Brick foundation technology. Foundation brick strip

Most often, a monolithic concrete foundation is poured under suburban low-rise buildings. However, sometimes brick is also used to assemble the base of the house. The choice of this material in most cases is determined by the fact that it can be used to build a very attractive, from the point of view of aesthetics, design.

The advantage of using brick

The estimated service life of foundations built from this material is lower than that of monolithic ones. However, it has been observed that in practice the opposite is usually the case. If the concrete tape of the building is able to reliably protect the walls of the house from destruction for 200-300 years, then the service life of the brick base often exceeds 400. But of course, such a structure will be strong and durable only if its construction technologies are strictly followed. Further in the article, we will consider how to lay out a brick foundation with your own hands correctly.

When can brick be used instead of concrete?

The foundations of houses of this type are erected mainly only on dry, non-rocky soils. It is also desirable that the groundwater level at the construction site be as low as possible. On not too stable soils made of bricks, the foundation can only be assembled with a preliminary pouring of a concrete "cushion" and mandatory reinforcement. With a high occurrence of groundwater, special compounds are added to increase its waterproofing properties. Otherwise, such a base will quickly collapse due to high humidity.

For houses above three floors of brick, it is forbidden to build a foundation by building codes. In case of emergency, it is allowed to assemble a reinforced powerful base of this variety. However, in this case, the foundation comes out unreasonably expensive. Therefore, in practice, monolithic concrete foundations are usually erected under buildings from 3 floors.

Among other things, structures of this type are most often assembled under the walls of buildings made of lightweight materials. For example, a very good solution would be to build a brick foundation for a log house. Very well, this option is also suitable for a cobbled, panel house or for walls made of foam concrete. Under brick or monolithic structures, such foundations are not suitable. In this case, it is also advisable to build a monolithic reinforced concrete structure.

The regulations allow such grounds to be used not only for residential buildings, but also for any other structures. Very often, for example, a brick foundation is erected for a bathhouse, a gazebo, a garage. The technology for assembling such a base for structures for various purposes is almost the same.

How to choose material

There are many varieties of bricks on the market today. However, not all types of this material can be used for the construction of foundations. Only red ceramic bricks are suitable for this purpose, and even then not everyone. The indicators of the stone intended for the construction of the foundation of the house should be as follows:

strength grade not less than 150;

frost resistance from 35 cycles;

density not less than 1600 kg/m3;

water absorption - 6-16%.

In the people, a material that meets all these requirements is called iron brick. When choosing such a stone, one should also pay attention to its appearance. The scarlet color of the brick indicates that it is not burnt enough, and therefore not very durable and moisture resistant. The concave or convex edges of the stone, on the contrary, indicate that it was kept in the furnace for too long. Such a brick is fragile. It is possible to build the foundation of a house only from the highest quality material. Therefore, among other things, when buying a stone, you should pay attention to the reputation of the supplier and manufacturer.

Sometimes the owners of suburban areas, the foundation itself (its underground part) is assembled from red iron ore, and the base is made from silicate brick. Doing so is allowed by building codes. But only in the most extreme case - on dry soils and during the construction of some insignificant buildings (summer kitchens, garages, sheds, utility blocks, etc.).

How to dig a trench

So how do you build a brick foundation with your own hands? Step-by-step assembly instructions for this structure will be presented below in the article in full detail. However, first you should still figure out what the trench for this structure should be, as well as how to properly carry out the preparatory work.

It is allowed to build from the standards only columnar or tape bases of houses. Not collected from bricks and shallow foundations made of bricks. The sole of this design in any case should be located below the freezing level of the soil. For the southern regions of the country, this figure is 0.6-1 m, for the northern regions it can reach up to 2.5 m. The exact figures can be found in special reference books.

Trenches for a brick foundation will have to be dug not only deep, but also wide. Indeed, in this case, you need to make sure that the bricklayer has enough free space to complete the masonry. After the brick foundation is erected, this "extra" space is filled with expanded clay or light soil. This allows to reduce the level of freezing for this particular place, as well as to minimize the negative impact on the underground parts of the structure during spring heaving.

Otherwise, trenches under such a base are dug out according to the same rules as under the usual monolithic one. That is, pre-marking is carried out using pegs and a cord (according to the method or "two curves"), and then earthworks are carried out.

Preparation of mortar for masonry

The quality of the brick foundation is subject to increased requirements. After all, the life of the entire building depends on how reliable it is. Therefore, it is worth responsibly approaching not only the choice of the stone itself, but also the procedure for preparing the solution. Sand must be sifted before mixing. Lime is not added to the mortar intended for laying the foundation. The mixture must be prepared using a concrete mixer. The more homogeneous the composition, the better.

Construction of a strip foundation: preparatory work

In the trench dug under the base of the house, the bottom is carefully compacted and leveled. Next, a sand and gravel mixture 15 cm thick is poured onto it. The resulting “pillow” is carefully compacted with a rammer and water. Then equip a layer of waterproofing. To prevent the sole of the foundation from getting wet during operation, a roofing material (2-3 layers) is rolled out over the “cushion”. Simultaneously with the lower waterproofing, it is desirable to equip the side. To do this, additional strips of roofing material are glued to the canvas on both sides using bituminous mastic.

Mortar support device

On weak brick soils, the foundation, as already mentioned, is erected with the preliminary arrangement of a reinforced concrete "cushion". The latter is poured into a wooden formwork with reinforcement by a frame assembled from a 12 mm rod. The thickness of the “cushion” should be at least 10 cm. Before starting the assembly of the pillars, it must be allowed to stand for two weeks.

Strip foundation assembly

The first row of bricks is laid directly on concrete or roofing material, taking into account the subsequent dressing and filling of vertical joints with mortar. Further, the assembly of the foundation is carried out according to general rules with mandatory reinforcement, vertical and horizontal. It is possible to build the foundation of a brick house only with a single-row dressing of the seams. In order to reduce the adhesion of the walls of the structure to the ground, jointing is carried out (flush). The seams are not processed only if, in the future, the walls of the structure are supposed to be plastered for additional waterproofing.

Do-it-yourself reliable columnar foundation made of bricks: step by step instructions

In this case, not holes are dug under the base, as when using concrete mortar, but also trenches. After all, for laying pillars, a bricklayer needs a place. It is necessary to install supports under all load-bearing walls of the building. Without fail, the pillars must be laid out at the corners. They also need to be installed at the intersection of the walls. The minimum side length of a square post is 380 mm (1.5 bricks). Above the ground, the support should rise at least 20 cm.

To make the masonry even, first, box templates knocked down from the boards are installed in the trench. Under them, waterproofing is preliminarily laid and concrete pads are poured.

Masonry is carried out around these patterns. After several rows are laid out, the box is taken out. As a result, an empty space remains inside the column, which must be filled with concrete. Further, the laying is carried out, constantly trimming the bricks, to the desired height. In the empty space remaining in the center of the pillars, reinforcement is inserted (three 12 mm rods each) and the solution is poured.

Above ground, prefabricated poles are often connected with concrete tape. It is poured in the formwork with reinforcement. It is impossible to connect its parts with each other and with pillars. Instead of concrete, the space between the posts can also be simply bricked up.

Bath brick foundation

The principle of building a foundation for such a structure is the same as for a residential building. Most often, a do-it-yourself brick foundation for a bath is poured in the form of a continuous tape. However, if the walls are supposed to be panel, you can save money and get by with a columnar base. For the basement of the strip foundation of the bath, it is better to use red brick. Silicate is afraid of moisture. Also, when arranging the base under the walls of the bath, maximum attention should be paid to waterproofing.

made of bricks with their own hands for the gazebo

In this case, it will be enough to erect four pillars at the corners of the structure. Under very light gazebos, such foundations are sometimes not even buried. For large structures of this type, 6-8 supports are installed.

Like a brick strip foundation for a bath, the base for the gazebo should be waterproofed. Roofing felt must be laid under the supports in several layers. When pouring the empty central part of the pillars, dowels or rods are installed under the strapping and racks of the gazebo frame. Above the surface of the support, they should rise by 20 cm. The rods are also buried in concrete by 20 cm.

Brick foundation is one of the oldest technologies, which is practically not used in construction today. However, if there is a need to create a small, lightweight building, it can be used. Moreover, all the work can be done independently, without involving construction equipment. That is why many people prefer to make a brick foundation with their own hands for a veranda, a bathhouse or a summer wooden house. Consider the features of laying such a foundation, its advantages and other nuances that may be useful to novice builders.

Brick foundation: basic requirements

Based on the design features, all foundations can be divided into the following types:

• monolithic;
• tape;
• columnar.

The monolithic foundation is a single structure and is poured with concrete, therefore, in this case, it is not made of bricks.

Tape, as well as columnar foundations can be created from bricks, but a number of requirements must be observed:

1. The material must be of high quality and very durable. Experienced experts recommend using burnt red brick - it is sold as defective, which means that the material can be purchased at a low cost. The red brick foundation is chosen by people who intend to save money, but at the same time are interested in quality. Brick defects are in metallized places and bulges, however, this does not affect the strength in any way.
2. It is necessary to take into account the standards for the preparation of cement mortar. In order to do everything right, you need to use a ratio of 3:1 (sand / cement). It is advisable to select the brand of dry cement as high as possible - while experts note that its lowest value should be equal to M400. Since the masonry will almost always be in conditions of high humidity, in order to give it strength, it is desirable to add waterproofing additives to the mixture.
3. The columnar brick foundation implies the presence of a layer of waterproofing under each support. If you plan to create a tape, then it is necessary to waterproof the entire area under the foundation.
4. If it is planned to lay a strip foundation, then the sole must be poured from concrete, with a sand cushion - while the work must be carried out strictly in accordance with all technologies. This is necessary so that the masonry does not crack over time.
5. Before laying a brick foundation with your own hands, it is still recommended to invite specialists in geodetic work. Thanks to them, it will be possible to accurately calculate the required depth of the foundation based on the planned load. However, do not forget that such a foundation is used for the construction of light and small buildings, so usually there are no special requirements for it.

If you are interested in knowing how much the work of specialists will cost, an online calculator can help with this. So you can immediately understand whether it is worth contacting the masters, or it is better to do all the work yourself.

What are the advantages and disadvantages?

If you plan to create a brick foundation, you need to know that it has average strength indicators. At the same time, the brick is rigid and poorly resists moisture. Therefore, it should be used in places where the ground is hard and dry, not prone to heaving.

If you correctly follow all the technologies, then the foundation will last about 40 years.

Consider the main advantages of this material:

• if the foundation is partially destroyed, it can be restored without problems;
• it is not at all necessary to use the services of builders - the material is light, and special equipment for construction is not needed;
• if the soil moves, global destruction is excluded due to the fact that the brick foundation is more flexible;
• you do not need to use formwork to give the desired shape to the tape.

However, in order to judge objectively, it is worth mentioning the design flaws:

• Moisture easily penetrates into the foundation due to the fact that the material is hygroscopic. This factor negatively affects the stability of the foundation.
• When compared with a concrete base, a brick base has a much shorter service life.
• The material can only be used for the construction of small buildings.

However, if you are interested in laying the foundation yourself, you do not intend to spend extra money - this option will be the best.

Masonry brick foundation: features

Before starting work, you need to prepare the following:

• mortar from cement (created taking into account the technology that was described above);
• insulation;
• materials for waterproofing;
• bricks;
• if necessary - materials to strengthen the base (reinforcement) - reinforcement and masonry mesh.

In order to calculate the brick, you can use a special calculator. This will allow you to know in advance exactly how many materials will be required for the construction of the building, and how much material resources will have to be spent in the end.

Once everything is ready, you can start work.

1. We install brick pillars in the corners of the building - it is here in the future that the intersections of the most important, load-bearing walls, which are the support for the entire building, will be located. The best option is to place them along the entire building every two meters. The depth of the pit is 1X1 m.
2. At the bottom you need to fill the sand. After that, it is wetted with water and compacted. This is necessary in order to create a platform that will not allow the pillars to sag in the future.
3. After the sand should go a layer of gravel or rubble. It is not necessary to tamp strongly, as there will be difficulties with the passage of water, and the soil will begin to swell - this is unacceptable.
4. Align with a pre-prepared solution and after everything hardens, put the roofing material. In order for the brick foundation to be well waterproofed, it is advisable to repeat these manipulations several times.

This stage is considered preparatory, and a lot also depends on the quality of its implementation. After all the work is completed, you can proceed directly to the brickwork itself.

Pillar foundation. You need to use columns that fit in a certain sequence (in order to clearly see how this is done, you can find a video on the Internet). During the laying process, seams may form - they must be filled with mortar. After all the manipulations done, the masonry must be plastered and another layer of waterproofing put on. For these purposes, experts usually use roofing material or bitumen, since these materials perfectly protect the brick from moisture, which is destructive to the material.

Strip foundation. If you are planning to build a room in which there will be heavy walls (for example, a bathhouse with an extension), then this type of foundation should be chosen. In order to start building a brick foundation, you will need to dig a trench - approximately 1 m wide. If the soil is wet, then drainage will be required, hence the width of the channel should be 1 m more than the building you plan to build.

Next, you need to lay out the formwork (from boards), cover it with waterproofing, pour a mixture of concrete on top. Using the building level, the concrete mixture must be well leveled. After 2-3 days, when the concrete has set, it will be possible to start laying the foundation directly. Bricks must be laid only in the dressing. In order for the foundation to be strong, it is necessary to put mesh reinforcement between the upper and lower rows.

We create a base from broken bricks

Many are interested in the question of how to make a foundation of broken bricks. We are ready to talk about the technology that needs to be created in order to get a satisfactory result:

• silicate brick is not suitable for use - only full-bodied, made of ceramics;
• grind material;
• add no more than 1/3 of the total volume to the solution;
• the brick should be concentrated in the very center.

It should be noted right away that this option is not reliable, for example, a solid brick foundation will be much harder and stronger. If you're planning to build a house, don't take the risk of using broken bricks as you end up spending a lot more.

Conclusion

A brick foundation is a great alternative for those who need to build a small building, but at the same time a person does not intend to spend big money on work.

It is also worth noting the fact that the brick is a fairly light material, in order to create a base with it, no special equipment is needed. The work is simple, and if a person has minimal skills in construction, he will definitely cope with them. When using brick, good waterproofing is required, since the material can be destroyed by high humidity. For the construction of heavy structures, experts strongly do not recommend using large bricks, it is better to use concrete in this case.

Red brick has been used for construction for quite a long time, however, despite the fact that many other building materials have been released, it is successfully used for the construction of load-bearing walls of houses, as well as for the foundation, although this is now done less often than before. If you opted for this material and decided to make a brick foundation with your own hands, then it is important to know in what conditions it can be used, and what types of foundations are made with it.

What you need to know about soil

Different sites, even in the same area, can significantly differ in the type of soil. Let's name a few types:

1. Heaving.
2. Medium heaving.
3. Non-porous.

To understand what kind of soil is on the site, you need to know how it differs. Heaving is called soil, which, freezing, increases in volume. This phenomenon occurs because ice crystals appear in it. This is facilitated by both the composition and level of groundwater, and the composition of the soil, consisting of pebbles, sand, clay and gravel. The level of heaving of the soil depends on the size of the particles of which it consists. The values ​​are mutually proportional - the highest heaving is in the soil with smaller particles that make up its composition, but accurate data on the quality and composition of the soil can only be obtained in the laboratory.

Brick selection

Most often used for these purposes is a used brick left after the dismantling of a building. This is generally not bad, as it has stood the test of time, but you need to consider that now it will have to be in a humid environment. Therefore, perforated or slotted red bricks cannot be used for these purposes. The ideal option would be to use a solid burnt red brick (ceramic). It is resistant to moisture, durable, but additional waterproofing is required, which will significantly extend its service life.

What is the difference between red clay brick and silicate brick? The basis for the manufacture of silicate bricks is a special rock, which is pressed and baked under high pressure steam. This makes the silicate brick able to withstand very heavy loads, but provided that there is no moisture. Such a brick in the water becomes limp, losing strength and shape. Red clay brick is fired in special kilns, becoming an artificial stone that is not afraid of moisture. This technology is similar to the technology of obtaining ceramics. In essence, they are related, therefore, in order to make a brick foundation, facing brick is also suitable, unless, of course, the plant guarantees that it is resistant to moisture.

Device depending on the type of soil

After determining the type of soil, you can choose a suitable foundation for it and begin preparatory work.

The best conditions for building a brick foundation with your own hands are possible only on non-porous and dry soils. Such a device is most often used for buildings under construction, mostly one-story buildings, the foundation can last more than 25 years.

An ideal option for non-rocky soil would be a shallow strip foundation. On soil with medium heaving, you can make a columnar foundation (for light buildings), and on heaving soil, you need to make a deep strip foundation, digging a trench deeper than the freezing level of the soil.

Strip foundation

Since non-rocky soil is not common, we will consider how to make in-depth strip and column foundations on our own.

For the first one you need:

1. Dig a trench to the desired depth.
2. At its bottom, make a sand cushion and compact it tightly.
3. Make waterproofing of the sole of the base.
4. Make a concrete base.
5. Lay brick with reinforcement. The cement layer should be minimal.

Only in this case, a properly made foundation will not be afraid of deformations, respectively, the costs for it will also be increased, but this is not the case when you can save or experiment.

Particular attention should be paid to reinforcement. For these purposes, steel bars Ø 6-8 mm are used, which must be completely hidden in the cement mortar, otherwise they will quickly rot. It is necessary to make 2 belts of 2 rods in each, at a distance of half a brick from the edge, and bend the ends at the corners so that perpendicular rods can be tied to them with an overlap, but their length must be at least 30 cm.

The columnar foundation made of bricks is done a little differently.

The device of such a foundation, as well as a strip foundation, can be made shallow or on weak heaving soils with a deepening made below the freezing depth. In any of these cases, the brick column is able to withstand a very large load.

Column Foundation

Let's start in order:

1. Under each pillar, you need to dig a hole 1 × 1 m. The depth is determined by the type of soil and the required foundation capacity, calculated on the mass of the structure.
2. Fill the bottom of the hole with sand and tamp it down.
3. Level the site with mortar to a horizontal level.
4. Lay roofing material over the screed. This will serve to protect the brick from moisture penetrating from below.
5. Directly on the roofing material, which plays the role of waterproofing, build a brick column.

In the same way, all columns are made that can be made rectangular or square. To improve strength, it would be nice to lay a reinforcing mesh every 3-4 rows of masonry. The most powerful pillars (51 × 51 cm) are made at the corners of the future building, others can be made smaller (38 × 38 cm), with an interval of 1.5-2 m. The height of the column above ground level is made within 15-20 cm, it is plastered , and after drying it is coated with hot bitumen. We lay roofing material on each column and begin to build. Remember that all posts must be at the same level.

The columnar foundation cannot be left unloaded for a long time, because the processes occurring in the soil can deform them. Therefore, if its construction is started in the summer, then do not leave it unloaded for the winter. Try to finish mounting the main structures at temperatures above zero.

When building a small country house, garage, bathhouse, it is not necessary to build a powerful strip foundation with your own hands or, moreover, a monolithic slab. For such purposes, a brick foundation is quite suitable, which, despite its low cost and simplicity of the device, has very good strength and performance characteristics. In this article we will consider all the intricacies of building a brick foundation.

Is it possible to make a foundation of brick

A shallow brick foundation allows you to build a reliable and durable foundation for a small light house or outbuildings with a small budget. It is easy to build a brick foundation with your own hands - there are no serious earthworks, construction equipment is not needed, the materials used to build it are inexpensive. At the same time, one should not think that a brick foundation is something artisanal and frivolous.

Such statements can usually be heard from those who have had negative experiences using such a foundation for the home. However, as a rule, the reason is not at all the unreliability of the foundation, but the lack of calculations, compliance with construction technology and waterproofing. And this is the most important thing, and in any business, and not just in construction.

There are only two types of foundations that can be made of brick - it is tape or columnar. Monolithic is excluded, since it is a single, reinforced concrete structure.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick foundation

Advantages:

• - In case of destructive impacts on the foundation, for example, when the soil moves, the foundation will suffer only partially, since it is a flexible base;
• - Repair of a brick foundation is outrageously simple, you just need to dismantle the damaged bricks and replace them with new ones;
• - The brickwork of the base allows you to perform complex turns and bends of the tape, and this does not require special formwork;
• - Everything you need to build the base has a small weight that can be carried by hand.

Flaws:

• - The service life of a brick foundation is relatively small - 30-50 years, which is less than a concrete counterpart;
• - High hydroscopicity of the foundation requires high-quality waterproofing;
• - The use of a brick base is permissible only in dry and hard, non-heaving soils, with a low level of groundwater.

What materials are needed for a brick foundation

To build a brick foundation for a private house, you need to stock up:

• 1. Brick (we'll talk about choosing a brick for the base below);
• 2. Cement and sand for mortar and CGS (sand-gravel mixture) for "cushion";
• 3. Reinforcement and masonry mesh - for reinforcing the base;
• 4. Insulation;
• 5. Waterproofing.

For the construction of the foundation, only red solid brick is suitable, the firing of which was carried out in compliance with the technology. Poorly or not of high quality fired brick, which manufacturers often sin, will begin to crumble after 5-10 years, destroying the foundation. But if the red brick is burned out, which is a violation of technology, then this will be the best option, since such a brick is the most durable and moisture resistant. Well, besides, it is usually sold at a low price, considering the "overcooked" brick as a marriage.

Among other things, an important indicator when choosing a brick for a foundation is its brand (M), frost resistance index (F) and water absorption. For the device of the base, it is recommended to choose a brick with indicators: M-150, M-175, M-200, M-250, M-300. F from 35 to 100, water absorption - 8-16%.

The most suitable brick is clinker, and although it belongs to the ceramic types of bricks, it is durable and moisture resistant. Clinker acquires such properties during firing at a temperature of more than 1200 degrees. At the same time, it must be remembered that only solid clinker bricks are suitable, though hollow ones are equal in strength, however, moisture will inevitably accumulate in the cavities in the form of condensate, which will freeze and thaw, gradually destroying the structure. But an obstacle to the use of clinker bricks is its high price.

What types of bricks can not be used to build a brick foundation:

• 1. Silicate brick. It has extremely low moisture resistance, and the absorbed moisture destroys the brick when it freezes. No matter how high-quality the waterproofing is, silicate brick cannot be used for laying the foundation.
• 2. Hollow bricks, the reason is the accumulation of water in the cavities.

Calculation of the number of bricks

Before starting work, you need to know how much material will be needed, at least approximately. This will allow you not to buy too much, because in addition to the cost of the material itself, there are also shipping costs.

It takes about 400 bricks per cube of brickwork, this is taking into account the mortar. How many cubes in your design can be calculated by multiplying the length, width and height of the tape (or the number of pillars and their dimensions - when building a columnar foundation).

At the design stage of the foundation, it should be borne in mind that the width of the tape should be 7-10 cm wider than the wall, this will make it possible later to securely fasten the logs for the floor.

For example, the foundation for a bath 5x6 meters. That is, the length of the tape is 22 meters, the width is 0.37 m, the height is 0.7 m. It turns out about 6 cubes, that is, 2400 pieces of bricks, which means, taking into account possible losses, you need to buy about 2600-2700 pieces. The cost of a brick today is 13-15 rubles. apiece, which means the cost of a brick will be around 45 thousand rubles, including delivery. Of course, this is just an example, the cost of the costs may vary depending on the region, the proximity of the manufacturer or seller of the material.

Cement and sand for mortar and ASG for the "cushion" device

The laying of a part of the foundation, which will be underground, is carried out with a cement-sand mortar using high-grade cement. The above-ground part is laid out with a cement-lime mortar, 1 part cement, 2 parts sand and 1 part lime. Although, if possible, it is better to use a completely cement-sand mortar.

It is important to remember that cement must be stored in a dry room, so if there is none, it is better to buy it in parts.

River sand is used to prepare the solution, and a sand-gravel mixture (SGM) is used for the pillow.

Reinforcement materials

Strengthening the brick foundation is carried out without fail, and this is done in the process of laying bricks. For reinforcement, you need to stock up:

• - rods of corrugated metal fittings with a diameter of 6-8 mm. She will go to the longitudinal laying;
• - for longitudinal reinforcement, a metal masonry mesh is used, with a diameter of bars of 4-6 mm.

Warming materials and waterproofing

Brick foundation insulation is made of tiled extruded polystyrene foam, it is most suitable for convenience, quality and price. For waterproofing, rolled geotextiles or sprayed bitumen are used. As an option, to enhance waterproofing, it is recommended to plaster the foundation with cement plaster, but this does not negate the use of waterproofing materials, since the plaster itself will only temporarily protect against moisture, then it also requires protection.

Brick strip foundation - step by step instructions

First of all, the foundation tape is marked for digging a trench. When marking, one should take into account not only the width of the tape, but also take into account heat and waterproofing, and in addition, if the soil is heaving, there is still a place for sand filling.

After the trench is dug, a “pillow” is laid on the bottom - first, a layer of sand and gravel mixture, 15 cm thick, is carefully rammed.

The second layer is laid with waterproofing, preferably modern polymer, however, roofing material in 3-4 layers is also suitable, with a plant on the walls of the trench.

Preparatory work

Not everyone recommends taking the next step, but when it comes to building a house, we advise you to do it. We are talking about reinforced concrete preparation, 100 mm thick. To reduce shipping costs and avoid waste, you can use composite reinforcement, which is ten times lighter than steel, the price is low, and due to the fact that the composite is sold in coils of 100-200 meters, there is almost no waste and scraps.

Concrete preparation will increase the bearing capacity of the base and create a level surface for laying bricks. However, this will significantly increase the cost of the foundation, so it's up to you to decide whether to do it or skip it.

After the concrete preparation has gained strength (2-3 days), laying can begin. And they start it as standard - from the corners, and is performed with mandatory dressing of the seams. The thickness of the seams should not exceed 1 cm, the seams in the underground part are filled flush, in the above-ground - internal seams are made with a depth of about 1 cm, for better adhesion of the plaster and the foundation.

Reinforcement is performed to strengthen the structure. The first belt, in two bars of reinforcement (6-8 mm, corrugated), is laid horizontally along the tape with an indent from the edges into the brick floor, is laid on the first row of bricks, with transverse reinforcement of the mesh (4-6 mm).

The second belt is laid on the penultimate row of bricks, similarly to the first. Please note that the solution should cover the reinforcement by 3-5 millimeters.

We will not dwell on the masonry process itself, it is no different from ordinary bricklaying, which you can read about here.

After finishing the masonry work, the foundation is left for 2-3 weeks so that the structure gains strength.

Final works

So, the solution seized, the structure gained strength sufficient for further work. For better drainage of melt and rainwater, we fill the space between the slopes of the trench and the walls of the foundation with sand or a sand-gravel mixture, broken bricks, as well as similar construction debris, will also go.

So that water, flowing from the roof, does not fall directly under the foundation, it is mandatory to make a blind area with a slope from the house, around the entire perimeter of the walls. We wrote earlier about how to properly make a blind area.

Before erecting walls, waterproofing is applied to the upper horizontal part of the foundation.

Due to the simplicity of the device, brick column foundations have gained the greatest popularity. Such a base is perfect for the construction of extensions to the house, baths, sheds, arbors.

Advantages of a brick columnar foundation:

• 1. Low construction costs;
• 2. Easy to implement with your own hands, does not require special knowledge and experience;
• 3. No blind area is needed.

• 1. More thorough protection against moisture and soil heaving is required;
• 2. A structure with a columnar base does not allow making a basement or underground;
• 3. It is impossible to build in moving soils, since the pillars will warp after a short time, which will damage the entire structure;
• 4. The construction of the building should be made only of light materials - wood, frame. Foam blocks, and even more so brick or reinforced concrete slabs, cannot be used categorically;
• 5. Cannot be used in an area with surface elevation differences of 2 meters or more.

The choice of the size of the pillars and the depth of laying depend on the project, where the loads and type of soil are taken into account, if there is none, then usually the pillars are made rectangular or square.

• A) The size 38x38 cm is used for light outbuildings.
• B) Foundation with sides 38x51 cm - for heavier one-story buildings.
• C) 51x51 cm - reinforced foundation, suitable for building a two-story house, but only with the use of light materials.
• D) Section 25x38 cm is used for pillars inside the foundation, for internal load-bearing walls.

In addition, columnar foundations made of bricks are:

• 1. Shallow, with a laying depth of 40-80 cm. Suitable for sandy soils;
• 2. An in-depth columnar foundation is built at a depth of 1.5-2 meters, that is, approximately 30-50 cm below the freezing level of the soil.

Construction materials

• 1. Red solid brick, well burnt, it can be burnt, but in no case badly burnt. Roasting gives the brick good moisture protection, and moisture is the main enemy of the brick foundation.
• 2. Cement-sand mortar, using cement grades 400 or 500, with waterproofing additives.
• 3. Concrete for concrete preparation.
• 4. Sand for the "cushion" and ASG for backfilling between the slopes of the pits and the walls of the base pillars.
• 5. Reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm, masonry mesh for reinforcing pillars with bars 5-6 mm.

Step-by-step instructions for building a columnar foundation made of bricks

Step number 1 - marking and excavation

Marking is done with the help of pegs and a cord - first the corners are displayed, then the diagonals are checked - they must be equal. The marking is made on the outer sides of the foundation, so that the cord is the perimeter boundary.

After that, we proceed to digging holes, and they need to be dug wider than the dimensions of the pillars, since then it will be necessary to backfill.

Step number 2 - "pillow" under the poles

We lay geotextiles in open pits, then a layer of sand 10-15 cm thick. We carefully tamp the sand. Sand will freely pass moisture from concrete, and geotextile will not allow sand to go into the soil.

We lay a roofing material or other rolled waterproofing material on a sand cushion, such a layer will well protect the lower bricks from moisture.

Then we proceed to pouring the concrete sole, it is made wider than the sides of the foundation pillar. First of all, we lay a metal mesh with a diameter of 3-5 mm bars, after which we fill it with concrete grade 400, the layer thickness is 20-25 cm.

After 3-4 days, when the concrete sets, you can start laying bricks.

Step number 3 - laying bricks

To obtain a strong and reliable structure, the masonry mortar must be at least grade 400, and it is better to use grade 500.

When laying a square pillar in a row, four bricks are used, every 4 rows we lay a reinforcing mesh directly into the solution. Masonry is made in half a brick, with a cavity in the center of the column.

It is important to understand that at the intersections of the walls - at the corners, the load on the pillars will be maximum, so there it is worth laying out pillars with a section of 51x51 cm, in other places such reinforcement is not required, therefore there will be enough pillars with a section of 38x38 cm.

For a columnar foundation, it is very important that all the surfaces of the pillars are even and at the same level, otherwise the load will be distributed unevenly, which will lead to distortions and destruction of the building in the future. Therefore, be sure to use a level and a plumb line, and if possible, a level.

Reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm, corrugated, is laid in an empty cavity in the center of the pillars. Usually 2 or 4 bars are used. Then fill the cavity with concrete.

Step number 4 - waterproofing and backfilling

We coat the walls of the pillars with bituminous mastic, and waterproof the upper horizontal part by laying roofing material or rolled membranes based on bitumen and polymers.

Let's wait about a week for the waterproofing to dry, and you can start backfilling. To do this, between the walls of the pillars and the edges of the pits, we pour sand, sand, crushed stone or slag.

This is all you need to know when building a columnar foundation made of bricks with your own hands. If you have any questions - ask in the comments. Good luck!

Red brick has been invented and successfully used as a building material for more than one century. But few people know that it has been used for the construction of foundations for a long time.

Brick, despite the abundance of building materials, is still used as a base material for light, one-story buildings.

This material is not ideal, and the construction of the sole of a small house or bath from it is a rather laborious and not the fastest process.

Another important drawback is the high cost of bricks.

Such a foundation can be built exclusively on non-rocky and dry soils, so most developers are not even considered.

But subject to the technology of its construction, and properly performed waterproofing work, such a sole, whether it be a small private house, a summer house or a bathhouse, can serve faithfully for up to 25 years.

We will learn about all the intricacies of building a brick foundation.

Choosing a construction method

A brick foundation is often made using a tape method, since it is the tape sole that is the most durable and economical.

The answer suggests itself if we are talking about a brick foundation.

But not simple, but red full-bodied burnt brick, which is not afraid of moisture.

It is resistant to high humidity and is not afraid of high loads, but only if it is of proper quality and additional waterproofing.

Often used bricks are used for the foundation, left after the dismantling of buildings, it is cheap and time-tested.

In no case should silicate (white) building, or slotted red bricks be used for the foundation.

Silicate - has good strength, but is completely unsuitable for use in conditions of high humidity.

Slotted - practically not afraid of moisture, but fragile, and can withstand fairly small loads.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

You should know that masonry is measured in cubic meters. For 1 m3 of brickwork, as a rule, you will need 513 bricks.

If we subtract the thickness of the solution from here, it turns out that for 1 m3 of masonry, about 400 pieces are needed. bricks.

And the volume of the tape can be found by multiplying its length by the width and the planned height.

Stages and construction technology

Consider a strip buried foundation made of bricks, made on heaving soil. (This soil type is the most common)

1. Stage one: marking and earthworks. Dig a trench to a depth below freezing ground. The width of the tape depends on the moisture content of the soil. The wetter, the wider the tape.
2. Make a sand cushion at the bottom of the finished trench. Pay special attention to its thorough tamping. Use only coarse-grained sand for the sand cushion.
3. The next step will be the device of the concrete base of your future foundation. For this you need. The thickness of the concrete base is usually about 10 cm, so the formwork must be of this height. The width of the base should be half the width of the tape. Don't forget the waterproofing layer between the foundation and the concrete base. As a waterproofing, we recommend using roofing material.
4. A few days after pouring concrete, you can start laying. The brickwork of the foundation is carried out on a cement-sand mortar, in a ratio of 1: 3, and can be performed with any dressing, most often with a standard one. When erecting a brick base, two reinforcement belts are used. The first is done between the first and second row of bricks, and the second armored belt is made in front of the last row of masonry. Steel or composite reinforcement, 6-8 mm thick, is suitable for reinforcement.
5. After about 2 weeks, you can start waterproofing and insulating the walls of the foundation.

Waterproofing - quick and easy

This procedure is simple and can be done with your own hands by almost any home craftsman.

The waterproofing of the sole walls is carried out by coating it with bituminous materials, followed by gluing it with roofing material.

Although you can use any method of waterproofing foundations suitable for concrete bases.

When filling the sole with earth or construction debris, be careful not to damage the waterproofing layer.

Strengthening the existing foundation

The old brick foundation, in which cracks have appeared, does not have to be redone, it can be repaired.

The easiest way to reinforce the sole is to make the so-called bulls.

First of all, you need to make a reinforcing frame from a reinforcing bar or knitting wire. Experts recommend doing it with cells of 20x20x20 cm.

We dig holes so as to expose the corners of the foundation. The depth of the pit should be 50 cm more than the depth of the sole. We put a reinforcing frame in the prepared trenches and fill the entire structure with concrete.

Before making a brick foundation, think carefully, because strength depends on a number of factors in which the quality of the material and soil is one of the first places.