What is a win in chess called? What is an opening in a chess game
The chess kingdom has its own wonders, its own secrets. As in any country, there is morning, afternoon, evening. Our morning is called the French word "debut" - this is the beginning of a chess game. Then comes the day, or, as the Germans would say, the middlegame "mid game". Well, as it gets dark, the evening will come - the endgame, which means "end of the game."
Remember! Figures must be taken out carefully and placed, and not poured onto the table! Otherwise, they will all quickly break down or be lost. Today, finally, you will start the first chess battle in your life. Let's get ready chessboard to fight. Let's arrange the pieces on the future battlefield. Place the board with the first row in front of the one who will play white pieces today.
Now let's look at the battlefield. To make it easier to command, we will divide the board. The first four horizontals are the territory of whites, the remaining four are the possessions of blacks. To the left of the white queen will be the QUEEN'S FLANK, to the right of the king, the KING'S FLANGE. Fields d4, d5, e 4, e 5 - we will call the CENTER.
Where to begin? Where to begin? In the shortest possible time, you need to mobilize your forces, withdraw troops to the best positions for attack, build impregnable trenches with the help of pawns, have time to reliably protect your general staff (king) and conduct reconnaissance in force. This stage of the game is called the DEBUT. The center can be compared to the height. Whoever owns the height has a huge advantage. Strive with your pieces to occupy the center at the very beginning of the game! From there, it will be convenient for your figures to look in all directions. They will be able to launch an attack and come to the aid of the king.
E7 - e5 e7 - e5 (When writing the game, black's move is also placed under the number "1", but after "..."). Black's first move: Declared their agreement to conduct military operations. They also captured one of the central squares, exercised control over the d4 and f4 squares, opened the way for their bishop and queen. Prevent whites from invading. Kg1 – f3 Kg1 – f3... White's second move: Brought the knight into battle. The knight attacked the opponent's pawn. It has long been known that the best defense is an attack. The knight exercises control over the central squares d4, e5. They prevent the queen from moving to the squares g5, h4. In the future, the knight can help its d2-pawn fight for the central d4-square.
2. Kb8–c6 3. Cf1–c4 Nf8–c5 4. Kb1–c3 Kg8–f6 5. d2–d3 d7–d6 6. Cc1–g5 Cc8–g4 Six moves were made in our game. During this time, both white and black brought out all their minor pieces. Notice that the horses turned their faces towards the center, and the elephants tied up the horses. All the pieces are well placed around the chess center, all are protected and ready for offensive operations.
To lead a good game of chess, follow the basic opening principles: 1. Strive for the fastest development of pieces; 2. Do not move several times with one piece; 3. Arrange your pieces so that they do not interfere with each other; 4. Do not withdraw your queen at the beginning of the game unnecessarily; 5. Try to understand the meaning of each move; 6. Try to get ahead of the enemy in the development of pieces - you will get good chances for an attack. 7. Do not engage in pawn-eating in the opening - you will lag behind in development. 8. Try to establish control over the center. 9. Think about the safety of the king. It is better to send your king into saving castling. 10. Do not build "traps" for the enemy - you will fall into them yourself, but you will not learn how to play well.
Literature: The book "Chess for Children, Parents and Teachers", authors: Kostrov Vsevolod and Davletov Jalil, St. Petersburg Sukhin I. Chess Tale // Sukhin I. Adventures in the Chess Country. - M .: Pedagogy, Sukhin I. Chess, the first year, or I study and teach: A teacher's manual - Obninsk: Spiritual revival, Internet resources: Pictures "Teaching a child the rules of chess" pravilam-igry-v-shaxmaty.htmlhttp://isoveti.ru/raznoe/uchim-rebenka-pravilam-igry-v-shaxmaty.html
Good afternoon dear friends! How to start a chess game? This question is asked by every newbie. We will tell you what to do in the opening.
Before us is the initial position from which each game in chess begins. So how do you start a chess game? In this position, White (and it is they who start!) theoretically can make as many as 20 (twenty!) moves. But not all of them are good. The fact is that the right of the first move gives White the opportunity to fight for the initiative and a better position. You must have heard the saying “White starts and wins!” Indeed, as the tournament practice of middle and high-level chess players shows, in most cases White gets the best opportunities.
In general, a chess game, if it is played without gross errors on the part of each of the partners, can be conditionally divided into three main stages.
The first stage is the opening (the beginning of a chess game). At this stage, both sides deploy their forces for the upcoming battle, capture the best positions for their pieces, secure their king. The opening, as a rule, includes the first 10-15 moves.
Immediately after the opening, the second stage begins - the middle game (mid game). It is in the middlegame that hot battles of pieces take place, brilliant and most beautiful combinations are carried out, a stubborn strategic struggle is waged on the basis of harmoniously developed pieces at the beginning of a chess game.
If the game does not end with a rout or mating attack by one of the sides in the middlegame, the game goes, after a lot of exchanges of pieces and pawns, to the final stage - the endgame. In the endgame, the advantage achieved by one of the parties is realized, and if neither side has such an advantage, then the struggle for it continues.
Starting a game and playing the opening, every chess player (if he wants to bear this proud title!) must remember that all his actions in the opening directly affect the nature of the struggle in the middlegame, and in some cases, the endgame! Therefore, from the very first moves, you need to take every move responsibly.
In general, in chess it is desirable to make all your moves for some purpose. Aimless moves will quickly lead to equalization of the game (if you play white), and if you continue to make them, they will lead to inevitable defeat, especially against a stronger opponent. If, on the other hand, you practice “trampling around” (and this is precisely what aimless moves in the opening mean, unlike other stages of the game), playing black pieces, then the game may not go into the middlegame ... Therefore, it is very important to know how to play the opening correctly.
Let's think a little about the position on the diagram. White can, on his first move, either move one of the pawns one or two squares, or move one of the knights. It looks preferable to go with a knight, since the piece is immediately introduced into battle (let's take note). Go ahead. One or two knights will not be able to do anything - the help of other pieces is needed. Therefore, sooner or later they will have to open the way... And now the question is: what pawn move will open the way for more pieces? What is there to think - you will answer - and you will be right: 1.е3 or 1.е4. After one of these moves, the way for the bishop and queen is open! That's right, and now one more question: which of the above moves is better?
Let's see what the move 1.e3 gives us: 1) opens the way for the queen and bishop; 2) the pawn that made the move takes control of the squares d4 and f4. And what gives the move 1.e4: 1) opens the way for the queen and bishop; 2) the pawn that made the move takes control of the squares d5 and f5; 3) the e3 square (behind the pawn) becomes available for one of the pieces, for example, the bishop, which will create a stable position for such a piece (it will not be so easy to drive it from such a position with the opponent’s pawn, unlike the situation when there is no pawn in front of the piece). Thus, the move 1. e4 gives more advantages, so we will do it.
This move leads to an interesting open or semi-open game. For beginners, in order to learn how to play faster, and most importantly, to learn how to play correctly, at first they need to strive for an open, initiative game. Openings that occur after this move lead precisely to such positions. That's why I recommend starting the game with White 1.е4.
If you play with black pieces, then I recommend that at first you respond symmetrically 1. ...e5, solving the same problems: 1) opening the way for your queen and bishop; 2) taking control of the fields in the enemy camp d4 and f4; 3) the e6 square behind the pawn becomes available to the pieces. In addition, by moving 1. ... e5 Black fundamentally prevents the further movement of the white pawn from e4 to e5 in order to further seize space.
Now I hope every beginner understands how to start a chess game!
This time I would like to tell you something about chess. Many of us know the rules of this game, but usually that's all there is to it. That is, a person only knows how each piece moves, and what a checkmate is to the king (and that castling exists is generally known only to the elite).
Not so long ago, I became interested in chess a little more seriously (it became uninteresting to move pieces aimlessly, and even not productively). I leafed through a couple of books on strategy and tactics, played several hundred games and already managed to learn some lessons for myself.
First of all, I must say that if one of you wants to become a professional player, he will have to memorize the openings for a long and tedious time (the opening is the first moves of the game, during which the pieces are withdrawn and the starting position is taken for a successful attack / defense), various king checkmate positions and other theory.
If you just want to learn how to play chess well (above average), learn only the basic principles will suffice. It is with them that I want to introduce you in this post.
Basic principles of strategy and tactics in chess
1. Be sure to remember the value of each figure:
queen - 9 points
rook - 5 points
elephant - 3 points
horse - 3 points
pawn - 1 point
These figures are very important to consider when exchanging pieces. Let's say that exchanging a knight and a bishop for a rook is unprofitable, and two rooks are predominantly stronger than a queen. However, it is always worth considering the current position. If you have a bishop, which simply has nowhere to go because of your own and enemy pawns, exchange it for a knight or a mobile bishop of the enemy as soon as possible. Especially it refers to the exchange of a horse<->elephant.
2. In the opening, try to develop your pieces as soon as possible (bring them to advantageous positions from which a large space is "shooting through"), and also occupy the center with pawns. It's better for beginners to start with the pawn move e2-e4 for white and answer e7-e5 for black. I also advise you to still learn at least the first 5 moves of the opening of three, four knights, the Hungarian Defense and other openings starting with e2-e4.
3. At the first opportunity (if there is no aggravated struggle at the moment), castling. Castling is done by moving the king two squares to the right or left, and the rook, towards which the king moves, becomes to the left or right of the king, respectively. Castling is possible only if the king and the corresponding rook have not moved, there are no pieces between them, and the squares between them have not been attacked by the enemy. Also, castling is not possible during a check to the king.
4. Learn to trade pieces correctly - not just on points. Let's say if the opponent has developed a knight by making 2-3 or more moves, and you beat him with a bishop that has not made a single move so far, such an exchange will most likely be beneficial, because you win the tempo (in other words, you win in terms of speed in development).
5. An exchange can also be beneficial, in which the opponent doubles the pawns (say, the knight was under the protection of the pawn, after capturing it by the bishop, the pawn takes the knight and finds itself in front of another pawn). With rare exceptions, double pawns have a negative effect on the position.
6. Pay close attention to where you put the pieces, where they end up in the process of exchanging. Try to keep the figure in control as much as possible large quantity squares (a figure controls those squares that are under attack from it, the square on which the figure itself is located is not controlled by it). So, for example, a knight should not be placed at the edge of the board, and a bishop should not be blocked by pawns. Remember that the knight is strongest in the center of the board, the bishops are on open diagonals (the longer the diagonal, the better), and the rooks are on open and half-open files (when there is not a single pawn on the way, or only an opponent's pawn).
7. If possible, try to move your pawns closer to the enemy camp, this will cramp his position. However, do not forget about the protection of the king - if you open it to check, then you can lose a lot of tempo.
8. Try to get passed pawns (which have no enemy pawns on the way or on the adjacent files) - remember that this is a big threat to the enemy (a pawn, having reached the end of the board, can turn into any piece), and sometimes a pawn easily ties one of the opponent's pieces, which will be forced to block it.
9. In the endgame (the stage when most of the pieces have already been exchanged) in no case do not forget about the king - he can easily defend his own pieces, attack enemy ones and will be a good help in attacking or advancing pawns to queens.
10. Try to think at least one move ahead (a move is the movement of a white and then a black piece, i.e. two half-moves). If any of the pieces is under attack, immediately count the number of attackers and defenders to find out who will benefit from the exchange if it is captured.
11. After each move of the enemy, analyze the change in position - which of your pieces were under attack, which pieces of the enemy were weakened, immediately take appropriate measures. Remember that mindfulness in chess is just needed. By the way, the most common mistake of beginners: they often pay attention only to what pieces were attacked by a piece that just came up, but do not pay attention to the so-called. open attack. For example, if the pawn was like and opened the bishop, which is now attacking the queen.
12. Pay special attention to such combinations and techniques as a fork (an attack with a piece on two enemy ones at once), an open attack (see above), an open check (for example, a bishop, attacking a queen, opens a rook, which immediately checks the king - this way you can take the enemy queen), double check, etc. Also, make sure that the enemy himself does not put a fork on you. Forks with a knight are especially formidable (because in this case it is impossible to close from an attack), in particular on the squares c7, f7 and c2, f2.
13. Be sure to learn how to checkmate (one king) from any position with a king and a queen, a king and a rook, and, preferably, two bishops (although this position occurs quite rarely, and checkmate here is very difficult). To do this, watch the video tutorials of Evgeny Grinis below.
14. Be sure to learn the options for a "childish checkmate" and the correct reaction to an attempt to deliver it (also available in the lessons of Evgeny Grinis).
15. Always consider the current opportunity to check the king - evaluate which pieces can be attacked at the same time as the check (perhaps there are undefended ones), the possible reaction of the opponent - whether you will win position or pace with the most probable response of the opponent.
16. Remember that one of the most powerful moves in chess are moves that have multiple goals at once, such as attacking two undefended pieces at once, attack + open attack, exchanging an ineffective piece and opening up space for castling, etc. In this way, you can either win material, or tempo, or both at once.
That, in general, and everything, for a start it is quite enough. Using these tips, you can easily beat an unprepared opponent, or even compete with someone more experienced.
And yet it is important to understand what to underestimate experience not possible in any case. The more games you play, the better you will work out the above principles, the more positions and combinations you will memorize (it is not necessary to memorize them, many combinations are remembered by themselves when you play them enough times). You can play both with other people and with the computer. It should be noted that playing with people is much more interesting, because the psychological factor plays a big role here (for example, a person can be set a trap with bait, but this will not work with a computer).
For those who want to go a little deeper into the study of chess, I post two textbooks by Yasser Seirawan - one on strategy, the second on tactics.
Video tutorials from Evgeny Grinis
Chess for beginners. Basics of chess 1. Rules of chess. Comparative value of chess pieces
Chess for beginners. Chess Basics 2. Checkmate a lone king
Chess for beginners. The computer plays without a queen and two rooks
Chess. Opening Theory 1. Philidor Defence, Ponziani Opening
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Instruction
The main goal of the chess opening is rapid mobilization, i.e. bringing pieces to the strongest positions. The most important principle of mobilization is consistency. All your figures should develop as a whole. Never play with just one piece. Remember the golden rule of wartime: any attack that is not covered from the rear is doomed to failure.
Never play queen at the beginning of a chess game. The queen is the most expensive piece. It is worth nine pawns. Acting alone, the queen will be an easy target. While the opponent is developing, your queen will run around the board, escaping from attacks. You will lose the pace of development and lose party.
Save the pace of development. Never move the same piece twice - you lose pace. Avoid situations where your piece is forced to make an extra move. Your task, as a player, is to choose the best one from the set of moves.
As the great Philidor said: “Pawns are the soul of chess”. Build a strong pawn chain, don't let the enemy cut pawns with impunity. Properly lined up, they will obstruct the enemy's light pieces. The enemy will not be able to “at full gallop” break into your camp. Pawns, in turn, will cover your attack well.
Capture strong positions quickly. The strongest position of any piece is the center of the board. The closer the figure is to the center, the greater its maneuverability and influence. If you manage to capture the center of the board, you will gain a tactical advantage that may lead you to victory.
Protect the king. He, as the most vulnerable figure, must be reliably protected. The only way to protect the king is to castle according to the location of the opponent's pieces so that the fortification is not under direct attack.
Do not immediately try to attack the enemy king at the beginning of a chess game. Create a strategic plan. Direct the attack to the enemy's weak positions.
The second stage of the game, the middle game, is considered the stage of active combinational actions. The scope of tactical maneuvers in the middlegame depends on the game at the beginning of the chess game. When playing the opening, try to anticipate where you will end up in the end.
chess party It is customary to divide into three parts - opening, middlegame and endgame. To win, in the opening, bring pieces into battle faster so that none of them fall behind. In the middle of the game - the middle game - attack the enemy king with all your might. In the final stage, when most of the pieces have been exchanged, to help the remaining pieces, bring the king into battle to win pawns.
Instruction
If you know that the opponent is playing much stronger, agree on a handicap. Otherwise, due to the obvious inequality of forces, the party will not be of interest to either you or your partner. A handicap is an advantage that a weak player receives before the start of the game. Remove your partner's queen from the board and start party. If you can win, use the rook as a handicap next time, and so on. - until you learn to fight on equal terms.
At the beginning of the game, capture the center of the board with pawns. Most likely, the opponent will do the same, but at least one of your pawns must be on the central square. If you play with white pieces, fight for the e4 and d4 squares. When playing with black, the nearest targets are the squares e5 and d5.
As soon as possible, introduce "light" pieces into the game - horses and elephants. Place them so that you control the center of the board. Playing white, the knights can be brought to the squares c3 and f3, and the bishops - to c4 and f4. Do the same if your pieces are black. Another option is to attack horses with elephants. If the partner has placed the knight on f6, bring the bishop to g5. There are other schemes of the game, which you will get acquainted with later.
One of the key tasks is to hide the king from the opponent's attacks. Castling quickly to reach your goal.
Enter the remaining pieces into battle - the queen and rooks. Place them on open and semi-open lines, i.e. on files completely or partially free of pawns. These figures are called heavy, they need room for maneuver.
Avoid unfavorable exchanges of pieces and pawns. A knight or bishop is roughly equal in strength to three pawns. If you give up the knight, but take away three pawns from the opponent, this is an equivalent exchange. Similarly with the bishop - giving it away for two pawns is unprofitable. But you can change the knight to the bishop - the balance on the board will not be disturbed. A rook is roughly equal to five pawns. Therefore, you can give it for a bishop and two pawns. A queen is roughly equal to nine pawns. It can be exchanged for a rook, a knight and a pawn, because 9 = 5 + 3 + 1. Carefully count the strengths of the pieces and don't make mistakes. The strength of a king is not measured because he is not
Good evening.
For beginners, a very extensive topic on the type of pawn configurations was completed before the holidays.
Were considered a variety of situations, pluses and minuses.
Of course, this material was only for the very beginning level of the game. Each of the considered pawns will have a lot of features in different game situations. Gradually, with the accumulation of experience, you will be able to expand the kaleidoscope of impressions about the same doubled or isolated pawns. In the records, they are presented almost as a tombstone of the party playing with them. And in fact, there are many examples when it is very, very good!
Even before pawns, there were entries in the journal about how to play well and badly with knights, bishops, rooks, queens and kings. It seems that beginners already have the most general picture from the magazine.
Let's take a step-by-step look at what to stick to at the beginning of the game, and what to do after the end of the opening!
Records 1-2 I will take to the debut through the eyes of beginners.
And more (records 4-5) to search for motives for playing right after the debut (in the early middlegame).
About the beginning of the party.
It seems that what I bring to each student (regardless of age) is as elementary and tangible as the skin of the face, that there should be no difficulties in “staging a HEALTHY DEBUT for a beginner”! But surprisingly ... some of what was said comes after 2-5 and even in some cases after 25 repetitions! Especially for preschoolers and younger students of course.
If an adult is able (even if he doesn’t fully understand something) to take it on blind faith, then children rarely go through with them. Often or have a weak memory for incoming information in the head (it's not commonplace for some). In addition, I observe a persistent rejection of 50% of children for the imposition of information. The transformation of their game into learning and into an object of criticism also causes unconscious protest.
For such guys, unfortunately, the process of growing up in chess is protracted. They will do what they want, they will ignore the demands and finally give up before the urgent demand “do not play the extreme pawns”, “do not bring the rooks through the African continent”, “do not block the bishop’s path with the queen”, “do not play with one knight”……
Then, after the 10th exposure and with purely sporting arguments (Oleg began to beat you regularly), they are also included in loyalty. But it would be better if they immediately adopted the formula “the coach will not ask in vain.”
By the way, I noticed that those who initially do not protest in the lessons at the beginning of the game, and listen with both ears, they have a correlation in purely chess success and in academic performance in school subjects. The same girls and boys pass the level of “yawning” faster than others, they are the fastest able to move on to solving problems in 2-3 moves.
At first, this obstinacy of some children angered me. But then, I found a way to influence them. Since they need more repetitions of the same thing ... I came up with a “handout” for them, where you need to indicate right choice out of 4 possible solutions in the opening. Answered three positions correctly - you are allowed to play at the end of the lesson. I did not answer one or all - there are still "triple tasks". The method is working on any of the components I have named below today.
Today I will give the most elementary and formalized thesis. The calculation here is for an adult reader. For children, for each item (!) I have everything painted in “children's language” on 9 sheets of A4.
The beginning of the game ("debut") usually lasts the first 10-12 moves. After that, the parties enter into an early middle game.
The value of the debut for the player from the level of "international master" is very significant! That's all or almost all. Separate long conversation in illustrations. But for a beginner, everything is much, much, much easier !!! It is enough to follow the most primitive general rules, which are universal for any chess beginning.
I will say more, I am generally against touching on the specific order of moves for my students until they themselves express their preferences having reached at least 2 ranks. My coach thought that the debut was not his concern - and this independent work student at home. He could only in general terms advise and point out vulnerabilities. The same approach I adhere to and myself becoming a coach.
The main purpose of the debut is to prepare your combat forces for a decisive battle. Therefore, do everything possible so that in the first 10-12 moves you not only manage to bring all your combat units to the battlefield, but also choose the most appropriate positions for them, taking into account the enemy’s response development. If you are ahead of your opponent in this matter, you have an advantage already at the very beginning of the game, or at least opportunities rich in initiative. In addition, the beginning of the party is the time to take care of your king! Make it difficult to capture him, and this is half the guarantee that you will not be beaten in 10-15 moves.
The most important:
1. Pay attention to the center of the board (cells e4, e5, d4, d5) - from the very first moves, try to claim these cells with pawns and pieces entering the game. If your minor pieces (horses and bishops) will at least partially control (ready to jump there or physically occupy) one or two of these cells, most likely the development of your piece is flawless! For children, I tell that the board is like a winter lake, and there are only four places to fish. It is there that all fishermen strive to drill holes :-)). The concept of "fish places" - for some reason, is remembered much better than just the center.
Even if the bishop or rook will only watch the center from afar through its pawns or pieces, this is a very, very good sign.
2. Chess timing in the opening is paramount! You need to spend it exclusively on the output of pieces in the game. Ideally, every move a new piece should enter the game! This should be treated the same way as players entering the field from the penalty box in hockey. If three against five play on the field, expect trouble. In chess, retribution for lagging behind in development can sometimes come immediately!
3. Even if we play pawns at the beginning of the game, then let it be a forced necessity after the bishops enter the game. Without playing the central or knight pawn, we will not withdraw them. That is why playing with central pawns for two moves is the most popular type of first moves - here is the struggle for the center and the road for bishops! Two strong decisions at the same time.
4. Castling should be done almost as soon as the opportunity presents itself! If you are 1-2 moves ahead of your opponent in this component, the opening can easily follow your dictation! What needs to be done for this and when it works especially well is a separate conversation.
Remember the simple truth - if you open the book "400 chess miniatures" (especially short games), then in 3 out of 4 games the reason for the defeat was that someone simply did not have time to castle.
Give preference (especially with Black!) to short castling, for its execution you need to remove only 2 pieces, it takes longer to make a long one - you will have to remove 3 pieces there and it is less reliable in tactical terms)
Smaller signs that you are doing the most expedient possible in the opening, they are subordinate to the first four main ones or are an independent, but less ironclad rule.
5. Do not play the same piece for more than one move without a clear need or a strong weighty goal. Jumping with one knight, you take the exit time from your other pieces. There are a lot of contenders for each move in the opening - treat it responsibly.
6. Avoid taking the knights to the outer squares. They are the most distant from the center, and the horse on them has few prospects. There are exceptions, but for now, just make it a rule not to play like that.
7. Don't bring your pieces in front of the central pawns. This is especially true for bishops and queens! Pawns located on the "d" and "e"-files. They have a special mission. If the pawns that form the castling of our king are functionally like “bricks in a fortress wall” and must be a tightly closed defensive redoubt, then here are the two central ones - they are like “two gloves” for a boxer! A chess player fights with them and defends his right to the best possible squares on the board. Let's stop our central pawn with the bishop ourselves - it's the same as fighting only with the left hand ...
8. Don't play queen too early! It is not the job of the king to be ahead of the troops when the position has not yet been formed. There is nothing good in the early raids of the queen, and there cannot be. On the contrary, it will create the prerequisites for the advancing development of the opponent. The enemy, competently attacking the queen, will lead his pieces into battle, and our lungs will stand as observers at the starting positions ...
9. good queue to move the queen comes after the exit of 2 knights, 1-2 bishops and castling. Here, freeing the last row for the rooks can be very useful, and the field of its best position will be more clear.
10. Ideally, refuse to play with extreme pawns in the opening! You can definitely afford it without any damage. The same can be said about the bishop's pawns (although it's not so obvious about the queen's bishop's pawn. It's also not advisable to play with the knight's pawns. An exception is the lateral development of the bishop "to the house".
11. Do not open too many roads for your elephant. If you decide to take the bishop through the move of the central pawn, do not be smart and do not organize a second gate in “your garage”. This is both a waste of time and more holes in the pawn structure.
12. Usually, but not always! It makes sense to first bring out a knight or even two, and only then a bishop, which will ensure a quick castling. To display the bishop first - to give the opponent too much information about yourself. The exit of elephants greatly affects possible development enemy forces.
13. Rooks are those pieces that finish their mobilization last. Therefore, if there are no open files in the position, then it is better to wait for this for now, and not twitch back and forth with the rooks. You or your opponent will certainly open the game with a pawn or piece exchange, and then the rook will play on open line It's time. Rooks placed in the center, even without opening the lines, are often very good too.
14. Before you castled, your weakest spot is f2 and f7. I do not recommend moving these pawns before castling and be prepared for their early attack. Therefore, you need to castle as soon as possible.
15. Play as immodestly as possible, but brazenly. If there is a choice to play simply and play with an evil intention, or even to withdraw a piece with an attack, choose the second! But don't get carried away. Play only for the combination of aggression and development.
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In the next post, I will give examples of unsuccessful opening play and indicate which principles were violated in each case.
If there are any point questions on the topic, I will be happy to answer in the comments.