What to do if the button of the toilet bowl sticks. Do-it-yourself repair of the toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button Repair of the toilet cistern valve with a button

Have you found that your toilet cistern has failed to do its job? Agree that the toilet has long been one of the most necessary types of plumbing equipment for a comfortable human life, so its breakdown can hardly be called a joyful event. Do you want to repair the toilet cistern with your own hands, but do not know where to start and where to look for the problem?

We will show you how to find the source of trouble and fix it on your own - the article outlines ways to troubleshoot common problems. The procedure for dealing with all popular breakdowns is considered in detail.

Repair tips are provided with photographs that will help you understand in detail the device of the drain mechanism. To help the home master, video recommendations are given for disassembling the tank, eliminating leaks and replacing fittings.

Before you start repairing equipment, you need to get acquainted with its device and the principle of operation. The toilet itself consists of a bowl and a container filled with water. It is the container that is called the drain tank.

The water in it enters the bowl, where it washes its contents into the sewer system. The drain system is activated by pressing a lever or a button. It depends on the hardware model.

On sale you can find drain tanks of various types. There are several classifications of such equipment. According to the location of the tank relative to the bowl, two main categories are distinguished.

Completely separate structures. It is assumed that in this case the tank and the bowl are separated. This is the very first of the existing options for the toilet. According to the height of the tank, it can have different modifications.

The high position suggests that the waste cistern is a meter or more from the bowl. The elements are interconnected by a pipe. This option has recently been the most common.

Separate design with a low-lying tank. In this case, the mechanism for draining water can be not only lever

This is because the high location of the cistern guarantees high speed and good pressure of water entering the flush. Today, such models are used less frequently.

Modifications with a cistern hidden in the attic or under a false ceiling are popular.

Another variety - built-in cisterns, which are equipped with hanging toilets. They are fixed in a special installation.

The low location of the tank suggests that it is mounted on the wall at a short distance from the bowl. They are connected by a short pipe. Drain fittings are located on the tank body.

Since the height from which the water merges is less, its speed and pressure are somewhat lower.

Drain tank compact toilets placed directly on the bowl. To do this, it is equipped with a special shelf. Such models are very convenient in installation and operation, but the pressure of water and its speed during flushing are minimal.

Compacts are produced with tanks of trapezoidal and triangular shape. Such toilets are called corner. They fit very well into the corners of the rooms, it is especially convenient to install them in small bathrooms.

Monoblock toilets. The design is a toilet bowl, in the body of which a drain tank is built. This equipment is very easy to install. It is only required to bring water and connect the device to the sewer.

This can be considered the main advantage of the monoblock. When serious breakdowns occur in any part of the monoblock, it most often has to be changed, since the monolithic design most often prevents a full repair.

You can read more about the different types of toilet bowls.

The device of various drain mechanisms

Inside each drain tank there is a mechanism for draining water.

Today there are several varieties of this design:

• Lever. It is a lever, by pressing which the descent of water into the bowl is activated. It is mounted in separate toilet bowls, in tanks with the top and bottom arrangement.
• Pneumatic. The trigger mechanism is activated by pressing the button of the pneumatic chamber, which is connected to the exhaust valve by means of a flexible air duct.
• stock. To open the drain valve, it is necessary to lift the vertical rod, which is displayed on the top of the tank cap.
• Push-button. The drain mechanism in this model is started by pressing a button on the lid of the drain tank. There are two-button variations, in which one of the buttons is responsible for draining half of the tank, the second - for draining all the water in the tank.

All tanks are filled with water strictly up to a certain level, after which their filling automatically stops.

Depending on the method of supplying water to the tank, valves of various types can be built in. Floatless valves can be bottom and side.

In this case, there is a special chamber in the design, which in its appearance resembles an inverted glass.

The principle of operation of the device is based on the Archimedean force. It changes its value depending on the degree of filling of the tank and changes the position of the chamber that shuts off the water supply.

The side float valve is either diaphragm or piston type. In any case, it shuts off the water when a certain volume of liquid enters the tank.

All fittings can be presented as independent interchangeable elements or as a single structural set.

Toilet cistern with bottom water connection. The most hassle-free and silent option, therefore it is especially popular in city apartments

According to the type of connection of water fittings, all drain tanks are divided into two groups.

• Side. The eyeliner is connected on the right or on the left. The tank is usually equipped with two holes. Non-working is blocked by a special plug. The main disadvantages of such tanks are the noise when filling the tank with water and the unaesthetic connection of the water pipe, which cannot be disguised.
• Lower. The water supply pipe is connected from the bottom of the tank. This way you can hide the plumbing fittings. In addition, when filling the tank with water, minimal noise is created.

Each of the varieties of flush tanks finds its consumers and is used in various models of toilet bowls.

The main elements of the drain tank

Structurally, all variations of drain tanks are arranged approximately the same. Each of them has three main mechanisms.

Drain or stop valves designed to regulate the flow of water into the toilet bowl. Prevents leakage of fluid from the reservoir.

In the process of filling the container, the water in it helps to ensure that the shut-off valve is pressed against the drain hole as tightly as possible, which prevents water from draining into the bowl.

If there is a constant leakage of water, this may be due to a malfunction of the shut-off valve. Read more about the stop valves of the drain tank.

filling valve combined with a water supply device. Designed to control the level of liquid in the drain tank. Stops the water supply as soon as it reaches a certain level.

To determine the amount of liquid in the tank, a float connected by a rod to the filling valve is used.

Regardless of where the filler is located - the valve is on the side or below - the float is placed vertically in the tank. In older models - horizontally.

Overflow and drain mechanism represented by fittings equipped with a start button or lever. Designed to prevent overflow of water from the tank when the float valve breaks.

The overflow system is connected to the drain, when the start button is pressed, it is activated. Excess water is discharged into the sewer. An important element of the mechanism -. Water leaks from the tank are most often associated with its functioning.

The float valve in older models was ubiquitous. The float rises with the water entering the tank and closes the valve at a certain level

It must be understood that all common malfunctions of the drain tank are associated with these mechanisms. And to fix the problems, it is these elements that will have to be replaced or adjusted.

If chips or cracks appear on the surface of the tank, most likely it will have to. Despite the claims of manufacturers, most of the modern adhesives used for repairs cannot cope with this task.

Image Gallery

Problem #4 - Internal Reinforcement Wear

It happens that several malfunctions appear at once or the nodes are already very worn out. In this case, it will be easiest to change the fittings - the inside of the toilet bowl. You should start by studying the device of the tank.

As we already know, despite the general principle of operation, drain tanks have a large number of modifications. Let's consider in detail the replacement of the internal fittings of the drain tank with the bottom connection.

If the body of the drain tank is intact, and the “insides” do not work, the best way out is to completely replace the internal fittings

Before starting work, we will prepare pliers and wrenches. Next, we sequentially perform the following operations:

1. Turn off the water supply to the tank and drain the water from it.
2. Open the tank lid. If it is with a button, then first we dismantle it. Depending on the model, for this we will need to either unscrew it or remove special clips.
3. Disconnect the water supply hose.
4. We turn the upper part of the drain column at a right angle and remove it.
5. We find the fixing bolts holding the tank on the toilet, and carefully unscrew them.
6. I put the tank on the toilet.
7. We find the fasteners that fix the drain column and the inlet valve, and unscrew them.
8. We take out the old fittings and prepare a new one.
9. We install everything in the reverse order and put the tank in place.

When installing a new drain column, there are some points to consider. The unit is installed above the outlet and is fixed from below with a special threaded cuff.

The inlet valve, together with the mechanism that regulates the filling of the tank, is placed above the inlet, after which the assembly is fixed at the bottom of the tank with a threaded cuff.

We can suggest that you familiarize yourself with other articles on the wear of the cistern fittings:

Problem #5 - Noise when filling the tank

This is not a breakdown, since all mechanisms are functioning properly. However, filling the tank too loudly most often causes discomfort and I want the tank to fill up quietly.

Tanks with an upper eyeliner usually make noise. To solve this problem, first of all, you need to inspect the inlet. There are models where you can adjust its diameter.

If the filling of the tank is too noisy, it is necessary to reduce the cross-section of the hole. In this case, the water will flow more slowly, but annoying loud sounds will disappear.

A complete set of internal fittings for a flush tank of a modern model can be bought at any specialized plumbing store

If the diameter of the hole cannot be adjusted, you can try to slightly modify the internal structure of the tank.

To do this, you need to find a rubber or plastic tube, the cross section of which must match the diameter of the inlet. The length of the part should be approximately 25-30 cm.

We put the tube on the inlet, fix it so that when water enters it does not break off. Then we lower the second end of the part to the bottom of the tank. Actually, that's all.

Now water will flow into the tank through the tube, which will significantly reduce unpleasant noise. The liquid will no longer fall under pressure from a height, but will immediately fall into the lower part of the tank.

Problem #6 - One or two buttons stuck

This modification is very popular because it saves water. Sometimes her buttons start to sink. In this case, you must first remove the cap from the tank. To do this, the water pipe is blocked, then the tank is emptied.

A two-button flush tank helps save water, so these models are preferred by those who monitor their spending

If this is not the case, check the button shaft. If it is clogged, the parts will not be able to fit into place. In this case, we clean the shaft and install the buttons. If this does not help, you may need to change the entire node.

We carefully dismantle it, purchase a part similar in all characteristics in the store and put it in place. The one-button model is also being repaired.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

How to replace the cistern valve:

Remove the lid from the drain tank with the button:

What to do if a leak is found in the drain tank valve:

Repairing a toilet drain tank is quite simple and accessible to anyone, even a novice plumber. There is nothing complicated in the repair work. Breakdowns of nodes are diagnosed very easily.

If desired, you can quickly and efficiently repair the drain tank or, if the valve is completely out of order, replace it with a new one.

Experts advise novice craftsmen with problems with the tank body (for example, a crack has appeared) not to engage in cosmetic repairs, but to replace the entire tank. Most likely, all the efforts spent on repairs will be ineffective, that is, time and money will be wasted.

If you have already encountered a breakdown of the toilet cistern, please share with our readers what kind of problem you had and how you managed to solve it. Also, in the block with comments, you can ask a question of interest on the topic of the article.

Without such a plumbing device as a toilet, it is already difficult to imagine normal living in an apartment. Only, like any plumbing, it can also fail, and more often this happens very unexpectedly for residents. But you can fix a lot in it with your own hands without calling the master to the house. Adjusting, for example, the button to if it sinks or does not work at all, or completely replacing it with a new one is quite realistic and independently without the involvement of specialists, even for a person who does not have much experience in such work.

The device and principle of operation of push-button tanks

All drain tanks are structurally very similar, the difference is only in the mechanism for starting water. They are a container for storing water needed to drain after using the toilet. Equipped for work with fittings. Consist of:

• filling valve;
• float;
• drain mechanism;
• overflow protection.

The principle of operation of the drain tank is quite simple. When the float is lowered down, water enters through the filling valve, which is responsible for maintaining the liquid level in the tank at a certain level.

Drain tank with button

The float itself is attached to the filling mechanism and directs its work, rising when the tank is filled, and falling when it is empty.

Attention! In addition to the already familiar cisterns in which water is connected from the side, other types of devices are increasingly common today. In them, water is supplied to the tank below. They differ from devices with side connection in the presence of a membrane valve that regulates the water supply.

The drain mechanism is controlled manually using a button on the tank. It is equipped with overflow protection - a mandatory element of the tank, which is adjustable in height when a limit is set in the liquid level. When it is exceeded, it goes immediately into the sewer pipe, without pouring out of the tank.

Types of push-button flush mechanisms

The drain valve is connected to the button on the tank. When you press it, the water drains into the toilet. Drain mechanisms come with:

• one button;
• two buttons.

In the first option, when you press the button, the entire volume of liquid in the tank is drained into the toilet. The button in the second version is divided into two parts. When the small button is pressed, the water is not completely drained. And if you press the big one, it will pour out of the tank into the toilet in full. This separation allows you to save water in the apartment and not overpay for its excessive consumption when draining.

Toilet button malfunctions

Any item is designed for a certain period of use. So the service life of the button in the toilet also has its limits. But it can fail even earlier if the mechanism was originally made with inadequate quality. And if the button began to function poorly as a result of mechanical damage, it may be necessary to completely replace it with a new one.

Toilet cistern button mechanism

As a result of one or another malfunction of the drain mechanism, the button, when pressed, can:

• sticky - you have to press the button more than once to drain the water;
• fall through - the button drops when draining, as if falling inward.

Elimination of breakdowns and malfunctions

When the button sticks and the water needs to be pressed multiple times to drain the water, then the problem is most likely in the stem that connects the drain valve to the descent device. To fix this you need:

• block the access of water to the drain tank and drain the one that is in it;
• open the tank by removing the lid, then unscrew the retaining ring from the part of the button that is inside and remove it. After that, remove the button;
• repair the stem or replace it with a new part;
• after the repair or partial replacement of parts, assemble everything back.

Advice. If the stem needs to be replaced, but it is not possible to immediately supply a new part, you can temporarily replace it with a home-made element made from a piece of thick wire.

In the case when the button fails when pressed, one of the reasons for this may be a broken spring, which returns the mechanism to its original state. This will require replacement of the broken part. Another possible reason for the button to fail may be the wrong choice of its height when adjusting the drain mechanism. To eliminate this, you need to turn off the water supply, drain the one that remains, remove the lid from the tank. Then remove the drain valve. After loosening the latches, adjust the height of the glass, then assemble everything back and check if the system is working normally now.

Double push button for cistern

Replacing the button with a new one

Sometimes it happens that it is not possible to repair a damaged part, or it is no longer repairable. Then you may need to completely replace this button with another one. The new part must fully match the one that broke. If the desired option could not be found on sale, then the drain mechanism itself will have to be changed. To carry out work on replacing the button, you need to remove it with disconnection from the exhaust valve and install a new device. All work is best done with sufficient care so as not to accidentally break other fittings in the tank.

A flush button that sinks, fails, or doesn't work at all usually causes enough inconvenience when using the toilet. Therefore, you should not postpone the solution of such an important issue for a long time, especially since you can try to adjust the system, repair or replace the part yourself. If you can’t cope on your own, it is better to call a specialist to fix the problem.

Dismantling the toilet cistern lid: video

For a comfortable stay of a person, water supply and lighting of the room are necessary, as well as properly working plumbing devices connected to the sewer system. One of the most popular plumbing fixtures are the toilet and cistern. Currently, cisterns are most often equipped with buttons that are responsible for the smooth descent of water into the toilet. The toilet bowl button becomes unusable over time or requires repair. How to do this, read on.

Tank device with a button

The drain tank is a container that stores water for draining. For operation, the tank is equipped with elements. Toilet cistern device with button:

1. drain mechanism. The device connected to the button is responsible for draining the water. In the lower part, the drain mechanism is equipped with a sealed membrane that protects against the formation of water leakage into the toilet bowl;

The drain mechanism can be equipped with:

• single button. Descent of water occurs at the touch of a button. In this case, all the liquid from the tank enters the toilet;

• dual mode button. The button with several modes of operation is divided into two parts: small and large. When using a smaller part, half of the liquid in the tank gets into the toilet. When the water is drained by the greater part of the button, the water is drained completely.

Using a button with two operating modes allows you to save cold water.

1. filling valve responsible for the collection of water in the tank. The filling mechanism is equipped with a float that regulates the level of water in the tank. The mechanism may have:
   • lateral water supply. Most often found in Russian-made cisterns. A distinctive feature of the mechanism is the formation of noise when collecting water;

• bottom water supply. When installing a valve with a bottom connection, it is important to achieve complete tightness of the connection.

All fittings installed in are interconnected. After pressing the button, the water is drained. In this case, the float of the filling valve sinks to the bottom of the tank and opens the inlet valve. Water begins to flow from the water supply and raise the float to the set level. When the container is full, the inlet valve will be automatically closed.

Button repair

The fittings of the tank may become unusable for the following reasons:

• use of low-quality mechanisms. Professional plumbers recommend installing cistern fittings made by companies such as Cersanit, Vidima, Jika;
• natural wear. Any device is designed for a certain number of years of use or number of flush cycles;
• mechanical damage. Careless use may cause damage.

Button malfunctions and solutions

The most common button failures are:

• "sticking" of the button, that is, the flushing of water occurs only after repeatedly pressing the descender;
• failure of the button, that is, the button mechanism descends into the capacity of the drain tank.

Elimination of sticking

If the water is flushed after repeatedly pressing the button, then the malfunction is related to the rod connecting the drain device and the drain mechanism.

To fix the problem, you need:

1. block the flow of water into the tank;
2. remove the tank cover. To do this, first of all, the inside of the button is removed, and then the retaining ring located on the button is unscrewed counterclockwise and removed;

1. the button is removed;

1. stock is being repaired;
2. the system is assembled in reverse order.

The stem is made of plastic. Therefore, repairs most often come down to a complete replacement of the product. For temporary troubleshooting, the stem can be replaced with wire.

Elimination of failure

If the toilet cistern button fails, then the causes of the breakdown may be:

• incorrect setting of the drain device (insufficient button height selected);
• failure of the spring that returns the button to its original position. The problem is solved by replacing the spring.

To set up the drain mechanism, you must:

1. turn off the water supply to the container and completely drain the remaining liquid;
2. remove the drain mechanism (the whole turns to the left until it clicks);
3. press the clamps securing the glass;
4. increase height;

1. install the valve and cover;
2. check if the problem is resolved and repeat the procedure if necessary.

How to adjust the drain mechanism is shown in the video.

Button replacement

If the listed actions do not help to eliminate the malfunction of the tank trigger, then the drain button needs to be replaced. You can work in the following way:

1. remove the button, according to the scheme described in detail above;
2. disconnect the button from the exhaust valve;
3. install a new device.

The new toilet button must fully match the broken device. Otherwise, the drain valve will need to be replaced.

All troubleshooting work on the button must be done very carefully so as not to damage the rest of the fittings. If it is not possible to eliminate the breakdown on your own, then it is more expedient to seek help from specialists.

Breakage of the drain tank is a problem that everyone has encountered. The first thing we do when we discover this trouble is to call the plumber. This is the right decision if you do not understand anything about plumbing and you do not have any tools in the house. But if your hands are growing from the right place, and there is a wrench in the pantry, then why not try to repair the cistern yourself? After all, doing repairs yourself, you save money and improve your skills.
How is the drain tank arranged, what kind of breakdowns does it have, and most importantly, to repair it? You will find answers to these questions in our article.

Before proceeding with active actions, it is necessary to study a little theory and understand how water is drained in the toilet. Any model has two main parts: a bowl that stands on the floor or is fixed on the wall, and a water tank on top. This container is called the "drain tank".

At the heart of the work of draining water is the principle of a water seal. When the lever (button) is pressed, the cork opens, and water is washed off into the riser by gravity.

If you remove the lid on the tank, you will find a mechanism for draining water. It consists of a float, a seal and levers. It is conditionally possible to divide the mechanism of the drain tank into two parts: the water collection system and the drain mechanism.

When the button is released, the drain hole closes and water begins to draw in. The float controls its level and closes the valve at the right time.

Of course, depending on the manufacturer, the design is slightly different, but the meaning remains the same.

Water collection system

The principle of operation of the filling fittings is simple: when the tank becomes empty, it starts the flow of water, when it is full, it stops. A float is required to determine the water level. If there is little or vice versa, a lot of water, you can adjust the desired level yourself. It is recommended to use a volume of 5-7 liters of water.
The fittings that regulate the flow of water can be of several types.

• • With lateral water supply (fittings are located at the top). Basically, such a supply of water to the tank can be found in Russian-made toilet bowls. The mechanism is cheap, but very noisy. On more expensive models, a tube is attached to reduce noise, which supplies water to the bottom.

Drain tank: side feed mechanism device

• With bottom water supply. This type can be found both on foreign models of toilet bowls, and on domestic ones. Thanks to the mechanism, the noise from the water is minimized.

Bottom feed to waste tank

Draining

Push button flush mechanism

The drain mechanism is started either by pressing a button or by pulling out the stem. The most popular push-button version with a lever, which is shown in the photo. In toilets with a hidden cistern, the button is located on the wall. Therefore, the repair of a hanging toilet is less convenient: all actions are carried out after removing the button through a small hole. The video shows the process of dismantling the fittings from the built-in tank (installation).

The button mechanism can be one- and two-mode. In a two-mode drain, there are two buttons: one drains the water completely, and the second - half. This allows you to save water if necessary. Also, a similar mechanism can be implemented with one button, when the drain depends on the degree of pressing.

Preparation for repair

First of all, let's examine the internal mechanism for defects. To do this, remove the top cover, usually it is fixed with a drain button. You need to either simply unscrew it, or pull out the button and unscrew the fastening screw.

Before repairing the drain tank, be sure to shut off the water supply.

Replacement and fastening of parts

After you open the lid, you will see several holes with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm for water supply (maybe only one). In one of them, filling fittings with a membrane valve will be fixed.

The membrane is very sensitive to water quality, so its service life depends on water filters. If there are no filters at all, then it is better to replace the mechanism with a Russian one with a stem valve.

Most often, the issue of repairing a toilet cistern can be solved by a complete replacement of parts. For expensive toilets, it is easy to find a repair kit with a sleeve and a membrane. On cheap models, it is more profitable to buy new fittings, they are not very expensive. The main thing is to choose the desired pipe diameter when buying, usually they are 10, 15 mm, as well as 1/3 and ½ inch.

When replacing, it is necessary to make a sealed joint, so a sealing gasket is put on before fastening. The fittings are pulled together with a tank nut. Tighten them slightly, otherwise cracks may appear.

Decorative plugs are inserted into the remaining free holes. If necessary, you can change the position of the water supply. If the plug is simply inserted into the hole until it clicks, and does not rest on the nut, then no seals are provided in it, so water will flow out in the event of a malfunction.

At the bottom of the tank are holes for attaching to the toilet. Fastening takes place on metal or plastic bolts. Bolts made of brass and stainless steel are best suited for fixing the toilet bowl. Of course, ordinary metal fasteners are stronger than plastic ones, but they quickly rust. Before fastening, washers and rubber gaskets must be put on.

In the center is the largest hole for draining water. The shut-off valve for the drain tank is fastened with a cap washer through the gasket.

Common drain tank failures

The most common failure is the continuous filling and leakage of water from the tank. The reason for this is the following factors:

• float tilt;
• the float mechanism does not work;
• loose shut-off valve, old rubber seal.

The easiest way to solve the first problem, because in this case the toilet will not even require repair of the drain tank - just open the lid and adjust the float. Also, sometimes the shut-off valve does not fit into place, it is also enough just to put it manually into the recess.

The next problem is that the water fills the tank to the limit and does not stop. To check the mechanism, lift the float up to the stop. If the water does not stop, then the float mechanism will need to be replaced.

And the last point is the old sealant. It is very simple to determine such a breakdown: you just need to press the valve with your hand. If the water stops, you will have to replace the seal. Also, sometimes this is due to the too low weight of the locking mechanism. In this case, weights are added inside to make it heavier.

Another common failure is associated with a worn float. Its tightness is broken, and it does not float well, so the water in the tank does not rise to the desired level. You will need to replace the fittings of the drain tank, but you can also fix the float with your own hands. To do this, its hole is sealed with sealant, glue, heated plastic or any other material at hand. You can also look into a plumbing store, perhaps there will be an analogue of this float.

Not very often, but there are such breakdowns with the tank as: leakage of the tank mounting bolts and failure of the water supply valve. To eliminate them, it is enough to change the gaskets and buy a new valve.

The video shows how to repair a toilet cistern with your own hands:

Usually, repairs come down to a maximum of replacing fittings, and this can be done on your own without calling a plumber. The main thing is to choose a quality product and the right size, and then the sound of dripping and gathering water will not interfere.

The design and principle of operation of the drain tank are quite simple, therefore, it is rarely difficult to repair the device.

With some breakdowns of the drain tank, water does not flow to the floor, there is no threat of flooding the neighbors from below. Such malfunctions seem insignificant, but this is exactly until the bill for payment of water supply services arrives.

If a counter is installed, then any failure in the operation of the tank can become a problem! Therefore, the smartest solution is to eliminate it immediately, without waiting for trouble.

Minor difficulties sometimes occur only with improved modern models, in such cases it is worth contacting specialists. Basically, almost any repair of the toilet cistern can be done by hand.

The device of the toilet cistern is quite simple, and almost anyone can cope with its repair, because. it does not require any special skills

In many ways, drain tanks of various designs are similar. The main difference is in the installation method:

• Hanging tanks. Structures of this type are attached to the toilet bowl at a low height and connected with a pipe.
• Toilet bowl compact. The compact cistern is attached directly to the toilet bowl without connecting pipes.
• Built-in tank. Structures of this type are installed in the wall, they are used with hanging toilets.

Regardless of the models, the designs of the cisterns are very similar. Modern devices are convenient in that they can be repaired without disassembling the modules and replacing them entirely

The water supply to the drain tank is carried out either from below or from the side. The side feed device is most often found in domestic-made toilets. Its advantage is a relatively low price, which affects the cost of the entire toilet bowl as a whole.

Bottom water supply is often found in modern domestic and imported designs. Usually these are slightly more expensive models.

Various types of mechanisms can be provided for draining: buttons, rods, levers, chains. The most common option is a button.

It can be located at the top of the structure, and in models with a hidden tank - on the wall. To drain the water, just press it.

Push-button models can only be disassembled after the push-button has been removed. How to remove the lid from a tank of this design is shown in detail in the video:

Buttons in which the water is completely drained after a short single press are called automatic.

Those in which water is drained only while the button is pressed are mechanical. The former are more convenient to use, while the latter save water when flushing the toilet.

There are single and dual-mode push-button drain mechanisms. In models with two buttons, it is possible to drain only half the volume of the tank.

However, there are designs with one button, which in the same way can drain either the full volume of water or half. If the push-button mechanism is equipped with a special auger that causes the water to rotate during the descent, then the toilet bowl is washed more efficiently.

Mechanisms with two buttons are a little more expensive, but the overpayments pay off, because draining in economy mode can reduce water consumption by 20 cubic meters. in year

Water volume adjustment

If desired, you can easily adjust the amount of water collected in the tank. This is necessary if the toilet is poorly flushed or there is too much water and there is a need to reduce its volume.

To change the filling volume, you need to remove the tank cap and follow simple steps. But before proceeding with the adjustment, you first need to deal with the device of the tank.

The video below will help you with this:

Option #1 - for side feed systems

Such mechanisms are equipped with a lever made of thick metal wire. It connects the valve and the float. To raise or lower the float, you need to slightly bend the wire arm.

After that, you should make sure that the right amount of water is collected in the tank. If not, bend the wire a little more. By raising the lever, you can increase the volume of water, lowering - reduce.

This option is only suitable for those tanks in which the float system uses metal.

Many modern models use plastic instead of metal parts. Such levers cannot be bent, but the float itself can be moved along their axis using the mounting screw provided for by the design.

The float can be fixed with a thread or a latch. If a latch is used in the design, then it is squeezed out. To increase the volume of water in the tank, the float is moved closer to the valve body.

As a result, the length of the lever is reduced. If you need to lower the water level, the float is moved further from the body.

This is the simplest design of a cistern with a side water supply. Brass wire is used as a lever. Slightly changing the angle of its inclination, you can reduce the amount of water in the tank. If a meter is installed in the house, this is a great way to save on utility bills.

Option # 2 - in tanks with a bottom supply

If the design is with a bottom water supply, it can be adjusted even more easily than a system with a side supply. The mechanism has a special water level limiter connecting the valve lever and the float. It can be lengthened or shortened.

The float on the limiter is fixed with a thread. To adjust the water level in the tank, you need to change its height with a plastic nut.

The main advantage of bottom feed designs is the ease of installation and maintenance. When repairing or replacing problems are extremely rare

How to diagnose problems?

If the cistern is faulty, it quickly becomes obvious: water either leaks into the toilet bowl or starts dripping onto the floor. Sometimes it happens that the container is not filled.

No matter how ultra-modern and complex the design of the tank may be, breakdowns appear the same in all models.

External leaks are not always immediately visible. It happens that water drips out for weeks, but its amount is so small that the damp areas are not striking. Then the leak can be determined by the appearance of red spots and rust streaks.

If they are, it is worth disassembling the tank and establishing the cause of the breakdown.

If there is no coarse filter, dirt and rust particles constantly enter the tank. They accumulate in the tank and can damage the internal mechanisms of the structure, cause damage

Normally, the tank is filled to a predetermined level, and the rubber bulb is pressed against the drain hole, securely closes it and is held in this position due to water pressure. When you press the descent mechanism, this pear rises and opens the drain hole.

The rubber bulb must be constantly filled with air. To prevent water from getting into it, a special guide tube is provided in the design. It ensures the correct position of the pear in the "saddle".

If the integrity of the pear or tube itself is violated, the mechanism fails.

This is how the rubber pear of the tank should look like, if it is in working order. It should remain elastic and fit well to the saddle.

The first thing to do after disassembling the tank is to inspect the pear. If it has lost its elasticity, cracked, then it is in it that the cause of the leak lies. Worn rubber cannot cover the drain hole well, water leaks into cracks and gaps.

Rubber products of this type cannot be repaired, so the pear should simply be replaced.

If everything is in order with it, you need to make sure that particles of dirt and rust do not get under the rubber, which can also interfere with the normal operation of the pear.

There are cases when you can solve the problem of leakage by simply cleaning the tank. If it turns out that dirt has accumulated under the rubber bulb, it can be removed with a regular sponge. Often this is enough to restore normal operation. It also makes sense for prevention to wipe the walls of the container with a rag and remove plaque.

If the pear is in order, then you should continue to inspect the toilet tank in search of the cause of the leak.

The tank is not filled if:

• inlet hose defective;
• the inlet valve of the float mechanism is worn out.

Water can leak out if:

• the gasket between the tank and the toilet is worn out;
• a leak appeared at the place where the connecting screws were installed.

Internal leaks appear when:

• overflow tube not adjusted;
• valve is defective;
• float has failed.

All these components should be carefully checked, repair, adjust or replace damaged parts. How to disassemble the tank and find these elements is shown in the video:

Problem #1: Water does not enter the tank

How can you fix a toilet cistern if water has stopped flowing into it? It is not difficult. First of all, check the supply hose. It is disconnected from the tank and one end is lowered into a container.

If the water does not flow, you can simply buy and install a new hose.

Most often, the problem lies in the clogging of the narrow part of the valve. For repair, it is enough to empty the tank, turn off the water and unscrew the assembly consisting of a valve, lever and float.

When the parts are removed, a hole will open through which the container is filled. It is very often clogged. You can clean it with a regular needle or wire.

To carry out a complete cleaning, you need to remove the valve from the inlet pipe and wash off the remaining dirt with water.

Sometimes the cause of failure is a tiny piece of scale that has fallen into the hose, or dirt. You can try to rinse or clean it

Problem #2: External Leaks

If an external leak appears, you can repair the toilet bowl with your own hands and not call the master. Usually, problems arise due to a loose fit between the gasket between the toilet bowl and the tank, or if the seals under the screws are worn out.

In the first case, it is enough to remove the tank, check the gasket and, if it has become too hard or cracked, replace it.

It happens that the reason for such a leak is banal - the gasket is not installed correctly. Then it’s enough just to put it in place, or better, change it.

If there is a leak in the place of the connecting screws, then they need to be unscrewed and the rubber seals changed. To do this, it is not even necessary to remove the tank itself.

When choosing new seals, it is better to give preference to cone-shaped rather than flat ones. They adhere much more closely to surfaces.

When tightening the screws after replacing the seals, it is important to achieve an even distribution of forces in order to prevent distortions, otherwise a new leak may appear. To do this, tighten the screws little by little and in turn.

Problem #3: Fixing Internal Leaks

How to fix a cistern if water flows into the toilet bowl? To begin with, it is worth checking the correct setting of the overflow tube. It needs to be lifted a little and see if water is overflowing into the tube.

If yes, then the float valve needs to be repaired. If not, you need to adjust the lever.

Valve problems can arise from debris. You just need to remove it from under the gum.

If the rubber is worn out, you can simply turn it over on the other side, but it is better to change it right away. If the valve is broken, you will have to replace it with a new one.

We offer a video instruction for replacing the fittings of the drain tank:

Problem #4: Tank noise when filling

Noise when filling the tank with water cannot be called a breakdown, because. all mechanisms are correct. However, loud noises can be very annoying, interfere with proper rest.

Most often, the tank is loudly typed immediately after draining the water, then the noise becomes less.

Solving the problem is very simple. To do this, a small piece of rubber or plastic tube is put on the branch pipe of the locking mechanism.

The length should be such that the tube reaches the bottom of the container. After that, the tank will make much less noise.

In addition to such a device, there are other ways to get rid of noise during the operation of the tank. The cardinal solution is to replace the conventional float valve with a stabilizing one with a special chamber. In this case, you can forever forget about the noise and relax in comfort.

Repairing a toilet cistern is a simple procedure. To fix all the malfunctions with your own hands, it is enough to have time, desire and the simplest tools.

However, sometimes there are difficulties with the diagnosis of breakdowns or the repair itself. In this case, it is better not to experiment and call a plumber.