Waterproofing
Drainage system around the house. Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house

Drainage system around the house. Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house

Many developers decide to build a house with a basement. The cost of building a basement is comparable to the cost of building a conventional floor.

In the basement, only non-residential, auxiliary premises can be located - a laundry room, a gym, a sauna, a boiler room, a workshop, a pantry, etc. All these rooms with better comfort and convenience would be placed on an ordinary floor or attic.

In the recent past, it was customary to build houses on deep strip foundations. The arrangement of a basement in such a house was really beneficial - the foundation served as the outer walls of the basement rooms.

Application in modern low-rise construction lightweight structures and makes the device in the basement house unprofitable.

Nevertheless, lovers of tradition and solidity often choose a house with a basement on strip foundation deep laying. To comfortably use the premises in the basement, the basement must be protected from ground moisture.

How to protect the basement or basement from water and dampness

present constantly. The level of groundwater, the amount of perched water, soil moisture on the site change according to the seasons of the year and depend on the structure and properties of the soil, the amount of precipitation, the terrain and the type of coverage on the site.

If the house is located on a slope, then, as a rule, it is necessary to divert water flowing down the slope from the house. Water flows down the slope both along the surface and underground horizons.

To protect the basement from water, two lines of defense are arranged:

Annular drainage around the house, at the level of the sole of the foundation, which intercepts and diverts from the walls of the basement most of the water tending to flood the basement.
Waterproofing of basement walls and floors, designed mainly to protect against capillary soil moisture.

Only basement waterproofing, without a drainage device, leads to the fact that water still finds a hole. If not immediately, then in a few years. Damp basement - money down the drain.

If you decide to make a basement or basement in the house, then wall drainage is recommended to be done, you will not regret.

Wall drainage is done simultaneously with the foundation. Its cost is minimal., compared to the cost of protecting an already flooded or damp basement from water.

If you want to take a chance, save on a drainage device and abandon its device, then conduct a thorough research. Assess seasonal fluctuations in groundwater levels at the site. Does it appear in the spring Ask your neighbors if they have drainage, if their basement heats up.

Lack of drainage, as a rule, will require strengthening the waterproofing of the foundation and increasing the cost of its installation.

The design of the wall drainage is adapted solely to protect the basement or basement from the water. If it is necessary to solve other problems, for example, lower the groundwater level throughout the site or reduce water saturation, then other types of drainage are used.

The device of wall drainage around the basement, as a rule, is mandatory:

With a constant or seasonal rise in the groundwater level above the base of the foundation.
If perched water appears on the site in the spring.

For a house located on a slope, from the side of the water running up the slope.
If the site has a waterproof layer of soil.

The last condition is caused by this. The soil cushion of the foundation and the sinuses of the foundation pit are usually covered with permeable soil to reduce the forces of frost heaving. If the soil on the site is waterproof, then the surface water will seep into the permeable backfill of the foundation and accumulate there.

Where to send water from the roof

Water flowing from the roof through the downpipes should not seep into the ground next to the walls of the house.

You can find a description of the device of the drainage system, which directs water from the roof into the wall drainage pipes. Wall drainage pipes in this case have a dual purpose - they serve both to collect groundwater around the foundation and to transport water from the roof.

Using leaky wall drainage pipes to also move water from the roof is quite risky, and usually ends up flooding the basement during heavy rain.

It is best to carry out a separate drainage system to drain water from the roof and surface runoff from the sites on the site.

Wall drainage around the foundation of the house in the context

(click on picture to enlarge)

Scheme of the ring wall drainage of the basement of the house

Drainage pipes - drains, are laid along the walls of the foundation and create a protective ring around the house. At the corners, the ring of drains breaks in the drainage wells. The water collected by drains is discharged into a storage, collection well.

Water can be removed from a prefabricated storage well in several directions:

Used on the site for household needs and watering plantings.
Drop on terrain outside the site.
Filter into the underlying soil layers.
Go to the central sewer of the village.

The method of using drainage water is chosen based on local conditions and the desires of the owner of the house.

In order to discharge drainage water into the central sewerage of the village, according to the rules, permission from the owner of the sewerage network and payment for services for receiving and transporting wastewater are required.

In drainage wells, soil particles settle, settle to the bottom and accumulate carried by water in drains. In addition, through the wells, the proper operation of the drainage system is monitored and periodically, as necessary, the drain area is washed with a jet of water from sediments accumulated there.

Drainage wells are installed at the corners of the route, when the slope or difference in height changes, as well as on straight sections every 40-50 meters. It is not necessary to install a well at the corners of the turn if the distance from the corner to the nearest well is not more than 20 meters. The absence of wells at two corners of rotation in a row is not allowed.

Drain pipe slope

The length of the drain section between adjacent drainage wells should be no more than 50 meters. Drains are laid with a slope of more than 0.5% (0.5 cm per 1 meter of pipe length) towards the collection well.

The angle of inclination is selected so that at the lower mark of the drainage ring around the house, the lower edge of the drain is placed at 20 cm(to the height of the gravel bed) above the base of the foundation. At the upper mark of the ring, the bottom of the drain should be located at 20 cm. below floor level in the basement.

It is not allowed to deepen wall drainage (including gravel bedding) into the sand cushion of the foundation, so as not to reduce the bearing capacity of the pillow and foundation.

To place pipes with the required slope sometimes it is required to increase the distance between the sole of the foundation and the level of the floor in the basement more than is required for design reasons. This increases the cost of building a foundation.

In this case it can be beneficial to abandon the construction of wall drainage and perform remote drainage. Remote drainage pipes are laid at a distance of 1-3 m. from the foundation. In this case, the lower mark of the drains in height may be lower than the base of the foundation.

Remote drainage can also be beneficial to protect an already built house with a basement.

Ring wall drainage device

How to make wall drainage with your own hands is clear from the drawings, which show the whole process step by step.

Geotextile

Geotextile is a synthetic fabric specially designed for laying in the ground. The material allows water to pass through, but retains soil particles. In the design of the drainage, it prevents silting of the filter bed, drainage plates and pipes with soil particles.

Filtering, draining layer on the foundation wall

On the foundation wall drainage slabs or drainage mats are placed on top of the waterproofing. Special permeable slabs or mats made of polymeric material intercept water that seeps to the foundation wall. Through channels in slabs or mats, water descends to the gravel and then enters the drainage pipes.

In addition, drainage slabs or mats protect the waterproofing from mechanical damage.

The drainage slab is separated from the soil with a layer of geotextile. Manufacturers produce drainage mats with a layer of geotextile already attached to their surface.

Drainage slabs can be easily made by hand. Plates are cast from Expanded clay of the largest and lightest fractions (20-40 mm and more), Slabs of this material will not only drain water, but also serve as a basement wall insulation. Plates with a thickness of at least 100 mm. lay out dry with dressing along the basement wall and cover with a geotextile sheet.

For insulation of basement walls, instead of drainage boards on the waterproofing of the foundation, insulation boards are spot-glued - extruded polystyrene foam 100 thick mm A profiled plastic membrane and geotextiles are fixed on top of the insulation boards.

On sale are membranes with a geotextile sheet already attached to their surface. Through the channels of the membrane, the water that has seeped through the geotextile flows down to the gravel sprinkling of the drainage pipe. The membrane also protects the insulation from soil damage.

Drainage pipes

On sale in the construction market there are drainage corrugated plastic perforated pipes with holes evenly spaced on the surface. Outside, the pipes are covered with a layer of geotextile, which protects the pipes from clogging with soil particles.

For wall drainage, pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm.

Pipes are joined together with the help of special couplings. At the angles of rotation, it is recommended to join the pipes with two fittings with a rotation angle other than 90 degrees. As a result, the rotation of the pipe will be smoother.

Drainage wells

Drainage wells are assembled from ready-made plastic sections with a diameter of about 300 mm.

You can use any other pipes of approximately the specified size. The bottom of the well should be below the level of the drainage pipes by 200-500 mm.

Every two to three years, the wells are cleaned and the drainage pipes are washed with a jet of water.

Prefabricated storage well

The water collected by the drainage system is discharged into a collection well. A well is a reservoir where some amount of drainage water accumulates. From the tank, using a submersible drainage pump, water is periodically pumped out in a certain direction, for example, into a surface drain and further to the relief outside the site.

The capacity of the well - the volume from the bottom to the supply pipe, is chosen large enough, so that the frequency of pumping water is not burdensome for the owners.

If the pumping process is automated, then the volume of the well and the degree of concern of the owners can be significantly reduced. To do this, a stationary drainage pump equipped with a float switch is installed in the well and electricity is supplied.

In the latter case, for the device of a collection well of small volume it is convenient to use the same design as for the drainage well. In order to increase the volume and ensure the operation of the pump, the collection well is made deeper than the drainage one.

It is necessary to follow that the water level in the collection well did not rise above the level of the drainage pipes.

Drainage water from a collection well can be pumped into an underground tank, where it is accumulated and used for watering plantings, washing cars and other household needs. This is beneficial if in the same container direct the water of the surface drain from the roof of the house and from the sites on the site.

The device of the storage tank, similar to the design of an autonomous sewage septic tank. For example, such a well-shaped tank, like a septic tank, is made from. You can also use plastic containers.

Water from the roof and from the surface drainage system under no circumstances should it fall into drainage system. Drainage will not cope with the removal of large amounts of water during a downpour and rainwater through the drainage can flood the basement. Pipes and wells of drainage and drainage systems must be isolated from each other.

If on site low groundwater level, and the bottom layer of soil on the site is permeable, then the prefabricated well can be made in the form. Water from the well will seep into the permeable layer of soil. The depth of the well should be such that the filtration zone is in a permeable soil layer.

Frost protection of the drainage system

Drainage system - drains, wells at the level of drains and below, in winter should be in a non-freezing layer of soil. It is known that in spring water appears on the surface of the earth much earlier than the soil frozen at depth thaws. Frozen drainage will not be able to keep water away from the foundation.

The soil surrounding the drainage may freeze if located higher. For example, for the Moscow region, the estimated depth will be 0.7 m. This development is especially likely if the basement of the house is not heated or well insulated.

In case of danger of freezing, the soil is insulated, laying under the blind area of the building a slab of PSB 35 foam or extruded polystyrene foam 100 thick mm.

Drainage at home: do it yourself, step-by-step instruction, videos, tips and tricks. From this article, you will learn the features of such a design as a drainage system at home: a drainage device at the foundation of the house, the rules for performing this procedure and the requirements for storm sewers. You will be able to study in detail the technology of creating a wall-type drainage system, as well as get acquainted with the prices for this type of work performed by turnkey specialists.

The drainage system is equipped to protect the house from storm, melt and groundwater

General information about the drainage system at home

Do not confuse the process of arranging drainage around the house with your own hands with waterproofing. These two concepts are incompatible, but both technologies are not mutually exclusive. In combination, they allow you to create a reliable protection of the base of a residential building from moisture.

Drainage system for a private house

The organization of a drainage system for a house, or, as it is also called, a drainage system, makes it possible to reduce the water level in a suburban area or completely eliminate excess liquid.

Note! The danger of flooding is likely both from the outside and from the inside. Outside, flood waters and accumulations of precipitation can affect the base. From the inside, underflooding is caused ground water if they lie close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection is useful.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to properly protect the foundation of a residential building, its basement and basement from water penetration for a long time. Long-term exposure to moisture eventually reveals weak spots and gaps in waterproofing. It is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage at a high level of groundwater.

The feasibility of drainage around the house

Constant exposure to moisture can not only destroy the concrete foundation of the building, but also provoke the appearance of other negative impact factors. These factors include putrefactive processes, the development of fungi and other microorganisms that can live in the supporting structures of the building.

Wall drainage is necessary to drain ground, rain and melt water from the foundation

This result can be caused both by the lack of drainage of the foundation of the house, and by errors made during calculations or direct installation of the system. Even if such a problem already exists, this does not mean that the situation cannot be corrected. The advantage of such a system is that the installation of wall foundation drainage can be carried out even after all construction work on the construction of the building has already been completed.

Installation of drainage systems for private houses is advisable in such cases:

The site has a lowland location - the lower the territory is located in relation to the surrounding landscape, the more urgent the problem of the lack of a drainage system becomes.
The quality of the soil does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the ground in a natural way - loamy and clayey soil options slow down the processes of natural decrease in the water level in the area.
The area is characterized by a high level of precipitation - storm water is collected on the surface in such an amount that they simply do not have time to be discharged by natural means.
Groundwater is located too close to the surface.

Residential building foundation drainage design

Note! Drainage schemes around the housemust take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. These surfaces include paths, driveways, and recreational areas that have asphalt or paved tiling.

The main types of drainage and storm water around the house

Properly making drainage around the house, as well as installing a storm system in the garden, is quite easy. The main thing is:

perform calculations correctly;
select the type of system that meets the conditions of the site;
select materials that are suitable for technical and operational characteristics;
carry out drainage of the foundation and blind areas in accordance with the requirements and technology.

Drainage system around the house

Choosing a Foundation Drainage System

The type of system is selected based on what conditions the territory has. The more acute the problem with the flooding of the site, the more decisive the protection measures must be.

The main types of surface systems:

storm drain or storm sewer - installation of surface drainage around the house. Its main advantage lies in a simple and affordable technology. Most of the work is carried out quickly and without the help of specialists. The disadvantages of this system include limited capabilities. The storm drain is capable of removing only melt and storm moisture; it cannot cope with the problem of groundwater;
linear system - covers a wide range of tasks, is able to drain the territory of the entire summer cottage and the area around the building. Water in this case moves through the channels and enters the well for drainage. In most cases, channels have a linear type of placement. Special gratings are put on top;
dot system - a do-it-yourself foundation drainage option, which allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from locally located sources. These sources include water taps and downpipes. Point-type drainage is covered with decorative metal gratings. They prevent clogging of the system with debris and fallen leaves. From each water intake point, drainage pipes are laid around the house with their own hands in accordance with the technology, which involves the subsequent connection of water transfer routes to a single highway leading to the well.

Linear drainage around the house

Useful advice! Point and line systems can be combined to provide a combined drainage solution that improves the drainage efficiency of the area around the building.

Features of a high-quality drainage device at home: the cost of work

The price of drainage around the turnkey house, of course, is much higher than the cost of similar work done by one's own hands. But in this case you get:

guaranteed quality of the result;
full compliance with all technological standards;
accurate calculation of all parameters and the right choice of materials;
no errors fatal to the system;
high speed organization of turnkey foundation drainage.

The cost of drainage in the area around the house(storm drain):

To the indicated cost of drainage around the house, the price of installing each additional storm water inlet, if necessary, is added. It is 1500 rubles / piece.

In order to make a more accurate calculation of the cost, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (a storm water inlet should be purchased for each riser), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (based on this indicator, the molding of the system is determined).

Useful advice! If you want to organize a system for the removal of storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to shallow storm water (up to 1 m). It can only function in the warm season. A system with a depth level below freezing of the soil (more than 1.5 m) will cope with rain and melt water. This type of sewage can be used in combination with cable heated gutter systems.

Common foundation and garden drainage schemes

All drainage systems around the house can be divided into two groups according to the type of location:

drainage at the foundation of the building;
garden drainage systems.

Scheme of the drainage system at their summer cottage

For the organization of storm and drainage structures for garden plots, the following schemes are used:

"herringbone";
"partial sample";
"parallel placement".

In garden plots, systems of closed or open drainage are installed. In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.

The wall drainage layout implies digging in and arranging a clay castle through the entire foundation around the perimeter. The width of this element is 0.5-1 m. This type of scheme is recommended to be used if the building has a basement or is equipped with a basement. At the same time, the depth of drainage around the house determines the level of placement of floors. Pipes are placed approximately 25-30 cm lower than the floor surface.

The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:

sand cushion;
geotextile film;
pipeline (inner diameter 100-200 mm);
interlayers of sand, which has a draining purpose;
soil;
layers of clay (can be replaced with a waterproof film coating).

Ring (trench) drainage - most suitable for sandy surfaces

The ring drainage scheme around the house involves laying trenches at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building. To prevent moisture from penetrating into the area located between the base of the house and the trench, it is necessary to organize a clay castle.

Useful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. You need to step back from it by 0.5 m. Thanks to this, you exclude the possibility of flooding the basement, as well as basements.

House drainage device: the price of the services of specialists in working with the foundation

As in the case of storm drains, the prices for organizing a drainage system at the foundation depend not only on the length of the building along the perimeter, but also on the level of deepening of the drainage structure.

Arrangement of the ringdrainage around the house: the cost of workFull construction:

Installation for this system of a collector well, complete with pumping station, will cost about 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.

The calculation of the exact cost of turnkey work is carried out taking into account the depth of the foundation of the house (the level of penetration depends on this indicator), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (also consider the necessary indentation from the wall).

Arrangement of wallhome drainage: price of workFull construction:

When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.

Drainage system at home: do-it-yourself drainage device

To arrange the drainage of the blind area around the house or other similar system, soil analysis is carried out at the initial stage. As a rule, such data become known even during the construction of the foundation part of the building. For this, several wells (4-5 wells) are drilled in the construction zone to a depth of 5 m and the terrain is studied.

On clayey and loamy soil types, moisture from precipitation and snowmelt accumulates in the upper layer of the soil. A similar situation occurs if groundwater passes at a depth of less than 2.5 m from the surface.

Drainage around the house allows you to slow down the process of foundation destruction due to groundwater

Useful advice! If you are not sure about own forces, entrust the choice of a drainage system to professionals. In case of problems, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.

Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it rightfreezing depth calculation:

The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.

Organization of wall drainage at home: how to do the installation correctly

Before installing a drainage system around the house with your own hands, you need to do a number of preparatory work, since this design will be adjacent to the foundation part of the building. Preparation includes:

Treatment of the base with a bituminous priming compound from the outside.
Application over the dried surface of bituminous mastic.
Sticking reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 mm.
Drying the surface during the day.
Application of the second layer of bituminous mastic.

The specific gravity of the soil can affect the pipe laying pattern. Data on the main categories of soils are placed in the table.

Distances between drains fordo-it-yourself drainage devices around the house:

Useful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying plan, consider not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils, the optimal pipe laying step is no more than 50 m, on clay soils - 10 m, on loamy soils - 20 m.

Home drainage technology: how to do the bulk of the work

The procedure for creating a foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:

at the lowest point of the site, a collector well is being installed;
a trench is formed along the foundation with a slope to the water collector, which is regulated using the building level;
a sand cushion is created at the bottom of the trenches 5 cm thick;
a geotextile fabric is laid on top of the sand cushion with a margin so that the ends of the canvas can be overlapped;
formation of a gravel cushion 10 cm thick;

Drainage at home is a top priority

installation of pipes at an angle of 2 °;
docking of pipeline elements with the help of corner connectors and adapters;
inspection wells are placed at the corners of the structure. From them to the drainage well, a pipeline is laid with a slope;
formation of an embankment of gravel 10 cm thick;
wrapping pipes with gravel with the free ends of a geotextile fabric, which is fixed with strong synthetic ropes;
filling trenches with earth or sand (depending on the type of soil on the site).

Arrangement of ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to install the system

For the installation of this system, it is required to make a closed system of trenches around the structure, taking into account the fact that their depth should exceed the level of the foundation by 0.5 m.

Useful advice! Use perforated pipes. The trenches must be removed from the base of the house by 5-8 m, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sag.

Drainage pipe for drainage system

The trenches in this case should also be located with a slope to the well to collect water. The minimum slope indicator is 2-3 cm / linear meter. Adding sand or removing it, this indicator can be controlled.

Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:

Sand is poured at the bottom of the trench and a geotextile fabric is laid with a margin (the free edges must be wrapped on the walls of the trench).
A crushed stone pillow 10 cm thick is formed.
A pipeline is being installed with a diameter of elements of 10 cm or more with an inclination angle of 2 °.
Manholes are being installed in those places where the pipes turn. On straight sections, wells can be installed at a distance of 12 m from each other.
An embankment is made of gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 20-30 cm).
Wrapping is carried out with the free edges of the geotextile fabric.
The trenches are filled to the top with sand and earth.

Closed drainage, subject to device technology and proper operation, effectively collects water for many years

Do-it-yourself organization of drainage around the house without pipes

The process of arranging drainage around the house can do without the use of pipes and even rubble. Alternative types of drainage:

Backfill system - improvised materials (fragments of concrete, broken bricks, stones, pieces of hardened cement) and necessarily geotextile fabric are used as a filler for trenches.
Drainage based on plastic bottles - material with twisted caps is laid longitudinally in trenches, covered with turf and earth.
Fascine system - bundles of brushwood with a diameter of 30 cm are used, tied with nylon cords or wire.
Rod drainage - at the bottom of the trenches, strut sticks are installed, where small young trees or long knots are then laid.
Plank system - boards are placed at the bottom of the trenches in such a way that a triangle is obtained in cross section, directed with the apex down. Before filling with earth on the boards, it is recommended to lay moss as a filter.

Foundation drainage is necessary to protect the house with a high level of groundwater

However, such systems can behave unpredictably and it is impossible to predict the service life of drainage from improvised materials.

Use the video below for a more detailed look at the classic do-it-yourself drainage technology around the house. Only in this case you will be able to achieve a really high-quality, effective and durable result. By adhering to the technology requirements, you will get a reliable drainage system, even if you create a crushed stone trench system without piping.

Drainage around the house is effective way protection of building elements and outbuildings from moisture. The creation of such a drainage system is especially important if the groundwater is at a depth of less than 2.5 meters. This is also necessary if the residential structure is located on a site that is prone to seasonal or weather flooding. How to make drainage around the house with your own hands - step by step instructions. The arrangement of the drainage system is not a difficult task, but for its precise organization it is necessary to follow simple rules.

With the help of special drainage pipes LightDrein, you can install the drainage system yourself. See the addresses of stores in Moscow and the Moscow region.

System Description

For the effective removal of ground, rain and melt water, which not only destroy the structural elements of the building, fill the basement and cellar, but also reduce the bearing capacity of the soil, there are several ways to arrange drainage. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, the decision which type to choose and how best to make drainage around the house remains with the owner himself.

The design and location of the protection system against excessive moisture is selected taking into account the terrain, the presence of recessed rooms, the depth of groundwater, and the type of soil. By design, the following drainage systems are distinguished: filling, open and closed.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Depending on what area of the land plot needs to be drained, what type and what depth of drainage will be most effective, the location of the entire system is chosen. If necessary, to exclude the effect of water on the foundation and basements, wall or ring drainage is created. The first type is appropriate in the presence of a basement or basement and is located in close proximity to the foundation walls. Trenches are dug around the perimeter, a perforated pipe is laid (below the level of the basement floor) and covered with rubble or gravel. The wall is fenced off with a layer of geotextile with one-sided conductivity. Water from the ground does not reach the walls, but enters the drainage pipe and is discharged to a safe place.

For effective drainage, you need to know how to properly drain the site. To do this, the drainage system is located around the entire perimeter. The most time-consuming, expensive, but also the most effective way is a closed system using plastic pipes. The price of such perforated pipes is affordable for any family budget. It perfectly removes excess water from the site, preventing mold from forming, destroying garden and garden plants, destroying load-bearing building elements and not spoiling the appearance of the house.

To create such a drainage, you need to perform several operations:

draw a diagram of the future system on paper indicating the size and distance from the edge of the site, as well as taking into account landscape design and the location of plantings;
mark future tracks on the site itself with paint or sand;
dig trenches along the marked routes with your own hands or with the help of small equipment (the depth and width depend on the level of groundwater and the diameter of the pipes used, vary from 70 to 150 cm in depth and from 25 to 40 cm in width);
line the bottom and walls of the trench with geotextile (the material will significantly reduce drainage clogging and significantly increase the period of effective operation);
apply a layer of sand (about 15 cm) to the bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone or gravel (about 20 cm);
using the device and the gravel layer, set the desired slope level;
with a large area of \u200b\u200bthe site, it will be necessary to create manholes at a distance of 50 meters from each other in places where pipes bend or change in slope;
perforated pipes are laid (preferably with a filter element - fiberglass, coconut fiber, non-woven or needle-punched textiles) and interconnected using fittings;
the most optimal diameter of the drainage pipe, which provides good water drainage, is 110 mm;
the slope is checked again (can be easily done with a stretched rope), while it is necessary to create a uniform level, excluding sagging of the pipe;
it is very important that the drainage system is below the freezing level of the soil;
from above, the pipes are covered with crushed stone or gravel, the thickness of the layer should not reach the soil surface of about 15 cm;
geotextiles are laid on a layer of crushed stone and soil is poured.

Do not be afraid of increasing the cost of creating drainage: purchasing additional geotextiles and separating all layers from each other will only increase the efficiency and service life of the entire system. Following these simple instructions will allow you to install long-term water protection with your own hands and preserve your property and health throughout the life of the house.

Backfill construction

The backfill drainage structure is a deep trench (below the upper groundwater level) filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or other rubble material. The upper part of the trench is covered with a layer of turf, and to reduce sagging and silting of the passage space, the walls are laid with a layer of geotextile material. Such drainage is easy to create, low cost, long service life and no need for maintenance.

In addition, in its final form, it does not violate the general appearance of the site and does not introduce dissonance into landscape design. Of the minuses, one can note the low throughput of the water flow and the impossibility of cleaning the discharge channel in case of clogging.

Open type drainage device

An open option or surface drainage involves the creation of shallow trenches (about 0.5 meters) of an open type, through which rain and melt water is drained into special containers or removed from the site. To prevent sagging and destruction of the walls of the trenches, plastic or metal trays are placed in them. Lattices on top provide additional security.

How to make a closed drainage system

The most complex and time-consuming type of drainage is the closed type. When it is organized, trenches are dug, a layer of gravel or large gravel is poured onto the bottom, and then perforated pipes are laid. From above, the entire structure is again closed with crushed stone or gravel, and at the end a layer of soil is applied. To increase the efficiency of water drainage and reduce silting on perforated pipes, filter material (geotextile) is used. The material for the manufacture of perforated pipes are steel, asbestos cement, ceramics, but at present, almost all types have given way to plastic. Corrugated plastic pipes are widely used, which already have holes in finished form, are distinguished by their long length and ease of installation.

When choosing any method of removing excess moisture, be sure to take into account the slope of the drainage channels. For the system to work properly, the level of inclination towards the outlet to an artificial or natural water intake must be at least 3 ° along one branch or 1 cm per linear meter. When deciding how to properly slope the drainage, you can use the adjustment of the thickness of the gravel pad.

The cost of installation work

Name of works			price, rub.
*Ring drainage device around the house*
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well
Wall drainage around the house
With a depth of up to 1 m.
With a depth of up to 2 m.
With a depth of up to 3 m.
Collector well

* The cost indicated on the site is not a public offer (Article 435 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation) and is for informational purposes.
Pricing also depends on the volume, remoteness of the object and other factors.

If stains or traces of moisture are visible on the walls of the room, this is a sure sign of poor waterproofing. To avoid premature destruction of the building, the appearance of mold and rot, it is imperative to equip drainage around the house.

Purpose

Drainage is a drainage system that is used to eliminate excess fluid around a house, garden, or yard. Moisture can appear near the house due to various conditions: a high level of groundwater, strong melting, or a special type of earth (clay, crushed stone, loam). Also, the drainage system is used in courtyards, where, due to the inconvenient location of the house, the water cannot leave on its own or, on the contrary, drains too quickly, leaving the ground dry and lifeless.

When to install drainage around the house:

If liquid collects in the basement during snowmelt or heavy precipitation;
If your area has a high level of groundwater;
When the foundation of the house is regularly washed away with water;
A capillary network appears on the floor or some areas of the building are prone to mold.

Drainage installation can be easily done by hand, in most cases a perimeter foundation drainage system around a private house is used. For more complex cases, it is possible to use a complex system of natural type. This is the arrangement of a number of drains, in which there are main (main) and additional ones. This technique is used on swampy soils or a very large piece of land.

How to do

There are two types of dehumidification that are used most often by craftsmen:

Surface;
Deep.

Surface or storm is a drain, which is protected by a special mesh. Water enters the pipeline after rain, as well as snowmelt. The system is at a certain angle to the building, which allows you to remove moisture in any quantity. Such surface drainage works well in warm regions with high average annual precipitation.

Photo: surface drainage

The deep system is more complex, but it is also considered much more effective than the surface one. The depth of the laying is determined by calculating the ratio of the size and depth of the foundation and the level of soil freezing. Soil type also plays a big role. To drain groundwater in this way, a separate pipeline or simply a paved trench can be used.

AT without fail wells are built at a certain distance from the drains, into which waste water. After that, it can be used for irrigation or simply go into the deeper layers of the earth.

The right device drainage around the house also involves the development of a project (diagram with structural details). Using this drawing, you will be able to determine which type of system is most preferable for you, as well as draw up an approximate estimate for the work. You can use the services of specialists, or develop a scheme yourself.

Related video:

Step-by-step instructions on how to make proper drainage around the house:

Calculate the communication distance from the foundation. It is very important that the drains do not touch the already laid sewer and water supply pipes. It is possible to lay wall drainage, it will run almost close to the base of the building, or more distant - at a distance of 1.5 - 2 meters from the wall;
After you need to dig a trench. Its depth depends on the level of groundwater, the preferred type of drainage system and the level of ground freezing. You can get all the necessary data from the geological bureau of your region;
It is necessary to dig in a place where the sewer does not pass, otherwise there is a possibility of a violation of its tightness;
The drain must be connected to a septic tank or a drainage well. To equip it, a cylindrical hole is dug at the lowest point of the site, in which a plastic barrel or concrete rings are placed (depending on your needs). Installation is carried out simultaneously with the installation of drains, that is, the trenches must be connected to the septic tank. If everything is done correctly, then high waters themselves will drain into a prepared place;
When the trench is ready, sand is poured onto its bottom, which will act as a filter layer. There are several options for arranging the drain itself. You can lay it with construction debris, placing large stones on the bottom and reducing their size as they approach the surface. Some craftsmen use drainage from plastic bottles, brushwood, boards for such purposes. For country house you can use improvised means, for example, bricks, but for a residential country cottage it is better to work with plastic pipes;
After you need to do the insulation of the drainage around the house. If you are organizing a drainage system from improvised materials, then thermal insulation will not be needed, but when working with plastic pipelines, it is necessary. For this, communications are covered with geotextiles. Laying technology is similar to insulation sewer pipes- each drain is wrapped in material, and additionally reinforced with clamps;
After the drainage site is filled up or covered with a mesh, depending on whether it is superficial or deep. With a deep arrangement, it is necessary to make the embankment a slide so that depressions and pits do not appear when the earth settles. In a large area, the ditch can be covered with a blind area. For example, a slate sheet or a brick path, then the drain will be completely invisible to prying eyes;
Every six months, you need to inspect the septic tank, clean it of silt and dirt.

Tip from homeowners with gardens: Fertilizer can be placed at the bottom of the trench, then the wastewater will become a source of essential minerals. In this case, it can later be used to water the garden and vegetable garden.

If the size of the local area allows you, then you can make a much simpler drainage system. In the lowest place of the land share, a hole is dug under the lake, it is naturally filled with water. With the right approach and organization, in the future it will be possible to make an excellent landscape design with interesting elements. For example, launch fish into an artificial reservoir or decorate it with lilies and other water-loving plants. For the fact that the ode will flow into the "pit", she will leave the house. If you solve the problem in this way, then do not forget to regularly clean the lake so that it does not flood and turn into a swamp

Price

The cost of arranging drainage around the house depends on the materials with which you will make the drainage system (for example, the price of construction waste is cheap). To work in the country, you can take the most affordable filters: wooden boards (fold them crosswise and install them with their ends on the walls of the trench), stones, fragments of bricks, slate. For the drainage system of a wooden or brick residential building, it is worth taking more complex and expensive materials - plastic pipes, old metal communications, even a pipe made of plastic bottles is suitable for low rainfall.

Be sure to take care of the insulation. If it is not possible to buy geotextiles for drainage, then cover the pipes with unnecessary rags or even humus. This will help keep the system from freezing during the cold season.

From this article you will learn the features of such a design as a drainage system around the house: a drainage device at the foundation of the house, the rules for performing this procedure and the requirements for storm sewers. You will be able to study in detail the technology of creating a wall-type drainage system, as well as get acquainted with the prices for this type of work performed by turnkey specialists.

Device

The organization of a drainage system for a house, or, as it is also called, a drainage system, makes it possible to reduce the water level in a suburban area or completely eliminate excess liquid.

Note! The danger of flooding is likely both from the outside and from the inside. Outside, flood waters and accumulations of precipitation can affect the base. From the inside, groundwater causes flooding if it lies close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection is useful.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to properly protect the foundation of a residential building, its basement and basement from water penetration for a long time. Long-term exposure to moisture eventually exposes weaknesses and gaps in the waterproofing. It is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage at a high level of groundwater.

The feasibility of drainage around the house

Installation of drainage systems for private houses is advisable in such cases:

The site has a lowland location - the lower the territory is located in relation to the surrounding landscape, the more urgent the problem of the lack of a drainage system becomes.
The quality of the soil does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the ground in a natural way - loamy and clayey soil options slow down the processes of natural decrease in the water level in the area.
The area is characterized by a high level of precipitation - storm water is collected on the surface in such an amount that they simply do not have time to be discharged by natural means.
Groundwater is located too close to the surface.

Note! Drainage schemes around the housemust take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. These surfaces include paths, driveways, and recreational areas that have asphalt or paved tiling.

The main types of drainage and storm water around the house

Properly making drainage around the house, as well as installing a storm system in the garden, is quite easy. The main thing is:

perform calculations correctly;
select the type of system that meets the conditions of the site;
select materials that are suitable for technical and operational characteristics;
carry out drainage of the foundation and blind areas in accordance with the requirements and technology.

Choosing a Foundation Drainage System

The type of system is selected based on what conditions the territory has. The more acute the problem with the flooding of the site, the more decisive the protection measures must be.

The main types of surface systems:

storm drain or storm sewer - installation of surface drainage around the house. Its main advantage lies in a simple and affordable technology. Most of the work is carried out quickly and without the help of specialists. The disadvantages of this system include limited capabilities. The storm drain is capable of removing only melt and storm moisture; it cannot cope with the problem of groundwater;
linear system - covers a wide range of tasks, is able to drain the territory of the entire summer cottage and the area around the building. Water in this case moves through the channels and enters the well for drainage. In most cases, channels have a linear type of placement. Special gratings are put on top;
dot system - a do-it-yourself foundation drainage option, which allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from locally located sources. These sources include water taps and downpipes. Point-type drainage is covered with decorative metal gratings. They prevent clogging of the system with debris and fallen leaves. From each water intake point, drainage pipes are laid around the house with their own hands in accordance with the technology, which involves the subsequent connection of water transfer routes to a single highway leading to the well.

Useful advice! Point and line systems can be combined to provide a combined drainage solution that improves the drainage efficiency of the area around the building.

Features of a high-quality drainage device around the house: the cost of work

The price of drainage around the turnkey house, of course, is much higher than the cost of similar work done by one's own hands. But in this case you get:

guaranteed quality of the result;
full compliance with all technological standards;
accurate calculation of all parameters and the right choice of materials;
no errors fatal to the system;
high speed organization of turnkey foundation drainage.

The cost of drainage in the area around the house(storm drain):

Service type	Depth level, m	Number of storm water inlets, pcs.	Price, rub./rm
Shallow storm drain	1	14 (maximum)	1500
Shallow storm drain	1	15 (minimum)	1900
Storm drain with a depth below the freezing level	1,5	14 (maximum)	2300
Storm drain with a depth below the freezing level	1,5	15 (minimum)	2700

To the indicated cost of drainage around the house, the price of installing each additional storm water inlet, if necessary, is added. It is 1500 rubles / piece.

In order to make a more accurate calculation of the cost, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (for each riser should be purchased), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (based on this indicator, the molding of the system is determined).

Useful advice! If you want to organize a system for the removal of storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to shallow storm water (up to 1 m). It can only function in the warm season. A system with a depth level below freezing of the soil (more than 1.5 m) will cope with rain and melt water. This type can be used in combination with cable heated gutter systems.

Common foundation and garden drainage schemes

All drainage systems around the house can be divided into two groups according to the type of location:

drainage at the foundation of the building;
garden drainage systems.

For the organization of storm and drainage structures for garden plots, the following schemes are used:

"herringbone";
"partial sample";
"parallel placement".

In garden plots, systems of closed or open drainage are installed. In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.

The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:

sand cushion;
geotextile film;
pipeline (inner diameter 100-200 mm);
interlayers of sand, which has a draining purpose;
soil;
layers of clay (can be replaced with a waterproof film coating).

Useful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. You need to step back from it by 0.5 m. Thanks to this, you exclude the possibility of flooding the basement, as well as basements.

Drainage device around the house: the price of the services of specialists in working with the foundation

Arrangement of the ringdrainage around the house: the cost of workFull construction:

Depth level, m	Price, rub./rm
1	1500
1,5	2550
2	4600
2,5	7100
3	9450

Installation for this system of a collector well, equipped with a pumping station, will cost about 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.

Arrangement of walldrainage around the house: the price of workFull construction:

Depth level, m	Price, rub./rm
1	1600
1,5	2450
2	4300
2,5	6900
3	9600

When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.

Drainage system around the house: do-it-yourself drainage device

Useful advice! If you are not confident in your own abilities, entrust the choice of a drainage system to professionals. In case of problems, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.

Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it rightfreezing depth calculation:

Climatic zones	Soil freezing depth, cm
Kurgan-Omsk	210-220
Orenburg-Kostanay	180-200
Vologda-Vyatka	150-170
Petersburg-Moscow	120-140
Rostov-on-Don-Kursk	90-110
Kaliningrad-Sevastopol	70-80

The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.

Organization of wall drainage around the house: how to do the installation correctly

Treatment of the base with a bituminous priming compound from the outside.
Application over the dried surface of bituminous mastic.
Sticking reinforcing mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 mm.
Drying the surface during the day.
Application of the second layer of bituminous mastic.

The specific gravity of the soil can affect the pipe laying pattern. Data on the main categories of soils are placed in the table.

Distances between drains fordo-it-yourself drainage devices around the house:

Pipeline installation depth, cm	Optimum distance between pipes, cm
Pipeline installation depth, cm	Light soil types	Soils with average values	Heavy clay soils
450	450-550	400-500	200-300
600	650-750	500-650	300-400
900	900-1100	700-900	400-550
1200	1200-1500	1000-1200	450-700
1500	1550-1800	1200-1500	650-900
1800	1800-2200	1500-1800	700-1100

Useful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying plan, consider not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils, the optimal pipe laying step is no more than 50 m, on clay soils - 10 m, on loamy soils - 20 m.

Technology for creating drainage around the house: how to do the main array of work

The procedure for creating a foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:

at the lowest point of the site, a collector well is being installed;
a trench is formed along the foundation with a slope to the water collector, which is regulated using the building level;
a sand cushion is created at the bottom of the trenches 5 cm thick;
it is laid on top of the sand cushion with a margin so that the ends of the canvas can be overlapped;
formation of a gravel cushion 10 cm thick;

installation of pipes at an angle of 2 °;
docking of pipeline elements with the help of corner connectors and adapters;
inspection wells are placed at the corners of the structure. From them to the drainage well, a pipeline is laid with a slope;
formation of an embankment of gravel 10 cm thick;
wrapping pipes with gravel with the free ends of a geotextile fabric, which is fixed with strong synthetic ropes;
filling trenches with earth or sand (depending on the type of soil on the site).

Arrangement of ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to install the system

Useful advice! Use perforated pipes. The trenches must be removed from the base of the house by 5-8 m, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sag.

For drainage system

Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:

Sand is poured at the bottom of the trench and a geotextile fabric is laid with a margin (the free edges must be wrapped on the walls of the trench).
A crushed stone pillow 10 cm thick is formed.
A pipeline is being installed with a diameter of elements of 10 cm or more with an inclination angle of 2 °.
Manholes are being installed in those places where the pipes turn. On straight sections, wells can be installed at a distance of 12 m from each other.
An embankment is made of gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 20-30 cm).
Wrapping is carried out with the free edges of the geotextile fabric.
The trenches are filled to the top with sand and earth.

Do-it-yourself organization of drainage around the house without pipes

The process of arranging drainage around the house can do without the use of pipes and even rubble. Alternative types of drainage:

Backfill system - improvised materials (fragments of concrete, broken bricks, stones, pieces of hardened cement) and necessarily geotextile fabric are used as a filler for trenches.
Drainage based on plastic bottles - material with twisted caps is laid longitudinally in trenches, covered with turf and earth.
Fascine system - bundles of brushwood with a diameter of 30 cm are used, tied with nylon cords or wire.
Rod drainage - at the bottom of the trenches, strut sticks are installed, where small young trees or long knots are then laid.
Plank system - boards are placed at the bottom of the trenches in such a way that a triangle is obtained in cross section, directed with the apex down. Before filling with earth on the boards, it is recommended to lay moss as a filter.

However, such systems can behave unpredictably and it is impossible to predict the service life of drainage from improvised materials.