Wiring diagram in the apartment. Typical wiring diagrams in the apartment

If you decide to replace the old wiring in Brezhnevka or Khrushchev, we recommend that you look at two typical wiring diagrams in a two-room apartment in a panel house. Further, we will not only provide modern projects for the placement of sockets, switches and junction boxes, but also recommendations for drawing up an electrical circuit with our own hands.

How to draw a plan yourself

If you want to independently draw a plan for the placement of sockets, switches and junction boxes in each room of a two-room apartment, we advise you to consider the following points:

1. It is not necessary to connect the entire group of sockets or the lighting line under one circuit breaker. It is advisable to “break” the power and lighting lines into several groups yourself. For example, one machine is responsible for lighting in the corridor and bathroom, and the second one is responsible for lighting in the hall, kitchen and bedroom. At the same time, the outlet line diagram in a 2-room Khrushchevka should be similarly distributed into several groups. About that, we told in a separate article.
2. In order to independently draw a design wiring diagram in a two-room apartment, use a photocopy of the housing plan. In this document, all the dimensions of the rooms are kept according to the actual values, so in the future, during installation, you will not have any difficulties with marking the walls.
3. and switches are not standardized by GOST standards and rules, so you can choose the most suitable distance from the floor for your conditions.
4. Each room must have its own junction box, with the exception of the bathroom. Due to the high humidity in the bathroom, it is better to place the junction box in the corridor and from there carry out the wiring for sockets and lamps.
5. As a rule, developers do not conduct electricity to the balcony. This is already done by the landlord himself. If you decide with your own hands, you can bring a separate wire from the junction box of the next room, and not directly from the apartment panel.
6. Protective automation must be installed in the shield - an RCD and a circuit breaker, which will protect the wiring in a two-room Khrushchev from short circuits, current leakage and overvoltage of the mains.
7. If the room is winding (like the hallway in the second of the diagrams we provided below), it is better to install several lights controlled by a two-gang switch. Otherwise it won't be good enough.

Ready examples

So, to your attention, wiring diagrams for a 2-room apartment of a panel and brick house:

As you can see, for a long and winding corridor, it is really better to install several chandeliers, which will make the lighting better. As for sockets, most of them are in the kitchen, because. here you need to connect a lot of household electrical appliances: a hood, an electric stove, a refrigerator, a dishwasher, a microwave oven, a kettle, etc.

To draw up a wiring diagram yourself, we recommend that you study the following articles:

1. How to arrange sockets in the apartment:
2. The correct location of the fixtures on the ceiling:
3. How to draw up a wiring diagram before repair:

You may also need a switchboard assembly diagram (one of the options):

The only difference is that in your case there will be more single-pole automata, because. Most likely there will be more groups of outlets. Or simply there will be more consumers on one machine if the load does not exceed 3.5 kW per machine. As we indicated in the recommendations, the sockets were divided into several groups, the wiring is additionally protected by RCDs and. The latter will protect the apartment from overvoltage and equipment failure when the neutral wire breaks, which is a common situation in the old housing stock.

We hope that the provided drawings were useful to you. If you have any difficulties in drawing up a wiring diagram in a two-room apartment of a panel house, be sure to ask our specialists in the "" category! You can see visual photos and video examples of electrical work in the article: do it yourself.

Replacing electrical wiring in an apartment with your own hands, as a rule, is timed to coincide with a major overhaul. And it is perhaps the most difficult part of it. Accordingly, the price. In a regional city in the middle zone of the Russian Federation, a professional wiring replacement costs about 1000 rubles. per 1 sq.m of the total area of ​​housing. You only need to take on the independent replacement of wiring if repairs are necessary, and you are short of money.

Copper, earth and doses

Replacing electrical wiring in a residential area rests on three pillars:

1. Replacing aluminum wires with copper ones.
2. Switching from a TN-C power supply circuit (solidly grounded neutral) to TN-C-S (with protective earthing of consumers).
3. Transition from wiring by branching to connecting groups with separate branches.

Let's explain in order:

Aluminum wiring due to its low cost and environmental friendliness (the mining and smelting of copper were then extremely harmful industries) became widespread in the world in the 30s - 60s. However, over time it turned out that aluminum is unsuitable for electrical wires:

• Within 20 years, changes occur in the circuits under current in the metal, the essence of which is still not completely clear; First of all, aluminum becomes very brittle, and it is literally impossible to breathe on the wiring from it.
• At the slightest ingress of moisture, aluminum is subject to electrocorrosion, which spreads under the shell; a whole-looking wire turns out to be thinned to a hair; hence - sudden failures, the most emergency.

Aluminum is a soft metal. It is squeezed out from under the screws of the terminals, the twists are weakened, and the soldering of aluminum is difficult, expensive and is one of the hazardous industries. Therefore, aluminum contacts are unreliable.

Power transmission line wires have a service life of less than 20 years, and aluminum defects do not affect there. But aluminum is now prohibited in residential wiring.

The Soviet TN-C power supply scheme was forced to be used, due to the need for mass electrification with an acute shortage of non-ferrous metals and a large length of communications in a vast country. Since 1997, the Russian Federation has adopted the TN-C-S power supply system, which ensures the safety of consumers, regardless of the state of the power grid. A lot of ungrounded high-rise buildings remained from the USSR, but since there is a problem, it needs to be solved; not "from above", so on their own.

The branching wiring scheme was also used involuntarily, and for the same reasons as TN-C. At the same time, branches to groups were connected to more powerful wires of the apartment input along their length. Branches were made in junction boxes - electric dispensers (doses); the main apartment dose is located next to the counter.

Each branch - stripped insulation and twisting or terminals: unreliable and sensitive to jamming. Now it has not yet been legalized (but things are moving towards that), but branch wiring is common: from the input to each group of connections there is a separate single piece of cable in double or triple insulation. No twists and terminals, moisture is not afraid.

Stages of work

Wiring costs can be cut in half or more. The fact is that the replacement of electrical wiring is carried out in five stages:

1. Development of a power supply scheme for an apartment (house).
2. Drawing up a wiring plan, its approval and registration together with the power supply scheme.
3. Repair facility.
4. Electrical wiring.
5. Installation of mechanisms (switches, automatic devices), connection points (sockets) and stationary electrical appliances (lighting devices, floor heating, washing machine, air conditioner, electric oven, etc.).

Prior to the start of work on the replacement of electrical wiring, protective grounding or protective grounding should be provided, if possible. However, his device is .

Wiring by points is carried out at the last stage during the installation of mechanisms, automation, connection points and electrical appliances.

At each stage of the replacement of electrical wiring, you can save. In general, you can reduce costs by half or more - up to 650-450 rubles / square, depending on what you can do on your own and what you have to entrust to specialists.

Power supply scheme

Take a look at the picture in the section. For now, just take a look. Let's give some explanations. First: kWA - electricity meter; RCD is a residual current device. Secondly, the power supply circuit is single-line.

Pay attention to the two slashes that cross out the wire designation. This means that in real life there are two wires - phase L and zero N (neutral), laid together. The PE protective wire is not crossed out, which means it comes separately. If the input is three-phase, then there will be three dashes on the designations of its wires. Systems with an isolated neutral, which are not used in everyday life, do not touch.

Now look at the drawing carefully. This is a single-line power supply scheme for an elite apartment of 200 sq. m. If you understand everything in it in general, you will be able to draw your own power supply scheme, even if you do not have an electrical engineering education and you do not know how to draw.

In the worst case, you will end up with a clumsy sketch. But according to him, an undergraduate student looking for a part-time job or a retired electrician will be able to draw the correct scheme in half an evening and inexpensively. And if you entrust the scheme to a practicing specialist with a decent salary already, then it will cost a pretty penny. The hassle will not decrease for you: after all, he needs the initial data.

We think over the power supply

Proper wiring in the house depends primarily on the power consumption. In cottage settlements, they give a consumption limit of 10-20 kW for housing, but in a city apartment this is unrealistic: either the machine in the entrance will always knock out, or, even worse, the house wiring will burn. And in old houses, where most often the replacement of wiring is required, the "Khrushchev" limit of 1.3 kW is laid down; at the limit - 2 kW.

However, no one turns everything on at once. Even in summer, when the air conditioners are on, they turn on out of time. Here, chance works for the consumer: with an average power consumption of 4.3 kW, house wiring is holding up. This limit is the basis for the calculation. True, if you start washing or ironing in the summer, you will have to turn off the air conditioner with the boiler, otherwise the main machine will cut down the entire apartment. But you will have to come to terms with this.

Without going into the details of the calculation, we will immediately give data for an average city apartment of 40-100 square meters. m of total area:

• The main machine - from 25 to 32 A, depending on the area. For the meticulous: the current safety factor is 1.3-1.5. It is impossible to give 2 in apartment buildings: the general wiring is “stunted”.
• Apartment RCD - 50 A 30 μA unbalance.
• Kitchen - two wiring branches of 4 square meters. mm; on each - an automatic machine for 25 A and an RCD of 30 A 30 μA. Washing the bathroom - from the kitchen; not indicated on the diagram, see below.
• Air conditioning - a branch of 2.5 sq. mm; automatic - 16 A, RCD - 20 A 30 μA.
• Socket circuits and lighting circuits - one and the other in each room, except for the bathroom and the bathroom; in them - only lighting; the bathroom is yet to be discussed. The cross section of the prodods is 2.5 sq. mm; automatic shutdown is not needed, the general apartment is enough.

That's all the source code for a single-line power supply circuit for an apartment. You can draw.

Figure: graphic diagrams for “visibility”:

We draw a diagram

As a basis, you can take the diagram given. Its top, from the exit from the counter, remains unchanged, you only need to change the numerical data. The brand of RCD does not matter: if you end up putting others instead of ASTRO-RCD, this does not violate anything.

In case of doubt regarding the designations, see the Appendix to the EMP (Consumer Electrical Installation Rules) or GOST 2.755-87(CT SEV 5720-86). Follow only the GOST number: for some reason, a lot of links to GOST 2.721-74 and even GOST 7624-55 pop up in the search, from which now there is no more sense than from the Moral Code of the builder of communism, at one time personally edited by a dear comrade and unforgettable general secretary Leonid Ilyich.

When drawing a diagram, observe the dimensions of the symbols of the elements: their scaling is not allowed. If, for example, an electric capacitor is indicated by two parallel lines 0.5 mm thick and 10 mm long at a distance of 2 mm from one another, then so be it, even if it is alone on a sheet of drawing paper A0.

Preparing a plan

Now consider the figure that accompanies this section. This is already a PLAN of electrical wiring: this is what the circuit turns into when you need to do it by hand. Let's explain the plan:

1. At least two branches should go to each room from the meter - to lighting circuits and sockets.
2. Since there is one bathroom in an ordinary apartment, DSU (additional potential equalization system) is not needed. Its branch is indicated by a dotted line in the diagram.
3. In the bathroom, mark only the waterproof ceiling lamp and the boiler, if it is installed there. The bathroom is a special and complex case, we will talk about it later.
4. Designate only branches to connection points (sockets) and stationary electrical installations. Stationary installations are those that are rigidly fixed to the supporting structures, or that are not powered through a detachable connection. For example: a boiler and a warm floor are stationary, but a washing machine, a dishwasher and an electric oven are not. The fact that they are connected to other communications does not concern electricians and does not care.
5. Do not clutter up the circuit with small things like LED lighting for the ceiling, an extension to the balcony, etc. Inspectors are only annoyed by such things, and a quite decent plan can be "hacked to death."
6. In no case do not show the branches to the balcony or loggia! For a city apartment, this is a gross violation of the PUE. These rooms must be powered from sockets in other rooms.

Now let's show you how to simplify the preparation of the plan:

• Take a plan of your apartment in DEZ or BTI.
• Scan; if large - in pieces.
• In Photoshop, glue the pieces, and remove the old designations of wiring, stationary electrical appliances and connection points.
• Apply new ones in accordance with the diagram and according to the model of the wiring plan shown. It is more convenient to do this not in Photoshop, but in CorelDraw or another vector graphics editor by importing the original raster file and then exporting the finished plan back to the raster. Don't forget to save the vector template! Plans made by amateurs are returned for revision with comments in almost 100% of cases.
• In Photoshop, divide a large image at the desired scale into parts the size of your printer's printable area, print and glue into a large sheet so that the lines match. If they move apart a little, you can draw by hand.

Notes:

1. If the bathroom is located far from the kitchen (as, for example, in Czech apartments), then the group of sockets provided for it, described below in the section on the kitchen, should be placed in the bathroom adjacent to the bathroom.
2. Groups of outlets in adjacent rooms should be placed exactly one against the other through the wall. In this case, by drilling through the wall, both groups can be powered with one branch, saving cable and pipe.
3. In “tram” apartments (enfilade layout) in the room farthest from the meter, groups of outlets, but no more than two, are permissible (in practice, not according to the PUE) to be powered in series, one from the other. In this case, if the nearest group is powered through the wall from the living room, another half a branch is saved.
4. Sconces and other local lights are also, in practice, permissible to be powered from sockets or in series within the room, if there is also a ceiling lamp in it.
5. Ceiling lights must be powered by each separate branch. Powering them through each other or from sockets is unacceptable: general lighting circuits are considered vital.
6. The rows are counted and marked on the plan as a chandelier. The branch for them is brought to the center of the ceiling, and the wiring during installation is done as safer and more convenient.

The finished power supply scheme and the wiring plan in the apartment must be registered and approved by the energy service. The verification and registration procedure is free of charge.

Important: the wiring plan should be given the utmost attention. Optimally, a well-planned plan saves costs by half or more compared to a hacky one.

Room electrical equipment

To draw up a power plan with skill, you first need to decide how many and what connection points and stationary consumers will be in the house. Of course, you are the master in your house, and it is impossible to develop a single method for drawing up a plan for any planning options. But the following guidelines may be helpful to you.

Bathroom

Bathroom electrical equipment is a tough nut to crack. On the one hand, only high humidity makes the bathroom especially dangerous in terms of the degree of electric shock. Plus, a splattered floor and a naked, steamed man in hot water. The resistance of his body falls more than that of a completely drunk: the circuit current through the body can exceed 5 A (!), And this is between an unconditionally fatal blow and charring. The damaging effect of the electric current depends on the time of exposure, and with such a force, the operating time of the RCD is by no means enough to definitely prevent trouble.

On the other hand, there are powerful electrical installations: a washing machine, a boiler, with a large intrinsic leakage current, operating at elevated temperatures and humidity. Under such conditions, exposed live contacts, albeit under the outlet cover, will be a source of danger of electric shock.

PUEs allow the installation of sockets in the bathroom through an isolating transformer or RCD, but this solution is even more forced than the TN-C system at one time. The RCD has already been mentioned, and as for the isolation transformer, this item was simply copied from the section on industrial electrical equipment for lack of a better one.

Installation of an isolating transformer is a technically rather complicated task and the subject of a separate description. Recommendations like - to shove the RTR under the false ceiling in the bathroom - the fruit, if not of ignorance, then the latent desire for a perverted electrosuicide. According to the letter PTB and PUE, in the bathroom there can only be a ceiling lamp in a waterproof design. But in the spirit and essence of the same PTB and PUE, the power supply to the bathroom can be organized as follows:

• Replace the boiler and fan power cords with long ones so that they last through a hole in the wall to sockets in the kitchen or in the room adjacent to the bathroom. The boiler is not supplied with a regular cord, and the loss of a guarantee for an inexpensive fan is not a big problem, especially since almost 100% of the guaranteed return of fans is reduced to non-warranty cases. Of course - the cords are three-core, with a protective conductor.
• Purchase an extension cord without a cord, but with grounding contacts (euro), for three sockets, with figured holes in the back for hanging on the wall, and supply it with a three-core cord as well.
• Lead all three cords through a hole in the wall in the corner above the plinth into the kitchen, or an adjacent room, supply with euro plugs, and put in a PVC box: it will not catch your eye in the corner and below.
• The boiler plug is plugged into the outlet “permanently” - nowhere in any rules is there a time limit for plugging the plug into the outlet. Also, the fan plug, if it is “intelligent” and is triggered by temperature and humidity.
• The extension cord is hung in the bathroom on self-tapping screws in dowels.
• The washing machine is connected to the extension cord permanently. In the remaining two sockets, you can turn on the light frame of the mirror and the hair dryer.
• The extension plug plugs into an outlet in an adjacent room as needed.

Thus, in the bathroom there will be no exposed ends under voltage all the time, and if elementary precautions are observed, the danger of electric shock will be reduced to zero. And according to the PUE and PTB, an extension cord, even with a cord in a box and hung on the wall, is just an extension cord, not a socket.

Toilet

In the toilet, as well as in the bathroom, only one lighting branch for the ceiling lamp will go. Toilet and bathroom lamps can be powered in series on one branch: electricians do not find fault.

Kitchen

For the kitchen, therefore, you will need two branches of wiring: for the bathroom and for your own needs. If the bathroom is separated from the kitchen, then the branch for the bathroom will go to the room adjacent to it, but we will describe it here.

The wire cross section is 4 sq. mm and the protective automatics for both branches are the same and are described above. But the connection points are different: for your own branch of the kitchen, you need not one, as for the bathroom, but two triple sockets. A dishwasher, an electric oven, a food processor and spotlights will be permanently included in them. Powering the halogens on the underside of the hanging cabinet with a separate branch, as is sometimes recommended, is uneconomical and incorrect according to the PUE.

One of the remaining points will go under the kitchen fan, and the extension cord, suspended, like in a bathroom, on a wall or on a closet, is constantly turned on. It can include a toaster, a vacuum cleaner when cleaning, etc. The refrigerator is plugged into an additional group socket on the opposite wall.

It is desirable to place the sockets of the bathroom and the main group behind the lower kitchen cabinet close to the countertop, but away from the sink. If the bottom cabinet has a back wall, cut an opening in it. For the passage of cords, cut off the back corners of the tabletops - and it is not visible, and the cords pass freely.

The lighting branch to the kitchen is the same as everywhere else.

Hallway and corridor

Two branches are needed here: for an outlet and for light. If the corridor is long and two lighting points are needed in it, then the one closest to the outlet is made in the form of a sconce and powered from it. And the far point will already be a ceiling lamp, powered by its branch.

Children's

The PUE requires for children's institutions the location of sockets and switches at a height of at least 180 cm from the floor. But this applies only to institutions, and the child will grow up, and the room will remain with him.

If a beloved child shows an increased interest in technology from a tender age, the socket in the nursery must be installed with a protective disk. From a socket with a key-locked lid, a petty personality can puff up and suppress inclinations in itself, which, perhaps, will become the key to success in life in the future.

living rooms

Without going into the intricacies of topology, let's say right away: 2N + 1 branches are enough to power ceiling lights and two groups of sockets in living rooms, where N is the number of rooms. Let's explain on the example of a three-room apartment:

1. Living room - 1 branch of the main outlet group, 1 - additional, 1 - lighting.
2. Bedroom - 1 branch of the main group, 1 lighting. An additional group is powered through the wall from an additional group in the living room.
3. Children's - 1 branch of the main group, 1 lighting. The additional group is powered through the wall from the additional bedroom group.
4. From the bedroom or nursery, depending on the layout, an additional kitchen group is fed through the wall.

In total, a 2-3 room apartment will need 12-15 branches, including air conditioning. The branch for the air conditioner should end in a socket, although it is a stationary device. For two reasons: for safety and ease of maintenance, and because the split is equipped with a regular molded cord, cutting off which, we lose the warranty.

How high will the sockets be?

The optimal height of the sockets is 25-35 cm from the floor. It is quite convenient to reach for them, they do not catch the eye, they do not interfere with furniture. The exception is the air conditioner outlet. It is placed higher so that its cord reaches out and does not hang out in plain sight. The excess cord can be rolled into a coil and pushed onto the wall unit body from above; the height of the placement of sockets is nowhere and is not regulated in any way.

Do not try to "wire out" beyond measure - this will only reduce the reliability of the wiring. Two groups, one double each, is sufficient. In extreme cases, a triple socket is placed in one seat, but this cannot be built-in.

Tools and materials

You will need the following tool to replace the wiring:

• Perforator with a drill for concrete 16-20 mm, a core drill 90-100 mm, a chisel for concrete 25-30 mm and a set of drills, also for concrete.
• Bulgarian with a circle on the stone.
• Soldering iron for 40-60 watts.
• Phase indicator.
• Tester multimeter.
• Pliers, screwdrivers and side cutters with insulated handles.
• Flashlight.
• Mounting knife.
• Construction level and a cord for beating the route of strobes.
• Spatula for alabaster putty.
• Portable electric lamp.

Materials should be discussed separately.

Terminal blocks

The described method of replacing electrical wiring eliminates its twisting and soldering along the length, and the wiring is absolutely resistant to jamming. All connections will be made in the input board (VSH) at the terminal blocks and at the end points. Terminal blocks are sold in sections of 10 contacts (5 pairs). You will need 3-4 sections; it is better to take three at once, and it is never too late to buy.

When buying, pay attention to the case material - polyethylene is bad, any other will do. And most importantly, two wires with a diameter of 2.5 mm should enter the holes for the wires. It is better to immediately take terminal blocks with rectangular holes, in which the wires are clamped not directly with a screw, but with a special plate.

Socket boxes

Mounting boxes for sockets and switches (sockets) can be any, but they must have protrusions on the outside to keep them in alabaster.

Cable brand

The "cool" and expensive NYM cable is not so cool at all: according to the manufacturer's specifications, it cannot be laid in wet concrete (and where is the guarantee that the walls will always be dry?) And on the street. Therefore, the choice is domestic cables VVG or PUNP. The first is more expensive, but its isolation is more reliable. But there are no complaints about the apartment wiring laid by PUNP.

All these cables are with solid wires, and this is one of the ways to save money when replacing wiring: stranded ones are much more expensive, and unreliable in the wall. If the wiring will be done by employees, then they will remember you to themselves: the cables are hard, especially PUNP. But it does not pull your pocket. And if you are not touchy and not deprived of a sense of humor, then you can listen: good electricians swear masterfully, no worse than aircraft mechanics.

Video: a little about the types of cable

Old pipe or new corrugation?

It is better to tear out old cable pipes together with wires without any pity: the gaps of the pipes are not designed for double-insulated cable, they are often clogged, the folds are flattened and wrinkled. It is better to hand them over and the old wires after replacing them with scrap metal: at current prices for recycled metal, this will partially or completely pay for the cost of a corrugated hose for cables.

It is better to take a metal corrugation: in the event of an accident, PVC, decomposing in a wall without air access, will release toxic gases. And by grounding the metal corrugations, you will also get shielded wiring, which has a lot of advantages and not a single drawback.

opening shield

The VSC will be located at the site of the old dose. It must be taken in a suitable size: it will have to fit 4 machines, 4 RCDs, 4 terminal blocks and all ends of the wires. The ends of all corrugated hoses will have to enter the mounting openings of the VSC.

From other materials, you will need cotton tape (cloth), a little conductive paste and alabaster.

Let's start replacing

Repair temporary hut

First of all, you need to provide power to the tool for the duration of the repair. To do this, we attach a double or triple socket and a 16 A machine with a piece of cable 4 sq. Mm in advance on a plank or piece of durable plastic. We also stock up on a long one, so that it is enough for all rooms, an extension cord.

Then we de-energize the apartment by unscrewing the plugs or turning off the apartment machine, we manually grind the dose near the meter, remove it and bring the wires from the meter out. We connect a temporary hut to them on a tight twist (twisting for the time of repair is permissible), carefully isolate the joints, and attach the temporary hut to the wall. We supply the apartment and get to work.

Note: for this work, it is better to hire a DEZ electrician, or work extremely carefully - do not touch the wires with parts of the body and clothing, hold the tool only by insulated parts not lower than the restrictive ledge. And it is highly desirable to first familiarize yourself with the PTB and PUE. Remember: voltage can appear on a de-energized wire at any time! Those electricians who could not or did not want to understand this are no longer with us.

Shtroblenie and socket boxes

Strobes must be straight, horizontal or vertical. Inclined and crooked strobes lead to accidents and injuries. Horizontal strobes lead half a meter under the ceiling.

You need to ditch and drill the walls from a goat or from a stepladder with side stops, which outdoor advertisers use. An ordinary stepladder from the side force can tip over, and you will crash down with a heavy, rapidly rotating tool in your hands.

The boundaries of the strobe are first carried out with a grinder to a depth in the diameter of the corrugation and to the width of the perforator bit, then a groove is knocked out with a chisel. Inside the corners, a grinder makes an oblique cut, and a hole is knocked out with a chisel so that the corrugation bend is smooth.

Holes for socket boxes in brick walls are chosen with a crown; in concrete - with a chisel. The crown, hitting the armature, immediately crumbles all over, but is not cheap. The notch under the VSC at the counter is also knocked out with a chisel.

Note: do not choose a double gate for switches. It is much easier to buy a corrugation, which will include two cables.

Gating is a very noisy, dusty and dirty job. Therefore, its time must be agreed with the neighbors. Best of all - in the first half of a weekday, when adults are at work, and mothers with small children are walking.

Wiring

We measure the necessary pieces of cable and corrugation. We tighten the cable into the corrugation on the floor. Then we put socket boxes in the holes on the alabaster pillow. Then we lay the corrugation to the cable in the strobes; we put the ends of the wires into the sockets. Finally, we smear the socket boxes with alabaster to the level of the wall, and we smear the strobes with corrugated pieces in about half a meter.

Note: if the switches are single-pole, then the ends of the zero (blue wire) are immediately twisted, soldered and insulated with three layers of electrical tape with the lower layer entering the wire by 15-20 mm and overlapping the layers by 50%.

At the end of the laying of the wires, we start the input ends of the corrugations in the VSC, lubricate with conductive paste, grab it with a tin clamp on the screw, and connect the screw with a cut of the PE wire to the ground terminal of the VSC. We put the VSC in place, mark the mounting holes, drill them, drive in the dowels.

We de-energize the apartment, turn off the temporary hut. On weight, we introduce wires from the meter and apartment PE into the VSC; we attach PE to the VSC body. We put the VSC in place, fasten it. We carefully isolate the wires from the meter, put them in the VSC housing. It's time to plaster; the apartment is empty.

About wire colors

Zero (neutral, N) is always marked blue or blue color, protective conductor PE – yellow with longitudinal green stripe. Phase wires can be white, red , black, brown. Only single-color wires can be connected to each other. Phase-to-zero transition, phase-to-phase transition and switching on of the circuit breaker in the zero gap are not allowed.

Stucco sideshow

Now it's time for plasterers, painters and wallpaper pasteurists. Or yours, in a new incarnation. But first you need to fill the sockets with foam rubber, paper or rags flush with the wall, and close the VSC with a piece of plastic film, tucking it under the edges of its frame. We also close the meter with a film, but be careful not to break the seal - then you won’t get into trouble with the energy service. If the seal is still damaged, you must immediately inform the power engineers.

Completion

After plastering, painting and wallpaper work, the sockets and the VSC will be worn and sealed, but it will be easy to feel for them and cut the wallpaper along the contour. Having cleaned the remnants of plaster from the sockets, switches, lamps,.

Note: in sockets, it is customary to connect wires so that zero is closer to the window.

Then, on the terminal blocks in the VSC, we assemble the power supply circuit, but we do not connect the input from the meter yet. EACH BRANCH SHOULD BE CHECKED WITH A TESTER FOR A SHORT CIRCUIT BEFORE INTRODUCTION TO THE TERMINAL! Now for a short time we power the apartment, we find the phase and zero coming from the meter with the indicator.

We remove the power, we separate the phase and zero with segments of wire of the corresponding colors along the terminal blocks. ONCE AGAIN WE CHECK FOR A short circuit with the machines turned on, turn off the main machine, power the apartment, turn on the main machine. Didn't "bang"? We check the light, the voltage in the sockets and continue the repair.

Is it possible to do without papers?

As you can see, a good share of the work on replacing electrical wiring falls on paperwork. But any handy man experiences not always justified, but persistent disgust for paperwork. So is it possible to do without papers?

No you can not. Electricians have a trained eye. The very first control of the meter readings will be reported to your own, and then wait for the visit of the inspector. Its result is a large fine and the legalization of work in fact, which is no cheaper.

Replacing wiring in a wooden house

Wiring in a wooden house is a separate issue. It can only be noted that the recommendations to lay a corrugated cable directly along the walls are completely untenable: open wiring has long been banned all over the world.

What can you advise if the house is old and there are no cable channels? Cover the cable hoses with wooden boxes. Whether it will be a decorative imitation of beams and ribs, or a simple plank in the corner - it's up to you, but it will pass with a certain creak for power engineers.

Recently, the load on electrical networks began to increase very strongly, which is associated with the use of a large number of different appliances and modern household appliances. At the same time, wiring in old houses very often burns out, since it is not designed for such loads and has a certain service life. Given this, a completely new wiring diagram in the apartment will be required, capable of not only servicing high-power appliances, but also satisfying all the needs of a modern person.

Where to start

Before starting to create a project, it is necessary to collect a lot of different data about the premises, equipment and personal wishes of future users. Not only the type of cable chosen depends on this, but also the ease of use and even the service life of specific devices.

Furniture arrangement

When a wiring diagram is made in an apartment, it is very important to take into account the type of interior of the premises and the place where the furniture is installed. Otherwise, the sockets can be covered by cabinets, which causes some inconvenience.

With this in mind, you should first prepare a plan of the premises and apply all the interior items to it. At the same time, you should talk with future users to clarify where they want to see sockets, lights and switches. After that, all data is applied to the plan.

Power calculation

Quite often, a wiring diagram is used in an apartment using cables of the same type. However, this solution is neither economically nor technically justified. The fact is that for the lighting system you do not need to use expensive wires with a large cross section, but for some electrical appliances they are simply necessary.

Based on this, experts recommend separating the wiring to junction boxes and rooms using different materials. The VVG 3x2.5 cable uses a typical wiring diagram in the apartment, but then several sockets are hung on it, combined into groups. To drain to the kitchen or rooms with high consumption, you can increase the cross section to 6 square meters. mm.

For the lighting group, you can use the VVG 3x1.5 cable, but if an electric stove is installed in the room, then the cross section is about 6 square meters. mm. The input to the apartment itself is used standard, although if it is possible to replace it, then a 3x10 type material is used. Thus, reasonable savings are manifested without loss of quality and power limitation.

In fact, the modern wiring diagram in the apartment focuses not on the type of room, but on the consumer. Therefore, groups of circuits connecting specific devices with a certain power are very popular. This is quite economical and is considered technically correct.

Wiring type

Before proceeding with the design, you also need to decide on the installation technology. The fact is that the cable can be run both inside the walls and outside, placing it in special boxes. At the same time, the scheme may have certain changes depending on which electrical wiring is selected in the apartment.

When internal networking is used, it is very important to strictly follow the installation rules and enter the location of the wires along the wall in a special diagram. When choosing a method of arrangement in special boxes that are mounted on the surface, certain deviations from accepted standards are allowed, and a detailed diagram begins to lose its need.

There is also an additional electrical wiring in the apartment. The ceiling scheme, for example, solves a lot of problems at once, ranging from ease of placement to material savings. However, such technical solutions require special rooms or special finishing of the surfaces themselves.

Wiring rules

It should be noted right away that a complete list of rules and technical requirements is indicated in special documentation and approved by GOST. However, if you make a do-it-yourself wiring diagram in an apartment and there is no relevant literature at hand, then you should follow the most important of the instructions.

1. All switches are fed from top to bottom, and sockets from below. They are located at a height of at least 50 cm from the floor. In this case, there should not be any obstacles that would block access to the device.
2. Switches are usually located at the entrance to the room on the opposite wall from the opening side. Some types of such products are mounted right next to some interior items, creating a certain level of comfort.
3. All wires are bred around the room only horizontally and vertically. The angle of rotation will then be 90 degrees. There should not be any diagonal bends, even if this will save on material.
4. The wiring hidden in the wall must be applied to the installation plan indicating the distance from the walls and ceiling. This will help a lot when making repairs in the room.
5. A typical wiring diagram in a Khrushchev apartment may suggest that a cable with a small cross section will go to the input to the room. However, if the maximum power drawn is above the limit of the conductor, then it will need to be replaced.
6. A certain distance must be maintained between wires and various structural elements. For example, from the ceiling to the cable, it should be 15 cm, from the floor - at least 20 cm, and from the gas pipe no closer than 40 cm, but only in relation to horizontal branches. If we are talking about a vertical arrangement, then they are installed no closer than 10 cm from openings and corners.
7. Connection of conductors from different metal is not allowed. The fact is that under load they begin to oxidize and collapse. Therefore, if there is an urgent need for such a connection, then it is produced through a special coupling.
8. The connection of the wire or its wiring is carried out only in special boxes, which are installed in each room at the places of taps. Given this, the wiring diagram in the apartment of a panel house is made with a minimum number of branches in order to install such products less. In such structures, this is associated with certain difficulties.
9. Installation of a socket in the toilet is prohibited, and when deciding to install it in the bathroom, it is better to use an understanding transformer or special protective devices specially designed for this purpose.
10. The distance between two cables that are laid parallel to each other must not be less than 3 mm. At the same time, they are mounted in a separate protection in the form of boxes or corrugations.

Input

It is from this moment that the wiring in the apartment begins. At the same time, the scheme often misses this point, since it refers to installation in the entrance or on the landing. At the same time, its special services are performed with the subsequent installation of the counter.

The design of this section of the chain should be entrusted to professionals who are directly related to such companies. They will not only draw up all the necessary documentation, but also help you choose the right material by installing it. However, it is immediately worth noting that their services are usually a bit overpriced, but if they issue an executive scheme with a signature after that, then these costs are quite justified.

The master must be informed about the maximum power it is planned to serve the lines. This is necessary so that the wiring diagram in a one-room apartment or other room has the correct automata at the input, a cable of the required section and, if necessary, other protective shutdown or grounding devices.

Project production

A typical wiring diagram in an apartment of the 504 series has become the standard for many masters. The fact is that it is this layout, which many people do not like with its simplicity and the combination of several rooms, that allows the best and most economical division into consumer groups. Therefore, according to this principle, it is best to make a project.

Lighting

This line is not the most simple and economical. If desired, it can be carried out along the ceiling, making taps only for switches. Even the wiring diagram in a two-room apartment or in the presence of a larger number of rooms brings lighting to a separate machine.

It should be noted right away that the cable for such work is used with a cross section of 1.5 for copper. However, if we take into account the fact that recently many users use energy-saving lamps, then this is too much. If it is planned to use lighting devices that consume 24 Volts, then a transformer can be installed in the line, from which a separate network will be conducted.

It is best to use a cable with a cross section of 1.5, spreading it to the box and making branches to the devices from it. At the same time, on the project itself, these circuits are displayed in a separate color, trying also to select the wire that will be highlighted.

Sockets

Usually sockets are installed in the room according to the formula 1 piece per 6 square meters. However, it is better to focus on the personal preferences of users and their needs. At the same time, all mounting points can be combined into one system, reducing to a single bag.

On the plans, such lines are marked in red, indicating the installation locations. At the same time, some projects combine sockets even through an interior partition, as often suggested by the wiring diagram in the Khrushchev apartment. Photos of this arrangement are made precisely in houses of this type or when using plasterboard walls.

By creating a separate line for sockets, you can immediately take care of grounding. However, you need to remember that it must be connected to the system of the whole house.

For these works, a cable with a cross section of 2.5 copper is used. This is quite enough even for short-term use of powerful electrical appliances in the form of irons, coffee makers, tools or a small air heater.

Separate lines of stationary equipment

Quite often in modern apartments you can find electrical appliances such as a water heater, air conditioner, electric battery or stove. All of them have a fairly large power and need a separate line. At the same time, it is always worth having one outlet in the apartment that can work quietly even with a welding machine.

It should be said right away that each of these devices must be connected separately, without combining them with each other. They also make separate machines for them, which will be able to control their work in accordance with the power of a particular product.

If it is planned to install electric heating batteries in the apartment, then the system for their connection requires a margin of safety in terms of power even for the input cable. Some companies involved in the installation of such equipment do not specifically indicate the cost of such wiring, since it is quite large and requires a separate approach to the choice of materials. However, if the cross section of the input cable allows you to add more load, then everything is quite simple, and you just need to draw a separate line with a connection through the machine.

1. The old apartment wiring diagram, examples of which can be found in houses built before the 80s and 90s, involves the use of aluminum cables and wires. However, this material is used very rarely in modern construction, since copper conductors have long proven their practicality, durability and quality. Therefore, it is best to pay attention to these products.
2. The location of sockets and switches should not only be safe, but also convenient for users. Therefore, it is necessary to determine the place of their installation, as well as the height and quantity, individually for each mounting point.
3. Usually, only the simplest wiring diagram is created, and all work is carried out taking into account the installation rules and additional drawings or sketches.
4. Some experts, to simplify the work, transfer the scheme or its individual elements directly to the surface of the walls and ceiling. This makes it possible to imagine the location of all nodes and mounting boxes and choose the most suitable place.
5. When creating such projects, it is necessary to remember that there may be other wired systems in the room. For example, in a modern house or apartment, fire and alarm alarms, a telephone line and the Internet, as well as satellite or cable TV are often installed. Given this, it is necessary to completely eliminate the impact of these conductors on each other.
6. It is best to arrange the wiring in boxes or special channels, since they can always be accessed or connected to a branch with the installation of a new box. However, if it is not planned to cover the walls with drywall, then the creation of special niches or routes will only take extra time and space. In such cases, a strobe will be the most optimal solution.
7. Self-manufacturing of channels for cable laying is a rather laborious process. Therefore, when making it, it is recommended to use a special tool or nozzle. However, it must be remembered that this process is associated with the appearance of a large amount of dust, which means that it is worth working in a ventilated area and using personal protective equipment.

Conclusion

Given the complexity of such work, it is worth entrusting their work to specialists. At the same time, it should be noted that in some buildings and social facilities, only qualified craftsmen with the appropriate education and certificate are allowed to create such projects and schemes. This also applies to the installation of the entire system and its further maintenance.

There is no standard wiring diagram for a 3-room apartment as such. Even each typical project of houses differs from each other not only in layout, but also in wiring diagrams. Like you, most tenants are not comfortable with these minimum-need schemes.

Standard can only be a wiring diagram for the apartment, consisting of separate lighting power groups and power outlets through separate circuit breakers connected in series with residual current devices (RCDs).

I can offer you an option that I usually offer to customers who want to completely redo the wiring of their apartment.

Even if the customer does not want to bother with diagrams and programs, another option is possible: take a chalk or pencil in your hand and mark on the walls in a place in each room:

• location of switches for zonal and general lighting, floor heating;
• locations of BRAs, chandeliers, spotlights, air conditioners, forced ventilation and exhaust hoods - in these places it will be necessary to make wire outlets for these devices;
• location of sockets (indicating their number) power and low-current (television, telephone, computer);
• it will not be superfluous, if you have already started repairs, to lay the wiring of the security alarm with outlets for motion sensors, door openings, glass breaking and outlet to the control panel.

When marking, you need to take into account that usually power and low-voltage sockets are installed at a height of 30 cm or above the desktop, switches - at a height of 80-90 cm (I always advise mounting an additional socket near the switch in the same frame at the entrance to the room - this is convenient to turn on vacuum cleaner for cleaning, BRA is most convenient to cling at a height of 200-220cm.

Now let's start marking the junction (switching) boxes and wires for laying wires. Here, too, you need to follow certain rules:

In the future, this will give you the opportunity to accurately determine the location of boxes and wires, which will allow you to quickly deal with possible breakdowns in the electrical wiring and when hanging TVs, paintings, carpets, shelves on the walls ... do not damage the electrical wiring.

In the corridor (at the entrance) do not forget to mark out where the machine shield will be located (not lower than 1.5m from the floor), a bell (usually above the door), an intercom, an intercom or a video peephole.

When typing the wiring diagram, we divide the wiring into several separate groups. These can be separate outlet lines:

• kitchen;
• bathroom;
• dishwasher;
• washing machine;
• Dryer;
• air conditioner;
• boiler;
• fridge;
• common sockets.

The main and zonal lighting and floor heating are displayed in separate groups.

If you recruit and connect the circuit yourself, I will give you one useful piece of advice: in order to avoid a short circuit (short circuit) and not make trouble, temporarily connect a control in series to each line before connecting.

If there is an error in the circuit, the light will light up when voltage is applied, if everything is done correctly, the control will not respond. When checking the lighting line, the light bulb will shine at half-glow, as it will be connected in series with a chandelier or, for example, with a wall lamp.

Even 15 - 20 years ago, the load on the power grid was relatively small, but today the presence of a large number of household appliances has provoked an increase in loads at times. Old wires are far from always able to withstand heavy loads and over time there is a need to replace them. Laying electrical wiring in a house or apartment is a matter that requires certain knowledge and skills from the master. First of all, this concerns knowledge of the rules for wiring electrical wiring, the ability to read and create wiring diagrams, as well as skills in electrical installation. Of course, you can do the wiring with your own hands, but for this you must adhere to the rules and recommendations below.

Wiring Rules

All construction activities and building materials are strictly regulated by a set of rules and requirements - SNiP and GOST. As for the installation of electrical wiring and everything related to electricity, you should pay attention to the Rules for the Arrangement of Electrical Installations (abbreviated PUE). This document prescribes what and how to do when working with electrical equipment. And if we want to lay electrical wiring, then we will need to study it, especially the part that relates to the installation and selection of electrical equipment. The following are the basic rules that should be followed when installing electrical wiring in a house or apartment:

• key electrical components such as distribution boxes, meters, sockets and switches should be easily accessible;
• installation of switches is carried out at a height of 60 - 150 cm from the floor. The switches themselves are located in places where the open door does not prevent access to them. This means that if the door opens to the right, the switch is on the left side and vice versa. The wire to the switches is laid from top to bottom;
• sockets are recommended to be installed at a height of 50 - 80 cm from the floor. This approach is dictated by flood safety. Also, sockets are installed at a distance of more than 50 cm from gas and electric stoves, as well as heating radiators, pipes and other grounded objects. The wire to the sockets is laid from the bottom up;
• the number of sockets in the room must correspond to 1 pc. for 6 m2. The kitchen is an exception. It is equipped with as many sockets as necessary to connect household appliances. Installation of sockets in the toilet is prohibited. For sockets in the bathroom outside, a separate transformer is equipped;
• wiring inside or outside the walls is carried out only vertically or horizontally, and the installation location is displayed on the wiring plan;
• wires are laid at a certain distance from pipes, ceilings and other things. For horizontal, a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the floor beams and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling is required. From the floor, the height is 15 - 20 cm. Vertical wires are placed at a distance of more than 10 cm from the edge of the door or window opening. The distance from the gas pipes must be at least 40 cm;
• when laying external or hidden wiring, it is necessary to ensure that it does not come into contact with the metal parts of building structures;
• when laying several parallel wires, the distance between them must be at least 3 mm or each wire must be hidden in a protective box or corrugation;
• wiring and connection of wires is carried out inside special junction boxes. Connection points are carefully isolated. The connection of copper and aluminum wire to each other is strictly prohibited;
• grounding and neutral wires are bolted to the devices.

Project and wiring diagram

Work on laying electrical wiring begins with the creation of a project and a wiring diagram. This document is the basis for future house wiring. Creating a project and a scheme is quite a serious matter and it is better to entrust it to experienced professionals. The reason is simple - the safety of those living in a house or apartment depends on it. Project creation services will cost a certain amount, but it's worth it.

Those who are used to doing everything with their own hands will have to, adhering to the rules described above, as well as having studied the basics of electrics, independently make a drawing and calculations for the loads on the network. There are no particular difficulties in this, especially if there is at least some understanding of what electric current is, and what are the consequences of careless handling of it. The first thing you need is the symbols. They are shown in the photo below:

Using them, we make a drawing of the apartment and outline lighting points, installation locations for switches and sockets. How many and where they are installed is described above in the rules. The main task of such a scheme is to indicate the installation location of devices and wires. When creating a wiring diagram, it is important to think in advance where, how much and what household appliances will be.

The next step in creating the circuit will be the wiring to the connection points on the circuit. At this point it is necessary to dwell in more detail. The reason is the type of wiring and connection. There are several such types - parallel, serial and mixed. The latter is the most attractive due to the economical use of materials and maximum efficiency. To facilitate the laying of wires, all connection points are divided into several groups:

• lighting of the kitchen, corridor and living rooms;
• toilet and bathroom lighting;
• power supply of sockets in living rooms and corridors;
• power supply for kitchen sockets;
• power supply socket for electric stove.

The above example is just one of many lighting group options. The main thing to understand is that if you group the connection points, the amount of materials used is reduced and the circuit itself is simplified.

Important! To simplify the wiring to the sockets, the wires can be laid under the floor. Wires for overhead lighting are laid inside the floor slabs. These two methods are good to use if you do not want to ditch the walls. In the diagram, such wiring is marked with a dotted line.

Also in the wiring project, the calculation of the estimated current strength in the network and the materials used are indicated. The calculation is performed according to the formula:

I=P/U;

where P is the total power of all devices used (Watts), U is the mains voltage (Volts).

For example, a 2 kW kettle, 10 60 W bulbs, a 1 kW microwave, a 400 W refrigerator. Current strength 220 volts. As a result (2000+(10x60)+1000+400)/220=16.5 Amps.

In practice, the current strength in the network for modern apartments rarely exceeds 25 A. Based on this, all materials are selected. First of all, this concerns the cross section of the wiring. To facilitate the selection, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable:

The table shows the extremely accurate values, and since the current strength can fluctuate quite often, a small margin is required for the wire or cable itself. Therefore, all wiring in an apartment or house is recommended to be made of the following materials:

• wire VVG-5 * 6 (five cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a three-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
• wire VVG-2 * 6 (two cores and a cross section of 6 mm2) is used in houses with a two-phase power supply to connect the lighting shield to the main shield;
• wire VVG-3 * 2.5 (three cores and a cross section of 2.5 mm2) is used for most of the wiring from the lighting panel to junction boxes and from them to sockets;
• wire VVG-3 * 1.5 (three cores and a cross section of 1.5 mm2) is used for wiring from junction boxes to lighting points and switches;
• wire VVG-3 * 4 (three cores and a cross section of 4 mm2) is used for electric stoves.

To find out the exact length of the wire, you will have to run a little around the house with a tape measure, and add another 3-4 meters of stock to the result. All wires are connected to the lighting panel, which is installed at the entrance. Protection circuit breakers are mounted in the shield. Usually this is an RCD for 16 A and 20 A. The former are used for lighting and switches, the latter for sockets. For an electric stove, a separate RCD is installed at 32 A, but if the power of the stove exceeds 7 kW, then an RCD is installed at 63 A.

Now you need to calculate how many sockets and distribution boxes you need. Everything is pretty simple here. Just look at the diagram and make a simple calculation. In addition to the materials described above, various consumables will be required, such as electrical tape and PPE caps for connecting wires, as well as pipes, cable channels or boxes for electrical wiring, socket boxes.

Installation of electrical wiring

There is nothing super complicated in the work on the installation of electrical wiring. The main thing during installation is to follow the safety rules and follow the instructions. All work can be done alone. From the installation tool, you will need a tester, a puncher or a grinder, a drill or a screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers and a Phillips and slotted screwdriver. A laser level would be helpful. Since without it it is quite difficult to make vertical and horizontal markings.

Important! When carrying out repairs with the replacement of wiring in an old house or apartment with hidden wiring, you must first find and, if necessary, remove the old wires. For these purposes, a wiring sensor is used.

Marking and preparation of channels for electrical wiring

We start installation with markup. To do this, using a marker or pencil, we put a mark on the wall where the wire will be laid. At the same time, we observe the rules for placing wires. The next step is to mark the places for the installation of lighting fixtures, sockets and switches and a lighting panel.

Important! In new houses, a special niche is provided for the lighting shield. In the old ones, such a shield is simply hung on the wall.

Having finished with the markup, we proceed either to the installation of wiring in an open way, or to the chasing of walls for hidden wiring. First, with the help of a perforator and a special nozzle of the crown, holes are cut out for the installation of sockets, switches and junction boxes. For the wires themselves, strobes are made using a grinder or a puncher. In any case, there will be a lot of dust and dirt. The depth of the groove of the strobe should be about 20 mm, and the width should be such that all wires fit freely into the strobe.

As for the ceiling, there are several options for resolving the issue with the placement and fixing of the wiring. The first - if the ceiling is suspended or suspended, then all the wiring is simply fixed to the ceiling. The second - a shallow strobe is made for wiring. The third - the wiring is hidden in the ceiling. The first two options are extremely simple to implement. But for the third, some explanations will have to be made. In panel houses, ceilings with internal voids are used, it is enough to make two holes and stretch the wires inside the ceiling.

Having finished with the gating, we proceed to the last stage of preparation for wiring. Wires to bring them into the room must be pulled through the walls. Therefore, you will have to punch holes with a puncher. Usually such holes are made in the corner of the premises. We also make a hole for the wire plant from the switchboard to the lighting panel. Having finished the wall chasing, we begin the installation.

Installation of open wiring

We begin installation with the installation of a lighting shield. If a special niche was created for it, then we place it there, if not, then we simply hang it on the wall. We install an RCD inside the shield. Their number depends on the number of lighting groups. The shield assembled and ready for connection looks like this: in the upper part there are zero terminals, grounding terminals at the bottom, automatic machines are installed between the terminals.

Now we start the wire VVG-5 * 6 or VVG-2 * 6 inside. From the side of the switchboard, the electric wiring is connected by an electrician, so for now we will leave it without connection. Inside the lighting panel, the input wire is connected as follows: we connect the blue wire to zero, the white wire to the upper contact of the RCD, and connect the yellow wire with a green stripe to ground. RCD automata are interconnected in series at the top using a jumper from a white wire. Now let's move on to the wiring in an open way.

On the lines outlined earlier, we fix boxes or cable channels for electrical wiring. Often, with open wiring, they try to place the cable channels themselves near the plinth, or vice versa, almost under the very ceiling. We fix the wiring box with self-tapping screws in increments of 50 cm. We make the first and last hole in the box at a distance of 5 - 10 cm from the edge. To do this, we drill holes in the wall with a puncher, hammer the dowel inside and fix the cable channel with self-tapping screws.

Another distinctive feature of open wiring are sockets, switches and distribution boxes. All of them are hung on the wall, instead of being walled in. Therefore, the next step is to install them in place. It is enough to attach them to the wall, mark the places for fasteners, drill holes and fix them in place.

Next, we proceed to the wiring. We start by laying the main line and from the sockets to the lighting panel. As already noted, we use the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire for this. For convenience, we start from the connection point towards the shield. We hang a label on the end of the wire indicating what kind of wire and where it comes from. Next, we lay the wires VVG-3 * 1.5 from switches and lighting fixtures to junction boxes.

Inside the junction boxes, we connect the wires using PPE or carefully insulate them. Inside the lighting panel, the main wire VVG-3 * 2.5 is connected as follows: brown or red wire - phase, connected to the bottom of the RCD, blue - zero, connected to the zero bus at the top, yellow with a green stripe - ground to the bus at the bottom. With the help of a tester, we “ring” all the wires in order to eliminate possible errors. If everything is in order, we call an electrician and connect to the switchboard.

Installation of hidden electrical wiring

Hidden wiring is quite simple. A significant difference from the open one is only in the way the wires are hidden from the eyes. The rest of the steps are almost the same. First, we install a lighting shield and RCDs, after which we start and connect the input cable from the side of the switchboard. We also leave it unconnected. This will be done by an electrician. Next, we install distribution boxes and socket boxes inside the niches made.

Now let's move on to the wiring. We are the first to lay the main line from the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire. If it was planned, then we lay the wires to the sockets in the floor. To do this, we put the VVG-3 * 2.5 wire into a pipe for electrical wiring or a special corrugation and lay it to the point where the wire is output to the sockets. There we place the wire inside the strobe and put it into the socket. The next step will be laying the VVG-3 * 1.5 wire from switches and lighting points to junction boxes, where they are connected to the main wire. We isolate all connections with PPE or electrical tape.

At the end, we “ring” the entire network with the help of a tester for possible errors and connect it to the lighting panel. The connection method is similar to that described for open wiring. Upon completion, we close the strobes with gypsum putty and invite an electrician to connect it to the switchboard.

Laying electricians in a house or apartment for an experienced craftsman is quite an easy task. But for those who are not well versed in electrics, you should take the help of experienced professionals from start to finish. This, of course, will cost money, but this way you can protect yourself from mistakes that can lead to a fire.