The optimum temperature for growing potatoes. Optimal temperature for planting potatoes

Potato is one of the most common vegetables, without which it is difficult to imagine a summer cottage. The ripening period of potatoes depends on many factors. First of all, it is the tuber variety itself, as well as climatic conditions. If the first factor can be influenced, then the second one has to be simply put up with. If the summer turned out to be cold, then the harvest may be poor.

When planting potatoes, it is important to consider the region of residence. In different areas, the time from planting to harvesting the same variety may vary due to differences in climate.

• An early potato that matures approximately 50–61 days after the tubers are planted in the soil.
• The early ripe variety ripens on 66–85 days from the moment of planting in the ground.
• The mid-season variety will ripen 86–95 days after planting.
• Medium-late - from 96 to 115 days, after planting the tubers in the soil.
• The maturation period of late potatoes starts from 115 days.

The growing season may vary up or down. Again, this depends on the weather conditions that prevail in the season. It's impossible to influence it.

What determines the rate of maturation of tubers?

But, even choosing a variety according to the ripening period of tubers, after planting, one cannot be sure that the crop can be obtained exactly by a specific date. Vegetation is influenced by many factors.

Factors that affect the growth rate:

• In what region is the cultivation of vegetables.
• Planted potatoes will grow earlier if tubers are planted in early May.
• Weather.
• The introduction of a large amount of mineral and organic fertilizers.
• The growing season of potatoes is reduced if planted in nutrient-poor soil. On fertile soil, growth does not accelerate, and you can harvest until late autumn.
• The lack of moisture also affects how quickly the tubers grow. If the summer turned out to be dry and there was little rain, then the potato harvesting period is reduced.

If the growing season has been reduced for the last two reasons, then such potatoes will not be as tasty, and will also be poorly stored. Therefore, if possible, it is advisable to regularly water the potatoes (if there is no rain in summer) and, before planting potatoes in open ground, apply mineral and organic fertilizers to the ground. When the tubers ripen on time, they turn out tasty and can be stored for more than one month.

How to speed up the ripening of potatoes?

You can try to speed up the ripening of potatoes after the flowering period so that young potatoes do not have to be dug up in late autumn. This will help those summer residents who are delayed with the landing of planting material. You can also try to increase the growth of potatoes in the event that it turned out to be a cold and rainy summer.

What to do if the bushes have grown strongly and it is impossible to delay harvesting?

• The easiest way is to cut green tops when the planting material has recently begun to sprout, and the bushes have not yet begun to bloom.
• In order for the potatoes to ripen earlier, it is possible to spray the bushes with a solution of copper sulfate 14 days before harvesting. The tool draws moisture from the leaves and the maturity of the tubers comes faster. The tops of the same month begin to become covered with brown spots, curl and dry.
• To speed up the ripening of potatoes, if it turned out to be a long and cold summer, you can use magnesium chlorate. For 1 liter of water, you need to take 25 g, dilute chlorate in water and spray the bushes with it. The stages of potato ripening will then be reduced, and after a while it will be possible to dig it out. If the weather is dry, then the potatoes ripen after spraying already on the 6th day.
• In order for the potatoes to ripen earlier than expected, they can be treated with superphosphate. Spray potatoes after flowering. For 1 liter of warm water 25 g of superphosphate. The time for the procedure is better to choose the evening.
• Tubers ripen faster if they are germinated before planting in the soil. This is easy to do and takes a little time to germinate. Potatoes are germinated in a well-ventilated area. Straw or hay can be laid out on the floor. During the day the temperature should be no more than +15. At night, for full germination, it must be lowered to +7. Potatoes should germinate in 2-4 weeks. After the first roots began to grow on the tubers, they are watered with a solution of sodium chloride, ammonium nitrate and superphosphate (15:15:55 per 10 liters of water). After two days, the tubers need to be watered. This will help speed up the growth when the potatoes are planted in the soil.
• Drying is another way to accelerated growth. The potatoes need to be laid out in one layer (it is not necessary to lay them out so that the sun hits the tubers). After a week and a half, eyes should appear on it. Then you can start landing. Plant dried potatoes in the usual way.

After these procedures, the stages of potato growth will be reduced and then you can safely dig up young potatoes without fear of damaging them in the ground. This issue is especially relevant for those summer residents whose plot is located in a lowland, where water accumulates or when the ground contains a lot of peat and potatoes grow slowly.

When to dig potatoes?

As mentioned earlier, potatoes ripen in different ways. By what signs can you determine that it's time to dig up the crop?

The main signs of ripening potatoes:

• The main sign by which it can be determined that the potato has ripened is dried tops. In early ripe varieties, this may begin at the end of July. After all the tops of the grown potatoes have dried up, you can start harvesting.
• The second important thing to pay attention to is the weather. It is better to dig potatoes in dry and sunny weather. As a rule, potatoes ripen by the end of August. Therefore, it is better not to delay until autumn and do it before the rains. If the shade of the vegetative organs of plants (leaves, stems) is green, then you should think about artificially accelerating ripening.
• Also, ripening depends on sowing. If the potato was planted at the end of May, then it will not be necessary to dig it out until September. This can be determined by the phases of development of the bushes. If the haulm is still green in August, it should take several weeks before it dries up.

You can dig up a potato crop at a temperature not lower than +17 degrees. Then during storage the potatoes will not turn black and not deteriorate. The most unfavorable time is the morning hours, when frosts have already come. If you dig up a potato at such a time, it will quickly wither and it will not be possible to eat it.

After harvesting, it is necessary to collect all the tops and weeds. If this is not done, then on the next goal the plot may become overgrown with weeds and then it will take a long time to remove it from the garden.

When digging potatoes, you can immediately select the best and largest tubers for further planting. They need to be left for several days in the sun so that solanine begins to accumulate in the potatoes. The peel should take on a greenish tint. Such tubers will be stored longer and rodents will not spoil them. Can you grow them next year? good harvest.

If space permits, then before you put the potatoes in the basement, you need to hold them for some time in the sun. In this way, you can kill all pathogens, as well as increase keeping quality.

Dried potatoes should be scattered in bags, after throwing out spoiled and gnawed tubers. Store potatoes preferably out of direct sunlight so that they do not germinate. The room should be well ventilated, the humidity in the cellar should be high. Observing all the rules of planting and storage, you can eat potatoes all year round.

To get a plentiful and tasty harvest, it is enough for a gardener to observe simple rules planting and caring for potatoes. The temperature of planting potatoes can be different. It depends on the climate in your area, the variety of potatoes and the condition of the land. Optimum temperature soil for growing potatoes 15 degrees. If the temperature drops below 15 degrees, then the planting may not germinate. Tubers should be planted at a depth of about 10-15 cm, when the average daily temperature fluctuates around 8 degrees.

Experienced gardeners recommend hardening the tubers at a temperature of 5-7 degrees before planting. In this case, when cold weather sets in, potatoes easily adapt to frost. The temperature and humidity of the soil is largely dependent on weather conditions. If it rains in the region, then the planting of tubers should be postponed. The term of planting tubers has a significant impact on the quality of the crop and potatoes. If you give preference to early varieties, then they have the advantage that pests will soon begin to eat plants, and earlier varieties already have immunity.

For planting, it is very important to observe not only the temperature of the earth, but also the moisture content of the soil. Planting in too wet soil can cause bacteria to grow. If you plant the tubers early, then it is likely that they will freeze. Some gardeners focus on folk omens and plant tubers during the budding of birch or the end of the flowering period of bird cherry.

The landing time greatly affects the processing of landings in the summer. Each variety must be planted in one place in the shortest possible time, or treatment with chemicals from diseases and pests will become ineffective. Such treatments are always done in certain phases of development and each potato bush must correspond to this age at the time of treatment. For potatoes, only late planting does no harm, because positive temperatures have already settled down, and the bulk of pests have already managed to attack early plantings.

Please note that the tubers are planted deep in the soil, so the potatoes get enough moisture.

So that the landings do not freeze, they must be constantly hilled. When the soil is loosened, the optimum temperature in the soil is set independently and does not allow the sprouts to stop developing.

To get a good harvest, the soil must meet the following requirements:

• For fertile soil, it is necessary to receive 250-300 mm of precipitation for the entire growing season
• The maximum soil moisture is not more than 75-90%
• The soil must be evenly moistened

planting potatoes

Early varieties can be planted at the end of April, when the weather is stable and warm. Most gardeners plant tubers when the optimum and plus temperature for the earth comes. Most often this period falls from May 7 to 10. When choosing a landing date, be guided by soil temperature. At a depth of 8-10 cm, the soil should warm up to 6-8 degrees. In a place where the soil is often waterlogged and compacted, a high ridge of 10-15 cm should be made. It is necessary to plant tubers in ridges at a distance of 70 cm. This measure will protect plantings from excess water and improve heat transfer.

If the soil is soft, then it is recommended to plant tubers 10-12 cm deep. With loamy soils by 8-10 cm. On sandy soil in the southern regions, ridges are not practiced. Early varieties, unlike late ones, have smaller vegetative organs and straight stems, so they are planted in rows with a distance of 25-30 cm from each other. Tubers of medium and late-ripening varieties are planted at a distance of 30-35 cm from each other. When the soil temperature is above 30 degrees, the growth of tubers slows down.

If the abnormal heat lasts for several days, then this can lead to damage to the tubers, from which it is difficult to obtain a full-fledged crop. Before planting potato tubers, it is necessary to study the weather report for the next week. If constant rains and intense heat are not expected, then tubers can be planted.

How to understand that the soil is ready for planting tubers?

For the land that is suitable for planting potatoes, it is characteristic that it crumbles, and does not stick together. The temperature of the earth can be measured with an ordinary thermometer. If you have planted potato tubers, but frosts are suddenly promised, then it is recommended to cover the plantings with special material at night. It can be plastic wrap, thick fabric or a haystack.

Tubers grow well in nutritious soils. If there was little snow in winter, and the spring turned out to be dry, then there is little moisture in the soil. For dry land, potatoes are not suitable. In this case, it is recommended to moisten and fertilize the soil before planting.

Suitable temperature for normal planting growth

For full growth and development, you need to adhere to the recommended temperatures. The tops grow at an air temperature of 5 degrees, and the maximum increase occurs at 20 degrees. If daytime temperatures exceed 30 degrees, then the growth of tops slows down. The leaves are also frost sensitive.

When planting an early variety, if it is -2 degrees outside, the plant will turn black. Much attention should be paid to the place of planting potatoes. A suitable site should be located on a hill, preferably on the south or east side. In the lowered area, cold air accumulates at night and in the morning, plantings may be subject to frost.

Potato blooms at a temperature of 18-19 degrees. If it is warmer outside, then the buds fall off. flowers economic importance Dont Have. For a bountiful harvest, it doesn't matter how many flowers the potatoes have. Basically, all varieties of potatoes form tubers at a soil temperature of 15-20 degrees. The air temperature at the same time fluctuates around 20-25 degrees. When the weather is different, the cultivation of potatoes slows down. In very hot and dry climates, potatoes should be watered more frequently so that the plants do not starve.

A key factor for high potato yields is systematic watering during the growing season. It is important to keep the soil evenly moist from emergence until the end of the season. Do not allow it to dry out completely, which can lead to unintended re-growth during watering and the formation of growths on the tubers. Consider what temperature the potatoes can withstand and the subtleties of mulching.

The culture prefers cool but frost-free conditions. The ideal temperature for growing the product, depending on the stages of the growing season, is as in spring: 8-25 ° C.

The origin of the crop from cool mountainous regions has implications for the crop's agrometeorological responses. Climatic features, physiological environment extremely important for the production of high yields With good quality tubers, under conditions specific to each particular site.

It's no secret that the right climate provides a large number of tubers from the bush.

The potato has a fibrous root system, at best no more than 60 cm deep. As a result, the plant often cannot make full use of nutrients and moisture within the soil profile.

What temperature above zero can potatoes withstand

It is best to plant when the soil temperature is 7-10°C, daytime is in the range of 18°C, night is 12-18°C. Optimum soil condition for root growth- from 10 to 35 ° C, the most active development occurs at 15 -20 ° C. The conditions are similar for the development of stolons.

For leaf growth- 7 to 30 ° C, the best mode is 20 to 25 ° C. Tuber emergence is caused by a short photoperiod and includes growth hormones. The cooler the soil temperature, between 15 and 20°C, the faster the tubers will form and in greater numbers.

The process is favored by low levels of nitrogen and high levels of sucrose in the plant. High temperatures (35-40°C) reduce and actually stop tuber formation. Also, the long day length delays the onset of tuber development.

Too high temperatures adversely affect crop growth

1. Seedlings elongate slightly at 9°C, very slowly at 6°C.
2. At temperatures below 6 ° C, development practically stops.
3. Leaving the tubers in the soil at 1-2°C for several days causes severe damage that affects the normal growth of the plant.

Potato prefers well-drained fertile soil high content organic matter, with an acidity level of 5.0 to 5.5. As the soil becomes more alkaline, crop size increases, but so does the incidence of scabs, a condition that affects the skin but not the nutritional value of the product.

The best temperatures for harvesting and processing tubers are considered to be between .12 and 18°C. Under cold and heat stress, when below 5°C and over 25°C, they are susceptible to disease, risk of microbial rot.

What is the storage temperature

The potato storage area must meet the temperature conditions so that the product remains healthy and the natural decomposition process is slowed down.

It is extremely important that it be dark, well ventilated, for long-term storage of the seed variety, a regime of about 4 ° C was maintained.

For short term storage, followed by cooking, an environment in which 7-10 ° C is preferred.

Storing for a long time at temperatures below 4 ° C turns potato starch into sugar, which changes the taste and culinary qualities. It acquires a bitter taste and the cause of this phenomenon is an enzyme called invertase.

Once starch is converted to sugar, it causes a potentially dangerous chemical reaction when cooking. The sugars when baked or fried combine with the amino acid asparagine present in the tubers to produce the chemical acrylamide, representing a genotoxic carcinogen.

In an adequate environment in commercial warehouses, potatoes can be stored for ten to twelve months. At home period is only a few weeks. If green areas containing glycoalkaloids develop on the tubers, they must be pruned before using the product.

Green spots on tubers should not be allowed to be eaten.

How to store in a vegetable store, cellar, refrigerator

Optimal conditions for temperature, humidity, aeration, oxidation state are the most important factors for storing potatoes. Being a living organism, its quality decreases due to the loss of moisture and physiological decay. The deterioration is directly related to the storage temperature.

Vegetable store

Tubers must be cured at 7-15°C and 85-95% relative humidity for two weeks before being placed in storage. During the curing process, thickening of the skin and healing of small cuts occurs, which minimizes the penetration of pathogens.

The fewer open wounds on the tuber, the lower the risk of infection during storage. Soft, shriveled, damaged by insects, slugs, wireworms, and other pests tubers are sorted out.

Most pathogens transported to storage with tubers increase population growth logarithmically at 5-26°C.

1. Store potatoes in a dark place at 4-8°C and humidity of 80-90%. Even though it loses moisture through respiration, low humidity is the main cause of shrinkage during storage. In good conditions, the product will keep for up to six months.
2. At temperatures above 8°C, tubers germinate in two to three months.
3. When stored at temperature below 4°C potatoes have a sweet taste. But the normal taste can be restored if left for a few days before use, at room temperature.

Potatoes must not be allowed to freeze.

Cellar

Most modern houses there are several places with good conditions for storing vegetables. The ideal place is a cellar in which the tubers are piled in heaps. It is better to store in several small piles.

In piled potatoes, the bottom layer is often damaged due to the weight of the upper layers being pressed down. In addition, ventilation does not reach the center and the product becomes very hot, which reduces quality and shortens shelf life.

Storage of potatoes in the cellar - classic version culture storage

Can put the tubers in small plastic buckets, which are overlaid with a layer of wet sand, boxes or baskets. Paper or perforated bags work well. The use of racks on which tubers are stacked ensures good air circulation.

Every effort should be made to keep the potato storage environment cool, dry, and with adequate moisture levels. This is due to the prevention of moisture loss, the development of rot, the excessive growth of seedlings, the accumulation of highly concentrated sugars in potatoes.

Fridge

Storage in the refrigerator(usually at 2 -5° C) undesirable. Cold temperatures promote the conversion of starch to sugar, resulting in a sweetish taste and discolouration of the product during cooking. To weaken this effect, warming the potatoes, before cooking, at room temperature for some time.

The perforated plastic or paper bags in which the potatoes are placed provide a medium to extend shelf life in the refrigerator.

Potatoes are not washed before storage. A thin layer of earth protects the culture. Tubers should not be stored near apples and other fruits, which release ethylene gas to promote germination.

Losses are mainly caused by processes such as respiration, change chemical composition And physical property tubers, damage at extreme temperatures. All mentioned losses depend on storage conditions.

Air circulation, atmosphere composition, relative importance (85-95%) is well controlled in the vegetable store, which is pre-treated with germination inhibitors and equipped with mechanical ventilation.

What sub-zero temperature can the culture withstand, and at what freezes

Direct frost damage occurs when ice crystals form within the protoplasm of plant cells (intracellular freezing). The degree of damage depends mainly on how quickly the temperature drops. At a slower pace, ice formation is extracellular and the plant has a chance to recover.

The saturation vapor pressure over ice is lower than that of water. As a result of extracellular ice formation, water evaporates, passes through semi-permeable cell membranes and is deposited on ice crystals outside the cells.

When water is removed from the cells, the concentration of the solute increases, which reduces the chance of freezing. But as the ice continues to grow, the cells dry out more and more. In damaged plants, extracellular ice crystals are much larger than the surrounding dead cells, causing secondary stress to the surrounding cells.

The culture does not withstand severe frosts. The normal planting depth in the ground from 3 to 8 centimeters is able to prevent the potatoes from freezing at 0, -2 ° C. Seedlings are damaged, but potatoes, due to the development of dormant cells, form new shoots that replace the frozen upper part.

With prolonged exposure to the freezing effect the plant dies completely. In an adult plant, the processes of biosynthesis (assimilation) stop at 2-4 ° C, as a result of which the tops turn brown. The plant freezes at minus temperatures of -2 ° C.

The slope of the ground affects the severity of frost. Potatoes growing at high levels experience warmer temperatures and less frost damage. Conversely, planted in a lowland, it falls into microclimatic conditions known as frost pockets that collect cold air.

Any lowland creates microclimate conditions, so you should be careful to plant a crop in such conditions.

At what temperature will potatoes freeze in the ground in spring?

Potatoes are planted in April, when the ground is thawed, dried and warm enough. When planted in soil with a temperature of less than 6 ° C, some of the tubers may rot and die. unexpected late frosts can damage seedlings when the green foliage turns black. In the ground, the potato will not suffer, but only if the upper part survives. Early plantations exposed to long periods of cold weather die for other reasons:

• cold and wet conditions delay germination and cause seed crushing;
• light frosts, around 0, -2, cause little damage to potato plants, but the difference between a light frost and a hard frost is only a few degrees;
• temperatures -2.5, -3.5 cause serious damage to potatoes.

Mulching potatoes

Potatoes grow best in rich loose soil. It helps to create using organic mulch. Reasons for using mulch include retaining moisture in the soil, improving fertility and health, reducing weed growth, and increasing the visual appeal of an area.

What are the benefits of being under mulch for potatoes?

During hot summer periods, mulching is a factor in the survival of the plant. The practice of mulching has a huge impact on soil moisture consistency. Potatoes are particularly susceptible to excessive temperatures and irregular soil moisture.

A good thick layer of organic mulch helps keep it in optimal condition in both hot and cold weather.

By the beginning of the growing season mulch keeps soil warm which is especially important at night. As the potato grows, it stabilizes the temperature and moisture of the soil and prevents the growth of weeds.

The mulch effect is complex. It forms a layer between the soil and the atmosphere, preventing sunlight from reaching the surface, thereby reducing evaporation. On the other hand, it can prevent water from entering the soil by absorbing it.

About Proper Mulching: To maximize the benefits and minimize the negative impacts, mulching is more likely to be applied in late spring or early summer when soil temperatures are rising but moisture content is still relatively high. Unlike soil it is not rich in nutrients, so it is better to feed it with organic fertilizer based on fish emulsion.

How to plant potatoes under grass mulch

cut grass for mulch best mixed with tree leaves or coarse compost to ensure aeration and decomposition of the material without rotting. Freshly cut grass can damage the plant, decaying leads to a destructive accumulation of heat, blocking the circulation of air and moisture, so it is better to dry it before use.

Comparison of mulch, cut grass and straw

cut grass	Straw
Mixed with dried leaf litter makes good compost with a healthy balance of nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; this drastically reduces the need for artificial fertilizers).	Controls humidity and reduces high-temperature stresses of the plant, but are more vulnerable to frost and wind.
Decomposes quickly due to the correct ratio of carbon and nitrogen, which also helps to avoid problems such as mold, an unpleasant smell of decay.	Controls weeds, but at the same time there is a possibility of contamination by seeds (weeds).
Fresh grass has a relatively high nitrate content, and most of it returns to the soil. Do not apply too thick layer, since the cut grass decomposes into slimy cellulose, which is very hot and can burn the plant.	Mostly carbon. It dries up nitrogen from the soil and therefore should be mixed with grass, manure, compost to minimize losses.
Microbes can suck nitrogen and others nutrients from the soil in the process of decomposition, for this reason, a little fertilizer is added to it, compensating for the loss.	Ideal environment for slugs, attracts mice, voles.

The benefit of any mulch is higher yields and easier potato picking.

Growing potatoes under mulch

Any biodegradable material will work. But the most preferred method for growing high-yielding potatoes is freshly cut grass or straw mulch. They keep the soil cool and moist, keeping out the Colorado potato beetle and other crawling insects.

Potato needs a thick layer unlike other vegetable crops. Every few weeks it is checked for gaps and another layer is added.

To ensure the best results for growing potatoes with mulching, you must:

1. Loosen the soil well.
2. Prepare the landing area. Dig a furrow about 10 centimeters deep and 25 cm wide four to six weeks before the last frost.
3. Thoroughly mix the garden compost (it prevent soil compaction after landing).
4. Plant seed tubers cut side down (or whole) with eyes pointing up, about 30 cm apart. Whole tubers are pressed into the soil about 8 cm, cut - 2 cm deep.
5. Fill the furrow with 15 cm of clean straw.
6. When the plant breaks through the cover litter, add another layer 10 cm thick.

Water as needed, keeping the soil evenly moist but not soggy. There is no need to remove the mulch.

Watering potatoes

Water is a vital ingredient in potato production, essential for both yield and quality. Irrigation early in the growing season minimizes common scab, stimulates bush growth, and maximizes tubers.

At the end of the season helps to harvest with minimal losses. But water must be applied in sufficient quantities and at the right time to achieve a good harvest.

Irrigation Features

Regional climatic conditions, weather, soil conditions affect the choice of planting time.

The amount of water available for yield depends on the depth of rooting (deep roots are drawn from a large supply of soil water). This factor must be taken into account when assessing whether how much water in the soil is available to the crop for use, the structure of which changes as it develops during the growing season.

For the root system of culture, the optimal depth is about 70 cm.

The depth of root formation of potatoes may vary, but optimal is usually 700 mm. Compacted soil reduces the ability of roots to find water in the soil, and consequently affects recommendations for irrigation planning.

Moderately acidic soil is preferred, but this is not essential as potatoes are adapted to a wide range. A furrow is dug 10 centimeters deep, where the tuber is placed with the buds pointing upwards and covered with soil.

If necessary, fertilizer can be scattered on top. So, when growing potatoes in an alkaline environment, sulfur is used after planting, which maximizes germination and eliminates common scab.

Do I need to water potatoes when planting?

Potato - moisture loving culture, but when planting it is not watered. It is preferable to plant in an open and well-lit position, in fertile, evenly moist, well-drained soil.

The need for water is provided by the mother tuber. On the contrary, additional watering can cause rot.

It is believed that overwatering can cause rotting of the tuber chosen for growing potatoes.

When to Water After Planting

Potatoes need a steady, seasonal supply of water, but this is important 6-10 weeks after planting when the crop is developing tubers. Supplying the crop with water is usually started after germination.

Watering tips for a good harvest

Reliable watering schedule, cool soil temperatures provide evenly formed tubers. Both over-saturation with moisture and lack of water affect yields, endangering plant health.

The general rules are:

• to water the potatoes once a week, taking into account possible rainfall, big amount water that moistens the soil about 30 cm deep (the minimum consumption is 50 liters per 1 square meter (or about 3-4 liters per bush), but in fact it all depends on the characteristics of the soil);
• a young plant is watered more often - once every 4-5 days;
• increase the frequency, once every 2-3 days, when tubers start to form(this happens almost simultaneously with the flowering of the plant);
• by the end of the growing season, when the tops turn yellow and begin to die off, watering is stopped, which will allow the tubers to dry out before harvesting.

Uneven watering causes the appearance of growths and cracks on the tubers. This is due to the fact that with insufficient water, they do not develop, but with subsequent abundant irrigation, a second (new) growth occurs.

How often do you water potatoes outdoors?

Potatoes need a lot of moisture, especially during the flowering period, when tubers begin to form. If Mother Nature is reluctant to provide the required water, then some type of irrigation system may be needed (drip irrigation has a big advantage).

Which open ground is better: Loamy soil is considered ideal for potatoes. Its structure retains moisture well, and it is sometimes better to replace watering with loosening (it is sometimes called dry watering).

Watering in the heat: how often to water

In dry times, the plant Recommended to be watered at least once a week. It is better to do this in the evening hours and in two doses. Occasional abundant watering is sometimes better than insufficient frequent watering, which moistens only the surface layer of the soil, stimulating shallow rooting.

After watering, you can loosen the soil. Brings its effect and irrigation.

Loosening the soil after watering will have a positive effect on the growth of the bush

How to water so that the tubers do not cover scab and other ailments

It is preferable to water the plant in the early morning hours. The afternoon sun evaporates the water. A plant that stays wet at night is susceptible to disease.

warm, wet foliage encourages fungal growth and weakens the structure of the plant as a whole. In addition, watering should be directed to the roots where it is needed most, and not to the top of the plant.

How many times to water potatoes per season

The moisture requirement in April-September varies depending on factors such as climatic conditions and soil type. Watering at certain stages of growth:

1. Planting and watering up to 30 days: Avoid watering before emergence if the soil is dry before planting (pre-irrigation should always be considered). Young plants (after germination) receive the first watering after about 5 days.
2. 30-60 days: Moisture is critical for vegetative growth and tuber formation.
3. 60-90 days: proper and thorough watering is necessary for the growth of tubers.
4. 90-120 days: the tops turn yellow and die. Watering about a week before harvest can still be continued, but in moderation.

The tops on the bush turn yellow 3-4 months after the first shoots

How to understand that you need watering

The rate of absorption of moisture by crops is very dependent on the weather. Potato is a shallow rooted plant, sensitive to even small water deficits (in the root zone). Whenever it is exposed to moisture deficiencies, growth rates are reduced.

To encourage tuber development, it is important to keep soil temperatures below 25°C. high temperatures many of the initiated tubers are reabsorbed and the plants end up with only two or three tubers.

The soil is stored with water with heavy rainfall after irrigation irrigation. Well-structured porous soil, like loam, is capable of passing up to 100 mm of water per hour. Compacted heavy soil (clay) is limited to 5 mm per hour.

Signs of excess and lack of moisture

The consequences of the practice of improper watering lead to the fact that the plant is subjected to stress, which continues for several days after the problem has been eliminated. Excess moisture promotes decay, increases the risk of disease. On the contrary, the lack of moisture when the soil dries out completely stops the formation of tubers or leads to the development of various defects.

As with ordinary flowers, lack or excess of moisture can adversely affect the plant. It is important to follow the watering schedule

Potatoes are one of the healthiest vegetable crops. It grows easily, requires little preparation, little care and even enjoyment at harvest time.

What are the conditions for growing potatoes

All about growing potatoes

Potato- a plant of relatively cool summer. The following temperatures are most favorable for the development of potatoes at its different stages: for the germination of eyes - + 5-7 ° C. A full-fledged growth of the above-ground mass is possible only with sufficient development of the roots, which are formed, as a rule, at a temperature not lower than +7°C. At a lower temperature, the planted tubers lie in the soil for a long time without forming a root system. At the same time, due to the available nutrients, new tubers can form on them without the appearance of tops. This phenomenon is often observed when potatoes are planted in cold, waterlogged soil with temperatures below +7°C or, conversely, in too dry soil at temperatures above +25°C.

seedlings potatoes thrive best in cool, damp weather. During this period, young plants are sensitive to heat and dry winds. The most favorable temperature for leaf growth is +15-20°C. The maximum growth of tops goes at a temperature of +17-22°C. Lowering the temperature to +1-1.5°C and high relative humidity lead to the death of plants.

The most intense tuberization occurs when the soil warms up to +15–19°C. For tuber growth early varieties favorable temperature + 15-17 ° C, for mid-ripening and mid-late varieties + 19 ° C. At soil temperatures below +6 and above +23-25°C, the growth of tubers is delayed, and at +29-30°C, tuberization usually stops. In this case, watering is necessary.

Watering potatoes

Potatoes are very demanding on moisture. At the beginning of germination and in the first period of leaf formation, the need for moisture is small, the plant tolerates dry weather well. With the onset of budding and flowering, the need for moisture increases dramatically. Lack of it during this period leads to wilting of the leaves, which reduces the yield. At the end of the growing season, when the tops wither, potatoes require significantly less moisture than in previous periods.

In warm dry weather, by the end of the growing season, a strong thick peel is formed on the tubers, which protects them from mechanical damage during harvesting and ensures better preservation in the winter. Rainy weather delays the ripening of tubers, they form a very tender peel. Such tubers are easily damaged during harvesting and are poorly stored.

Waterlogging of the soil in some years leads to rotting of tubers due to lack of oxygen. To have enough oxygen in the soil, it is necessary to loosen it.

Potatoes are photophilous. In the shade, with a lack of light, the stems stretch, yellowing of the tops, a decrease in the yield of tubers, and a deterioration in their taste.

To obtain high yields, it is necessary to correctly position the rows in relation to the light. When the rows are directed from north to south, the plants are more evenly illuminated during the day than when they are directed from west to east.

Potato fertilizer

For the growth and development of potatoes, the presence of minerals in the soil is necessary: ​​nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, as well as trace elements: boron, molybdenum, cobalt, etc. On most soils, potatoes experience the maximum need for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. With insufficient nitrogen nutrition, weak growth and branching of plant stems are observed. With an excess of nitrogen in the soil, excessive development of plant tops occurs, to the detriment of tubers, maturation is delayed, and the susceptibility of tubers to diseases increases.

Consequently, both excess nitrogen and its deficiency in the soil are harmful to the plant.

How to choose a place in the garden for growing potatoes?

Potatoes can grow in any soil, but higher yields are obtained in deep, loose and well-fertilized soil. Soddy-podzolic, loamy and sandy loamy soils with a slightly acid reaction of the soil solution (pH 5.5-6.5) are well suited.

If the area for planting potatoes is located in low-lying places with heavy clay soils, where water stagnates and does not dry out for a long time in the spring and slowly warms up, then such soils can be used only after their cultivation - the introduction of manure, sand, peat, ash, etc.

For early potatoes, plots of land on the southern or southwestern slopes, protected from the north and northeast by forests or buildings, are most suitable.

Potatoes should not be planted in places where they were grown in previous years. The causative agents of many diseases and pests can overwinter in the soil on plant debris or remaining tubers, therefore, when planting in an old place, tubers of a new crop can be severely affected by these diseases and pests.

Where can't you plant potatoes?

You can not plant potatoes where tomatoes, peppers, eggplants grew, as they are close in origin and have common diseases. On the site, they try to place potatoes after cabbage, beets, cucumber, lettuce, spinach, carrots. If the conditions do not allow changing the area for planting potatoes every year, then in this case it is possible to eliminate the negative impact of permanent planting to some extent. To do this, it is necessary to fertilize the site well, apply peat, manure, composts, sow green manure and change planting material more often. In dry weather, water the plants regularly. If you are developing a new site, then with proper processing and care of plants, you can get a high yield of potatoes even without fertilizing, because. virgin lands are better for potatoes. It is only important that the site is well drained and the depth ground water was no higher than 40-60 cm from the soil surface. If the humus layer is small, then it is desirable to add peat, soddy soil to increase the moisture capacity and fertility of the soil.

In damp areas, drainage grooves are arranged to drain excess water, which displaces air from the soil, as a result of which the roots and tubers flooded with water suffocate and rot.

What soil is best for growing potatoes

Potatoes make high demands on the looseness and air permeability of the soil. It is best to dig up the soil on the site for planting potatoes from autumn, leaving it in layers for the winter, without leveling it with a harrow or rake. Also, since autumn, it would be good to dig drainage grooves to drain excess autumn rain and spring melt water from the site.

On heavy loamy soils, it is useful to make ridges in autumn. This ensures that the soil dries out earlier in the spring. In addition, it contributes to better snow retention, the destruction of weed seeds by frost, as well as pest larvae.

In the spring, the site is leveled with a rake or a harrow, and then it is dug up or plowed again, but smaller (by 2-5 cm) than during autumn processing, so as not to turn the weed seeds onto the soil surface. All work on spring soil preparation for potatoes should be done in a timely manner and with high quality. It is especially necessary to ensure that the soil has normal moisture, crumbles well, and does not smear, since when processing waterlogged soil, unloosened layers are formed, and when dried up, lumps are formed. In lumpy soil, the tubers are deformed and lose their commercial qualities.

Pre-planting treatment of arable peat soils usually comes down to shallow loosening and harrowing, to leveling the surface, and the destruction of weed seedlings before planting potatoes.

The large need for nutrients in potatoes necessitates the introduction of increased doses of fertilizers for this crop.

Organic fertilizer for potatoes

The main source of nutrient replenishment for potatoes are different kinds organic fertilizers, and primarily manure, peat-dung and other composts.

The best organic fertilizer for potatoes is manure, especially peat manure obtained by using peat for livestock bedding. The average dose of manure for potatoes, as well as other organic fertilizers, is 5-10 kg per 1 m 2 of the plot area.

On loamy soils, organic fertilizers are applied in the fall. In the spring, only rotted manure can be given. On light sandy and sandy loamy soils, organic fertilizers are applied mainly in spring.

The fertilizer is spread evenly over the soil surface and then dug up or plowed. It is impossible to leave manure or composts on the soil surface for a long time, as they quickly dry out and lose their value.

If there is not enough organic fertilizer, it is better to apply them in the furrow or in the hole at the time of planting. This makes it possible to reduce the dose of fertilizers by two to three times and get an increase in the yield of tubers no less than from the scattered application of large doses. Nutrients of fertilizers with a local method of application are less susceptible to absorption by the soil and are used by the plant to a greater extent, since they are located in the zone of development of the main mass of roots.

Clean, well-ventilated and decomposed peat can also be used to cultivate garden plots. However, its nutritional value for plants is several times less than that of peat composts, mixtures of peat with slurry. Mixtures of peat with bird droppings are applied under potatoes mainly in autumn.

Silt as a fertilizer can be used in its pure form, but in this case it must be aired during the summer to reduce the content of harmful oxide compounds. An effective organic fertilizer is sapropel, which accumulates in large quantities in reservoirs.

Chicken manure is also a very valuable organic fertilizer. The application rate of fresh raw manure should not exceed 20-40 kg per 10 m 2 .

Green manure crops, the green mass of which is used for fertilizer, can serve as a significant additional source of organic fertilizers. Among them are oilseed radish, spring rapeseed, white mustard, and Sarepta mustard. All of them belong to the cabbage family, have a short growing season, tolerate autumn frosts well. They are cultivated in areas after early harvested crops (early potatoes, greens, radishes, etc.), the seeds are sown to a depth of 2-3 cm. The seeding rate is 200-300 g per hundred square meters. These crops are plowed into the soil in late autumn. It has been established that green fertilizers contribute to an increase in the starch content of tubers and a decrease in morbidity.

Manure and composts contain all the nutrients needed by plants. However, organic fertilizers decompose slowly, and applied before planting and at planting, they do not immediately become available to the plant. In the initial period of growth and development of potatoes, these fertilizers are used poorly. In order to provide plants with a sufficient amount of nutrients in the earliest period of life, in addition to organic fertilizers, mineral fertilizers are applied, which contain nutrients in an easily digestible form.

Do you need mineral fertilizers for growing potatoes?

The effect of mineral fertilizers on the growth and development of potatoes on different soils is not the same. On sandy and sandy loamy soils with a low humus content, higher tuber yield increases are obtained from the use of nitrogen and potassium fertilizers. On chernozems and gray forest soils, the yield increases especially when nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers are used. Plants develop especially well when a complete mineral fertilizer is applied, which provides potatoes not only with nitrogen, but also with phosphorus and potassium. With the joint application of organic and mineral fertilizers in the soil, the correct ratio of nutrients is established, an uninterrupted supply of potatoes with nutrients is ensured throughout the entire growing season.

You should know that both a lack of nutrients and an excess of them are equally harmful to potatoes. With an excess of nitrogen, the potato goes into the tops without forming tubers.

Complete mineral fertilizer is usually used in the spring for digging or plowing a plot in the form of superphosphate, potassium chloride and ammonium nitrate, 30 g each per 1 m 2. Complex fertilizers (nitrophoska), containing all three types of nutrients, are applied at the rate of 60-90 g per 1 sq. meter.

Currently, the most accessible to the population are such mineral fertilizers as ammonium nitrate (1-2 kg per 100 m 2), urea (urea) (1-1.5 kg per 100 m 2 double superphosphate (5-10 kg per 100 m 2), potassium chloride (2-4 kg per 100 m 2), nitroammophoska (3-4 kg per 100 m 2) and a number of others.

For the effective use of fertilizers, it is necessary to take into account the specific conditions of potato cultivation (fertility, mechanical composition of the soil, moisture supply, etc.) and, in accordance with them, specify the doses.

With insufficient fertilization before planting and during planting, they are added to top dressing. Top dressing with nitrogen should be carried out as early as possible, at a plant height of 10-12 cm. The introduction of nitrogen at a later date leads to the non-ripening of tubers and a decrease in their quality.

Top dressing with potash fertilizers can be carried out at a later date. Phosphate fertilizers are less effective in top dressing. Before precipitation, the feeding of potatoes with mineral fertilizers and ash gives a good effect.

Even without delving into statistics, we can say with 100% certainty that potatoes are a popular product that is grown everywhere, despite the striking difference in conditions - from the damp, cool Northwest to the hot steppes of southern Russia. And this is only in the European part of the Russian Federation.

The widespread practice of planting potatoes for the May holidays has only one explanation - combined days off are the best suited for this. planting potatoes from Far East to the Baltic in these 3-4 days - not the best choice: in the southern regions, the earth has already lost winter moisture, and to the north it has not yet warmed up.

Soil temperature is the determining factor that is easiest to focus on. The rest - structure, humidity, breathability, are somehow tied to temperature.

There is no exact time for planting potatoes, even for a specific area. The only true guideline for the start of spring field work is the maturation of the soil. It is necessary to choose those few days when the soil has warmed up enough, but has not yet lost its supply of winter moisture.

Experienced summer residents know that the yield and quality of the crop depends on the timing of sowing potatoes. There is a simple explanation for early planting of tubers:

1. Early planting gives an early harvest. Nobody canceled the growing season, and you can gradually feast on early young potatoes already 40 days after planting.
2. Early planting dates are the best prevention of various potato viral diseases. It has been scientifically proven that viral diseases on garden crops are spread by sucking insects, in particular aphids. By the time of the mass summer of aphids, potato bushes have time to get stronger and become resistant to many diseases.
3. The earlier the potato is planted, the higher its yield, which is confirmed by statistics.

Dependence of potato yield on planting dates (North-Western Federal District of the Russian Federation)

Note:

Traditionally, summer residents calculate the yield of potatoes in buckets.

• 100% means that 1 bucket of potatoes yielded a crop - 1 bucket;
• 600% - 6 buckets of potatoes were obtained from 1 bucket, which is considered the norm for the region.

In other regions, only the dates in the 1st column differ, the trend continues: the maximum yield is observed with early planting.

Potato planting dates - how not to make a mistake

It is also impossible to rush with early planting of tubers: it is completely pointless to plant potatoes in frozen ground. It is necessary to take into account the main factors that affect the timing, and find a middle ground.

The weather is the weakest link in making plans. The forecast for 1-2 weeks before the intended landing should be monitored. Sometimes you have to completely rebuild carefully constructed plans - no one will plant in rain and mud.

Weather conditions are a decisive factor in the "maturation" of the soil. The soil is “ripe” and ready for planting vegetables when the required moisture and temperature are established.

Agronomists are unanimous in their opinion that it makes sense to plant potatoes only when the soil temperature at a depth of 10-12 cm is +7...8°C. Experienced summer residents know that such a temperature of the upper layer of soil is set when the average daily air temperature does not fall below + 8 ° C.

Soil temperature and potato cultivation

This lower threshold is like "absolute zero" for tubers - starting from a temperature of + 7 ° C, potato roots begin to germinate and actively work. If the temperature is lower (combined with high humidity), there is a high chance that the potatoes will simply rot. In the case when the bed did not have time to warm up, you can use a life hack.

As a last resort, germinated tubers can be planted in cold (3 ... 7 ° С) ground.

Potato sprouts withstand temperatures starting from +3°C - slowly, but still developing. The risk is justified if warming is expected in the near future.

It is also undesirable to delay the planting of tubers. Well-warmed and dry soil does not contribute to the rooting of potato sprouts. In the absence of soil moisture, the plant is left with only a supply of water in the tuber to form a bush.

Recall that the mass of a standard seed tuber does not exceed 100 g - it contains no more than 50 ml of water. There can be no question of a full-fledged potato harvest without high-quality watering.

Soil structure and warm-up time

Within one garden plot, not like a whole region, the soil map can vary significantly. How quickly the bed warms up and ripens for planting potatoes depends on the mechanical composition of the soil.

1. Light soils, sandy and sandy loam, quickly warm up and very soon lose their water supply: literally and figuratively, "water goes into the sand."
2. Soils of medium density, light and medium loam, are the most successful option for growing garden crops. The bed warms up quickly and retains a supply of winter melt water for a long time.
3. Heavy loam and clay complicate the agricultural technique of growing potatoes, since the soil warms up and ripens slowly. This is not critical, since preparatory operations (cutting ridges, etc.) help to cope with the problem.

The presence of clay in the composition makes the soil moisture-intensive. The silicates that make up clay chemically bind water molecules. The heat capacity of the soil increases - the bed warms up much longer.

In this case, the presence of a significant amount of water is rather a disadvantage: water has the highest heat capacity - it delays the maturation of the soil. Potato planting dates are being pushed back.

Among summer residents, there is an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bchernozem as a separate type of soil. This is not so: the very concept of "chernozem" speaks only of a significant content of biohumus, but not at all about the main component of the soil - sand or clay. In the same way, sandy loamy chernozem and nutritious loam are found.

How to determine that the soil has warmed up for planting potatoes

Good for garden beds open ground suitable planting dates are calculated from temperature measurements, as is practiced in greenhouse vegetable crops. Using a thermometer in the garden does not give an accurate picture - the soil warms up differently in different areas.

How to determine that, on average, the land has warmed up to + 7 ... 8 ° C at a depth of 10-12 cm? It is impossible to take into account all possible factors - a moving daytime shadow, the angle of inclination of the site in relation to the sun's rays, preliminary preparatory work on the site, uneven soil composition, groundwater occurrence, etc.

Traditionally, summer residents, and not only, are guided by signs based on centuries-old observation of nature and the phases of plant development.

Folk ways to determine the timing for planting potatoes

• bud break on a birch;
• cherry blossom.

In fact, these events occur at intervals of 7-10 days. Can be summarized:

• most early term the beginning of planting corresponds to the blooming of birch buds;
• cherry blossom - the most late deadline planting potatoes, when it is no longer possible to postpone field work.

Scientific Methods for Timing

City summer residents will not come to the site to stomp barefoot on the beds. It’s easier to wait for warming, when the risk of frost has passed, and plant your couple of acres of potatoes.

For planting tubers, the optimum temperature is from +12°C to +15°C, which approximately corresponds to the established daytime temperature of about +16...20°C.

Be sure to take into account the composition of the soil and not delay landing on sandy loamy areas.

How to increase soil temperature

In order to plant potatoes early, including in areas with heavy soils that slowly warm up, preparatory work is carried out.

1. Since autumn, ridges have been cut for early planting of tubers. The soil raised above the bed level dries out and warms up faster - it is ready for planting 10-14 days earlier.
2. Deep plowing of the site shortly before the planned planting allows you to dry the top layer of soil and warm it up, since it is done with a layer overturn.
3. The organization of warm beds, when the upper fertile layer, as it were, lies on an air cushion of plant waste.

The local temperature of the bed layer also increases due to the introduction of organic fertilizers, humus or compost.

Each summer resident has his own approach to determining planting dates: one closely follows the weather forecasts, the other watches the trees. With a difference in methods, the goal is the same: not to miss the optimal time for planting tubers. I hesitated for 2 weeks - the harvest is 1/3 lower.