Do you need ebbs for the basement of the foundation. How to properly fix the ebbs on the basement of the building

The foundation is the basis of any structure and therefore it must be protected as much as possible from the negative effects of precipitation, which can cause its premature destruction. The most effective and inexpensive way of protection is the installation of ebbs. Outwardly, they are single-pitched profile structures that are installed around the perimeter of the entire house.

Simple yet robust design for plinth protection

The basement ebb is a profile strip, which is installed at a certain angle of inclination to the top edge of the basement and is overlapped or cut into the outer wall of the building. The edges of the slope are usually bent in a special way to give an aesthetic appearance to the structure, as well as to form a stiffener, which effectively counteracts various mechanical influences.

Attention! Drains are installed on the plinth wooden house into a special groove in the outer wall in order to ensure a tight connection. This fact must be taken into account when calculating the width of the slope.

The right choice of drip material - ensuring the durability of the plinth

To ensure the required level of protection of the building foundation, it is important to choose the right material from which the protective structure is made. This is due to the difference in strength and performance characteristics, which are reflected in their cost. Ebbs for the foundation are made from the following materials:

1. Metal outflow with polymer coating for the plinth. They are distinguished by high strength and excellent decorative properties. They can be easily matched to any design of the facade of the building and be sure that they will improve its aesthetic perception due to rich colors and rich colors.
2. Steel sills for the base of the foundation with a galvanized coating. Similar in strength properties to the previous version, they have maximum protection against corrosion, but are inferior in decorative properties.
3. Plastic ebbs for the foundation have a maximum service life, as they are able to endure any climatic changes with the preservation of all their properties. However, they are significantly inferior in strength to metal structures. It is profitable to buy ebbs of this type, since their cost is minimal compared to the rest.
4. Copper sills on the foundation have a chic and expensive appearance that fits perfectly into the design of the facade of an elite country house. In terms of durability, it is in no way inferior to plastic structures, but at the same time they significantly exceed them in terms of strength characteristics. Among the disadvantages are the high cost and complexity of installation.

The ebb for the plinth must necessarily exceed the protrusion of the plinth from the wall of the building by at least 50 mm in width. Only in this case, the foundation will be maximally protected from precipitation. The length of the strips should be selected in such a way that there is a minimum number of butt joints along the length of the wall.

• Why are tides needed?
• Installation of ebbs on the plinth
• Useful tips when installing ebbs

Why are tides needed?

If protective elements for the house are not provided in advance, very soon atmospheric precipitation will make its own adjustments to its appearance. Moisture penetrates into the smallest cracks of the structure, violates their integrity and strength, and when frozen, it can lead to the formation of cracks. In this case, the protruding parts of the structure are especially affected: window openings, plinths, stone fences.

Depending on the type of plinth, the width of the ebb can vary from 50 to 400 mm.

The best protection against negative weather factors are thorough waterproofing and the obligatory use of low tides.

Installing a low tide on the base of the foundation is the completion of the exterior decoration of the house.

As a rule, the thickness of the plinth is higher than the thickness of the walls, this is due to the increased load on it.

Ebbs are made from various materials. There are ceramic, concrete, plastic, metal. The cost of mounting them is small, but you can install them yourself, since this procedure is quite simple and does not require any special knowledge and skills.

For installation, it is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

Types of socles: protruding, in one plane and sinking.

• low tides;
• tracer chalk;
• mounting foam;
• putty or sealant;
• hacksaw or scissors for metal;
• a hammer;
• pliers;
• rubber or wooden mallet;
• water level;
• drill or puncher (for brick walls);
• chopping cord;
• dowels;
• brackets.

The modern construction market offers ebbs of various colors. Choosing the right color can enhance the look of your home's facade. The most affordable products are made of copper or galvanized steel, the plastic version is a bit more expensive.

When buying ebbs, special attention should be paid to their size, especially if the facade of the house is made of tiles or natural stone, because due to constant exposure to moisture, these materials may become unusable and fall off.

The ebbs have a mounting flange, which is designed to be attached to the wall, a shelf, which is installed at an angle for better water flow, as well as a frontal limb, which directs the flowing water down. Shelf sizes are different: from 50 to 400 mm.

You can not buy ebbs, but make them yourself, because there is nothing difficult in this. Sheets from which ebbs are made are cut into strips of the required length. After that, the cut strip is placed on the corner and, by tapping on it with a hammer, is bent in the right direction. The material is bent from 2 sides: on the side that will be adjacent to the wall, the bend should be directed upwards and be small, and on the opposite side it should be bent down.

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Installation of ebbs on the plinth

Before installation, it is necessary to carefully inspect the walls of the house for cracks, chips and other defects. Places where such flaws are found must be sealed with sealant or putty. If work is planned to insulate the foundation, then they should be carried out before installing ebbs.

Mounting order:

1. Fixing of ebbs is carried out after facing the plinth before facing the walls. Before mounting, check the top line for horizontality using a level. With large distortions, it is desirable to level them with a sand-cement mortar, in addition, for a better fit of the ebb, slopes must be made.
2. To do this, with the help of a dowel and a self-tapping screw, a cord is fixed on one of the corners of the selected wall, leveled and fixed on the other corner of the wall. Cement mortar is prepared from 3 parts of sand and 1 part of cement with the addition of water. The solution should not drain from the trowel. With a trowel on a cord, slopes are performed at an angle of at least 15 °. The solution is kept for several days to set the cement and evaporate excess moisture.
3. The ebbs are attached either directly to the wall or to the guides, to which the facade cladding will be attached in the future, in this case, before attaching the ebbs, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work and install the guides.
4. For better water drainage, it is necessary that the ebbs protrude beyond the edge of the base by at least 5 cm - this must be taken into account when choosing. When choosing a shade, it is advisable to focus on color scheme in which the entire building is framed. Usually, products are chosen to match the wall cladding or basement, but sometimes metal or contrasting elements give the building a special charm.
5. The ebbs are attached to the wall with dowel-nails, and to the guides with self-tapping screws. The overlap of one plank on another should be at least 3 cm, while it is desirable to coat the place of overlap with a frost-resistant sealant. You can also seal the joints of the wall and low tide.
6. The inner and outer corners are cut from a piece of the molding strip and fastened in the usual way, while all joints must be coated with silicone sealant.
7. Wide ebbs are additionally attached to the base with brackets, otherwise they will “walk” from the wind.

At self installation ebb, it is important to accurately measure the depth and width of the foundation so that the ebb in the future fulfills its main function as much as possible -. When mounting ebbs around the entire perimeter of the building, it is necessary to maintain the specified slope and technologically correctly tighten the screws.

Properly installed ebbs perfectly protect the plinth from water ingress and extend the life of the foundation. In addition, they also prevent the smearing of decorative plaster and paint, so ebbs are a must for a painted basement.

Properly selected and installed ebbs for the basement of the foundation will reliably protect the foundation of the structure from moisture, ensuring its removal. If the liquid is not removed from the base of the house, it will become a favorable environment for the development of pathogenic microflora, there will be a danger of washing out of the binding components from the mortar, which inevitably leads to a decrease in the reliability and durability of the structure.

The freezing of the material that has absorbed water is also dangerous - cracks form, intensive destruction occurs.

The ebb for the foundation has a fairly simple design: the main plane is supplemented with two bends - one for a snug fit to the basement plane, the second to give direction to the drained water flow. With the exception of minor nuances, the design of all types of products is the same.

Ebb for the foundation can have a different width. As a rule, a narrower outlet (from 50 mm) is installed on houses with a so-called overhanging plinth, the perimeter of which is slightly larger than that of the foundation. Wide drains (up to 400 mm) are required when the vertical outer surfaces of the base and foundation lie in the same plane.

The issue of product selection is reduced to assessing the performance of the material.

Material	Advantages	Flaws	Approximate price, r / p.m.
Steel with galvanization	ease of installation, impact resistance	mediocre aesthetics Significant reduction in durability if the coating is damaged.	100
Color coated steel	longer (in comparison with galvanized ebbs) service life, chemical resistance, Possibility to choose a color to match or a contrasting color of the facade, Immunity to UV rays	vulnerability of the coating to mechanical impacts	110
Plastic	durability, aesthetics, Large selection of colors	a significant decrease in performance, brittleness and brittleness with decreasing temperature	70
Aluminum	lightweight and durable structures, the aesthetics of which are enhanced by the application of a polymer	mediocre appearance without polymer, Possibility of denting on impact	155-170
Copper	gutters with impeccable performance that can last 100-200 years.	relative disadvantage - exactingness of color to the color and texture of the facade, A significant problem is the very high cost	from classical copper - 950, From oxidized - 1700, From patinated - 2450
Stone	high-strength, aesthetic, chemical resistant, Immune to mechanical damage	laborious installation by hand, The complexity of forming a continuous coating	Large price range depending on the material: Artificial stone - from 300, Marble, granite - from 2500
Clinker	the possibility of a large selection of beautiful models, Relatively light weight High strength	the need for certain skills for self-assembly	From 200

For a wooden house, steel or aluminum panels are optimal.

Plastic is more often used in the presence of siding sheathing.

Stone, clinker, copper - for a house made of bricks or blocks, a plinth with natural or artificial stone trim.

Self-manufacturing

It is most often impractical to make ebbs on the foundation for wooden or stone houses with your own hands. You can use only galvanized steel or aluminum. Manual cutting of metal products with polymers damages the coating. The outlet loses its corrosion resistance.

At home, it is difficult to achieve the geometric accuracy of products.

Installation of ebbs

Ebb on the foundation can also be installed during completed construction (for example, when buying a finished house), but it is best to start installation after the insulation and finishing of the foundation (during construction or major repairs).

Tools required:

• hammer (rubber mallet for materials sensitive to mechanical damage),
• perforator (for timber, log walls - drill),
• scissors for metal (if a plastic or galvanized metal outlet is selected),
• Master OK,
• level,
• chopping cord.

Materials:

• mortar (mounting foam is allowed, but such a withdrawal will be less durable),
• frost resistant sealant
• mounting brackets (sometimes replaced with boards, foam panels, etc.) and hardware for fixing wide ebbs without rattling.

Sequencing

1. Inspection of the vertical surface of the base and elimination of shortcomings - covering up cracks and potholes, leveling curvature.
2. Construction of slopes from concrete mortar with a slope of 15 °, time delay (several days) for strength gain.
3. Installation of guides and do-it-yourself marking for drilling holes.
4. The outlet is fixed with self-tapping screws (on rails) or dowel-nails (directly on the wall) with an overlap of 30 mm.
5. Sealing the joints with sealant so that they do not let water through.
6. Installation of prefabricated or cut-out corners from linear panels with thorough lubrication with sealant.
7. Installation of brackets or other supporting devices for wide drainage systems so that in strong winds they do not rattle, knock, or deform.

• The maximum load acts on the drains at the corner joints, so these parts must be securely fixed and carefully sealed.
• To level the base with their own hands, they use a cement-sand mixture (1: 3), to which so much water is added so that the composition becomes plastic, but does not drain from the trowel.
• The ebb for the foundation in width is selected so that the installed structure protrudes 50 mm beyond the basement plane, this will ensure that water is drained to the required distance.
• Using a rubberized hammer or mallet will prevent the formation of dents on metal products, chips of the polymer coating.
• When installing slopes, the uniformity of the slope around the entire perimeter is important.

foundation drainage

AT without fail perform on flooded soils and at a high location ground water(where the need to drain excess liquid in a timely manner is especially important), but it is optimal to make sure and create a complete system at the stage of building construction. If it later turns out that natural drainage is not effective and drainage is still necessary, its installation for a fully built at home will be more labor-intensive and require greater financial costs.

Sequence of work

1. Do-it-yourself drainage trench is created with a small indentation (up to 1.5 m) or close to the concrete surface of the foundation (optimally, work will be done before backfilling the axillary cavities). Requirements for the geometry of the trench: slope towards water intake points 1-1.5%, the bottom is 20-40 cm below the foundation sole of the house.
2. The trench is lined with geotextile or other filtering (permeable to water, but retaining silt and sand) film, so that its upper edge is higher than the hydraulic lock.
3. A drainage pipe with holes is laid in the trench, which ensures the collection and drainage of water. The pipe should lead the liquid to a pit or drainage well.
4. Backfilling of the trench is carried out using a permeable material or mixture ( possible options- gravel, sand, gravel). The presence of clay reduces the permeability of the backfill.
5. The hydraulic lock device is a surface backfilling of a trench with soil with low water permeability (for example, clay) after the horizontal surface is lined with geotextiles. To increase the density of the waterproof backfill, it is rammed. This hydraulic lock prevents overfilling. drainage system during heavy rainfall.
6. The blind area of ​​the house is mounted on top of the hydraulic lock and completely covers the trench with the obligatory protrusion of the edge of the blind area beyond the drainage structure.

A high-quality ebb for the foundation with a drainage system will protect the base of the house from water.

How to make ebbs for the foundation base updated: February 10, 2017 by: zoomfund

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About protecting the base with ebbs

Each ledge on the vertical surface of the wall of the house is a collection of moisture, snow and dust. The basement of the house, as a rule, is wider than the wall, so the protrusion of the basement is a common thing. If the protruding part of the base is not protected, then the weather conditions will certainly create the beginnings of destruction, and gradually these destructive phenomena will damage the foundation. In order to prevent such phenomena, a special design is used - a low tide for the base.

If the tide is not made, then time, with the help of weather conditions, will not only correct the appearance of the house for the worse, but also significantly weaken the entire foundation of the building.

There are ebbs of different designs using a variety of materials. They are concrete, ceramic, plastic and metal.

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Features of various materials for ebbs

In the manufacture of concrete sills for the base, materials with higher requirements are used. So, crushed stone is used as a filler. The sand must be well washed, plasticizers must be used: ecopyrene, relamix or paste to give the concrete a gloss and water-repellent properties. Cement must be frost-resistant brand M450. The color scheme of such a reflux is gray, but the required color can also be provided during the manufacturing process. You can paint the concrete tide with facade enamel. The main disadvantage of a concrete tide is its massiveness and the fact that the order of its installation must be laid down in the project.

Clinker bricks are used for ceramic casting of the basement. It tolerates significant temperature changes and heavy rainfall. Resistance to mechanical damage and to all external influences characterize it as an excellent material for the ebb device. The disadvantage is the high price and the fact that laying such a plinth protection requires high qualifications. The installation of ceramic flashings must be provided for at the design stage.

The ebbs on the basement also carry an aesthetic component in the design of the building. You can purchase ready-made parts for ebbs. They are available in aluminium, copper, stainless steel, galvanized steel or plastic. Aluminum ebbs are more expensive, but they are highly resistant to aggressive environments. They have less weight, but this does not reduce strength. The advantage over steel is also in resistance to fading from sunlight.

When decorating the facade of a house with siding or a profiled sheet, it is convenient to use plastic elements of ebbs. With their help, you can perfectly match the color, you can order non-standard shapes. The ebb on the plastic base is quite durable and absolutely waterproof. Temperature fluctuations and mechanical influences are excellently maintained.

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How are the tides attached to the plinth?

It is necessary to fix the ebbs after finishing the basement, before starting to finish the wall. For work, you must have a stock of tools and materials:

• pliers;
• building level;
• a hammer;
• mallet;
• Master OK;
• hacksaw for metal;
• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• screws with dowels;
• building cord;
• sheets of metal or finished ebbs;
• cement;
• sand;
• frost resistant sealant.

Before installation, check the horizontal position. In the presence of deviations and distortions, it is necessary to level with a cement-sand mortar. For a normal fit, it is better to make the surface for installing the ebb in the form of a slope. A cord installed horizontally is fixed at the corners of the wall. A slope is made along the cord with the help of a trowel. The sloping mortar is prepared from one part of cement and three parts of sand. Water is added so much that the finished solution does not drain from the trowel. To evaporate moisture and set the solution, exposure is made for several days. The ebb bar is attached directly to the wall or to the guides installed for finishing the wall.

The color of the molding strip is matched to the tone of the main wall finish or in contrast to this tone. Contrasting or metallic finishes emphasize the severity of the overall look of the building. The plank is attached to the rails with self-tapping screws, and the dowel-nails to the wall. The ebb usually consists of two parts: the starting bar and the ebb itself. If the surface of the plank is wide, then an additional fastening to the base is made. This installation will keep the plate from the effects of wind. The overlap of the starting bar is sealed with a frost-resistant sealant. If the metal tide is covered with plastic, then it must not be hit with a hammer in order to avoid chipping off part of the coating. Ebb should not be installed before the completion of the main construction. They can be damaged during other work: falling objects, tools, bricks.

When installing the tide on wooden wall you can make a cut in the wall with a grinder to fix the upper part of the structure in the resulting gap. The resulting joint should be sealed with a sealant. If a void is obtained under the ebb bar, then a board must be placed under the bar. If everything is done carefully, then the waterproofing of the foundation will improve significantly. Without a low tide installed on the plinth, the building looks careless and unfinished.

Socle ebbs are used to protect protruding areas on the facade of the building. One of these areas is the basement of the building. Basically, the facade plinth is located outside the common plane of the facade and the cladding is mounted on adhesive bases. The installed basement tide covers the open end areas, protecting the base from destruction by moisture. Also, the basement drain allows you to divert water flows beyond the edge of the cladding, which allows you to keep the walls clean.

The configuration of the basement ebb is determined individually, based on the parameters of your building bases, types of cladding, etc. The color of the products is given by applying powder paint or standard polymer coating according to.

PRICES FOR GROUND DRAIN

The cost of plums is mainly calculated individually, based on the design and materials used. The table below shows the cost of products made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, painted in standard and non-standard colors (powder coating).

Shelf width, mm	Unit rev.	Standard RAL colors	Other RAL colors (powder coated)
50	running meters	50 rub.	68 rub.
100	running meters	75 rub.	102 rub.
150	running meters	100 rub.	136 rub.
200	running meters	125 rub.	170 rub.
250	running meters	150 rub.	204 rub.
300	running meters	175 rub.	238 rub.
350	running meters	200 rub.	272 rub.
400	running meters	225 rub.	306 rub.
450	running meters	250 rub.	340 rub.
500	running meters	275 rub.	374 rub.
550	running meters	300 rub.	408 rub.
600	running meters	325 rub.	442 rub.
650	running meters	350 rub.	476 rub.
700	running meters	375 rub.	510 rub.
750	running meters	400 rub.	544 rub.
800	running meters	425 rub.	578 rub.
850	running meters	450 rub.	612 rub.
900	running meters	475 rub.	646 rub.
950	running meters	500 rub.	680 rub.
1000	running meters	525 rub.	714 rubles

Prices include VAT 18%

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• Short terms of production, attractive prices, the highest quality of end products.
• Our experts will advise you on all issues of interest, help with the preparation of individual drawings of products specifically for your object.
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