the absence of overlap, the walls of the basement can lean inward from the pressure of heaving soil. Snow cover here can be considered basement insulation.

When planning the insulation and waterproofing of basement walls from the outside, we pay attention to the quality of their installation. Surfaces in contact with frozen ground must be smooth, and their connection to the wall must be reliable. The fact is that heaving soil, when expanding, can capture part of the coating and break it. (Fig. 13, a). Moisture ingress into the wall will be inevitable.

The adhesion forces of the soil with the insulation can be significantly reduced by introducing a layer of sand between the soil and the insulation and arranging effective drainage. The sand should not be fine, and it is better to separate the soil and sand with roofing paper or polyethylene. Waterproofing is placed under the insulation, applying it to the wall itself. Sandfill must be connected to the drainage system (Fig. 13, b). The top two-thirds of the sand backfill can be replaced with soil. Outside, the insulation can be protected by brickwork or rigid panels (cement particle board or asbestos-cement sheet).

In most cases, in private houses, the basement has a rather small area, so the owners try by hook or by crook to make sure that there is as much free space as possible. For example, the question of the dimensions of the room (in particular, its height) is quite acute if the basement is used as a garage. But even in an ordinary vegetable cellar, you want to be able to straighten up to your full height. That is why many suburban homeowners are wondering how to make the floor as low as possible. Some people solve the problem radically - they simply leave the floor in the basement of the house as it was after digging the foundation pit, that is, unpaved.

If the building is located on a relatively elevated site with good drainage, there should not be any particular problems. On the other hand, if the soil under the house is sufficiently moist and groundwater comes close, then the arrangement work will come out much more expensive.

When the house is still under construction, then, if possible, it is better to choose a strip foundation. This approach will give certain advantages in the arrangement of the basement: strong walls, initial zoning of space in accordance with living rooms, etc.

Floor construction methods

For the construction of the floor in the basement, the following materials can be used: concrete, soil, logs, monolithic slabs.

When using a monolithic slab, we can talk about the maximum reliability of the floor. Of course, such a floor can only be made at the earliest stages of building a house, that is, during the laying of the foundation. In addition, the basement floor will turn out to be comfortable and warm if you make it the so-called "Swedish stove". This technology involves laying insulation under the slab. If the building provides for the presence of a basement, then this option is also preferable. Concrete can be poured directly onto the ground, but it is best to compact sand and gravel before that, making a kind of “pie” (pillow) out of these materials. Such a cake increases the reliability of the structure, especially if loam and clay are present on the site.

The concrete floor in the basement is the most common option.

A basement floor using a log is made in those houses where the likelihood of flooding from groundwater is minimal (or a high-quality drainage system has been made). In addition, such a coating can be made in the garage, which has a deep cellar.

Dirt floors can also be relevant, but only in cases where it is absolutely necessary to save room height or money.

To pour the concrete floor in the basement, you will need the following tools:

• Concrete mixer. If you do not have it, then the solution can be kneaded by hand, casting the floor in small squares. Despite the fact that such work takes a lot of effort, it can be done in the basement without problems.
• Trowel and grater. These tools will come in handy when you need to level the cement slurry. Concreting in this case is of extremely high quality. In addition, the floor needs to be sanded if some kind of flooring is planned in the future. If this flooring is made of wood, then additional leveling of the concrete floor is not required.
• Bulgarian with disks on stone.

When mixing the mortar in a concrete mixer, use the ingredients in the proportions indicated on the cement bag.

The stages of work are as follows:

1. First of all, the building level is taken and with its help the bottom of the pit is leveled, which in the future will become the basement floor. The soil must be compacted with any available tools.
2. Sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit, which must be leveled and laid in an even layer of 10-20 cm. It is also well compacted, while being periodically irrigated with water.
3. Medium-sized crushed stone is poured onto the sand layer. The crushed stone cushion is also carefully compacted. It turns out a kind of "pie" of sand and gravel, which will become the basis for creating a basement floor.
4. Then comes the turn of creating a layer of waterproofing floor. In most cases, traditional roofing material or some modern material in the form of a canvas is used for this. The laying of the roofing material should be overlapped with the sheets overlapping each other by about 10 cm. In addition, they should also overlap by about 25 cm.
5. Next comes the insulation. To make a basement floor, heat insulators based on stone or basalt wool, fiberglass are usually used. Materials of this type will qualitatively absorb the moisture that has appeared, thereby preventing the basement from flooding. Of course, mineral wool heaters quickly become unusable, so it is recommended to use modern heat insulators (for example, polyurethane foam).
6. It is also possible to perform thermal insulation in the basement of a private house, using high-density foam. The material should be laid as tightly as possible. All resulting gaps must be closed with a mounting sealant.
7. Increased attention should be paid to the gaps that will be formed at the point of contact of the heat-insulating material with the basement walls. In these areas, do not use foam, leaving a special gap. It is necessary because in the case of heaving of the soil without it, the heat-insulating layer and the concrete screed can be deformed. As a rule, the width of the gap does not exceed a couple of centimeters.

After all the stages of preparation, we proceed directly to pouring the concrete solution.

concreting

If it is planned to install some heavy appliances in the basement (for example, machine tools for a workshop), then the floor must be additionally reinforced and made thicker (more than 10 cm). In the event that there is no serious load on the floor in your basement, then a concrete mortar thickness of 5 cm is enough. In this case, it is not necessary to reinforce the base.

To create a reinforced belt, a mesh of reinforcement is made. The thickness of the reinforcing bars should be 5 mm. They are tied together with wire.

The cement mortar must be made in accordance with the proportions specified by the manufacturer. All elements of the future solution must be mixed in a concrete mixer. Gradually, water is added to the solution until it acquires the necessary viscosity and plasticity.

Concreting of the floor should take place in stages, but without interruptions. The solution must be leveled over the entire surface area. Before pouring concrete, it is best to install beacons that will clearly demonstrate the thickness of the concrete layer. The resulting "pie" of sand, gravel and concrete will successfully cope with the loads.

In order for the thickness of the concrete to be the same everywhere, a special beacon profile is used.

Once the cement mortar has dried, the concrete surface must be sanded. But before this process, expansion joints are necessarily made. A grinder with a special disk cuts the surface in such a way that several meters are obtained between the seams. This simple method helps prevent cracking of the concrete floor in the future.

Clay floor

The device of basement floors on the ground has one indisputable advantage over conventional concreting - the floors will be warmer. In addition, clay is a good waterproofing agent. If the whole process of installing the floor on the ground is carried out correctly, then such a surface can last for more than a dozen years without requiring repair and special maintenance.

The steps for creating a floor on the ground are as follows:

1. Preparatory stage: the bottom of the pit is carefully leveled and compacted so that the base is as reliable as possible.
2. Crushed stone is mixed with clay, after which the mixture is poured in a layer of 10-20 cm. The mixture is well leveled and compacted.
3. Under the crushed stone layer, filling is necessarily done with the help of expanded clay or slag. These materials in this case will act as heat insulators.
4. To give the floor maximum strength, the first crushed stone layer is concreted with an additional layer of cement-sand mortar.
5. After the clay and crushed stone layer has dried, it is necessary to lay another similar layer, making a kind of pie out of materials.
6. The density of the floor on the ground in the basement of a private house will be maximum if the layers are made as thin as possible. Layers must be alternated until the required thickness is reached.
7. As soon as the surface of crushed stone and clay is completely dry, the floor on the ground must be smeared with liquid clay. If you find any cracks, then they also need to be repaired with clay mortar.
8. For floors on the ground, the top coating can be ceramic tile, laminate and any other floor covering.

Laying the floor on the logs

If you decide to make the floor in the basement of your private house on wooden logs, then the first step is to choose the right wood, as well as think over the installation of a waterproofing layer in advance.

It is best to choose well-dried timber, which will be an excellent solution for logs. The size is recommended to choose 15/15. Edged boards of small thickness (4-5 cm) will become the basis for the surface. Unlike floors on the ground, laying many layers and making a “pie” in this case is not necessary.

The stages of work are as follows:

1. The wood must first be treated with antiseptic compounds. Increased attention should be paid to the sides and end of the board.
2. The beam is sawn into segments of the required length.
3. When laying the boards, you should take into account the presence of a small gap of several centimeters, which should be between the wall and the first board.
4. In the locations of the lag, it is necessary to lay roofing material in several layers. There should not be a large distance between the lags (calculated according to the length of the boards).
5. To fix the bars, long nails are used that need to be hammered in at a slight angle.
6. If you have chosen grooved boards, then each next one must be mounted according to the groove system.

In the event that you have chosen a construction on logs, foresee the deepening of the earthen bottom of the pit, since the floor in the basement of the house will have a significant thickness. This recess must be at least 30 cm.

If the soil on your site is quite wet, then it is better not to choose the option with the floor of the basement of a private house made of boards, because over time, despite the high quality of the waterproofing, the boards will still begin to gradually rot.

The most common version of the foundation for small private houses, when a non-buried strip foundation is made (there is no basement), and the base of the floor is created directly on the existing soil. This is done where there is no threat of high standing groundwater, and the relief of the site is homogeneous, lying approximately at the same level of the horizon. If the soil is located under a large slope, soil moisture during the year is excessive, it makes sense to make the base of the floor of the first floor of the house at a distance from the ground, leaving a ventilated space between them. Features of the device of both floor options in private homes will be considered in this article.

Features of the foundation device

The advantage of floors that rest directly on the underlying soil layers is that they do not carry an additional load on the foundation of a private house. The floors of the first floor, which do not come into contact with the soil, provide for the device of a kind of floor slab, which is based on the foundation. Therefore, the second option requires taking these features into account when designing and calculating the required width of the base sole.

If the base of the floor of the first floor is a reinforced concrete slab, be sure to take care of the waterproofing of the foundation itself and the place of its contact with the overlapping structure, especially if this option is chosen due to the high soil moisture. A slab that is not insulated with a hydrobarrier will pull moisture from the foundation, which will lead to its premature destruction and loss of strength, as well as the penetration of dampness into the house. In addition, care should be taken to ventilate the space between the ceiling and the soil, thereby reducing the level of humidity here.

The device of the floor of the first floor on the ground

This method of arranging floors in a private house where there is no basement is considered the simplest in terms of execution and inexpensive in terms of material costs. There are two main options that apply in this case:

• installation of a concrete floor base (screed);
• installation of wooden floors on logs.

Each of the presented options has its own characteristics, both in terms of the complex of necessary works, and in terms of the final result. The choice often depends on what building material is the main one in the construction of the house itself. If the walls are made of logs or timber, a wooden floor will be more organic. In a stone or brick building, a screed is better. But this is not an absolute pattern, so there may be other combinations.

Concrete insulated screed

The base of concrete, which is poured on the ground, has long been used in all kinds of utility and technical buildings, such as garages, sheds, warehouses. On the first floors of private houses without a basement, concrete screeds have been used relatively recently as the basis for finishing flooring. Several factors influenced the popularization of this method, such as:

• the need to create smooth horizontal surfaces, which require some types of modern flooring;
• the emergence of affordable materials for effective thermal insulation;
• arrangement of systems of water heat-insulated floors for heating.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly create a concrete screed on the ground on the ground floor of private houses.

Preparation and rough filling

Preparatory work begins with tamping the soil and adding a pillow for a rough screed. The soil can be compacted both manually, using a simple device in the form of a piece of log with an attached double-sided handle, and mechanical devices that exist for this purpose. In order for the ramming process to be most effective, the soil surface is abundantly wetted with water.

The initial layer of backfill is selected based on its total thickness. If the distance from the soil to the level of the intended floor is significant (more than 25-30 cm), the most accessible material is used first. It can be construction debris or clay.

Further, the pillow is formed by a layer of large gravel, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. The gravel creates a rigid base, roughly levels the surface and prevents a possible capillary rise of moisture from the underlying layers. On top of the gravel, a sandy (or small gravel) pillow is formed about 5-7 cm thick. The quality of the sand does not play a role here, so a clay-saturated quarry option is quite suitable. The sand cushion is leveled as much as possible, after which a durable plastic film is laid. The latter performs two functions:

• the first layer of waterproofing;
• an obstacle to the water contained in the concrete.

The film is laid continuously with a wall approach of up to 15 cm. Now you can pour a rough layer of concrete. For these purposes, a lean mortar is usually prepared, where the ratio of fillers (sand and gravel) and cement is approximately 9:1. Here, instead of crushed stone, if possible, you can use expanded clay. A pillow made of expanded clay concrete will provide additional insulation for the base of the floor. The rough screed is formed with a layer of about 10 cm. Despite the fact that the initial filling does not have to have an ideal surface, it is desirable to level it more carefully. This will facilitate further waterproofing and laying insulation.

Important! For the preparation of concrete, any sand is not suitable. There is a lot of clay in the quarry material, which will drastically reduce the strength of the concrete slab and lead to its cracking. For these purposes, river sand or washed sand is needed, including for the preparation of expanded clay concrete composition.

The draft layer is usually not reinforced, since the load on it is small. After pouring, a break in work is necessary to allow the concrete to gain strength. Although the material completely crystallizes within 26-28 days, it is sufficient to wait a week. During this time, concrete with sufficient moisture gains about 70% strength. During this period, it is necessary to monitor the proper moistening of the concrete surface, especially if the work is carried out during the hot season. To do this, abundantly moisten the ripening concrete 1-2 times a day.

How to make waterproofing and insulate the floor?

For the main waterproofing layer, it is better to use not a polyethylene sheet, but a full-fledged, reliable material. Here it will be enough to process the rough concrete base with bitumen, followed by laying the rolled material. Suitable roofing material or hydrostekloizol. The rolls are rolled out with an overlap of adjacent strips by 10-15 cm. Hot gluing in this case can not be used, but it is necessary to process the joints with bituminous material. The rolled material is laid on the surface of the wall above the level of the intended finishing screed.

You can insulate the floor with dense foam (it is cheaper), or extruded polystyrene foam. The second one is preferable for these purposes, as it is much stronger, absolutely hydrophobic, and its plates usually have tongue/groove-type docking elements at the edges, which greatly simplifies its installation. The seams between the sheets of insulation can be filled with polyurethane foam or treated with special glue. Foam also needs to go through the gaps around the perimeter of the room between the wall and polystyrene foam.

Finishing fill

For these purposes, a solution is prepared with a normal ratio of 4:2:1, or 3:3:1, where, respectively, gravel, sand, cement. Before finishing pouring concrete, it is necessary to lay a mesh for reinforcement and install beacons, thanks to which it will be possible to achieve a strictly horizontal surface.

Reinforcing mesh can be used metal with a cell of 100 mm, or rigid plastic. The reinforcing elements are overlapped (1-2 cells), not reaching the wall about 1.5 cm. Here, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter, which is designed to compensate for temperature changes in the linear dimensions of the screed. The mesh should not lie on the insulation, but should be located approximately in the center of the concrete layer. To do this, use special stands or improvised means (bottle caps, brick fragments, etc.).

After the installation of the final floor base and its careful leveling (grinding or self-leveling solutions), it remains to wait for its full maturation and proceed with laying the final floor covering.

Wooden floor installation

Despite the wide variety of modern floor coverings, wooden floors have a lot of adherents among consumers. This can be understood given that wood is the most environmentally friendly material that can create a favorable microclimate in a residential area. Moreover, a modern board that is used for flooring allows you to make an ideal surface without cracks, which in appearance is in no way inferior to parquet.

The classic way of laying a floor board involves the presence of a log, - wooden beams, which are arranged in parallel with a certain step, which depends on the thickness of the floor wooden layer. On the ground floor of a private house, when the floors are laid on the underlying soil, preparatory and intermediate work until the creation of a rough foundation and its waterproofing is no different from that described above. That is, for the device of a high-quality wooden floor, a reliable leveled concrete base is also required.

After installing the bearing bars, the floor should be insulated. The use of expanded polystyrenes is undesirable here, since these materials do not allow steam to pass through, which can cause water condensate to form, which will adversely affect the wood. In addition, foam, for example, can be chosen by rodents, which will entail some discomfort.

For a wooden floor on the logs of the first floor of a private house, it is better to use mineral wool, or rather one of its varieties. However, when laying mineral wool, you should take care of the moisture insulation of the insulation. If the hydrobarrier has already been created from below (on top of the rough screed), then it remains only to arrange the top layer of the hydrobarrier film.

What is a basement? In a simple way, a room under the house. Basement construction has its own special technologies, which provide for basement waterproofing, waterproofing of the basement outer wall and foundation. Waterproofing protects the basement, and therefore the house, from moisture and water getting under the house. However, the basement construction technology does not provide for mandatory basement insulation, and even more so, it does not provide for heating in the basement, and even more so in the underground.

But not only the basement, a room in the house for storing a separate household belongings, but also the underground is a source of cold air penetrating into the house. The underground of the first floor is formed between the walls of the strip foundation, as well as all other foundations other than the monolithic foundations of the UWB and RPP. By definition, the underground is a cold, well-ventilated space under the house. Ventilation is provided by special ventilation holes in the foundation (air vents). Mandatory backfilling of soil and layers of crushed stone and sand in the underground do not save from the cold.

All these features make the main requirement for the floor of the first floor of a private house - its insulation. Floor insulation is standardized according to SNiP 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings". More about architectural design at .

5 floor structures above the basement, depending on the type of floor

Basement wooden floor construction

The wooden floor on the first floor of the house is done along the logs. Logs can lie (lean) on pillars made of concrete and brick or matched in size and laying step, made without supports.

In both cases, a wooden filing is made from the bottom of the beam, a non-combustible insulation (mineral wool) is laid on it, and everything is sewn on top with OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

The design of the wooden floor along the logs laid on the supporting pillars is similar. The only difference is in the isolation of the beams from contact with the stone platforms of the supporting pillars with the help of wooden spacers coated with an antiseptic and covered with roofing material.

The picture did not fit one layer of this design, but it is needed. This is a vapor barrier layer, which is laid on the insulation, under the subfloor sheathing of the first floor.

Video articles: Floor insulation

class="eliadunit">

Basement concrete floor construction

Optionally, use beams for the ground floor floor. With a good foundation, a concrete floor slab can become the subfloor of the first floor. In this case, the floor design itself changes, but the principle remains the same: the floor must be insulated and protected from condensation due to temperature differences.

If a concrete slab serves as the base of the first floor, then any floor structure is appropriate:

• Floor on wooden logs laid on a slab, with insulation between the logs;
• Warm water or electric floor;
• Semi-dry screed on a layer of hard insulation, followed by a thin electric floor.

Loaded floor structure (floating floor)

The loaded floor, the basis of which is the floor slab, is done as follows:

A polystyrene foam insulation is laid on the floor slab, a film is overlapped on it, which will serve as a waterproofing agent. A screed is made over the film. The floating floor screed is separated from the walls by a thin layer of insulation (damper). A dry screed is covered with a vapor barrier and a base is laid for the finished floor.

Note

Usually, a wooden underfloor heating device is not used to insulate the floor of the first floor. Let me remind you that a wooden underfloor heating system is made between logs or on a special wooden flooring and reflective elements laid on it.

However, it is quite acceptable to arrange a warm floor on the ground floor if it is a floor slab. The main thing is not to forget that the concrete insulation made of extruded polypropylene should be thicker than 25-30 mm. And also under the insulation, a waterproofing material is laid on the slab, and a heat-reflecting material is laid on the insulation.