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How to make an absorbing pit with your own hands. Do-it-yourself cesspool without regular pumping of domestic wastewater

How to make an absorbing pit with your own hands. Do-it-yourself cesspool without regular pumping of domestic wastewater

To date, there are a huge number of options and methods for installing a cesspool without pumping. Of course, in some sense this is impossible, since sooner or later the solid particles will have to be removed, but there are ways to build and means to delay the date of calling the sewers for many years. In our article, we will consider the question of how to make a sump without the need for regular cleaning.

To date, there are many ways and methods for arranging a full-fledged sewer system. If we consider the classification of cesspools, then there are three such types:

sealed pits;
Without the need for pumping;
Septic.

Practice shows that the most popular option today is a sump storage tank. What does this mean? This pit does not have a bottom, so there is no need to clean it with a cesspool machine. Although, it is worth saying that there is also a huge minus, since the soil is polluted.

Advantages and disadvantages of cesspools without pumping

A cesspool without pumping is the easiest option for draining wastewater. Besides, this device has a number of such advantages:

Simplicity of design, which makes it possible to build pits with your own hands;
Variability of materials for installation work;
More rare call of cesspools;
Low price and production costs.

Looking at all the advantages of this cesspool, you might think that this is an ideal system, but like all others, it has flaws in operation. Namely, such as:

The difficulty of choosing a place for a pit in accordance with the rules and regulations;
Over time, the absorption capacity decreases;
Bad smell;
The pit is dangerous to the environment;
If biological bacteria are used, it is unacceptable for chemicals to enter the sewer.

Choosing a place for a pit without pumping

The cesspool should be located on the site of the house, which it will serve. It is worth considering that in our case it is a sump without a bottom, which has even more requirements and prohibitions. Let's get acquainted with all the rules for the location of the pit:

The distance from the pit to the water supply of the house should exceed 10 meters, and to the well or well - 20 meters. This action will protect the water supply of your home from possible overflows of sewer system effluents.
The distance between the sump and the buildings of neighbors should be more than 12 meters. If you do not comply with this regulation, then the foundation of the neighbor's house may collapse.
The segment from the fence to the pit cannot be less than one meter;
The depth of the sump is more than 3 meters.

Important! Only by following all the rules, you can protect yourself from liability before the law.

Do-it-yourself mounting materials

To create a pit with our own hands, we need a lot of tools and materials. Which ones we will now find out. So:

A ladder that is as big as a hole;
Bayonet and shovel;
Bucket and other tanks;
Trowel, construction purpose;
Pegs to mark the edges;
Building level.

The cesspool has a different structure and design. This, first of all, is influenced by what material for the base you choose. To date, most often a sump without pumping is built from the following materials:

From concrete parts;
Wood treated with resin;
Clay brick;
Reinforced concrete rings;
utility material.

Do-it-yourself construction of a cesspool

One of the questions that torments many homeowners is how to make sure that the pit does not require pumping. It occurs especially sharply when building a sump with your own hands. Before starting the installation of the structure, you need to find out the type of soil in your area and calculate the volume of effluents.

Sewerage in its waste generally always contains impurities of solid particles that are not absorbed by the ground. It is for this reason that your cesspool will need to be pumped out. This septic tank technology is designed for natural filtration. Therefore, the type of soil is very important.

Attention! If you see that the runoff has slowed down, we recommend making several holes in the walls of the system.

We have already said that the type of soil greatly affects the functioning of the sump. It happens because of that. That they have different densities and speeds of water passage. For example, if your site has clay soil, then the drains will seep through its layers for a very long time and as a result, the pit will be overflowing. In such situations, you need to install an additional outlet. The principle of operation is that when the first pit overflows, then the drains overflow through the pipe into the second.

This type of sump can be equated to a filtration well, because the pit also accumulates and cleans the liquid with the help of soil. What cannot seep through the ground must be pumped out periodically with sewage trucks. It is worth considering that the maximum depth for the sump should not exceed 3 meters. Otherwise, the hoses will not be able to reach the silt.

The dimensions and design features of the cesspool depend only on the consumption of fluid in a particular house. Based on this, the volume for the pit is calculated as follows: the average water consumption by one person per day - 200 liters is multiplied by the number of people living.

Pit made of concrete rings

The most optimal option for a private house or cottage is a construction of concrete rings. Its huge plus is durability, and besides, you can build it yourself. It is worth noting that the walls of the sump can be made of a different material, but they are less reliable and durable. It is for this reason that the design of the rings is the most popular.

Stages of erecting a pit from concrete rings

As with the construction of any other septic tank, it all starts with digging a foundation pit, that is, earthworks. They can be done by hand or with the help of specialized equipment. It is best to carry out this stage during the construction of the foundation of the house in order to save on the services of heavy equipment. Using a mechanized method, the structure and concrete rings are mounted by a crane. In this case, it is very important to correlate the sizes of the elements.

But if you decide to build a device with your own hands, the installation technology is different. We will talk about this now. At self installation you need to follow the following procedure:

On the selected place, we place one ring and dig the earth inside it;
We level the bottom of the first ring with the ground line, after that we begin the installation of subsequent concrete components;
The number of circles is determined by the depth sewer pipes;
The best material for this process are devices made of concrete elements with perforated walls;
If the perforation is not in the device, then it will have to be done independently. To do this, you need to withstand the following parameters: diameter - 5 cm, distance - 20 cm from each other in the form of a chess field.
We cover the bottom of the pit with a layer of sand and gravel of 30 cm;
We create holes at the input of the pipeline;
We put the pipe so that the distance from the concrete walls is 20 cm;
After that, the check valve is installed;
Fill hole with mortar

Attention! Very often, a filtration well is installed near such a pit, which improves wastewater treatment.

Cesspool cover

To perform such an action as floors, you can use either a factory or any other concrete slab. We can buy it in the same place where the rings are sold. But it is worth noting that the cover can be made independently. To do this, you will need cement, sand, crushed stone and rebar. All actions are performed in the following sequence:

We make markings with pegs and pull the cord;
Checking the diagonals
We remove the soil around the entire perimeter to the upper ring;
We block the ring with reinforcement in two to three places;
We forgive a sheet of tin, which we cover with a film on top;
Reinforcing bars are placed at a step of 25 cm;
For all work, there is a mandatory reinforcement piping;
Installing a ventilation system
And install the finished cover design.

This method of building a cesspool without pumping dates guarantees a hundred years of life. However, remember that periodically it will be necessary to remove solid particles that linger on the bottom.

Sewerage is one of the most important benefits of civilization. Without sewerage, washing, showering, taking a bath and going to the toilet are accompanied by difficulties and inconveniences. But it is not always possible to connect to a centralized sewer system - it is not available for remote villages, summer cottages and cottage villages. The way out of the problem is the arrangement of their own facilities for the collection, treatment and disposal of wastewater. The simplest and cheapest solution is to build a cesspool without a bottom with your own hands.

How is a cesspool without a bottom

There are two types of cesspools:

sealed;
leaky, without a bottom;

The first are the simplest structures made of concrete, brick or plastic, completely waterproof. They collect liquid and solid waste coming through the sewer pipe. Regularly, on average 1-2 times a month, the sewage machine should pump them out of the sealed drain pit. The services of such specialists are expensive, because some owners are thinking about how to partially dispose of sewage with the help of soil purification.

And the simplest option is leaky cesspools. They are a shallow well, assembled from bricks, old tires or concrete rings. They do not have a sealed bottom - either the soil itself is located there, or a filter pad made of sand, gravel or crushed stone. Also, many holes are created in the walls of the cesspool for the purpose of drainage. Through them and the bottom, liquid sewage partially goes into the ground and undergoes natural soil post-treatment. The rest remains in the well and is pumped out by a sewage machine 1-2 times a year.

You may be interested in information about what it looks like

Such a structure is suitable for solving the problem of waste in a country house visited during spring and summer, or for a village house where 1-2 people live. For a large family without a bottom, they are not an effective and environmentally safe solution - in this case, it is preferable to build from several concrete wells.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool without a bottom

Let's briefly consider what is good and bad design of a leaky cesspool. Its advantages include the following.

The extremely low price of the structure compared to the cost of a full-fledged septic tank - both factory-made and home-made, built from rings or monolithic concrete.
Ease of creation - a pit and a trench are dug under the pipe, the walls of the cesspool and the lid are installed, the connection is made. Without any problems, all these activities can be performed independently.
The speed of construction - it is quite possible to equip a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings in a couple of days.
Lower costs compared to a sealed cesspool - you can call a sewage truck not every month, but only 1-2 times a year.

Due to its simplicity and maximum cheapness, such a sewer structure has serious drawbacks.

Environmental problems - if one is placed near the source drinking water, then over time the latter may become unusable - sewage seeping through the soil will poison it with E. coli and other microorganisms. It is possible to drink from such a well, but it is not safe.
Possibility of conflict with neighbors - those who live near you are unlikely to enjoy the existence of a potential source of pollution. But, as practice shows, this is a problem only for well-maintained cottage settlements and garden partnerships - in other places, most likely, neighbors have the same or even simpler facilities for collecting sewage.
Problems with SES. If the sanitary and epidemiological service comes to your site with a check, then it may consider that you have a cesspool with seepage of sewage into the soil as a violation of the norms, with corresponding consequences.
The fragility of work - it should be understood that such a cesspool is unable to function for a long time - over time, the soil around it will silt up and stop passing water in the same volume. As a result, the structure will fill up with drains faster, so you will have to move it to a new location or replace it with a full-fledged septic tank. Or more often turn to the services of vacuum cleaners.

Choosing a location for the cesspool

It was mentioned several times above that a cesspool without a bottom is not the best solution in terms of ecology and compliance with sanitary standards. But a competent choice of a place for its construction will minimize possible risks and avoid poisoning of reservoirs and wells.

It is worth saying that the current sanitary and building standards do not give a clear answer to the question of the admissibility or, conversely, the inadmissibility of building a cesspool without a bottom. Below are some excerpts from various documents.

So, an unsealed cesspool, if possible, should be created on soils with good water permeability and in places where the level ground water at least 1 meter below the bottom.

The list below gives the minimum distances between a similar structure and various objects:

from the cesspool to the drinking well - at least 50 m;
to the reservoir - at least 30 m;
to trees and gardens - at least 5 m;
to the road or the border of the site - from 2 to 4 m;
to residential buildings - 5 m.

Advice! Before starting construction, familiarize yourself with how the facilities for collecting sewage from the nearest neighbors are arranged. Also, if the case takes place in the country, discuss this issue with the chairman of the partnership. This will avoid unnecessary conflicts and reduce the likelihood of a visit from the sanitary service to your site.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings

The most popular material for self-arranging cesspools without a bottom, drainage wells and septic tanks are concrete rings. They have sufficient strength for such a structure, their installation does not take much time, and the low price makes these products affordable for any household. The process of making a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings with your own hands is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Important! Before starting excavation work, determine how many concrete rings, and what size you need. For convenience, the main characteristics of the most popular products are summarized in the table.

Table. Dimensions, weight and volume of concrete rings made in accordance with GOST 8020-90.

Name	Inner diameter, m	External diameter, m	Height, m	Weight, kg	Internal volume, m3
COP10.3	1	1,16	0,29	≈200	≈0,3
COP10.6	1	1,16	0,59	≈400	≈0,62
COP10.9	1	1,16	0,89	≈600	≈0,94
COP15.6	1	1,68	0,59	≈660	≈1,3
COP15.9	1,5	1,68	0,89	≈1000	≈1,97
COP20.6	2	2,2	0,59	≈970	≈2,24
COP20.9	2	2,2	0,89	≈1480	≈3,38

Step 1. Start the construction of a cesspool without a bottom by determining the place where it will be located. This is discussed in more detail in the previous section of the article.

Step 2 At the selected location, mark and define the boundaries of the future pit. Its diameter is made 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete ring.

Step 3 Start the actual extraction of the soil. If the cesspool is supposed to be shallow, and there is enough time, then earthwork can be done manually. It is advisable to do this in pairs - one digs, and the other lifts the extracted soil up. The work is greatly facilitated when using a bucket with a strong rope and a garden wheelbarrow (or walk-behind tractor).

Important! If, when digging a pit by hand, it turns out that the soil is prone to crumbling, then for reasons of your own safety, work should be stopped immediately. Otherwise, there is a risk of suddenly being covered with earth. In such situations, you will have to involve an excavator.

Step 4 Regularly measure the depth of the pit with a tape measure. For cesspools without a bottom, this depth does not exceed 3 m. Also remember that there must be a distance of at least 1 m (preferably more) between sewer drains and groundwater.

Step 5 Delivery of concrete rings is usually carried out by the manufacturer, while they are brought on a truck with a crane. Check the availability of all ordered products and their quality.

Step 6 With the help of a crane-manipulator, immerse the first concrete ring into the pit.

The ring is lowered into the pit

Important! For better fixation of the rings with each other, apply cement mortar to their ends before laying a new product.

Step 7 In the same way, put the second and subsequent rings on the first ring. At the same time align them relative to each other.

Step 8 Complete the laying of concrete products with the installation of the upper round slab, in which a hole is cut out for the hatch.

Step 9 In loamy conditions, effective drainage will require a large contact area. If you live in an area where the soil does not absorb water well, drill a series of medium-sized drainage holes in the bottom of the cesspool. Their total area should reach 10% of the total area of the internal surface of the structure.

Important! Often, a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm is poured into the bottom of such a cesspool. Its use allows at least a little cleaning of the sewage that goes into the ground. At the same time, the filler of such a pillow requires regular replacement or washing, which is not the most pleasant and easy job. Each homeowner must decide for himself what is more important for him - the ability not to pollute the surrounding land and groundwater too much, or the absence of the need to go down to the cesspool and replace the crushed stone filter pad. Instead of the latter, you can use ordinary sand.

Step 11 Fill the space between the walls of the pit and the concrete rings with earth or sand.

Step 10 Complete the arrangement of a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings by connecting a sewer pipe and installing a hatch.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Video - Cesspool

Construction of a cesspool without a brick bottom

Another, no less popular option for a cesspool is a brick structure. It should be understood that it will require more time and effort than the construction of concrete rings. But if you have a lot of unused bricks left on your site after building a house, a fence or a barn, then it makes sense to put them into action and make a cesspool without a bottom completely with your own hands, without involving third-party people and construction equipment. It will help you in this matter. step-by-step instruction with photographs below.

Step 1. The construction of a brick cesspool, like any other sewer structure, start with earthworks - choose a place and start digging a pit of the appropriate size.

Important! The presence of a simple lifting device will greatly facilitate the process of extracting soil from the pit.

Step 2 Check the depth and diameter of the pit with a tape measure.

Step 3 Get rid of the earth excavated during the construction of the pit. At the same time, leave a part of it for the subsequent backfilling of the cover of the structure.

Step 4 At the bottom of the pit, build a flat ring of bricks, as in the image below. It will play the role of a kind of foundation under the walls of the cesspool.

Step 5 Proceed to laying the lower part of the walls of the brick cesspool. If you have not previously dealt with such material, then the construction of this structure will be a good practice for you, during which you will gain basic skills in working with bricks.

Important! Silicate bricks absorb water well and at the same time gradually collapse. If you want the cesspool to last longer, replace them with ceramic ones.

Step 6 Continue laying and climb higher and higher, to the edge of the pit. Fill the space between its walls and the brick with sand - it absorbs water well and partially filters it before it enters the ground.

Step 7 Finish laying the walls of the cesspool of bricks, not reaching a little to the surface of the earth.

Step 8 Lead the sewer pipe out of the house into the cesspool.

Step 9 Reinforce the pit with a metal bracket installed as shown in the image below. Instead, it is allowed to use a wooden beam, but the latter will not last too long - over time, the material in an aggressive environment will begin to collapse and rot.

Step 10 Fold the same flat ring of brick on top as at the bottom of the cesspool.

Step 11 Seal the cesspool on top with a concrete slab, prefabricated or poured on site. Do not forget about the hole for the hatch, through which sewage will be regularly pumped out.

A cesspool without a bottom is a quick and economical solution to the problem of sewage disposal. But, if possible, replace it over time with a full-fledged septic tank produced at the factory or.

If a person lives in a house, it must have sewerage, since waste products still need to be disposed of somehow. And it's hard to disagree with that, isn't it? The modern industry offers many solutions: from multi-section septic tanks to neat dry closets. But the usual cesspool in a private house is still relevant and in demand.

But, before proceeding with the construction of a cesspool on the site, you will have to weigh the pros and cons. After all, an incorrectly chosen place, and the design of the cesspool itself, subsequently, threatens to turn into many problems. The most common of these is the appearance of an unpleasant odor. We will tell you how to avoid this problem.

In the article, we have collected and summarized information about the types and design features of cesspools. In addition, here you can find helpful tips and recommendations on how to choose and build a sewer on the site. The material is accompanied by thematic photos and videos.

A cesspool is perhaps the oldest and simplest type of sewage. It is a depression in the ground, in which accumulate and partially recycle wastewater.

Any drain contains a certain amount of bacteria that absorb and transform these accumulations. Part of the filtered effluent passes into the underlying soil.

Everything that has not been recycled and has not gone into the underlying layers should be periodically removed from the cesspool so that the container does not overflow.

Image Gallery

The simplest facilities for the disposal of sewage are cesspools. However, among them there are options that differ from each other in terms of design, principle of operation and efficiency. A properly equipped cesspool made of concrete rings without a bottom can become a very convenient device, the need for cleaning which will occur much less frequently than during the operation of conventional storage tanks.

All types of sewer tanks of this type can be divided into several main types.

At the same time, there are some limitations in terms of the possibility of installing such a treatment plant.

Water through the filter will freely go into the ground only if if the soil on the site is sandy, loose, with good moisture permeability. Clay or loam may allow runoff to pass at first, but will soon become an almost airtight barrier.
Another condition is low level of groundwater. It is believed that groundwater should run no closer than 50-100 cm from the bottom of the treatment structure to avoid mixing with contaminated wastewater and spreading harmful substances.

The choice of the volume of tanks of any type is normalized by sanitary norms and rules and must be at least the daily volume of effluents multiplied by 3. This amount can be calculated based on the norms of water consumption per person - 200 liters per day. Obviously, the minimum volume of a cesspool for a summer residence may be less due to the frequency of its use. At the same time, it should be remembered that the smaller the volume of the tank, the more often you will have to call a sewage truck and pay for its services.

Important: Installation of a cesspool from concrete rings without a bottom is possible only if the volume of daily drains does not exceed 1 m³.

In pits without a bottom and in two-chamber models, you can use those that contribute to the decomposition of organic impurities. This will help to reduce the rate of filling the tanks.

Installation location

A do-it-yourself cesspool from concrete rings can not be built anywhere. It is especially difficult to choose a place on a site with difficult terrain.

On the one hand, placing the treatment plant at the lowest point increases the risk of groundwater contamination.
On the other hand, by placing it on a hill, it is difficult to provide the necessary slope of the sewer pipeline (2 cm per meter of length).

There are also sanitary and building codes that stipulate the necessary disposal treatment facilities from the main objects. When deciding how to make a cesspool out of concrete rings, it should be remembered that an entrance for a sewage truck will be needed to clean it, at the same time, the structure should not be located closer than 2 meters from the main road.

The minimum distance from the cesspool to other objects is:

to the front door of the house and to any of the windows - at least 5 meters,
to the source of drinking water - at least 30 m,
to fruit trees and a garden - at least 5 meters.

Installation of cesspools from concrete rings

The construction of a cesspool from concrete rings requires the involvement of lifting equipment, for example, a truck crane. can have a different diameter (up to 2 meters, but models with a diameter of 1 meter are more often used), but in any case they are too heavy to be installed manually in the pit.

Rental of special equipment requires additional costs, however, the use of ready-made blocks significantly reduces the time of work. The installation of the rings, the supply pipe and the coating of the tank walls with a sealing compound can be completed within one working day. After that, it is important to withstand the curing time of the sealing compounds before proceeding with the backfill.

When building a model with a bottom (accumulator), a certain time may be required for solidification and curing of the concrete-filled screed. Only after that you can install rings on it.

Installation of cesspools has its own nuances depending on the design features.

Is organization possible? We have discussed this issue in a separate article.

Instructions for arranging a cesspool from automobile wheels are located. This option is one of the easiest to implement.

We talked about the types of storm sewer trays on this page.

General rules for the installation of cesspools from concrete rings

When constructing such treatment facilities, it is important to follow certain rules and advice.

Effluent pumping

The device of a drain pit made of concrete rings provides for a hole in the top cover for installation ventilation pipe, as well as hatches for pumping out the contents. Hatches, like the lids themselves, must be insulated, otherwise the top layer of the contents will freeze in the cold season, which will complicate the pumping process.

To control the filling level in expensive volatile septic tanks and local treatment plants, automatic systems and sensors are used. In conventional cesspools, it is not difficult to monitor the level using a float device.

A cesspool device made of concrete rings is shown in the video.

A cesspool is a special recess in the ground designed to collect sewage and other human waste in those houses that are not connected to the drainage system through pipelines.

Today we will look at one of the most popular designs of drain pits - a pit without pumping.

Device

The device of the cesspool begins with the choice of a suitable place. There are three key rules that are used to select the optimal location:

the pit should be at least 12 meters away from the nearest house where people live;
from the pit itself to the place of the fence, the distance should be no more than 1 meter;
the distance to groundwater should be taken into account, it should be over 30 meters.

After that, they begin to calculate the optimal size, and there are also several patterns here:

calculate the number of residents, as well as the average rate of water consumption per person (approximately 180 l), calculate the monthly value of the volume of wastewater;
taking into account the soil where the pit will be located, it should be taken into account that those soil types that easily pass liquid make it possible to accept only 40% of the monthly volume, and the soil that does not conduct water well will force the volume of the pit to increase above the calculated value;
it should be remembered that the soil layer should be at least 1 meter;
the optimum depth is about 3 meters.

materials

Now the most widespread types of materials used in the construction of a cesspool are:

bricks;
reinforced concrete rings - similar to those used in wells. So, you can do;
tractor;
special hermetic containers made of polypropylene and other polymeric materials, but are the most expensive means.

Scheme

In general, the scheme of the cesspool looks something like this: the pit itself represents a pit in the soil of a certain size, in the middle of which, in order to maintain its original shape, as well as to prevent the walls from crumbling, there are solid materials such as bricks, reinforced concrete rings, etc. around the perimeter of the pit. Outside, directly between the soil itself and the outer wall of the pit, there is a layer of clay called "clay castle".

A prerequisite is the presence of a vent equipped with a pipe for removing gases generated by fermentation processes in the pit. The final and most important detail is the presence of a hatch that will provide access to the pit for its regular.

Manufacturing instructions

Consider the 3 most simple options for building a pit.

from brick

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit with a brick lining:

to begin with, with the help of a thread and stakes, mark the selected area - on average, the parameters of the pit are 1 by 1.5 meters;
to fill the pit at the end of the work, about 1.5-2 cubic meters of soil will be needed, the rest of the earth mined during the digging process should be evenly distributed over the surface;
if it is planned to drain wastewater through pipes, then you should dig a trench under the pipe in advance;
at the bottom of the excavated pit, apply a 15-centimeter layer of sand, on which apply a layer of concrete of the same thickness;
with a sharp object, by “piercing” this layer, remove excess air bubbles;
after the concrete pad hardens, lay a sewer pipe (if any);
after that, proceed with the laying of the facing walls, placing the bricks in a checkerboard pattern using a sand-cement mortar;
to increase the life of the cladding, also apply the solution directly to the outer part of the walls;
at the end of the cladding, apply a layer of bitumen to the walls;
make indentations in the ground 20 centimeters around the entire circumference;
from corrugated board, build a vertical partition around the perimeter of the pit;
reinforce the overlap by using rods, reinforcement fastened together with wire;
evenly fill the formwork with a concrete solution and let it dry for 25-30 days;
carefully remove the formwork with the frame, making sure that the structure is strong.

From the rings

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit using reinforced concrete rings:

dig a pit, keeping as much as possible round shape cross section;
mark the territory on which the pit will be located;
fill the bottom with a layer of concrete mortar;
build a metal frame using reinforcement bars, which will have to evenly distribute the mass of the rings over the entire area and protect the concrete pad from premature destruction;
after the concrete has hardened, you can begin to install the rings;
the joints of two adjacent rings must be filled with a concrete solution;
the outer part of the rings should be covered with a layer of bitumen;
after mounting all the rings, they should be closed with a concrete cover, the joint is also filled with mortar.

Made of plastic

The procedure for performing work during the construction of a pit using plastic containers:

dig a pit, given that in this case it will be much larger in size than in the previous two cases;
make the bottom as even as possible;
pour a 15 cm layer of sand on the bottom and compact it well;
gently lower the tank to the bottom and fix it in a stable position;
connect the inlet pipe of the tank to the drain pipe;
fill the free space between the tank and the walls of the pit with soil or sand;
pour a small volume of water to see how the reservoir compensates for the pressure on the ground. If the walls of the tank gradually bend inward, then the tank is not installed correctly.
completely fill the pit with soil.

Required Tool

The main tool for the personal construction of a cesspool is shovel. It is optimal to have both a bayonet and a shovel, since it is more convenient for one to directly dig a pit, and the other to throw soil to the surface.

Be sure to have a bucket and a rope to pull out the earth. You will also need a wheelbarrow to remove the soil from the pit. Have a tape measure or other measuring device handy. To descend into the pit, you should purchase a ladder.

Considering that it will be necessary to make a mortar from cement, then if it is not possible to use a concrete mixer, a separate container should be allocated for preparing the required volume of mortar.

Mounting highlights

As mentioned above, the first and main point of installation is the accuracy of the preliminary calculations based on specific needs. Then follows the correct selection of the location of the cesspool, taking into account the planned type of pit, for example, a pit with or lined with bricks will be narrow and deep, and a pit with a reservoir will be wide, but not so deep.

When choosing the option with reinforced concrete rings, it should be noted that their installation will require the help of a truck crane due to their high mass and fragility of the structure during falls. The option with bricks and a tank can be mounted by hand. It should also be noted that in order to extend the service life of a plastic tank, its outer part should be sealed with a layer of soil.

When laying pipes through which sewage will pass, it should be remembered that they must be below the freezing level of the soil.

Common Mistakes

Practice shows that often when arranging a cesspool, mistakes are made such as:

incorrect performance of preliminary calculations in terms of volume and location;
insufficient depth of the pit;
weak strengthening of the walls of the pit, as a result of which shedding occurs
walls;
the outlet pipes are parallel to the ground, and not at a slight angle;
neglect of the rules for the installation of concrete rings.

The question often arises before the owners of private houses,.

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The choice of sewer pipes is very important question. Tips and tricks can be found at the link.