Rovnitel for a floor under porcelain tile. Tile Leveling System

In the process of some repair work, preliminary surface preparation is required for coating with a facing material. Such types of work are necessary if the base for cladding is defective. In the article we will tell you how to level the floor under the tiles, and what materials to use in the process.

Does it need to be leveled?

In the process of repair work, the technologies for performing certain stages are often violated, the rules are not followed. It is good if such actions pass without consequences, but there are moments that cannot be ignored.

For example, when laying the coating on the floor, the surface is not subjected to pre-treatment. Of course, in this way, you can significantly save on additional materials and repair time. But, if the rules are not followed during facing work, the following results can be achieved:

  • with poor adhesion of the tile to the base of the floor, the risk of peeling of the facing material during operation increases;
  • if there are differences in height, they will become even more noticeable. Inconsistencies in the seams will be visible, gaps between the tiles will be noticeable, moreover, they will be of different sizes;
  • tile material will not withstand the load due to a decrease in strength;
  • if you lay out a tile with a level on an untreated floor, then the consumption of adhesive composition will noticeably increase.

To all the shortcomings listed, it remains to add that the appearance of such a coating will not be very attractive. The provided examples are enough to understand whether it is necessary to level the floor under the tiles. There should be no doubt about this issue, of course, there should be. The main thing is to decide on additional materials and the method of processing the base for cladding.

floor leveling techniques

Leveling the floor under the tiles with your own hands can be done in the following ways:

  • use a mixture of cement and sand by completing the screed;
  • apply the dry screed technique;
  • apply adhesive for tiles;
  • use a leveling solution.

Any of these methods will be a good solution to the problem if it is necessary to level the floor surface before facing.

Leveling the concrete floor

Leveling the concrete floor under the tiles can be done using the screed technique. A cement-sand screed is also used for wooden and moisture-resistant bases for facing.

The leveling of the surface is carried out by a minimum of 3 cm. Floor preparation with leveling before facing is as follows:

  1. first, the surface is cleaned of dirt, dust, and degreased;
  2. a clean, concrete base is treated with a primer;
  3. a cement-sand screed solution is prepared as follows: M500 cement and sifted sand are taken (1: 3 ratio), and diluted in 1 liter of water (per 1 kg of cement). The components are mixed with a drill with a special nozzle or a mixer until a homogeneous composition is obtained;
  4. the finished solution is poured according to the level of pre-established marks (beacons), then leveled with a rule;
  5. after the mixture has dried, the beacons must be removed, and the solution should also be poured into the space formed after them;
  6. the work performed is checked with a level, then covered with polyethylene.

It will take about two weeks or a month to level the concrete floor under the tiles. The time interval includes the repair work itself, and the interval of working moments is in the range from 2 weeks to a month. During this time, the cement screed will dry. In the process of drying, it is necessary to periodically moisten the coating with a roller. This is done to evenly dry the coating under the cladding.

Filling the floor under the tiles with a cement screed gives the expected result. The disadvantages of the method include the long time required for the complete drying of the mixture to level the surface.

Bathroom floor leveling

Regardless of which flooring is chosen for the floor in the bathroom, it is necessary to perform surface preparation, including leveling. You can level the floor under the tiles in the bathroom using the following materials:

  • mixtures based on cement;
  • using plaster compositions.

The most commonly used solutions are cement-based. The screed material is sold in paper bags with a polyethylene backing that protects against moisture. When buying dry mixes, you need to pay attention to the expiration dates. It is undesirable to use expired dry materials.

Leveling the floor in the bathroom under the tiles is carried out using the following types of mixtures:

  • leveling compounds;
  • self-levelling compounds, with which the work is much easier. It turns out, the so-called self-leveling floor. Self-levelling compounds are also of two types: to create a rough or finish coating.
  • Work on leveling the floor covering for cladding is carried out in the following steps:
  • the old coating is removed, the surface is thoroughly cleaned;
  • a layer of waterproofing is laid;
  • screed is installed.

Rough coating for cladding is performed in different ways, and they depend on the type of previous coating. So, the old tile is removed with a perforator. If, after removing the old coating, cracks and crevices are found, then they must be repaired using an adhesive for tiles.

Before leveling the floor under the tiles, you need to think about waterproofing. Roll materials can be laid, or coating materials can be used. Coating mixtures are applied with a roller on the floor, a brush is used in hard-to-reach places. Liquid waterproofing is applied in two layers.

Beacons are installed in front of the screed:

  1. the initial mark is placed from the floor slab, where 1 meter is measured in one of the corners;
  2. using a level along the perimeter, marking lines are drawn, starting from the starting point;
  3. the lowest mark will be in the place where the distance from the plate to the line is minimal. It is through this mark that the zero level line is drawn. Further, the zero line is transferred so that it is 3 cm higher than the highest mark;
  4. beacons are placed in parallel, and the width between the rows should not be more than the length of the rule.

Filling for alignment is done like this:

  1. the finished solution is poured onto the surface in such a way as to fill the space up to the exposed beacons;
  2. the filled solution is leveled by the rule;
  3. so that the screed dries faster, you need to exclude drafts in the room.

To achieve a perfectly flat surface, you need to wait for the first layer of screed to dry completely, and then apply a self-leveling compound.

Using tile adhesive for leveling

When leveling the flooring, a significant rise in the floor level is not always necessary. Or you just need to correct an already completed screed. In these cases, it is recommended to use tile adhesive under the tiles to level the floor.

Of course, it is not worth doing a whole screed of tile adhesive, but the material is able to cope with the following problems:

  • eliminate small pits and grooves;
  • will become an indispensable material in case of damage to the concrete base (peeling of the material, dusting);
  • if you need a screed for tiles with a small thickness, but with maximum grip.

Tile adhesive when leveling the floor surface has the following advantages:

  • budget cost;
  • good adhesion characteristics;
  • dries quickly;
  • plastic structure;
  • ease of use;
  • the material does not shrink after application.

To mount a flat surface with tile adhesive, two methods are used: embedding on tiles and pouring on beacons.

Simultaneous leveling and laying tiles

Leveling the floor surface is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the cladding. You need to do the following:

  1. the work surface is being prepared;
  2. the highest and lowest point is marked (a level is used);
  3. a beacon is set between the high and low marks, and tile laying starts from the highest mark;
  4. then a solution is prepared to level the surface;
  5. tile adhesive is applied in a thick layer to evenly cover the subfloor;
  6. then the first cladding element with level control with a specially fixed clamp is laid.

The adhesive composition dries quickly, but before walking on the floor, it is advisable to withstand two days.

After the composition has completely dried, you need to remove the guides, then grout the seams.

Screed based on tile adhesive

You can level the floors for tiles using the technique of pouring the base with a tile composition. This leveling option is used if it is necessary to fill a small thickness, or to correct the old coating of the floor base, and close up small defects.

The work is done as follows:

  1. as in all previous cases, the work surface is first prepared;
  2. first, a small amount of adhesive is applied and left to dry completely;
  3. glue is applied directly between the old marks (beacons), then the solution is pulled by the rule. Important: at the location of the old beacons, the adhesive layer should be practically zero, and in the middle of the surface, the composition layer depends on the height difference.

You can use the floor covering with a screed after two days.

Leveling with a dry screed

You can level the floor surface under the facing material using the dry screed method. The method has the following advantages:

  • a small amount of time is required to complete the work;
  • budget price;
  • in comparison with a liquid screed, this is a relatively clean method;
  • low weight of the structure;
  • the method does not require special skills, relatively easy installation;
  • you can display communications within the coverage.

The work is done as follows:

  1. the surface is being prepared;
  2. installation of waterproofing (polyethylene); along the wall perimeter and skirting boards with a dumping tape with film capture;
  3. laying a layer of expanded clay (3 cm) or slag;
  4. the layer is leveled with a rule, then it is compacted;
  5. application of the concrete mix.

It is necessary to wait for the concrete-contact composition to dry. Then, if necessary, the screed is poured in a thin layer, and the tiles are laid.

You can watch the detailed videos below on how to level the floor under the tiles in various ways. Knowing how to prepare the flooring for further lining, and performing the phased work, you can achieve the perfect flooring. Tiles laid on a flat surface will not flake, and the cladding will not require unexpected repairs.

The arrangement of an even screed is one of the most important construction and repair processes, because the aesthetic appearance and durability of the decorative flooring depend on the quality of the base. The need for leveling horizontal coatings arises not only during the construction of new or reconstruction of old buildings, but also when replacing the old flooring in the process of performing cosmetic repairs.

To level horizontal bases in residential, commercial or industrial premises, you need to buy a leveler for the floor. The price of the leveler is slightly higher than that of standard cement-sand floor mixes, but the finished solution has a higher plasticity, spreads better and can be leveled.

The use of ready-made dry mixes - levelers to eliminate defects in the floor and other horizontal surfaces allows you to optimize the time of work, since you do not need to independently calculate the proportions of the components. To obtain high-quality leveled bases, it is necessary to follow the technology for preparing the solution specified in the manufacturer's instructions.

Types of levelers for arranging bases for finishing flooring

The assortment of LITOKOL includes two types of levelers for horizontal bases - based on cement and gypsum binders. Cement-based levelers are used for both indoor and outdoor work, while gypsum binder-based levelers are used only indoors.

Using LITOKOL levelers, you can level horizontal bases for subsequent laying of any kind of decorative flooring - ceramic tiles, ceramic granite and natural stone slabs, ceramic and glass mosaics, parquet boards, parquet, laminate, linoleum, carpet and others. Also, the floor leveler can be used as a base for bulk mixtures, for arranging screeds for electric and water heated floors.

The LITOKOL cement leveler for pouring the floor has a high level of adhesion, is resistant to the negative effects of moisture and sudden temperature changes. Cement leveler is able to eliminate fairly serious floor defects - deep potholes, chips, cracks, as well as significant elevation changes. It is successfully used for leveling horizontal surfaces both indoors and outdoors, while the layer thickness in one pass should be from 2 to 8 cm. Using a cement leveler, you will get a high-strength coating that is resistant to compressive and bending deformations.

To eliminate small cracks and uneven floors, you can buy a quick-hardening LITOKOL leveler based on gypsum components. The layer of gypsum leveler can be 0.3-1 cm. Gypsum-based floor leveler is used only indoors, it can be applied both manually and by machine. Such a coating quickly gains strength - the maturation period for cement screeds is 28 days.

What is the easiest method of dealing with uneven surfaces, how to learn how to properly and evenly lay tiles or tiles, which leveling systems have been tested in practice - all this is in the material below.

SVP is arguably the best way to precisely lay tiles, it is an innovative laying pattern for both walls and floors. This technique allows you not to use the help of professional tilers, but to carry out the procedure yourself. It is no secret that these services are very expensive, so you have to look for an alternative. If you listen to reviews, then there are still other ways of leveling, for example, a Knauf or Leroy dry floor, which can even out almost all differences.

The so-called dry screed gives the effect of self-leveling and can lie on various coatings:

  • Laminate;
  • Carpet;
  • Parquet;
  • Tiles, etc.

But this option cannot be called budget at all, and this is a minus. SVP is better than professional work, the end result will definitely please, without having a lot of experience, it is possible to get a decent result.

As part of the SVP system there are 2 elements - a clamp and a wedge.

Unlike a wedge, which can be reused many times, a material such as a clamp is disposable and does not require reuse. According to its pricing policy, the materials are very affordable and not burdensome.

How to use tile wedges

In addition to being reusable, this device also has a multitasking function. Their cost is not expensive, but the functionality is surprising. With the help of wedges, the most parallel rows of tiles are achieved, which means that even and neat seams will be obtained. The leveler is used in the most extraordinary places for laying. They can also help in laying out the lower “cut” tile row.

The device allows you to choose the required thickness and get an even seam of the upper part of the product.

Wedges are universal assistants during wall cladding with artificial stone. In cases where there is a significant difference in the size of the tiles, wedges are inserted into the seam to get a straight line. There are many times when plastic products help out in terms of design and functionality, and here they have carved their niche in the SPV system. But, like any system, there are both positive and negative sides. They should be considered in more detail.

Advantages:

  • Setting the optimal level in the plane, which guarantees the duration of the operation of the coating and the speed of the process;
  • Obtaining identical tile joints due to the exact calculation of the distance between the tiles;
  • Distribution of adhesive, with which it is possible to eliminate surface level imperfections by applying the right amount of substance;
  • No subsidence of tiles;
  • Eliminate position distortion with clamps.

The disadvantages of the system are the difficulty in cleaning the seams and the removal and installation of fasteners takes time. An obvious fact in favor of the effectiveness of the technology is a weighty number of positive arguments and fast laying of tiles.

Do-it-yourself tile leveling system in practice

Following certain instructions, you can achieve good results when laying tiles or floors. Certain skills are not required, but it is still worth following a number of practical rules and following safety precautions.

Consider the system step by step in action:

  1. The first step is to prepare the glue according to the instructions. You should not deviate from the proposed recommendation, do it strictly according to proportions.
  2. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or floor in the right volume and the required thickness.
  3. Initially, it is necessary to substitute a clip (clamps, clothespins, wedges or a home-made structure) in the amount of 2 pieces under the first glued tile on both sides, retreating in this case from the edge of approximately 0.5-1 cm.
  4. In the same way, place another tile and insert a wedge so that it is located between the top and bottom of the clamp. Fix wedge.
  5. The leveling function itself is carried out by means of a snug fit of the part of the wedge from below to the tiles.
  6. Similarly, you need to "scatter" the wedges along the joints at the location of the clamps.
  7. After the adhesive solution has completely dried, the wedges must be removed. To do this, use a hammer and strike the clamps in their side. In this case, the clamp element from below will remain.

Such a system is not new and will work well if the optimum temperature regime is observed from +10 ᵒС. In essence, the fastening elements, as if connecting the surface, intertwine the tiles together. Thus, a plane comes out without irregularities, becomes an ideal surface. Obviously, the use of this do-it-yourself styling system serves to facilitate the task of deriving a quality level.

Algorithm of actions in the tile laying system

There is a special DSL (DSL) system for laying tiles, which facilitates the process of creating a floor covering and simplifies installation. The technique is an excellent tool that prevents the possible splitting of tiles or the formation of bumps and various other imperfections in the coating.

The DSL is presented as a set of important tools:

  • caps;
  • Meters;
  • Ribbons;
  • wedges;
  • Clips;
  • Clamps and more.

In addition, you can make your own and such a device as a clamp. It is done very simply. For this, the presence of aluminum wire is necessary, a rectangle should be made from it. At the bend points, the material is slightly trimmed so that it can be easily bent in relation to size. You need to bite at the base for easy removal later, after the glue dries.

The support at the base is a small strip of any material, such as metal. At the top, the wire is twisted, forming the shape of a rectangle. A tile wedge can also serve as a clamp, supplemented with a wooden gasket that does not allow the clamp to move and securely fix it.

The set is very light and easy to use, financially economical.

Helps you get the job done quickly and efficiently. A feature of this technique is its practicality in application with any tile material, moreover, it allows you to clamp the corner of 4 tiles at the same time. It is worth agreeing that the system is very versatile and very convenient.

Ways to quickly lay tiles

Such an occupation will still require care and accuracy of actions.

Conventionally, the process is divided into 2 stages - preparation and laying itself. Preparation for work begins with the removal of the old coating, its alignment and then ends with the priming stage. Then you can go directly to the installation.

You also need to purchase certain tools, such as:

  • Putty knife;
  • Glue;
  • Special marker and others necessary in the work.

There are several options for laying tiles: seam to seam, diagonal, dressing. To achieve a good result, you can only level the surface well, otherwise you won’t achieve a flat wall, the tiles will “dance” on it. In the second step, the initial moment is to place the plank on the wall using fasteners. This will help lay out the first tile row.

Before gluing the first tile, a calculation is made and a corner is fixed, leading subsequently to laying. Then the angle from which the facing will begin is determined. With the help of already diluted glue, an area of ​​\u200b\u200bjust as much as is required for 1 m 2 is applied. The tile should be pressed evenly over the entire surface, all excess glue that has come out must be removed. At the second corner, tile trimming may be required. After the glue has completely dried, all excess elements are removed, and the seams are overwritten.

SVP: tile leveling system (video)

Summing up, we can recall the versatility of manual SVP equipment, which, moreover, is not inferior in its functionality and simplicity, and most importantly, pleasantly surprising in its price category. This is a wonderful analogue of factory production.

SVP is an innovative scheme for leveling tiles when laying on walls and floors. It came to us from the West, where it has been successfully used for a long time. It is suitable for laying ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware with a thickness of 3 to 20 mm (depending on the manufacturer).

Quick article navigation

Benefits of using

  • The main advantage of using the system is the automatic alignment of two adjacent elements at the same level, so there will be no height differences between them. The horizontal plane is perfectly flat.
  • If the tile adhesive shrinks when dried, the cladding will not lead.
  • The gaps are uniform. In some cases, you additionally need to use .
  • The laying speed is greatly simplified and even an inexperienced tiler gets a professional result. But you still need to have straight arms.

Comparison of domestic and foreign analogues

The domestic leveling system consists of two elements: a wedge and a clamp. The wedges can be reused, and the clamps are consumables, since after laying some of them will remain inside the seam.


Foreign options are more difficult - special tongs are required for their installation and removal. The clamps are made in a different way, sometimes they are the same wedges, sometimes they are flexible petals.

In my experience, I tested the Spanish Rubi Tile Level tile leveling system and the domestic SVP. Each of them has its pros and cons, which are discussed below.

Raimondi also has similar devices (called a leveling system).

Ruby

  • Quality plastic, well made. Position the system as a separate laying technology;
  • A well-thought-out design of the support platform, flexible petals allow you to securely fix tiles with a thickness of 3 to 20 mm;
  • Nylon ties should be soaked in water for 30 minutes before use. This increases their tensile strength. After drying, they are easily removed with pliers;
  • Convenient tie loosening design, almost always breaks in the right place;
  • The thickness of the tie is 0.8 mm, this allows you to make thin seams and adjust them with crosses.


  • The latches are not securely fastened, if glue gets in, they stop holding;
  • Weak clamping force. If you try to make it bigger, the ties are easy to break;
  • It is difficult to continue working after a night break. If you immediately insert the ties, they dry out overnight and break off easily. Inserting them into dried glue is also difficult, since the site is large. It will take a long time to poke with a spatula or screwdriver;
  • Reusable caps are only enough for 5-7 times;
  • High price.

SVP

  • Robust and simple design. Wedges are more reliable than caps, and are also useful in tile work in their own right;
  • Good fixation, ties are not torn;
  • Screeds do not need to be soaked, the support platforms are small. Therefore, it is easy to continue working after a night break: you can put them right away or easily make a small recess under the hat.

  • Mediocre workmanship;
  • To remove the ties, they must be hit with a mallet or simply kicked with your foot. But if the blow comes at an angle to the seam, or the glue is clogged there, it will tear in the wrong place.

Instructions for use



Rubi has a slightly different instruction (see photo):

Consumption

The table shows the approximate consumption of the tile leveling system depending on the dimensions (number of clamps per square meter):

Dimensions, mm 1200 1000 900 800 600 500 450 400 330 300 250 200 150 100
1200 6
1000 7 8
900 6 8 7
800 7 9 8 9
600 8 10 9 10 11
500 10 12 11 12 13 16
450 11 13 12 14 15 18 20
400 13 15 14 16 17 20 22 25
330 15 18 17 19 20 24 27 30 37
300 17 20 19 21 22 27 30 33 40 44
250 17 20 18 20 20 24 27 30 36 40
200 21 22 22 25 25 30 33 37 45 50
150 28 33 30 33 33 40 44 50 61 67
100 42 50 44 50 50 60 67 75 91 100

Price

It is difficult to find SVP in ordinary hardware stores, but it can be purchased via the Internet. A set of 250 wedges and 250 clamps costs about 1000 rubles.

As a result, the cost of using the leveling system goes from 24 to 400 rubles per square meter. If you buy them in batches of 500 pieces, you can reduce the price to 20-334 rubles.

A complete set from Rubi (forceps, 100 disposable clamps and 100 reusable caps) costs more than 3,800 rubles.

Homemade option


For those who are sorry to give more than 1000 rubles, you can try to easily implement a similar tile alignment system yourself. In 30 minutes, you can easily make 170 homemade clamps.


Outcome

It is obvious that using SVP is advantageous in terms of price and time only with large-format tiles.

Is it worth it to bother looking for and overpaying for a tile leveling system? For professional tilers - no, but for people without experience, SVP can greatly simplify the installation process and improve the result. But is it worth spending that kind of money for laying 5-20 squares, everyone will decide for himself.

Share your opinions and results in the comments.

comments powered by HyperComments

Related posts:

No related posts found.

In the process of facing work, you will need a tile leveling system (SVP), which simplifies the laying of tiles with your own hands. There are many opinions about this innovation. Let's figure out what it is and how to use it.

This device makes it easier to remove a flat surface.

What it is

SVP is used when laying tiles and is designed to facilitate the task of the master in relation to the removal of the ideal level. A similar device replaces. It has the form of wedges with clamps and consists of two parts.

The basis is spacers that regulate the position of the tile relative to neighboring elements. However, in order for them to be of real benefit, the position is fixed with the help of wedge clamps. The tile is exposed so that differences in height are leveled, and the glue is evenly distributed under the coating. In other words, the system averages the position of neighboring tiles, which allows you to achieve a flat surface.

Large elements are laid on a double layer of glue, otherwise the system will not cope with the task.

Even a non-professional tiler will be able to implement SVP

Advantages and disadvantages

Such a device has managed to win the recognition of the masters, however, some still reject its use, considering it not only useless, but also complicating the process of laying tiles. To understand the appropriateness of the application, consider the advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of SVP:

  • Flat floor. Allows you to set the optimal level in the plane. This not only affects the quality and appearance of the masonry, but also increases the life of the coating. Setting the level with this device is much faster and easier than using traditional methods.
  • Same seams. The base of the system is inserted between the tiles, and therefore perfectly replaces the plastic crosses. The exact distance between the fragments is fixed, the same over the entire area.
  • Even distribution of glue. If the floor surface is not perfectly flat, this disadvantage is leveled by the adhesive composition. The solution fills the voids and disperses over the plane if there are protrusions on it. This is especially true when a thick layer of glue is used, since it is quite difficult to manually perform such work.
  • Prevents tiles from sagging. Even after the surface has dried, the floor will retain its level and will not sag under the influence of loads.
  • Fixes the tile during drying. Ordinary masonry, drying out, changes its position: sags, shifts, jumps around the edges. Clamps eliminate this drawback and firmly press the tile to the base, fixing it in one position until the fasteners are removed.

There are many advantages to such a system.

The disadvantages of the method:

  • time spent on installing and removing wedges;
  • difficulty cleaning the seams;
  • additional expenditure of money for the purchase of SVP.

System differences

There are two types. The first is the standard economy option. The second is more advanced and improved. Standard SVP is used in most cases, especially if there are no significant differences on the surface to be lined. The base element has a flat base and is clamped on top with a wedge. Thus, the position of the tile is fixed, the same seams are set, and small irregularities are smoothed out.

The premium-class system, in addition to being more expensive, has a specific structure - the base of the inter-seam insert has a curved shape. At first, this seems like a disadvantage and is puzzling, why is it better? However, despite the fact that the base initially displaces the tile, after fixing it with a clamp, self-alignment occurs. The plate is bent as much as necessary for even laying of tiles and distribution of glue relative to existing floor defects.

How to use

The tile leveling system is very easy to handle. Of course, when laying tiles with your own hands, a beginner will need more time to expose all the elements, but it guarantees an excellent result on the basis of masonry.

The technology involves the use of special tools

How to use SVP:

  1. Apply adhesive to the floor surface with a notched trowel.
  2. Place the first tile and fasten two SVP bases along the edges.
  3. Put down the second one.
  4. Secure the inserts with wedges. Do the same on the other side.
  5. Adjust the clamp until it is firmly fixed.
  6. Clear the seams from the adhesive composition that has come through, without violating the position of the tile.

If you do not remove the adhesive at the joints of the tiles, after drying it will be very difficult to remove, and this will affect the strength of the coating.

Whether such a device is necessary or you can do without it is up to you. If you want to get a smooth surface, you should use all available methods.