Insulation from the inside of the basement: purpose, materials, stages of work. When you need to insulate the foundation and basement outside and inside Insulation of the basement without a basement

It often happens when a residential basement needs additional insulation, which is impossible to produce from the outside for various reasons. The only way out remains - the internal location of the insulation. We will tell you how and how to insulate the basement from the inside.

When it is necessary

To understand whether it is necessary to insulate the basement, you need to understand the features of the operation of this room. To begin with, let's look at some laws of the distribution of thermal energy ().

We want to immediately dispel one well-established misconception associated with the opinion that the cold is somehow able to penetrate the room. To begin with, it should be noted that there is no cold in nature. Cold is the absence of heat, just as darkness is the absence of light, and they cannot penetrate anywhere.

In fact, it is not cold that enters the room, but heat that decreases from the room. And the greater the temperature difference between the inner space and the outer one, the more noticeable and intense this process is.

Important! If your basement is not heated, then there is simply nothing to decrease from it, and to increase the energy efficiency of the house, it is enough to insulate the floor between the first floor and the basement, since the heat is lost from the house where the heating system is located.

There is another problem - the freezing of the walls of the basement. In this case, only external insulation makes sense, since the internal location of the thermal insulation will cool the basement masonry even more, because the small amount of heat that the basement receives will no longer penetrate into the basement structure.

Important! Many basement owners use them to store food, vegetables, pickles, and other perishable goods. In this case, insulation can be harmful, since an increase in the temperature in the basement will reduce the shelf life of these products.

The only alternative is to use thermal insulation together with an adjustable heating system, then you can control the temperature and avoid heat loss.

Now let's voice another important circumstance - if the basement is heated, and there is another heated room on top, then the temperature difference between these objects will be insignificant. Therefore, it makes little sense to insulate the ceiling of the basement floor.

Warming the basement floor is also a dubious measure, since its depth usually exceeds the depth of freezing of the soil, that is, the ground under the basement floor does not cool down enough to create problems with heat leaks. In addition, due to the difference in density, the coldest air accumulates in the floor area, and losses are minimal here.

What materials are best to use

Let's look at the options:

• Styrofoam and expanded polystyrene. These materials are not in vain at the top of the list, as they are the most practical in terms of price / quality ratio, and their installation is the simplest and does not cause difficulties even for beginners and amateurs in the construction business;
• Mineral wool. An excellent insulation that does not burn, does not emit harmful chemicals even at very high temperatures, is not afraid of pests and does not deteriorate. The only problem is the hygroscopicity of cotton wool, which requires reliable waterproofing;
• polyurethane foam. The most effective material for thermal insulation today, which is applied in liquid form to the walls, creating a continuous seamless coating. The popularity of polyurethane foam is low due to the high cost of the material and its installation;
• Loose insulation. A cheap and therefore common version of insulation, however, there is no way to place it indoors.

As you can see, we are left with two acceptable options - mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Here, when choosing between these materials, one should use such a criterion as the humidity of the walls. If the waterproofing of the foundation is of poor quality or is completely absent, then it is better to use expanded polystyrene, since it is not afraid of moisture.

Mineral wool should be installed when your walls have normal humidity and will be sheathed with drywall, plywood, clapboard or other similar coating, as it is more convenient to lay it under the frame.

Covering the inner walls with cotton wool for plaster is not the best option, since even the toughest cotton wool can be crushed under a certain pressure on the wall. As a result, the interior decoration will be destroyed.

Insulation installation

If you decide to insulate the basement with your own hands, then we have compiled a step-by-step instruction with photos especially for you:

1. We clean the walls of dirt and debris, carefully seal all seams, eliminate shortcomings and flaws;

1. We cover the walls with a deep penetration primer;

1. We take a sheet of expanded polystyrene (or polystyrene), cut off the locks from the left end (if installation is done from left to right) and apply glue to the sheet with a dosing spatula with teeth;

1. We press the sheet to the wall and fix it with dowels. We hammer dish-shaped dowels into the left corners and in the middle;

We press the sheet to the wall and fix it.

Under most of the old houses and under each new one, as well as under the cottages built with the latest construction technologies, there is an underground floor - this is the basement, which the owners usually use to store vegetables, preparations, and seasonal items.

In modern buildings (brick or wooden house), the basement can be equipped as a functional living room, for example, an office, workshop, gym, home theater, billiard room, etc.

Regardless of the purpose, you can use the basement only if the temperature in it is comfortable. Even if the height of the basement does not allow arranging a full-fledged room in it, it still needs to be insulated, since basement thermal insulation is one of the most effective ways to reduce heat loss in the house.

Do you need to insulate the basement?

From the description above, it becomes obvious that yes, it is better to insulate the basement. Here are some more arguments, for those who doubt:

• useful area is effectively used;
• the appearance of fungi and mold in the basement, which are a source of unpleasant odor and deterioration of the microclimate on the lower floor of the house, is excluded;
• the temperature in the insulated basement does not drop to minus;
• basement insulation in the house makes it possible to protect the foundation from dampness and deformation due to heaving of the soil;
• the rate of destruction of the base of the building is reduced;
• the consumption of electricity or gas for heating the house is reduced.

Note. If the basement is not insulated, according to GOST 9561-91 "Reinforced concrete floor slabs", it is necessary to insulate the ceiling that separates the floor of the first floor from the non-insulated zone. The same requirement is spelled out in SNiP 2.08.01-85

Gives a number of advantages to the owners of the house. This statement is true for residents of regions where winters are cold and the ground freezes deep enough. There is no question of thermal insulation. But there are cases when the insulation of the foundation is a meaningless undertaking.

A bit of theory

Thermal insulation of the underground part has several main goals.

Most residents of southern and central Russia build cottages on concrete foundations and are not particularly worried about this. They live for many years, quite happily and comfortably, without additional warming of the buried part, although for most inhabitants of the northern lands this approach to business seems frivolous and wasteful. First you need to figure out.

Save on insulation

From a theoretical point of view, the foundation can not be insulated in only a few cases.

If you do not insulate the foundation, you can significantly save money on building materials and effort on the actual construction process. The main thing is that such savings do not go sideways. Even at the stage of designing a house, it is worth consulting with professionals and analyzing the information received. Only then can a decision be made about insulation or its absence.

From a theoretical point of view, the foundation can not be insulated in such cases:

To insulate or not to insulate, this question is decided by the owner of the building. There are positive experiences of living in houses with uninsulated foundations, but there are also sad stories. Consult with builders, study the experience of housing construction in your region, draw conclusions and then you will definitely be able to make the right decision.

It is considered the best among other heaters. We recommend watching a video about the insulation of the attic foundation with polyurethane foam below:

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Horse or bulk cellar

1. about 3.5 meters wide;
2. up to 4 meters long.

1. up to 8 meters wide;
2. up to 24 meters long;

By type of storage there are:

• Stationary. They serve up to 8 years.
• collapsible

• Pos. 1 - bins.
• Pos. 2 - soil deboning.
• Pos. 5 - manhole with a door.

• The roof is built from boards.

• Ventilation is being built (see Ventilation in the cellar: doing it right

• The turf layer is removed.

1. expanded clay;
2. small gravel;
3. coarse sand.

1. expanded clay;
2. Styrofoam;

• How to make a hole in the cellar correctly): internal and external.

wall cellar

1. burnt brick;
2. monolithic concrete.

1. croaker;
2. any clay;
3. ruberoid in two layers.

The construction of a warehouse for storing vegetables on your site is a guarantee of the quality of food content all year round. => DIY Labaz: Detailed Building Guide => => publish => open => closed => => labaz-svoimi-rukami-245 => => => 2019-04-17 15:36:32 => 2019-04-17 11:36:32 => => 0 =>?p=4061 => 0 => post => => 8 => raw =>)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 4061 => 2 => 2016-05-07 12:16:56 => 2016-05-07 08:16:56 => Storehouse at their summer cottage low-lying and waterlogged areas, where the construction of a dry-type storage facility is impossible due to the presence of a high level of groundwater here.In appearance, the storage shed is a hut covered with turf, with a small manhole door, maintaining a constant temperature of about 2-3 degrees inside the building. build a vegetable storehouse with your own hands, the article will tell you.

Features and types of storage sheds for storing vegetables

A horse or bulk cellar can be built on any site, while decorating it beautifully, which will make the territory more attractive and original. When constructing a storage shed, the correct choice of its location is of great importance. Construction must be carried out on a dry, preferably elevated, place where the groundwater level is at least 50 centimeters below the bottom of the storage.

Tip: When the water is very close, it is necessary to create a pillow under the bottom of the storage for vegetables, which includes sand and gravel. Such drainage will prevent water from seeping into the room.

The optimal dimensions for a vegetable shed are:

• The height of the structure in the middle part is up to two meters so that the vegetables cannot freeze.
• For private plots, storage is selected:

1. about 3.5 meters wide;
2. up to 4 meters long.

• For commercial storage warehouses are built:

1. up to 8 meters wide;
2. up to 24 meters long;
3. passages with a width of approximately 0.7 meters, the presence of one or two passages depends on the size of the cellar.

By type of storage there are:

• Stationary. They serve up to 8 years.
• collapsible. They can serve up to 10 years. Such structures are erected in the fall and dismantled next year in the spring. This facilitates the annual cleaning and subsequent disinfection of the vegetable store.

Tip: The site on which the vegetable storage previously stood should be disinfected every time after it is dismantled. In this case, the soil is dug up to a depth of approximately 30 centimeters and abundantly spilled with a 5% solution of copper sulfate.

How to build a storage shed with a bunding

Such a structure is the simplest, resembling an ordinary hut; logs or boards are used for its construction.

Tip: It is not necessary to buy new materials, on each site you can find previously used building materials.

Scheme of the construction of a vegetable storeroom According to the scheme:

• Pos. 1 - bins.
• Pos. 2 - soil deboning.
• Pos. 3 - coating with roofing material.
• Pos. 4 - crate of boards, rafters.
• Pos. 5 - manhole with a door.

Instructions for the construction of such a cellar include:

• Logs with a diameter of up to 25 centimeters are skinned.
• They are covered with a bitumen composition or fired to a height of about 60 centimeters, which will double the duration of its operation.
• With a processed edge, the blanks are dug into the ground around the entire perimeter of the building.
• The upper ends of the elements are securely connected to each other by long poles, which makes it possible to obtain a one-piece structure.
• A crate is made from the "croaker".
• The roof is built from boards.
• The structure is covered with roofing material, which creates a fairly reliable waterproofing.
• Thermal insulation is being installed. For this:

1. the end side is sewn up with two rows of boards;
2. roofing felt is laid between them.

• The roof is filled or bunded with peat soil, which perfectly retains heat.
• On it you can sow any creeping or undersized plants.
• An entrance is made with a canopy and an insulated door.

Tip: The entrance to the storehouse must be done on the north side.

• To protect against water entering the cellar, a shallow ditch breaks out around the entire perimeter.
• Ventilation is being constructed (see Ventilation in the cellar: doing it right). A wooden box is used for the hood, the hood is adjusted by a valve and two pipes:

1. exhaust, located under the ceiling;
2. supply, is placed higher than the floor level by 45 centimeters.

The optimal dimensions of the storage shed with bunding will be 4x8 meters, and its service life is approximately 10 years.

Tip: Roof edges should reach the ground itself. Such a built cellar in appearance should resemble a hut. And when snow falls in winter, it will be a natural insulation.

How to build a cellar without embankment

Shed without bunding When constructing such a cellar, the following sequence of work must be observed:

• The marking of the future structure is in progress.
• The turf layer is removed.
• A hole is dug up to 60 centimeters deep.
• The earth is collected in one heap, for further use.
• The site is leveled and carefully compacted.
• The drainage pillow is arranged. For this are used:

1. expanded clay;
2. small gravel;
3. coarse sand.

This creates the necessary waterproofing in the storehouse:

• Protection against the penetration of rodents is created: well-soaked and thoroughly kneaded clay is laid out on the pillow with a layer about 12 centimeters thick.
• Red bricks are placed flat in the mixture with a small gap between them.
• Bricks are laid out for the side walls - placed on edge. To connect the elements, a mixture consisting of sand, lime and clay is used. Laying should be carried out above ground level by one shovel bayonet.
• The ceiling and walls are made of fairly thick boards, 40 - 50 millimeters thick. Elements are sewn in two rows, heat-insulating material is placed between them:

1. expanded clay;
2. Styrofoam;

• The structure is sheathed with roofing material, which avoids drafts in the vegetable shed.
• On the end side of such a cellar, an entrance or a hole is arranged with two doors (see How to make a hole in the cellar correctly): internal and external.

Tip: In severe frosts, insulation must be laid between the doors. To improve the thermal insulation of the storage, you need to build a small vestibule. A ventilation pipe is also installed here.

• A roof is being erected: single or gable of slate or roofing felt.
• A drainage ditch is dug up to 50 centimeters deep along the entire perimeter of the building and a blind area one meter wide is equipped with a slope from the storage, which will prevent its flooding.

How to build a wall cellar

A good solution, which saves the area of ​​​​the site, is the construction of a cellar near one of the walls of the house. In this case, the costs will be minimal.
wall cellar The order of construction is as follows:

• The perimeter of the building is indicated.
• The walls of the vault are laid out. For this you can take:

1. burnt brick;
2. monolithic concrete.

The masonry of the walls is carried out in one brick on a sand-cement mortar. Its ratio is 3:1. The walls of the structure outside and inside are carefully plastered with a cement composition.

• Outside of the building, bituminous grease is applied in two layers, which creates a reliable waterproofing.
• The floor is being made. To do this, the surface of the earth is carefully leveled, cleaned, and a concrete substrate up to 20 centimeters thick is prepared.
• After about 10 days, when the concrete has hardened, a cement-sand mortar about 6 centimeters thick is poured.

Tip: To avoid creating unnecessary stresses in the structure, all concrete work should be carried out in one day. In this case, the solution will solidify evenly over the entire area.

• The roof is constructed from materials such as:

1. croaker;
2. any clay;
3. ruberoid in two layers.

• The embankment is carried out with dry soil and sown with low-growing perennial plants.
• Along the perimeter of the ground manhole, a blind area is made with a slope at a slight degree away from the building and a groove breaks out up to 25 centimeters deep, which will allow rain or melt water to be diverted from the building.
• The finished cellar is equipped with the necessary shelves, containers, where vegetables, home preservation and other products will be placed.
• Waterproofing, ventilation system, insulation, drainage system are being installed.

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Option to insulate a house without a basement along the perimeter of the snaturzhi

The goal of any house construction is a beautiful, durable, and most importantly warm construction, where you can live comfortably for a long time. The use of which will be required in the construction of various kinds of technologies.

The surface of the earth tends to freeze in winter, so it makes sense to lay the insulation immediately during the construction of the supporting structure. The easiest way to insulate the foundation from the outside is to use several types of insulation that are right for your building option.

In which case and how to apply it, it is worthwhile to figure it out in advance, at the initial stage of construction. It is better to carry out the work during the laying of the entire foundation and the concreting of the blind area. This can avoid unnecessary costs in the future, for example, for the development of soil around the perimeter. We will analyze in stages all types of available materials and insulation.

How to choose a material for insulation

Starting the bookmark of the house, its design must be calculated in detail. At this stage, the question arises of choosing the insulation itself, it is decided how to insulate the foundation of the house from the outside. Depending on the design of the bearing part, the material itself is also selected. In the presence of a basement, it can be of several types: sheet, granular, sprayed. Which insulation option to choose, we will analyze in more detail.

If you have a deep foundation, you can insulate with loose insulation. Their cost is low, and some can be obtained from recycled materials. For example, waste of foam concrete or aerated concrete, foam granules is a great option to save money and insulate concrete. In the absence of such, insulation with sheets of polystyrene or polystyrene is considered cost-effective.

Measures to protect the basement from moisture

Some heaters, such as expanded clay and aerated concrete, require the preparation of laying sites. If such material is poured into the sinuses without proper preparation, it simply absorbs moisture and freezes.

Before starting the warming process itself, a waterproofing barrier of rolled materials should be laid on the outside of the sinuses. Concrete along the perimeter when using bulk insulation is also processed with various mastics based on bitumen or liquid glass. Such measures will not allow the insulation to absorb moisture from the concrete.

Expanded clay pillow

Granules of ordinary expanded clay are often used as a heater not only in their pure form, but also by introducing them directly into the concrete mixture. A lot depends on their quality, let's take the main indicators we need.

The parameter of the general thermal conductivity of expanded clay materials is different, but the average value is 0.07 - 0.16 W / m C, where the smaller parameter exactly corresponds to its brand in terms of its density (M250). I would like to warn you right away that such material is not suitable for warming the blind area, the constant presence of moisture will destroy the granules over time. It's great for keeping basements warm.

We will study what you need to consider when choosing expanded clay:

1. It is necessary to take into account M 250, a rare brand, made only to order. The usual density of the material is from 350 to M 600, respectively, then the coefficient is (from 0.11 to 0.14).
2. The frost resistance of expanded clay and other porous fillers is denoted by the letter F, a rather important indicator - when buying, make sure that the indicator is at least 15 cycles (F15), but it is better to choose a better material.
3. As for the production of work on the insulation itself. Having prepared along the perimeter of the sinus for filling with a width of 200-250 mm, having fully waterproofed, you can fill the space.

During filling, it is necessary to carry out layer-by-layer compaction of the material, every 30-35 cm of the layer, use a rammer. This is especially true with a large amount of insulation, for example, around the basement.

Aerated concrete crumb

Here you can apply different methods. Arrange filling with pieces of aerated concrete, or you can drive it through a crusher, while obtaining a fine-grained powder. Both of them fit.

Some characteristics are interesting when choosing this method of insulation. With a density of 500 and a thickness of 350 mm, the thermal conductivity of the filler will be 0.11-0.13 W / m C, just like expanded clay granules. Although the pricing policy is much better. The fight of blocks can be bought at a reasonable price at any wholesale base of building materials.

Advice! Aerated concrete quickly absorbs moisture, if you decide to choose this particular material, carry out all waterproofing work at a high level. During application, the material must be dry, no more than 28% humidity. Then the service life will be worthy, at least 25 years.

Work with it takes place in the same way as with the previous insulation. Inside the basement, it makes no sense to insulate if you carry out complete activities outside, from the lowest point of the base, to the highest point, to the level of the concrete blind area.

Extruded materials

The use of extruded material for warming the base of the house along the perimeter of the natural environment

In a cold climate, when the ground freezes up to 1.5 - 1.8 measure, there is a need to insulate all concrete around the basement, as well as to make surface insulation of the entire blind area. Expanded polystyrene fits all parameters, but this is an uneconomical option. But the service life is more than 50 years. Its density is 35 kg. per square meter, with a thickness of 50 mm, and the absorption of moisture is less than 3% per cubic meter, per day. Good parameters for warming the basement, semi-basement, plinths and concrete foundation slabs. It is also suitable for warming the blind area. Work with him is carried out as follows:

1. Prime the surface for insulation. Let dry 24 hours.
2. Lubricate the walls with bituminous mastic in 1-2 layers. The putty must dry completely.
3. Sheets are glued (standard size 0.5 x 1 m) in a run-up, on high fixation glue. After 2-3 days, holes are drilled for fungi (a plastic dowel with a cap), the dowels themselves are installed. Consumption of fasteners per 1 m² 7 - 10 pcs.
4. Cover with a layer of mastic, it is possible to lay a special membrane. Backfilling of the sinuses is carried out, with layer-by-layer compaction of the earth. The sheets are installed above the zero mark of the foundation, subsequently sheets of blind area insulation adjoin it. Horizontal insulation under the blind area of ​​concrete is carried out to a width of 1.2 meters.

Important: Basement ventilation is a very important factor. With its improper arrangement, the presence of capillary moisture from inside the basement or semi-basement is inevitable. Insulation of ventilation pipes is also carried out, but already with rolled materials.

When the insulation of the blind area is enough

There are many methods for carrying out such work, there is a more modern one. Make a spray of liquid polystyrene directly on the wall. Deciding to use this method, invite a company that has experience in this area. They will calculate all the ways of warming and choose the best option. They will draw up a project, find suitable material, and carry out all the necessary activities. Provide a guarantee for all work performed.

Based on experience in the middle lane, where the temperature in winter (averaged) does not fall below 20ºC, shallow insulation of foundations is carried out up to 1.2 - 1.5 meters below ground level. If you need to insulate the foundation of the house from the outside, use the option of surface insulation of the blind area.

Such measures are quite enough, because the very temperature of the earth at a depth of 2.5 meters does not fall less than 8º above zero. Based on economic considerations, basement insulation at such a depth is not carried out at all.