Ventilation
Do-it-yourself built-in wardrobe in the hall. DIY built-in wardrobe made of various materials

Do-it-yourself built-in wardrobe in the hall. DIY built-in wardrobe made of various materials

In many apartments, old, still Soviet-made, furniture that has long gone out of fashion, outdated physically and morally, cluttering up the space of already very small rooms, has been preserved. However, at the same time, it should be noted that most often the material from which it is made has retained good quality, and it can be used to build modern versions of cabinets and bookshelves.

If you remember furniture walls with numerous cabinets, drawers and cabinets, you can easily imagine how many panels of different sizes can be obtained in order to produce more compact, comfortable and modern pieces of furniture. How to make built-in furniture in a modern design, spending a minimum of money on it, and at the same time freeing rooms from bulky outdated structures will be discussed further.

Before proceeding to the following sections, it is advisable to understand what advantages built-in furniture made by yourself has.

If the furniture is made from the material that will be obtained as a result of dismantling old cabinets or other pieces of furniture, then you can get significant savings in the family budget.
Everyone knows that even in panel houses, the walls often do not differ in perfect evenness. Well, with the help of built-in furniture, you can perfectly mask this flaw, and, again, save on construction work to level surfaces.
The owners are given a great opportunity to show their creativity in the development of the project, and then reproduce their own design and engineering solution, making the most comfortable piece of furniture for use.
Serious savings in the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room are achieved. Almost every apartment has areas in which it is difficult to fit standard pieces of furniture, and for those items that will be made to order, you will have to pay double the price. When developing your own project, you can provide for all the nuances and dimensions of the area where the cabinet or shelf will be built in.
And, of course, hand-made furniture will give you a well-founded reason to be proud of your amateur talents.

Materials for the manufacture of built-in furniture

In addition to chipboard panels, inherited from dismantled cabinets, other materials can be used to make furniture.

Today, drywall is extremely popular, from which not only built-in wardrobes are built, but even entire walls with niches and cabinets for one or even two rooms. This material has gained such wide distribution due to the simplicity of its processing and the availability of installation, which can be carried out even by novice craftsmen who do not have experience. It is also attracted by its low price and environmental friendliness.

Try to innovate the interior of the room with drywall!

How to work with this material correctly, quickly and easily creating various designs, can be found in a special publication of our portal dedicated to self-construction.

Natural wood has traditionally been an excellent material for making furniture. The old masters managed to build cabinets without a single nail, and some of these pieces of furniture, made at the beginning of the last century, are still in use. Wood has many very important advantages over other materials - it is environmental friendliness, natural pattern and relief, ease of processing and aesthetic appearance.

Plywood is another material that can also be used to make built-in furniture. Often it is used in combination with wood, sheathing frames with plywood and making panels. The manufacturing process of plywood involves the use of glue, so it cannot be called a 100% environmentally friendly material, although there are varieties with a minimum, almost zero emission of phenol-containing substances.

Chipboard is a board made from sawdust and shavings, which are mixed with glue and then shaped by pressing. Then the plates are given an aesthetic appearance by lamination or veneering. Such boards can be harmless to health or dangerous, depending on the adhesive that was used in their manufacture. Soviet furniture most often consists of boards produced in accordance with GOST under strict control, so it can be called relatively safe compared to modern products of completely unknown origin. If furniture panels are purchased in a store, you should pay attention to the environmental safety group - for living rooms you need E0 or E1.

In addition to materials for the manufacture of furniture, it is necessary to choose modern fittings that are suitable for design - handles, locks, canopies, guides, rollers, hangers, etc. There will be no problems with these furniture accessories, since today they can be found in specialized hardware stores for every request and taste.

Where can you install built-in furniture?

Built-in furniture is a great way out in small or one-room apartments. It can be fixed, as mentioned above, near walls that have never been used to install cabinets along them. In addition, it will fit perfectly into a wall that has a small surface area and is too small to fit a standard cabinet. Such areas of the rooms mainly include external walls with window openings located in them, and internal ones with a door frame located in the center.

They usually try to close the wall around the window with curtains, without even thinking that it can be functional - this is what the vast majority of apartment owners do. However, if a complex of shelves is fixed on its surface, which has a shallow depth sufficient to accommodate books, then the design does not fit the same curtains and cornices. They may well be fixed not only on the ceiling, but also on the panels of the upper shelves. By installing such a design, you can immediately see what area of the room will be freed from cabinets, and plan it for other needs.

This wall of the room can only be used if it is absolutely dry, without the appearance of mold formations, otherwise the pathogenic microflora will quickly move to the books, and its spores will soar in the air of the rooms, which is quite dangerous for human health.

Paper is an excellent insulator, and books placed tightly together on shelves will create a kind of heat-insulating barrier, so the room will become warmer.

Another common option for installing built-in wardrobes is the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls around interior or entrance doors. By fixing the furniture in this way, two problems can be solved - saving space and additional soundproofing of the room.

Calculation of dimensions and drawing up a drawing

Once you've chosen a location for your cabinet or shelving, you can start planning your shelves and doors. The process of making a sketch and a drawing with exact dimensions can be done using special applications - they can be found on the Internet. In the event that this path seems difficult, then an ordinary sheet of paper, a pencil, a ruler will do.

The first calculation option will be more accurate, since the program will calculate not only all the parameters of the cabinet, but also the quantity, and even the approximate cost of parts and fittings.

Video: an example of designing a built-in wardrobe using a specialized application

The method of independent planning helps to understand all the nuances right on the spot, makes it possible to immediately make the necessary adjustments. But you will have to work very carefully on the drawing, since all the necessary details will be made according to it. Particular care in drawing up the diagram will be required if the parts are made according to it to order, in the workshop.

If a piece of built-in furniture will be constructed from chipboard, plywood or solid board, having approximately the same thickness, then the drawing for them is drawn up in the same way. In the case of using drywall for the manufacture of a cabinet or shelves, calculations are carried out taking into account the width of the metal profiles from which the frame will be mounted, since the narrowest of them is 50 mm wide and 27 mm deep.

Find out with illustrated instructions from a new article on our portal.

Built-in wardrobe with rear panel

Such a cabinet can be made of chipboard, plywood or solid board with a thickness of 16 mm. Built-in furniture is equipped with a back panel that covers the wall surface, or the interior wall itself serves as it.

This cabinet model has a height of 2600 mm, a width of 2400 mm and a depth of 650 mm. This design provides for a rear panel, but it is quite possible and easy to fix the cabinet to the wall.

Parts for cabinet assembly

For such a cabinet, you will need to make the following parts:

the name of detail	Part size, mm			Number of parts, pcs.
	Length	Width	Height
Side walls	2584	650		2
Internal vertical partitions	2568	550		2
Bottom panel of the cabinet	2068	650		1
Ceiling panel of cabinet with rounded corner	2584	650		1
Vertical panel extending outside the cabinet	2600	308		1
Horizontal side shelves with rounded corner	634	285		3
Drawers	2568	586	220	3
Bottom horizontal shelves	650	400		1
Bottom horizontal shelves	800	400		1
Top horizontal shelves	650	550		1
Top horizontal shelves	800	550		1
Horizontal shelves above drawers	550	586		5
Back panels made of plywood or fiberboard (5 mm thick)	2600	665		1
	2600	816		1
	2600	610		1
Compartment door panels	2600	694		1
Compartment door panels	2560	669		2
Roller set				2 sets
Guide rails for drawers	550			6 pairs
Shelf holders				44
Metal tubes with a diameter of 15 mm	816			1
Metal tubes with a diameter of 15 mm	665			1
Drawer details:
Front and back walls	586	220		6
Side walls	518	220		6
Bottom panel (plywood or fiberboard)	586	550		3
Compartment door guides with two lines of skids for movement	2068	50		Kit (upper and lower)

Parts manufacturing

The manufacture of parts for any furniture design is a rather complicated and time-consuming process that requires not only high accuracy, a certain skill and increased accuracy, but also the availability of special tools for working on blanks.

Illustration
	The first step is marking chipboard panels with transferring the dimensions from the drawing project to them and drawing cut lines. Next, all the details of the cabinet are cut out. It should be noted that if the cut is made with a hand saw, it will require a lot of time and effort. Therefore, the work will go faster and more accurately if it is carried out with the help of an electric circular saw or, in extreme cases, an electric jigsaw. In order for the edge to turn out to be even, without burrs, the cut must be made with a saw with fine teeth. In addition, it is recommended to stick masking tape along the edge of the saw line, which will protect the laminated edge from chipping. If the edges still turned out to be not quite even, they must be trimmed with a file, rasp or planer. If you want to get a perfectly even edge of the parts or the model has rounded corners and other curved configurations, then it is better to contact the workshop, where there is special equipment that produces accurate, up to a millimeter, cutting of any shape.
	If the furniture will be made from panels obtained as a result of dismantling the old wall, and the height of the panels will not be enough to build the intended project, then they will have to be increased.
	The connection of individual sheets can be done in different ways - this is a “groove-thorn”, using dowels, or using a special docking bar, in which two separate parts of the panel are glued on both sides. The last connection method is the easiest, and is available even for an inexperienced master.
	In this model of a case the regiments having the rounded-off corner are projected. To cut it beautifully, it is necessary to draw a curved cut line using a construction or impromptu compass. When sawing off rounded corners, use a jigsaw, showing special care.
	Sawn parts are numbered and signed. If there is an appropriate tool, all the edges of the parts are finished by milling. Then the finished parts are installed to the wall, following a certain sequence, in order to simplify the search for the desired structural element.
	The outer end sides of the panels are glued with PVC edges specially designed for this purpose. The edges are fixed on the end face using a layer of glue applied to them, which begins to show its adhesive qualities after heating. To do this, the edge is applied to the end of the panel and smoothed with a heated iron. After the panels are processed and ready for assembly, they mark the points of connection with other parts, as well as fix the fittings.

After the manufacture of all parts, their processing and marking, the cabinet is assembled in accordance with the drawing.

If the cabinet or rack will have a back panel, which will give the product additional rigidity, then after connecting all the structural elements to it from the back side, sheets of the back wall are fixed to the ends of the panels, which are most often made of fiberboard or plywood with a thickness of 3 ÷ 5 mm . If the back wall is not planned, then the cabinet frame will have to be fixed to the wall.

The presented cabinet can be assembled in different ways, and which one to choose is up to the master himself. Much in this case depends on the quality of the wall. To understand how the assembly is carried out, both installation options will be considered below.

Assembling a cabinet with a back panel

The assembly of the cabinet, fastened with the back panel, occurs in the following sequence:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	The first step at the place where the cabinet will be, its bottom part is set according to the level. Unfortunately, the floors are not always even, therefore, if necessary, small wooden linings are installed at one or two corners. In this case, it is advisable to immediately fix the exposed bottom of the cabinet to the floor surface.
	You can, of course, fix adjustable legs in the corners and in the middle part of the bottom panel, but this is done if the floor height differences are very significant. In addition, you need to take into account the height of the cabinet. If it is close to the height of the ceiling, then the legs for the structure will not work, and you will have to use wooden linings. The front end side of the floor panel must be glued with a PVC edge.
	Further, after marking, on the vertical panels of the cabinet, it is necessary to prepare holes for installing shelf holders, if they are removable, or for furniture corners, if the shelves are fixed permanently. The latter mounting method will make the structure more rigid.
	Another way to fix shelves on the vertical panels of the cabinet is to use eccentric screws. This fastener is more accurate and almost hidden from view, but it is more difficult to drill holes for it, as it requires perfect accuracy.
	In addition, skids for drawers are fixed along the drawn lines on the walls.
	If sockets or a switch are mounted on the wall near which the cabinet will be installed, and it will close them from the cabinet panels, then holes of the desired size and shape are marked and drilled in it with a drill or jigsaw.
	The next step is the installation along the vertical wall lines marked on the bottom panel. They will have to be temporarily supported on the sides, since they will not hold on only to the lower mounts. To keep them in the desired vertical position, several horizontal transverse shelves should be fixed without much delay. Since this design has side rounded shelves, in order to fix them, it is necessary to connect the extreme vertical panel and the board adjacent to the wall at a right angle. The board is fixed with the end side to the outer side wall using eccentric screws from the back side of the structure.
	Having fastened two vertical panels at right angles, you need to immediately install the side shelves. They are mounted on the side vertical wall of the cabinet with the help of dowels mounted on glue, and on the wall panel - with the help of confirmations (Euro screws), which are screwed in from the back of the panel.
	Then, the top panel-roof of the cabinet is installed and fixed - it is most often mounted using eccentrics. If the top panel is raised to the very ceiling, then through it you can fix the cabinet on the ceiling.
	Another way to fix the top panel, as well as horizontal shelves on vertical partitions, can be furniture corners. After installing the top panel, all other shelves and hanger rods are fixed.
	Further, according to the dimensions indicated in the table, three drawers are made. For a more accurate joining of the corners of the box elements, quarters can be selected along their edges. Drawers can have one front panel or two - internal and front. By installing a double front panel, the drawer handle will hold more firmly. In the lower part of the side, front and rear walls, slit-like grooves are cut into which the bottom of the box will slide.
	So the build goes like this: - first fasten the front and side panels of the box; - then the bottom part is pushed into their grooves; - and only after that the back panel is installed on the glue, which is additionally fixed with furniture screws. It should be noted here that you can use ready-made drawers of a disassembled furniture wall, replacing only the front panel with them. In this case, when drawing up a project, it is necessary to immediately take into account all their parameters.
	On the side walls of the boxes, you need to fix the second part of the roller guide system with self-tapping screws.
	Guides can be fixed at the bottom or middle of the sidebar. In order not to be mistaken in the correctness of their fastening, it is necessary to try on the boxes in the cabinet walls, based on the dimensions given in the drawing.
	Next, handles are selected for the boxes. For them, through holes are drilled in the centers of the facade panels, and then the handles are screwed from the inside of the box.
	The next step is the installation of guides for sliding doors. This model has three doors: - medium, installed on the first line of rails, and having the ability to move to any side of the cabinet; - two side doors, each of which, when opened, can reach the other along the second line of guides.
	According to the markings, the upper rail for the movement of the flaps is fixed on the ceiling panel of the cabinet, and then the lower rail, on the floor panel. Further, spring-loaded rollers are fixed on the doors, allowing you to easily install the wings in the fixed guide rails.

If desired or necessary, the structure can be fixed not only to the floor and ceiling, but also to the wall through the side panel of the cabinet adjacent to it from the inside of the structure.

About the installation of sliding doors was said in passing. But this is an extremely important point that requires comprehensive consideration. It is simply more expedient to refer the reader to detailed specialized instructions.

How to assemble and install wardrobe doors yourself?

For such furniture items, special components are sold in stores. A very detailed illustrated instruction for self-assembly and adjustment is in a special publication of our portal.

Built-in wardrobe fixed directly to the wall

This section of the article will look at ways to fix the same cabinet (or any other) to the wall, without using the back panel. As mentioned above, this option is perfect for hiding the uneven walls of the room.

Parts for cabinets are made and processed in the same way as in the previous version or when choosing a different model. Their list and dimensions also remain unchanged, with the exception of the rear panel.

You can replenish the list of materials with metal corners, with which the cabinet walls will be fixed to the wall, or with a beam that can replace the corners and act as a wall frame. It should be noted that if the cabinet shelves are open, then it is better to use metal corners or a profile for fastening - these elements look more aesthetically pleasing than timber.

To understand how such installation is carried out, you need to consider its options in more detail.

The first option is a prefabricated panel structure

This cabinet can be both open and closed with sliding doors. Installation of shelves in this case occurs with the help of metal corners. Work on its installation takes place in the following order:

The first step is to draw up a wardrobe project with the compartments that will be needed - these can be book shelves, a wardrobe compartment or drawers designed for other needs. In the project, real dimensions are taken on a smaller scale - this is necessary in order not to be mistaken in the width or height of the arrangement of certain parts. Moreover, it is better to make two copies of the project - on one of them, put down the dimensions of the location of the parts on the wall, and on the other - the parameters of the structural elements themselves.
Further, from a copy of the project, which shows how and where the vertical walls, as well as the top and bottom panels (if provided), will be fixed in the first place, the places of their fixation are transferred to the wall. They must be determined by drawing accurate vertical lines - along a plumb line.
The floor panel of the cabinet is fixed to the floor first, on which vertical partitions can be fixed.
Then, in the places of the drawn lines, the verticality of the wall plane is determined. To do this, you will need to prepare a perfectly even beam with a cross section of approximately 50 × 50 mm and a length almost equal to the height of the ceiling of the room, and a building level, or level, having a length of at least 2500 mm.

A level is attached to the wall, in the indicated place, and with the help of it the difference in surface drops is determined. If it is about 3 mm, then this will not greatly affect the installation of panels - even if a small gap forms, then with the built-in version of the cabinet it will be almost invisible.

In the event that the wall even visually looks uneven, there are two ways to hide this flaw - level the wall with plaster or drywall, or fit the furniture panels of the side walls to the wall. Fitting will have to be carried out gradually, cutting off from the panel that part that prevents it from completely pressing against the wall. Therefore, that side of it, which will adjoin the wall, will become uneven, but on the other hand, the front edge will ideally be leveled.
If the cabinet is mounted between two walls, then it is quite possible to completely abandon the extreme vertical panels, installing only internal partitions.
When the vertical panels are fitted to the wall, they should immediately be fixed in their places so that you can start marking the horizontal shelves, ceiling and floor front strips. To fix the vertical panels on them in three or four places, on both sides, metal corners are screwed. Then, the panel is leveled in relation to the walls, and through the holes in the corners, places are marked on them for drilling holes into which the dowel will be driven in and fasteners screwed in.
Further, if it is planned to install on a built-in wardrobe, then on the ceiling and floor or bottom panel, bars or strips are marked and fixed parallel to each other, which determine the width of the internal space and are designed to fix the guide skids for walking doors.

The next step, between the vertical internal partitions and walls, according to the drawing, is the marking of the location of the horizontal shelves. They, as in the previous version of the cabinet, are fixed to furniture corners to vertical panels and walls. Horizontal shelves will tie the whole structure, fix it to the walls and give it rigidity.

Next, the hanger rods are mounted, the skids for the boxes, if they are provided, the boxes themselves are made according to the size of the project and installed in place.
The final stage is the assembly and installation of compartment doors.

The second option - with a frame made of timber

This design is used for the construction of a built-in wardrobe most often, since it is the easiest to work with.

To build it, first a frame is mounted from a wooden beam according to the markings on the wall, which immediately determines the dimensions of the cabinet, that is, its height, width and depth. When these values are known, it is easier to carry out the further process of fixing the remaining elements of the cabinet and its sheathing with one of the selected materials.

A durable wooden frame can be sheathed not only with chipboard, but also with plywood, wooden or laminated fiberboard clapboard, as well as PVC panels - this criterion is chosen by the home master himself, taking into account financial capabilities, design ideas and the level of experience working with one or another material.

It is much easier to attach both corners and panels to a wooden beam, so work after the construction of the frame will go quickly enough. The marking of horizontal shelves occurs in the same way as in the previous versions, and vertical partitions usually always form a bar. Due to a more durable design, such cabinets can be equipped not only with compartment doors, but also with hinged ones - in some cases, the second option is preferable to the first.

The third option - with aluminum profiles

Installation of a built-in wardrobe using this technology can also be done independently if it is possible to manufacture all the necessary parts for the structure. An important condition when choosing the presented option for building a cabinet is that it can only be installed between two walls, that is, in a fairly narrow room, but for its entire width.

With this approach, for fastening the panels to the wall, an aluminum U-shaped profile is used, having a gap width between the shelves 1÷2 mm larger than the thickness of the chipboard panels from which all other elements of the cabinet are made. In the presented model, the profile width is 16 mm, with a panel thickness of 15 mm.

The panels fit neatly into the profile and often do not require additional fixing at all. In those places where the shelves will have a higher load, the bottom profile is additionally reinforced with a small chipboard panel.

The installation of the cabinet takes place in the same sequence as at the beginning of the assembly of any structure fixed to the wall:

Drawing up a project.
Production of cabinet parts.
Marking the wall surface with a plumb line, level, ruler and tape measure.
Fastening to the wall according to the marking of the metal profile.
Laying and fixing the floor panel and screwing profiles to it for the installation of vertical panels.
Installation of vertical partitions - they slide into the profile fixed on the wall and on the floor panel.
Next, the fitting of the upper horizontal panel is done, and the location of the vertical partitions is marked on it. Then, it is removed, and profiles are also screwed to it, which will hold the partitions in their upper part. After that, the top panel is finally installed.

Then, in the same way, all other horizontal shelves are mounted. They are installed in profiles that are fixed on the wall and to vertical panels. When the horizontal shelves are fixed, the structure will become more rigid and durable.
If the project includes the installation of drawers, then they must be installed between two chipboard panels, since without support on both sides they may not withstand the load. Therefore, this must be taken into account when designing.

In the example under consideration, the structures are planned, therefore, two-track guides are fixed for them on the ceiling and the bottom of the cabinet to move them, since both doors must move in one direction and the other.
The last step is to mount the movable door leaves and test them.

At the end of the publication - another clear example of a high-quality assembly of a built-in wardrobe:

Video: assembling a built-in wardrobe without a back wall

So, if you have the necessary tools, assembling built-in furniture with your own hands is a completely doable task. It is much more difficult to see the high-quality manufacture of all structural details. It is best to carry out this process with professional tools, which are not found in every home. Therefore, having completed and thoroughly checked the drawing, having all the necessary materials, it is better to order their cutting and processing in a carpentry workshop - it will be much faster and more accurate. And with high-quality, well-fitted parts, the installation process becomes a real pleasure.

In order to make a wardrobe with your own hands, you need to know some of the features and subtleties of its design. Even when this knowledge is there, it will be quite difficult to design such an element of furniture. So, how to make a closet yourself? Let's consider the whole process step by step.

First of all, you need to understand that a high-quality assembly closet will always have right angles, which cannot be said about the walls in the room. Builders often violate their correct geometry. Therefore, if this is not taken into account, then in the end the cabinet may not fit in its place.

Before making a built-in wardrobe, it is necessary to measure the room at several points. It is better to sketch on paper a sketch of the place where you plan to install the cabinet and mark the required dimensions on it. Based on these calculations, it will be necessary to determine the dimensions of the cabinet. In total, it will be necessary to make three series of measurements.

The first series consists of three measurements (taken at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the back wall):

The first is at a height of 80 centimeters from the floor.
The second - at a distance of 60 centimeters from the first.
The third is at a distance of 80 centimeters from the second.

The next series of measurements is performed at a distance of 30 centimeters from the first series.

Then you should measure the distance to sockets, ledges, doorways and switches. This is necessary in order to make sure that the cabinet will not interfere.

You also need to measure the distance from the floor to the ceiling. It is best to take measurements at several points. When the maximum information about the size of the room has been obtained, you can proceed to the next step.

Calculation of the overall dimensions of the wardrobe

Calculation procedure:

Of all the values that were obtained in the previous step, you should choose the smallest. It is on the basis of this number that the width of the future wardrobe will be considered.
In order to obtain the required value, it is enough to subtract 30 millimeters from each side from the total width, i.e. 60 millimeters.
The error will also be affected by factors such as the curvature of the walls, the design of the closet and the number of measurement points.

How does the length of the wardrobe affect its design:

The main material in the arrangement of the cabinet will be chipboard. Therefore, before making all parts from this material, you need to clearly know the dimensions of one plate. The most commonly used chipboard sheet, which has a length of 2750 millimeters, a width of 1830 millimeters and 16 millimeters in thickness.
It is good if you plan to make a cabinet with a width equal to or less than the dimensions of this plate. But if you need a longer construction, then a solid chipboard sheet is no longer suitable. You can try to ask to make a plate of the desired length. But in this case, they usually ask for such a chipboard sheet several times more expensive or they say that it is impossible to do this. In general, the main problem in manufacturing large-sized cabinets lies in two parts - this is the bottom and the top cover. Because they must have a length that exceeds the parameters of a standard chipboard sheet. There are several ways out of this situation:

for example, you can make two smaller cabinets and pull them together into one. Only in this case there will be an extra consumption of materials;
you can make a wardrobe with a combined bottom and top cover. In this case, the necessary piece is added to these structures. This will be required if, for example, you need to make a closet out of the pantry.

Calculation of the depth of the wardrobe

This question is very important if you are interested in how to make a corner wardrobe yourself. First of all, you need to know that there must be useful space inside the cabinet, i.e. part of the furniture involved in the storage of things.
In addition, a place for sliding systems should be provided - this is about 100 millimeters.
In order to successfully calculate the depth of a cabinet, it is necessary to make not only calculations of usable space, but also take into account the maximum allowable dimensions of this piece of furniture, taking into account the characteristics of the room. You need to know how deep the wardrobe can be placed in the desired room. Do not forget that with the size of the cabinet, its capacity also decreases. Moreover, always 100 millimeters will need to be “keep in reserve” for the sliding system when calculating.
In addition, you need to select the required functionality of the wardrobe, which will work as it should in a given useful depth of the product.

Calculation of the height of the wardrobe

If you decide how to make a radius wardrobe, calculate the correct height of the product. However, we must not forget that the structure will still have to be assembled and installed. Therefore, the dimensions of the cabinet should be calculated taking this into account.
So, the height of the structure should be 100 millimeters less than the distance from the floor to the ceiling (taking into account that this distance is not more than 2500 millimeters, and the depth of the cabinet is not more than 700 millimeters). Therefore, if from floor to ceiling in your room is 2500 millimeters, then the maximum cabinet height will be 2400 millimeters.
You also need to take into account that in the process of lifting the frame, the side wall of the cabinet must freely pass not only in height, but also diagonally. Therefore, to calculate the dimensions of the product, you need to know the size of the diagonal, which allows you to use the usual Pythagorean theorem to determine the height.

Base design

Consider two possible options for the basis for the wardrobe:

Low base.
On kitchen legs.

You just need to take into account right away that if the structure is placed on supports, then they should be installed closer to the side bulkhead of the closet. Most often they are placed at a distance of 30-40 millimeters.

The sliding wardrobe on a low base stands on stable adjustable supports, the height of which is 25 millimeters. The advantages of this option are:

It is convenient to adjust the height of the supports.
The low height ensures the durability of the structure.

There is a gap between the bottom and the floor.
Through holes are formed in the bottom.

If the supports are plastic kitchen legs, then their height is 100 millimeters. The advantage is that they close the gap between the bottom of the cabinet and the floor.

The disadvantages include that:

It is inconvenient to carry out the installation of supports. In order to adjust them, you have to lie down on the floor.
It turns out too much distance between the floor and the bottom of the cabinet.

Sliding wardrobe with rigid frame

In order for the wardrobe not to sway, it must be equipped with several stiffening elements.
Rocking occurs due to the lack of transverse stiffeners in the places of fixation of the rear wall of fiberboard. It is this support that provides almost all the rigidity, but fiberboard alone cannot make the structure stable. Therefore, stiffeners made of chipboard are needed. To do this, it is enough to fix the transverse supports with a height of 250 millimeters using confirmations.
To ensure rigidity of the cabinet along the entire height, such ribs should be installed in each section at different levels. In addition, one high rib is placed in the central compartment. Thanks to this, the cabinet will not sway, under any impact.

Shelf installation

Shelves are the main details that make up the design of any closet. There is nothing complicated in their installation. But if you need to install such strips on the same axis, then two options are possible:

Fixing with furniture corners.
Helicopter mount.

In the first case, corner ties are installed at the junction of two shelves on each side. In order to look symmetrical, such fasteners are added on opposite sides. In some places, they can keep on confirmations. Sometimes corner ties can also be used to fix these places, which will only strengthen the attachment points. The disadvantages include the fact that such fasteners are visible if you look into the closet.
As for the “helicopter” fixation, the principle of this method is based on the use of a confirmation, which is screwed in the center, for fastening one of the shelves. Then the sequence of actions should be as follows:

rotate the shelf around its longitudinal axis;
make room for attaching the opposite plank;
fix it on two confirmations;
return the bar to its original position;
fix both shelves on the opposite side with the help of confirmations.

Mounting the clothes rail

Most often, three types of clothes rails are used for the closet:

Standard.
Retractable.
Elevator pantograph.

There are longitudinal and transverse views of the installation of the rod.

For longitudinal mounting, a standard rod or pantograph lift is usually used.
For transverse installation, a standard or extension rod is used.

To select an installation option, consider the following three factors:

The width of the opening of the section where the bar will be installed.
Depth of the wardrobe.
In addition, it is important to understand that each type of bar is designed for a certain load.

Back wall installation

The back walls of fiberboard are usually fixed to the cabinets with self-tapping screws. Moreover, you need to know that they must be attached not only to the vertical bulkheads, the top cover and the bottom, but also to the shelves attached to the confirmations. This will make the cabinet structure even more rigid.
But there is one caveat when attaching the wall to the shelves - it will not work to screw in the screws by touch, because they are not visible. Therefore, for this purpose, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

take a marker and a ruler;
on the side bulkheads near the rear wall, the center of the shelf is marked;
a line is drawn along the back wall;
it is on it that you need to screw the screws.

Assembling the wardrobe

Assembly should begin with the installation of drawers. For each of them you need:

Collect the entire frame for confirmations.
Screw the bottom.
Fix the withdrawable parts of the telescopic rails.
Then you need to mark and drill holes in the ends of the removable shelves.

In order to speed up the process, you must:

Stack all the shelves.
Draw a vertical line along the ends with a square.
Using a core in the center of the ends, mark the locations of future holes.
Make holes using a confit drill.
Next, mark and drill holes in the bulkheads.
Marking is recommended to be done from the inside so that the shelves close the drawn lines during installation.
If you need holes for shelf supports, then they are made non-through.
Under confirmation, they are made, on the contrary, through.
Next, you need to perform a countersink from the outside.

When everything is drilled, you can assemble the frame. To do this, you need to do the following sequence of actions:

The upper ones are mainly designed to maintain the structure in an upright position.

Also included are top and bottom horizontal profiles. The first of them, in fact, is the upper horizontal frame of the door. The second allows you to mount the vertical base with self-tapping screws, and it also hides large rollers.

In addition, there is an H-profile, which is an important link between different door fillers.

Doors need a handle. Therefore, the design has a special open vertical handle profile.

The sequence of steps for assembling the doors is as follows:

Perform profile cutting.
Make small holes in the vertical handle profile.
Stick self-adhesive film on the back of glass or mirrors.
Install horizontal profiles.
Fix vertical profiles.
Install rollers.
Twist the structure with self-tapping screws.

Installation of guide rails

To install the top guide rail you need:

Align the guide flush with the side bulkheads.
Attach to the top lid of the closet.

To mount the bottom guide rail you need:

Place the bottom rail on the bottom of the structure.
Insert one sliding door into the system.
Using the level, move the bottom rail deep into the cabinet to the desired distance.
Achieve the most even vertical position of the door. This requires a building level.

Next, you need to install a stopper for the doors. It is necessary in order to fix the sliding door in the desired position on the rail. When mounting, it is enough to insert it into the track of the lower guide rail. Usually there is one stopper per door.

Video: how to make a closet

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Personal control of all important stages of production allows you to create furniture with unique characteristics at no extra cost. This article talks about how to make a wardrobe with your own hands. Drawings, detailed instructions, photos and videos will help you realize your own plans quickly and efficiently.

Even a complex project can be successfully implemented on its own after proper preparation.

Do-it-yourself wardrobe manufacturing steps

Measurements of the room and calculation of the dimensions of the closet

This tool will simultaneously allow you to refine the accuracy of horizontal and vertical elements of building structures. The easiest way to take measurements for cabinet furniture. In this case, it is enough to take the minimum dimensions and subtract a few centimeters to make a small margin.

It is much more difficult to accurately fit the built-in wardrobe. With your own hands, you must make at least three measurements for each meter of length (height). If excessive defects are found, the surfaces must first be leveled.

Important! In any case, the free opening of the nearest window (door) blocks is checked. If necessary, install sash limiters. You should make sure that the cabinet will not close the only light switch in the room, will not be too close to the ceiling or wall light.

Preparation of design documentation for the creation of a do-it-yourself cabinet or built-in wardrobe

These programs are available on the official websites of trade enterprises. They can be used completely free of charge. Anyone can insert their own measurements. Guides are selected automatically, designed for loads determined by the size of the canvas and the material.

With its help, you can make a quality project even without previous design experience. Even a beginner will quickly master this tool using the following simple algorithm:

Drawings of parts can be given to a specialized workshop, or used to make individual parts of the wardrobe with your own hands. The electronic project is convenient for inspection from different points. In it, you can quickly make various changes, taking into account additional requirements. The generated list is used to purchase the necessary components and parts.

Important! Quite large scraps from chipboard sheets and other materials remain in the workshop. It is better to take them with you to make it easier to correct errors during the installation process and perform repair operations in the future.

Choice for wardrobe rollers, materials, equipment and other components

The drawing shows the main components of a typical design:

The lower and upper guides for the wardrobe are attached to the floor and ceiling of the room (the bottom and the cover of the furniture, respectively).
In this example, the main load is on the lower rollers. But there are also models with a hanging canvas.
The side profile "C" additionally functions as a handle.
The sealing elements are made of silicone, which ensures a secure fixing of the glass.
The middle transverse elements strengthen the power frame, separate the individual elements of the canvas from different materials.

Do-it-yourself compartment door adjustment and other assembly features

Photo	Adjusting wardrobe doors: description of technological operations with comments
	During the first installation and during operation, the following typical problems arise: loose fitting of the valves, lack of fixation in the closed position.
	To prevent the canvas from moving back after hitting the side of the structure, a special locking element is installed inside the guide. It can be used to determine which door needs to be adjusted from a certain side.
	First, the shlegel (6÷8 cm) is separated to free access to the adjusting screw. The top hole is used during the assembly process for tightening fasteners.
	A hex wrench is used to adjust the position of the roller. In this example, the master uses #4.
	Clockwise rotation raises the door. In the opposite direction - lowers.
	These procedures are performed so that when closed, the canvas fits without gaps in the lower and upper parts. After obtaining the desired result, proceed to the next stage.
	The photo shows a locking element made of reliable sheet steel with an arrow. When the roller moves to the middle part, the spring rises up, preventing it from moving backward. If this part is shifted to the central axis of the wardrobe, a gap is formed.
	Moving an element is not easy. This is prevented by the ends of the springs, which rest against the bottom of the guide rails. They select a suitable piece of plastic, a board.
	With such a device, press the stopper. Then move the node in the desired direction.
	A torn off brush can be tucked into the bottom hole, or glue can be used for a hard mount.

Do-it-yourself direct installation of a direct or corner cabinet is no different from assembling standard furniture. In the same way, the bottom, walls, and lid are first installed. Then, internal and external shelves are attached to the power frame.

For your information! It is convenient to order a sliding system for a sliding wardrobe after the installation of the case. In this case, it will be possible to make an accurate measurement.

Appearance of a modern wardrobe, photo with good examples

The use of stained glass technology

sandblast drawings

Vinyl stickers

It should not be forgotten that they have limited strength. They can be damaged during the cleaning of contaminants using aggressive chemicals.

Article

There is not always enough money to buy a closet, which is necessary in every apartment. Another problem that people face is the lack of free space. You can solve problems by making a built-in wardrobe with your own hands. This option of space zoning is used in houses and apartments where there is free space along the wall, in a corner or a niche.

Built-in wardrobes have sliding doors, which significantly saves space in the apartment. In addition, such a piece of furniture fits perfectly into any interior, making the room more cozy and comfortable. Sliding wardrobes perfectly hide flaws, integrates with other shelves, lockers, hangers.

For the proper organization and layout of the built-in wardrobe, you need to understand the dimensions, configurations, fittings, drawings.

Built-in wardrobes are divided into several types:

They are made in the dead end of the corridor, hallway or any room of the apartment.
They are built into the corners, combining a wardrobe with a dressing room.
Created in a niche, one of the most popular options for built-in wardrobes.
They are arranged along the entire wall, the so-called straight option. Looks great in a narrow and wide passerby, corridor and room. The straight design should have sliding doors so as not to interfere with the movement of the occupants.
They are made in the form of a walkway between the bathrooms and bedrooms, two adjacent rooms. It looks good in apartments in which there is a small corridor in front of the room. Its functional purpose is minimal, so you can combine the closet with the bedroom, separating them with sliding doors. The bedroom will have its own dressing room, where you can move things, a table and put a large mirror there.

The basic forms for a built-in wardrobe in a wall or niche are the corner or straight version of this piece of furniture. When installing a wardrobe in a niche or wall, you need to take into account the important features of assembly and installation:

The distance between the side walls, which are needed for the installation of doors. In particular, the rear wall may have bumps, chamfered corners, create them, which will create problems with the installation of the roller system.
Ceiling height.
A cabinet in a niche may not have side walls, and a built-in cabinet along the wall excludes the presence of a rear wall and one of the side partitions. This is a great way to save material.

Size calculation

To properly install the cabinet along the wall or place it in a niche, you need to correctly measure all the necessary parameters - width, height, depth of the compartment, shelves, cabinets, drawers. First of all, installing a built-in wardrobe requires determining the correct height. Usually this type of furniture is installed directly under the ceiling. So you can avoid the occurrence of dust, cobwebs and dirt, which must be constantly fought. The height of the cabinet must be measured at several points, since the ceiling has a curvature with an error of a few millimeters.

A cabinet in the entire wall or in a niche can have different depths:

If there are only one shelves, you should not make a very deep compartment. The depth can be 30 centimeters, but no more.
If you plan to install hangers that will stand perpendicular to the doors, then this parameter should not exceed 60 centimeters.
In one case or another, it is necessary to add another 10 centimeters, allotted for the width of the doors.

The following factors influence the width calculation:

Edge thickness.
Installation of internal hinges.
Guide width.
Potholes, bumps and sockets in the wall.

Installation of a built-in wardrobe in a niche requires adding or subtracting 5 centimeters from the width, which will allow you to accurately insert the compartment into the recess in the wall.

Making a drawing

To make a built-in wardrobe, you need to draw up a diagram and drawing. First you need to plan the interior space - shelves, hangers, bedside tables. If the shelves are made of chipboard, then their thickness will not exceed 16 mm (standard chipboard thickness).

The interior space in the drawing must be divided into two parts. Shelves and drawers will be located in one compartment, and in the second you can put bedside tables and place a bar for hangers.

The drawing should also take into account how often certain things will be used. On the lower tiers, it is necessary to install shelves and drawers in which clothes, accessories, shoes will be located, which residents constantly take out of the closet.

Dimensional drawing example

The width of the area allotted for the bar and hangers should be 1 meter. The bar is mounted on top, and boxes are placed below, which should have a height of up to 50 centimeters. If shelves are made, then a distance of 30 cm must be made between them.

Schemes of a cabinet built into a niche or equipped along a wall should also take into account the sliding door system. The drawing must correctly reflect the proportions of the ratio of height and width. It is easy to calculate the required parameters. One part of the width corresponds to four parts of the width of one sliding door leaf.

The width and thickness of the doors must have enough space for the installation of rollers, which require no more than 10 cm of space for installation. Doors are made of chipboard, the thickness of one sheet should be 1.6 centimeters.

Thus, all measurements taken earlier must be applied to the drawing, which will allow you to correctly and without problems assemble the structure, put it in place. It is worth spending a little time on drawing up a drawing, so that later, according to the project, you can carry out a phased assembly of the product with your own hands at home.

Applicable materials

An important preparatory moment before assembling the cabinet is the choice of material from which the built-in wardrobe will consist. It is best to use natural wood, which is durable in operation. But the price of wooden boards is high, which makes it difficult for every person who wants to assemble a wardrobe on their own to use them. In addition, one must also take into account the fact that in niches and near the wall there is always the highest level of humidity, due to which the surface of the wood can swell and begin to rot.

The following types of materials are excellent substitutes for natural solid wood:

Plywood.

Plywood is made from veneer, sheets are then glued together under pressure. The number of layers in plywood can be different, but it must be a multiple. This material is quite durable, but also exposed to moisture. The cost of plywood is lower than that of wood, which is why it is used for the manufacture of cabinet furniture at home. Before assembling a wardrobe from plywood, the sheets must be treated with drying oil.

A full-wall sliding wardrobe can be made from chipboard panels, which are made from pressed wood shavings with impurities of various resins. They contain various chemical compounds, so chipboard sheets should only be purchased from certified stores. But it should be borne in mind that chipboard does not hold the shape of the structure and fasteners well.

For several years, chipboard has been competing with the finely dispersed fraction (MDF), which is durable and is created in accordance with modern requirements for the manufacture of MDF. Sheets are made from wood dust, squeezed under a very high temperature. As a result, the material releases lignin material, which binds wood particles together. MDF perfectly holds both fasteners and accessories.

Fittings and tools

It is impossible to assemble a wardrobe at home without the necessary tools and accessories. The following parts must be purchased from a specialist shop:

Two sets of monorail rails to be installed on top and bottom of the cabinet. Sliding doors will move along them.
A set of rollers capable of holding doors.
Stoppers.
Door hinges.
Pins for mounting.
Screws, including short ones, the length of which should not exceed 1.6 cm.
Terminals and adhesive tape (preferably double-sided).
Brackets and caps for screws that have a hexagonal female thread.
Brush seal, which is used as a dust protection.
Dowel.
Edges.

You will also need shelves, doors, drawers and cabinets, which can be plastic, furniture panels and baskets.

To make a cabinet, you will need an electric drill, which is needed in order to make holes in the wall and MDF chipboard sheets. It will need drills of various diameters and functional purposes, since you need to drill ends, shelves, doors. You also need a reverse screwdriver with different nozzles, a screwdriver, an awl, a tape measure, a square, a vacuum cleaner, a hammer, pliers, a stationery knife, adhesive tape, a special building hair dryer, a vacuum cleaner (to remove dust).

Cabinet installation at home

One person will not be able to assemble the closet himself and build it into a niche or place it along the wall. You will need the help of another person who will supply small parts, cut off adhesive tape, change tools.

A sliding wardrobe in the entire wall or in a niche should be mounted in stages:

First, assemble the main structure by drilling holes in the top panels, side and base. After that, the cabinet is assembled piece by piece.
Secondly, reinforce the side walls with metal or plastic furniture corners.
Thirdly, make recesses for the pins to be inserted and secured. Shelves are attached to the top.
Fourth, assemble the sliding system. First you need to fix the guide rails. After that, it is necessary to fix the rollers, which are inserted into the upper guide, and then onto the lower one, for which you need to raise the door. And only then are the far and near sashes hung in turn.
Fifth, check how the doors “walk”, which will allow you to install and adjust the stoppers.

When the whole structure is assembled, you can put things on shelves and boxes.

Thus, the built-in wardrobe is not a problem to assemble on your own. It is necessary to follow the instructions exactly, performing all the steps step by step.

The sliding wardrobe is one of the most demanded types of furniture today. Due to the unique design, such a cabinet will succinctly fit into the interiors of small Khrushchev houses or modern apartments. You can make a built-in wardrobe in the bedroom with your own hands, using chipboard and MDF for this. Sliding systems for storing clothes are easy to use and allow you to rationally use every square meter.

Instructions for creating a wardrobe

Filling the closet

Among all the advantages of this cabinet, there are several main ones:

- the presence of all kinds of shelves, niches;

- the possibility of making a cabinet according to an individual project;

- saving space due to sliding doors;

– combination of different materials and functions;

- no difficulty in creating, assembling a wardrobe.

All of these advantages lead to the fact that many people think about creating a wardrobe with their own hands. This article is aimed at helping those who nevertheless decided to make a wardrobe on their own.

Watch the video: How to make a built-in wardrobe. Cabinet assembly

The choice of wardrobe design

Filling cabinet wardrobe

A stand-alone cabinet is a separate independent structure, so there will be no difficulties with moving it. The main thing is that it fits the size of the new place. Unlike a built-in wardrobe, a free-standing one is made with all walls, side and rear.

Stages of designing a wardrobe

Stage I: Drawing

Sliding wardrobe project using the program

I would like to focus on such a parameter as the depth of the cabinet. It is not advisable to set a depth of less than 60 cm, otherwise, when storing clothes on hangers of a standard size, they simply will not fit (this is true for the variant of a compartment with a perpendicular arrangement of hangers to the length of the cabinet). In addition, any sliding mechanism will take about 10 cm from the length.

Stage II: Materials for the wardrobe

Assembling the wardrobe

Having chosen the base material, it is necessary to calculate all the elements of the frame, and then perform them. The next point will be the processing of the ends, since when cutting the plates they remain unprocessed. To do this, you can use a special profile that fits on the end. Another way is to stick PVC tape on the end (in this case, you will need special equipment).

Fixing wardrobe doors

Sliding doors, the facade of the wardrobe, it is also preferable to order in the workshop, since the purchase of all components and materials is much more expensive, besides, embedding the facade in the door requires some skill and special tools.

Stage III: Sliding wardrobe fittings

In addition to the basic materials, you will need numerous accessories. You can not do without the purchase of fasteners: dowels, screws, furniture corners, and other special elements. To understand all this, you can examine the installed wardrobe of your friends or take a closer look at the exhibition furniture samples in the salon.

IV stage: installation of the cabinet

- screwdriver or screwdriver;

- drilling tool - puncher;

- jigsaw or cut-off saw;

- set of drills;

- hardware.

wardrobe dimensions

Drills and hardware will be needed when making holes for the mounting components of the structure. We begin the assembly with the construction of the main vertically standing rack parts, then moving on to the rest of the cabinet. After that, elements of retractable structures are installed, and the assembly stage is completed by the installation of facade doors. And lastly, upon completion of all work, all retractable elements are adjusted.

Thanks to photos, diagrams and drawings, you can. Do not think that you do not have enough skills, because today you can find a lot of training videos with which even novice builders can make repairs in an apartment.