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Threads for jeans. How to choose the right sewing machine needles

Threads for jeans. How to choose the right sewing machine needles

When sewing jeans and other clothes from denim, different threads for jeans are used, including cotton threads, polyester threads, reinforced threads. New developments are now replacing the old ones, but from time to time their victories are short-lived, and again humanity turns to the old, tried and tested in the distant past, for help. Sewing threads are no exception. Let's take a look at the main types of threads: 100% cotton, 100% polyester, and threads that can be called mixed or combined, made up of a polyester cotton outer and base layer. Let's compare their good and bad sides.

Cotton yarn actually starts in the same place as history. The first traces of cotton thread date back to about 7000 years ago. In the first half of the 30s of the eighteenth century, the time of industrial machine production of cotton threads begins. Since that time, cotton sewing threads have become one of the main products needed in order to. Thanks to natural fibers, cotton thread has a beautiful ability to form sewing stitches without gaps, in addition, when the needle is heated (in high-speed cars), since the cotton thread does not respond to an increase in temperature, and also on poorly adjusted cars, the quality level of the line is fully maintained acceptable. Also, cotton thread, when wet, only increases its own strength. Most 100% cotton threads go through a mercerization process, i.e. treatment in a solution of caustic soda. This makes the fibers more uniform, easy to dye, and enhances the sheen and increases the strength and resilience of the threads. But it also has its own shortcomings. Although the thread becomes stronger under the action of the liquid, it shrinks and molds. Cotton threads are inferior in strength to polyester and poly-cotton threads.

POLYESTER THREADS 100%

Polyester fibers were invented by the English chemists Winfeld and Dixon in the first half of the 40s of the twentieth century, but the actual licensed production, due to the complexity production process was not started until 1955. The essence of the process lies in the fact that during the sublimation of oil, a by-product hydrocarbon compound, xylene, appears. Glycol and nitric acid are added to xylene, the liquid is heated and condensed in an autoclave - polyester is acquired, which is then cooled, cut into chips. They create a "harness" of 170,000 threads, which is twisted to a contraction of 10-20 times and, at one moment, stretched to the initial debt. As a result, polyester threads have a very high elasticity and high strength. In addition, polyester threads are more resistant to abrasion, mildew and sunlight than cotton threads. The disadvantage is that polyester threads are thicker, more prone to breakage and melt at high temperatures.

COMBINED THREADS Or REINFORCED THREADS: POLYESTER COTTON SHELL and BASE

At a time when polyester thread was becoming more and more popular, combined threads appeared, which contained a polyester thread in their own base, and a cotton braid on top. Thanks to this combination, sewing threads with the best features of both materials were taken. The cotton wrap gives the string true heat resistance and a cottony feel, while the 100% polyester core gives the thread strength, resistance and stretch to abrasion. Combined threads, which are also called reinforced threads, are becoming more and more popular among denim manufacturers. In the territory former USSR the most suitable for sewing clothes from denim are reinforced threads 65LH and reinforced threads 65LL. They differ from each other in that LH has a cotton braid on top of the lavsan core, and polyester braid for LL.

Micron polyester sewing thread
Suitable imported threads for jeans: Amann sewing threads
Sewing threads from Gutermann

And, of course, Coats, which is the main manufacturer of sewing threads in the world, since every fifth pair of jeans is sewn with this particular thread. Highlight denim threads such as Dual Duty, Dual Duty Supercotton and Epic are highly recommended. Dual Duty Supercotton is a high quality reinforced thread specifically designed for sewing cotton items that will be dyed in the future. Only cotton threads are suitable for this purpose, but they have a sequence of the shortcomings described above. Dual Duty Supercotton - hybrid sewing threads that combine best features cotton and polyester. They have a high-strength polyester fiber core, which gives them elasticity and high strength, and a special cotton braid on top, which perfectly supplies paint absorption. "Coats Epic" is a high-tech reinforced thread that combines the strength of a polyester core and the aesthetics of a polyester braid. Ideal for delicate garments as well as denim and workwear, they provide high performance in the most demanding sewing operations.

When sewing jeans and other denim clothing, various threads for jeans are used, including cotton threads, polyester threads, and reinforced threads. New technologies in modern world they push out the old ones, but sometimes their victories are short-lived, and again humanity turns to the old, tried and tested for help. Sewing threads are no exception. Let's look at the main types of thread: 100% cotton, 100% polyester, and threads that can be called mixed or combined, consisting of a polyester base and a cotton outer layer. Let's compare their positive and negative sides.

Cotton sewing thread

Cotton yarn originates almost in the same place as the history of mankind. The first traces of cotton thread date back to about 7,000 years ago. In 1730, the time of industrial machine production of cotton threads begins. Since then, cotton sewing thread has become one of the main products needed for making clothes. Due to natural fibers, cotton thread has an excellent ability to form sewing stitches without gaps, even when the needle is heated (in high-speed machines), since cotton thread does not react to temperature increase, and even on poorly adjusted machines, the stitch quality remains quite acceptable. In addition, the cotton thread only increases its strength when wet. Most 100% cotton threads go through the mercerization process, i. treatment in a solution of caustic soda. This makes the fibers more uniform, easy to dye, and enhances the sheen and improves the resilience and strength of the threads.

However, it also has its drawbacks. Although the thread becomes stronger under the influence of moisture, it shrinks and is exposed to mold. Cotton threads are inferior in strength to polyester and poly-cotton threads.

Polyester fibers were invented by British chemists Winfeld and Dixon in 1941, but actual licensed production, due to the complexity of the manufacturing process, was not started until 1955. The essence of the process is that during the sublimation of oil, a by-product hydrocarbon compound, xylene, appears. Nitric acid and glycol are added to xylene, the liquid is heated and condensed in an autoclave - polyester is obtained, which is then cooled, cut into chips. They create a "tow" of 170,000 threads, which is twisted to a contraction of 10-20 times and, at the same time, stretched to the initial length. As a result, polyester threads have very high strength and great elasticity. Also, polyester threads are more resistant to abrasion, mildew and sunlight than cotton threads. The disadvantage is that polyester threads are thicker, more prone to breakage and melt at high temperatures.

Combined threads or reinforced threads: polyester base and cotton shell

At a time when polyester thread was becoming more and more popular, combined threads appeared, which contained a polyester thread at the base and a cotton braid on top. Thanks to this combination, sewing threads were obtained with the best properties of both materials. The cotton wrap gives the stitching an authentic cotton look and heat resistance, while the 100% polyester core gives the thread strength, stretch and abrasion resistance. Combined threads, also called reinforced threads, are becoming increasingly popular among denim manufacturers. In the post-Soviet space the most suitable for sewing clothes from denim are reinforced threads 65LH and reinforced threads 65LL. They differ from each other in that LH has a cotton braid on top of the lavsan core, and polyester braid for LL.

Micron polyester sewing thread

Suitable imported threads for jeans: Amann sewing threads

Amann sewing threads

Sewing threads from Gutermann

And, of course, Coats, which is the main manufacturer of sewing threads in the world, because every fifth pair of jeans is sewn with these threads. Of particular note are jeans threads such as Dual Duty, Dual Duty Supercotton and Epic.

Dual Duty Supercotton - reinforced threads High Quality, specially designed for sewing cotton products, which are to be further dyed. Only cotton threads are suitable for this purpose, but they have a number of disadvantages described above. Dual Duty Supercotton - hybrid sewing threads that combine best properties polyester and cotton. They have a high-strength polyester fiber core, which gives them high strength and elasticity, and a special cotton braid on top, which provides excellent paint absorption.

"Coats Epic" is a high-tech reinforced thread that combines the strength of a polyester core and the aesthetics of a polyester braid. Ideal for delicate garments as well as denim and workwear, they provide high performance in the most demanding sewing operations.

fanjean.ru

What threads are best for sewing jeans, and what technique to use to bypass thick seams?

What thread to sew jeans?

Jeans - the fabric is quite democratic, durable and designed for long intensive wear. Therefore, threads for sewing jeans are traditionally used with increased strength. Of the threads produced in Russia, reinforced sewing threads 65LH, 65LH-1 and 65 LL can be recommended. These threads have low hairiness, which prevents the accumulation of fibers (lint) in the eye of the needle and reduces the likelihood of breakage. Are intended for tailoring of products from skin, leather substitutes, footwear, jeans materials and special clothes. What the designations of threads mean, you can see in detail in the article “How to choose threads?”.

Unfortunately, the listed types of threads are not so easy to find in stores, and the color variety leaves much to be desired. But, on the shelves of sewing stores, you can choose imported threads. The following threads are intended for sewing denim materials:

Sewing Threads of the Firm “Aman”

reinforced polyester sewing thread - Saba 50 and Saba 35contrast thread for finishing stitches on jeans - Saba 30reinforced polyester cotton sewing thread - Rasant 75

Sewing Threads Gutermann

reinforced cotton-polyester sewing threads - H120, H75, H35

Sewing Threads by COATS

reinforced polyester sewing thread - Epic 60

Sewing Threads Under the Trademark “Rain Bow”

polyester staple sewing thread “Ada” - A 202/120

You can also try using leather stitching thread for finishing stitches on jeans.

I think, from the range of threads listed above, you can always choose the right ones.

Now it's time to answer the second question

How to get around thick seams?

The seams on the jeans are really very thick in places and not every machine can cope with them. I suggest not bypassing thick seams, but turning them into "non-thick"

The first thing to do is to put a special needle for sewing denim, for example, it can be a needle marked "Jeans" 130/705H (details about needles).

Second, you need to steam the thick sections of the seams well through a wet iron.

And third, it's good to knock them with a hammer. Yes, yes, with the most ordinary hammer, the fact that nails are hammered in.

Just remember to put a layer of other fabric on top of the jeans so as not to ruin the jeans themselves. As a result of steaming and beating, the sections of the seams will become thinner, tested on our own experience.

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dushka-li.ru

Jeans and thread

Kisulia Reg.04.11.2004 Message 1443	The first time I'm going to sew from stretch jeans (quite thin). Tell me, please, what threads to take for sewing and which ones for stitching? Thank you in advance!

Nyonka Reg.15.09.2003 Message 394	For stitching, you can Guterman, they have a special article for denim. Here I found a description of Guterman's different threads http://www.sew7.ru/nitki.html Good luck

Kisulia Reg.04.11.2004 Message 1443	Thank you Nenka!

Niva Reg.07.03.2005 Message 57	My humble opinion is that it is much better than jeans to be sewn in two threads. Two on top, one on the bottom... From a distance of 20 cm, you can no longer notice the difference. And the special "jeans" Guterman's threads are a bit thick. Cars are naughty.

Deo Reg.26.08.2003 Message 1645 Awards: 4	and you don’t buy jeans, but those that are called = extra strong =, also Gutermann.

Niva Reg.07.03.2005 Message 57	Well, I'm talking about the same ... But in one ordinary thread, the stitching looks thin.

Kisulia Reg.04.11.2004 Message 1443	Thank you very much for your advice. I will try.

Pionchik Reg.07.08.2006 Message 1007

smile Reg.03.11.2005 Message 278

club.osinka.ru

How to sew thick denim

This quote

How to sew thick denim, stitching jeans

Very practical tips for sewing denim from the Vilvetka needlework blog. Author's words.

I often sew from denim and always want the seams to look as "factory" as possible. Alas, it is not possible to imitate a factory double seam on a household sewing machine, but it is quite possible to make a decent double stitching. Many who tried to sew with special denim threads encountered difficulties - the machine skips stitches, loops on one of the sides of the fabric and so on. It was like that for me too. But then, after reading through several sewing forums, I found a number of tricks that finally reconciled my machine with thick denim threads.

How to sew thick denim, stitching jeans">

The first trick is threads

A thick decorative thread is used only as an upper thread; we thread an ordinary thread into the bobbin, for example, reinforced thread flax-lavsan No. 45. The upper thread tension needs to be slightly loosened.

Trick two - needle position

The most common problem with sewing jeans is skipped stitches on thickenings, for example, when sewing jeans at the seams. This happens because the needle does not have time to pierce the thick tissue. As a result, when the needle with the upper thread enters the shuttle, it has already turned and upper thread does not cling to the bottom. In order to avoid this, you can put the needle a little lower! Not all the way! I know, the thought sounds seditious, I was always taught to insert the needle all the way, otherwise ... well, something terrible and irreparable will happen to the typewriter. But no, it turned out to be a little different.

Here is the position of the needle in my machine when sewing jeans. And no skipped stitches!!!

The third trick for an even delay is a foot with a guide

Different manufacturers call these paws differently, but the essence is the same - the presence of a guide, the position of which can be adjusted. I have one like this. Naturally, the rubber band is not included. This is my copy from long-term operation has become loose :)) The stitching is done sequentially. Those. first, the seam is close to the edge, then, the second is parallel to the first. So that the stitching width is the same on the entire product, in the process of stitching the first decorative seam, I mark the stitching width directly on the foot. In this case, the red dot corresponds to the first line, the blue dot to the second. Very comfortably.

And finally, not tricks, but rather reminders:

Jeans are sewn with a thick needle No. 100, preferably a special denim needle. Such a needle has a special shape of the point, which makes it easier to pierce thick tissues.

A pretty well-known feature, but repetition is the mother of learning. If you need to flash a thickening, for example, the intersection of several seams, you should try to make this place thinner - steam it with an iron or soften it by hammering it. Do not overdo it with a hammer, otherwise you can ruin the fabric.

When passing through the thickening at the moment when the foot hangs in the air, clinging to the thickening, and the needle is already piercing a thin area, skipped stitches and violation of their length can often also occur due to the fact that the foot does not press the fabric at that moment. With such a transition, it is possible to pre-place paper folded in several layers under a thinner section, equal to the thickening in height. Of course, next to the seam, just to give support to the foot. When the presser foot has passed the thickening and has completely moved to the thin section, the paper can be removed and sewing can be continued as usual.

Good luck sewing your jeans! I hope these tricks will save you time and nerves.

For inspiration

lanand.livejournal.com

What threads are needed for sewing machines

The formation of the perfect stitch on the product depends on many factors, including the right choice of threads. If their thickness does not match the type of fabric or needle size, uneven or missing stitches may occur. A regular break in the thread can cause suspicion of a malfunction of the technique. These factors, of course, can be caused by incorrect equipment settings, but in more frequent cases, the reason is the wrong choice of thread. About what threads are needed for high-quality work sewing machines and will be discussed below.

Varieties of threads and their use for sewing equipment

The instructions for the sewing machine contain recommendations from the manufacturer regarding the setting of sewing modes depending on the type of material. There is also information about the use of thread and the appropriateness of needles. Let us consider in more detail the existing varieties of threads for sewing and their features.

Cotton

The best solution for sewing and repairing clothes with a sewing machine in combination with manual work will be ordinary cotton threads. They are the most popular and common for both amateurs and professionals. Cotton threads are the most affordable and cheapest, besides they are suitable for almost any type of fabric. The universal size of such a thread is No. 50, but if the fabric is too thin, then it can tear it or leave holes in the stitches, and when sewing rough clothes, the strength may not be enough, and the seam will open. Therefore, it is worth choosing the desired thickness or using other types of threads.

Polyester

Synthetic threads allow you to make the most beautiful line. The structure of the fiber is smooth, the thread does not fray in stitches, therefore it is often used in finishing stitches when it should be perfect. In addition, they are very durable and do not tear with a slight stretch. Coils are marked - 100% polyester. In Russian stores, the trademarks "Nitex" and "Ideal" are more common.

Polyester sewing thread brand "Nitex"

reinforced

They are distinguished by wear resistance and elasticity due to the peculiarity of the fiber structure, in which the lavsan base is braided with various fibers. The Russian marking of the coil, depending on the type of material, can be the following designations: LH - cotton thread, LL - linen, LSH - wool. There are also digital thickness indications: the higher the number, the thinner the thread.

Nylon

Such threads are moisture resistant and quite tough, so they are suitable for sewing shoes, bags. In the elements of clothing, they are used for a secret line or a hem of a product. It comes in two types: monofilament and twisted from several fibers.

Silk

Silk thread is not only used for silk and woolen fabrics, it is excellent for many types of material. Color resistant, does not fade when ironing or washing at high temperature. The main thing is to choose the right size in accordance with the fibrous structure of the fabric.

There are also special threads for decorative patterns on clothes. Metallized threads can also be used to decorate or create an exclusive product.

Silk sewing threads

Selection of threads depending on the texture of the material used

When sewing, not only the color range of fabrics is often combined, but also used different kind by fiber composition. Depending on this, threads of different thicknesses are used for sewing machines.

For sewing children's clothes, cotton and knitwear, ordinary cotton threads are suitable. good quality. The most optimal size is number 40.
For light items made of chiffon, as well as tulle, a coil with size No. 70-80 is suitable.
For dense costume fabric, threads No. 50-70 can be used.
Fine woolen, satin and synthetic fabrics work well with 40 to 70 stitches.
Thicker threads No. 30-40 are suitable for heavy fabrics, natural and artificial leather.

Silk thread is versatile and can be used for almost all types of fabrics. For thinner material, 120/3 thread is suitable. Further, in direct proportion to the decrease in the size of the thread with an increase in the thickness of the fabric:

crepe de chine, cambric - No. 100/3;
chintz, raincoat fabric, thick silk - No. 60/3;
drape, burlap, tarpaulin - No. 40/3.

For fastening several elements, a very convenient colorless nylon thread. In this case, its size is selected based on the main type of fabric of the product.

Inventing a new masterpiece in the field of fashion, work on a sewing machine is accompanied by hand sewing. Decorating, basting and much more is done by hand. To save time, you can choose the optimal type of thread, which is most suitable for all stages of the production of the product using a sewing machine. Here are some tips for beginners that will make the sewing process easier and more comfortable.

If the thread is selected according to the fabric, there should be no error in the stitch. If the stitching pulls the fabric or loops remain, you need to adjust the tension of the upper and lower threads on the machine.
For soles, it is better to use silk thread, as it does not leave a mark when ironing, does not tangle and is easily removed.
When sewing silk products in the color range, there may be a strong break in tone, this will be practically not noticeable on the product.
The thickness of the upper and lower threads should be the same and match the texture of the fabric.

It is important to remember that the quality of the stitching directly depends on the quality of the threads, their compliance with the material used for sewing. Also, the size of the needle can affect the perfect stitch. The last stage of preparation is setting up the sewing equipment, adjusting the thread tension. To make sure that the settings are correct, before you start sewing, it is better to check the type of stitch on a piece of fabric for the future product. Many people do this, even professional masters.

technika.expert

How to choose the right sewing thread and needle?

Moreover, most of the imported threads are represented not by the manufacturers themselves, but by intermediaries. At the same time, the threads are supplied in a modified package and under a different name, which creates certain problems for buyers, i.e. you and me. For example, sewing threads under the trademarks "MAX BASIC", "MAX AG" and "Ideal" are registered on the Russian market by the MAG company, which distributes sewing accessories. The well-known company "Gamma" offers polyester threads of "own production" under the trademarks "Nitka" and "Gamma". Who is the true manufacturer of these threads? Not known.

However, we, ordinary consumers, are of little interest in the name of the manufacturer. Much worse is that the thread packages do not indicate the characteristics of the thread, in particular, there is no thread number. When asked about the number of threads, the sellers shrug their shoulders and answer: polyester. That's all they can say.

A little bit of theory.

Some information from the symbols of threads made in RussiaL - lavsan X - cotton C - siblon

If you are interested in more detailed information on threads, I recommend downloading and studying the Handbook “Assortment of sewing threads, the most famous manufacturers, selection and determination of the consumption of sewing threads per product” It contains a lot of valuable and useful information.

Correspondence of three important components FABRIC - NEEDLE - THREAD

The tables for SELECTING THE NEEDLE FOR THE FABRIC brought to your attention are developed by the German manufacturer of needles, the SCHMETZ company.

You can download the tables for SELECTING THE NEEDLE FOR THE FABRIC on your computer's hard drive in two forms:

In the 1st column is a list of fabrics. There are 53 items in this list sorted alphabetically. For each fabric, a recommendation of what type and what number of needle is needed. (375 sq.): maschinen-nadel__po tkaniam - Info broken down by needle type. The fabrics sewn with this needle and the recommended needle number (385kv) are indicated maschinen-nadel_po tipamFiles in .pdf format.

Now, knowing what type and number of needle is needed for a given fabric, we need to find out WHICH THREAD IS NEEDED for further work?

Here's a sign to help guide you:

And finally, two little secrets for you:

It is important to know that the upper and lower threads must be either from the same spool or on the bobbin number higher (thinner). For example, the top thread is No. 40, the bottom thread is No. 50. A good line will not work if there are threads of the same number at the bottom and at the top, but from different spools. This provision is of fundamental importance and can be easily verified in practice.

Sometimes when sewing, the thread often breaks and winds. There may be several reasons. One of them: low-quality thread. You can check the suitability of the thread for use in a sewing machine as follows: unwind about 1 m of thread from the spool. Hold the thread at both ends, slightly spreading your arms to the sides, the thread sags slightly, forming the Latin letter U. Now move your palms towards each other and watch the thread. Poor quality thread will begin to twist, form loops. If the thread quality is good, then no change will occur.

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dushka-li.ru

Blog "About sewing…" » How to choose sewing threads?

I don’t know how it is in other cities and countries, but in my city the assortment of sewing threads on store shelves is represented by 10% of domestic threads and 90% of foreign-made threads.

A large number of threads come to Russia from China, Taiwan, India under the trademarks: "DOR SO", "DON HIEAN", "NEW STAR", "NEW ERA", "WONDER THREAD", "SILVER THREAD", "WINTER BIND" , "DC", "BUTTERFLY", "Routsher", etc.

So, for example, sewing threads under the trademarks "MAX BASIC", "MAX AG" and "Ideal" are registered on the Russian market by the company "MAG", which distributes sewing accessories. The well-known company "Gamma" offers polyester threads of "own production" under the trademarks "Nitka" and "Gamma". Who is the true manufacturer of these threads? Not known.

Let's try together to figure out what polyester threads are and how they compare in number with cotton threads, which are so familiar to the older generation, which have almost disappeared from sale and are present in all needle / thread / type of fabric selection tables.

Cotton threads have almost disappeared, they were replaced by strong reinforced threads made of synthetic fibers.

A little bit of theory.

Reinforced threads are produced by connecting a core of polyester multifilament yarn and a braid of cotton (LH), polyester (LL) or siblon (LS) fiber.

Some information from the symbols of threads produced in Russia

L - lavsan X - cotton C - siblon

If there are two letters LL, LH or LS in the thread marking - these are reinforced threads

The first letter indicates the type of core threads.

The second letter indicates the type of braid fibers

Cotton-lavsan reinforced LH threads are distinguished by their ability to withstand impact high temperatures(up to 200°С).

Polyester reinforced threads LL are considered universal and provide high strength of the connection of parts, good appearance and elasticity of the line. They are used for stitching parts, overcasting cuts and performing finishing lines.

But, back to imported polyester threads.

Polyester (aka polyester) is the trade name for polyester threads, an analogue of lavsan. Those. polyester threads are lavsan threads produced in Russia under the LL marking.

And how to compare the size of reinforced threads LL or LH with cotton threads?

Reinforced threads 45LL or 44 LH (photo below) are similar in thickness to cotton threads No. 40, recommended for sewing products from suit and coat fabrics.

Polyester threads "DOR TAK", "DON HIEAN", "NEW STAR", "Ideal" and other similar threads (next photo), are slightly thinner and can be considered substitutes for cotton threads No. 50.

They correspond to threads of Russian production under the marking 36LH and 35LL. Recommended for sewing products from thin and medium fabrics, as well as knitted fabrics.

For sewing products from denim materials, leather and leatherette, marking threads 65LH, 70LL, 80LL are used.

If you are interested in more detailed information on threads, I recommend downloading and studying the Handbook “Assortment of sewing threads, the most famous manufacturers, choosing and determining the consumption of sewing threads per product” It contains a lot of valuable and useful information 🙂

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How to sew thick denim, stitching jeans
Very practical tips for sewing denim from the Vilvetka needlework blog. Author's words.
I often sew from denim and always want the seams to look as "factory" as possible. Alas, it is not possible to imitate a factory double stitch on a household sewing machine, but it is quite possible to make a decent double stitching.
Many who tried to sew with special denim threads faced difficulties - the machine skips stitches, loops on one of the sides of the fabric, and so on. It was like that for me too. But then, after reading through several sewing forums, I found a number of tricks that finally reconciled my machine with thick denim threads.
How to sew thick denim, stitching jeans">
The first trick is threads
A thick decorative thread is used only as an upper thread; we thread an ordinary thread into the bobbin, for example, reinforced thread flax-lavsan No. 45. The upper thread tension needs to be slightly loosened.
Trick two - needle position
The most common problem with sewing jeans is skipped stitches on thickenings, for example, when sewing jeans at the seams. This happens because the needle does not have time to pierce the thick tissue. As a result, when the needle with the upper thread enters the hook, it has already turned and the upper thread does not cling to the lower one. In order to avoid this, you can put the needle a little lower! Not all the way! I know, the thought sounds seditious, I was always taught to insert the needle all the way, otherwise ... well, something terrible and irreparable will happen to the typewriter. But no, it turned out to be a little different.
Here is the position of the needle in my machine when sewing jeans. And no skipped stitches!!!
The third trick for an even delay is a foot with a guide
Different manufacturers call these paws differently, but the essence is the same - the presence of a guide, the position of which can be adjusted.

I have this one. Naturally, the rubber band is not included. This is my copy from a long operation loosened :))
The stitching is done sequentially. Those. first, the seam is close to the edge, then, the second is parallel to the first. So that the stitching width is the same on the entire product, in the process of stitching the first decorative seam, I mark the stitching width directly on the foot. In this case, the red dot corresponds to the first line, the blue dot to the second. Very comfortably.
And finally, not tricks, but rather reminders:
Jeans are sewn with a thick needle No. 100, preferably a special denim needle. Such a needle has a special shape of the point, which makes it easier to pierce thick tissues.
A pretty well-known feature, but repetition is the mother of learning. If you need to flash a thickening, for example, the intersection of several seams, you should try to make this place thinner - steam it with an iron or soften it by hammering it. Do not overdo it with a hammer, otherwise you can ruin the fabric.
When passing through the thickening at the moment when the foot hangs in the air, clinging to the thickening, and the needle is already piercing a thin area, skipped stitches and violation of their length can often also occur due to the fact that the foot does not press the fabric at that moment. With such a transition, it is possible to pre-place paper folded in several layers under a thinner section, equal to the thickening in height. Of course, next to the seam, just to give support to the foot. When the presser foot has passed the thickening and has completely moved to the thin section, the paper can be removed and sewing can be continued as usual.
Good luck sewing your jeans! I hope these tricks will save you time and nerves.

Hello, dear readers of the blog "site". Now we will deal with you in one important matter - how to choose the right one. After all, the quality of the machine stitch, and hence the quality of your product, directly depends on the correctly selected needle. Whatever you are going to sew, be it a skirt, trousers, jacket, jeans or a thin blouse - you will need to put in sewing machine the "correct" needle. This will be the key to a quality sewn thing. And first you need to decide what types of fabrics you are going to use. The needles are specially marked, which allows you to accurately determine their ability to interact with various materials.

For household sewing machines, standard needles with a flat bulb are produced (this is the upper part of the needle that is inserted into the machine). Needles for industrial machines have a round bulb, so do not confuse. All fit any machine.

You can list some of the best companies that produce machine needles: these are the German companies Schmetz, Grotz-Beckert, Organ Needles.

The number, which is indicated in the name of the needle, indicates its thickness in fractions of a millimeter or inch (see table below).

And than more value numbers - the thicker the needle will be.

Correspondence of diameters of needles and types of fabrics

Elastic materials: knitwear, lycra and others - needles No. 65-90
Light shirt fabrics - needles No. 60-70
Thin fabrics: chiffon, batiste - needles No. 80-90
Suit fabrics, staple, coarse calico, bed fabrics - needles No. 80-90
Jeans, light wool - needle number 100
Thick wool - needle No. 110
Burlap, coarse fabric - needle No. 120
Leather, canvas - needles from #100 to #200

It is very important to choose the right needle, as it simplifies the processing of many materials. For example, if you sew knitted fabric with a universal needle, then you will surely notice skipped stitches, and the stitching will be loose. Therefore, it will be very important for the quality of the product to replace the universal needle with a stretch needle, since it has a rounded end, and where the tip of the universal needle cannot pierce the knitted fiber, the stretch needle will gently pass through the fabric.

I specifically described the difference between these two types of needles in such detail so that you understand that there is exactly the same colossal difference between all the needles below.

sewing needles

The universal needle has a slightly rounded point and is suitable for almost all kinds of fabrics. №60-100

Jersey, elastic needles have a spherical point and sew knitted, knitted, elastic materials. №70-90

Stretch needle is suitable for stretch, knitted fabrics. No. 70-90

The denim needle has a very thin point and sews denim and thick fabrics, canvas, work clothes. №80-110

The microtex needle has a particularly thin point and sews microfiber fabrics, silk. №60-90

The leather needle is designed for sewing suede and leather products.

The self-threading needle is designed for the convenience of threading into it.