How to connect the boiler to the water. We connect the storage water heater with our own hands: the connection diagram and the tie-in to the water supply

The procedure for connecting the water heater to the pressure pipe is determined by the type of heater. At the same time, in modern apartments and houses, either a gas column (as an option, a double-circuit boiler) or an electric boiler is used as a heating device.

Other types of heaters - a flowing electric column, a storage gas boiler, an installation of indirect heating from a heating system - are not in great demand. Therefore, further in the text, we will consider the installation procedure for the boiler and the column, or rather, the three stages of this process - preliminary work, insertion into the water supply system and the withdrawal of the “hot” branch from the heater to the tap.

The procedure for connecting the water heater - preliminary work

Preliminary work begins with the installation of a water heater. And first you need to choose the optimal location of the column or boiler.

The first type of heating devices - a column - should be located near the free valve of the domestic gas pipeline (no further than 2-3 meters), in a well-ventilated area.

Therefore, most geysers are mounted in the kitchen or in the boiler room, that is, where there is an outlet from the gas pipeline and an exhaust hood.

The storage boiler can be installed literally anywhere. After all, electricity and water can be brought anywhere. But before you connect the boiler to the water supply, you must consider heavy weight filled heater and the accumulative "character" of this device, which limits the amount of hot water consumed.

Therefore, an electric boiler is mounted only on a load-bearing wall, located at the same distance from both the kitchen and the bathroom. Well, if the kitchen and bathroom are “scattered” around the house, then you need to purchase two boilers. Otherwise, the water will simply cool down at the transition from the heater to the point of consumption.

Having decided on the location of the water heater, you need to attach a column or boiler to the supporting surface. For the boiler, this stage goes as follows:

• Holes are drilled in the wall for anchor bolts, the position of which can be determined by “trying on” an empty (and light) water heater to the surface.
• Next, the boiler is “applied” to the wall, driving into the holes, through the eyes in the heater brackets, fixing anchors.
• After that, you simply tighten the anchor bolts, fixing the fastener in the hole.
• Finally, you connect the heater to the mains. To do this, it is advisable to take a separate line from the central shield using a 4 mm three-core cable. Well, as a plug and socket, you should use a separate protective shutdown device - a fuse, to which the electric line and cord from the boiler are connected. Moreover, the installation of a separate line and RCD must be completed before connecting the boiler to the water supply.

The geyser requires a lot of trouble:

• First, you stuff a galvanized sheet onto the wall, the dimensions of which coincide with the supporting edge of the column housing. However, galvanizing can be replaced with tiles or fire-resistant plaster.
• Next, you "try on" the column to the wall, marking the location of the fasteners on the lugs of the brackets of your speaker cabinet.
• The next step is drilling the mounting holes.
• Next, you mount the column on the anchor bolts, driving them through the eyes and twisting until it stops.
• The last stage - connecting the column to the gas pipeline - is performed only by a representative of the territorial gas economy. Independent connection can provoke an accident or a fine for illegal tapping into a gas pipeline.

After completing the installation of the heater, you can proceed to the tie-in to the "cold" water supply.

Inserting a water heater into the water supply

Before connecting the water heater to the water supply, a T-shaped tee must be inserted into the body of the pipe. Moreover, the vertical (straight-through) section of such a fitting is located along the central axis of the pipeline, and the horizontal branch is "aimed" at the inlet fitting of the heater.

As a result, the procedure for connecting the heater to the water supply system is implemented as follows:

• A construction plumb line is applied to the inlet fitting, marking the shortest path from the horizontal branch of the water supply to the heater.
• The water in the house or apartment is blocked using a central valve.
• A horizontal pipe is cut with a grinder or a pipe cutter, after substituting a tray under the cut to collect the water remaining in the water supply.
• Next, you need to prepare the place of the cut. At polymer pipes we just end the edges with a beveler, and on the outer surface of the metal reinforcement we will have to cut the thread using a die.
• The next step is the installation of the tee. We mount threaded fittings on metal pipes, and electrofusion or compression fittings on polymer pipes.
• Next, we screw a shut-off valve into the inlet fitting and connect the free end of the valve to the tee using a ½ inch polymer or metal-plastic pipe.

Moreover, a check valve must be inserted into the body of the vertical pipe, which prevents the outflow of water from the working chamber of the heater when the water supply in the house is turned off.

After the installation is completed, you can turn on the water in the house by first turning off the valve at the water heater. This completes the connection of the boiler to the water supply (or installation of the column in the water supply network) and begins new stage- Arrangement of a hot branch of the water supply.

Construction of a "hot" branch of the water supply

The construction of a hot branch begins with the installation of a collector - a node responsible for branching the "hot" branch of the pipeline. It is mounted on the wall at the point of the intended section of the pipeline. Therefore, the construction of the "hot" branch is carried out as follows:

• At the dividing point, a manifold is mounted, to the outlets of which shut-off valves are attached. However, with a minimum number of consumption points, an ordinary tee or cross can be used instead of a manifold.
• Separate branches connecting the collector and each mixer are diverted from the valves. That is, a separate pipe leads to the kitchen and the bathroom, which ends with an adapter for a hose connecting the pipeline and the “hot” pipe of the mixer.
• Next, you need to stretch the central line of the hot water system, connecting the end outlet of the collector with the outlet fitting of the water heater.

For safety reasons, at the point of connection of the hot water pipe to the boiler, it is necessary to install a control valve that relieves pressure in the event of failure of the standard heater assembly.

In the final, you connect the unit to the power source by turning the gas pipeline valve or turning on the RCD, and open the shut-off valve at the water heater inlet. Next, you need to fill the working chamber of your heater. To do this, you just need to open the distant tap (or all taps) and wait until the water squeezes air out of the heater and pipes. Moreover, to remove residual air, you can use a special valve embedded in the working chamber of the boiler or column.

After that, you can use the column immediately, the boiler - after 3-4 hours, when the water in the storage tank is heated to the desired temperature.

Connecting an electric storage water heater is a popular solution for the production of hot water, you can install the equipment yourself. This device is installed for continuous hot water production, and EWH also serves as a backup source of hot water supply in case of temporary absence of hot water from the heating plant.

Device and algorithm of EWH operation

The storage water heater consists of the following main elements:

1. heating element;
2. Thermal insulation;
3. Decorative case;
4. Control system;

Water heater tanks are usually made of steel, polymer ones are much less common. Vessels made of black steel have an inner surface coating of enamel, glass-ceramic.

Another type of tanks are vessels made of high-quality stainless steel. They have a higher cost, but this is offset by a long service life. Two threaded fittings are cut into the tank - cold water inlet and hot water outlet.

Water heaters made of black steel are equipped with a magnesium anode - this device slows down the process of corrosion of the metal walls. The anode is replaced with a new set within the period specified in the manufacturer's documentation. This device increases the service life of the device, but the stainless tank still outperforms the black tank in this indicator.

A heating element built into the container acts as a heating element. The heating element is mounted on a thread and is easily replaced in case of failure. The main cause of problems with the heater is the formation of deposits of hardness salts (scale), deterioration of heat transfer, overheating and subsequent combustion.

Thermal insulation is applied to the surface of the tank, usually by spraying. It is designed to maintain the water temperature, save electricity due to a decrease in the frequency of switching on the heating element, and maintain the accumulated volume of water at the desired temperature.

The decorative case is made of plastic or metal, it has built-in controls - a temperature gauge showing a thermometer (or a digital display).

The algorithm of the device is quite simple. The device is filled with water from a water supply or a water supply tank. The handle sets the heating temperature. The heating element turns on, heating occurs. When the set temperature is reached, heating stops.

When cooling down, heating is regularly switched on to maintain the temperature value. When water is used up, the heating is switched on continuously.

Choosing a place for installing a storage water heater

When determining the installation location of the water heater, several criteria must be followed. According to the installation method, storage EWHs are divided into three types:

1. Wall mounted;
2. floor;
3. Embedded.

The capacity of wall-mounted EWHs has a limit of 200 liters, floor-mounted ones can hold up to 1000 liters of water, built-in ones - from 50 to 1000 liters. The devices have various shapes - cylindrical, rectangular, cubic, combined. The connection method and the choice of installation location often depend on the form. The shape and overall dimensions greatly affect the possibility of placing the device.

According to the orientation of the main volume, two types of products are distinguished - horizontal and vertical. The orientation of the heating element depends on the orientation, trouble-free operation is guaranteed only if the heater is completely constantly covered with water. You can read more about choosing water heaters in this one.

The next important factor is the weight of the device (filled). The weight of wall models does not exceed 200 kg, however, not all walls can withstand this weight. With a low density and reliability of the wall structure, the apparatus will tear out the fasteners and come off. Therefore, in some cases, an auxiliary frame made of metal or rails is constructed to mount the water heater to the wall.

EWH should be placed in close proximity to the points of water intake. With a large length of pipelines to the mixers, the flow of hot water begins only after the high-quality heating of the pipe. This takes a significant amount of heat concentrated in hot water. EWH is mounted in rooms with a constant positive air temperature.

When placing and mounting the EWH, the distances from building structures should be observed. They are necessary for the maintenance and repair of the device.

Self-installation of a water heater

The installation process is divided into several main stages:

1. Stationary fastening;
2. Connection of pipelines;
3. Connection to the power supply;
4. Checking and starting the device.

Stationary fastening

Floor water heaters have adjustable legs or a special stand. Wall-mounted EWHs are mounted using three types of fixtures:

1. Wood screws with a diameter of 0.8 cm and a length of 60 - 70 mm for fixing in wooden walls and supporting structures;
2. Anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 - 16 mm (the diameter of the fastener depends on the weight of the "water heater");
3. Screws with plastic dowels.

Standard fasteners are included with the product along with the support bar. The support bar on the device resembles a DIN rail, designed to improve and simplify the fastening of the tank to the wall.

To carry out the work you will need the following tools:

1. Electric drill or perforator;
2. A hammer;
3. Wrenches, screwdrivers;
4. Construction level, tape measure, pencil (marker).

At the first stage, markup is performed. The device is applied to the wall, its contours are marked. Then mark the attachment points. EWH should be located taking into account the future availability of instrument piping.

Holes are drilled at the marking points corresponding to the size of the selected fasteners. Fasteners are mounted, the device is hung. The quality and reliability of fastening is checked, the absence of the possibility of shifting, breaking off the fasteners.

Tying electric storage water heater

Schemes for connecting the storage water heater, depending on the tasks of the device, are divided into two types:

1. Direct connection;
2. Replacement connection.

With a direct connection, the cold water pipeline is connected to the device, the hot water distribution circuit for the mixers diverges from the EWH. This scheme is used in case of hot water production only by accumulative EWH.

Replacement connection is most often made in high-rise apartments. The device is connected as a bypass to the pipeline from the centralized DHW network. When the networks are turned off for repairs in the summer, the water heater is included in the distribution of hot water through the existing wiring, and is disconnected from the hot water riser.

Binding of all types of water heaters is carried out according to general principle. A safety relief valve is installed on the cold water inlet pipe. An arrow is marked on the valve body; during installation, it must be directed towards the device.

The valve performs several functions:

1. The function of protecting the tank from rupture when the pressure rises;
2. check valve function;
3. Dumping excess water.

PSK has a factory preset pressure. When excess pressure in the tank rises, it discharges a small amount of water through a special hole. A silicone hose is attached to the hole, it is led into the sewer or directly into the sink. By the same principle, the valve operates when water is heated - it expands, the excess is discharged.

When the water is turned off, the PSK locks the water in the EWH - acts as a check valve. The valve is always included in the product package.

Often the question arises - the valve began to leak, what to do? At the same time, it periodically stops flowing. The answer is unequivocal - PSK needs to be replaced. In most cases, when the working element of the valve breaks down, it permanently loses its tightness.

Further, shut-off valves - ball valves - are installed at the inlet and outlet of EWH. At high pressure in the water supply (more than 5 - 6 atmospheres), a reducer should be installed at the inlet of the water heater to reduce pressure. Instead of ball valves, sometimes they use wall-mounted taps built-in for finishing; a water heater is connected to them through flexible pipes.

Connecting the water heater to the power supply

The electric water heater has increased power, while working from a 220V network. Small volume devices - from 15 to 50 liters, can be connected to a conventional network (with good quality and corresponding wiring section). But it is better (and safer) to connect the water heater through protective safety devices:

1. Circuit breaker;
2. Residual current device - RCD;
3. Waterproof socket.

The machine protects the product from short circuits, overloads. The current strength AB is selected at 16 A. The best option is to connect the outlet to the shield with a separate line, but not everyone can do it on their own.

Checking and starting the device

To start the device, the tap at the cold water inlet is fully opened, the outlet from the EWH is opened, and the nearest mixer is slightly opened. The container is completely filled with water, air is vented.

The plug is plugged into an outlet, power is supplied. The regulator knob (or buttons) sets the required water temperature. Heating occurs. The water heater is inspected for leaks. At the startup stage, you should not set big values temperature.

With further operation, maintenance is unnecessary high temperatures can lead to rapid scale formation. Hot water temperature according to SNiP - no more than 55 degrees Celsius. For EWH, a value of 60 - 70 degrees will be sufficient.

The operation mode of the water heater is checked - the heating element is turned off at a given temperature. This is indicated by the indicator lamp.

Installing a storage water heater on your own is a simple process, accessible to any man with a minimum of skills and tools. During installation, it is necessary to comply with a number of conditions set forth in the equipment documentation and the recommendations of this article.

Install flow water heater option good and not too difficult to perform. In this publication, the main theoretical issues will be considered and practical advice on how and how to connect the boiler to the water supply.

It is hardly possible to call living in a house or apartment fully comfortable if for some reason, temporarily or permanently, but there is no hot water supply. Even residents of high-rise buildings in large cities are not insured against this - accidents occur, interruptions in the operation of boiler houses, planned supply stops, etc. And about the inhabitants of the private sector or suburban housing, the conversation is generally special - all the problems of providing themselves with hot water completely fall on the owners.

How is it solved? Heating water in a pan is not even discussed ... But it would probably be wiser to always have at least a small supply of heated water - that is, install a storage water heater, in other words, a boiler.

Types of boilers used in everyday life

So, leaving "out of the brackets" instantaneous water heaters, as well as outdated and inconvenient solid fuel"titans", let's pay attention to modern models of boilers. They can be divided into direct and indirect heating devices. And according to the type of energy carrier used, direct heating boilers are divided into gas and electric. In addition, there are models that combine several principles of work.

Boilers for direct heating

In installations of this type, the incoming energy carrier (electricity or natural gas) is consumed exclusively for the needs of hot water supply, without intermediate steps.

Gas storage boiler

Such a device is not very widespread - it is quite complicated to install, requires mandatory approval from the technical supervision authorities, it requires the construction of a system of one type or another, corresponding supply ventilation to ensure proper combustion of the gas. In a number of regions prerequisite installation became the presence of a special device - a gas analyzer. All this does not add to their popularity with homeowners.

Nevertheless, such boilers still "have the right to exist", and in terms of efficiency, they, of course, are superior to electric ones.

What is the device of a gas storage boiler:

• Pos. 1 - a container in which heating and accumulation of hot water is carried out. It is supplied through a pipe (pos. 5), and the intake is through a branch pipe (pos. 6). Not shown in the diagram, but the water tank has a fairly thick outer casing with polyurethane foam insulation, which ensures long-term maintenance of the required water temperature.
• The water tank has a common lower heat exchange wall (pos. 2) with a combustion chamber in which a gas burner (pos. 3) is installed. In addition, heat exchange is carried out when hot combustion products pass through the central channel (pos. 9) before exiting the chimney (pos. 10 )
• The control device as part of the installed temperature sensor and thermostat (pos. 4) constantly monitors the level of water heating, as necessary, turning on or shutting off the gas supply to the burner (pos. 3).
• The safety group (pos. 7) necessarily includes an emergency valve that will relieve excess pressure if the thermostat suddenly fails to maintain a certain temperature.
• To prevent the walls of the tank from becoming overgrown with scale, a magnesium anode (pos. 8) is installed in the boiler. This material has a much lower electrical potential, so free ions of salts dissolved in water will be deposited on it. These anodes are easy to change as needed.

So, despite the excellent performance, such boilers did not become “bestsellers”, as they are difficult to install, and their cost is much higher than that of conventional electric ones.

electric boiler

This type of storage boiler is the most popular among homeowners. Installation of such a device does not require tedious conciliatory procedures, significant alterations or construction and installation works. With a reliable line, any good owner who has a basic understanding of plumbing work can probably install an electric boiler.

How are electric boilers arranged? They may have a different layout, but the circuit diagram still remains the same:

• The outer body of the boiler (pos. 1) may have one or another decorative design. From separated from the internal water tank (pos. 3) with a layer of polyurethane foam thermal insulation (pos. 2).
• The supply of cold tap water is always carried out to the lower part of the tank through the welded pipe (pos. 4). To avoid creating turbulent fluid flows in the tank, the incoming water is distributed using a special diffuser (pos. 5).
• Hot water, on the contrary, is always taken from the top of the tank through the installed pipe (pos. 9 )
• Water heating occurs with the help of electric heating elements (heaters) of various types (pos. 7).
• The purpose of the magnesium anode (pos. 6) has already been described above.
• The temperature sensor (pos. 8) is connected by an electrical circuit to an electronic or electromechanical thermostat that provides water heating to the temperature set by the user.

Such a scheme of operation of the boiler shows itself perfectly in practice, if the device is chosen correctly, taking into account the need for power and volume. Electric boilers are available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, they are quite compact, and most importantly, they have a very affordable price.

Indirect heating boilers

In those private houses (sometimes in city apartments) where an autonomous closed-type water heating system with a single-circuit boiler is installed, indirect heating boilers are often used for hot water needs. In these devices, the water that is used for domestic and hygienic needs (in other words, sanitary) receives heating not from direct heating, but from heat exchange with the heating circuit through which the liquid heat carrier (technical water or other liquid) circulates.

The principal device of an indirect heating boiler is shown in the diagram:

Outer shell (item 1) thermal insulation layer (item 2) and inner tank (item 3) — , all by analogy with a conventional direct heating boiler.

Through the branch pipe (pos. 4), cold sanitary water enters the tank, the flow of which is sprayed using a special baffle (pos. 5). Hot sanitary water is taken in through the pipe in the upper part of the boiler (pos. 6).

In addition, a circulation pipe (pos. 7) is usually provided. A separate additional contour is created, for example, through heated towel rail, with constant circulation of hot water. This achieves two goals: firstly, in the DHW pipe there is always hot water of approximately the same temperature; a in– secondly, such a scheme somewhat simplifies the rather complex system of maintaining the desired temperature for heating sanitary water.

Branch pipes pos. 8 and pos. 9 - tie-in to the house heating system, entrance and exit to the spiral heat exchanger (pos. 10), through which heat energy is transferred from the heating boiler to the hot water supply system. There may be more such "coils", for example, one is connected to the heating system, and the second - to the system of solar heat accumulators.

Boilers of large volume (more than 150 l) usually have an inspection window (pos. 11), closed with a flange plug. In this window, by the way, it is often possible to install an electric heater - a heating element, thus making the boiler more versatile.

Magnesium anode (pos. 12) is an indispensable element for all modern boilers.

An indirect heating boiler must necessarily have its own safety group, monitoring and control device (pos. 13), thermal sensors for generating control signals (pos. 14).

An indirect heating boiler may have a slightly different design, so-called "tank in tank» :

Boiler of indirect heating according to the principle "tank in a tank"

Everything is almost the same, only the circulation of the technical fluid of the heating system goes through the external vessel "A2. An internal tank "B" is installed inside it, in which sanitary water is heated. The surface of the inner tank is made corrugated to increase the area of ​​active heat exchange.

They are distinguished by high productivity (naturally, with the corresponding power of the heating boiler), efficiency. Alas, they also have many shortcomings. Firstly, they are “tied” to the heating system, and when warm days come and the boilers are turned off, they simply stop working. Secondly, such a boiler is a rather massive structure that takes up a lot of space, which is especially important for cramped conditions in city apartments. Probably, from the point of view of convenience, a double-circuit boiler still looks preferable. And thirdly, indirect heating boilers are somewhat “capricious” in terms of adjustments and maintaining the required temperature - they need a rather complicated and cumbersome control system and coordination with the heating circuit.

Combined boilers

Boilers of both direct and indirect heating have their own significant advantages and significant disadvantages. To fully take into account both those and others, to create a kind of "symbiosis" of both schemes - this is the task set by the developers of combined boilers.

The diagram shows one of the typical examples of such devices, a boiler from the SMART family of models.

As can be seen from the figure, this boiler is assembled according to the “indirect” “tank in tank” scheme, but additionally has its own electric heaters ( heating elements). They can be switched on, for example, when the heat energy of the heating system is not enough to raise the temperature of the sanitary water to the required level (often this happens when during the off-season, in autumn or spring, the heating boiler is not used at rated output). Naturally, when the heating season ends, the heating elements will bear the full burden of providing the house with hot water. On the one hand, it is convenient, on the other hand, the system is quite bulky, and besides, the combined boiler does not solve the problem of saving space - it also needs a lot of additional space.

So, to draw a line under the first section of the publication, we can state that the best choice in terms of ease of installation, reliability and ease of operation will still be an electric direct heating boiler. And the fact that it is somewhat less economical - this issue should be addressed by a prudent approach to the use of hot water.

Prices for popular models of water heaters

Water heaters

How to choose the right boiler

The range of modern household appliances stores can easily confuse you - which boiler model for an apartment should you prefer, what parameters should you rely on? It is clear that the device must "fit" into the interior of the room - however, this selection criterion should not become decisive in any way. First of all, attention is always paid to operational characteristics, materials for the manufacture of the main components, the availability and reliability of control, monitoring and emergency protection systems.

Required capacity of the water tank of the boiler

Boilers are produced in a wide variety of volumes - from mini-devices with a capacity of about 8 ÷ 10 liters, to powerful installations with storage tanks of 200 liters or more. The “more is better” principle here absolutely unacceptable. There is no point in overpaying for a completely unclaimed volume of heated water, and, in addition, wasting precious space in a cramped apartment. It is better to approach the choice from a practical point of view.

The volume of the heater should depend on the number and type of hot water points in the apartment or house, on the number of people living in it, so that the needs of all residents are met evenly and to the maximum extent, without any inconvenience to others.

Boilers are capable of heating water to very significant temperatures, close even to the boiling point. However, from the standpoint of economy and safety, +60 ° is considered the optimal level of heating. FROM. Let this value not seem small - this is very hot water, the temperature of which the hand cannot withstand. Naturally, such water needs to be diluted with cold water. The table below shows the approximate consumption of hot (60 °) water and, accordingly, diluted to a comfortable temperature:

Hygienic and household needs	Optimum water temperature (°C)	Approximate total water consumption (liters)	The required amount of water heated to 60 ° (liters)
Routine hand washing	37	1.5 ÷ 4	1 ÷ 3
Taking a shower	37	35 ÷ 50	17 ÷ 25
Bathing with a bath	40	150 ÷ ​​180	85 ÷ 120
Morning wash, brush teeth, shave	37	12 ÷ 15	5 ÷ 8
Washing kitchen utensils	50	15 ÷ 25	14 ÷ 17

Guided by these values ​​and knowing the number of people living in the house, armed with a calculator, you can calculate the required volume of the water heater, so that there is enough water for everyone without additional waiting for it to be heated. It is clear that in this case one should proceed from reasonable consumption - if someone needs to take a bath, then there will not be enough hot water for anyone else.

To simplify the calculation as much as possible, a table will be given by which you can quickly determine the recommended boiler volume for specific conditions:

Number of cohabiting water consumers	Number of residents taking evening showers directly one after another	The number and type of water intake points in the apartment (house)	Minimum allowable volume of storage boiler	Optimal boiler volume
one adult	-	only washing	10	30
one adult	1	Wash and shower	30	50
two adults	2	Wash and shower	50	80
Family: two adults and a child	3	Sink, dash and sink	80	100
Family: two adults and two children	4	sink, shower, sink, bath	100	120
Family: two adults and three children	5	sink, shower, sink, bath	120	150

Rated and maximum power of the water heater

It is clear that the more powerful the heating elements of the boiler, the more of them, the higher the total load and power consumption of the installation, the sooner the water will heat up to the set temperature. However, to strictly follow this approach - to choose a device with maximum power, would be a mistake. Do not forget that in-house electrical networks have certain load thresholds, exceeding which, at best, will cause constant operation of protective equipment, and at worst, overheating of the wiring and even the occurrence of a fire hazard.

For the conditions of apartments, private houses, a water heater with a capacity of up to 2500 W will be sufficient. For conventional home electrical networks, this consumption is not extreme, and standard sockets with a ground loop are usually rated for loads up to 3500 watts.

Despite this, any electrician will still give advice - do not rely on the wiring once made by someone, but stretch a separate line from the shield to the boiler. The second tip - if a boiler with a power of more than 3000 W is selected, then the socket will not be the best option for connecting it - for the complete safety of the line, it is better to organize the connection point of the water heater through an automatic machine designed for currents of 16÷ 25 amperes.

Water heater dimensions and its external layout

Here, it would seem, everything is simple - the boiler is purchased in the right volume, and with the dimensions already - how it will turn out. Not certainly in that way.

• Traditionally, from the moment they appeared in everyday life, electric boilers had a vertical orientation and represented themselves a cylinder suspended from a wall or, for very large volumes, permanently mounted on the floor. The disadvantage of such a cylindrical shape is the irrational use of space, since the device protrudes excessively from the wall.

If a small boiler, up to 30 ÷ 50 liters, can still be raised higher, and it will not be a particular hindrance, then with larger capacities, the loss of space becomes significant.

"Squat" boilers take up less space, but they also have disadvantages

From this point of view, it will be much more convenient to use a vertical “flattened” boiler, and sometimes - parallelepiped designs. They are closer to the wall and allow more free use of space in a cramped room. True, such models are much more expensive, and besides, their inner tank always has several welds, and this is always a kind of "Achilles' heel" for any structure that is constantly in contact with water.

• If the room where it is planned is wide enough, then it makes sense to consider the feasibility of purchasing a device with horizontal placement on the wall.

In addition to the fact that this saves space, such boilers are praised for the rapid heating of water. True, the overall performance of such water heaters is still lower than that of vertical ones.

The model of the boiler according to the type of body and its placement on the wall must be determined immediately. It is completely unacceptable to change the direction of installation, for example, hang horizontally vertically or vice versa - the design features of each model predetermine its placement and connection to water supply networks only in a position strictly specified in the instructions.

Anti-corrosion protection

Without magnesium anodes, perhaps, modern boilers are no longer produced - this simple device allows you to maximize the life of the heaters and the internal capacity of the boiler.

Magnesium anode significantly "pulls" corrosion processes on itself

To purchase such an anode and replace it is not particularly difficult.

What can be added in this aspect - there are more modern anti-corrosion systems with so-called inert anodes. The degree of security of the boiler is much higher here, although the price of such a model is also the same.

Types of heating elements

• From the very beginning of the appearance of boilers in everyday life, they are installed so-called "wet" electric heaters - heating elements.

Wet heating elements are constantly in contact with water ...

They are directly immersed in the heated water, which means that the heat transfer process is more efficient. However, here lies the main vulnerability of such devices - the water quality can be such that even magnesium anodes do not help, and heaters become overgrown with scale and corrosion deposits in a matter of months.

... and this contact, alas, does not pass without a trace - such heating elements do not differ in durability

• Heaters with "dry" elements are considered more advanced. This, by and large, is no longer a heating element in the literal sense (not a tubular electric heater), but rather a system of powerful heating coils on a ceramic case.

"Dry" heaters are much safer and more durable

Such a "dry" heater is placed in a completely sealed capsule, which is located in the internal volume of the boiler. Contact with water simply cannot be, and such a heater lasts much longer. And it’s easier to change it - for this you don’t even need to drain their tank of water.

Boiler storage tank material

• If you approach from the point of view of the cheapness of the model, then you can purchase a boiler with a conventional steel inner tank with an enamel coating. Perhaps, apart from low cost, this design has no other advantages - - it is the least resistant to pressure or temperature increase - the enamel can become cracked and start chipping.
• Much more practical in this regard are water heaters with a stainless steel tank. They are not so picky about stiffness and chemical composition water heated in them are much more hygienic. Stainless steel is a fairly plastic material, so it is not afraid of significant temperature changes and, accordingly, pressure - steel compensates for all expansions, and deformation will not occur.

Some boilers with a high-quality stainless steel tank and with a “dry” heating element are not even equipped with magnesium anodes due to the lack of such a need.

• The most modern are water heaters with tanks made of glass-porcelain composite. Here we can talk about absolute neutrality to any chemical reagents, total absence even hints of corrosion or surface deformation.

Under no circumstances will the heated water smell, as is often the case with enameled containers. Moreover, the glass-porcelain coating even has a certain antibacterial effect.

The disadvantage of such water heaters is one - they are still very expensive compared to other models.

Prices for accessories for boilers

Boiler accessories

Water heater control mechanisms

On the simplest models, there is a simple electromechanical control - a rotating handle, through which the required temperature for heating and maintaining water is set. An obligatory element, as a rule, is a pointer indicator - a thermometer and a light bulb (LED) indicating the heating process or a pause.

In principle, such a scheme of control and management in most cases is quite enough. However, if you wish, you can also purchase more “fancy” boilers, which have a liquid crystal indication of operating modes, and the possibility of programming has been implemented. For example, with the setting according to the switching on time, according to the heating power level, etc.

Modern boilers may have multifunctional electronic control systems

Such models can be included in the "smart home" system, controlled using special remote controls, have other interesting, but probably not so popular ones. Everyday life functions.

Fame manufacturer

The question is also important. Giving even if not too much money for an absolute "pig in a poke" is probably not very prudent. Who knows, you might be lucky, but very often the result is just the opposite, and the saddest thing is that there is also no one to claim any warranty obligations from.

In the middle price category, as a rule, Italian, Slovak, Turkish water heaters. They have a solid, neat assembly, but Chinese spare parts are most often used as components, which cannot be called low-quality, but they are still far from world standards.

If the aim for the purchase is guaranteed quality and longevity, along with the most advanced technologies, then German manufacturers have no equal here. In addition, real heaters from Germany are famous for their excellent heat retention characteristics - a fully heated boiler, disconnected from the power supply, will lose no more than 6 — 7 degrees per day.

How to connect the boiler correctly

The installation of an electric direct heating boiler in its regular place can be divided into several distinct technological stages:

• Choosing the optimal location and hanging the water heater on the wall.
• Pipe connection to the boiler and its insertion into the plumbing system.
• Installation and debugging of control and security systems.
• Connecting the boiler to the electrical network.

Mounting the boiler on the wall

It would seem - what is easier than hanging a water heater on the wall in the chosen place? However, frivolity in such a matter absolutely not allowed. Judge for yourself - even a small boiler, say 50 liters, with full filling will weigh about 70 kilograms. What can happen if the mount is unreliable - you can see in the photo.

Even in the best case, if at the time of the fall there were no people below - this is a broken appliance, damaged plumbing, for sure - leaking water, etc. And at worst - in addition to impact injury - there is also the danger of scalding with hot water or getting an electric shock.

• So, the wall material must be such that fasteners are securely held in it. In this capacity, plasterboard walls can not even be considered - in no case can you hang the boiler without a special metal structure.
• The suspensions themselves - dowels or anchors with hooks, must withstand twice the maximum load. For example, fasteners for a boiler with a volume of 120 liters must withstand a shear and bending force of 250 kg.

Usually, conscientious manufacturers complete their models with mounts that are guaranteed to withstand loads. if you have to purchase fasteners on your own, then the golden rule should apply - it is better to take with a huge margin than to doubt whether it is enough or not. Usually, for household-class boilers, dowels or anchors with a central rod with a diameter of at least 8 mm are sufficient, with an outer diameter of a collet or plug - at least 12 mm. The length of the dowel is about 100 - 120 mm.

• The boiler must not be located too far from the draw-off points. The "classic" place of its installation is considered to be a bathroom, a wall above the toilet. True, there may be obstacles to such placement. For example, an overly large water heater simply does not fit there. In addition, there are apartments that have more than one pair of hot and cold water risers - this happens when the “bath-toilet” block and the kitchen are separated. It makes no sense to pull long communications, powering all points from one boiler. The best solution would be to install two heaters - for the bath, and the second, more compact - for kitchen needs.
• The boiler must be placed on the wall in such a way that all its indication and control elements remain open for control, so that there is free access to plumbing fittings and a power switch.
• It is recommended to leave a distance of at least 100 mm between the boiler and the ceiling. The suspended water heater should not be placed lower than 500 mm from the floor surface.

• Most suspended boilers have one or two metal mounting strips or brackets welded to the body with holes for hooks. Before marking, carefully measure the distances between these holes so that they can be transferred to the wall. Sometimes in the technical documentation of the water heater, a paper template is attached to the installation instructions for the most accurate marking - this will be even easier.

Vertical axial and horizontal lines are beaten off on the wall, with control at building level assistance. But it marks holes for dowels or anchors. After drilling holes and hammering fasteners into them, the hook is screwed in so that approximately 5 - 7 mm remains outside.

After that, you can hang the boiler on hooks.

• There is another option - the water heater is equipped with a special bracket that is attached to the wall, and on the boiler body there is a "mate" for hanging on this bracket. Then they are used on hooks, and dowels or bolt-type anchors, with a hex key.

Inserting a boiler into the plumbing system of an apartment

This is one of the most difficult tasks. Its meaning lies in the fact that it is necessary to install tees on the cold and hot water lines. Through the "cold" water will be taken to the heater. Through the "hot" boiler will be connected to the internal wiring of hot water.

The classic boiler piping scheme is shown in the diagram:

Time-tested electric boiler to the plumbing system

Blue arrows show the movement of cold water, red, respectively, hot.

By. 1 is the water heater itself.

Pos. 2 and 3 - cold and hot water supply risers. As a rule, at the inlet, in front of the water meters (they are not shown in the diagram), there are shut-off valves - pos. 4 and 5. An important note - when working offline, that is, when using a boiler, the valve pos. 5 is necessarily in a completely blocked state.

Valves pos. 8 and 9 - an element, in principle, optional, but highly recommended. With these taps, it will be possible to turn off the boiler, for example, for preventive maintenance or for repair, in no way without affecting all the rest of the apartment layout.

From these valves, the supply usually begins (pos. 10 and 11) to the water heater itself. Flexible hoses or plastic pipes, polypropylene or metal-plastic can be used.

If the hot pipe connection is connected, most often, directly to the boiler, then for cold water it is required to install a safety valve (pos. 12), which can be connected to drainage system thin flexible hose (pos. 13).

Theory is over. Now let's see how this can be done in practice.

• You will need a certain tool and accessories - wrenches (for 22, 24, 27 and 32), gas wrenches, a cutter for plastic pipes, tow for winding joints and a special paste for the same purposes. You can have a few ½ inch and ¾ inch rubber spacers in stock.
• First of all, before starting installation work, both valves at the inlet (pos. 4 and 5) must be closed.
• The next knot is tees. There will be no particular problems if the internal wiring in the house and whether the apartment is made of polypropylene or metal-plastic - you can cut out the desired fragment of a pipe, weld or mount a tee on the fittings, and then lead further laying from it to the boiler.

It is more difficult if the pipe is laid steel, and its replacement with a more perfect one - plastic, is not yet planned. So, you have to embed a tee.

In principle, a simple and acceptable solution may be to install a collapsible clip-clamp. A hole is drilled in the pipe, a clip is put on top, it is tightly tightened, and further wiring is made from the resulting outlet.

A tee - a clip allows you to solve the problem to some extent, but it’s still better to make a “major” tie-in

However, this option is not considered too successful - there may be leaks, and there is a high probability of a quick clogging in the place of the drilled hole. It is better to cut a pipe section with a grinder, cut the thread with an appropriate lerk, and then “pack” a full-fledged brass tee using a conventional drive or, which is much better - with swivel nut couplings - so-called "Americans".

The most convenient way is to use connections with union nuts - American

Video: how to switch from a metal pipe to a plastic one

• From the installed tee, of course, it is already worthwhile to “get closer” to the boiler by installing plastic pipes.

It is recommended to bring the pipes as close as possible to the water heater. As the last section of the eyeliner, flexible hoses in a metal braid are most often used. So - the shorter they are, the more durable. Long hoses vibrate strongly when starting and closing the water, and this causes accelerated wear.

A prerequisite is that if such flexible hoses are installed, they must be of exceptionally high quality.

However, many craftsmen still prefer to make an eyeliner entirely from or metal-plastic pipes.

Connection without flexible hoses - only from polypropylene pipes

Do not forget that it is recommended to install another pair of shut-off valves before the last section of the piping.

The hot pipe is connected directly to the red pipe of the water heater. You can find recommendations to install an additional tee here with access to the drain tap - but from a practical point of view, such an element has no special application.

Left, on hot pipe a tee with a diverter valve is installed. From a practical point of view - not a particularly necessary detail

Particular attention to the connection of the cold pipe

Here, there are much more strict requirements for connecting water to the boiler.

The main one is the mandatory installation of a safety valve immediately before entering the water heater pipe. This device is essentially represents double acting valve.

Without any exaggeration - the most important element of safety, the safety valve

• In a longitudinal cylinder with a threaded connection, there is a poppet - it will not allow water to flow out of the boiler even if there is no pressure at all in the supply pipes.
• The perpendicular cylinder also houses a poppet valve, but with a much stronger spring. Its compression force is calculated in such a way that the valve will open when the pressure in the boiler exceeds the critical point, for example, if the thermostat fails, overheats or even boils water. In this case, excess liquid will be discharged into the drain pipe, and the pressure in the device will return to normal. The drain pipe is often connected with a transparent flexible tube to the sewer or cistern toilet.

On many models, a lever is provided - it allows you to open the emergency valve manually, for example, to drain water from the tank.

You can often hear complaints that water is dripping from such a valve. You can’t complain about this - you need to rejoice that the valve is working correctly. A valve that is always dry should cause much more concern - there is a possibility that it is clogged.

There are smart people who believe that only a check valve will be enough. This is the worst delusion., which has led to real tragedies more than once.

Another important warning is that no locking devices are allowed to be installed after the valve and before entering the boiler.

Video: The Importance of Installing a Relief Valve

The picture shows installed valve, above which a tee is packed, having a side outlet through a shut-off valve. This is a completely acceptable and quite convenient improvement in piping the boiler - it is always possible to quickly drain the water from it or use the supply of water when for some reason it is not in the water supply.

It happens that the pressure in the plumbing system at home is extremely unstable - there are strong jumps. This is unsafe for the boiler in terms of the occurrence of water hammer. In addition, at high blood pressure an emergency valve may operate, uselessly dumping water into the sewer system.

It is not difficult to eliminate such a nuisance - you need to install a pressure reducer at the entrance to the apartment or directly in front of the boiler - usually purchased with a nominal value of 2 atmospheres.

When installing valves and reducers, be sure to pay attention to the direction of the arrows printed on their body and indicating the direction of water flow.

“Packing” of threaded plumbing connections is best done on tow using a special sealing paste (for example, Unipack). Tow fibers are wound along the threads strictly clockwise, then smeared with paste on top. It is not required to especially tighten such a pairing with a key - it is twisted all the way, but “without fanaticism”. If necessary, it will even be possible to even make a quarter or even half a turn back - this should not affect the tightness of the connection. In this, this type of winding is much more advantageous, for example, fum tapes.

When connecting flexible hoses and union nuts of American couplings, winding is not required - rubber gaskets cope with the task of sealing.

Boiler piping completed

After all nodes are connected according to the scheme, the quality of all connections is checked, you can conduct a test set of water in the boiler.

• For this, first of all, the shut-off valve at the hot water inlet to the apartment is closed.
• Then, at one of the points of water intake on the mixer, a “hot” tap opens - the air displaced from the tank will exit through it.
• The valve for supplying cold water to the boiler opens.
• The water heater starts to fill up. It is necessary to monitor the moment until water starts to run from the open tap - this will indicate that the boiler is full. After that, close the tap on the mixer. The valve for supplying cold water to the heater always remains open for the entire time the appliance is used.

On this, the final tie-in of the boiler into the water supply system can be considered completed. It remains only to connect the boiler to the power supply, set the required heating temperature on the control panel, and, as it heats up, it is reasonable to use hot water.

Video: how to install a water heater with your own hands

TOP 12 best boilers

	A photo	Name	Rating	Price
Gas boilers
#1		American Water Heater	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Ariston SGA 150	⭐ 99 / 100
#3		Baxi SAG3 80	⭐ 98 / 100
Electric boilers
#1		Gorenje OTG 80 SL B6	⭐ 100 / 100
#2		Ariston BLU1 R ABS 80V	⭐ 100 / 100
#3		Thermex Sprint 80 SPR-V	⭐ 98 / 100
Indirect heating boilers
#1		Drazice OKC 200 NTRR	⭐ 100 / 100
#2		Protherm FE 200/6 BM	⭐ 99 / 100
#3		Gorenje GV 200	⭐ 98 / 100
Combined boilers
#1		Drazice OKC 160/1m2	⭐ 100 / 100
#2

Increasingly, instead of a gas column in an apartment and a private house, an electric water heater is being installed. It is easy to use, does not require special permission, drafting and other red tape, as with gas counterparts. Even if the apartment has a hot water supply, the boiler will become a kind of reserve in case it is turned off. But such, at first glance, a simple electrical appliance must be properly connected to the home water supply. Mistakes made can lead to failure of the boiler and even rupture of the tank from overpressure. Let's now look at how to connect the boiler to the water supply, and what are their varieties.

Considering electric boilers, two main types can be distinguished: flow and storage. Each of them has its own disadvantages and advantages, but they all perform the same function - they provide hot water.

Storage type boilers

An electric water heater with a large tank is called storage. It is convenient in that you can make a small supply of water. If the pipeline is connected correctly, that is, a drain valve is provided, this reserve can be used when there is no water supply in the apartment or house for any reason.

The storage boiler consists of the following parts:

• a tank of a certain water tank, insulated with polyurethane foam, is placed in an outer case made of stainless steel or enameled steel;
• a heating element is installed inside the tank - a heating element. Its power varies from 1.2 to 3 kW. There are models with "dry" heating elements. In them, the heating element does not come into contact with water, but is separated by a special flask filled with oil;
• the operation of the heating element is controlled by a thermostat, and the magnesium anode protects metal surfaces from corrosion.

In working condition, hot water is constantly under pressure inside the boiler, the temperature of which is set by the user himself.

An electric water heater with a volume of up to 150 liters is completed with a heating element with a power of not more than 2 kW. The constant maintenance of hot water in it at a temperature of 60–65 ° C is considered economically beneficial.

Among the advantages of the device are the following:

• the power of the heater is not more than that of a conventional iron, it allows you to connect the storage water heater to a conventional outlet, but always if there is grounding;
• simple connection to the water supply and electricity network can be done independently;
• smooth temperature control and long-term storage of hot water emphasizes the efficiency and comfort of using the device;
• from the boiler, you can conduct an autonomous hot water supply system or connect it to the existing network as a reserve.

If we talk about the shortcomings, then here we can distinguish large dimensions and weight, which complicates the installation on the wall. If you need a small amount of hot water, you will have to heat the contents of the entire tank.

Flow type boilers

Such devices cut directly into the water pipe and produce water heating only when it is consumed. In order for the heating element to have time to heat running water, its power varies from 3 kW or more.

Under such a heater, it may be necessary to lay a separate branch of electrical wiring with a larger cross section. But this does not mean that it will consume more electricity than the storage counterpart. The flow unit heats only the amount of water that is required for use, and not the entire tank. For example, to heat up to 60 about an eighty-liter tank of water with a 2 kW heating element, it will take about half an hour. During this time, 1 kW of electricity is consumed. The flow unit with a 4 kW heating element will immediately supply hot water to the shower for 15 minutes, spending the same 1 kW.

The main advantages of flow models are as follows:

• electricity is consumed only when using water, and at the outlet it is supplied hot immediately after being turned on;
• small dimensions allow you to mount the device in any convenient place.

Unfortunately, there are many more disadvantages:

• installation of reinforced electrical wiring is required;
• weak pressure of hot water at the outlet and the impossibility of directing it to different points from one unit;
• step temperature control is not very comfortable for using, for example, a shower.

To date, the price of flow models is decreasing, so it is possible to install several pieces at different points.

Installation of the flow unit

The instructions supplied with the product will help you connect the flow heater correctly. The circuit is pretty simple. It provides for tapping into the water supply for connecting the unit and supplying electrical wiring of the appropriate section to it.

The instantaneous water heater can have two types of connection:

When using flow heaters, it is necessary to ensure that voltage is not applied without water in the pipes. Otherwise, it may burn out.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a storage boiler

The scheme for installing a storage boiler is a little more complicated. Here you will need to correctly make the wiring of the pipeline, firmly fix the tank, and make the electrical connection.

The choice of a place for the tank and its installation

The storage tank occupies a certain place in the room, so it must be placed efficiently so as not to take up extra space. But at the same time, the boiler should be located as close as possible to the draw-off points. The remote location of the tap from the heater increases the expectation of hot water.

Convenient placement of a storage boiler with a separate bathroom

The place of attachment is chosen according to the layout of the room:

• the layout in a private house is different from apartments. Here, the bathroom, toilet and kitchen can be far from each other, and one boiler must supply hot water to all rooms. Here it is necessary to determine an important room where heated water should be supplied first of all and install a water heater closer to it;
• the traditional layout of the apartment provides for a combination of all these rooms, so it will be easier to choose the location of the tank here.

Most often, the tank is installed above the toilet. It does not occupy usable space and is close to the sewer, which makes it convenient to bleed water from the safety valve. The unit is attached to the wall with anchors. The water tank has a lot of weight, so if the wall is loose under it, an additional support is welded from a profile pipe.

Water connection

The best connection option is considered to be a scheme with the possibility of draining from the water tank.

Step by step work looks like this:

1. The house is disconnected from the cold water supply, and the hot water riser is additionally blocked in the apartment. The collection of all nodes of the circuit starts from the water heater suspended on the wall. To seal the joints, flax or FUM tape is wound on the thread.
2. There are two threaded pipes on the bottom of the tank. On the right is the cold water inlet, marked in blue, and on the left is the hot water outlet, marked in red. Packing starts with cold water.
3. A brass tee is screwed onto the inlet pipe. It must be turned with a transverse hole in a convenient direction to drain the water. A ball valve is screwed into the same hole through a brass adapter. A pipe with a hose for draining water is connected to it. A ball valve is also screwed into the downward thread of the tee to turn off the supply of cold water into the tank.
4. Now it's the turn of the most important - the safety knot. The boiler is equipped with a safety valve, which is mounted immediately after the lower tap on the tee. To install it correctly, there is a guide arrow on the body. On the side of the valve is a fitting for draining water. A transparent reinforced hose is attached to it with a clamp and lowered into the sewer.
5. Native valves are not always reliable, so they often buy a "safety group" separately. It consists of a check valve mounted on a faucet extending from the lower thread of the tee. The safety valve is placed separately on the middle outlet of the tee.
6. Next, it remains to bring cold water. This can be done with any pipes, for example, metal-plastic or eco-plastic as desired. In order not to cut the pipe of the main water supply, the connection can be made through a tee by installing it on the threaded connection of the toilet bowl or washbasin faucet.
7. The hot water unit is assembled in the same way as cold water, only without a valve. In a private house, from the outlet of hot water from the boiler, the pipeline is routed to the water points. In the apartment, the outlet of the water heater is connected to the hot water pipeline. In this case, when the boiler is operating, close the tap on the riser supplying centralized hot water.

At this point, the water heater is connected to the plumbing system, it remains to connect the electrical wiring and can be used for its intended purpose.

Connecting the boiler to an open container

Sometimes in a private house you can find an open storage tank for water installed in the attic instead of a water pipe. You can also connect a water heater to it in a similar way. The only condition is that the unit must be located no closer than 2 m to the tank. And if a pressure of more than 6 bar is created, then a gearbox is placed in front of the boiler.

There are 2 schemes for connecting to an open container:

After completing all connections, the system is tested for performance. If everything was done correctly, the room will be provided with hot water.

In contact with

The boiler in many cases acts as an indispensable equipment built into the water supply system. Its installation is advisable in two cases: if there is only a cold water supply and if there is hot water, which is supplied irregularly.

Often there is a situation when installing a boiler is a more profitable way to provide hot water than using a central hot water supply. In many settlements, water tariffs are very high, which leads to a similar situation.

Water heater installed in the apartment

There are a wide variety of water heaters on the market today. The main indicator by which you should make a choice is the type of device. Allocate storage and flow boilers. The first type has the form of a large tank in which a heating element is installed. This allows you to provide a significant amount of hot water.

As it is used up, the tank is replenished and heated. However, if the water is completely used up, then heating the new one will take some time. The flow boiler is smaller. The question of how to connect the boiler to the water supply is simpler for him - the device is placed on the pipe and works immediately after the tap is opened.

Another parameter by which devices can be classified is the heat source. Most boilers run on electricity, it is easier and safer. However, the cost of energy can be high. Gas equipment is more difficult to install, however, its cost of operation is lower. Certified professionals are required for the installation of a gas heating device. This is the only way to obtain an operating permit, which is issued by state organization supplying gas.

You can also connect a hot water boiler yourself, since the device works in the same way as a conventional electric kettle. It is more difficult to integrate the boiler into the plumbing system. And if for flow devices this usually does not cause problems, then when installing storage boilers, follow the instructions.

Wiring diagram for an electric storage boiler

Before you directly connect the boiler to the water supply system, you should perform the following actions:

Scheme of connecting the storage water heater

• Choose an installation location . It is recommended to choose a place where access to the connecting elements will be provided. They break down quite often and periodically need maintenance, so easy access to them will facilitate many of the work during operation.
• Find a solid foundation . A household boiler can weigh more than 100 kg. The wall on which the boiler will be mounted must be strong enough. Otherwise, a supporting structure will be required.
• Proximity of water pipes . If they are nearby, then this will simplify installation. Otherwise, there is a need for additional pipeline.

The electric boiler is equipped with a heating element. To ensure fast heating, it usually has a large power. Therefore, you should think about the electrical connection in advance.. It is necessary to calculate what section of the wire will be required to provide the device with energy.

In the question of how to properly connect the boiler to the water supply, the work should be carried out in the following sequence:

• Check valve installation.
• Check valve installation.
• Installation of the outgoing system.

The algorithm depends on the pipe material - plastic or steel. It is much easier to join plastic pipes. To work with plastic pipes, you will need a soldering device. Joining steel pipes often requires welding. In plastic pipes, installation is carried out using tees and couplings. Metal-plastic pipes are connected by fittings.

Connection to steel pipes can be made without welding. For this, a tee is used, popularly called "vampire". It is a wide collar, the side of which has a threaded pipe. The tee is fastened to a clean pipe surface. The connection is sealed with rubber pads and fixed with screws. After that, a hole is drilled in the pipe. A stopcock with a flexible hose is screwed into the pipe.

Installation of a flowing electric boiler

For the question of how to connect an instantaneous water heater, there is the following instruction:

Flow water heater connection diagram

1. Shutdown of water supply.
2. Making a cut in the required location of the pipeline.
3. Installation of shutoff valves. This allows the boiler to be dismantled for maintenance or repair without shutting off the water supply.
4. Connecting the inlet and outlet pipes of the heater with shut-off valves using flexible hoses.

Conclusion

Since there are many boilers of various designs on the modern market, it is rather difficult to write a universal installation scheme.

The most important point of the instruction is the need for grounding. Unfortunately, this point is often ignored. Water and electricity are a dangerous combination. To protect yourself from electric shock, you must carefully follow the requirements in the instructions. In addition to grounding, a residual current device is often required.

How to connect a water heater to the water supply - an overview of options

To solve the problem with hot water, not only in the house in the country, but also in the apartment - the installation of a water heater will help.

Currently, manufacturers offer several types of different water heaters, each of which can be installed both in a country house and in an apartment in a bathroom.

As a rule, the most commonly used electric water heater today is either storage type or instantaneous.

Both types of devices have specific features in their work, but in any case, each unit, if connected correctly, can supply hot water to the faucet and shower at the same time.

The operation scheme of any type of electric water heater is based on the conversion of current energy into thermal energy, which means that both the storage and the flow devices must have a heating element.

In any case, if you have a connection diagram at hand, then all the required tools and consumables, installation of any type of heater in a country house or in an apartment in a bathroom can be done by hand.

How to install a water heater in the bathroom to simultaneously supply hot water to the faucet and shower is described in the video posted in our article.

Mounting and installation features

Installation of both storage and flow types of heaters, with the right approach to business, can be done by hand both in the bathroom in the apartment and in the country house.

Of course, in order to do all the work correctly, you must have minimal plumbing skills and know the principle of operation of the selected water heater.

When installing the unit, you should not rush, as you can miss any detail, as a result of which there is a risk that the connection diagram will be broken and the device will not work correctly.

Do-it-yourself installation of a water heater will save significant funds on calling a master and will provide an opportunity to gain experience in performing this type of work.

The installation of a water heater, regardless of its type, is carried out according to certain rules, taking into account safety standards.

Before you start installing a water heating device in a bathroom in an apartment or in a country house, you need to think through every little thing.

You should choose the right place where it will be located.

The device itself must be freely accessible not only at the time of its installation, but also during the entire period of subsequent operation.

In addition, you should pay attention to the surface of the wall on which the device itself will be placed. It must freely support the weight of the device and have a flat surface.

You should also pay attention to the condition of the wiring. For an electric type water heater, the quality and condition of the wires plays an important role and is the key to safe operation.

In addition, it is necessary to check the condition of all pipes and risers in the apartment or in the country and, if necessary, replace them.

At hand should be a diagram of the entire connection, which should also indicate the piping for the shower and faucet.

Device selection

Currently, specialized stores offer a huge selection of water heaters of the most different type, however, a person is arranged in such a way that he is always looking for a device that will have high quality and affordable price at the same time.

In this case, Termex brand units, which are presented in a wide range, will be an excellent choice.

Termex accumulative type devices are distinguished not only by their ease of installation, but also by their reliable design. Termex can be easily installed both in the bathroom in the apartment and in the house in the country.

In addition, the installation of Termex implies the simultaneous supply of hot water to both the shower and the tap in the bathroom.

The water heater of this brand has a special safety valve that protects it from various malfunctions.

Under the Termex brand, water heaters and flow type are produced. These devices are also made only from high-quality components, which guarantees their long service life.

The scheme of operation of the Termex flow type water heater involves the simultaneous supply of water to the shower and faucet when installed in the bathroom.

In addition, the special safety valve installed on the Termex flow device allows you not to worry about its safety.

A distinctive feature of all types of Termex brand water heaters is that their installation does not take much time and can be done by hand.

In any case, when choosing a water heater for an apartment or a house in the country, you should, first of all, pay attention to both the quality of its performance and its appearance.

You should also take an interest in the operating conditions, since the convenience of using the unit in the future largely depends on this.

Installing a flow heater

Flow type water heaters have one characteristic feature, namely, compact dimensions, which allows them to be installed directly under the sink in the kitchen or bathroom.

The heating of the liquid in them occurs in a special metal flask, in which sufficiently powerful heaters are placed.

In view of this, when installing this type of water heaters, it is necessary that the wiring in the country house or in the apartment be in good condition and be able to withstand heavy loads.

It is best to install a separate machine for this water heater, to which to lead a wire with a large cross section.

After the problems with the supply of electricity are solved, you can proceed to the installation of the device itself.

How to connect a water heater: step by step instructions

It can be installed either according to a temporary scheme, or according to a stationary one.

In the first case, it is necessary to insert a special tee into a pipe with cold water and connect it to the device itself through an additional valve.

After that, it remains only to apply voltage to the water heater and open the tap for hot water.

Meanwhile, a stationary installation implies the necessary supply and intake of liquid in pipes parallel to the general plumbing system.

In order to install in this way, it will be necessary to cut tees into the pipes, directly under cold and hot water. Next, shut-off valves are hermetically installed.

This can be done with a fum tape or ordinary tow. After that, it is necessary to connect the inlet pipe of the water heater to the pipe that is responsible for supplying cold liquid.

Then the outlet pipe with a tap is connected, which is responsible for supplying hot water.

If everything works properly, then electricity can be supplied to the water heater, after which hot water should flow from the corresponding tap.

To increase the safety of the entire system, it is recommended to install a safety valve together with the water heater.

How the instantaneous water heater is installed is described in more detail in the video above.

When installing storage-type water heaters, the requirements for electrical wiring are not as strict as those for flow-through ones. In addition, the cost of such devices is much lower.

It should also be noted that a scheme is quite common in which this water heater simultaneously provides water supply to both the shower and the faucet, which explains their popularity.

Installing such a water heater correctly, with all the necessary material and tools, everyone can, and in a fairly short period of time.

First you need to check the condition of the electrical wiring and plumbing system in the apartment, and if there are any malfunctions, they must be eliminated.

Then the water heater itself is fixed on the wall, as shown in the video below, after which it will be necessary to bring not only pipes with wires, but also mount a safety valve.

After the water heater is installed, it is connected to the plumbing system, and a safety valve is also connected.

The subsequent installation consists in the fact that pipes are connected to the corresponding inlets and outlets on the device through a safety valve.

To begin with, the cold pipe is installed and connected, while the safety valve must be in the closed position.

If the installation of any water heater was performed correctly, then hot water will flow from the corresponding tap, while all connections and pipes will be in a sealed state, and the wires will not overheat.

How to install a water heater with your own hands, you can learn in detail on the video, which is posted in our article.

How to install a storage water heater?

Let's figure it out with our own hands on the example of only one model. The sequence of installation of wall-mounted storage water heaters is the same, regardless of model or manufacturer.

Where is the best place to install a storage water heater?

It is easier to answer: where you should not install a water heater.

For example, it is not recommended to hang it over a bathtub or shower, because it is not recommended to splash water on the electrical part of the boiler. If there is not much free space in the bathroom, then you can install a water heater above the washing machine or toilet.

What tools and materials are needed to install a water heater?

To install the water heater, you need hooks with dowels (for suspension), an adjustable wrench, winding (linen) with Unipak paste, corner taps, a tape measure, a pencil (marker), a perforator or an impact drill (depending on the material of the walls), a drill of the appropriate diameter.

Installing a storage water heater

Installation begins with measuring the distance between the fasteners on the boiler itself. Mounts are two brackets on the back of the case at the top. We need two sizes: 1) the distance from the top of the water heater to the bottom of these brackets; 2) the distance between the middle of the brackets. The first size is needed so as not to make the canopies too close to the ceiling - so that the boiler cannot be hung. The second dimension is the distance between the hooks on which the boiler will hang.

We also add to the first size how much it is not a pity, for example, 50 mm, so that the water heater is not close to the ceiling. And we mark the resulting size on the wall from the ceiling in the selected place.

We first draw an center line on the wall, and from it to the left and right in half of the second size. By level, we check that these two marks are on the same horizontal line, otherwise the boiler will hang crookedly:

After marking, you can drill. Remember to make sure that there are no electrical wires running through the drilling points.

drilled; we hammered plastic dowels into the holes and screw the hooks into them:

We screw it in not completely, but leaving a gap of ~ 10 mm between the hooks and the wall - so that you can hang the boiler.

Boiler hung up

A non-return valve, also called a safety valve, is screwed onto the cold supply:

The valve is included with all water heaters. It is needed to protect the water heater from excess pressure that occurs when water expands when it is heated.

Do-it-yourself storage water heater connection

I repeat: a safety valve is installed on the cold water supply pipeline.

Please note: there is an arrow on the valve body indicating the direction of water flow.

A few words about why to put a valve if there is a thermostat in the boiler itself. But if the thermostat does not work, and the water begins to boil, the pressure in the system rises, then the safety valve “takes over”: it opens and releases excess pressure.

Attention! Valves are designed for a certain pressure, which must be taken into account: if the valve is designed for pressure less than in your system, then it will work constantly.

And finally, we connect the water heater to the outlets of the water pipes, on which there should be taps:

It is clear that the pipe outlets must be made in advance, at the design stage, having determined where the water heater will be installed and where the pipes will be connected to it.

Features of outlets for the boiler

The socket must be installed in the bathroom with a protective cover. And the outlet for the boiler must have its own automatic switch - so that each time you do not pull the outlet, but turn it off with a switch (before taking a shower or bath, the boiler must be turned off so as not to get an electric shock through moist air).

Filling the water heater with water and turning it on after installation

To fill the boiler with water, slightly open the tap with cold water (the tap that is for the boiler, and not anyhow).

Important! The boiler does not need to be plugged into the outlet yet!

Then we open the hot tap on the shower or bath faucet and ... nothing should come out of it. We open the hot water supply from the water heater and wait for water to flow from the shower faucet.

It is clear that when the water heater is first filled, the water will not be hot (I remind you: the boiler has not yet been connected to the outlet!), The task now is to make sure that the water is moving through the pipelines properly. It is advisable to remove the grids on the shower mixer so that the debris that is likely to come out of the pipes and not clog these grids.

While the boiler is filling, let's see if there are any leaks. If available, tighten the connections.

The water from the shower faucet went - excellent. The boiler is full. We return the mesh to the mixer tap.

The queue for the inclusion of the boiler in the network. We set the relay-regulator to zero. Plug the boiler into an outlet. Set the temperature. How to set the water temperature for a specific water heater model, it is better to read in the passport for this particular model, and not on Internet sites.

That's all about it how to install storage water heater.

P.S. On this step-by-step instruction on the device of water supply and sewerage with their own hands is completed. I'm glad it helped you.

how to install storage water heater

How to check the water heater heater

Water heaters today are not a luxury, but one of the most necessary devices that saves during periods of water shutdown and lack of hot water, as well as during difficult times of repair work, which, unfortunately, do not happen rarely. However, the water heater will be able to work for a long time and uninterruptedly only if you take care of it and treat it carefully - clean it in time, monitor the safety of its parts, ask yourself in a timely manner “how to check the water heater heater?” and correct it if it is defective.

Studying the design of the water heater will allow for repair work on your own without resorting to the help of specialists, since knowledge of the design allows you to determine the faulty element and have an idea about the procedure for replacing or repairing it. Moreover, the work of this type of work is not so difficult, since water heaters have a fairly simple design: (See also: How to change the TEN in a water heater)

1. The body is the main part of the device. This is the largest component of the water heater, which includes all the others;
2. The heat-insulating layer allows you to protect the unit from heat loss;
3. The tank is another important detail. It is designed to heat incoming cold water;
4. Hot water intake tube;
5. Magnesium anode protects internal elements from corrosion and its destructive effect;
6. TEN is another important element with which water is heated. Not much different from teapot ten;
7. The cold intake pipe supplies cold water;
8. Sensors, which are represented by a thermostat, thermostat and thermal switch. These elements are the only technological representatives in such a device. These parts are responsible for the safety of the entire device, and also contribute to the automatic implementation of heating, as well as independent shutdown;

(See also: How to replace the heating element in the boiler with your own hands)

9. The control panel is a necessary element of any device. In this case, it is a set of indicators that indicate a particular state of the water heater, a mode switching panel, and a thermostat controller.

Electric water heaters with dry heat, like other others, have the same principle of operation, due to the simplicity of their design. Opening the cold water supply starts the process of filling the internal container - the tank. The unit is connected to the network only after the air is bled, which is carried out by means of a hot water intake.

After switching on, the sensors record the temperature of cold water, after which the signal enters the heating element and the circuit closes. From this moment, the incoming water begins the heating procedure. Thanks to a controlled thermostat, the user can set any temperature up to which the device will heat up. After the completion of the heating process, the heating element turns off, and the device itself does not allow the newly heated water to cool down, keeping the temperature at the required level. After the intake of hot water, the algorithm is repeated again. (See also: Sitemap 2)

The electric heater for the water heater is one of the most important parts, which must be cared for tirelessly in order to ensure accurate and long-term operation of the water heater. The indicator on the device makes it easy to find out what process is happening at the moment, since the heating is indicated by a light on, and the non-working state is off.

Of course, modern water heaters are equipped with all sorts of additional elements that facilitate the operation of the device and make it more functional, however, the basic principle of operation does not change from the heap of functions, whether they are water heaters with dry heat or not.

Reasons for replacing the heating element

To ensure long-term and trouble-free operation, it is recommended to clean the device and maintain it at least once a year. This procedure will allow you to identify existing problems in a timely manner and eliminate them, as well as keep the interior of the water heater clean, preventing corrosion from destroying vital parts. It is important to remember that no matter how good the performance of the anode is, anyway, this element will not last more than 17 months in uninterrupted operation. After this time, it must be changed. (See also: How to descale a boiler)

The replacement of the heater in the water heater is carried out depending on its condition, which is why the inspection should be regular, otherwise the breakdown will be a surprise. What does the technical inspection include:

• Disassembly of the device;
• Anode check;
• Checking the heating element;
• Cleaning of scale and deposits;
• Expert opinion.

It is thanks to a full examination by a specialist that it is possible to avoid untimely breakdowns, keep the device clean, monitor its condition, thereby extending and prolonging the life of the device. In addition, the cleaning of deposits has a positive effect on the health of the consumer, since the water, heated in a tank full of sludge, absorbs harmful trace elements.

The anode must be replaced when it is worn by at least 40% relative to its healthy state. It is easy to determine this shabby, you just need to look at it - a terrible look indicates the need for replacement. The magnesium anode is aimed at protecting the tank, taking the entire impact of corrosion on itself, thereby saving the metal of the tank. (See also: How to clean a boiler)

In addition, cleaning is extremely easy, since magnesium, coupled with oxygen, converts deposits into salt, which can be removed with a slight movement of the hand. That is why timely cleaning and replacement of the water heater is also necessary, as is the replacement of the heating element, regardless of the brand of the device, whether it is a Gorenje water heater with a dry heater or some other.

Many do not know how to find out about a heating element malfunction and the need to replace it as soon as possible, however, it is extremely simple to check the condition of the heater in the water heater:

1. If, when turned on, the RCD is constantly triggered. This moment indicates either a current leakage or a short circuit. Of course, the first thing to think about is the heating element.
2. The water does not heat up when the device is turned on. Of course, the refusal to produce heating is directly related to the failure of the heating element. In this case, you will need a multimeter, with which it is easy to identify the malfunction. The presence of voltage on the contacts during the test indicates a breakthrough.
3. Mechanical damage that is visible during inspection may also suggest an imminent replacement or a heating device that is currently needed.

Draining

The first thing to do before you start disassembling the water heater to replace the heating element is to drain the water, which can be done in four ways:

Simple equipment works in direct conjunction with a heating boiler, which is the source of energy for heating water in a storage water heater.

The efficiency of heating and providing hot water to all consumers of the house in full will directly depend on whether the piping of the boiler with an indirect heating boiler is correctly selected and implemented. .

Indirect heating boiler device

Connection Features

An indirect heating boiler is a storage tank, inside which one or more tubular heat exchangers are located. The hot coolant from the boiler unit circulates through the coil and heats the water in sufficient volume for domestic and household needs.

The principle of operation of the water heater is simple, difficulties arise during the installation and piping of thermal equipment.

Therefore, it will not be superfluous even before starting work to find out the features of connecting a water-heating device:

• The closer the boiler is to the boiler , the more efficient the heat exchange from the heating system.
• Water heater installation must be made in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations - wall models are attached to the wall, floor models are installed on the floor.
• Cold water flow should be supplied through the lower pipe, and the hot intake - through the upper one, then the recirculation point will be in the center of the tank itself.
• Branch pipes for the inlet and outlet of the coolant should "look" towards the heating device. The movement of hot water or antifreeze through the coil must be from top to bottom.

Compliance with these simple rules guarantees the efficient operation of the boiler-boiler system, the efficiency of the heater reaches its maximum and there is enough hot water for all consumers.

Strapping scheme options

Tying an indirect heating water heater involves connecting the pipelines of the heating boiler and the water supply system.

Connecting a storage water heater in an apartment - there will always be hot water

The efficiency of the entire system, both hot water and heating, depends on the correct installation and piping of the boiler.

Three common schemes are used:

• With the use of a servo and a three-way valve.
• With the use of two circulation pumps.
• With a hydraulic gun.

Scheme 1: piping an indirect heating boiler using a servomotor and a three-way control valve

This connection option is the simplest, it is used with a large consumption of hot water. Two circuits are connected to the heating boiler: the main one (for supplying heat to radiators or a water-heated floor system) and an auxiliary one (for heating water in the boiler). In order to correctly distribute the flow of coolant from the boiler unit, a three-way separating valve is connected between these circuits.

The temperature controller controls the temperature of the water in the water heater tank, and, when the set value is reached, it sends a signal to the valve actuator, which redirects the coolant flow to the heating circuit. When the water temperature in the boiler drops, the reverse switching occurs - the coolant enters the coil.

In this scheme, it is important to correctly adjust the operation of the thermostat - the temperature set in the water heater must be lower than that set on the thermostat of the heating boiler.

Otherwise, the coolant will not be able to heat the water in the tank of the water heater to required temperature, respectively, the valve will not switch the heat flow to the heating circuit.

Boiler piping with servomotor and three-way valve

Scheme 2: piping a water heater with two pumps

Instead of a distribution valve, two pumps can be installed in parallel - for the heating circuit and the DHW. The pumps are controlled by the same thermostat installed in the boiler, which switches the operating mode of the pumping equipment to the specified parameters.

Here, too, the boiler circuit is given priority over the heating circuit, so the DHW pump is installed first. In this case, the efficiency of space heating will not decrease - the water in the boiler heats up quickly, so there is no critical decrease in temperature in the heating circuit.

In such a scheme, a check valve must be installed at the outlet of each pump - it will eliminate the mixing of oncoming coolant flows.

Piping a water heater with two pumps

Scheme 3: piping a boiler with a hydraulic arrow

The use of a hydraulic arrow is relevant for a heating system with large quantity independent branches - for a boiler, underfloor heating, several radiator circuits, etc.

Each individual circuit has its own recirculation pump, so without a hydraulic distributor, some problems may arise in the system:

Boiler piping for indirect heating with hydraulic switch

• Operation in abnormal mode will lead to failure of pumping equipment.
• System imbalance.
• Even when the pumps are stopped, heating of the radiators from the flows of other working devices is possible.
• The possibility of thermal shocks and, as a result, the destruction of cast-iron elements of heating equipment.

The hydraulic arrow stabilizes the pressure and flow of the coolant in all directions, evenly distributes heat between consumers and prevents the occurrence of thermal shocks. But the piping scheme for an indirect heating boiler with a hydraulic water flow separator causes certain difficulties in the design, installation and adjustment of operating devices, therefore, specialists should implement this connection option.

Boiler piping for indirect heating with recirculation

If hot water is not consumed for a long period of time, it starts to cool down. When you turn on the tap, you have to wait a few minutes until the hot flow from the boiler reaches the consumer. To reduce the time for draining the cooled water, they use a water heater piping with recirculation - the heated flow is forced to move through a closed cycle of pipelines and almost instantly “delivers” hot water to any point of consumption.

To implement such a scheme, another circuit with its own circulation pump is additionally mounted to the boiler, and additional piping elements are installed:

• Non-return valve (prevents back flow of water in the pipeline).
• Expansion tank (compensates pressure in the DHW circuit when the taps are closed).
• Automatic air vent (excludes airing of the pump).
• Safety valve (protects the water heater from overpressure).

Boiler piping for indirect heating with recirculation

The choice of a piping scheme for DHW and heating circuits, with or without the possibility of recirculation, depends on the characteristics of the heating system, accurate calculations of the power of the equipment and the need for hot water.

If you have any difficulties with the design and execution of work, it is better to seek help from specialized companies.