Perfect time for blackcurrant plantings- the beginning of the autumn period (the end of September - the first days of October).

The plant planted at this time, before the first frost, has time to completely restore the root system, firmly settling in the ground.

• Blackcurrant is recommended to be planted in the spring only in special cases - it does not tolerate such a planting too well.

If you missed the favorable autumn time, dig in the seedlings before the spring season.

But be aware that such a landing requires certain places, with very little snow cover (the shrub easily freezes the roots).

In the spring, blackcurrants are best planted at the end of April (have time to do this before the buds open).

The most important event

This is exactly the planting of currants. It's hard work and responsibility.

seedlings for planting black currants not only buy in nurseries, but if you already have currant plantations on your site, then you can take excellent material from them:

1. We cut several cuttings from young, summer branches. Leave 4 buds on each.
2. We cut off the tops of the branches - we do not need them.
3. We put the cuttings in water and wait about 3 weeks.

After this time, young cuttings give roots. As soon as the long-awaited roots appear, the currant is ready to appear in the garden.

When planting, keep in mind that the bushes will grow, so keep the required distance between each bush of about 2 m.

Important boarding rules

Do you know the main secret of how to plant blackcurrants? One of the most important conditions for this event is that the root neck of a young seedling should go deep into the ground 6-9 cm below the soil level.

In this case, the bush is located at an angle of 45 °.

• By observing these conditions, you will allow the young growth to quickly form a strong bush and form additional healthy shoots and a developed root system.

If the gardener needs standard material, blackcurrants are planted without slope and deepening.

Such seedlings will become rather weak plants (they cannot be protected from winds and frosts), and the life period will be limited (only 6-10 years).

But they have their undeniable advantages:

• Due to its compact form, the standard currant is ideal for small gardens where there is very little space.
• These species receive more sun, so their yield will be higher than that of ordinary seedlings.
• Standard varieties get sick less, because their branches do not come into contact with the ground.
• Such crops are easier and easier to care for.

The most suitable blackcurrant varieties for growing in the standard way: Aist, Dream of Kyiv 3, Universitetskaya, Memorable, Sanyuta, Yubileinaya, Monastic, Premiere.

Autumn planting of blackcurrant

1. Immediately before planting, all damaged, diseased roots are cut off from the seedlings.
2. A bucket of water is poured into the pits / trenches prepared for planting.
3. The cutting is carefully placed in the hole in an inclined position (keep a 45° angle). At the same time, carefully straighten the roots.
4. Gradually, slowly, the young plant is covered with soil, while watering (it will take up to 3-4 buckets of water per plant).
5. Gently tamp near the trunk, pressing the ground with the toe of the foot.
6. After planting, the soil near the shrub is mulched (rotted foliage, peat, humus or compost is suitable for mulch). The mulch layer will protect the shrub from moisture loss and prevent the formation of an unnecessary crust on the ground.

Advice. Experienced gardeners recommend that when planting blackcurrants (at the time when the plant is covered with soil), shake the stalk periodically so that the soil takes up voids near the root system. It is best to plant shrubs with an assistant: one person holds the seedling, the other digs it in.

After planting, the plant is pruned, leaving only 5-10 cm from the ground level.

Such a hard pruning will delay the appearance of the first crop for a year, but it will give the shrub more strength, allowing it to form a powerful, strong bush.

Spring planting of black currant

Recall that the black-eyed beauty does not tolerate the spring landing well, so leave these events for areas where winter does not indulge in a lot of snow.

1. Saplings at the very beginning of spring are cut short to prevent premature bud break.
2. We wait for the complete thawing of the soil and plant a young plant in the garden. The best time for this is April-May.

All activities for the preparation of landing sites and the landing itself take place exactly the same as in autumn.

Cultivation of stems

Unlike the usual ones, standard blackcurrant plantings are done straight, without tilting.

Our task is to prevent the development of root branches. The neck of the young root is cleared of additional shoots and buds. Buds must be removed from the entire seedling before planting.

This procedure is carried out in the same way as the usual option. Varieties-boles are planted at the beginning of August.

1. We plant a cleaned, thick summer branch in the garden and pinch its upper zone.
2. The following year, young twigs appear on the top of the plant. In the month of August, we again pinch each fresh process. At the same time, we remove the rest of the fresh shoots and leaves below the required length (for young standard seedlings 20-25 cm from the ground level, for two-year-old seedlings about 40 cm).
3. In the third year of development, we again pinch the tops of new branches and remove near the root growth. All shoots longer than 10 cm are also cut off. During this period, your standard seedling can already please you first, but so far with a small harvest of berries.

In the subsequent time, pinching is carried out every spring and summer, at the same time all branches that appear below the established level of our trunk are removed.

After planting black currants in the third year of life, our currants will already produce abundant and rich crops.

But, unfortunately, the fruitful period may end after 6-7 years of the life of the culture.

Young stems in dry weather (especially in dry late spring) need watering with simultaneous mulching.

In autumn, the roots of the young must be protected from severe frosts. To do this, after mid-October, we will spud the soil with peat or compost to a height of about 10-12 cm.

We will need to cover the area near the root with a 5-6 cm layer of mulch.

Fragrant beauty care

Watering

Blackcurrant is very respectful of moisture (its roots are located close to the surface and cannot provide themselves with drinking from groundwater).

If there is not enough water, the shrub will slow down its growth, and the berries will become small and quickly crumble.

The autumn dry season will lead to the freezing of plants (especially if the winter is harsh and snowless).

It is very important to provide the bush with drink in the following periods:

1. The time of growth of branches and the formation of ovaries (end of May-beginning of June).
2. When pouring berries (June).
3. After harvest (August-September).
4. If the autumn is too dry, we do watering before winter (end of October).

The soil must be moistened to a depth of about 40 cm. The moisture consumption is 4-5 buckets per m² (the amount increases when watering in dry and windy weather).

For this procedure, it is necessary to dig ditches to a depth of 12-15 cm near the bush, keeping a distance of 20-30 cm from the tips of the branches.

It is better to water in the evening with warm water.

• Watering should be stopped when the currant berries begin to acquire color, otherwise the juicy berries will crack on the bushes due to waterlogging of their cell sap.

Needed fertilizers

The black-eyed beauty lacks nutritional components in the soil. Top dressing of culture is carried out throughout the entire time of its development and fruiting.

♦ The first two years of life. After planting blackcurrant, the young plant will have enough nutrition (potassium and phosphorus) from the dressing mixture that you laid on the bottom of the planting trench.

At this time, we will feed currants only at the beginning of the spring season with nitrogen supplements (50 g of urea per bush).

♦ Third anniversary. At this time, in addition to nitrogen-containing additives, currants already need organic (5-6 kg), superphosphate (40-50 g) and potassium (15-20 g) supplements.

♦ Fourth year of growth. Starting from this period, we will reduce the dose of urea to 20-40 g. Now it needs to be applied in two stages (2/3 in early spring, the rest after flowering of the shrub).

In subsequent years of life after planting blackcurrant, the rate of nitrogen supplements (urea) remains the same, but the amount of other types of fertilizers depends on the quality of the soil:

• Loamy land. For one bush organic additives (15-20 g), superphosphate (130-150 g), potassium sulfate (35-40 g). Fertilize in three years once (in autumn).
• Peatlands and wetlands. In the autumn seasons, each plant is fed with superphosphate (120-150 g) and potassium sulfate (25-30 g). Fertilize currants every three years. In addition, every four years such land must be limed (400-500 g of lime per m² is applied).
• Light soils (sandstones and loamy sandstones). Feed every spring. Each bush needs organic matter (4-6 kg), superphosphates (45-50 g) and potassium sulfate (15-20 g).

♦ Liquid supplements. In addition to the main additives, the beauty also needs liquefied ones (they are added simultaneously when watering).

As feed, you can use slurry (a bucket of manure diluted 3-4 times per bush), bird droppings (it is diluted 10 times, consumption: ½ bucket per bush).

They are brought in:

1. During the flowering season (May).
2. During the rapid growth of shoots (June).
3. After the end of the harvest, when the buds of flowers are laid (August).

In the June-July months, foliar application of mineral fertilizers will be useful: potassium permanganate (12 g), boric acid (4 g), copper sulfate (40 g).

Each substance is dissolved separately, then the solutions are mixed, diluted in a bucket of water. They spray plantings.

Weeding and loosening

For the excellent development of currants, the soil around the plant must be kept in a moist, weed-free state.

Carefully loosen the soil to a depth of 10 cm. Carry out such activities every 20 days.

• You will have to engage in loosening less often if you will mulch the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe earth in the bush area with organic matter (grass, compost, peat). The ideal mulch thickness is about 8 cm.

♦ Autumn. If your site is loamy and heavy, it needs to be dug 15 cm around the circumference of the bush, between plantings of blackcurrant 15-20 cm.

At the same time, break up frozen clods of earth for better absorption of moisture. If there is light soil, there is no need to dig it, just regularly loosen it by 10 cm.

♦ Spring. Under each bush you need to mulch the soil. Use dry grass or peat.

Some gardeners cover the ground near the shrub with newspapers (this is done when the buds swell).

Newspapers are removed when the black-eyed beauty begins to bloom (during this period, beneficial insects crawl up).

Then (after flowering) the paper can be returned to its original place.

Shaping and trimming shrubs

♦ Formative blackcurrant pruning. This is the most important condition for the good development of the plant.

The first time the plant is pruned after planting. At the same time, about ½ of the size of each shoot is cut off with the obligatory preservation of up to 4 developed buds on each.

These procedures continue for the next 2-3 years.

Annually cut out aged, frail and thickened branches. They need to leave three young, strong annual shoots.

If the currant does not form enough basal shoots, take care of the existing ones and stimulate the emergence of new ones.

To do this, remove perennial branches (even fruit-bearing ones). Spud regularly bush up to 10-15 cm in height.

• Formative pruning is completely completed 4 years after planting blackcurrants. At this time, the plant provided itself with 12-15 shoots of different ages (at the same time, there will be 3-4 more young one-year-old branches).

♦ Sanitary pruning. Simultaneously with the forming pruning, sanitary pruning is also carried out. In the process of processing, diseased branches, dry, broken ones are removed.

They are cut off completely, leaving not even a hemp.

♦ Anti-aging pruning. Such care is carried out for an adult fruit-bearing plant.

He is relieved of mature (5-6-year-old) branches. They no longer bear fruit, but only take strength from the currant.

It is easy to recognize such branches: they are thick at the base, with dark brown, almost black bark. Almost all of their fruit twigs are withered and dying.

• But if the old branches are in good condition, they are developed, have strong growths and large buds - the life of such shoots, if desired, can be extended for a year.

In the process of rejuvenating pruning, young branches are also removed (undeveloped, with a small number of fruiting buds).

The best pruning period is early spring, before bud break (late March-early April).

But gardeners sometimes do not have time to carry out the procedures (they take a lot of time).

Therefore, pruning currants in the fall (after harvesting the berries) is acceptable. Such an event can be carried out slowly, right up to the cold weather.

How to keep the ovaries

After planting blackcurrant and its seemingly good growth, the plant suddenly begins to shed its ovaries at the end of flowering. What happened?

The reason is the unexpected May and June frosts (this is when the currant blooms and forms the ovaries).

• The best way to protect your blackcurrant beauties is to spray the bushes with water. Moreover, not only plants are irrigated, but also the soil around them. It is necessary to spray abundantly in the morning and in the evening several times.

Wet plants during frosts are covered with an ice crust, which releases heat when thawed.

Such care for blackcurrant saves the future crop from death. Many summer residents during these periods cover the currants with plastic wrap or burlap.

The ideal would be to combine the shelter of shrubs and their spraying.

Smoke is an excellent tool. Use raspberry, strawberry leaves, last year's potato tops, straw, or straw manure.

The material is folded in heaps about 70 cm high, up to 80 cm long and wide. They are placed on the same line with a distance of 3-4 m.

• Smoke begins when the temperature drops to + 1 ° C (when frost is promised). And the process is completed an hour after the thorough heating of the air (from 0 ° C).

Gathering a fragrant harvest

Beautiful, bulky odorous berries must be harvested after full ripening (all greenish shades should disappear from the color).

The blackcurrant crop is harvested with individual berries, or with whole brushes.

Use large trays or boxes for harvesting.

• If you needed blackcurrant planting for sale and the crop needs to be transported, it is better to let the berries ripen on the way. In this case, you need to collect them on brushes. The fruits should be firm, not completely colored (but green color should be absent).

It is best to harvest currants in the early morning (in the absence of dew) or late in the evening. Immediately after the rain, this procedure should not be carried out - wait until the bushes dry out.

The uniformity of fruit ripening depends on the duration of flowering. If the currant blooms for a long time, then the berries will ripen at different times.

To achieve ripening in the same period, arrange a more uniform and intense lighting of currant bushes.

Reproduction of currant:

Currants are propagated mainly vegetatively - by dividing the bush, lignified and green cuttings, layering (arched, vertical, horizontal). With the seed method of reproduction, the offspring does not fully inherit all the qualities of the variety.

In connection with the increasing spread of diseases and pests during the propagation of currants, especially importance should be given to the cultivation of healthy planting material. Procurement of cuttings and layering should be carried out only from special mother liquors planted by super-elite and elite seedlings. On the mother plantations, preventive measures are taken to protect plants. They are located with mandatory spatial isolation - at least 1.5-2 km from any plantings and wild currant arrays.

In the process of currant propagation at all stages, selection and testing of mother plants and seedlings for susceptibility to diseases and pests, purity and yield are mandatory. It should be remembered that the yield of currant plantations begins with seedlings.

The simplest and most widespread method of propagation of currants is the rooting of lignified cuttings. They are harvested from annual shoots, basal or first-order branching. The length of the cuttings is 15-20 cm, the thickness is not less than 0.7 cm. The cut is made with a sharp knife or secateurs above the kidney (1-1.5 cm higher). Roots are formed both under the kidney and in the internodes. The best time for harvesting and planting blackcurrant cuttings is September - early October, red - the first half of August, when the buds enter the dormant period. The first cuttings are varieties with a short growing season, later - varieties with a protracted growth.

Cuttings planted in autumn in early spring, before bud break, can begin to form roots, using spring moisture in a timely manner. If planting is postponed until spring, then cuttings of autumn harvesting give the best rooting. For safety, they are stacked in boxes and covered with snow. They are planted when the temperature reaches 7-9°C in the soil at a depth of 10-15 cm.

Rice. 1. Planting lignified currant cuttings: 1 - planting; 2 - rooted cutting

Currant cuttings are planted on a flat, weed-free, wind-protected area with fertile, sufficiently moist soil so that the cuttings freely enter it. Water the soil before planting. They are planted in an ordinary way - single-line according to the scheme 70x10-15 cm or two-line according to the scheme 70x20x5-10 cm. When harvesting, the cuttings are sorted by thickness into 2-3 groups and planted separately and at different distances, which ensures a more even planting material. For better rooting, the cuttings are planted obliquely and so that there is one kidney above the soil surface, and the second at the very surface (Fig. 1); compact the soil after planting near the cuttings. Then they are watered and necessarily mulched with humus with a layer of 4-5 cm. Mulching promotes better rooting, retains soil moisture and protects cuttings planted in autumn from spring bulging. In the future, loosening, weeding and top dressing are carried out, regular watering, preventing the soil from drying out. Black currant has a high ability to root, red root is somewhat worse, but when planted in August, the cuttings root well.

With proper care, good one-year-olds grow from the cuttings, which can be planted in a permanent place.

Cuttings take root better if they are kept in water for 1-2 days or in a 0.01% solution of heteroauxin for a day, lowering the lower ends of the cuttings into the solution. The output of standard seedlings increases (144% of the control) when rooting cuttings using polyethylene film as a mulch.

In order to increase the multiplication factor, currants are also propagated by single-bud lignified cuttings. Rooting is carried out in cold nurseries in early spring (April). A well-developed root system is formed in 30-40 days. Such plants are transplanted for growing according to the scheme 60x10-15 cm. In the spring they are cut off, leaving 2-3 buds. By autumn, seedlings of standard size grow. With well-organized care, the rooting rate of single-bud cuttings is at least 82-86%, the survival rate of plants in growing is 74-80%.

Reproduction by single-bud lignified cuttings determines the possibility of obtaining seedlings that are practically free from pests (glass cases, borers, and especially bud mites - a single bud affected by a tick does not germinate). A very high rooting rate (up to 100%) is obtained by planting single-bud cuttings stored at a temperature of 3.3 ° C and planted for rooting in a substrate of sphagnum moss and coarse sand (1: 1).

Currants black, red and golden are well propagated by green cuttings. Cuttings are called green because they use the growing green part of the shoot with leaves for rooting.

For rooting cuttings, a special substrate is prepared, which should retain water well and at the same time

Rice. 2. An annual seedling grown from a green cutting

provide drainage and good aeration. More often, pure river sand of medium size or a mixture of such sand with peat (1: 1 or 1: 2) is used. The substrate is poured over the peat-humus soil with a layer of 2.5-3 cm. The greatest fibrosis of the roots is formed in plants obtained using straw cutting instead of sod-humus soil. The latter dies in greenhouse conditions. In addition, seedlings grown from green cuttings always have a stronger fibrous root system (Fig. 2). But this method requires additional equipment. In a number of farms and experimental institutions in the Non-Chernozem Zone, green cuttings are carried out in greenhouses with automatic fogging installations. For this, cold nurseries and greenhouses with frames covered with a film, equipped with a simple irrigation device, are also used. Green cuttings can be planted for rooting in a nursery in a permanent place using portable shelter structures with a water spray device to create artificial fog, which excludes their transplantation for growing.

Unlike woody cuttings, which are harvested at the onset of a dormant period, green cuttings should be harvested during the shoot growth phase. Early cut herbaceous cuttings rot in greenhouses, cut late - root worse. The tops of the current growth are cut into cuttings at a time when the tissues of the shoot begin to coarsen, but lignification has not yet occurred. Such an escape retains flexibility and breaks only when it is sharply bent. Depending on the area and variety, green cuttings are carried out from June to August. The faster the shoots finish growing, the sooner they become woody and lose their ability to root. In the Non-Chernozem zone, red currants are first cut. The first cuttings are varieties that finish growth early, the last are late varieties. You can cut cuttings from one bush several times in the order of their readiness. They are harvested in the morning and kept moist in a shady place until planting.

The length of the cut cutting is 7.5-12.5 cm. Before planting, the lower cut is renewed, making it oblique under the bud, the plates of the lower leaves are removed. The largest upper leaves are shortened by half. All leaves can not be removed, since their presence contributes to root formation.

For grafting, you can use not only the tops of the shoots, but also the parts following them, although their rooting, as a rule, is much lower than that of the apical ones.

To increase the multiplication factor of currants, shortened cuttings with one internode and two buds are used. Cuttings with long internodes take root worse than those with short ones.

The rooting of cuttings increases if, before planting, they are kept in a solution of indolylbutyric acid (25-50 mg/l of water). Related by 50-100 pcs. the cuttings are lowered with their lower ends 2–3 cm into the solution for 12–24 hours at a temperature of 18–20 ° C in the shade, after which they are immediately planted according to the scheme 8 × 5 or 5 × 5 cm (400 pieces / m2). Cuttings are planted after rooting to a depth of 1.5-2.5 cm, the soil near the cuttings is compacted so that there are no voids.

The optimal illumination for rooting green cuttings is 1/3 of solar radiation on a clear day, or 10-15 thousand lux. An increase in solar radiation acts depressingly on photosynthesis and delays root formation. In these cases, shading is necessary. For fast and good rooting, it is necessary to maintain the normal turgor of green cuttings for a long time.

Before the mass formation of roots in the cuttings, it is necessary to maintain complete saturation of both the substrate and the air with moisture, and after mass rooting, waterlogging becomes already dangerous.

Roots appear depending on the temperature and humidity of the soil and air on the 7-14th day. Abundant roots

Rice. 3. Technique for cutting and planting a green cutting with two-year-old wood: 1 - a two-year-old branch (dashes show the places where the cuttings were cut), 2 - a cut green cutting ready for planting; 3 - method and depth of landing; 4 - one-year-old seedling.

are formed on the 4th week, after which the cuttings are accustomed to external conditions by airing and temporarily removing shelters. Prophylactic spraying against diseases is carried out with appropriate drugs.

In autumn, rooted blackcurrant cuttings are dug up and planted for growing. Red currants are best planted in the spring. After planting, the plants are watered and mulched. A week later, after the seedlings take root, pinch their top. With good care, seedlings suitable for planting in a permanent place grow in one year.

Good results were obtained when rooting green cuttings without a substrate in the holes of a wooden lattice laid on the sand. With this method, 5 crop rotations can be carried out during the growing season (from May 24 to July 10). The rooting rate of cuttings, depending on the variety, is 95-100%. The first roots appeared after 9 days. The method of rooting green cuttings without a substrate is simple and highly effective. It requires less cost for growing planting material. When transplanted into a school for growing, many rooted cuttings die. Reducing losses is possible by using peat briquettes for rooting, followed by planting in the field. Rooting of green cuttings is carried out in protected ground with a 4-5-fold turnover (cutting) during the growing season. Transfer to open ground rooted cuttings are produced in the early stages - on the 4-5th day after the start of root formation, which makes it possible to obtain from 1 m2 to 1.5-2.5 thousand rooted cuttings.

Green cuttings with part of last year's wood ("stand"), or combined cuttings, can be rooted directly in open ground. This method is simpler and cheaper. The technology of growing planting material from combined cuttings is that for cuttings they use shoots that grew last year (annual, or annual) with the growths of the current year formed on it. The length of the latter should reach 5-7 cm. This happens in the II-III decade of May or early June, that is, a month before green cuttings.

In the mother liquor, such annual branches are cut off at the base, leaving stumps with 2-3 buds. The cut branches are immediately transported to the planting site, all green growths are cut out with a piece of the stem that carries them (last year's wood), not more than 4 cm long. Then they are sorted according to the length of the green growth and planted on pre-prepared plots according to the marker in moist loose soil. All leaves on green shoots are preserved, removing the lower ones if they interfere. When planting, green growths should be directed vertically with their base deepened into the soil by 3-4 cm (Fig. 3). Watering after planting should be plentiful to wet the soil to the planting depth, including the location of the "stand". Prior to the formation of roots, abundant watering is necessary daily, better evening, after rooting - every other day, then less often - as needed. The landing pattern can be different: single-line, 2-3-line tapes, strip.

The rooting site should be warm, well protected from the winds.

Propagation of currants by horizontal layering

The technique of propagation of currants by horizontal layering is as follows. In the spring, before the flowering of plants, grooves 5 cm deep are dug around the tested bushes in the radial direction. or metal hooks. 5-7 shoots are taken from each bush. Pruning the tops promotes the germination of all buds on the shoots and the formation of strong annual growths. The shoots laid in the grooves do not fall asleep with earth, but are left temporarily open. When the vertically growing shoots on the bent branches reach a height of 10-15 cm, the grooves are covered with loose and moist soil mixed with humus or well-decomposed lowland peat, leaving only growing grassy tops on the surface. As the shoots grow, hilling is repeated, spending them 2-3 times per season. By autumn, the layers are well rooted. They are dug up, separated from the mother plant with secateurs and cut into pieces according to the number of grown shoots.

Propagation of currants by dividing the bush.

This method is used in case of an acute shortage of planting material or when plantings are transferred to a new location. For reproduction, the bush is dug up, all the old branches are cut out inside it, without touching the young ones with strong growths, and the bush is divided into parts along the stems that have their own roots. At the same time, the old roots are completely removed, and the young ones are pruned. The remaining branches are also cut, leaving stumps 20 cm high.

Black currant is one of the most popular berry crops. The reason for this popularity is due to the fact that this plant does not require careful attention. Despite the fact that blackcurrant is very often subjected to various ailments, with a minimum of care after planting, this berry is able to produce a good harvest.

Also not to be noted beneficial features berries that have a beneficial effect on the human body. The varieties of this berry are very diverse, therefore, each owner will be able to choose for himself the option that best suits his taste.

The procedure for planting blackcurrants in open ground

Planting blackcurrants is a quick and easy process. Even an inexperienced gardener is able to cope with it. In this case, it is very important to properly prepare the soil.

Preparatory activities

First, the owner needs to prepare a site for planting a crop. The best option would be a place that has excellent illumination, protection from the wind and normal moisture. The main thing is that the earth is loamy, rich in organic components. If the earth in the garden contains high acidity, then it is necessary to add materials containing calcium to it. It can be chalk and dolomite flour.

No matter what type of soil you have on your site, fertilize the soil before planting bushes. Use compost or humus in the amount of 18-10 kg per 1 m2. Still need superphosphate and calcium chloride. The subcortex should be applied to the depth of planting the roots. This will be approximately 30-35 cm. Planting holes should be prepared 2-3 weeks before the berry crop is sent to the ground. Then they will be able to settle down. The size of the hole should be 40 cm. Keep a distance of at least 1-1.4 m between the holes.

On the video - blackcurrant: planting and care:

Process

You can plant a crop both in spring and autumn. Gardeners try to do this procedure in the second half of September - early October. If you plant bushes in the spring, then for the plant this can cause severe stress. To avoid this, it is worth planting in early spring, while there are no buds on the bushes. Pour a bucket of compost, ½ kg of superphosphate into the holes dug in advance and mix everything with loosened soil. Lay another layer of earth on top, 10 cm thick. Thoroughly tamp, and plant seedlings on top with a slight slope to the south.

Before planting, the currant root system must be lowered into water for a couple of hours. Then dip into the liquid clay mixture. Deepen the root neck into the hole to a depth of 5-6 cm. Subject to this condition, it is possible to obtain additional roots, and the bush itself will become thick and lush.

After the pit has been filled up, you need to carefully compact it, carefully irrigate and mulch with humus. Cut off all shoots on the bush, leaving only two buds above the ground. Such measures are radical, but thanks to this, the plant is able to survive the winter frosts and develop a powerful root system.

The video tells about the planting, care and reproduction of blackcurrant:

Growing and care in spring

Each season has its own blackcurrant care plan. In the spring, this care is based on the following:

1. Remove the weight of the kidneys that have been infested with the mite. If the lesion is inflicted on most of the kidneys, then it is worth cutting the shoots on the bush to the base.
2. Dig the bush shallowly, mulch the soil around it with manure or humus.
3. Thoroughly water the plant at the time of its growth and flowering.
4. Remove all weeds on the site, loosen the soil under the bushes. The depth of loosening should be 6-8 cm, and such activities should be performed no more than 2-3 times a week. Using mulch will help avoid frequent loosening.
5. Perform sanitary pruning of the bush after wintering.
6. In early spring, take preventive measures aimed at protecting the bush from pests and ailments.
7. At the time of flowering, perform a thorough inspection of the flowers. If terry inflorescences were found, then they should be removed. At mass defeat bush by this process, it should be uprooted. Otherwise, terry will be able to move to other bushes.
8. Fertilize with nitrogen fertilizers.

On the video - blackcurrant care:

autumn care

After the crop has been harvested, the crop needs careful watering and loosening the land. At the end of autumn, fertilize using organic and mineral fertilizers. Carry out sanitary and formative pruning of the crop.

In autumn, it is necessary to perform planting and propagation of the plant. When autumn is dry, it is worthwhile to carry out thorough winter watering and preventive treatment from diseases and pests.

Bush processing

Blackcurrant is a plant that is very often influenced by pests and diseases. Without preventive measures, it is impossible to get the maximum yield. To do this, you need to choose the right composition for spraying the bushes. When the kidneys swell, it is necessary to treat the culture with a one percent solution of carboros, copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid.

For processing, you can use nitrafen. At the same time, it is worth spraying not only the bushes, but also the soil. At the end of the growing season, you need to collect the weight of the fallen leaves and carry them away from the site. The reason is that pests most often live in them.

On the video care for blackcurrants in early spring:

Irrigation

During a snowy winter, a blackcurrant bush will not require frequent and abundant watering. The soil will already be saturated with melt water. If there was no precipitation in the form of snow, then the earth contains a small amount of moisture. In this case, regular watering is required.

When the ovary is formed and the berries are poured, there is dry heat, then the bushes require moistening the earth with warm water. You need to do this once every 5 days. For high-quality moistening of the earth, it is necessary that it gets wet to a depth of 30-40 cm. The consumption of liquid for irrigation of 1 m2 will be 20-30 liters.

Pour water under the bush. Kali liquid should not fall on the leaves and fruits. A great option is to make circular grooves. Their depth will be 10-15 cm. The distance from the crown projection is 30-40 cm. At the end of the growing season and under the condition of a dry autumn, it is necessary to irrigate the bushes in winter. Thanks to him, it is possible to saturate the root system with moisture until the end of the winter period.

top dressing

After you planted the bushes, they received the necessary dose of top dressing. This will last for 2 years. After the time comes when you have to regularly feed the bushes with fertilizers. In early spring, the crop requires the use of nitrogen fertilizers. If we are talking about two-year-old young bushes, then 40-50 g of urea will be enough for their nutrition. A four-year-old plant will need two top dressings of 15-20 g each.

In autumn, you have to “feed” the soil like this organic fertilizer like chicken manure, manure or compost. The presented top dressing is applied under each bush in the amount of 4-6 kg. You can use 50 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. The compositions shown are required.

reproduction

Reproduction of blackcurrant can occur by cuttings and layering. Each of the presented options has its own characteristics.

layering

This breeding method should be carried out at the beginning or end of the season. Lay young flexible branches without signs of disease in prepared trenches. In this case, several kidneys should be left on the surface. Pinch with small wooden slingshots, and then cover with earth. After the slingshot should not be removed, because after a few years it will fall off on its own. In this case, the layering will already take root on its own and form its root system.

Blackcurrant is a unique berry that is so actively used in cooking. Its unique properties allow you to cope with various viral diseases. Growing this crop at home does not involve anything difficult. It is enough to take a responsible approach to the process and perform quality care.

Magnificent blackcurrant harvest thanks to proper fit and care

Currant - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn. Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before the sap flow begins and the buds bloom, the soil may not have time to warm up enough and the plant will die.

For currants, a sunny place is chosen, protected from the wind with well-drained, non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5). Fertile light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the earth, up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour is added per 1 sq. m.

Currants are propagated using cuttings or dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. The cultivation of blackcurrant will be successful if you choose two-year-old seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long, they take root best. Consider how the planting of currants is carried out in stages.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, weed rhizomes are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the site is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug up to a depth of 40 cm. The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planting in rows - up to 3 m.

Three-quarters of the hole is covered with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

planting black currant

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of 5 cm. This contributes to the growth of basal buds and the further development of a powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, then the bush will form a single stem.

Planting currants is completed by watering 5 liters of water per hole and another 5 liters per circular hole around it. After watering, loosening of the soil is necessary: ​​up to 8 cm deep - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

After completing the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. Cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, poured with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with a film or plastic container for rooting and engraftment. Pruning encourages vigorous plant growth.

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant blackcurrants in the summer. Most often, this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This landing is also called seating or simply breeding. It is carried out after fruiting is completed: for early varieties - in July, and for late ones - in the middle and at the end of August.

Blackcurrant: cultivation and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to ensure proper care for blackcurrants throughout the growing season.

Spring blackcurrant care

Before the buds appear, all old, dried or diseased branches are cut to a healthy stem, the wounds are covered with garden pitch. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. The soil after top dressing is dug up and watered.

At the time of formation of the ovary until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. Do this in the evening, using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius), under the root. For irrigation, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Contact with water on the leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

Mulching is desirable to improve soil moisture resistance. You can use peat, straw or newspapers. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Summer currant care

In the first half of June, organic top dressing should be carried out: up to 15 kg of humus per 1 bush, or liquid top dressing (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When there is no rain for a long time, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water per week is sufficient. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of berries, and is done once every 5 days.

Currant care in June also includes pinching the tops of young stems by 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. Pinching dates are postponed for more late deadline to delay the fruiting of the shrub.

During fruit ripening, foliar top dressing is applied: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of iron sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately, and then mix them together in a 10 liter bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy windless day.

Harvesting of berries must be done by the piece, and not plucked in a bunch. So there is less chance of damaging the plant. Watering and fertilizing are completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Caring for currant bushes in autumn

Having completed the harvest, starting from mid-August and throughout September, watering is done once a week, with soil loosening to a depth of 5 cm. In a dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, it is necessary to add organics (4-6 kg of bird droppings), or feed them with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, when fertilizing, 200 g of wood ash is added. After the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting for the next year.

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots. different years life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

To protect the plant from diseases, preventive measures are used. In the spring, before the awakening of the kidneys, the bushes are watered hot water temperature plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment from pests and diseases. They also carry out timely sanitary pruning of bushes to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to destroy pests.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, additional treatment with fungicides is necessary: ​​Alirin-B, Gamair, Forecast, Topaz, Glycoladin - from rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of a kidney mite on a currant in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper care of blackcurrants includes preparation for winter. Weed the soil under the bushes and remove the fallen leaves.

After the onset of the first frost, the bush is pulled up in a spiral upwards with a rope, clamping it with a clothespin at the top. The earth is covered with mulch. After a large amount of precipitation has fallen at the base of the bush, a snow cushion 10 cm high is made, and then the bush is completely covered with snow.

Outcome

Growing currants on the site will bring only pleasure, as the culture is not demanding and bears excellent fruit. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant in order to always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then the blackcurrant, which is cared for in accordance with all the rules, will thank you with a magnificent harvest and large berries.

Blackcurrant is a winter-hardy berry crop. Frost resistance depends on the origin of the variety, the growing area and the level of agricultural technology. New varieties bred with the participation of Siberian currant and wild grouse have higher winter hardiness.

Growing temperature

At low temperatures, annual growths are most often damaged. Their buds and fruits freeze.

• During the flowering period, currants suffer greatly from low temperatures. Its vegetation begins at 6°C, in some varieties - at 2°C, optimum temperature for growth - 18-20 ° С.
• In hotter weather, currant growth slows down.

In the arid southern regions, this crop suffers from heat and dry air, the amount of pulp in its berries decreases, and the skin becomes dense.

In extreme heat, blackcurrants sometimes shed their leaves.

Lighting

• Currant grows well and bears fruit with sufficient light. In a community with woody plants, its yield is reduced.
• Varieties with a compact bush shape must be thinned out in a timely manner, otherwise the crop will be only on the periphery, and in the center all fruit formations will die off.
• In the shade, black currants produce a weak crop and are more damaged by diseases and pests.

Moisture

Blackcurrant is a moisture-loving plant. This is due to the conditions of its formation in the wild along the banks of rivers, streams and in marshy forests.

The high requirement for moisture is also due to the fact that the root system of this culture does not lie deep. It is also demanding on air humidity.

Despite the fact that blackcurrant is moisture-loving, it grows poorly in areas with stagnant spring flood waters or summer heavy rains, the bushes are covered with lichens, quickly grow old, and stop growing.

Under this culture, it is necessary to allocate moisture-intensive drained areas.

Blackcurrant is demanding on nutrients, therefore it needs fertile soil rich in fertilizers. The root system of this culture lies mainly in the upper layers of the soil, but its power increases significantly with deep pre-planting treatment site.

• Light soils without organic fertilizers are not suitable for this crop.
• Podzolized, saline and acidic soils are not suitable for blackcurrants.
• Best suited for currants clay soils, but others can be used if they are well fertilized and hydrated.

Blackcurrant is best cultivated in loose fertile soils with an optimal acidity of 6-6.5 pH. It reacts to fertilizers more than other berry crops.

Increasing the dose of nitrogen increases berry size and yield. With its deficiency, the leaves become smaller, the growth of shoots is delayed, small leaves become red in early August.

• Nitrogen organic fertilizer it is desirable to combine with mineral nitrogen.
• potash fertilizers also have a strong influence on the yield of blackcurrant. Potassium affects the sugar content of berries. With its deficiency, a yellow border forms in the form of a burn along the edges of the leaves. Potassium chloride can cause burns, so it is better to use potassium sulfate.
• Phosphate fertilizers are also important for this culture. With their lack, the fruits become smaller, the yield decreases, the leaves are affected by spotting. To obtain a high yield of blackcurrant, it is necessary to apply a lot of organic fertilizers in any form.

Interesting on the topic

Planting and caring for blackcurrants require certain knowledge and skills. To get a rich harvest, it is important to follow all the recommendations for planting and caring for young blackcurrant seedlings as much as possible.

Blackcurrant bushes are planted in spring or autumn. In the spring, the process is carried out before the juice begins to move in the plant and the buds open. In autumn, the crop is planted in the ground in September or October. Autumn is considered the ideal time for planting currants, because a plant planted at this time of the year actively grows in spring.

Soil selection

The culture is considered unpretentious in terms of soil and a certain area in the garden. It will thrive in full sun, shade, and moist soils (they shouldn't be waterlogged).

However, it is better to choose the optimally comfortable place for the shrub in order to get more yield.

Choose:

1. Fertile lands.
2. Place sheltered from the wind.
3. A place with enough space, but maybe a little dark.
4. Allowed to land on a hill.
5. Requires land with an acidity level of 6 - 6.5 pH.
6. It is not recommended to select too wet soils, where ground water pass close to the surface.
7. You can plant a culture separately from other plants, or you can allocate a place for it between the rows.

How to choose seedlings?

When buying, pay attention to the root system. It should be powerful and strong, with two or three main branches, the length of which reaches 25 centimeters.

There should be no dry and diseased roots with damage. Quality seedlings have fresh, wrinkle-free bark. Pinch off some bark: if there is a green trunk under it, then the seedling is alive, and if the trunk is brown, you are offered a dead plant.

Landing instructions

The preparatory work and the landing process itself include the following steps:

1. Dig holes measuring 40 by 40 centimeters at a distance of about a meter from each other.
2. Add a bucket of humus, 150 grams of superphosphate, 300 grams of wood ash and limestone to the pit.
3. Mix all the fertilizers with the soil and water.
4. Lower the seedling into the prepared hole, tilting it at an angle of forty-five degrees.
5. Straighten out the roots.
6. Cover the root system with an earthen mixture, making sure that all voids are filled.
7. Fill the top of the hole with plain earth.
8. Water the planting and mulch.

spring care

The awakening of blackcurrants from hibernation occurs very early, so the gardener must catch the time before the buds swell in order to get rid of damaged and diseased branches, as well as remove the buds injured by the bud mite.

In spring, in addition to sanitary pruning, pruning is performed, with the help of which the bush is given the necessary shape. If hilling was carried out before winter, now you need to remove the soil from the trunk circle.

The soil is carefully dug up and covered with mulch with a layer of 5 - 10 centimeters. As a mulch, you can use humus or manure, which is laid out around the plant, maintaining a distance of 20 centimeters from the branches of the shrub. Germinating weeds are promptly removed.

Blackcurrant belongs to moisture-loving crops, so it must be watered regularly, especially in the case of a snowless winter and a dry spring without precipitation. After watering, it is convenient to immediately weed and loosen the soil. Loosening is carried out about two to three times a week, but mulched soil can be loosened less often.

Since the currant wakes up early, it is threatened by return spring frosts. Gardeners protect the crop from a sudden change in temperature with a film of polyethylene.

After the start of flowering, the bush is carefully examined for the subsequent removal of branches that were affected by doubleness (the flowers changed shape: instead of bell-shaped, they became separate-petal). Install supports if the shrub clearly needs them.

summer care

Summer care includes timely watering, followed by loosening and weeding. At this time, organic fertilizers are applied under the root.

You can resort to spraying the leaves with special foliar fertilizers: currants respond well to such top dressing. In different containers, 3 grams of boric acid, 5 grams of potassium permanganate and 40 grams of copper sulfate are diluted in water.

Then all the components are mixed together in 10 liters of water and poured into a spray bottle, with which the bushes are carefully sprayed. The procedure is carried out in the morning or in the evening, processing the leaves well on both sides.

If you notice traces of moth moths on the currant, immediately destroy its nests. Be prepared for the invasion of sawflies, from which they are saved by treatment with special preparations, for example, Actellik or Karbofos.

In July and August, it is time to harvest the juicy harvest. The technology for harvesting black currants differs from the principles for harvesting red berries.

The fruits of blackcurrant do not ripen at the same time, so the crop is harvested selectively, and not in whole brushes. Choose a container carefully. Wide baskets and baskets with a shallow depth are preferred so that the berries do not crumple under their own weight. After harvesting, the bushes are watered abundantly, and after the soil has dried, they are carefully loosened.

autumn care

In September or October, currants are fed with fertilizers of a mineral or organic nature, then watered abundantly, and then dug up so that the fertilizers enter the soil. Autumn time involves the implementation of sanitary pruning.

Remove branches that thicken the bush. They will serve as excellent planting material, which can be rooted in the fall. At this time, layering, dug in the spring, is planted on a permanent plot.

If there is little rainfall in the fall, carry out abundant watering before the onset of winter so that the plant can stock up on life-giving moisture.

Irrigation Features

Blackcurrant grows well in loose soil, which acquires such a structure with abundant watering, combined with loosening. If the shrub receives an insufficient amount of moisture, shoots and branches stop growing, the crop shrinks and crumbles.

Of great importance is watering at the beginning of summer, when the bush is actively growing and forming ovaries. During the period of the appearance of fruits, that is, in June and July, great attention should be paid to watering. The soil should be moistened by about 35 - 45 centimeters, that is, to the entire depth of the root system. Approximately 20-30 liters of water are consumed per square meter of land.

Around the bush at a distance of 30 - 40 centimeters from the base, peculiar grooves are dug to a depth of 10 - 15 centimeters. If the currants are planted in rows, furrows can be made along the row spacing.

Water is poured into these grooves and beards during irrigation. After the soil has dried, it is loosened. The mulched area has to be loosened, weeded and watered much less frequently.

The nuances of feeding

In the planting season, if the hole has been prepared in accordance with all the rules, top dressing is not required. Starting from the second year of growth, it is necessary to add 40-50 grams of urea under each bush.

You can treat the bushes themselves with a solution of 7% concentration of urea, but only before the juices begin to move through the plant. Mature bushes that are more than four years old are fertilized with less urea. From 25 to 40 grams of urea is added under each bush, distributing this volume into two doses.

In the autumn, they resort to the use of organic fertilizers, using 10-15 kilograms of manure, compost or bird droppings per crop. From fertilizers of a mineral nature, 10-20 grams of potassium sulfate and 50 grams of superphosphate are spent on each plant.

If the site was mulched with organic fertilizer in the spring, this type of fertilizer can be neglected in the fall. In the case when currants were fed with humus in the fall, nitrogen fertilizer is passed in the spring.

How to prune blackcurrant?

Newly planted plants are shortened so that no more than two or three buds remain on each branch. On a culture that has been growing for the second year, three to five of the strongest and most powerful shoots should remain, which in the future will form the skeleton of a shrub. The remaining small and weak branches are cut off.

In the middle of the growing season, that is, in the summer, they pinch exactly two buds. This is necessary so that new shoots actively grow and fruit branches appear. In three-year and four-year-old currant bushes, three to six of the strongest branches are left, the rest are removed.

At the shoots that grew last year, pinch the tops. When the fourth year of the life of the currant culture comes to an end, the bush is considered an adult and fully formed. After the fifth year, the plant needs anti-aging pruning, which consists in cutting out the oldest shoots.

If in the spring you have carried out all the necessary pruning, in the fall you only have to remove the damaged and diseased branches, that is, to carry out pruning for sanitary and thinning purposes.

If in the spring it was not possible to carry out all the activities, prune according to the above scheme in the fall, when the currant loses all the leaves. Dried branches are allowed to be removed at any time of the year, but it is recommended to pinch the tops in the middle of summer. For pruning use sterile secateurs, garden knives or brush cutters.

reproduction

You can propagate the culture in several ways: cuttings, layering and dividing the bush. With the help of seeds, it is also possible to grow a new bush, but there is no guarantee that it will inherit all the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. In addition, this method takes much more time than those listed above.

cuttings

Cuttings are most often used to obtain a new currant bush. For the manufacture of cuttings, shoots of the first year of life, growing at the very roots, are suitable. Cuttings are cut from 15 to 20 centimeters long, making sure that the thickness of the branches is at least 7 millimeters.

In the same autumn, the cuttings are placed in the ground. If during this period it is not possible to find a new place for future young plants, planting can be postponed until spring.

The tips of the planting material should be dipped in garden var, the cuttings should be tied together, put in moistened paper and plastic wrap, and then stored in the refrigerator or buried in the snow.

In spring, cuttings are planted in open ground using the same technology that applies to adult currants. A polyethylene greenhouse is being built above them and rooting is waiting. Cuttings that have already had roots are watered regularly, preventing the soil from drying out. As soon as they have one or two shoots, the cuttings are moved to a permanent place.

layering

The propagation method using layering is considered the simplest and most effective, since the gardener manages to obtain seedlings with a strong root system in just a year.

In early spring, dig a hole 10 centimeters deep next to the currant bush. On the side of the bush, select a powerful healthy branch that is already two years old, lower it to the ground and place the middle of the branch in a hole, making sure that 20-30 centimeters of the shoot remain above the surface.

To prevent the shoot from crawling out of the ground, fix it with a wire and cover it with soil. The cuttings need to be watered regularly, then by the fall it will have a developed root system and two thick branches. Such a strong young plant can be separated from an adult bush and planted in a new place.

The division of the bush

The division of the bush is carried out in the spring or autumn, when they are going to transplant an adult specimen. The bush is removed from the ground and, using a sterile ax, is divided into several parts. Each delenka should have a developed and powerful root system and strong shoots.

The cut sites are treated with charcoal, young shoots are shortened by 30 centimeters, and diseased and damaged roots are removed. Delenki are planted in the ground and watered abundantly. Harvest from such young plants can be obtained after a year.

Blackcurrant is considered a relatively unpretentious plant, so with a minimum amount of effort, you can get a rich harvest of sweet and healthy berries.