How to install a plastic window in the house. How to install a plastic pvc window with your own hands

Until 2003, the installation of PVC windows and balcony blocks was not regulated by the state. Window installation specialists were guided by the technology proposed by the manufacturers of these structures. Whether she was wrong or not, it is difficult to judge. But the number of complaints about freezing, blowing and leaking frames exceeded the permissible limits. In order to eliminate these problems, at the beginning of March 2003, GOST 3071-2002 was adopted, and it became mandatory to install windows according to GOST.

What is pvc window installation according to GOST

The introduction of a document regulating the installation of window seams and junctions caused, at one time, a lot of controversy and disagreement. Window installation companies were unhappy with the upcoming costs of purchasing additional materials and increasing labor costs.

The fact is that the state standard approved several standards requiring the use of materials in the installation that were not previously used, or were used reluctantly. This entailed an increase in the cost of the work of performers and, accordingly, the consumer. Which, it was believed, could lead to a decrease in demand for window services.

But the worries were in vain. It was consumers who were the first to appreciate the benefits of GOST. Which is not surprising, since the document is fully focused on improving the operating conditions of window and balcony blocks. What are these improvements?

1. Installation of plastic windows according to GOST with vapor and waterproofing of gaps. The document gave a definition of the assembly seam, indicating the materials necessary for its construction. Now the correct seam should consist of three layers: outer, water-proof and vapor-permeable.
2. The recommended clearance parameters are indicated.
3. The requirements for surface preparation are determined.
4. Established acceptance rules.
5. Maximum allowable distances between fixing points are indicated. For a plastic profile, this is 70 mm.
6. A list of actions for testing the quality of structures is given.
7. The maximum service life of the materials used is indicated: at least 20 years.

They did not ignore such an important element of the window structure as the ebb. According to GOST, now it is protected from below with a diffusion tape made of polyester. This ensures a strong fixation of the metal sheet to the wall and the box. The presence of a tape on the lower plane of the ebb significantly reduces the noise from raindrops.

Application of regulations in practice

Since March 2003, the installers began to work in accordance with the accepted standards. But for a consumer who is unfamiliar with the intricacies of these works, the question inevitably arises: what does it mean to install a window according to GOST? Knowing the answers will help you track the correctness of the installation and make sure its quality. The first thing to be aware of is that all the seams of the window block should now consist of three parts.

1. Central - from mounting foam, which has high frost resistance and moisture resistance.
2. External - from a waterproofing tape.
3. Internal - from a vapor barrier tape.

The basic principle of installation can be explained as follows: the inner part of the seam must have low thermal conductivity, and the side parts protecting it must be vapor permeable. In this case, if moisture penetrates to the mounting foam, it will freely come out in the form of steam and will not harm the insulation layer (mounting foam).

Mounting Benefits

There are several advantages over conventional professional installation. But they are all so important that it is unwise to ignore them.

1. If all the standards of the State Standard are observed, freezing and leaking of the seams are excluded. Hence, and window frames.
2. The possibility of formation of a fungus and a mold is excluded.
3. The insulating layer (mounting foam) is protected from moisture and will not collapse ahead of time. If installed incorrectly, with the absence of protective tapes, yellowing of the foam can be observed. Under the influence of moisture, its structure becomes loose and destruction processes begin. Such foam loses its thermal insulation properties with all the consequences: windows begin to freeze, leak, and are no longer a reliable barrier to wind.
4. The ebb is connected to the wall by a frame more hermetically, which provides an additional heat-insulating effect and increases the service life of the window unit.

There is another important advantage of complying with the requirements of the State Standard. If the consumer remains dissatisfied with the quality of installation and orders an independent examination service, the company that installed this window, at best, is threatened with reinstallation. And the worst - a lot of expenses.

Materials required when installing windows

Among the installers of plastic windows, GOST 3071-2012 was called "tape". This is due to the fact that, in accordance with the requirements of this document, it is necessary to protect the seams with “ribbons” - products that are narrow in width: vapor barrier, self-expanding and diffusion.

Materials for installing plastic windows according to GOST:

• tapes PSUL (self-expanding sealing);
• GPL (vapor barrier), made of butyl rubber or aluminum foil, for internal protection of seams;
• diffusion polyester for external protection.

PSUL tapes are self-expanding material and are sold in rolls. When installing, it is extremely important to choose the degree of increase in the volume of the tape. This indicator is always indicated on the packaging. So, for gaps 10 mm wide, you need to choose a tape with an expansion range of 30-40 units. The most popular brands of tapes are Profband, PSUL-EUROBAND, Liplent, Robiband.

Polyethylene tape GPL (hydro vapor barrier) is made on the basis of foamed rubber. On one side there is an adhesive base, in the middle - a vapor-permeable material, on the other side - a laminated base and inserts made of metallized material (foil). The purpose of these tapes is to reflect heat back into the room, and protect the mounting foam from moisture. Popular brands: TYTAN Professional, KLEBEBANDER, Sealant-Abris.

Diffusion tapes are placed under the tide to protect the seam from moisture from the outside of the window. These materials are also made from butyl rubber, but they have two adhesive bases: on each side. Therefore, the protective material is firmly glued to both the ebb and the opening. Popular brands: HAUSER, Robiband, Ultima, WS.

Installation technology according to GOST

The installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST 30971-2012, the step-by-step technology of which is proposed, can be performed independently.

Step 1. Use a stiff-bristled brush or paint brush to sweep away dust and debris.

Step 2. The seams between the bricks are leveled with a moisture-resistant putty.

Step 3 Cover the putty with a layer of primer.

Step 4. Open the window block and remove the sash.

Step 5 At the bottom of the frame, the stand profile is removed.

Step 6. PSUL is glued at the junction of the frame and the stand profile.

Step 7. If a balcony block is installed, the docking profile is also removed from the outside of the frame. At the junction with the opening, PSUL tape is glued around the entire perimeter. If a window is installed, immediately glue the tape around its perimeter.

Step 8. Take a simple pencil and tape measure. Mark the attachment points on the PVC profile. In accordance with the requirements of the standard, the distance between these points should not exceed 70 cm. The hole should be 150-180 mm from the corner of the frame.

Step 9. Drill holes. The diameter of the drill must be less than the diameter of the bolt or self-tapping screw.

Step 10 Support pads are installed on the opening, which will be under the frame.

Step 11. Insert the frame and fix it with self-tapping screws.

Step 12. From the side of the street, the places of fastening of the PSUL are marked.

Step 13. Remove the frame and with a shift of 0.5 cm from the markup, glue the PSUL.

Step 14 Install the starting profile for slopes on the frame.

Step 15. From the inside, paste over the frame with GPL tape.

Step 16. Install the frame, align. Drill holes in the wall for dowels and perform the final fixation.

Step 17 Install the sashes.

Step 18. Fill the seam with mounting foam.

Step 19 After 15-20 minutes, the GPL tape is leveled along the slopes.

Step 20. GPL is installed under the windowsill.

Step 21 Carry out the installation of the window sill.

Step 22 Diffusion tape is installed under the ebb.

Step 23. Fix the ebb.

Installing a window according to GOST according to GOST, the instructions for which are given above, is a simple task. If you comply with all the requirements of the State Standard, window openings will be reliably insulated and sealed.
P.S. And for dessert, I suggest watching a video clip: Installation of a window in accordance with GOST

The technology for installing plastic windows in a brick house differs from the rules for installing PVC profile products in concrete or panel walls. It is important to understand these differences before starting installation work and avoid mistakes.

Installation of plastic windows requires a set of tools and consumables.
Plastic windows in a brick house can be installed on anchor plates or bolts. Their dimension depends on the depth of the quarters into which the product will be attached, as well as the quality of the brick from which the walls are laid. It can be gas silicate, foam concrete, etc.

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If the installation is carried out in a secondary housing stock, before installing the window, you must first remove the old frame from the opening. This will require:

• removing sashes from hinges;
• removal of the old;
• dismantling of the window sill and low tide;
• removal of roofing felts and tow, once used to insulate the opening;
• beating old plaster, if necessary, alignment of the geometry of the opening.

For dismantling, you will need a small crowbar. If the frames are massive enough, then to facilitate the scrapping process, you can use a hand saw for wood or an electric jigsaw.
To drill holes for fasteners, you need a puncher, to fasten the frame to the anchor - a screwdriver. You will also need a construction knife with replaceable blades, a level, good quality construction guns for foam and sealant.

What materials are needed to install a plastic window?

Installation of plastic windows is a multi-stage process. At each stage, it is necessary to use various consumables:

• mounting wedges;
• professional foam;
• PSUL or acrylic sealant;
• waterproofing tapes;
• anchor plates or bolts.
• cyacrine;
• sealant.

Mounting wedges are needed to level the level, if necessary, they are placed under the stand profile.
Mounting foam- insulating material for filling the installation seam, i.e.

space between wall and window frame. Professional pistol foam must comply with the temperature regime of the season in which the installation of a plastic window is planned.
PSUL (pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape) is glued around the perimeter of the window frame and expands from the street side of the seam - from the edge of the frame to a quarter. It looks like gray foam. If there are no quarters, a special acrylic sealant will be required.
A waterproofing tape made of membrane material is placed under the ebb for ventilation and protection of the bottom seam from moisture.
Sealant is needed to fill the seams where the window sill adjoins the slopes and the window frame.

How to fix a window in an opening?

The rules for installing plastic windows are explained in detail by GOST R 52749-2007 “Mounting window seams with vapor-permeable self-expanding tapes. Specifications". This state standard prescribes that before you start installing a window in an opening, stick a PSUL around its perimeter.
This self-expanding material is an independent mounting layer that cannot be covered with plaster, putty, or painted over. Otherwise, the insulating material will not perform its functions.
When inserting the frame into the window opening, you should adhere to the tolerances. The deviation of the window frame in the horizontal and vertical plane should be no more than 1.5 mm per 1 m of length, but not more than 3 mm for the entire height of the window.

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The frame is attached to a brick wall according to the following rules:

• from the inner corner of the frame to the first fastener, the vertical distance should not exceed 150-180 mm;
• from the impost to the fastener horizontally, this distance is recommended at 120-180 mm;
• vertical anchors - with a gap of 700 mm for white plastic windows and 600 mm for laminated profiles.
  

  The inserted block must be checked for deviation from the level and foamed around the perimeter.

Assembly seam device

PSUL along the perimeter and foam insulation are only 2 parts of the three-layer filling of the assembly seam described by GOST.
After foaming the frame, it is necessary to remove the installation wedges from under the support profile and fill the voids with foam. For better adhesion, the inner surface of the window opening can be moistened with a spray before foaming.
Before installing the outflow from the outside, a waterproof vapor-permeable tape should be glued. The ebb is screwed to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The edges of the tide must be bent to the outer slopes to avoid moisture getting under it.
On the inner side of the window along the perimeter (except for the lower horizontal part of the frame) a vapor barrier is glued, which provides an additional sealing layer to the mounting joint and isolates it from moisture. Such a tape is produced in various widths and can be glued both under wet finishing of slopes (plaster) and under dry (slopes made of expanded polystyrene or plastic). They also produce universal tapes for slopes.
A vapor barrier is also installed under the window sill: a full-butyl tape with a foil layer.

We collect the installed window

The frame installed in the opening and foamed around the perimeter must be assembled.

Double-glazed windows are inserted into the deaf, non-opening parts. To fix (fix) the installed double-glazed window, you will need a medium-sized Plexiglas hammer. The glazing beads are cut at an angle of 45° and inserted into the frame along the perimeter of the double-glazed window with some effort. In order for the glazing bead to finally snap into place, it must be lightly knocked out with a hammer.
If the installed window unit has opening sashes, it is necessary to hang them on the hinges. It is not difficult to cope with this task, since modern window fittings are very easy to operate.
But putting the sash in place is not enough. You should check its performance and, if necessary, adjust it in the hinge part using a special adjusting key.

To check how accurately the level of the plastic window is, you need to open the sash. If by inertia it does not slam shut or open wider, then the block is installed correctly.

Installing window sills and slopes

The installation of wooden windows, like plastic ones, cannot be considered complete if a window sill is not installed. The window sill is snapped into place and attached to the support profile.
If voids under the window are found during dismantling, you can fill them with insulation, for example, rolled or tiled, and then install a window sill.
For the final finishing of the opening, you need to understand how to properly install the slopes. They can be plastered or assembled from expanded polystyrene sandwich panels.
With the latter option, the panels are cut to size in place, taking into account the geometry of each slope. A U-shaped plastic profile is screwed to the frame close to the slopes, otherwise called the starting one. A panel is inserted into it. The voids are foaming.
Foam is a sealant made of polyurethane foam, which, due to its properties, takes a certain time to fully expand and harden. Typically 1 to 24 hours.
In places where they adjoin the wall, sandwich panels are closed with a decorative profile, most often of an F-shape.

The junctions of the slopes and the frame to the window sill are sealed with sealant.

Who is responsible for window installation?

Installing a PVC profile window and installing a wooden window are not the same thing. Installing windows in a brick house is associated with certain nuances. It is required to have all the necessary tools at hand, including adjusting keys for window fittings, as well as a supply of fasteners and special mounting tapes.

It is equally important to choose the right mounting foam and sealant. As an alternative to the latter, so-called liquid plastic can be used. This is a special adhesive-sealant that hardens very quickly, but also creates a particularly strong sealed seam.

If you are not sure that you can handle the installation yourself, it is better to enlist the help of specialists.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMBqdgWXysU

The advantages of installing plastic windows are not only operational characteristics, but also ease of installation. A simple process, facilitated by the presence of fasteners and additional parts in the factory, the home master will be able to master and implement it himself. There are a number of nuances in it that dictate scrupulous implementation of building regulations to an independent installer. To call on assistants will need patience, accuracy and at least one person. Then the installation of plastic windows with your own hands will be performed flawlessly and practically free of charge.

Video tutorial for independent builders

Preliminary measurements and calculations

Before buying a window, it is traditional to measure the opening, taking into account whether it is with or without a quarter. Openings with a quarter - a characteristic detail of a foam concrete structure, significantly reducing heat loss. In an opening without a quarter, you need to order a window, the length of which will be 5 cm less than the equivalent parameter of the opening. From the width value, you need to subtract 3 cm. Gaps along the contour of 1.5 cm are needed for foaming, an additional 3.5 cm from the bottom are needed for the window sill. GOSTs recommend leaving 2.0 cm around the perimeter.

To arrange an opening with a quarter, measurements are taken at the narrowest point. Windows are ordered by adding 3 cm to the width, the length value is not changed.

Windows are usually located not in the middle of the opening, but retreating from the outer plane 1/3 deep. But those who want to install a plastic window with their own hands may have options with an offset to either side. This circumstance must be taken into account when ordering window sills and external ebbs. To the width indicators of both elements calculated according to the location of the window, 5 cm must be added.

The location of the battery also affects the calculation of the width of the sill. It should only half cover the radiator. Plus 2 cm for the establishment under the base of the window. The minimum margin for length is 8 cm, but it is better not to skimp and add 15 cm to cut this part beautifully.

Note. Plastic side plugs are attached to the window sills and ebbs. Don't give up on them.

Frame fastening methods

The installation technology does not depend on the number of internal chambers in the metal-plastic profile, nor on the number of chambers in double-glazed windows. It depends on the material from which the walls of the building are built, and on the dimensions of the window. Based on the above prerequisites, the method and attachment devices are selected.

You can fix the plastic window structure:

• mounting anchors or dowels inserted into the walls through through holes drilled in the profile;
• with special toothed plates that are pressed into the profile, they do not penetrate into the wall, but are installed by surprise and fastened with screws.

The first method is recognized as the most reliable. It is used mainly for the installation of large and heavy window systems. When fastened through, the window will firmly resist numerous impact loads that occur, for example, when operating windows with sashes that open in two different positions. In addition, the anchors passing through the frame will allow you to more accurately adjust the verticals and horizontals of the mounted structure.

However, those who want to know how to properly install plastic windows of small dimensions with blank double-glazed windows should be interested in the method of fixing with anchor plates. They will not spoil the appearance of the window, since then they will be hidden under the slopes.

Advice. For the installation of anchor plates in a concrete or brick opening, it is desirable to make small recesses so that you do not have to apply an extra leveling layer before installing the internal slopes.

Often builders combine both methods. The anchors are buried in the walls through the side elements of the frame and through the bottom profile (window base), and the top is fixed only with plates. If do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows is done in a wooden bath, anchor plates are rarely used, they can become loose. Instead of anchors, galvanized self-tapping screws are sometimes used.

Specifics of installation in a wooden structure

To a large extent, the installation process is influenced by the type of building material. If for walls made of foam concrete, hollow or solid bricks, the differences are only in the size of the anchors, then there is a special approach to openings in log cabins and in timber walls. You need to take into account not only how, but also when it is better to install plastic windows in wooden openings, and even how to do it.

• It is possible to equip a wooden structure with plastic windows only after a year, preferably two years after the completion of construction. This significant break is necessary due to post-construction shrinkage. The smallest period of shrinkage and its size are for buildings made of glued laminated timber.
• Installation is not carried out directly in the opening. You can only insert a window into a wooden box that protects the window structure from deformation. There should be no damage, defects and rot on the window unit. Before starting work, it must be treated with an antiseptic.
• Shrinkage, however, is no longer so intense, and will occur after the installation of windows and finishes. Taking into account what, a gap of 3-7 cm is left between the upper plane of the opening and the box. The size of the gap depends on the humidity and the category of materials used in construction. The gap after the installation of the window is filled with jute insulation and closed with platbands on both sides.

There are no exact recommendations in building codes regarding the material for ebbs and window sills in wooden houses. The ebbs usually use standard ones attached to the window structure. The window sill can be both polymeric and wooden. It is not forbidden for the bottom profile to rest directly on the wooden window sill. That is, before installation, it may already be.

There is a nuance that is not specified in the regulations, but recommended by experienced builders to those who figure out how to insert plastic windows correctly. Wood that can pass evaporation will reduce the technical qualities of the mounting foam. In order for the foam “blown out” along the perimeter not to be moistened, it is advisable to equip the window block along the line of its application with a foiled polyethylene foam tape.

Plastic window installation standards

A distinctive feature of the technology is the use of mounting foam, which stiffens the frame-opening connection. The layer obtained as a result of polymerization of the foam simultaneously performs the function of insulation and additional fastening. In order for said element to retain the necessary technical characteristics, the foamed layer is surrounded by insulating layers.

When it is better to insert a plastic window, the owner decides. Winter installation is often recommended due to the immediate manifestation of all flaws. When choosing a mounting foam, it is imperative to take into account at what values ​​of atmospheric temperature the composition will harden better. It is advised to prefer professional foam, and to work with negative thermometer readings, you need to buy a specialized nozzle.

How to perform foaming is described in detail by the manufacturer in the instruction attached to the product. Foaming usually begins from the bottom, moving upward in a circular motion. To eliminate the overspending of expensive material, the foam is blown in several steps in segments of 25-30 cm.

Advice. In order to shift the dew point, foaming is performed with unequal density. The outward facing foam layer is recommended to be made less dense than the inner one. Along the perimeter, the foam must be blown evenly, without voids and gaps.

Window opening preparation

There should be no dust, no debris, no paint residues in the opening - this is a prerequisite. Home craftsmen who want to know how to insert a plastic window into a wooden structure need to cut off the top “unreliable” layer if the installation is to be done in an already used box. The foam will adhere firmly to the top layer. If there is a suspicion that it will exfoliate over time, it is better to eliminate it.

Advice. The gaps between the frame and the opening are filled only with foam, if the distance does not exceed the limit of 4 cm. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with cheaper material: drywall, pieces of timber, foam plastic, brick, etc.

Preparing a plastic window

• First, release the frame from the sash, for which pull out the pin inserted into the upper hinge. You need to pick it up carefully from below with pliers and a screwdriver. Then, slightly lifting, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. Double-glazed windows are removed from blind windows, having previously removed the longitudinal and then transverse glazing beads. To remove glazing beads, a knife with a thickened side or a spatula is carefully inserted into the gap and slowly shifted, trying not to damage the glass.

Note. It is possible to insert a plastic window of small dimensions using mounting plates without removing the sashes or double-glazed windows. If possible, do not violate the integrity of the factory design.

• Lean a double-glazed window or sash at an angle against the wall, placing it on a flat surface covered with cardboard or some soft material.

Attention. You can't lay flat! Put with a warp too. The smallest pebble under the base will cause a crack to appear.

• Remove the protective film from the outer surface of the frame. If you do not remove it now, then it will be much more difficult to do it and you will have to use a building hair dryer.
• Regardless of the type of mount chosen, mark the places for its installation. The step strongly recommended by the builders is 40 cm (maybe a little less), allowed by GOSTs a maximum of 70 cm. The standards for indentation from the corners and from the impost are 15 cm. If mounting plates are used, they are pre-attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. Holes are made for anchor bolts or long self-tapping screws by placing a metal drill on the outside of the frame.

Most of the video instructions teaching how to install a plastic window yourself dictate fixing the PSUL protective tape before installation. However, craftsmen, faced with its sticky "inconvenience", convince that it is more reasonable to attach it after installation.

Direct installation process

• Insert the frame into the opening, placing special plastic corners or small blocks around the perimeter to provide a technological gap. Slightly moving these spacer wedges, set the frame clearly horizontally and vertically with uniform side clearances.

Advice. It is desirable to place spacers near the point of attachment with a self-tapping screw or anchor. They will protect the frame from deformation.

• Since the installation of pvc windows with your own hands can be carried out using different fasteners, differences appear at this stage.
  • Screw a self-tapping screw into the opening of a wooden house through the holes in the frame. You don't need to screw it all the way in.
  • On the walls of foam concrete or brick, mark the points through the holes in the frame, then remove the frame, drill holes with a drill appropriate for the material. Then return the frame to its place, “bait” the fasteners.
  • There will be no need for double manipulation of the frame when mounting on anchor plates. They should simply be bent so that they adjoin the place intended for their fastening.

• The final fastening is made after the control of the horizontals and verticals with a spirit level and a plumb line. It is impossible to persist with tightening, so that the frame does not begin to bend barrel-shaped. Finish screwing as soon as the hat is level with the frame. Installers advise leaving 1 mm above the surface.
• Return the dismantled parts to their place in the reverse order and check the operability of the structure.
• Fill gaps with foam. Close the foamed seams from the outside and from the inside with protective tapes. Outside, the insulating tape must be "drowned" in
• Fill the gap under the drain with foam. Install it with a slope from the window, attach it with screws to the bottom profile.
• After the polymerization of the foam, it is necessary to install a window sill. The plastic version is 2 cm under the sweet clover. To create a slight slope from the window, the space under the window sill can also be foamed.
• It is desirable to make slopes on the day of installation. Maximum break 3 days after installation.

After performing all operations for 16 hours, windows are not advised to be used so as not to violate the integrity of the assembly joints. Knowing how to install a plastic window is necessary not only for skilled owners. If the owner of country estate decides to order the services of a little-known team of installers, he also needs to study the specifics of installation in advance.

Previously, only wooden windows were installed in houses, but nowadays not only wooden windows are produced, but also.

And in the modern world, people often began to install plastic windows in their houses or apartments. So you, at some point, decided that wooden windows no longer hold heat so well, freeze through and look, let's say, not very attractive, and for this reason you decided to change wooden windows to plastic ones.

Installation of plastic windows is not easy, so this work is best left to specialists. But, if you are sure that you are able to install windows yourself or you have some experience in installing such windows, then you can install windows yourself.

That's just how to properly install a plastic window, we will tell further.

The positive quality of installing plastic windows on your own is that you will do it more carefully than many specialized workers. Still, if you do not have the skills to install such windows and have never seen how they do it, then it is best to use the services of specialized workers.

When is the best time to install plastic windows?

Installation of plastic windows can also be carried out in winter, but in the event that the outside air temperature is not less than minus five degrees. Otherwise, you need to install a special heat shield.

window measurement

Before purchasing a new plastic window, you need to make measurements of the window opening and, according to the data received, buy a finished window or place an order for window manufacturing. When you order a window according to your size, it will fit perfectly into the opening of your window accordingly.

The window should not fit tightly into the opening, there should be a small gap between the window and the opening, as it needs to expand or contract, this will depend on temperature changes.

clearance requirements

The minimum dimensions of the gaps should be:

• Window up to 1m 20 cm indent should be 15 mm;
• Window up to 2 m 20 cm indentation is 20 mm;
• Window up to 3 m indent is 25mm.

When you replace a window, you need to take into account that the window should only fit into the window opening by a certain number of centimeters. This is necessary so that the double-glazed window is not in the wall and in order to make slopes.

All measurements were taken, all the nuances were taken into account, and as a result, the required size of the window profile was obtained. Now you can go to the company and order a window or take a ready-made one that suits your parameters.

Dismantling the old window and preparing the opening

After you have already bought a window and the weather allows its installation, then you can do its installation. It must be borne in mind that all work will be quite dusty, so it is better to remove all things or cover with a film.

After you have done all the preparatory work, start dismantling the old window, and in order to remove the old window, use a chisel, pry bar and hammer.

Before installing a plastic window, it is necessary to clean the window opening well from dirt and moisten it a little.

Then you can start preparing the window for installation.

Installing a plastic window

Before installing the window profile, the sashes are removed from the window and the double-glazed windows are removed from the deaf parts of the window. Then it is necessary to peel off the protective tapes outside the profile and install the protective caps in the drain holes. We fasten fasteners for mosquito nets on self-tapping screws.

Profile insulation

If you decide to make anchors as fasteners, then the profile is drilled through and therefore the chambers are depressurized. Also, fastening windows to anchors requires more labor and skill, and for this reason, such fastening is not suitable for beginners. If the profile is not fixed correctly, it can lead, and if it does, the window will be damaged.

But anchoring also has positive qualities, for example, the design will be durable. But the negative quality of the mounting plates is that they do not provide good structural strength. But mounting plates are the easiest way to fix plastic windows. Very often, specialists use both types of mounts.

1. Usually we start fastening from the corner and at a distance of 120-150 mm we make the first fastener and then with a distance of 700 mm we make the next fastener. Three fasteners are installed on each side.
2. Before installing the profile in the opening, it is necessary to check all planes with a level, then with the help of wooden bars it is necessary to raise the profile and adjust it vertically.
3. It is necessary to start vertically from the top of the window opening and raise the profile from below using the materials described above. The next step is to align the profile horizontally. Fixing the profile in the opening on the side and top is made of wooden blades. After you have done alignment on all sides, you need to make a profile and if everything is in order, then you can fix it.
4. If you fix the window profile to the mounting plates, then they are first fixed to one dowel nail. The next step is to check the window profile with a level, and only after that the mounting plate is fixed with a second dowel with a nail.
5. In the event that the windows are attached to the anchor, then through the holes that were previously made and then using a special tool, make holes in the wall and screw the anchor in without tightening them.
6. The anchors are not tightened in order to check the window installation level, and only then can the anchors be tightened, but very slowly so as not to disturb the balance of the profile. When the profile is fixed, we remove the wooden blades from the sides and top, and the lower blades remain, because they are the basis of the window profile.

How to install ebbs on plastic windows?

The next step of the work is the installation of the ebb.

We measure it and use metal scissors to cut out the desired size, then a special tape is glued to the bottom of the frame, it is needed to protect the seam between the wall and the bottom of the window.

After the tape is glued, a layer is applied to it. Also, a layer of mounting foam is applied to the edge of the slab, this is necessary in order to ensure the sealing of the ebb. The ebb must go into the grooves of the profile and is attached with self-tapping screws.

Seam sealing

Then, with mounting foam, we close the seam between the wall and the window (first from one side, then from the other and from above). After the foam has dried, another insulation tape is glued on top of it. From the inside of the window, it is necessary to remove the protective tape and use special linings when installing the double-glazed window.

With the help of the slats, they hold the double-glazed window, drive the slats into the grooves and install the sash, fix it in the canopies, then fix the handle and adjust the sash horizontally and vertically. After all work, a mosquito net is installed.

How to install a window sill on plastic windows?

After all the work, we begin the installation of the window sill.

• First, we fill the lower mounting seam well with foam, and a tape is glued on top of it.
• Then they install wooden blocks on which the window sill will be attached.
• Wooden blocks must be at least ten centimeters. Also, the window sill should be tilted five degrees towards the room, and the window sill should not obscure the battery.
• It is necessary to check whether the window sill is securely attached and it is necessary to solder it from below and, best of all, with mounting foam.

In this article, we talked about how to install a plastic window and we hope that this information was useful to you. Good luck and be patient!

Do-it-yourself window installation will save up to 50% of the money that would be spent on installation by a third-party company. But it is very important to do everything right, otherwise the savings will be doubtful. For wooden houses, there are some features that you should be aware of.

Possible problems with incorrect installation of windows

It is advisable to adequately assess your strengths in advance, because some mistakes can become very expensive:

• • lack of casing - a house made of timber during shrinkage “walks” and begins to put pressure on window frames;

• • the use of mounting foam in the shrinkage gap between the top in the casing and the wall of the house - the hardened foam is very hard and will transfer pressure from the upper bars to the window frame, nullifying the functions of the casing;

• • incorrect calculation of the dimensions of the plastic window frame - not taking into account the mounting gap, you will have to expand the window opening;

• • too large a gap between the frame and the wall - with a simple foaming of such a gap, the slopes will always be cold, it is better to insert an additional expansion profile;
  • lack of external protection of the mounting gap - when foaming the distance between the frame and the casing, it is better to close the gap from the outside with PSUL tape, which provides foam protection from ultraviolet radiation, but allows moisture to evaporate;

• • lack of waterproofing from the outside and vapor barrier from the inside - the foam is destroyed when exposed to the atmosphere, which leads to a deterioration in the insulating properties;

• • placing the window in the "cold zone" - is the cause of the freezing of the slopes and the formation of condensate from the inside

If there is the slightest possibility of making one of these mistakes due to inexperience, it is better not to save and order the installation of windows. For an experienced builder, do-it-yourself installation should not be a problem.

Pitfalls that plastic window manufacturers do not talk about

The tightness and high sound insulation of plastic double-glazed windows is presented as an undoubted advantage. But, unfortunately, not everything is so rosy. After all, the humidity in residential premises is constantly increasing, and thanks to leaky wooden frames, a constant flow of fresh air is ensured. Of course, too large gaps can make the house very cold, so euro-windows have long become a very popular product.

How to solve the problem with high humidity? One option is to make forced ventilation. But in the absence of ventilation holes, this can be problematic - you will have to redo a lot.

It was for such cases that window supply valves were invented - special profiles that are installed on plastic windows. What is especially pleasing is the ease of installation. It is enough to replace part of the standard seal with a special one and fasten the valve to the window sash with several self-tapping screws. Unfortunately, the system will not work without an exhaust vent.
Another unpleasant surprise for owners of wooden houses is that companies that install plastic windows often do not guarantee their work, citing the unpredictability of wood behavior. So even with all the installation rules, you can find that after a few years the windows stopped opening. And you won't be able to sharpen the plastic with a file.

Manufacture of casing (pigtails)

The first thing that begins with the installation of windows - with the installation of casing. But is it always needed and how to do it right?

When you can do without pigtails

A new wooden house made of logs or timber will shrink in any case. And no one canceled the seasonal heaving of the soil. In this case, casing is required - it will protect the window from distortions, torsion or bends.

It is important to use only dry and durable material for casing boards - edged board 50 mm thick and edged timber 150x100 mm or 50x50 mm. The width should be equal to the thickness of the wall.

But in a frame house, you can not make a pigtail - the frame itself is already formed for window and door openings and provides the necessary rigidity. In a log house that has stood for more than 10 years, some builders also do not mount the casing, arguing that it has already undergone shrinkage and is not deformed. But for peace of mind in your home, it is better to do it, this process is not so complicated.

How to do a squash correctly

The last option is the most time-consuming, but also the most reliable. If there are doubts about your own carpentry skills, it is better to make a casing in a mortgage bar. For this:

• • In the window opening, in the middle of the timber, two vertical furrows 5x5 cm in size are selected. This can be done both with a chainsaw and with a manual circular saw, a chisel and an ax. The second option is preferable if the hand is not stuffed for precise work with a chainsaw.

• • An edged board is laid on top of the embedded bar and fixed flush with self-tapping screws - two at the top and two at the bottom. To do this, a small recess with a diameter slightly larger than the head of the self-tapping screw is pre-drilled.
  • If the “thorn-monolith” casing option is chosen, then the previously sawn T-shaped element is simply driven into the groove and also screwed on with self-tapping screws.
  • Vertical elements should not reach the upper edge of the opening by 8 cm - so that the top laid on them with a thickness of 5 cm is at a distance of at least 3 cm from the wall beam. This will be the shrink gap.
  • The tip should enter the grooves with little effort, and not move freely in a horizontal plane. It is also fixed with self-tapping screws screwed in at an angle.
  • The insulation is laid in the shrinkage gap and closed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with a windproof membrane. In no case should the insulation be covered on both sides with vapor-tight films - the accumulated condensate will cause mold to form on the wood adjacent to the insulation.

And this is how the casing is done “in the deck”:

When the pigtail is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation of double-glazed windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows

The installation of double-glazed windows is not very complicated, but it requires precise adherence to the technology. Otherwise, the window will almost certainly condense, and the frame will warp.

Checking the delivered double-glazed window

In no case should you neglect this moment! First, the dimensions of the window opening and the double-glazed window are checked. So, if the opening is 184 cm, then the window frame should be 180 cm - the gap between the side posts and the wall cannot exceed 2 cm on each side. The height of the window opening, for example, is 120 cm, then the frame itself should be 116 cm, and at the bottom there is also a stand profile (clover) of 3 cm. Thus, the gap on top will turn out to be 1 cm. it needs to be left a place at the window calculation. It is needed so that the window sill can be installed from the inside, and the ebb can be screwed on the outside.

If mosquito nets are planned on the windows, it is also necessary to check the presence of fasteners. Handles are often “lost” as windows are transported without them. But pins - special fasteners, you need to select yourself.

Their length should be such that, when fully screwed in, they reach only to the middle of the casing. And that's with clearance. If the dowel is screwed into the wall of a wooden house, the window will begin to deform, regardless of the presence of a pigtail.

Often they do not pay attention to small elements - decorative overlays, fittings and drainage holes. They also need to be counted. But the window sill and the ebb must be ordered - forgetting to clarify their need, you can find that the windows arrived without them. For installation, you will also need special linings for the glass itself - their presence can only be seen by disassembling the double-glazed window.

They may not be included in the kit, so it is better to order them in advance. Wedges are convenient because, thanks to their different sizes, you can set the frame evenly by simply placing a wedge of the desired thickness under the corners and racks.

Dismantling and preparation of double-glazed windows

The finished double-glazed window is brought assembled. But to install it, you have to disassemble everything to the frame. For this:

• • when closed, the upper pins holding the swinging sash are removed with a special key;
  • the window handle is inserted, the sash opens and is removed from the lower mounts;
  • glazing beads are knocked out from the inside of the window and double-glazed windows are removed - you can use a hammer and a regular knife;
  • you need to remember or designate the right and left glazing beads;
  • a protective film is removed from the outside - under the influence of the sun it will not come off after a few months;
  • external elements are mounted - mosquito net holders and decorative plugs for drainage holes;
  • holes for pins are drilled - first at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the corners of the frame, and then no more than 60-70 cm from each other;

Once the preliminary preparation is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation.

Installation of the frame and assembly of plastic windows

First, the frame is simply inserted into the window opening and temporarily fixed in it. For example, temporary jibs nailed on the outside. But it is much easier to do everything with an assistant - he just holds the frame until it is leveled and screwed to the casing. Frame installation also requires the correct sequence:

1. 1. The lower edge is aligned according to the level - the laser level is more convenient in this regard. Wedges of different thicknesses are placed under each rack so as to achieve a perfectly even position. Even minimal distortion will create problems during operation.
   2. Side braces are inserted to ensure the same distance from the walls. If the width of the window frame is too small and literally "falls out" of the opening, you can use a special expansion profile. This is much better than foaming the resulting huge gap.

1. 1. The frame is also aligned vertically. Do not forget that you need to install it in a "warm" zone - for wooden walls without external insulation, this is clearly in the middle.
   2. Once the frame is level, you can begin to mount it, starting with the side racks. First, holes are drilled in the tree through those already made in the frame, and then the dowels are baited. First, the upper and lower, with a mandatory check of the vertical, and then between them.
   3. As soon as the frame is fixed, the ebb is attached outside. Of course, this can be done as a last resort, but on the second floor it is not so easy to approach from the outside. The tide is inserted into a special groove under the frame, screwed on with two self-tapping screws along the edges, and under it the gap is filled with mounting foam.

1. 1. Decorative trims are put on the fasteners of the sash. The lower ones are put on the frame, the upper ones - on the sash. First, the sash is installed on the frame, and only then the handle is attached in the open state.

1. 1. Double-glazed windows are placed on special gaskets. Without them, the window may simply burst due to the emphasis on the metal parts in the corners of the frame.

1. 1. The mounting seam around the perimeter is foamed.
   2. The window sill is installed. To do this, a finished window sill is placed on the window sill, wedges are placed under it for leveling. The window sill is removed, its end and delivery profile are smeared with sealant, and the free space between the wedges is foamed. Again, the window sill is placed, pressed tightly against the profile and left until the foam hardens.

1. In some cases, they do the opposite - first install the window sill, align it in level and screw it with dowels to the casing. And then a double-glazed window is placed on top of it. In this case, it is no longer necessary to align the frame horizontally. The only inconvenience is that the material of the window sill must withstand the action of the external environment. Of course, you can fix the ebb outside on top of the window sill and foam everything under it, thus protecting the wooden element.

Once the mounting foam has hardened, you can start finishing the windows.

Slopes for a plastic window in a wooden house

The easiest option that even girls can handle is to cover them with plastic panels. For this you will need:

• L-shaped or starting profile - it is screwed to the wall close to the window frame;
• decorative plastic corner - it closes the end of the panel from the side of the room and is also screwed with self-tapping screws;
• the plastic lining itself for the slopes.

And you don't even need to froth anything. But in order to provide the necessary protection of the mounting seam and good insulation, it is necessary to lay a heater between the wall and the slope and cover it with a vapor barrier. From the outside, the seam is closed with a windproof film - waterproofing with good vapor permeability.

And in order for the windows to please with warmth and comfort, it is very important to protect the mounting foam from exposure to ultraviolet radiation, as well as from being taken away by birds. You do not need to restrain your soul's impulses if you want to start doing something with your own hands. And everything will definitely work out!