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Proper care of garden roses at different times of the year. Roses in the garden: rules for planting, pruning and growing a flower Caring for roses in the garden

Proper care of garden roses at different times of the year. Roses in the garden: rules for planting, pruning and growing a flower Caring for roses in the garden

There is so much to do in the gardener's calendar in the spring! Some of the works are related to the vegetable garden and orchard, others are related to ornamental plants. Already from early spring, garden princesses - roses - remind of themselves. Indeed, in order for these beauties to please with lush flowering and healthy foliage, it is necessary not only to remove the shelter from them in a timely manner. Roses in the spring will need proper pruning, mandatory feeding, and protection from diseases and pests. But for careful care at the very beginning of the garden season, these beauties will doubly thank you with the advent of summer. How to care for roses in spring, we will tell in the article.

All frostbitten, dry, damaged, diseased rose shoots should be cut to healthy tissue, just below the frostbite or lesion. © plant info

Removing cover from roses

Complex or simple shelters from roses must be removed gradually, step by step, just as they were created. As soon as the sun warms up, the snow melts, not earlier than in the first decade of April, start airing the bushes, opening up shelters on the north side for the day. Keep an eye on the weather, rose buds, look under shelters: in many ways, the weather and temperature in each individual year determine the specific dates. Carefully protect roses from aging, overheating under the increasingly active spring sun.

A few days later, after the temperature rises above -5°C, remove the first "layer" of the shelter - non-woven material. After another 2-3 days, when the temperature rises to 0 ° C, remove the spruce branches or the rest of the covering material, and after a few days - dry foliage. Let the bushes adjust and only then remove the hillock.

From the root neck, the place of vaccination, protection is removed last. Also, do not rush to start spring cleaning of roses and other procedures: start pruning and top dressing only 3-7 days after the final removal of shelters, but watch the buds: if they are swollen, it is better to speed up the process. The more “stages” you manage to break down the process of unwrapping roses, the more careful the adaptation, the better.

Pruning roses in spring

The spring direct grooming program for horticultural queens kicks off with sanitary clipping and thinning pruning. For these luxurious shrubs, it is imperative to strictly observe the deadlines: pruning is possible only until the moment when the buds begin to bloom on the roses. In order not to be late, it is better to schedule pruning immediately after the winter shelter is removed and carry it out within a week.

Roses that have successfully overwintered should be carefully examined, paying special attention to bushes planted only last fall. All frostbitten, dry, damaged, diseased shoots should be cut to healthy tissue, just below the frostbite or lesion.

Completely remove the wild shoots that appear below the place of budding (vaccination) in order to prevent the wilding of the rose in time. It is better to immediately carry out the removal of the oldest branches, from 4-5 years old, as well as thin shoots growing inside the bush. Treat wounds, large sections immediately with garden pitch or a special agent.

If the roses are frozen and seem to be dead, do not rush to dig up and throw away the bushes. Perhaps a few buds survived on the rose, and with the advent of spring, the shrub will still come to life, will release new shoots. © Jay W. Pscheidt

If sanitary cleaning is required for any roses, then pruning and shaping directly depend on the species, the group to which a particular bush belongs. Floribundas and hybrid tea roses are pruned in the spring, shortening all shoots by a third.

Shrub and flower bed roses of single flowering do not form in spring, and for multi-flowering roses, shoots are shortened by a third of their length. Ground cover roses are rarely pruned, every 4-5 years rejuvenating the bushes with a cut to 20-30 cm stumps. Remontant roses need only thinning, their skeletal shoots are cut 1 time in 3-4 years.

Climbing roses are pruned annually, leaving 3-5 buds on the side branches and be sure to remove shoots older than 5 years, thus constantly rejuvenating the rose. Standard roses are formed according to certain contours.

When carrying out spring pruning, one should strictly monitor the cleanliness and sharpness of the tools, treat them with disinfectants for each bush. Make cuts only above a well-developed kidney (by 0.5 cm) and only at an angle, obliquely.

Spring top dressing

The first dressing for roses of the year is best done immediately after sanitary pruning. For early spring fertilizer, timing is also important, or rather the stage of shrub development: the mixtures are applied after they swell, but even before the buds open.

Roses respond well to complex fertilizers, and to special mixtures for roses, and to nitrogen fertilizing (for example, ammonium nitrate). Use the standard full dose of fertilizer recommended by the manufacturer. Every 2-3 years, it is desirable to add organic matter to mineral dressing - manure or compost, embedding it in the soil or using it as mulch.

Roses respond well to both complex fertilizers and special mixtures for roses. © Dorling Kindersley

According to the classical agricultural technique for this shrub, fertilizers are applied to the soil around the new growth, mixing them into the soil. But today, two application strategies are used: dissolving in water for irrigation (application in liquid form) or incorporating into the soil.

The latter method is less effective, except during rainy and warm seasons. Yes, and more labor intensive. In order for top dressing introduced into the soil not to cause burns, it is necessary to water the soil abundantly for several hours before the procedure. Immediately after top dressing, the soil is shed again, conducting deep, high-quality watering.

Mulching under bushes in spring

Mulching is the only way to simplify rose care and save yourself a lot of trouble. They complete the procedure for the first application of fertilizers. It is necessary for more effective conservation of moisture in the soil, prevention of its compaction, violation of water and air permeability, and weed control. Thanks to mulching, you can forget about weeding and loosening, and distribute your time more efficiently.

For roses, a mulch made from shredded bark or mature compost is perfect. After watering, the soil is loosened, fluffed up, and then covered with an average layer of mulch (5-7 cm) from above.

Repair and installation of supports

After the roses are cut, the basic procedures are completed, it is worth taking care of installing new supports and inspecting the old bases for climbing roses. Pay attention to wooden structures that are best treated with protective compounds. As the shrubs grow and develop, they need to be tied up, raising the shoots above the ground.

Standard roses, after they are re-installed vertically, must also be immediately tied to the stakes.

Caring for old, feral and grafted roses

All roses that were budded last summer should be cut off the rootstocks (if signs of releasing new shoots are visible). It is worth paying attention to wild roses as early as possible: renewing, cardinal pruning will help save the bushes. All branches are cut to a height of 35-40 cm. And on old roses that do not grow well, it is better to stretch the pruning process for several years, affecting only a part of the old shoots.

Mulching is the only way to simplify rose care and save yourself a lot of trouble. © Antonio

Monitoring to prevent problems

From the middle of spring, and especially in May, it is worth doing inspections of rose bushes on the site as often as you can. At this time, aphids are especially active. But also for prevention, the timely start of the fight against fungal diseases, examinations of young foliage are of critical importance.

To prevent many problems, it is better to resort to the preventive spraying method, especially for varieties that are not particularly resistant to powdery mildew.

Mandatory preventive spring spraying is also considered for roses that have been sick in past years. Spray young foliage on roses with an insecticide or fungicide (special preparations for protecting roses or simple Bordeaux mixture, iron sulfate are fine), protecting the plants from possible infection. You can use biological products - infusions of tansy, nettle, etc.

Some gardeners prefer to treat pests and diseases as early as possible, immediately after the shelter is removed and before the buds open. But spraying can be carried out at a later date.

Preparing to plant new roses

If you plan to plant new roses in the spring, do not delay preparing the soil for planting: the sooner you dig up the soil and fertilize it, the better. Planting time will come only in the middle and end of spring, but the work done on time will allow you to simplify the busiest months of the year.

For roses, a standard technique is used: the soil is dug deep twice, scattering organic and mineral fertilizers over the ridge between procedures. Both manure and compost are perfect for this shrub, and either a self-prepared mixture, or nitrophoska, or special fertilizers for roses are used as a complete mineral fertilizer.

If you are planning to plant new roses in the spring, do not put off preparing the soil for planting. © David Austin

Spring planting of roses

For regions with severe winters, it is spring that is considered the optimal time for planting garden princesses, which makes it possible to achieve good rooting and ripening before the onset of cold weather. Spring planting of roses is carried out for seedlings with an open root system as early as possible, as soon as the soil warms up (up to + 10 ° C), and in containers - at almost any time.

Seedlings must be prepared before planting. Roses in containers are plentifully watered, with an open rhizome - soaked in water to saturate tissues with water. After soaking, the roots are cut, removing a third of the length (for damaged roots, pruning is carried out to healthy tissues). Shoots also need to be shortened: on average, 5-6 buds are left on strong shoots, 2-3 on medium ones, damaged or dry branches are completely removed. But it is better to take into account the type, the class of the rose.

Polyanthus and hybrid tea roses are pruned so that 2-3 buds remain on the shoots. 3-4 buds are left in floribunda, flowerbeds are shortened by a third, and ground cover roses are not cut at all.

Roses are planted in spacious, deep planting pits, carefully straightening the rhizome or carefully keeping the earthen ball of container roses. When planting, the grafting site of the bush is buried 5-7 cm below the soil line. They cover the rose with earth, gently tamping the soil, trying to avoid voids and taking into account shrinkage. Immediately after the procedure, the roses are watered abundantly, and the soil is mulched. If the landing is carried out early, to protect against night frosts, the bushes are spudded, removing the shelter only after the shoots start to grow.

Do you have many roses in your garden? How do you take care of them? Share your secrets in the comments to the article or on our Forum.

Winter is over and warm days are here. It's time to "wake up" the queen of the garden - the rose. Spring care for roses is a troublesome process, but by doing everything right and in a timely manner, you will lay the foundation for their successful development for the whole season.

Spring work in the garden begins with the removal of protective cover at the end of winter. It's important to get the timing right. It is necessary not to freeze the shoots, but also to prevent the rose bush from getting warm.

We start with ventilation: for a couple of hours during the day we raise the shelter for air circulation. Further, when the earth thaws slightly, the bush is opened on one side (preferably from the north or east), and after another two or three days, the shelter is completely removed.

The overwintered bush should adapt to the spring sun and not get burned. The first days it should be shaded with thin material or spruce branches.

When the earth has dried up, they begin to unravel the roses. Do this carefully so as not to break the young sprouts. In grafted standard bushes, it is important to carefully lubricate the grafting site with a 1% solution with a brush or a small cloth.

Spring problems of roses and their solution

Having opened the bushes, you should carefully examine them. They can be frozen, weathered or with infectious diseases.

If the branches are dark brown and dry, then they are frozen and must be removed. If all the shoots are frozen, do not rush to throw out the bush. The root may turn out to be alive, sprouts from renewal buds may go.

Warm days in late autumn provoke sap flow, and during frosts, the juice freezes and causes cracks - from inconspicuous to large (about 15 cm). In the spring, sap flow exacerbates the problem, pathogenic bacteria develop in the cracks. It is better to remove large frost holes, and treat minor ones with copper sulphate or a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate. Then close the wound with garden pitch.

When opening rose bushes, you can find mold. This happens in the absence of autumn processing. Erase the fungus, and then wash the infection sites with iron sulphate or a copper-soap preparation.

If the shelter was removed late, there is a risk of damping off or infectious burn (stem cancer). Red-brown spots appear, which darken in the center. Such branches are cut to healthy tissue. The plant is treated, for example, with copper chloride. When one or two branches are affected by an infectious burn, and the spots are small, not girdle, such shoots can be left and let the bush bloom until summer pruning.

First spring pruning and processing

Continuing the spring care activities, we proceed to the sanitary pruning of the bushes. General rules:

It is necessary to carry out every spring before the start of bud break.
Be sure to use a sharp pruner.
Cutting off the branches completely, you can not leave stumps, they are removed to the very base - on the "ring".
The branches are cut at an angle of 45 degrees, stepping back from a healthy outer kidney about 5 mm. It is necessary to choose the one that grows outward so that there is no thickening.
Forming a bush, about 5 healthy, old branches are left, the rest are removed to the "ring".

Sanitary pruning of roses in the future is the same as for other shrubs:

All dry and damaged branches are cut out to healthy wood, as well as those growing inside the bush.
Old branches (more than 4 years old) are removed.
We must cover the places where large branches are cut with garden pitch or brilliant green to avoid infection.
The secateurs must be disinfected after each bush.
Wild shoots that appear below the grafting site are removed.
Hilling bushes.

Successful planting of roses in the spring and care measures are the key to the future healthy beauty of your rose garden. And when queen roses bloom in all their splendor, no one remains indifferent. All the difficulties and worries about them suddenly seem so insignificant. And everything about caring for roses in the autumn is written.

Kind: rosaceous
Flowering period: June July August September
Height: 30-300cm
Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, wine red
perennial
hibernates
sun-loving
moisture-loving

If the lion is the king of animals, then the rose is the absolute queen of the garden. This plant has long been considered an object of admiration and worship. No wonder it was chosen as a symbol of love. The first mention of the rose can be found in the legends of the ancient Hindus. Legends about a beautiful flower are also found in the annals of Ancient Iran. According to legend, a charming white Rose with very sharp thorns was created by Allah himself. She was supposed to become the mistress of flowers instead of the magnificent, but very lazy Lotus. Today, this plant can become a real decoration for your gardens, but for this you need to learn how to choose and plant a seedling, what is the correct care for roses.

Planting and caring for roses is not as difficult as it seems. It is important to follow simple rules, and your garden will be filled with magnificent fragrant bushes.

Selecting and maintaining seedlings

In order to initially ensure success in growing roses, it is necessary to purchase high-quality planting material. It is better to choose plants whose root system will be closed. When planting such a seedling, the ground around the root must be preserved.

Rose seedlings are best chosen with a closed root system: they take root more easily at the planting site and get sick less.

Often in modern supermarkets you can see imported roses with a closed root system, which are sold in advance. Several seedlings can be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf at a temperature of 0 to +5°C. During storage, you will have to regularly monitor the condition of the substrate around the rhizome. It should not dry out completely, but too much moisture is also harmful for it.

Advice! A solution of root or heteroauxin promotes root growth, so you can water seedlings with it several times.

When should roses be planted?

Most roses are recommended for autumn planting. The preferred work period starts in mid-September and ends in mid-October. An earlier planting time is undesirable due to the fact that the rose can give fresh shoots in the warmth, which will not have time to get stronger and freeze in winter. Late planting is also dangerous, because the plant must take root before frost.

Most roses are planted in autumn. This is also convenient because when buying planting material on the market, you can see the flower itself

Planting flowers in May. Useful tips for gardeners and a calendar of May plantings:

Decide on a place to land

The place for planting roses should be sunny. In the shade, roses can get bored, they stop flowering, dark spots appear on the leaves of plants, and blind shoots form. The plant can be affected by powdery mildew. Choose an area that is ventilated, but has protection from strong northerly winds.

Roses decorate the garden, regardless of their location, but the plants themselves need conditions for successful growth and flowering.

Roses have no special preferences in terms of soil. They are not as capricious as it may seem. Any soil is suitable for them, except for heavy clay and light sandy loam. The landing site should not be located where groundwater comes close to the surface of the earth.

The process of planting roses

Planting pits need to be dug deep and wide enough for the roots of the plant to be spacious. If the soil is fertile, then half a meter of depth and the same width will be sufficient. For clay soil with the same width of the pit, 60-70 cm should be dug in depth.

It is necessary to prepare a nutrient mixture for backfilling in a pit. It contains humus or compost, rotted manure and soil. Fertilizers should not come into contact with the roots of the plant, so we sprinkle them with a layer of soil.

The soil or substrate that covers the roots of the plant must be preserved: the rose quickly adapts to new living conditions

Pour water into the hole before planting the seedling so that it is absorbed. If the root system of the rose is closed, it is not necessary to free the root from the ground. If the root is free, it must be cut to a third of the length and soaked in plain water or a root growth stimulator for two hours.

Shoots should also be cut:

in polyanthus and hybrid tea roses so that 2-3 buds remain on each of the shoots;
leave 3-4 buds for floribunda roses;
in park roses, the shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm;
only cuts of the roots are cut off (updated, not shortened).

The seedling should be sprinkled with earth so that the grafting site is about 5 cm below the ground. Wax should be removed from the place of deepening, if any. The earth should be compacted and watered again. In this way, air that could remain around the roots is removed, and the closest contact between the plant and the soil is achieved. You can spud a seedling by about 10-15 cm. The resulting hill should be removed in two weeks - the time during which the seedling should take root.

Reproduction of the queen of the garden

There are not so many ways to propagate roses. But the desire to have as many of these undeniably beautiful and diverse plants as possible on the site is so great that gardeners strive to master them all and to the maximum extent. Here is a list of ways to propagate a rose:

Budding. On the bark of the plant stem, close to the ground level, a T-shaped incision is made, into which the bud of the cultivated variety is inserted, after which it is fixed with a film. The scion can use the developed root system of the stock. Such an operation is not difficult, but requires some experience.
Seeds. This method is used extremely rarely due to the fact that the result has to wait a long time, and there is no certainty that it will be positive. And the germination of rose seeds leaves much to be desired.
Layering. Shrub and climbing roses are propagated this way because they have long and strong stems. The shoot of the plant in the lower part is cut for 8 cm, a sliver or match is inserted into the cut. The cut part of the shoot is placed in the ground and fixed, and its free tip is tied to a peg. The rooted shoot is cut off from the parent bush.
Cuttings. The method is good because roses rooted in this way will not give wild shoots. The cutting is part of a strong shoot. It is cut next to the leaf bud, and germinated using root stimulants. After the appearance of the root, the rose can be planted in the ground.

The layering method is good only for propagating plants with long stems, which are used to create a new rose bush

Rules for caring for a garden rose

In order for the rose to bloom and delight its owners for many years, you should pay attention to it, do not forget to feed it and protect it from viral diseases. Do not be afraid of difficulties: growing in the garden is not as difficult as it seems.

Plant nutrition

Manure is a natural fertilizer and preference should, of course, be given to it. The best horse manure is considered to be at least six months old. Chicken and pork manure, especially fresh, can seriously harm the plant: it is acidic and can simply burn young shoots. Fresh manure also has a bad effect on the soil, because it blocks nitrogen.

Manure is a natural fertilizer, therefore the most acceptable. When choosing top dressing, preference should be given to rotted horse manure or mullein.

During the formation of buds, you need to feed the plant with a solution of calcium nitrate at the rate of 1 tbsp. for 10 liters of water. At the time of active growth and development of the plant, it should be watered every 10-15 days with herbal infusion, a solution of mineral fertilizers, chicken manure or infused mullein. In order for the top dressing to be better perceived by the plant, it is better to apply the same mineral fertilizers in dissolved form and after the next watering. When the first half of summer is already behind, that is, in the second part of July, rose feeding stops. The plant is getting ready for winter.

Plants can also survive stress. It is in this state that they are in a period of extreme heat, cold or prolonged rains. To make it easier for roses to overcome difficult times in their lives, you need to spray them with zircon, epin, ecosil or sodium humate. Overfed roses produce abundant greenery, but bloom very sparingly.

The order of watering the plant

Roses should be watered no more than once a week. If the summer is hot, then the frequency of watering can be doubled. Irrigation rate - a bucket of warm water for each bush. It is necessary to pour water under the root, trying not to get on the foliage. Water should penetrate the soil to a depth of at least 20-30cm. If watering roses is shallow, superficial roots can form, which are easily damaged.

A rose in the dew is a magnificent sight, but nature decreed that the dew disappears with the first rays of the sun, otherwise its drops, like magnifying glasses, would amplify the energy of the sun and burn the petals: you need to water the roses at the root

If there is no one to water the roses for a long time (more than a week), the soil at the base of the plant should be covered with humus, mowed grass or tree bark. Such a measure will not only retain moisture at the roots, but also prevent the growth of weeds.

With a lack of moisture, the flowers of the plant may become small, but roses should not be poured either: this can lead to a reduction in oxygen supply to the roots. As a result, the leaves of the plant will turn yellow. To prevent this from happening, do not forget to loosen the soil after watering.

Of course, proper feeding and watering is important, but the process of caring for a garden rose is not limited to this. One of the most unpleasant diseases for garden roses is powdery mildew. Preventive measures will help take care of the health of the plant in advance. The rose must be sprayed directly on the leaves with a solution of ordinary baking soda at the rate of 40g of soda per liter of water. This must be done from spring 2-3 times a week, as well as at the beginning of summer.

Plants, like all living things on earth, can get sick. These are not random spots or traces of fertilizers. This is powdery mildew, which is easier to prevent than to treat.

Aphids are a big nuisance for roses. But you can overcome it. To do this, boil a bucket of water, put a piece of grated laundry soap and a couple of branches of wormwood into it, and then boil for 10-15 minutes. A cooled and filtered solution of roses is sprayed. A week later, the procedure should be repeated. If the aphid stubbornly does not want to leave the plant, you will have to use a systemic poison, for example, Aktara.

Aphids will not appear on roses at all if you plant lavender or nasturtium under them. And calendula and marigolds will help get rid of beetles. By the way, onion and garlic will add health to roses, like people. In their environment, plants become more fragrant and get sick less.

Spots on the leaves, cracks in the stems and the cessation of bud development indicate the disease. Affected branches should be removed. Prepare an infusion of horsetail, wormwood and nettle, which is sprayed on the rose.

A few words about rose pruning

Plant shoots growing inward should be cut off. This stimulates the emergence of young shoots and active flowering. Withering flowers need to be removed, then the saved forces of the plant will be directed to a new wave of flowering, which will be more abundant.

Just look how beautiful! But all this splendor can be grown with your own hands. If someone has succeeded, you will definitely succeed too.

There are many pruning rules and this topic is undoubtedly worth it to be devoted to.

The rose is a versatile flower that is not only suitable for decorating any event, but also pleases us with its color on weekdays. In the latter case, we mean home (garden) roses, which often decorate the territory of private estates. However, the question "How to plant a rose?" continues to excite many gardeners. Is growing roses really such a difficult job? Let's figure it out.

Rules for planting the "Queen of the Garden"

"Queen of the Garden" namely, this is how they called the rose - it is a rather unpretentious plant, which in terms of care is not much different from other flowers. Although it still has its own characteristics in growing.

How to choose seedlings for planting

When choosing seedlings for the future decoration of your garden, it is better to pay attention to grafted specimens. They are characterized by a more powerful and developed root system, excellent frost resistance, good survival rate and a large number of flowers on the bushes. Grafted seedlings are less susceptible to disease.

In caring for such a plant, you will have to spend more time, since grafted roses require the mandatory removal of wild shoots (over time, it can turn a beautiful flower into an ordinary wild rose, since in most cases all cultivars are grafted from it). Own-rooted plants do not need such actions.

Did you know? In England, Iran and the United States, the rose is considered the national flower.

Based on the appearance of seedlings, then on sale you can find samples with both open and closed root systems (placed in containers or with a peat clod on the roots). It is best to give preference to a closed root system: when planting a plant, the roots will be less damaged and grow faster.

When choosing rose seedlings, do not forget to pay attention to their foliage. It should not be sluggish or dry. The shoots of the plant should also be strong and not have cracks or spots. The number of shoots on a good seedling cannot be less than 3.

When buying a plant with an open root system, you will have a chance inspect the roots and determine their condition. And in this case, there should be no damage.

If the selected seedling does not meet the specified requirements, then roses with such features will not be able to become a worthy decoration of your yard.

Choosing a landing site, what should be the lighting and temperature

Roses love the sun, so when choosing a suitable place for growing in the garden, it is recommended to pay attention to sunny areas. Being in the shade, roses stop blooming, dark spots appear on their leaves and blind shoots form. Often the plant is affected by powdery mildew. To avoid this, you need to choose a bright, well-ventilated area that will be protected from a strong north wind.

As for the characteristics of the soil, it should not be clay or sandy loam, and all other options are quite acceptable. It is also worth paying attention to the fact that the chosen landing site is away from groundwater, which comes close to the surface.

Before answering the question "How to plant roses?" you need to find out exactly when you can land. Shrubs are planted 2 times a year: in spring and autumn (before frost). Autumn planting is preferred, since until spring all plants have time to take root well and bloom earlier than roses that were planted in spring.

In the middle latitude, autumn planting is carried out mid-September to mid-October and if you plant seedlings earlier, then there is a high probability of awakening dormant buds, which will immediately die with the onset of cold weather.

Too late planting is also considered unfavorable, since the seedlings may not have time to take root and will also suffer from frost. If you “guessed” the planting dates, after 10-12 days new young roots will begin to appear at the seedling, which will have time to adapt before the onset of frost and calmly survive the cold winter.

In the spring (if the planting of roses was carried out in the fall), such plants begin the rapid formation of the root and aerial parts, and flowering occurs along with old, perennial bushes. At the same time, the flowers that were planted in the spring, on average bloom 2 weeks later and require more attention.

Before planting a plant, the soil must be properly prepared by feeding it with mineral and organic fertilizers. Of the organic options, manure is the best solution, and the first top dressing with complex mineral fertilizer should be thorough, but not more than 15-20 g per bush (a large dose will adversely affect the flowers).

If spring planting is provided, then in the fall it will be necessary to dig a spacious hole up to 1.2 m deep and half a meter in diameter. It is filled with drainage (branches, large gravel, expanded clay are suitable), and a mixture of garden soil and humus is laid on top, adding mineral fertilizers along the way. When planting roses in autumn, pits for bushes are prepared in 1-1.5 months.

How to plant a rose

Planting roses begins with choosing seedlings and digging a hole in a suitable location. We have already dealt with the first point, and as for the second, then the hole in the ground should be of such size that the roots of the rose feel free. If we are talking about fertile soils, then half a meter of depth and the same width will be quite enough. For clay soil, which must be pre-fertilized (humus or compost is mixed with rotted manure and soil), with the same width of the pit, it is necessary to dig to a depth of 60-70 cm.

Important! Fertilizers should not come into contact with the roots of seedlings, so they are sprinkled with a layer of soil.

Before placing the seedling in the hole, you need to pour water into it and wait until it is absorbed. Then a rose with a closed root system is immediately placed in the soil, and if the roots are open, then they will have to be cut to a third of the length and soaked in water (or a root growth stimulator) for several hours.

Given the size of the bush of a particular species and the rate of its growth, when planting plants, it is recommended to observe a certain interval (from 0.5 m to 1 m). However, the distance between the bushes can be determined independently, based on specific goals. For example, spray roses will look great not only in general, but also in single plantings. In the rose garden, it is necessary to observe a distance from a meter to one and a half (or 1.2 m) from a neighboring plant.

How to care for a rose in the garden

Usually roses do not require special attention, but this does not mean that proper planting and care are not important for these flowers.

How to water a rose

Caring for roses in the garden involves abundant, but infrequent watering. The ground under the bushes should not dry out, and the first sign that your rose needs water is withered flowers and leaves of the plant. Usually, an average rose bush needs about 5 liters of liquid, and a climbing plant needs 15 liters.

The water used for irrigation should not contain chlorine or be too cold, because for the normal life support of the bush, it must be watered with water slightly heated in the sun. The larger the bush becomes (roses are constantly growing and forming), the more water will go to watering.

Flower feeding rules

If you grow roses, then you probably know that caring for them and growing them in the garden require periodic fertilization of the soil. In this plan it is better to give preference to natural top dressing - manure. The ideal option is horse manure, which has at least six months of aging. The waste products of chickens or pigs (especially when fresh) can only harm plants: because of the acid contained in them, young shoots will simply burn out. Fresh manure is also bad for the soil, blocking nitrogen.

In the process of the appearance of buds, it is necessary to feed the plant with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), and during the period of active growth and development of the rose, it must be watered every 10-15 days with an infusion of herbs, a solution of mineral fertilizers, infused mullein or chicken droppings . In order for the plant to better perceive the applied top dressing (for example, mineral fertilizers), it must be applied in dissolved form, immediately after the next watering. In the second part of July, roses stop feeding. Bushes begin to prepare for the cold.

Did you know? Like people, roses are also able to survive stress. In this state, they are in a period of extreme heat, cold or prolonged rains. Help survivethey can do this time by spraying the plant with "Zircon", "Epin", "Ecosil" or sodium humate.

How to prune a rose

It is very important for roses to form a bush with the help of mechanical action, this is especially true when caring for a plant in open ground. Pruning is carried out by removing all damaged and weak branches, as well as those that are directed into the thick of the bush. After that, it is more clear how to further form a bush.

Important! It is necessary to prune a rose before buds swell on its branches. Ifsametwo branches interfere with each other, then the one that is located more successfully should be left. Also, preference is given to a younger shoot with a light bark.

When growing a grafted plant, you will inevitably encounter many extra shoots sprouting at the base of the bush (this happens in the spring). These shoots take away a lot of strength from the plant, which means that there are practically none left for lush flowering. That's why you need to leave only the most powerful, strong and tall of them, which in the summer will be able to give flowers. Everything else can be easily trimmed.

Pruning of roses after flowering is carried out at the gardener's own request, but during the procedure it is necessary to leave at least two buds on the shoots. No need to be afraid to perform this procedure: after a haircut, the rose is more actively overgrown with new greenery. Care should be taken only with a rose that does not restore its shape so quickly or the soil under it is too poor.

With the onset of autumn, all wilted flowers and damaged shoots are removed from the bush. All sections are immediately treated with garden pitch.

plant transplant method

In some cases, plant care also includes replanting the rose to a new location. However, first you need to make sure that the growing conditions in the new place will not differ from the previous ones: the rose will be able to receive enough sunlight and will be protected from the wind. If everything is in order with this, then we proceed to the preparation of the pit, filling it according to the requirements of the plant.

First of all, remove all weed roots from the chosen place. Then, leave the hole for a couple of days - the earth should settle. After that, it will be possible to proceed to digging a bush. You need to try to dig a rose with as large an earthy lump as possible. This is a rather difficult task, since the ground under the rose gardens is very loose and crumbles easily. Therefore, before digging, in order to better hold the earth, it should be watered, and to facilitate work near the bush, it is tied.

Important! Dealing with a large rose bush is quite difficult, so it's best to ask for help right away.

Having prepared a new pit for transplanting a plant, you must perform the following steps:

If the earth turned out to be too loose, and you failed to save the clod, then after digging up the plant, inspect all the roots well - damaged ones must be removed.

It happens that the rose "does not notice" the transplant and immediately takes root in a new place, but most often, especially when transplanted in spring or summer, the rose will take a long time to recover. Roses are quite tenacious, therefore, both care under standard conditions and their transplantation is a time-consuming, but not dangerous process for roses.

How to prepare a rose for winter

They begin to prepare a rose for winter in the middle of summer, stopping feeding the bushes with nitrogen fertilizers (at this time, the roses get potash and phosphorus baits). From mid-September, faded inflorescences are cut off, allowing the rose to fade before wintering. Many gardeners are interested in the question: Should garden flowers be cut in autumn? This is not required, but in some cases pruning the shoots makes it easier to cover the plants.

In hybrid tea species, ½ of the height of old branches is shortened in autumn, while park roses and scrubs are shortened by only 1/3 of their height. Climbing, miniature and ground cover species are not pruned, trying to cover them along their entire length.

Before sheltering garden roses, they cut off all the leaves and inflorescences, since under the snow cover they can become a source of fungal diseases. In addition, pests often persist on the reverse side of the leaves. To destroy them before covering the plants with a film, the bush and the soil under it should be treated with a 5% solution of copper sulfate. Like caring for roses, preparing plants for winter will not take you much time and effort, the main thing is to carry out all the described activities on time.

How to propagate roses

There are not many ways to propagate roses, however, the desire of gardeners to have as many of these wonderful flowers on their site as possible, makes them thoroughly study each method. Let's take a look at each of them.

cuttings

The propagation method of garden roses by cuttings is good because established plants will not produce wild shoots. The stalk is part of a strong shoot, and it is cut next to the leaf bud. After germination using root stimulants, when roots appear on the cutting, you get a ready-made seedling that can be transferred to the ground.

Propagation of roses by cuttings provides for the rooting of two types of stem shoots: lignified And semi-lignified and is most often used for breeding room or park roses. Basically, the cuttings are cut when the green shoots of roses begin to become stiff (at the beginning of the flowering of the bush), but too lignified specimens are not suitable for this role.

seeds

Propagation of roses by seeds is rare. Firstly, the result has to wait a long time, and secondly, n and you can never be completely sure that it will turn out to be positive. Seed germination during propagation of roses leaves much to be desired.

Did you know?Usually, the seed method of propagating flowers is used when breeding new varieties of roses or hybrids. He practices forbreedingwild roses, although not all species produce full-fledged seeds.

Rose budding

Rose budding involves the following steps. On the bark of the plant stem (as close as possible to the ground level), it is necessary to make a T-shaped incision and insert the bud of the selected cultivar into it. After that, it is fixed with a film. The scion can use the developed root system of the stock. The operation itself is simple, although it requires some experience.

Reproduction by layering

Climbing and shrub roses, which are mainly found in gardens, are propagated by layering. This method is considered the most suitable, largely due to the fact that such plants have long and strong stems.

The shoot of the rose is cut in the lower part (by ring cuts in the bark), after which a match or a sliver is inserted into the cut. The cut part of the shoot is placed in a pre-dug shallow groove in the ground and fixed there. The free end must be tied to a pre-driven peg. From above, the shoot is sprinkled with earth (the top should remain outside).

During the summer, roses should be systematically watered, fed, loosened, hilled. Abundant watering every 7-10 days (depending on the weather) contributes to the continuous growth and flowering of roses.

Water should be around the bush or in the furrows, which are then leveled. The soil must be constantly maintained in a loose state so that a crust does not form, preventing air from reaching the roots.

The lower part of the stems should be hilled up by 7-10 cm - this helps to retain moisture at the roots and prevents the young shoots from drying out.

During the season, roses need to be fed 3-4 times.

First feeding should be carried out early in the spring at the very beginning of plant growth (20-30 g of nitrogen, 40-50 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potash fertilizers);
Second top dressing carried out during the budding period - infusion of mullein (for 1 bucket of mullein 10-15 g of potash fertilizers);
Third top dressing needed before the start of the 2nd flowering - (mullein infusion with the addition of 10-15 g of nitrogen, 50-60 g of phosphorus, 10-15 g of potassium fertilizers).
Fourth top dressing should be done at the end of summer (50-60 g of superphosphate, 30-40 g of potassium salt).

For young plants, the feeding rate is 1 bucket per 2-3 plants, for adults - 1 bucket per bush.

And now let's take a closer look at all the rules for growing and caring for a rose.

Growing and caring for roses

Proper pruning of roses .

Pruning roses is a simple operation, but requires knowledge of some rules.

The shoots are cut with a sharp pruner at an angle of 45 °, 5-6 mm above the developed bud. The cut surface must be smooth, without cracks or burrs. It must be covered with garden pitch.

Always cut off shoots to healthy wood. Cut to a bud located on the outside of the shoot, so as not to obscure the center of the bush. Sometimes in strong plants, roses, after pruning, grow from one bud 2- 3 escapes. Leave one, the rest must be deleted. All weak, thin, intersecting, diseased, dead shoots are cut to the level of the soil or healthy wood.

The number of shoots is left on the bush, which ensures air exchange and good illumination of the bush. In this case, the development of such fungal diseases as powdery mildew, black spot, rust, etc., which occur in stagnant air, is excluded.

Proper formation of rose bushes.

Requires special attention in the first summer after planting. All small shoots growing inward, thickening the plant, as well as those growing from the place of grafting or the root collar (in own-rooted ones), are cut into a ring, strongly growing ones are pinched.

In July, the forming prunings are finished so as not to cause the growth of new shoots, which, before they have time to ripen, freeze slightly and often cause roses to be affected by diseases. In grafted roses, wild shoots are systematically cut to the ground, which are especially numerous in the first summer, and in subsequent years it becomes less. In order not to weaken the plants, emerging buds can be removed.

In subsequent years, summer pruning consists in shortening individual, too violently growing shoots, especially in large-flowered rose bushes and stem rose crowns. However, the main task of summer pruning is to encourage the plant to bloom again. In order for the bush to give the maximum number of flowers that this or that variety is capable of giving, the gardener must correctly carry out summer pruning.

! You can’t just remove a faded rose flower with a simple pinch, that is, you tore off one flower, and that’s it; this is a big mistake, because the new shoot with the flower will appear very high.

It will be elongated, thin and easily bendable. It is necessary to remove the flower even before the petals completely fall off, as soon as the flower loses its attractiveness. It is necessary to cut off the flower below, then the new shoot in this place will grow strong and will hold tight (when cutting the flower, leave a 6-8 mm stump above the eye).

! Caring for roses during the growing season (this is spring, summer and autumn) consists in regularly loosening the soil around the bushes, weeding weeds, mulching the soil surface with organic fertilizers, feeding, protecting against pests and diseases, in proper watering, preparing for winter and shelter.

Proper loosening of roses .

Roses need constant loosening of the soil around the plants. In the process of loosening, all weeds are destroyed, air easily penetrates into the loosened soil, and the earth warms up well, and besides, loosening saves water. It is especially important to loosen the soil after watering in hot weather. Loosening is also required after prolonged rains, when a continuous crust forms.

! However, we must remember that deep loosening is dangerous for roses, since damage to even minor roots harms the plant. You need to loosen to a depth of about 5-10 cm.

You can often see how gardeners, when processing bushes, trample the soil that has just been loosened around the plant. After finishing work, be sure to loosen the soil again. Usually loosening is started in May, but in July-August it is stopped in order to avoid inducing the plant to further growth.

Proper mulching of the soil of roses.

When caring for roses, mulching is used with bedding, that is, the surface of the earth around the plants is sprinkled, for example, with peat, humus, peat-manure compost. Such bedding with a layer of up to 10 cm allows you to reduce the amount of watering and loosening.

! Adding (mulching) improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil, the conditions for the vital activity of soil microorganisms.

Therefore, in the spring, immediately after all the spring work, you need to pour mulching material between the rose bushes, and it is better to do this work before the buds open. If the bedding spoils the decorative look, later embed it into the soil by loosening.

Proper watering of roses.

Rosa needs quite a lot of water. Depending on the growth phase, the plant's need for water is not the same. Most of all, moisture is needed during the period of most intensive development, when buds open, shoots and leaves appear, and also after the end of the first flowering, when new shoots begin to grow. Watered at the rate of 1 bush from 15-20 liters, if the weather is dry and warm, twice a week.

During the period of intensive growth, the need for water and nutrition increases significantly. Without enough water and nutrients, the rose produces only weak shoots and frail underdeveloped flowers, usually non-double and on a short stalk. The moisture that rain brings is very rarely sufficient. Superficial, even daily, watering means nothing to a rose.

! Roses should not be watered with cold water, they do not like it. Watering from a hose in May is especially dangerous: this, as a rule, leads to diseases.

Already when loosening the soil, one should also think about future watering, and therefore it is necessary to slightly raise the edges of flower beds and beds so that water does not drain from them, but penetrates into the ground where it is needed. Never water roses in the heat. The settled water is recommended to be poured from a watering can without a sprinkler, in a trickle, directly to the base of the plant, into a shallowly deepened hole. It is important not to spray the leaves.

When watering by sprinkling, as a rule, less water enters the soil than it should be. But if there is no other possibility, then at least it is not necessary to do it under the scorching rays of the sun. You should choose the time of watering so that the leaves have time to dry before evening, but in general watering on flowering plants, especially from a hose, is undesirable. At night, the danger of wet leaves being affected by fungal diseases increases.

The end of summer is the time when excessive watering of roses is not good, but rather, on the contrary, harms them. Excess water encourages plants to continue growing, as a result, the shoots do not have time to ripen in time, and frost can easily damage them. Therefore, with the onset of September, it is better not to water the roses, they have enough natural precipitation. But if the autumn is very dry, then you still have to moderately water the roses, about 10-12 liters of water per bush once a week, so that, having entered the winter period, their roots are not left without moisture. Frozen soil does not allow water to pass through, and roses can die due to lack of moisture. Therefore, abundant watering is so important before the ground is frost-bound. In dry autumn, before winter shelter, it is necessary to provide roses with a sufficient amount of moisture: up to 25-30 liters of water per 1 m 2.

Fertilizers and fertilizing roses

Proper nutrition is an important part of rose care. In the first year after planting, the plant is fed in small doses, carrying out 2-3 feedings over the summer. Basically, top dressing is given from the second year of cultivation.

! Many gardeners make a big mistake by adding fresh manure or bird droppings to the soil for planting roses in the spring - this is simply fatal for young seedlings.

These organic fertilizers are best given to plants in liquid form.

For example, 1 liter of mushy mullein (cow dung) or bird droppings is diluted in 10 liters of water (bird droppings should ferment in a barrel for 8-10 days, only after that it is used, once again diluted at the rate of 0.5-1.0 liters of cooked solution per 10 liters of water), watered only under the bushes so that flies do not start. After top dressing with such necessary, but unpleasantly smelling nutrients, it is necessary to “powder” the soil with wood ash or chalk from above and loosen it to a depth of 5-6 cm.

Usually in spring, roses receive good nutrition from mulching (bedding) carried out in late autumn, in early November. Usually, decomposed cow dung, or peat-dung humus, or simply well-prepared peat, or vegetable humus, etc. are added to the bushes. These organic materials are an excellent source of humus. Thanks to this nutrition, the rose forms a root system more intensively in the spring, and if at this time it is still fed with nitrogen (about 1 tablespoon of urea (urea)), the results will be excellent.

! Remember that roses do not like acidic soil.

Knowing how much they need organic fertilizers and wood ash, and providing them to plants during the growing season, you will always ensure that the soil reaction is favorable for the growth and development of roses.

! Roses require a sufficient amount of a variety of nutrients and always respond gratefully to their introduction.

In order for roses to always smell fragrant in your garden, they must be provided with all the nutrients.

Nitrogen promotes growth of plants and they need it after pruning (in early May), during the period of formation of new shoots and in preparation for re-flowering. The deadline for nitrogen application is the beginning of August (fertilizers that cause growth: urea, liquid organic top dressing "Effekton-C" and "Effekton-DC").
Phosphorus necessary for the maturation of strong shoots. It also affects the intensity and quality of flowering. It is applied from June to September inclusive (simple or double superphosphate).
Potassium necessary during the period of budding and flowering, as well as when preparing roses for winter. Potassium is easily washed out of the soil, it is applied from June to October in the form of potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), potassium chloride.
Calcium needed to neutralize acidic soils. The creation of an alkaline environment favorably affects the activity of bacteria that decompose organomineral fertilizers. Apply dolomite flour, chalk, slaked lime, wood ash, organic fertilizer deoxidizer.
trace elements(magnesium, iron, boron, manganese) are needed throughout the growing season. The absence of iron in the soil causes chlorosis, the absence of boron and manganese reduces the immunity of plants. Apply "Agricola for flowering plants" (granulated mineral fertilizer) and "Agricola-Rosa", any complete fertilizer (always contains microfertilizers) and wood ash.

Root feeding roses in the first year after planting

First dressing (in the first or second decade of May): for 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and granular fertilizer "Agricola for flowering plants" or "Agricola-Rosa".
Second top dressing (in the first decade of June): in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska and the drug "Effekton-C".
Third top dressing (at the end of June): in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate (double superphosphate, if simple, 2 tablespoons), 2 tbsp. spoons of "Agricola-Rose" (liquid concentrated fertilizer).
Fourth dressing (in the second half of July): 2 tbsp. spoons of a mixture of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

! The consumption rate of the solution per 1 bush depends on the size of the plant. Under a small bush they give 2-3 liters of solution, for an average bush - 5 liters, for a well-developed 6-7 liters.

Root top dressing introduced from the second year of growing roses

First feeding carried out at the beginning of the blooming of leaf buds: 1 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea and granular fertilizer "Agricola-Rosa". These fertilizers enhance growth and accelerate the development of plants. Spend 3 liters of solution per bush.
Second top dressing carried out at the beginning of the appearance of leaves: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of Agricola-Rosa liquid concentrated fertilizer, nitrophoska mineral fertilizer and organic fertilizer, spending 3-4 liters of solution per bush.
Third top dressing carried out at the beginning of the appearance of flower buds: 1 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of potassium sulfate (mineral fertilizer), 1 tbsp. spoon (20 g) "Agricola for flowering plants", 1 tbsp. a spoonful of organic liquid fertilizer "Effekton". The consumption of the solution for 1 bush is 4-5 liters.
Fourth top dressing carried out at the beginning of flowering: in 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and granular fertilizer "Agricola-Rosa". Consumption of 3-4 liters per bush.
Fifth top dressing carried out after flowering: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Or in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of concentrated liquid fertilizer "Agricola-Rosa" and 2 tbsp. spoons of phosphorus-potassium mixture. These top dressings contribute to the accumulation of nutrients for the successful wintering of plants and the laying of new inflorescences. The consumption of the solution is 4-5 liters per bush.

Feeding roses with organic fertilizers

All of the above top dressing is easy for urban gardeners who can purchase modern and effective fertilizers in the store. But those who live in towns, villages and just far from the city use long-spread organic fertilizers (manure, manure, compost, etc.), and from mineral fertilizers - urea, nitrophoska, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. These mineral fertilizers can always be found.

First feeding carried out in the spring: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 liter of mushy mullein and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea. Spend 4-5 liters per bush or 1 m 2.
Second top dressing carried out during the budding period: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, superphosphate. The consumption of the solution is 3 liters per 1 m 2.
Third top dressing carried out during the flowering period (July): 0.5 liters of liquid bird droppings are diluted in 10 liters of water, as well as 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate, nitrophoska, pouring wood ash around the bush at the rate of 1 cup per 1 bush.
Fourth top dressing carried out before the start of lignification of the shoots (second half of August): for 10 liters of water take 2 tbsp. spoons of complete fertilizer, which contains, in addition to phosphorus and potassium, trace elements. Consumption of 5 liters of solution. You can take 10 liters of water for 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

! When fertilizing in liquid form or, if the summer is rainy, dry, the specific conditions must always be taken into account.

If the weather is dry, hot, it is not enough rain to give only liquid fertilizers, and if it rains often, it is better to scatter dry fertilizers around the bush and lightly spud the bush.
Usually, with frequent and heavy rains, fertilizers are washed out in a significant amount from the soil layer around the rose bush, so the amount of fertilizer for top dressing can be increased by 1.5-2 times.
Also increase the rate of fertilizer applied to sandy soils. It is better to apply them dry mixed with organic fertilizers (humus, peat, sawdust).

Foliar top dressing of roses

Roses are fed not only from the roots, but also through the leaves. Foliar nutrition is very important for plant health, especially for roses that have an unhealthy appearance:pale matte fine

leaves and weak flower stems, as well as for young and already old bushes. Such top dressing can be done every 10 days.

There are special preparations, fertilizers designed to feed plants through the leaves. They contain all the necessary nutrients, which are added to the root dressing.

These are, for example, « Agricola Rosa» And (20 g is diluted in 10 liters of water), they are sprayed with leaves and flowers.

The drug is a wonderful highly effective plant growth stimulator and regulator - used in any phase of development, spraying on leaves, buds and flowers. Good results of the application of "Buton" are determined by its composition. The preparation contains a unique complex of growth substances. In "Bud" at the same time there are macro- and microelements necessary for feeding plants. One sachet of the drug (10 g) is dissolved in 5-10 liters of water. The consumption of the working solution is 1-3 liters per 10-15 m 2 occupied by flower crops. "Bud" is environmentally friendly, harmless to fish, bees and other insects.

"Agricola-Rosa" (and all of the above "Agricola") promotes the growth and development of the bush, the enlargement of flowers and peduncles (1 tablespoon is diluted in 10 liters of water), the solution is used both for spraying and for root dressing.

The mineral fertilizer urea is also used, diluting 1 tbsp. spoon in 10 liters of water.

Excellent stimulator of growth of roots - . A solution of "Heteroauxin" is poured over the soil in a pit prepared in the spring for planting roses. When propagating roses with cuttings, they are soaked before planting in such a solution for several days for the roots to appear.

! Foliar top dressing is done in the morning or in the evening if the weather is hot, and in the afternoon if it is cloudy.

! In order to avoid burns in sunny weather during the daytime, top dressing should not be done.

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