Where is the upper thread tension in the machine. Adjusting the thread tension on a sewing machine

Hello!
I'm at war here with my new Singer machine, well, she doesn't want to sew beautifully with me: either she makes loops from above, then darkness from below. No matter how I turned the thread adjustment wheel, it didn’t help: ((Well, I can’t do that in a new country for me, there’s nowhere to run, I climbed onto the Internet for information. I found this, maybe it will come in handy for someone else:
The instruction is taken from two articles from this site "How simple!" :

1. The spring that compresses a thread , should be twisted so that the cap, filled with a bobbin and being in a state raised by the elongated end of our thread, does not allow the thread to unwind until we pull it sharply up.
2. We pass the upper thread through the feed system. Usually this process looks like this: thread passes through several metal eyes, then passes through the tension regulator, then it is passed into the eye of the thread take-up lever and through several staples it enters the eye of the needle.
3. We figured out how to skip the thread. Now let's move on to adjusting its tension. We will get the most beautiful and high-quality stitch if the lower and upper threads are intertwined in the depth of the material, invisible to the eye. This will happen if the thread tension is correct. We can adjust the tension of the upper thread with a mechanism on the front panel of the machine, and the lower thread with a tuning screw located on the hook.
4. Start adjusting the tension from the bobbin thread. This thread is wound onto a bobbin, which is inserted into the bobbin case. The regulator is a screw on the bobbin case that presses the spring. If you lift the bobbin case by the thread coming out of it, then it will hang quietly on it. With a slight twitch on the thread, the cap should slide down a little. Adjust the thread tension by tightening or loosening the screw. Turn the screwdriver slightly, as the screw is very small and can pop out.
5. Consider the settings for the tension of the upper thread, which consists in tightening the screw that compresses the plate-shaped washers. So, to check, let's take a small piece fabrics and sew it. If the loops are hanging, then the upper thread is too loose or too tight. If the seam is relatively even, then we look - on which side the knots of the plexus of the lower and upper threads are more noticeable. Nodules are usually easily palpable with a finger. If the tension is set correctly, the nodules will no longer be felt at all.
6. If shaggy air loops form on the top of the fabric, loosen the upper thread tension. To do this, turn the control knob counterclockwise arrows . If the stitching is shaggy from the bottom, then turn the tension knob in the opposite direction. side - clockwise. This will increase the tension on the upper thread.So, we conclude:The nodules are located approximately in the middle of the seam and are not palpable (almost not palpable). This indicates that the thread tension is optimal.Nodules are felt on the underside. This means that the upper thread is not tight enough.Knots are groped on the upper side of the seam. In this case, the upper thread tension is too high.The loops are hanging - the tension of the upper thread strongly deviates from the norm, both in one direction and in the other.The stitch will be weak and unusable if the bobbin thread is loose or loose on the bobbin case. The upper thread also has a weak tension.
7. Presser foot pressure can be adjusted using a spring. Automatically, this setting is carried out in the most advanced models of sewing machines. For sewing thicker fabrics, the presser foot can be raised up to a height of 12 mm. If the presser foot presses hard on the fabric, this can cause the sewn layers to shift, move difficultly, and sometimes tear the fabric. If the presser foot does not press hard enough on the material, the stitch will not work properly.

Promised ordelny post. How to adjust the tension of the lower (!) Thread in sewing machine.
Everyone loves to turn the upper thread tension wheel, but at one time the master taught me that the perfect seam does not begin with this! And with the correct tension of the lower thread. For some reason, many are very afraid to turn the shuttle in which the bobbin. At the same time, the main argument is: "There is a small screw, I'm afraid that it will fall, and I will never find it again." I don’t see any drama in this - how blind I am, but I always find this screw. Mostly by the sound, I hear where he fell. If something important has fallen in your closed room, where will it go - search the nearest meter and find it. Not to mention the fact that it is generally very rare that such a screw falls out, and if you are so afraid, work on the table and on a sheet of white paper. You definitely won't miss.

So - this screw needs to be turned in fact, very, very little. Minimum! For some tiny piece of a degree! Those. with feeling and without fanaticism. If you twist it like that, it won't fall out.

In general, we put a bobbin in the shuttle. At this point, one of the most furious discussions is already beginning - in which direction should the bobbin be threaded? In which direction should it roll? This is "wind off clockwise", this is generally a kapets. Endless discussion - what should spin clockwise? Nika? Bobbin?

So, take the bobbin so that the thread hangs from right side. Like this.

And on this bobbin, held like this, you put on a shuttle, as it were. The closed part towards you, the open part away from you. Then it will be right.

Now we take the thread, like this:

And let's see what happens. If the hook hangs on the thread without moving, and from shaking it remains in the same place, then the tension is too strong. If all this is rushing down at high speed, it is too weak. We begin to turn the screw (with a suitable screwdriver). And whoever has two screws on the shuttle (older models), they turn them approximately equally, one, then the other. A droplet (quite a droplet!) Twisted, and try again.

The ideal result looks like this: you take up the thread, and the shuttle hangs on it for a start. But if you shake it all up a little, it winds down about 5-10 cm, then slows down and stops. If he just flies down - not enough. If it *almost* stops after 10 centimeters, but after braking it still continues to slowly crawl down - not enough. If it just rolled down on some such piece, and then stopped and stands - good! If you shook it, and it went down only a couple of cm, and braked with a sharp movement - a lot. If it descends two or three times in very small jerks, then stops, but in general it flew less than 5 cm - still too much.

That's when it became "as it should be" we insert the shuttle into the car, and we begin to deal with the upper part.

Attention: if you decide to sew with a different kind of thread (for example, you had cotton thread, and then you decided to sew with synthetic thread, which is smoother and thinner), you need to readjust everything. Surely when changing the thread it will turn out that the tension has become very small. (Cotton "shaggy" threads slow down much more).

And one more thing: while you are trying like this, you will have a bunch of thread unwound. Sometimes it takes about 10 attempts until the tension is good. For some reason, many feel sorry for this meter of thread, which they unwind at the same time. Like, it disappeared. And the fact that you sew a million meters of a bad seam, ruining both the threads, and the fabric, and the nerves - is it not a pity?

Now we fill the car and sew. We look at the seam that turned out.
Here is a beautiful picture found on the Internet, which shows what we are achieving. Threads, upper and lower, meet and intertwine somewhere between the layers of fabric. So, you need to ensure that the place of their meeting is, if possible, in the middle between the layers of fabric. And not closer to one of the surfaces.

It is clear that there is little thickness. And we are talking about some tenths of a millimeter. But this can be tweaked to be really exactly in the middle.

A good seam is when the stitches lie side by side, the line is even, but (!) At the same time, each individual stitch is visible. Those. you can clearly see the place where the needle stuck into the fabric, and one stitch ends. This should be a place where you can see how the thread plunged into the depths of the fabric!

Here is an extreme example of too much tension. On the side where you see almost the entire straight thread, and from the thread on the opposite side you see loops - the tension is too strong on that side. Those. if you see this picture from above, loosen the top tension. If you have such a picture from the bottom - increase the top tension.

But now we are close to a normal seam.

I tried to find a suitable picture, but found not quite. Here is an example of a seam:

This seam is even, normal, does not wind. We can say that he is OK. You can sew a thing with such a seam, it will hold on, everything will be fine. But I would not make a decorative stitch in a conspicuous place with such a seam. Because it is not yet "drawn" enough, not "chased" enough, there is no beautiful stitch pattern.
What do they lack? In the top picture, the top tension is still quite a bit too big, there is a straight line, there is not enough beautiful stitch depth (especially at the very top seam, this can be seen). In the second picture, on the contrary, it pulls a little too much from below. The seam has not yet suffered so that they cannot be sewn directly. But beauty is spoiled. The upper thread is too immersed in the fabric, too somehow poorly traced, "sinks".

It seems like a good seam, normal, even, does not pull. As already mentioned, if you sew so that all the seams are on the wrong side, you can live happily ever after with such a seam. But in a conspicuous place, I would not build anything with such a seam. Although everything is smooth, and nothing in it is not bad. But the "graphics" of it will not be beautiful enough. This is especially evident on the part of the seam, which is closer to the bottom. There, the seam is turned, as it were, to face us, it is clear that it is too uniform, like a line. It doesn't read like a seam. Is not cool.

Beautiful, good seam, this is it:

The thread plunges into the fabric, goes under its surface, it is clearly visible where one stitch ends and another begins. But in the very middle of the stitch, the thread lies on the surface of the fabric, not too tight. The drawing is even, does not jump. And ideally, if we flip the fabric over, we should see exactly the same thing on the other side! The more the same, the better!

I want to write something important here:

It goes without saying that setting up the machine so that there are no loops on either side, so that the seam holds the layers of fabric together well, and that nothing from the seam gathers in waves is a matter of course. Without this, you will not sew anything that you will be satisfied with. You will never be able to iron it well, it will always wave at the seams, or the seam will spread and be too visible, etc. This is the minimum program.

But between "a seam that sews great" and a seam that looks great "there is this little difference, and you need to learn to feel it. And you need to grow in yourself the desire not to stop at the "normal seam", but to spin your car until you see a *beautiful* seam. One that really decorates the thing when it is visible from the outside.

And - this is very important - I am sure that such really beautiful seams are the first thing that distinguishes a well-tailored thing from what is called "handmade smells bad." What is contemptuously called "amateur housewives" or "Samovari Violin", or "Home-grown" - this is when the thing seems to be sewn evenly and well, but everything is trimmed with seams that "distinctly smell of a home machine." Someone will look at such a seam on the street, and immediately understand that it was sewn at home by hand. Because industrial machines don't sew like that. Industrial machines are always distinguished by the fact that their tension is set perfectly. (It is automatically adjusted there, and in any case, the threads meet EXACTLY in the middle between the layers.)

The next thing that distinguishes industrially sewn things is even seams, and an ideally maintained distance from the edge. But this is a separate song. This is not so difficult to learn, you just need to take your time when a visible line is made.

P.S. What else would you like to say: even if we are talking about tenths of millimeters. Any good master A sewing machine repairer will tell you that any machine (as long as it's not broken) can be tuned to a good stitch. In the case of capricious machines, this may take some time. But you can get it! First of all, the main thing here is patience, you must not give up, but continue to twist until it is where it needs to be. And the second is arrogance. Don't settle for a seam that's "OK"! Demand from the car that it was beautiful. So that she sews such a line that you want to show with pride! The only difference is that some stop too early. And others continue to twist the car little by little, until it becomes completely good!

P.P.S. In this sense, for me, cars whose shuttle cannot be removed are a tragedy. There are such modern models in which the bobbin is directly inserted into the shuttle train in the machine, and everything is automatic there. There is also a screw that can be twisted. But how do you know if it's fastened enough? After all, there is no such technique that you hold, shake, and it falls down. Is it necessary to somehow study and remember the feeling with which a thread is pulled out of such a shuttle? To feel if she resists enough? I've seen expensive cars that have this kind of shuttle, but on the other hand they have "automatic tension control". I don't know how well it works. But it's good that she is. But when the shuttle is not removed, and there is no machine, I don’t know how to adjust the lower tension. (Who knows?)

Work order:

1. Remove the top cover.
2. Remove the regulator from the machine.
3. Disassemble.
4. Restore spring.
5. Collect everything.
6. Correctly install in the car.
7. Install the top cover.

In photo 1, the front cover is removed.

Photo 1.

Disassembly:

1. We loosen the screw by 3-4 turns and pull out the upper thread regulator. Photo 2.
2. Inside, we see a wire spring - we pull it out.
3. We take out the bracket of the "tensioner" of the upper thread.
4. We take out the lifting handle - the foot rod. Photo 3.
5. Lubricate it oil I - 18 A (spindle).
6. We put everything in place except the upper thread regulator.

Lubricate, with oil, the axis of the lifting lever, the stem of the foot. Without disassembly, do not crawl to lubricate.

Photo 2

In photo 3, a screw is shown that needs to be loosened by 3 - 4 half-turns so that you can pull out the axis, lever, lift, rod - paws.

Photo 3.

On photo 4, disassembled regulator, upper thread.

Disassembled, it consists of:

1. Screw.
2. Conical spring.
3. Washer with jumper.
4. Plate.
5. Plate.
6. Rod - pusher.
7. Threaded axle.
8. Groove for a conical spring.
9. Seat for compensating spring.
10. compensation spring.

Photo 4.

On photo 5, compensation spring, dressed on the axis, the upper thread regulator.

Photo 5.

Assembly and immediate adjustment.

1. On the curly axle, put on a compensation spring. Straighten one new coil of the compensation spring, and bend a ring out of it, instead of a ball, and a thread guide. As shown in Photo 5.
2. The tension of the compensating spring is free. The spring touches, far ledge, from the thread guide, the upper thread. Photo 7.
3. Screw on the base, tighten. Photo 7.

In photo 6, the first bend, from the bottom of the spring is not right. If we take the case of the base, for the dial, then the compensation spring costs 15 minutes. The axis must be rotated counterclockwise for 15 minutes. And in this position, clamp the screw on the base. It should be like in photo 7.

Photo 6.

Correct position, photo 7.

Photo 7.

On photo 8. Assembled adjuster, for alignment, bent axle.

1. We dress the plates, with the convex part to each other.
2. On plates, we put on a squeezing washer, with a curved jumper, outward.
3. On the squeezing washer, we put on a spring with a large diameter, and on the narrow part of the spring, we wind the pressure nut.

If the split part of the curly axis is compressed, then in order to align it and not break the axis, we do this: We put it on the axis - we screw the nut upside down, and open the slot of the axis with a screwdriver sting (if the axis is bent).

1. If it is slightly bent, the nut, when turned out, will even out this bend.

Install - Tension regulator, upper thread in place, under it is a spring, three turns. We press the regulator into the spring, so that the tide on the sleeve body is flush with the lowered part of the base. The distance from the top of the thread of the guide bracket to the bottom of the curved part of the spring is 19 - 20 mm.

1. Check the bend of the spring. We press the ball of the spring, and wind the spring under the thread of the guide bracket.

If the front bend, the compensation spring, enters under the thread guide bracket, without touching, then everything is fine. If the spring touches the bracket, braking will occur, and this is a break in the upper thread. You need to take round pliers and bend the spring.

When inserting the assembled upper thread regulator into the machine body, it is necessary to raise the presser foot shaft lifting handle by 1/3, otherwise the following will happen when sewing: When switching from thin to thick, the plates will spontaneously open. And the upper thread, on the thickening, loops from below.

On photo 9, the assembled regulator is installed in the machine.

If the thread tension is incorrect, check the machine according to the following procedure:

1. Check if the threading is correct.

• The bobbin thread is visible on the top of the material.
• The upper thread appears as a straight line on the top side of the fabric.

Bottom filling is incorrect.

The upper thread is tightened for correct threading.

• The upper thread is visible from the underside of the material.
• The bobbin thread appears as a straight line on the bottom of the fabric.
• The stitches on the bottom of the fabric are loose or looped.

The top filling is incorrect.

Turn the tension dial to “4”, and then refer to Upper thread is tightened for correct threading.

2. Check that the needle matches the material.

The sewing machine needle should be selected according to the material and thickness of the thread being used.

If the needle and thread do not match the material, the thread tension cannot be adjusted properly and will cause the material to gather or skip stitches.

3. Select the desired settings on the tension control.

Turn the thread tension dial to the desired setting. The correct tension varies depending on the type of fabric and the threads used.

• Adjust the thread tension while trial sewing on a piece of the same fabric on which you will be sewing the project.
• If the threading of the upper thread and bobbin thread are not correct, the thread tension may not be adjusted correctly even by turning the tension dial. Check the top tension and then the bottom tension and then adjust the tension.

When the lower thread is visible from above.

(1) Bottom side (2) The bobbin thread is visible from above (3) Upper thread (4) Top side (5) Lower thread

Turn the tension control to a lower value (to the left). Relaxing tension.

When the upper thread is visible from below.

(1) Bottom side (2) Upper thread (3) Top side (4) Lower thread (5) Upper thread visible from below

Turn the tension adjuster to greater value(to the right). Increasing tension.