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Gilex water pump malfunction. Do-it-yourself pumping station repair: typical malfunctions and how to fix them

Gilex water pump malfunction. Do-it-yourself pumping station repair: typical malfunctions and how to fix them

Submersible pumps have to work in difficult conditions. They are constantly exposed to water, vibration, low temperature, abrasive particles, etc. But despite the fact that the units are made of parts with a large margin of safety, various malfunctions appear in them over time. To repair water pumps with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the main symptoms that indicate certain breakdowns in the equipment.

If failures are noticed in the operation of a submersible pump, then it is not always necessary to remove it from the well for inspection. This recommendation only applies to pumping stations where pressure switch installed. It is because of him that the device may not turn on, turn off or create poor water pressure. Therefore, the operability of the pressure sensor is first checked, and after that, if necessary, the pump is removed from the well.

Important! In the case of submersible pumps operating without hydraulic accumulators, they should always be removed from the shaft at the slightest sign of failure.

Water pump malfunctions will be easier to diagnose if you first familiarize yourself with the most common failures of this unit.

The pump is not working

The reasons that the pump does not work may be as follows.

Electrical protection tripped. In this case, disconnect the machine from the mains and turn on the machine again. If it knocks it out again, then the problem should not be sought in the pumping equipment. But when the machine is turned on normally, do not turn the pump on again, you must first find the reason why the protection worked.
Fuses blown. If, after replacement, they burn out again, then you need to look for the cause in the power cable of the unit or in the place where it is connected to the mains.
Cable damage has occurred under water. Remove the device and check the cord.
The pump dry-run protection has tripped.". Before starting the machine, make sure that it is immersed in the liquid to the required depth.

Also, the reason that the device does not turn on may lie in the incorrect operation of the pressure switch installed in pumping station. The start pressure of the pump motor needs to be adjusted.

The pump works but does not pump

There may also be several reasons why the device does not pump water.

Shut-off valve closed. Turn off the machine and slowly open the tap. In the future, pumping equipment should not be started with the valve closed, otherwise it will fail.
The water level in the well has dropped below the pump. It is necessary to calculate the dynamic water level and immerse the device to the required depth.
Zalip check valve . In this case, it is required to disassemble the valve and clean it, if necessary, replace it with a new one.
Inlet filter clogged. To clean the filter, the hydraulic machine is removed and the filter mesh is cleaned and washed.

Low machine performance

Advice! If the performance of pumping equipment drops, the mains voltage should be checked first. It is because of its reduced value that the engine of the unit cannot gain the necessary power.

Also, performance degradation causes:

partial clogging of valves and valves installed in the water supply system;
partially clogged lifting pipe of the apparatus;
pipeline depressurization;
incorrect adjustment of the pressure switch (applies to pumping stations).

Frequent switching on and off of the device

This problem occurs if the submersible pump works in tandem with a hydraulic accumulator. In this case, frequent starts and stops of the unit can be provoked by the following factors:

in the hydraulic tank there was a decrease in pressure below the minimum (by default it should be 1.5 bar);
there was a rupture of a rubber pear or diaphragm in the tank;
the pressure switch is not working properly.

Water is supplied with pulsation

If you notice that the water from the tap does not flow in a constant stream, then this is a sign that the water level in the well has dropped below dynamic. It is necessary to lower the pump deeper if the distance to the bottom of the shaft allows this.

The buzz of the machine is heard, but the water does not pump

If the pump is buzzing, and at the same time water is not pumped out of the well, then there may be several reasons:

there was a “gluing” of the impeller of the apparatus with its body due to long-term storage of the device without water;
defective engine start capacitor;
dipped voltage in the network;
the impeller of the pump is jammed due to dirt collected in the body of the apparatus.

The unit does not turn off

If the automation does not work, the pump will work without stopping, even if excessive pressure is created in the hydraulic tank (seen from the pressure gauge). It's all to blame pressure switch out of order or incorrectly adjusted.

The nuances of breakdowns depending on the brand of the pump

When operating pumps from different manufacturers, it was noticed that some brands of devices are often subject to the same breakdowns. From this it follows that these models of units have their own distinctive features in terms of the occurrence of malfunctions.

Aquarius

Aquarius pumps have prone to overheating, especially if they work in wells of small depth. If a cheap model breaks down, its repair costs about 50% of the cost of a new device. If the device is out of order, then it is easier to throw it away than to repair it.

Grundfos

Most models of this manufacturer have valve system. Also around the engine there is a special thermal insulation. Sometimes pump failures occur due to the failure of the listed parts. Because the thermal pad is around the motor, it will need to be removed from the housing for repair.

Baby

Apparatuses "Kid" are products of domestic manufacturers. The cost of repairing units of this brand is not high, and most of the breakdowns are repaired by the owners of the devices themselves. The main failure often encountered in this pump is loud noise during operation of the hydraulic machine without pumping out the liquid. This behavior of the device means that there was a rupture of the central axis holding the anchor and the membrane.

Gilex

The engine in the vortex and rotary pumps "Dzhileks" is oil-filled. Therefore, a frequent breakdown of these units is oil leakage from the engine. It can only be topped up at a service center.

Important! Many on the Internet advise using transformer oil or regular glycerin instead of the original oil filler. Doing this is highly discouraged, of course, unless you set yourself the goal of spoiling the technique in an unusual way.

Brook

There is an opinion that the operation of the drainage pumps "Brook" can continue without interruption for 7 hours or more. This is explained by the peculiarity of their design, which meets all European standards. Despite this, the device overheated as well as pumps from other manufacturers. Therefore, it is recommended that after every 2-3 hours of operation of the device, give it time to “rest”.

Marquis (Marcus)

The owners of the Marcus well pump sometimes notice that the device turns on only after a slight blow either on the pipe leading to it, or after hitting the hydraulic machine itself. This error is explained by “ souring” of the impeller, which will have to be cleaned by disassembling the unit.

How to disassemble the unit to diagnose a breakdown

In case of pump breakdowns requiring replacement of parts located inside its housing, disassembly of the unit will be required. A submersible pump consists of a motor compartment and a compartment with one or more impellers, the purpose of which is to capture water. Below is a diagram of the device of that part of the centrifugal pump where the impellers are installed.

As can be seen from the figure, the impellers are mounted on the shaft of the unit. The more of them, the higher the pressure created by the pump. In the second compartment of the hydraulic machine is located rotary engine. It is in a sealed case, and to open it, you need to know some of the nuances.

So, in order to move from theory to practice and disassemble the pump, follow these steps (depending on the manufacturer, the design of the unit may differ).

Unscrew the 2 screws holding the mesh of the device.
Remove the mesh and turn the motor shaft by hand. If it does not spin, then the problem may be either in the engine compartment or in the pumping part of the apparatus.
First you need to disassemble the pumping part of the device. Unscrew the 4 screws holding the power cable channel and disconnect it from the machine body.
Next, unscrew the 4 nuts holding the pump flange.
After unscrewing the fasteners, separate the pumping part of the apparatus from the engine. At this stage, it is possible to determine in which section the jamming occurred. If the shaft of the pump compartment does not rotate, then this assembly must be disassembled.
Unscrew all fasteners holding the lower flange of the pump part of the unit.
An adapter must be screwed into the fitting located at the top of the block, which will help keep the threads from damage.
Secure the pump in a vise.
Having picked up a suitable tool, unscrew the bottom flange.
The impeller assembly can now be pulled out and inspected for faults.
Next, you should check the support shaft for wear or play.
To replace (if necessary) the impellers, it is necessary to fix the shaft in a vice and unscrew the top nut.
At the next stage, the blocks are removed, washed and, if necessary, replaced with new ones.
The assembly of the pumping part of the apparatus is carried out in the reverse order.
To disassemble the electric motor, it must also be fixed in a vise.
Next, remove the plastic flange protection by unscrewing the fasteners.
Remove the retaining ring holding the cover with a pair of pliers.
Remove the cover using a slotted screwdriver.
Remove the rubber membrane from the housing.
Remove the capacitor.
At this stage, you can check the oil level, its quality, identify the cause of jamming, etc. The engine block is assembled in the reverse order.

Replacement and repair of defective parts

Now that you know how the hydraulic machine is disassembled, you can try to repair the submersible pump with your own hands.

Basically, the blocking of the impellers occurs due to filling them with sand or due to the formation of dirt deposits on them. In addition, the impellers can be soldered together when high temperature in the unit when the pump is idling (dry running). To repair this section of the unit, the impeller(s) must be removed and accumulated dirt removed. If the impellers are damaged, they will need to be replaced with new ones.

Engine

Self-repair of the pump motor is not recommended, since the diagnosis of this unit and subsequent repair require special knowledge and the necessary equipment.

In some models of pumps, in order to remove the motor, it will be necessary to press it out using special equipment. Oil seal and bearing replacement also carried out in the service center.

If a engine hums and won't start then check the capacitor. It is located in the pump block in which the motor is installed.

Advice! Before disassembling the engine block, try to rotate its shaft with the pump block disconnected. If the shaft rotates, then the reason may lie in the jamming of the impellers.

But when the impeller shaft rotates without problems, then in order to remove the hum in the water pump, you should disconnect the capacitor and change it to a new one. Of course it's better check this part with a multimeter, since similar symptoms can be caused by a short circuit in the motor windings.

The water pump engine is located in a special glass filled with oil, and by its condition it is possible to determine some breakdowns in the electric motor unit.

The oil has a characteristic, unpleasant odor. This means that the engine is still in working condition, but it worked with large overloads.
cloudy oil- water has entered the motor housing due to a crack in the housing or failure of the stuffing box (cuff).
Black oil with an unpleasant odor. In this case, we can say with great certainty that the varnish on the engine coils burned.

Important! Normally, the oil should be clear. Its quantity is determined by the model of the unit. On average, the volume of oil poured into the chamber is at the level of 0.5 liters.

If, when opening the engine, the above changes in oil quality were noticed, then you first need to repair this unit, and only after that fill in new grease.

What is the phenomenon of cavitation

Everyone knows what is dissolved in water some gases. When a liquid moves at a certain speed, rarefaction zones sometimes form in it. In these zones of low pressure, gas bubbles begin to emerge from the water. After bubbles enter the zone high pressure they collapse. This process occurs with the release of a large amount of energy, from which the impellers and the pump snail are destroyed. The following photo shows the impeller of the unit, destroyed by cavitation.

The energy of collapsing bubbles can create shock waves causing vibration. It spreads throughout the unit and affects not only the impeller, but also the bearings, shaft and seals, from which these parts quickly become unusable.

The cavitation effect can most often be observed in pumping stations that operate on suction. In such systems, the impeller creates a vacuum, due to which water rises through the hose from the well. But if there is a lack of liquid at the inlet to the pump, then an excessive vacuum occurs in the impeller zone, provoking the occurrence of cavitation.

Important! The most obvious signs of cavitation are the vibration of the pipes and the pump itself, as well as increased noise during its operation. If no measures are taken to eliminate this process, it can completely destroy the station.

To prevent cavitation in the pumps, the rule should be followed: there should be more water at the inlet than at the outlet. This can be achieved in several ways:

move the device a little closer to the source;
you can increase the diameter of the suction pipe (hose);
to reduce the resistance in the suction section, the suction pipe can be replaced with a pipe made of a smoother material;
if there are many turns on the suction pipe, then, if possible, their number should be reduced;
it is desirable that all bends have large turning radii.

Advice! Do not lower the suction hose of the station into the well to a depth of more than 8 meters. Typically, the maximum immersion depth of the hose (pipe) is indicated in the equipment manual.

Unfortunately, even the most reliable pumping equipment can fail. Among the violations in the work there are serious breakdowns and banal wear of rubbing parts or seals. Correcting the simplest problems can be handled by a home master, but you must admit that even elementary repair operations need to be known how to properly carry out.

We are happy to help you master the difficult work of a home appliance repairer. The article brought to your attention describes in detail all the characteristic types of breakdowns of pumping units. Effective methods for eliminating failures in the operation of water supply installations are given.

Those who wish to repair the pumping station with their own hands will find answers to all questions that arise in such cases. Useful information backed up with step-by-step photo instructions, diagrams and videos.

With the help of a pumping station, you can solve several problems related to water supply:

organize the automatic flow of water from the source to the plumbing system of the house;
adjust the water pressure in the water supply, bringing it to an acceptable level;
protect the water supply system from water hammer;
to create some reserve of water in case of problems with water supply.

When troubleshooting a pumping station, it must be remembered that almost all models of surface pumps are not recommended to work in dry running mode. Before turning on the pump to check its operation, make sure that it is filled with water. If this is not the case, the device must be filled through a special filling hole.

“Dry running”, i.e. work without water, idling, is very dangerous for almost all models of surface pumps. Parts wear out a lot, the motor winding may burn out

#1: Pump is running, no water is flowing

If the pump turns on and you can see (hear) that it is working, but no water enters the tank, you should figure out exactly where this water goes. The first thing to check is . If it got bad, the water just poured back out. If there is water in the intake hose, then the check valve is not to blame for anything, you need to look for another reason.

If the hose is empty, it should be removed and the check valve inspected. It may happen that the pumping station does not pump water at all due to a simple clogging of the valve holes. It is enough to rinse the device so that it starts working correctly again.

Sometimes you need to replace the spring or the entire valve. Of course, after replacing a part or repairing, you should check the operation of individual components of the pumping station, and only then perform the final assembly and start-up of the device.

The check valve is necessary for the normal operation of the pumping station. If its holes are clogged, you just need to disassemble the device and rinse it

If there is water in the intake hose, you need to check all joints and pipes between the pump and the tank for leaks. Perhaps the water simply flows out through a crack or hole. A damaged pipe must be replaced, and a leaky connection must be cleaned, sealed and sealed again.

If the threaded connections of the pumping station become leaky and leak, they must be cleaned and resealed with suitable materials.

There is a third reason why water does not go to the hydraulic tank: the low debit of the water source. This happens if, for some reason, water does not enter the water intake part of the well or well.

This happens, for example, as a result of silting or sanding. Or the pump for the source is chosen incorrectly, it pumps out water too quickly, its reserves do not have time to recover.

How to choose, install and connect for a water intake development is described in the article, which we recommend that you read.

The pump will most likely need to be replaced, there are special models for low flow sources. To increase the flow rate of the well, it makes sense to pump it, i.e. wash away accumulated dirt. To flush the well, a separate pump should be used, and not the one that is equipped with a pumping station.

As an urgent measure, it is sometimes advised to draw water from greater depth, but this recommendation should be used with caution. If the source is sandy, immersing the water intake or submersible pump too deep can lead to contamination of the pumping equipment and its serious damage.

Another one possible reason through which the pump stopped pumping water - impeller wear. In this case, it will rotate idly. You will have to remove the pump, disassemble it, rinse it, replace the impeller, and possibly the pump housing. Sometimes it's easier to put in a new pump.

If the above “diagnoses” are not confirmed, it makes sense to simply check the voltage in the electrical network. If it is too low, the pump will turn on, but will not be able to supply water. It remains to establish a normal power supply so that the pumping equipment functions again in the desired mode.

#2: The device turns on but does not work

This happens with pumps that long time not used (for example, in winter). Since the clearance between the impeller and the housing is small, these elements, while stationary, can simply “stick” to each other.

When turned on, the pump will hum properly, but the impeller will remain stationary. In such a situation, the device should be turned off immediately.

The gap between the impellers (impeller) of the pump must be small. If the wheels are worn out, the gap will increase and the performance of the device will decrease, so it is better to replace the wheels with new ones.

To cope with this problem is not difficult, just turn the impeller a couple of times with your hands. If after turning on the pump operation resumed, then the obstacle has been removed.

Of course, before starting operation, a pump that has not been working for some time will not hurt to flush. Sometimes the impeller has nothing to do with it, the capacitor just failed. The damaged item must be replaced.

A burnt condenser is a common cause of breakdowns in a pumping station. It is not difficult to replace it with a new element with suitable characteristics.

#3: The pumping station is jerky

This behavior of technology is most often typical for situations where there are problems with pressure inside the hydraulic tank. First of all, you need to check the behavior of the pressure gauge. If the pump turns off as expected when water enters, but a sharp drop in internal pressure is soon observed, the problems should be looked for inside.

Most likely, the membrane in the accumulator has torn. It is easy to verify this: if you open the nipple located on the “air” side of the container, water will flow from it, not air.

The hydraulic tank should be dismantled, carefully disassembled, the damaged membrane removed and replaced with a new one, exactly the same. Trying to somehow repair a damaged liner is usually useless, it will quickly deteriorate again.

The sequence of work on replacing the hydraulic tank membrane is shown in the photo selection:

Image Gallery

Recently, pumps for wells have become popular. As soon as they appeared on the market, they were in great demand all over the world.

Even the most common pump models often fail. The pumps will have to be repaired as soon as possible. If you do not take action, then you will have to sit for a very long time without water in your dacha or country house. For example, let's take pumps from Gileks.

1 Most common pump failures

We all know that a pump is an ordinary device, a mechanism that does not differ in any complexity, but this judgment is only at first glance.

The pump consists of an engine, an impeller, and also in the middle of the pump there is a shaft, seals and all this closes the housing. The above parts are constantly in operation, which leads to gradual wear.

That is why it is necessary to occasionally repair the pump, since the device is constantly in operation and is in the water. Yes, not all pumps work in water, such as Gilex surface pumps, which work on the surface at the same time as hydraulic accumulators, which can also be installed separately on the surface.

But, Gileks surface pumps also need repairs. Let's take, for example, such a well-known manufacturer as. This device is in the water (well or well) constantly. Some of us do not even take it out for the winter, and this is a gross mistake.

The Gileks Water Jet pump has a lightweight design, and it is really easy to repair it yourself. But if you are not an expert in this, you will not only not repair it, but you can even damage the pump even worse. But if the situation is such that there is a slight breakdown of the pump on the face, then you can do it yourself.

The main thing who is going to repair submersible and surface pumps should understand their design, as well as how they are connected correctly. The most famous pump failures, which we will discuss separately in this article.

Check pumps are very easy and affordable.

For example, if the pump is connected to 220 W and it does not respond, then there is a breakdown with the contacts or with the supply wire. Solving this problem is easy, you just need to have a tester. They check the contacts of the pump. If there is no signal during the test, then the contact is damaged.
You should also pay attention to the contact, it may become damp or change color. If, when connecting 220 W, all mechanisms do not react, then the main cable is broken. This is the most common failure in water pumps. Their downside is that their cable is very poorly protected, and is constantly in limbo.
If during operation you notice a hum in the engine, uneven operation is felt, clicks are heard, this indicates that there are problems with the engine and the pump impeller. To finally understand this, you must first disassemble the pump and inspect it. It may be that the pump impeller simply cracked and the bearings flew out or failed. These are the most painful pump problems.
If you see that the engine does not work at all, then the problem is in it. And in this case, you will not be able to fix it with your own hands. Especially such a breakdown occurs in submersible models. If we disassemble a specific model, let's take the Vodomet 50/25 pump engine as an example, then it is not repaired or disassembled at all. In them, the winding can most often burn out. But replacing the winding in such models is a moot point. It is better if you have such a breakdown, replace the engine with a new one, as Gilex manufacturers are constantly replenishing the range of spare parts.

If we talk about Gilex Jumbo, then in such surface pumps the engine often burns out and quickly wears out. And all this happens from the dry running of the pump. Surface pumps are more likely to break down from dry running than, for example, submersible units.

Let's go back to the Gilex Jumbo pump. In it, breakdowns such as poor water pressure in the system occur. The main reasons for this are: the pressure switch does not work and the accumulator does not work, as well as general problems of the pump as a whole.

First, let's analyze the first breakdown, it is the relay that goes astray.

It is easy and simple to check its performance, and if you notice that everything is not so smooth with it, it is very easy to set up. If we talk about hydraulic accumulators, then there are the following breakdowns:

Rupture of the air membrane. And we can only check this when we disassemble the tank. If there is a large amount of air in the membrane, then the system is completely unbalanced, as a result of which the pressure drops.

The pump itself can also react badly, but this happens very rarely. Most often, working elements come out of the pump, and the pump simply does not cope with its task of pumping water. And if the working elements of the pump come out, during operation you notice a hum, the impeller does not rotate well. If there are other signs of a breakdown, then most likely the relay or hydraulic accumulator has failed.

2 We repair the pump depending on the manufacturer's model

The time has come to consider the actual pumping equipment. Here it is necessary to distinguish between the repair of a submersible pump and the repair of a surface unit. First, consider the common model of the Water Jet pump. Such a pump Water cannon related to the submersible model is available in several positions and configurations.

For example, configurations such as 40/50, 55/35,110/110. The main difference between them is the size and equipment. As a result, they have the same design. You need to start repairing the Water Jet pump by disassembling it. To do this, the Vodomet pump is removed from the well, it must be turned off from the network and only dry it needs to be repaired.

Disassembly steps:

As mentioned above, dry the pump, then carefully remove the housing and cover on the pump.
Next, using a vice, remove the water intake mechanisms. Everything is done carefully, since the body of the unit is hollow.
After that, you need to disassemble the pumping part, and if you find a breakdown there, then it will not be difficult for you to fix it at that stage with your own hands. If not, then move on to the engine.
In order to remove the engine, you need to carefully remove the snap ring, since it is plastic, and it will not be damaged.
Then, as soon as we got to the engine, we gradually pull out the wires, inspect them for burnt wires.
After that, if everything is fine, you need to pour non-toxic oil into the engine and assemble the unit in the same order as it was disassembled.

Remember!! Oil in the pump engine must be filled with harmless oil.

For these cases, glycerin is suitable, it does not pollute the water. And after that, in disassembled form, it is very easy to troubleshoot the pump with your own hands. If you notice broken contacts, then it is better to solder them, or wipe them with an alcohol solution. And if the contacts are broken at all, then it is better to replace them.

If the problem is in the engine, then it is better not to repair it yourself, but to give it to a specialist who can give you a guarantee for its work in the future. As a result, we see that repairing the Water Jet pump is easy and will not be difficult for you. And most importantly, it does not matter what type of Water Cannon you have chosen, since the principle of spare parts and the device are almost the same.

According to a different principle of repair, a surface pump of the Gileks Jumbo type operates. Here it is much more complicated, and it is necessary to solve specifically the breakdown. If your pump is malfunctioning, then you definitely need to repair it, remove the housing and check all systems one by one.

Stages of work:

First, you need to turn off the pump and accumulator from electricity 220 watts.
Then drain the liquid that remains in the hose.
We remove the housing by unscrewing the bolts.
Be sure to remove all moving parts of the housing, and only then disassemble the pump chamber.
After that, remove the impeller and seals.
Carefully pull out the engine.
Now let's look at the wires. And after that, if everything is fine, we assemble the pump in the same sequence as we disassembled it.

We remind you!!! that the problem with the breakdown of pumps can be at any stage of disassembly.

The advantage of surface pumps is that their body is not solid and can be removed in parts. Details in it are turned off and not removed sequentially, which is a plus. Did you disassemble the pump and see a problem with the impeller and consumables? They are not repaired, but completely replaced with new ones.

If you decide to look at the contacts, it is better to get there through the engine's camera. To disassemble the accumulator, the hose is first disconnected, and then the plates are removed by unscrewing. Pull out the membrane and inspect it.

It is better not to repair the relay with your own hands, as it is very vulnerable and can be easily damaged during repairs.

2.1 Do-it-yourself pump repair Gileks Water Jet - video

Submersible pump "Vodomet" - this unit is on a par with the well-known "Kid" and "Brook" - brands whose name has been transformed into a proper name, denoting a whole niche market for small and simple pumps for autonomous wells.

At the same time, all the above-mentioned units attract the consumer not only with a moderate price and noticeable performance, but also with the ease with which repairs are carried out that restore the pumps to working capacity.

Therefore, in this article we will consider the repair of the Gileks Vodomet pump using the model 60/52 as an example. In a word, we invite you to evaluate the simplicity of the design solution of this unit, and get acquainted with the secrets of its repair. Perhaps this will determine your preferences when choosing a pump for an autonomous water supply.

Borehole pumps "Vodomet": an overview of the typical design

The base of any pump is the casing. And this part of the "Vodomet" unit is made in the form of a metal cylinder. It is in it that the engine is mounted, on the shaft of which the impeller is put on.

Moreover, the impeller is separated from the engine compartment by a special insert through which the shaft passes. In turn, the impeller itself consists of a repeating set of disks, alternating in the following order:

1 - The first white disk with external blades, 2 - The first black washer, the same diameter as the white disk, 3 - The first "glass" with internal blades, 4 - The second white disk with blades, 5 - The second washer, 6 - The third white disk with blades, 7 - Second "glass" with internal blades, 8 - Third washer, 9 - Fourth disk with external blades, 10 - Third "glass" with internal blades, 11 - Fourth washer, 12 - Fourth "glass" with internal blades, 13 - Fifth washer, 14 - White plug with perforation in the center, 15 -
Black cap with a round hole in the center, 16 - Short cylinder with mesh at the bottom - filter element

This is how any Water Cannon pump works. That is, a similar alternation of discs, washers and “glasses” is also present in models designed to work in a 5-meter water column (series 60/32, 150/30), and in devices submerged up to 20-40 meters (series 60 /52, 150/45). When assembling, a small anti-friction washer (blue and white color). All other elements - and washers, and disks, and "glasses" - are made of polyamide.

This pump is designed for vertical installation in the clean water column, which is quite typical for all submersible units of the Vodomet brand. Moreover, its design practically does not differ from similar products from another model range of this brand. Therefore, the repair procedure applicable to the model 60/52 can be extended to other pumps from.

Repair of the pump "Vodomet" 60/52: how it's done

Submersible pumps fail for three reasons:

Firstly, in case of silting of the impeller.
Secondly, in the event of a break in the electrical cable.
Thirdly, in case of failure of the components of the engine compartment (stator or rotor).

Moreover, when diagnosing a problem, one should be guided by the following rules:

If during the test run the shaft rotates at the pump extracted from the well, then the impeller is the problem area. Clean it of sludge and the pump can be assembled in the reverse order.
If the pump does not even turn on, then you need to check (ring the tester) the power cable. If there is voltage at the engine compartment terminals, then the cable is intact. Well, if not, then it will have to be replaced with a new one. Finding a break and fixing it with twisting or soldering is far from the most best idea. After all, the tightness of the cable will still be violated.
If everything is in order with the cable, then the problem is in the engine. And the pump will have to be disassembled to the engine compartment, to extract and rewind the stator or rotor.

And in each case, the repair of the unit begins with a complete disassembly.

A short cylinder with a perforated bottom is screwed from the end of the pump - a filter element that protects the impeller from silting.
Next, all washers, "glasses" and disks are removed from the pump motor shaft, in the reverse order described above (in the overview of the impeller design). Moreover, all the numerous elements should be laid on a flat area of the workbench in the order of extraction from the body. After all, the impeller consists of 16 parts. And that's not counting the same number of anti-friction washers.
Further disassembly to the level of the engine compartment begins with the removal of the engine retaining ring that closes its cover. To do this, by hitting the top fitting with a mallet, move the engine down, then, pulling the cord, return it to its place. Moreover, after all the manipulations, the sealing ring will remain in the “shifted” position. Next, the retaining ring is displaced by blowing with a screwdriver into the part closest to the body. The stopper will warp, after which it can be removed.
After that, you need to disconnect the wires by opening the cover of the corresponding compartment, and, using a screwdriver and a mallet, “knock out” the engine from the case.

After being removed from the housing, the impeller elements are washed and dried, and the engine is sent for diagnostics and repair to a specialized workshop. After cleaning the impeller and updating the engine, the Vodomet 60/52 pump is assembled in the reverse order to that described above.

It is usually created using a pumping station. It is clear that it is better if it works without problems, but breakdowns happen from time to time. To quickly restore the water supply and save on services, you can repair the pumping station with your own hands. Most of the breakdowns can be fixed on their own - you don’t have to do anything super complicated.

The composition of the pumping station and the purpose of the parts

A pumping station is a collection of separate devices interconnected. To understand how to repair a pumping station, you need to know what it consists of, how each of the parts works. Then troubleshooting is easier. The composition of the pumping station:

Each of the parts is responsible for a certain parameter, but one type of malfunction can be caused by the failure of various devices.

The principle of operation of the pumping station

Now let's look at how all these devices work. When the system is first started, the pump pumps water into the accumulator until the pressure in it (and in the system) equals the upper threshold set on the pressure switch. While there is no water flow, the pressure is stable, the pump is off.

A faucet was opened somewhere, the water was drained, etc. For a while, water comes from the accumulator. When its quantity decreases so much that the pressure in the accumulator drops below the threshold, the pressure switch is activated and turns on the pump, which pumps water again. It turns off again, the pressure switch, when the upper threshold is reached - the shutdown threshold.

If there is a constant flow of water (a bath is taken, watering the garden / vegetable garden is turned on), the pump works for a long time: until the required pressure is created in the accumulator. This happens periodically even when all taps are open, since the pump supplies less water than flows out of all points of analysis. After the flow has stopped, the station works for some time, creating the required reserve in the gyroaccumulator, then it turns off and on after the water flow appears again.

Problems and malfunctions of pumping stations and their correction

All pumping stations consist of the same parts and their breakdowns are mostly typical. It makes no difference whether the equipment is Grundfos, Jumbo, Alco or any other company. Diseases and their treatment are the same. The difference is how often these malfunctions occur, but their list and causes are usually identical.

The pumping station does not turn off (does not gain pressure)

Sometimes you notice that the pump has been running for a long time and will not turn off in any way. If you look at the pressure gauge, you can see that the pumping station is not gaining pressure. In this case, the repair of the pumping station is a lengthy business - you will have to sort out a large number of reasons:

If the shutdown limit of the pressure switch is much lower than the maximum pressure that the pump can create, and for some time it worked normally, but then it stopped, the reason is different. Possibly the pump the impeller worked. Immediately after the purchase, he coped, but during the operation the impeller was worn out and "now there is not enough strength." Repair of the pumping station in this case is the replacement of the pump impeller or the purchase of a new unit.

Another possible reason is low voltage in the network. Maybe the pump is still working at this voltage, but the pressure switch is no longer working. The solution is a voltage stabilizer. These are the main reasons that the pumping station does not turn off and does not build up pressure. There are quite a few of them, so the repair of the pumping station may be delayed.

Repair of the pumping station: often included

Frequent switching on of the pump and short periods of its operation lead to rapid wear of the equipment, which is very undesirable. Therefore, the repair of the pumping station should be carried out immediately after the discovery of the "symptom". This situation occurs for the following reasons:

Now you know why the pumping station often turns on and what to do about it. By the way, there is another possible reason - pipeline leakage or some connection, so if all of the above does not apply to your case, check if the joint is leaking somewhere.

Air in water

There is always a small amount of air in the water, but when the faucet starts to “spit”, something is not working properly. There can also be several reasons:

The pump station does not turn on

The first thing to check is voltage. Pumps are very demanding on voltage, they simply do not work at low voltage. If everything is fine with the voltage, things are worse - most likely the motor is faulty. In this case, the station is carried to a service center or a new pump is installed.

If the system does not work, you need to check the electrical part

Other reasons include a plug / socket malfunction, a frayed cord, burnt / oxidized contacts at the point where the electrical cable is attached to the motor. This is something you can check and fix yourself. A more serious repair of the electrical part of the pumping station is carried out by specialists.

The motor hums but does not pump water (the impeller does not rotate)

This error may be caused low voltage in the network. Check it, if everything is normal, move on. You need to check if it's burned out. capacitor in terminal block. We take, check, change if necessary. If this is not the reason, go to the mechanical part.

First you should check if there is water in the well or well. Next, check the filter and check valve. Maybe they are clogged or defective. Clean, check the performance, lower the pipeline into place, start the pumping station again.

We check the impeller - this is already a serious repair of the pumping station

If that doesn't help, the impeller may be jammed. Then try manually turning the shaft. Sometimes, after a long period of inactivity, it "sticks" - it becomes overgrown with salts and cannot move itself. If you cannot move the blades by hand, the impeller may have jammed. Then we continue the repair of the pumping station by removing the protective cover and unlocking the impeller.

Some types of repair work

Some do-it-yourself pumping station repair steps are intuitive. For example, it is not difficult to clean a check valve or filter, but it can be difficult to replace a membrane or a pear in a hydraulic accumulator without preparation.

Replacing the "pear" of the accumulator

The first sign that the membrane is damaged is the frequent and short-term switching on of the pumping station, and the water is supplied in fits and starts: sometimes strong pressure, sometimes weak. To make sure that the diaphragm is the problem, remove the plug on the nipple. If not air comes out of it, but water, then the membrane has torn.

To start the repair, disconnect the system from the power supply, relieve pressure - open the taps and wait for the water to drain. After that, it can be turned off.

Loosen the flange at the bottom of the tank. We are waiting for the water to drain.
We unscrew all the bolts, remove the flange.
If the tank is from 100 liters or more, unscrew the membrane holder nut at the top of the tank.
We take out the membrane through the hole in the bottom of the container.
We wash the tank - it usually has a lot of rusty sediment.
The new membrane must be exactly the same as the damaged one. We insert a fitting into it, with which the upper part is attached to the body (we twist it).
We install the membrane in the accumulator tank.
If there is, install the membrane holder nut at the top. With a large tank size, you can’t reach it with your hand. You can tie the holder to the rope and so install the part in place by screwing the nut.
We tighten the neck and press it with a flange, install the bolts, successively twisting them several turns.
We connect to the system and check the work.

Replacement of the pumping station membrane is completed. It's a simple matter, but you need to know the nuances.