Reinforcement of aerated concrete walls. How to install a front door in aerated concrete house

Install narrow doors, mounting them using special fasteners. This will make the structure solid.

Entrance door

An old English proverb says, "My home is my castle." So that "the fortress does not fall at the mercy of the winner" in the absence of the owner, you need the correct installation of the door into the aerated concrete wall.

Aerated concrete, popular due to its efficiency, has a significant drawback - low strength. It is possible to install a door in the opening of a block wall, but the fragility of the material will lead to a gradual loosening of a heavy metal door. It is not uncommon for poorly secured doors to fall out of the opening along with the door frame. There are several ways to secure the door securely.:

1. Structural reinforcement with an embedded part (performed simultaneously with the laying of walls).
2. Reinforcement with wood construction.
3. Reinforcement with a metal structure.

The width and height of the doorways are determined during the construction phase of the walls. Here you can not do without in size with the help of a special power tool or a conventional one.

Strengthening the opening of the mortgage

The first method of fastening is reliable. It is provided by the project documentation for the house.

Simultaneously with the laying of the walls, the doorway in the aerated concrete wall is reinforced with an embedded part from a metal corner with a section of at least 100x75x8 mm with a mustache welded to it through 600 - 900 mm from corrugated reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. Mustaches are laid in the seam of the masonry.

Mortgages are installed on each side of the opening, their number depends on the height of the door. With a height of 2.1 m, there are three mortgages.

In the upper section, the whiskers are laid in the seams between the elements of the jumper.

The box is attached to the embedded anchors.

Sequence of work:

1. Produce the required number of mortgages with welded whiskers;
2. Perform anti-corrosion protection of mortgages;
3. Install mortgages in the process of maintaining masonry walls;
4. Level the box vertically and horizontally;
5. Fasten the box to the embedded anchors;
6. Fill the seams with mounting foam;
7. From the front side, protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation with a plaster mortar.

All connections are welded; the length of the mustache of mortgages is not less than 1200 mm; elements in contact with masonry and mortar are protected with an anti-corrosion coating.

Strengthening the opening with a timber structure

Unfortunately, not all creators of projects, especially typical ones, are concerned about protecting housing from unauthorized entry. If the walls are erected, and there is no metal framing of the entrance door opening, the opening is reinforced in the second way - with an overhead structure made of wood.

In this case along the perimeter of the opening, a U-shaped strapping of boards is attached to the thickness of the wall. External and internal piping is made of timber with a section of at least 40x60 mm or boards 40x100 mm. The strappings are connected to each other with a board 20-40 mm thick with self-tapping screws. The wooden frame is fixed to the slopes with anchors. So that the frame does not protrude from the plane of the wall, along the perimeter of the opening from the side of the facade, you can cut a strobe to the size of the beam. The door frame in the opening is fastened with anchors.

Sequence of work:

1. Prepare the wall with a reinforcing primer or mesh;
2. By the size of the opening, prepare two sets of timber - two in height, one in width;
3. Fasten the U-shaped structures with anchors and install in the opening from the outside and inside;
4. Frame the slope, fastening the structure with self-tapping screws or anchors (dowel - screws);
5. Fasten the frame to the slopes with the dowel - with screws;
6. Insert the box into the opening and fasten it with anchors;
7. Perform the sealing of the joints in the same way as the first method.

Use wood impregnated with flame retardant and antiseptic. For this design, it is better to use "heavy" varieties of wood - oak, larch.

The wood structure will narrow the doorway by about 100 mm. Safe evacuation standards require the width of the front door leaf to be at least 800 mm, and the width of the opening - 900 mm. As a result, an increase in the opening may be required, which is not always feasible.

Strengthening the opening with a metal frame

The third method constructively repeats the previous one, but is made of metal.

Corners are cut according to the size of the doorway with a profile of at least 100x75x8: two openings in height, one in width - two sets: facade and internal.

Corners are connected by welding into the frame, frames frame the outer and inner faces of the wall.

Then frames are connected to each other by overlays made of metal plates 50 wide, 3-4 mm thick, the length of the plate depends on the wall thickness, after 500-600 mm. There must be at least three plates along the height of the door. Instead of plates, the corners can be fixed with reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm.

The slopes are plastered after the binding. Then the door is installed. The box is anchored to the metal corners of the frame.

Sequence of work:

1. Prepare the wall for work (strengthening the masonry with a primer or mesh);
2. Prepare metal for framing: two sets of corners - two in the height of the opening, one in width, connecting plates (the number depends on the size of the opening, but at least three on the sides, two at the top);
3. Weld the corners into U-shaped frames, clean the seams;
4. All metal elements primed and painted;
5. Install the frames in the opening, fasten with plates for welding;
6. Fasten the frames in the slopes with anchors (dowel - screws) on the overlays;
7. Plaster slopes;
8. Fasten the box with anchors to the plates;
9. Perform seam sealing.

Strengthening the opening with a frame from the corners is as reliable as a mortgage in a masonry.

Note:

• Blocks of cellular concrete are fragile material, for fastening structures, you can not use impact tools. All anchors - screwed (dowel - screws);
• Before performing work, it is recommended to prime the slopes and edges of the doorway with a reinforcing primer or stick a building mesh to give additional strength;
• If installation is carried out in aerated concrete in the second or third way in a wall with insulation, the additional thickness of the insulation should be taken into account;
• To exclude the formation of "cold bridges" (freezing of metal, formation of ice and condensate), take measures to protect the box from heat. If the frame of the selected door does not have insulation, fill it with mounting foam or inserts from any insulation - foam plastic, mineral or basalt wool.
• Protect metal elements (corners, plates or fittings) in contact with the masonry from corrosion with a special primer or paint for metal.

After the box is assembled, seal all seams. It is best to use a sealant. Slots also need to be removed, mounting foam is excellent for this. When it hardens, remove the excess by carefully cutting off the remaining foam with a knife, and apply mastic to the cuts.

It is not necessary to fix the box using ordinary pins made of reinforcement for this purpose. This method is still suitable for brick buildings, but not from aerated concrete blocks. The fact is that a steel rod, if driven into a block, will crush the structure. Already at the very beginning there will be a small backlash, which will increase during operation. As a result, the box may fall out.

Any of the proposed installation methods, performed in accordance with the recommendations, guarantees you protection from unwanted visits and the safety of property. The work can be done independently, but requires skill and the ability to use a construction tool. You will get the best result from the hands of a professional.

Interior door

Installing an interior door is not as difficult a task as it seems at first glance. True, it requires time, accuracy and skills in working with a construction tool - a drill, a level, a chisel.

Choose

Most often installed in housing two door heights(2.1 and and 2.4 m) and four in width: 0.7 m for toilet, bath and shower; 0.8 m for the kitchen and bedrooms; 0.9 or 1.3 m for the living room and common room.

Before buying, we measure the opening! The size of the opening cannot exceed by more than 5-50 mm the size of the door frame.

If the gap is more than 50 mm, the opening needs to be adjusted with a mounting board.

Factories specializing in carpentry produce doors in sets, which include:

• box
• door leaf
• fittings
• fastener set

Additional elements necessary for framing the opening (platbands, glazing beads) and locking fittings (handles, locks) are purchased separately.

Specialized factories produce sets of doors fully prepared for installation, which facilitates the work and eliminates the need to measure and manually select the sockets for fittings with a chisel, or purchase additional accessories.

Cooking Tools

For a quality installation you need:

• Drill
• Clamp
• Screws, e.g. 80×5
• Hammer
• Hacksaw
• Chisel
• Screwdrivers straight and Phillips
• Spacers and wedges (wood or plastic)
• Right angle square
• Elbow 45 degrees
• Level or plumb
• Roulette
• Pencil
• Tape or masking tape

A clamp, squares and a hacksaw will be needed if we install a door with a universal size box, consisting of separate parts.

If the purchased door is with snap-on platbands, then a drill and a chisel are not required.

We mount

Consider the sequence of mounting a swing door in a partition made of gas silicate blocks.

When laying brick walls, mounting plugs (at least two on each side of the opening) are laid in the slopes of the openings - wooden blocks, to which the box is then attached.

It is impossible to lay corks in walls made of large-sized blocks, and fastening the box to the slopes is carried out with mounting foam or dowel screws. Due to the fragility of gas silicate, it is impossible to use an impact tool.

Attention!

In order not to damage the front surfaces of the door, it is advisable to paste over the box and the edge of the canvas with adhesive tape.

Installation begins with the assembly of the box (if the door is equipped with a box of universal size):

1. The lintel (the upper element of the box) is measured by the width of the door leaf plus 7 mm and the upper edge of the correct jambs, sawed off with a hacksaw at an angle of 45 °;
2. We alternately join the upper and side elements of the box, clamp it with a clamp, drill holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, remove the jamb from the clamp and drill a hole up to 4.5 mm;
3. We connect the jambs and the lintel on the screws;
4. if necessary, add a threshold:
   • saw off along the width of the canvas plus 7 mm;
   • in racks we cut out quarters from the side of the porch;
   • we assemble the box, outline and drill holes for self-tapping screws;
   • remove the threshold, drill a hole up to 4.5 mm;
   • put the threshold in place and tighten with screws.

Before installing the frame, unpack the door leaf and check the compliance with the door frame, check the direction of opening, if necessary, install fittings:

1. we mark on the canvas and the box the place of installation of the hinges, handles and, if necessary, the lock;
2. We mark the contours of the loops on the canvas and the box;
3. we select the recesses with a chisel, fasten the fittings;
4. try on the loops and mark the attachment points in place;
5. drill holes for screws at the fastening points;
6. screw the hinges and install the handles.

We install a door frame in the opening:

1. Check the door opening direction.
2. We insert the prepared spacers into the box. We insert the box into the opening, fixing it with wedges located opposite the spacers.
3. We align the box according to a plumb line or level, knock in wedges. Repeat installation and positioning of the door at least twice.
4. It is enough to fix the box framed with platbands into the partition with mounting foam. After curing, cut off the excess foam with a knife. We install dobors and platbands.

Attention!

If there are no platbands at the door, we fix the dowel in the opening with screws.

If the door is equipped with a threshold and is installed in a room where water leakage is possible (bathroom, shower room, laundry room), the threshold must be protected from moisture: the mounting gap is filled with silicone sealant.

We hang the door leaf. Work is done!

Useful video

Very detailed instructions for installing an interior door:

The methods listed above are good for installing interior and exterior doors. Blocks of aerated concrete will not crumble, and the door frame will be securely fixed in the opening.

The house was built from aerated concrete. During the construction, the armored belt was not mounted. Floor beams 1 and the attic floor are supported by a gas block. Cracks appeared in the partitions and above the window of the main wall. What to do and is it dangerous to leave it like that? Dmitriy

Hello Dmitry!

The appearance of cracks is a sign of uneven deformations of building structures. Let's take a look at the cases in which cracks form in the walls.

1. Uneven deformations of the base of the building. They can manifest themselves in problematic soils due to various kinds of inclusions in the base of the building (construction debris under one of the corners of the building, the manifestation of subsidence properties under the condition of leakage of water-bearing communications, etc.). Another possible reason is the uneven frost heaving of the soil, which especially often affects private houses of an asymmetric shape with basements without insulation and insulation.
2. Insufficient bearing capacity of individual structures, incorrect design solutions, violation of the rules (technology) for the construction of a structure.
3. Washing out the foundation.
4. Insufficient foundation depth (above UPG) with heaving soils.
5. Wrong foundation type selected. Soil surveys have not been carried out. Weak bearing capacity of soils (quicksand, peat).
6. The absence or marriage of waterproofing between the walls and the foundation.
7. If the walls are covered with multiple small cracks - how to drink they are plastered. Moreover, the plaster was made too quickly, before the blocks dried out, and with a material with low vapor permeability.

The result of haste and the use of unsuitable plaster. The damp block was quickly laid and quickly plastered with a mixture with low vapor permeability

Without determining the causes of cracks and on the basis of the amount of information provided, it is not possible to form a list of necessary measures. You should call in a specialist (foreman or design engineer from the design organization) with experience in strengthening structures. Give him as much information as possible, namely:

Ground water level. If you don’t know it, tell us if water appeared in the trenches when pouring the foundations, if there are seasonal floods in the spring, if there is water in the basements of the neighbors (or yours, if any).
1. Compressive strength (in everyday life - strength grade) of aerated concrete blocks, on what composition (mortar) they were laid. The step and dimensions of the floor beams, rafters, from which the lintels are made over the door and window openings, on which the deformed partitions stand (on their foundation or just on the floor).
2. Construction of floors, ceilings and roofs.
3. Report on engineering-geological surveys.
4. It is necessary to examine the efficiency of drainage from the building on site (integrity, angle of inclination and width of the blind area).
5. If the house is plastered, then with what mixture and after what time after the walls were erected.
6. How much time has passed from the acquisition of blocks to the installation of walls. Under what conditions were they stored?

Based on these data and based on the results of the field survey, the specialist must form a list of measures to strengthen the structures. Unfortunately, there is no information about the lintels above the openings. The presence or absence of finishing of the house inside / outside can have a significant impact.

The general principle of strengthening unreinforced walls made of aerated concrete blocks with a reliable foundation and access to wall surfaces is as follows:

Once again, we emphasize that the above list is nothing more than an indicative recommendation. Without a field survey of the building, it is impossible to make a final decision. Moreover, some types of reinforcement work may require the installation of temporary floor supports, etc. It is dangerous to carry out reinforcement work on your own without consulting a specialist who directly examined your home.

If the house stood for quite a long time (at least a year), and only then cracks appeared, and small ones, you can try to limit yourself to installing gypsum beacons on the cracks themselves. In the first month they need to be examined once a week, then once a month for a year. If cracks appear on the beacons, it means that the deformations continue and calling a specialist cannot be avoided.

A cracked beacon is a sign of increasing deformations

Aerated concrete is widely used for the construction of various buildings instead of the usual brick and cinder block. Such a material has many advantages: strength, lightness, excellent heat and sound insulation, large dimensions that speed up the construction process. But there are also some disadvantages. So, in view of the porosity of the material, the installation of the front door in aerated concrete differs from traditional technology.

Preparatory work package

Often, the owners of premises with aerated concrete walls are afraid of the possibility of its destruction due to the porosity of the material structure. It will be easier for intruders to tear out a heavy metal door than to bother opening it. But such a probability is possible only when installing the structure in the traditional way.

Before starting installation, it is important to take care of removing the old door (For information on how to dismantle a PVC window, read the link if this is not a new building, and cleaning the surface of the opening. The blocks themselves also need to be prepared. A common way to process them is to glue the outer surface with a self-adhesive, waterproofing tape But it is better to prime the aerated concrete with a deep penetration strengthening compound, which allows you to reliably protect it from moisture ingress.In addition, the surface of the block itself will become stronger to a depth of 50 mm.

A common problem that you may encounter when installing a door yourself is the mismatch between the size of the door frame and the opening. In almost all new houses, they are made non-standard. But this problem can be fixed.

In the case when it is necessary to reduce the opening, additional laying of the same aerated concrete or other materials (brick, cinder block) is carried out. To expand the installation space, you need a puncher or a grinder with a diamond-coated disc. When adjusting the dimensions of the doorway, it is important to remember that the metal door is installed with a small gap of 20-60 mm.

The main ways to install the front door

When installing entrance doors in aerated concrete walls, there is a possibility of backlash in the holes that are made in the material. During operation, it can increase even more, leading to loosening of the structure. Therefore, the installation of doors by drilling holes with clogging of fittings is not reliable.

Wooden strapping of the opening;

Use of adhesive or expansion anchors;

Fastening to a metal frame.

All these methods can ensure the reliability of the installed door, have a number of advantages and some disadvantages.

The technology of using wooden strapping

This option is suitable for installing massive metal entrance doors, garage swing systems, wing structures, when there are increased shock loads in the areas of fixing the box to the aerated concrete wall and there is a possibility of deformation. To prevent the destruction of porous material, the door frame is installed on wooden modules or embedded beams or on a frame-pipe. This technology allows you to evenly distribute the level of mechanical load around the entire perimeter of the opening.

The intermediate structures themselves can be made of dense plywood, wooden beams, planed boards. The material must be treated with a liquid antiseptic composition and left to dry completely.

Lightweight structures can be installed on solid or threaded overhead panels or beams, previously buried in aerated concrete. They are fastened in the doorway with special glue with additional fixation with bolts for porous materials. If threaded panels are used, the gaps between the individual slats are filled with mounting foam.

The door frame is connected to the wooden trim with self-tapping screws. If the door is very bulky or heavy, you should make a full-fledged wooden frame from a thick beam. It is attached to the opening with adhesive anchors. After the strapping is completed, a door frame is installed on it.

Mounting the door with anchors

This method is considered the most budgetary, but it is used only for narrow and lightweight structures. Mounting dowels that come with the kit are replaced with anchors for aerated concrete. They are adhesive or spacer.

The working end of the expansion anchor is screwed into the wall. At this moment, it is divided into two parts and makes a strut. As a result, the anchor is securely fixed in the porous structure of aerated concrete. If adhesive devices are used, holes are first made in the wall and filled with polymer resin. The hardened filler securely fixes the threaded part of the anchor in the wall.

Installation of the structure on a metal frame

This method allows you to reinforce the opening with a pile frame, which is formed from metal corners, additionally connected by tape jumpers. This installation technology is considered affordable and the most reliable. For metal doors of standard sizes, it will be enough to make a frame from a 35-45 mm corner. For massive structures, it is better to use corners 50x50 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for installing the front door in aerated concrete using a metal frame:

1. The corners themselves are adjusted to the size of the opening from the gas blocks, 2 sets of segments for the inner and outer sides are required. Each of them should include 2 long and 1 short corner.

2. The cut pieces are placed on the edge of the opening and the end parts are welded. The result will be 2 U-shaped arches that fit snugly against the edges of the opening.

3. Finished arches are fixed to the surface of aerated concrete with anchors. To strengthen the structure between themselves, they are additionally pulled together with tape jumpers. For their manufacture, 3 mm sheet metal is used, cut into the desired segments. Jumpers are welded at the attachment points of the door frame. It is not recommended to install only the vertical parts of the arch to save money. The benefit from this will be minimal, and the design will significantly reduce rigidity.

4. Welded jumpers should be fixed with self-tapping screws to ensure maximum reliability. They should be screwed into the aerated concrete wall in such a way that the caps do not coincide with the holes for attaching the door frame.

5. The box is installed in the finished arch. It is important to check the correct entry of the plumb line. After adjustment, the box is fixed with wooden wedges.

6. Using 15 cm self-tapping screws for metal structures, screwed into the aerated concrete surface through the lintels, the door frame is finally fixed in the opening. For particularly massive structures, dowels can be used. Holes are made in aerated concrete, dowels are installed in them, and self-tapping screws are already screwed into them.

7. Upon completion of the installation, all seams should be treated with sealant and the cracks should be blown out with mounting foam.

8. For hardening and complete setting, it is recommended to leave the structure for 6 hours at rest. After that, the excess foam is removed with a clerical knife, and the seams are once again passed with a sealant.

After completing all the work, it is recommended to adjust the door. This will extend the life of the structure. Even slight distortions of the door relative to the box can affect the operation of the canopies and locking mechanisms.

Conclusion

From the foregoing, we can draw a simple conclusion that the installation of the front door in aerated concrete can be done independently, the main thing is to strictly adhere to the specified technologies and take into account the low mechanical strength of such a building material as aerated concrete.

How to install a heavy metal door in an aerated concrete opening can be found in the following video:

If you liked the material, I will be grateful if you recommend it to friends or leave a useful comment.

When a person buys metal doors, it happens that he does not calculate the amount for dismantling the old one and installing a new one. Therefore, it remains to make two decisions: either he will install the front door himself, or call people who will do it. The second is expensive in itself, because you have to lay out a certain amount from the family budget again. It's easier to do it yourself (see).

How to install metal front doors yourself

To install a new door, you must remove the old one. To do this, first separate the door leaf from the frame. It must be removed from the hinges, if the mount was hinged, and set aside. Now remove the box. If the box is metal, then use a grinder to remove the connections between the box and the fixing rods. If wooden blocks were used for fastening, then unscrew the screws from the hidden holes.

Then, the box is cut into two parts and removed. In the event that there is a desire to save it, then it is necessary to carefully pull it out of the doorway with a crowbar and a hammer.

Now the question is whether you will increase the door opening or reduce it. Expanding the doorway is a simple and uncomplicated matter. Using a special tool - a grinder, and a crowbar, destroy the part of the wall necessary to install the entrance iron door. Most often, problems appear in people who themselves install the front door with a decrease in the opening. It is much easier to reduce the opening by 10 centimeters than by 50. In the first case, lay the excess distance with bricks and plaster. In the second case, you will have to make a small frame according to the size of the opening, and seal the remaining part between the wall and the frame with mortar. Attach the frame to the wall.

After the opening is prepared, you can proceed with the installation of the entrance metal door with your own hands.

Step one

Required installation tool:

• hammer;
• anchor bolts;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• plumb;
• crowbar or nail puller.

Installation of steel entrance doors is as follows. At the beginning, unpack the brought door. Together with it there should be anchor bolts with which the box will be attached to the wall. Their size should not exceed 15 cm in length and be less than 10 cm. The diameter of the anchor bolt is 12-15 mm. If you do not find them together with the purchased door, then you need to buy it in any hardware store.

After unpacking, do not remove the protective film! It will save the door from scratches that can be caused during the installation of the front door in Khrushchev.

step two

Now, together with an assistant, install the input box. But first you need to check it for vertical and horizontal. To check, use a level or plumb. After everything is fine with the dimensions and geometry of the box, insert it into the doorway. Place wedges of wood under the box. Now to level the door block.

It is necessary to check with a level that part of the box to which the hinges of the door leaf will be attached. If the doorway, like the walls, is pre-aligned, then it will not be difficult to put it. The box itself will rise as it should.

It is necessary to start attaching the block to the wall from the upper part, where the hinges of the door leaf are located. Drill a hole with a drill and insert the anchor into it. The anchor must be screwed in completely, but not tightened. Then move on to the next step.

Drill a hole in the lower lug and insert the anchor. Do the same as with the top one. Repeat the same steps on the opposite side and the top and bottom.

Do not forget to always check the location of the box with a level to avoid unnecessary problems when you hang the canvas.

Even if your frame will stagger a little - there is nothing to worry about. Then everything will foam up with mounting foam and the door will gain stability and steadfastness.

Step Three

Now move on to installing the door leaf on the hinges. After that, check the door for opening and closing, lock snapping. If you did everything right and leveled the door jamb, then the door will not open or close by itself. But doing this for a person will not be difficult.

However, if the bolts of the lock cling to the frame or the part of the door where the lock is located also catches the door frame, then it is necessary to tighten the door hinges to the desired level.

Step Four - Last

After the door is installed, checked, it should be sealed. Sealing occurs as follows, using mounting foam.

Take a can of mounting foam, shake well. Now fill the remaining openings and gaps between the box and the wall. The only place where mounting foam is not used is the threshold. Fill it with concrete. The fact is that the foam deforms and crumbles over time from constant walking.

Do not use the door after sealing with foam for six hours. This is done so that it is finally fixed in the opening.

One of the methods for installing the door frame has been described above. It's called drowning in the wall. It is usually made in those houses where the walls are more than 40 cm thick. Otherwise, thieves can easily pull it out of the wall.

Therefore, on such walls, the box is fixed with the help of plates, which are located on the side racks. The plates are connected to the wall using steel rods or anchor bolts.

Strengthening the doorway is best done from a channel or metal corners. This will strengthen and give additional protection for the installation of an iron door, if before that there was a wooden one in your house or apartment. This approach will protect the opening from sagging and destruction of the materials in this place from which the house is made.

Below is a diagram of the installation of metal doors.

After installing the door and sealing, the foam that has come out must be carefully removed on a par with the wall, and the opening must be plastered.

From the inside, if desired, cashers can be installed. But, if steel entrance doors were installed, which have a massive door frame, then cashiers are not required. Since the design itself suggests a beautiful design.

Installing a door in aerated concrete

By itself, aerated concrete is a very fragile material. Therefore, it is difficult to install a street door.

If the front door is smaller than the doorway, then it is necessary to cut the blocks with a special saw to the desired size.

Fastening the door frame to aerated concrete occurs in three ways. In the first case, you should already have metal mortgages in the walls, to which the opening will be attached. At a height of 2.1 meters, three mortgages are calculated, the whiskers of which are recessed into the masonry seam. The box is attached with anchor bolts to the mortgages.

The dimensions of the mortgages are 100x75x8 mm. Mustaches are made of rebar with a diameter of 10 mm.

It happens that during the construction of a house they forget about mortgages. Then the strengthening of the opening made of wood will come to the rescue. In order to put the front door in aerated concrete without mortgages, you need a U-shaped strapping of boards. The width of the latter should be equal to the thickness of the wall. Dimensions of boards or timber 40 mm. They are connected to each other with a board. The box is attached to the slopes with anchors. And to add beauty, cut out a strobe where the beam will be inserted. The box is attached to the harness with anchors.

Wooden strapping is an easy and cheap way to strengthen the opening, but the most unreliable.

Wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic. Use only oak or larch.

Installation of entrance doors with wooden trim

Performing the installation of external doors in a private house made of aerated concrete with wooden trim:

• after the manufacture of the strapping and installation, the box is inserted into the formed reinforced opening and fastened with anchors;
• a metal front door is hung and adjusted;
• gaps are sealed with mounting foam.

The last way to install a door in aerated concrete, reliable and of high quality, is to reinforce the opening with a metal frame. The design, which is made of metal for this method, repeats the wooden reinforcement. Only instead of wood, a corner with dimensions of 100x75x8 mm is used. Two sets are made: one is front, the other is internal.

The manufactured frame frames the corners of the walls of cellular concrete and is welded together with jumpers 5 cm wide and 3 mm thick. Fasten the plates at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Then plaster the slopes and install the entrance box for the door. It is anchored to the frame. Then hang the door on the hinges.

Due to the fragility of the material - do not drive in the screws, but screw them in. Strengthen the walls next to the frame with reinforced mesh. Protect metal from corrosion with a primer. Foam the joints with mounting foam and cover with mastic.

Do not use pins to connect the frame to the wall. Backlash is formed and the hole with the pin will increase with use. As a result, the frame may fall out.

Installation of the front door in a brick house

Replacing the front door in a brick house requires a special approach. First, you need to consider its design. It should not contrast and stand out sharply from the general background. Secondly, it must be durable, soundproof and reliable in order to protect the owner not only from burglars, but also from street noises. Thirdly, the door is divided according to the elements of the entrance groups.

• swing;
• sliding.

Installing a swing door is the same as installing a metal door to an apartment. Sliding frame of two guide rails at the top and bottom. Doors can open both in different directions, and drive off only in one direction.

So we looked at various examples of replacing the front door in houses made of concrete and brick. Now let's look at how the iron door is installed in a wooden house.

Do-it-yourself door installation in a wooden house

Entrance doors are mounted only after six months or more have passed after the walls have been erected. When the house gives a major shrinkage.

The installation of a metal door in a log house occurs only after strengthening the opening with a casing bar. For this we need:

• milling cutter;
• laser level;
• bar;
• saw;
• self-tapping screws.

Cut a hole in the wall of wood for mounting the door frame. Make a groove 50x50 mm at the end with a milling cutter. Then hammer a bar of the same section into it. If the work is done in a house with shrinkage, then a beam with a length of 2 cm less than the length of the groove is used.

If the house is built from rounded timber, then hem a board up to 5 cm thick. Its width is equal to the thickness of the wall. Connect it to the wall with screws or nails. Sew the board so that the opening does not lead, since the twisting and bending forces in such a house are large.

When installing a metal door in a wooden house, you can not make the top bar of the pigtail.

Since the metal box is strong and powerful enough to withstand the pressure of the timber. Therefore, during installation, leave a gap of 10 cm at the top for shrinkage. Make the side carriages of the pigtails the same height as the door itself.

Installation of a metal door in a frame house

To install an iron door in a frame house, it is necessary to strengthen the opening.

You will need tools:

• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• level;
• roulette.

Make a casing box from a bar. Place the jambs on four sides and fix in the frame. With the help of an assistant, insert the front door frame into the opening, while the door should be open. Place wedges prepared in advance from a wooden block under the threshold. Using a level, align the position of the box relative to the floor and walls of the frame.

If there are any deviations, then it is necessary to knock out wooden wedges or insert additional ones. Close the canvas and open. Try to close and open the lock dog. If everything is fine and nothing catches the door, then proceed to fix the box to the walls.

Drill holes for anchor bolts through. Screw in the bolts and again check the door for opening and closing.

If the whole door does not give any deviations, then fix the lintel and the threshold part with anchor bolts.

After fixing all sides, check the door again. And only after all the checks, screw the bolts all the way into the base of the frame.

Then fill the gaps and gaps between the box and the frame with mounting foam. Do this from floor to ceiling. Fill the seam only 60%. Wait until the foam hardens.

Fill the gaps between the threshold and the box with sealant. Again check the operation of the door leaf for opening and closing. Close the gaps with foam with a cashier.

All door installation work must be carried out by two people. One will not be able to cope with powerful metal doors.

Door blocks weigh more than fifty kilograms and therefore it is dangerous to work alone! Installation of doors from is carried out in the same way as the installation of an iron door.

It is preferable to use metal doors from trusted companies. Cloths have a high coefficient of resistance to heat transfer, are insulated with special materials. From the outside, the door is covered with a waterproofing film, and from the inside - with a vapor barrier film.

Installation of the front door in a frame house - video

New types of cellular concrete: gas and foam concrete are replacing the usual cinder block and brick. These materials have many advantages, but there are also disadvantages. The instruction for the installation of doors differs from the traditional one, since cellular concrete is porous.

Preparation

When ordering windows or doors, remember that the dimensions of the structure must be 1 centimeter less than the opening. Before installing the front door, the surface of aerated concrete must be carefully prepared. Builders recommend gluing the outer side of the material with waterproofing tape. But since aerated concrete belongs to hygroscopic materials, it can pass moisture at the joints. For this reason, it is more expedient to impregnate the blocks with a special primer that penetrates deep into the pores. This will give good waterproofing and strengthen the surface of the blocks.

Installation technology

Do not be afraid to install input structures yourself. Of course, additional expenses will be required for strengthening, but the price of materials is lower than the payment for the work of the master.

The technology of fastening the door to aerated concrete differs from other options. The difference is in the specific characteristics of the material from which the house is built. Aerated concrete is porous, brittle and light.

Metal doors of standard dimensions in weight reach 100 kg. Due to this difference, the block installed by the traditional method may not be kept in the doorway and fall out of it. For this reason, builders recommend installing narrow metal doors in an aerated concrete house, and installing them using additional structures or special fasteners.

How to install doors

First you need to prepare a tool that is not highly specialized or professional.

1. Preparation. The purchased door structure is unpacked, the completeness is carefully considered. It is mandatory to check the operability of the lock and that the hinges included in the kit can be adjusted.

Important! If the door was without a protective film, then you will have to protect it yourself with plastic wrap, and paste over the box with masking tape.

Then proceed to the preparation of the place where the product will be attached. If there are any objects nearby, they must also be protected. In addition, decide on the side into which the doors will open and maintain the thickness of the gap.

1. Dismantling. When replacing input structures in a country or private house, this process is relevant. But if the house is new, then this step is skipped. If the canvas is hung on hinges that do not disassemble, then it is removed by lifting it up. The door is easy to remove using this method. Metal doors are heavy, so you can dismantle them with a crowbar. If the loops are collapsible, they are untwisted with a screwdriver. When dismantling a wooden door, it is necessary to unscrew the anchors, and put the opening in order.

1. Preparing the doorway. Before installing the front door, please note that metal structures are not subject to cutting. The door leaf has standard dimensions and, of course, it cannot be cut so as not to violate the integrity and appearance. Therefore, before mounting the door, it is necessary to carefully measure the parameters of the opening. It is practical to use doors with a width of at least 86 cm, since it is more convenient to carry furniture or household appliances through them. Sometimes you have to reduce the opening in order to put a metal frame. The disadvantage of this method is the occurrence of cold bridges. But there is a way out - to equip the slopes with insulation. To expand the opening, part of the wall is removed with a grinder.

Attention! To make the opening wider, do not use impact methods so as not to disturb the supporting structure of the building.

The metal front door is heavy, because the optimal thickness of the metal is 2 or 3 mm. Fragile walls made of hollow blocks may not withstand such a weight. In this case, a monolithic portal is cast and connected with reinforcement to the wall. Then a door frame is installed in it.

It is not recommended to install a steel door into a wall with a thickness of less than 15 centimeters. If so, consider making the wall thicker. The load on the floor also increases, so check its strength. If brick or timber was used for the old structure, they are dismantled, and the place is cleaned and poured with concrete.

Installation method of the product in aerated concrete

Doors to buildings from gas blocks are installed in three ways:

• on special anchors: chemical or spacer;
• on a welded metal frame;
• on the strapping of the opening made of wood.

Each of these options has its positive and negative characteristics.

The first method is anchoring. This is an inexpensive and simple method, which is used only in the case of mounting narrow or lightweight structures that do not experience heavy loads during operation. Using this method, the dowels that come with the kit are replaced with anchors designed for cellular concrete, expansion or adhesive.

When the working end of the anchor hits the wall, it splits into two parts, due to which the bolt is fixed in the gas block. If adhesive anchors are used, holes are pre-drilled under them and filled with polymer resin. Such a composite holds the threaded section of the anchor in the wall. To reduce the absorbency of aerated concrete, its structure is compacted with a primer treatment that penetrates deep into the pores of the material.

The second method is fixation on the frame. To begin with, the doorway is reinforced using steel corners, which are reinforced with metal lintels. It turns out a double welded frame. It remains to establish the structure.

The third method is fixing to a wooden harness. If it is planned to install a massive steel door, at the places where the box is attached to the wall, the aerated concrete runs the risk of collapsing due to deformation and shock loads. To prevent the cellular material from crumbling under the bolt heads, the door frame is mounted on wood panels, strapping frames or on beams, which help to evenly distribute the load across the opening. All these intermediate structures are made of wood or thick plywood. Before use, the wood is treated with special antiseptics, and then dried.

Lightweight door structures can be mounted on beams that are buried in the aerated concrete itself, or on panels cut to the thickness of the wall and laid in the doorway. They are fastened with glue, and then fastened with bolts, which are designed specifically for aerated concrete.

If installation is carried out on pieces of boards, the gaps formed between the planks are filled with mounting foam (hard). A metal box is attached to this wooden frame with self-tapping screws.

Bulky door products are mounted on a strapping frame, which is made of thick bars. They are attached to the walls of the opening with special epoxy-based adhesive anchors.

Door installation

Installing heavy metal entrance doors directly into aerated concrete is a responsible process. Do not forget to replace the dowels included in the kit with special anchors, or buy a metal corner with a size of 35 or 50 mm. This parameter depends on the size and weight of the installed door. The corners are welded and applied on both sides of the opening (internal and external). Between themselves, they are fastened with jumpers, which are best cut out of metal, at least 50 mm wide and 3 mm thick. The frame is attached to the jumpers, but to be sure, you can add a few self-tapping screws 120 mm long. The loot is set according to the level and fixed with wedges.

All cracks are filled with foam. Then the door structure is installed on the welded frame.

What fasteners to use for aerated concrete and foam concrete, the video will tell:

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