Connecting a wall-mounted air conditioner in your home yourself. How to install a split system (air conditioner) yourself
Air conditioning systems have long been transformed from elements of luxury in the offices and homes of oligarchs, into an affordable and virtually obligatory attribute of any room in which there are people. In addition, climate control systems are installed in rooms in which equipment that requires temperature conditions is installed. For example, server equipment.
The cost of a modern system is not so high; high-quality equipment can be purchased without any loans, within one salary. Taking into account the hot summer even beyond the Urals, we can say that at least 50% of the housing stock is equipped with air conditioners, and this figure is confidently moving towards 100%.
Since modern climate control systems are standardized, their installation is not particularly difficult. However, the cost of work increases costs by 30–50%. Therefore, thrifty owners practice installing an air conditioner with their own hands.
Possible restrictions
There are no special requirements for such work; the rules for installing an air conditioner are usually regulated by the requirements of the SES (they may differ in each region). Additionally, some municipalities may impose restrictions regarding aesthetics. For example, in historical centers, or in buildings that are classified as cultural heritage (or historical monuments), local authorities may establish special rules for installing air conditioners on the facades of buildings. Often such restrictions generally prohibit changing the appearance of an architectural structure. In such cases, climate systems with external modules are mounted on the roof (provided that they will not be visible).
From a technical point of view, there are no additional difficulties, except that the line with freon will be significantly longer (which means the cost of installation work will increase). Another possible problem is the lack of protection from vandals and intruders (thieves). When the external module is located on the wall of the building, it is inaccessible to external intervention.
Sometimes, the literal fulfillment of such requirements leads to aesthetic absurdity.
In some cases, the problem of organizing the climate (especially if it is a self-installation of an air conditioner) is solved by selecting models:
- a window air conditioner does not change the appearance of a historical building so much;
- floor systems are not at all visible from the outside.
We will look at all the ways to install an air conditioner with your own hands, with the exception of a ducted climate system.
For reference: ducted air conditioning requires a separate equipment room with a powerful cooling system. Air ducts (ventilation system) diverge from this room to each apartment (office).
The safety requirements for installing outdoor units are also taken into account. Heavy equipment placed at a height of several tens of meters poses a potential fall hazard. Therefore, the mounting brackets must be reliable.
The electrical connection diagram of the air conditioner must comply with the Electrical Installation Rules (ELR), like any powerful electrical appliance. In addition, energy consumption cannot exceed the technical conditions (TS) of the input connection of the facility. Before purchasing, you need to calculate the total power of your electrical appliances and compare the result with the restrictions set by the company that supplies electricity. It is desirable that there is no need to turn off the climate system when turning on the boiler or iron. Otherwise, this may lead to overloads and emergency situations.
Let's consider the main types of air conditioners, taking into account installation and connection features
Despite the wide variety of air conditioning systems, they can be divided into 3 main groups (excluding centralized ventilation and cooling systems):
Floor air conditioner (second name - mobile)
From a technical point of view, questions about how to install a floor-standing air conditioner should not arise. This is a self-sufficient device, usually on wheels. Such a unit can be installed anywhere, provided only the condition of free space around the ventilation holes is met.
This type of air conditioner, by definition, is connected independently, since there is no work on its installation, as a class. But there is one feature that is determined by the operating principle of any cooling device.
The air conditioner does not produce cold out of nothing (otherwise it would contradict the Law of Conservation of Energy). It separates the air mass into hot and cold. That is, the working flow becomes colder, and the waste flow becomes warmer. For example, consider a refrigerator. The generated cold remains inside, in a sealed housing. And excess heat is discharged into the room, around the radiator on the rear wall.
In the case of an air conditioner, these two flows will inevitably mix, maintaining the average temperature in the room. Therefore, the “excess” heat must be removed somewhere. For example, on the street. To do this, the floor-standing air conditioner has an air duct (sleeve), which must be connected to the outlet flange outside the room.
If the hose is simply brought out into the window, warm air will be drawn into the room, sharply reducing efficiency. Therefore, the hole must be sealed.
The ideal option is the provided section in the window. If you order a double-glazed window and plan to purchase a mobile air conditioner in the future, stipulate this in the technical specifications. If this is not possible, you can install a diffuser in the window. Most owners of metal-plastic windows may object: modern frames do not have classic vents. For this purpose, special inserts are provided in opening full-size transoms.
It looks primitive, but it works 100%. The main thing is to provide a reliable lock for the position of the slightly open window.
In addition to the formation of “excess” warm air, any air conditioner has another byproduct: condensation. The illustration shows the correct installation of a mobile air conditioner with your own hands:
Pay attention to the lower element - the condensate collection pan. The design assumes that water will evaporate naturally, restoring humidity in the room.
Information: when warm room air passes through the honeycomb of the evaporator (cold radiator), moisture remains on the metal and flows into the pan. Not only does the air dry out, but the liquid has to go somewhere.
In stationary air conditioners, there is a drainage hose through which the condensate flows into the sewer or onto the street (everyone has seen how water drips from the outdoor unit). But the mobile air conditioner is on the floor, and it is impossible to provide drainage. Therefore, the condition of the pallet requires constant monitoring. Otherwise, your parquet or carpeting will be hopelessly damaged.
Advantages of a mobile air conditioner:
- There is no concept of installation and installation work.
- Can be quickly installed in any room.
- No need to drill into walls.
Flaws:
- Low efficiency.
- Noise in the room.
- Condensation must be monitored.
Window air conditioner (monoblock)
Just like the mobile one, this unit is made in one housing. Only the evaporator and condenser (hot part) are located in opposite parts of the unit. Proper installation ensures that the hot radiator will be outside, and the exhaust warm air will not enter the air-conditioned room. The illustration shows how the internal and external volumes inside the housing are separated.
The partition inside the monoblock should ideally be in the same plane as the wall in which the air conditioner is installed. If such installation is not possible, clear space must be provided around the ventilation openings. Structurally there are four of them:
- drawing air from the room to pass through the cooler;
- outlet of cooled air into the room;
- outside air intake to cool the hot condenser;
- outlet of heated air to the street.
These flows do not mix in the housing, thanks to the same partition. The condensate drains into a pan and is discharged from the housing to the street.
Where to install the monoblock
This type is not called window type for nothing. A typical place for installation is a window or a special opening in the window frame. Of course, the ideal place is a separate opening in the wall of the building. However, from a technical point of view, fulfilling such a niche is quite difficult. Therefore, you have to sacrifice the glazing area.
How to install a window air conditioner with safety precautions? If it is possible to change the window configuration, the best place is on a solid window sill. Again, when replacing old windows with double-glazed windows, it is necessary to provide a blind diffuser that can be removed in the summer and returned to its place in the winter. This way, the air conditioner will be more intact (room storage), and during the cold season there will be no extra cracks: it is quite difficult to ensure 100% tightness. Don't blow it out with foam.
In practice, most often monoblocks are installed in a window (fortunately, the dimensions can be selected with an accuracy of a centimeter). This is quite simple from a preparation point of view: there is no need to redo the window. However, a window air conditioner is quite heavy: one housing houses a compressor, two radiators (a condenser and an evaporator), as well as electric motors with fans. It weighs at least 15 kg, so installing a window air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands should ensure safety. Otherwise, you will be left without a window and without a comfortable climate.
It is necessary to mount a reliable support, at an angle of 1-2 degrees of inclination outward.
When installed in a window, dismantling for winter storage is also provided.
Ideal installation of a window unit
In Western countries, the practice is to install sliding windows, in which the window is formed by vertically moving the transom upward. This is the optimal place for summer installation of a monoblock climate system. The window rises and a special frame with sliding curtains is installed in the opening.
The air conditioner is fixed on a horizontal platform, resting on the window sill. Sliding curtains tightly cover the body, preventing street air from entering the room. At the same time, the window remains functional: you can lift it, opening access to air when the monoblock is turned off.
Let's look at some of the nuances of installing monoblock window units:
Advantages of a window air conditioner:
- Easy to install: no need to monitor refilling after installation.
- Compact size, yet provides good performance.
- The walls will remain intact.
Flaws:
- Takes up a lot of space and partially blocks the lighting area.
- As a rule, dismantling for the winter is required.
- Since the compressor is located in a common housing, the noise level is high.
- Most often it is necessary to install it on a windowsill, so the flow of cold air is at the level of the person’s torso.
Split systems
If, due to lack of space, the question arises: where to install an air conditioner in an apartment, take a closer look at a system with separate units (so-called split systems). The compressor and evaporator are located in the outdoor module, and the cooling system is located inside. This ensures aesthetics inside the apartment and allows for some freedom in placement.
The operating principle of a split system is no different from any other air conditioner. Simply, the functional modules are located geographically and connected to each other by tubes for the movement of refrigerant (freon). When home craftsmen figure out how to independently install an air conditioner with separate units, this point raises the most questions. Monoblock systems are refilled at the factory and are sold completely ready for use. The split system needs to be connected with pipes and refilled with freon.
In fact, the outdoor unit is supplied already filled. Just in front of the fittings for connecting the connecting pipes, there are taps, and they are closed. Once connected, it is opened and the refrigerant is distributed throughout the entire system, including the indoor unit.
However, proper installation requires pressure testing (checking for tightness under pressure) and evacuation before starting freon. That is, air must be removed from the pipe system and the indoor unit. In addition, the length of the tubes may vary, depending on the distance between the internal and external modules. In some cases, it is necessary to add freon before starting. Therefore, self-installation of a split system is most often accompanied by calling a specialist at the final stage.
What kind of work can you save on (in the sense of doing it yourself)
Of course, installation of the indoor module. There is only one rule: it must be higher than the outer one and located strictly horizontally. Then you need to drill holes to the street for two pipes, a drainage hose and a network control cable. With certain skills this is not difficult.
And finally, the most “interesting” part of the work: installation of the outdoor module. Especially if you live on the 10th floor. However, you can do without industrial climbers and a lifting tower. If the air conditioner is located under a window, you can install it from inside the apartment.
Any external work must be carried out using safety equipment.
Doing as shown in the picture below is extremely dangerous and strictly prohibited!
Also, when performing such work, you definitely need an assistant. Compliance with safety measures is a priority!
After fixing the blocks in their places, a connection is made from each other with copper pipes for the refrigerant. To perform this work you will need a special tool:
With its help, tubes are cut, flared, and chamfered. Here you need to make a decision: perform the connecting operations yourself (with the purchase of tools), or pay the installer, saving on the installation of blocks. Still, if you just connect the tubes and do not check the system (with vacuum) the cooling may not be effective.
How to connect an air conditioner to the mains? Compared to attaching the blocks and starting the freon, this is a simple task. Separate power line, RCD, circuit breaker, grounding. It is clear that many “masters” do without this. However, the requirements of the PUE must be met. Otherwise, you may get electrocuted.
Important! Before turning on any type of air conditioner, make sure that the transport locks of the fans are removed.
When choosing a location for the indoor unit, you need to decide how to properly install the air conditioner in the bedroom or children's room? If cold air blows on the bed, comfort will be replaced by a cold. Therefore, the module is placed near the window, across the bed, so that the direct flow does not cross the vertical projection of the bed.
Important: installing an air conditioner in a wooden house, regardless of whether it is window or wall-mounted, does not provide any special restrictions.
You just need to make sure there is no fire hazard and take into account the strength characteristics of the material. Wiring that may pass through the wall must be laid in a steel pipe. Pipes and hoses are also laid using a sleeve (possibly plastic) so that the wood does not become damp from condensation.
Conclusion
We examined typical issues related to the installation of climate control systems. You can handle most of the work yourself; you only need to call a technician when refilling with freon. In addition to obvious savings, installing an air conditioner yourself gives you confidence in the reliability of the installation. You are in complete control of the process.
Video on the topic
The word split actually means “cleft,” but in technical English it has several meanings. In this case we will talk about an air conditioning system using an air conditioner with spaced units. We will tell you how to install a split system with your own hands in a city apartment and a private house.
How does an air conditioner work?
Installing an air conditioner is a difficult task. In order not to screw up, you need to know exactly what is being done. Therefore, let us briefly recall the principle of operation of the air conditioner:
- A refrigerant enters the evaporator through a narrow opening - a die, or nozzle - under pressure: a low-boiling liquid with a high heat of evaporation. In the evaporator chamber, the refrigerant expands, boils, evaporates and absorbs a lot of heat.
- In this case, water condensation forms on the evaporator radiator (dew falls). The condensate flows into the tank, and from it through the drainage tube to the outside.
- A compressor, designed on the principle of a vacuum pump, continuously pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. As the pressure behind the pump increases, the refrigerant heats up and goes into a supercritical state: neither a gas nor a liquid, something like a very dense fog.
- Next, the refrigerant enters the condensation chamber, also equipped with a radiator, which is blown by a fan. Its temperature drops below critical and the refrigerant condenses into liquid.
- The liquid refrigerant is blown into the evaporator through a die; the work cycle repeats.
What an air conditioner does and doesn't need
From the principle of operation of the air conditioner, it is clear that for its successful operation and economical consumption of electricity during installation, the following must be taken into account:
- Any thermal contact between the cold and hot zones sharply increases energy consumption: the compressor, in addition to pumping the agent, now has to drive heat inside the system - at the owner’s expense.
- Dust and debris in the system are unacceptable: the vacuum pump is a high-precision device; one piece of metal can damage it.
- The system must be completely sealed: low-boiling liquids tend to evaporate even through a micron gap.
- The outdoor unit should be located below the indoor one: in this case, the thermosiphon effect (the heated liquid tends to rise) facilitates the operation of the compressor. Otherwise, the compressor, in addition to the additional electricity consumption for lifting the agent, will also have to overcome the thermosiphon effect.
- The outdoor unit should be located in as cool a place as possible. Any additional heating is paid by the owner.
- The drainage tube should not bend upward anywhere. Any “U” quickly becomes a source of infection: condensate is clean water in which microbes and fungi are free and at ease, and their spores are always in the air.
What is an air split
Air conditioners for split systems are made with separate units: evaporative (internal) and compressor-condensing (external). The names, however, are conditional, because Most modern air conditioners can both cool and heat a room; When heating, the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit and evaporates in the outdoor unit. Therefore, they often say simply: outdoor and indoor units.
In some (rather expensive) air conditioner models, several indoor units are connected to one outdoor unit, which can operate separately for cooling and heating. Such a split system, although initially expensive to operate, turns out to be more economical: in this case, interroom heat exchange does not interfere with, but helps the air conditioner. How a split system is installed in an apartment is shown in the figure:
When is the best time to take a split?
It is better to coincide with the installation of a split system in an apartment during renovation. The work ahead is serious: to install the electrics you will have to walk along more than one wall. If the walls are already lined, include new cladding in advance.
Tool
In order for the split to work and not break down in a day or week, you need to purchase or rent the following tool:
- A hammer drill with a set of chisels - you will have to make a hole 100 mm in diameter in the main wall.
- Reinforcement detector, if the wall is concrete, if you hit the reinforcement during chiseling, you will have to punch a new hole.
- Pipe cutter Under no circumstances should you cut the refrigerant pipes with a hacksaw! There will definitely be copper chips left in the gap, which will quickly destroy the compressor.
- Tube flaring kit. When flaring using improvised means, tightness cannot be achieved. Special mention will be made about tube flaring. Good flaring kits also include a pipe cutter and scraper.
- A scraper (reamer) is a tool for cleaning the ends of pipes. A needle file or file is not suitable due to the same sawdust.
- Bicycle hand pump - to check the tightness of the system.
- Vacuum pump – to evacuate the system before filling. Flushing with refrigerant, which is often recommended, does not remove moisture, and it ruins the compressor no worse than metal filings.
- Phase indicator and tester for electrical installation work.
- Pressure gauge.
About pipelines
Buying pipes
It is better to buy a copper tube in a whole coil: it is better to spend money on some stock, which will then go somewhere else, than to risk the compressor: sawdust may remain in the tube from which it was cut. Also make sure that the ends of the tube in the bay are rolled at the factory, and that the tube itself does not have dents or cracks. Long pipelines will allow you to lower the outdoor unit lower, so that some overruns when purchasing are then compensated for by a good thermosiphon.
Cutting, scraping and flaring of tubes
Before you begin installation, you need to practice flaring the tubes: for an air conditioner this is a vital issue. Flaring is done with a special tool; how it works, what it looks like, what possible defects are, and what the final result should be can be seen in the figure:
For training, you need to immediately buy some kind of scrap of the same tube along with the coil; We do not touch the bay before installation. At the same time, let's practice cutting and scraping: the tube is cut in a circular motion, and when scraping, the tube must be held with the end down so that the scraped burrs do not fall into its lumen.
Installation of the outdoor unit
It is strongly not recommended to install the outdoor unit on the wall yourself, starting from the second floor. Why? See statistics from the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Ministry of Health in the sections: “Resuscitation” and “Urgent surgery”. Fortunately, the upper floors have balconies or loggias.
On the balcony, the outdoor unit is installed very well on homemade shallow (i.e. shallow) brackets, see fig. On any balcony, no matter how you turn it, there will always be a north or east side, just suitable for air conditioning. But even when installed in a loggia facing south, the canopy will protect the outdoor unit from direct rays of the sun during the hottest part of the day, when the air conditioner is working.
With this installation method, installation and maintenance of the air conditioner is easy and does not pose any danger. The only inconvenient operation is attaching the block to the brackets; it will have to be done leaning over the railing.
To install the brackets, the glazing will have to be temporarily removed, and the root parts of the brackets will have to be cut into the lower frame frame. If the “roots” of the brackets are bent down in the form of horizontally located “Us,” then you can do without struts and not touch the balcony lining.
Split system installation
Installation of a split system in an apartment is carried out in the following order:
Now let’s describe some features of each stage of work. The permissible distances from the walls and ceiling for indoor and outdoor units are shown in the figure on the right.
Spaces for indoor units
Indoor units cannot be installed:
- Above radiators and other heat sources.
- Behind curtains, curtains, screens and other obstructions to air flow.
- In rooms with sources of electrical interference: workshops with power tools, induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens, interference can damage the unit’s processor.
The question immediately arises: what about the kitchen? It turns out that you can’t install air conditioning in it at all. Right. The flow of conditioned air into the kitchen is ensured.
Wiring
The lowest-power air conditioner consumes 1.5 kW of electricity. Therefore, you need to lay separate wiring for it with a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm and install an automatic switch - like for a boiler or washing machine.
When connecting wires to the input panel, connect the yellow wire with a longitudinal green stripe to the neutral (neutral wire). Phase and zero are determined by the phase indicator. If the wiring is made from wires insulated in non-standard colors, zero and phase must be marked at both ends.
outdoor unit
Installation of the outdoor unit has already been described above.
Hole in the wall
Firstly, if the house is block-built, you need to determine in advance the location of the reinforcement. It is impossible to cut off the reinforcement that is in the hole: the external wall is always load-bearing, and damage to the reinforcement is unacceptable.
Secondly, a second person is needed: he must stand below and warn passers-by. An accidentally dropped piece of concrete or brick can cost the owner a long prison sentence.
The diameter of the hole must be at least 80 mm. Recommendations of 60 and even 50 mm clearly do not take into account thermal insulation.
Pipelines
We cut the tubes to size with a margin of 1 m for bends. The tubes must be bent carefully to avoid kinks or wrinkles. Wrinkles create resistance to the flow of the agent, and this entails increased electricity consumption. The permissible bending radius of the tubes is at least 100 mm.
Then we put threaded flanges (“nuts”) on the tubes and flare the ends of the tubes. Make sure that the flanges are put on correctly - with the thread towards the end of the tube.
Finally, we connect the pipelines to the fittings. This must be done one at a time so that the cold fitting of the indoor unit is not connected to the hot fitting of the outdoor unit. The matter is made easier by the fact that in most air conditioners the hot and cold fittings are of different diameters.
We tighten the flanges on the fittings tightly, but not too tightly: the copper can be easily pinched. We will tighten the threaded connections later, when sealing.
For drainage you need a piece of reinforced plastic tube. We connect it to the drain pipe either with a threaded flange, if provided, or using a piece of heat-shrinkable tubing. You can heat the heat shrink with a soldering iron using light circular movements, slightly touching the tube with the tip.
Electrical connections
Multi-core wires in insulation with a cross-section of at least 1.5 square meters. mm we connect the same terminals of the indoor and outdoor units. If the names of some terminals do not match, we figure it out according to the instructions and consult a specialist. Of course, we run both pipelines and wires through the hole in the wall.
Sealing
When sealing, we use a method proven by generations of gas workers: a soap solution. We buy 0.5 liters of distilled water at the pharmacy, heat it “to steam” and, stirring carefully, dissolve a spoonful of laundry soap shavings in it.
Problem: The main difficulty faced by the buyer of a split system is the problem of proper installation. Installation determines 90% of the quality and service life of the air conditioner. If errors are made during installation, it is very difficult to correct them later.
Solution: Installation must be carried out by specialists licensed to install air conditioners, in compliance with the instructions and using special equipment. After installation, there should be no debris, dust, or boxes left in the room. The word “air conditioning” has taken root only in our country. This is actually a piece of the phrase air-condition, which translated from English means “condition of the air.” The air conditioner serves to maintain the desired temperature and humidity in the room. By ventilating the air, the air conditioner cleans it by passing the air flow through special filters.
Today we will talk about installing a more modern type of air conditioning system - a split system. What are the advantages of a split system over a “regular” air conditioner? The split system does not block natural light, like a “window” that is cut into the window frame. This is the first difference. In addition, it does not depend on the general air conditioning system of the house, if there is one (this is when one hefty unit stands somewhere in the basement and circulates air throughout the house). And it differs from a “regular” air conditioner in that it consists of two blocks - external and internal. If there are more than two indoor units, then this is already called a “multi-split system”.
But let’s agree: for simplicity of presentation, I will talk about the split system, calling it the word “air conditioner” that is more familiar to our ears.
First - repair, then - split
So, a split system (from the English word split - “split, split”) consists of two separate blocks: internal (evaporator) and external or external (condenser). The blocks are connected to each other by electrical wires and two copper tubes through which refrigerant (freon) flows. A thin plastic tube (drainage) also extends out from the indoor unit to remove condensed moisture. Ideally, it should be connected to a drain (sewer) pipe or to a special tank, but often it is simply taken out into the street, and then drops of water fall on the heads of passers-by (see below for information on how to properly make drainage).
The operating principle of a split system is as follows. If the room needs to be cooled, freon flows from the heat exchanger of the outdoor unit through one copper tube to the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. There it is blown by a fan, as a result of which cold air comes out of the indoor unit. If the air in the room needs to be heated, then with the help of a heat pump the external condenser turns into an evaporator, and the evaporator becomes a condenser. In addition to the condenser and evaporator, the split system includes a compressor, which is installed in the external unit. The main function of the compressor is to compress freon to give this gas properties that significantly increase the efficiency of the air conditioner.
Split system:
1 – outdoor (external) block
2 – internal wall block
The indoor unit operates almost silently (for Daikin models, the noise level of some indoor units is 28 - 31 dB, and for Mitsubishi, when the engine is turned on at the lowest speed, it is 26 dB; the same noise level is created by a flying butterfly). But the fan and compressor of the external device can “buzz” and become louder.
Depending on the method of fastening, indoor units can be wall-mounted or floor-ceiling (floor-ceiling are so called because they can be attached to both the ceiling and the floor). There are also cassette and multi-zone indoor units, but we will talk about them next time.
In apartments, wall-mounted indoor units are most often installed. With the help of movable blinds on the wall unit, you can change the direction of air flow. But the power of wall-mounted units is specially limited - otherwise a strong stream of cold air will simply “blow away” everything in its path. But if a more powerful air conditioner is required in a room (for example, in an office), a floor-ceiling unit is installed. It will allow you to direct a strong jet along the wall or ceiling and thus ensure uniform temperature distribution in the room.
Our advice: if the length of the room significantly exceeds its width, it is much more effective to install a floor-ceiling air conditioner!
Split systems vary in power (cooling capacity) and design. The choice of design is at the discretion of the buyer. But about power, you should definitely consult with a specialist. In doing so, you need to know:
1. Area (volume) of your premises.
2. The size of the window, the direction of the world it faces.
3. Presence (absence) of blinds on the windows.
4. The amount of constantly working equipment that generates heat (TV, computer, etc.).
5. Number of heating radiators in the rooms.
6. The number of people constantly present in the room.
7. Is there forced ventilation?
Another piece of advice: if the company where you want to buy an air conditioner didn’t ask you anything about it, then it’s better not to buy from them. Because there is a danger that you are being offered something that is “not typical.” In reputable companies, before selling an air conditioner, a consultant, as a rule, goes to the site where the device is supposed to be installed, takes measurements and finds out all the necessary details. Then all this data is entered into the program, and only after that the computer selects the optimal model. For example, they work at the Aeroprof company, which specializes in Carrier air conditioners (USA), at the Meteomarket company (Daikin air conditioners) and at the KlimatSS company (Hitachi air conditioners) ).
This is what the distribution of air flows from a wall-mounted indoor unit looks like
What else do you need to know? Experts advise INSTALLING A SPLIT SYSTEM BEFORE or DURING REPAIRS, and not after all the repair work has already been carried out. Then you won’t have to hammer and drill freshly painted and leveled walls in order to lay electrical wiring for the air conditioner and strengthen the brackets for fastening the indoor unit. You can, of course, hide communications in external boxes, but this will not decorate the interior.
Moreover, installation work in a freshly renovated apartment is much more expensive, especially after European-quality renovation.
Now about other possible “ambushes”. Very often, mistakes begin when purchasing an air conditioner. Wanting to save money, we go to the nearest store (or even to the market) and buy an air conditioner. And what? And that’s it: we’re one on one with him. In the best case, after carefully reading the instructions, we undertake to install it.
Meanwhile, installing a split system in an apartment is not at all the same as installing a refrigerator or TV: they say, you bring it home, put it in the chosen place, turn it on and - it works! This number will not work with air conditioning. The air conditioner requires proper installation. This is exactly the case when you can’t skimp on installation. The better it is installed, the longer it will last. It is no coincidence that installation work accounts for 18–30% of the cost of the unit.
I remember how one experienced and reserved-looking installer, answering my quite innocent question: where to start installing an air conditioner, suddenly became agitated and shouted: “People! You are all literate! Each air conditioner comes with instructions in Russian, in which both installation and operating rules are described “for fools,” point by point. Read it, damn it, before you stick your hands in! Better yet, call the specialists.” And, alas, he is right.
Installation: where to start?
Split system installation diagram
1. Communications (in the groove)
2. Drainage (in the groove)
3. Sewerage
4. Siphon
5. Electrical wiring - to the panel (in the groove)
6. A hole in the wall, punched with an inclination of 1–3°
First stage: separate electrical wiring is carried out
Any, even low-power (1.5 kW) air conditioner must have separate electrical wiring and a separate circuit breaker installed in the electrical panel. Because the old wiring may not withstand the load and, God forbid, will catch fire. If specialist installers install separate wiring for the air conditioner, the possibility of a fire is reduced to almost zero.
Be especially vigilant if your house is older than 1990. In old houses, the wiring, alas, is not designed to withstand the loads caused by the use of powerful electrical equipment. Installers remember a case when the owner of an apartment was forced to replace all the wiring because of the air conditioner: the old one simply could not stand it and constantly knocked out the plugs.
Second stage: installation of the outdoor unit
To do this, installers drill holes for brackets, onto which they then install the external unit.
If you place it on an open balcony, then there are no problems: you attach it with bolts, the breeze blows through it - and everything is in order (if the balcony is glazed, then the device will not have enough air to work and it will soon break). If you want to attach the block to the wall, then you cannot do without durable brackets. Moreover, they must withstand a weight several times greater than the weight of the block. On high floors, the “outdoor” is mounted from a machine equipped with a sliding staircase. Or they call climbers (if the installation goes above the 5th floor). Such calls are paid separately and cost from 60 to 150 dollars. And sometimes both equipment in the form of a machine with a fire escape-boom and a climber are required.
External and internal (wall-mounted) units of the Carrier split system
If you live on the upper floors, then the outdoor unit can be placed on the roof. But keep in mind that the difference between the indoor and outdoor units in height should not exceed 3–20 meters (depending on the brand of air conditioner and model).
If your apartment is located on the ground floor, I strongly recommend hanging the external unit higher than 1.8–2 meters above the ground and “hide” it in a cage. Or they might steal it. At one of the companies they told us a story. A man came and ordered only an external unit. The managers were surprised: “Why don’t you want a complete split system.” “Yes, I have an air conditioner inside, but the outer “box” was cut off yesterday. On the first floor, hanging under the window.” Regardless of the height at which the external unit is “screwed”, you need to make a metal canopy over it. This will save the block from snow and icicles, which in the spring tend to fall from the roofs, breaking everything in their path.
In general, installing an external unit is a responsible undertaking. If it is loosely secured, it might fall... on someone. During the warranty period, the company that installed the air conditioner is responsible for the consequences of this. And then you will answer for yourself.
What cannot be done with the external (outdoor) unit?
There are space restrictions for installing an external unit:
1. The surface of the wall on which the block will be installed must be strong (otherwise it may collapse under the weight of the block) and smooth (otherwise the block will vibrate and deform).
2. Do not bend the tubes with refrigerant (freon) several times in a small area and unscrew their connections (this will lead to refrigerant leakage). If the tubes are twisted into a ring with a radius of less than 100 mm, then it will be more difficult for the compressor to pump freon.
Third stage: installation of the indoor unit
Air conditioner control panel
Installers fasten special brackets to the wall (if the unit is wall-mounted) or ceiling (if the unit is ceiling-mounted) with screws and install blocks on them. After that, it is necessary to check the strength of the fastening (does the structure stagger? Does it vibrate when the air conditioner is turned on?). Otherwise, sooner or later the entire structure may simply collapse on your head.
But for the floor block, no special fasteners are required. He, as they say, “will stand on foot.” You just need to immediately choose a place for it (when choosing a place, keep in mind that the unit does not blow on the curtains or on the wall and stand away from the heat source). And although the block is not attached to the floor, but after laying all the communications, it is no longer possible to move it from place to place.
So, the indoor unit cannot be installed:
1. ...above a heat source (for example, above a battery). Otherwise, the air conditioner will work for cooling “until the pulse is lost” and will fail very quickly. Imagine that you opened the door of the refrigerator, and it will cool not only the chamber, but the whole room. It will “work” and fail by the end of the day. The same thing will happen with the air conditioner. In addition, the heat from the room battery may deform the plastic housing of the unit.
2. ... in rooms where devices with high-frequency electromagnetic oscillations (for example, a drill, a drilling machine) are constantly operating. High-frequency vibrations can "knock down" the chip (processor) installed inside the air conditioner.
3. ...directly above the bed or workplace, otherwise there is a danger of constantly catching a cold or, worse, getting pneumonia.
4. ...where air circulation will be difficult, for example, behind curtains, etc. The distance to the obstacle should not be less than 3 meters. Otherwise, the air conditioner, which maintains the set temperature automatically, will fail. The cooled (or heated) air flow from the air conditioner will be reflected from the obstacle and will return back with the same temperature with which it “came out”. The air conditioner will decide that the work has been done, the desired climate has been set and will turn off. This is exactly what happened to my friends. Their air conditioner constantly got tangled in the curtains and turned off before it could bring the room temperature to the set temperature. I had to call specialists and reinstall the system.
5. ...with a skew - then water (condensation) will flow out of it onto the floor, which, according to the installation rules, must be drained through a drainage tube into a special tank (see our certificate on drainage). Stage four: gating walls or floors
In order to connect electrical wires and freon tubes between air conditioner units, installers punch gutters in the walls or ceiling (or, as the installers say, you need to “drill the line”). This is done if you want to make a hidden highway. Sometimes you have to “drill”, for example, not the walls, but the floor of the apartment.
Don't want to dabble? Then you can hide the wires in decorative plastic boxes (sometimes the boxes are hidden under the baseboard). But before doing this, installers will need to connect two copper pipes (for the refrigerant) and the “ends” of the wiring between the outdoor and indoor units. Make sure the installers do this using the connecting fittings. And a “waterproofing cup” with a connecting hose was placed into a pre-punched hole in the outer wall.
Installers arrive on site with all the necessary equipment, communications are laid in the groove, the drainage pipe is placed in the groove at an angle
After this, they must carry out the so-called vacuumization of communications, and always within 50 minutes (it is during this time that “extra” air and moisture will come out of the communications). This manipulation must be done using special equipment.
Please keep in mind that, as a rule, a separate hidden line is made for the drainage pipe (in the wall or under the floor).
Fifth stage: checking the operation of the system using a special program
At this stage, installers must turn on the split system (air conditioner) by setting it to the test program. If everything works and the case does not vibrate, then everything is in order. The work is almost finished. By the way, we recommend that you independently conduct such a check of the system’s operation every year (using the same test program).
Stage six: garbage collection
I must warn you: laying the main line and other installation procedures involve dirt, dust and noise. But good installers (with a license to install air conditioners) will arrive with special tools (including a metal detector to examine walls for fittings and hidden communications).
In addition, installers should have a vacuum cleaner and other cleaning equipment. With their help, after finishing the work, they must remove all the garbage themselves. If installers try to dodge “dirty” work, strictly demand that “cleaning up the area” is included in the payment for installing an air conditioner. In addition, you can enter into an agreement with a reputable company for preventive maintenance of the split system. Then you won’t have to risk your life, leaning waist-deep out of the window, to clean the outdoor unit with a vacuum cleaner or call climbers at your own expense. When concluding such an agreement (it also includes warranty repairs), of course, you will have to pay a certain amount, but believe me, it is worth it. By the way, we hasten to announce a pleasant detail: the Meteomarket company, which sells Japanese Daikin air conditioners, will replace your air conditioner with a new one free of charge after the three-year term of the service contract. However, if you are satisfied with the old unit, you can not change it for 20 years. The company guarantees its uninterrupted, good operation. By the way, in the well-known building on Lubyanka, Daikin air conditioners have been installed since the days of the “corn secretary general” Nikita Khrushchev and are still working properly.
The outdoor unit must be regularly cleaned of dust and dirt. A particularly difficult period for the outdoor unit is the time of flowering of poplars. The fluff instantly clogs the filters, and the air conditioner (if it is not cleaned right away) breaks down. Of course, you can clean it with a vacuum cleaner if you are not afraid of heights. But it’s better not to risk it and call the “air conditioner rescue service” - that is, a service company.
At temperatures below –15°C, the air conditioner may refuse to work “heat”, and then low-temperature equipment (heat pump, compressor heater and even drain tube heater) will be needed. By the way, some models already include these devices (see table).
What did the installers say?
Experienced installers do not recommend buying air conditioners “from anyone,” on the market or second-hand.
“How many times has it happened that some kind of illiterate whiner will carry out the installation, and then people call us and beg us to help,” one experienced installer from a very reputable company told me. “It used to be that such would-be installers would bring with them a copper pipe for freon, but it didn’t have plugs. If there are no plugs, then moist air will get inside. And humidity is unacceptable for an air conditioner: when it combines with the insides of the entire system, it forms an acid that corrodes the air conditioner mechanism from the inside! And instead of serving properly for many years, such an air conditioner is, of course, sent to a landfill after three years.
The installers told me that sometimes they come across particularly stubborn customers, saying, “I’m paying, do as I say!” What should I do? There was a case recently. The client ordered that the outdoor unit be installed not from the street side, but inside the apartment, and in the children's room. He motivated this with a strange statement that his children, they say, would live at the dacha for another two months. He ignored all the persuasions and arguments of the installers that the outdoor unit cannot be installed in a closed, and especially in a residential area. It is clear that after two months the stubborn buyer called the installers to reinstall everything.
Or here's a case. The client wanted the indoor unit to blow directly onto the bed and the air temperature to be 18°C. They tried to prove to him that it would be cold, and that a directed flow of cold air could cause a cold. "No! I won't catch a cold! Place it!” There is nothing to do, they set it. The next day they came to install the air conditioner in another room, and they saw that the temperature on yesterday’s split was set to 22°C.
- What's wrong? - they ask.
– It’s true, guys, I froze at night.
In general, when the air conditioner is working properly, a person should not feel that something is cooling or heating him. Just comfortable – that’s all! One day a friend called the company and asked to come. He says: “I didn’t buy it from you, though.” Okay, let's go. They opened the block, and there was a dead rat.
That's it. Hence the conclusion - it’s not enough to buy and install a split system. The main thing is that professionals do this for you.
Split system installation procedure
1. Wiring a separate electrical wiring for the air conditioner and installing a separate “automatic circuit breaker” in the distribution panel.
2. Installation of the external (outdoor) unit:
3. Installation of the indoor unit:
4. System wire connection:
5. Test activation of the system:
6. Cleaning the premises (by installers).
How should proper drainage be arranged?
To do this, installers must:
1. Groove the highway.
2. Shut off the water in the apartment.
3. Drill a hole in the sewer pipe.
4. Firmly insert a drainage plastic tube with a siphon into the hole. A layer of water in the siphon will trap the smell coming from the sewer.
Attention! The drainage tube through which accumulated moisture is removed must be inclined at an angle of 5–10 mm so that there is a natural flow of water. If the tilt cannot be done for some reason, you must install a special pump for “forced suction of moisture.” But! This pump is not included and must be purchased separately. The purchase will cost between 70 and 190 dollars, depending on the pump model you choose.
The main problems that arise when operating an air conditioner
Problem 1: The air conditioner blows directly at you, creating a drafty feeling.
Solution: You need to turn on the auto-oscillation function of the horizontal blinds (then the draft will turn into a light breeze) or fix the horizontal dampers in a more favorable position. If this does not work, you need to turn the air flow to the left or right using the vertical air flaps. In most air conditioners, this operation is done manually, but in some models it can be done using the remote control.
Problem 2: On hot days, the air conditioner does not create the necessary coolness, despite the fact that it is constantly running.
Solution: In this case, you should check whether the filters are clogged, whether the windows and doors are closed, and whether additional heating devices (boilers or toasters) are operating in the room. It can be recommended to hang thick white blinds on the windows, which reflect heat and light well, thus reducing the heat gain through the windows by almost half. If this does not help, the model must be replaced with a more powerful one.
Problem 3: Water is dripping from the indoor unit of the split system.
Solution: The drainage line appears to be clogged. Most often, this situation occurs when an air conditioner with a drainage pipeline exposed to the street is turned on for cooling at sub-zero temperatures. In this case, the condensate may turn into an ice plug. To avoid this, it is necessary to heat the drainage pipeline to +5 °C using a special cable. If an ice jam does occur, then you should wait for a thaw, and until then, do not turn on the system for cooling.
Problem 4: Reduced air flow.
Solution: Clean the air filter. This can be done with a vacuum cleaner or washed with a soft sponge in warm water. It is not recommended to operate an air conditioner without a filter, since it protects not only your lungs, but also the heat exchanger of the indoor unit. When the latter becomes dusty, the efficiency of the air conditioner decreases.
Problem 5: Icing of the external unit when the air conditioner is operating for heating in conditions of low negative temperatures and high humidity.
Solution: If your air conditioner does not have an automatic defrost system, try turning it on in cooling mode. In this case, the external unit begins to give off heat to the street, heats up and gradually thaws.
Problem 6: Premature failure of the air conditioner.
Solution: To avoid this, do not operate it at temperatures below – 10-15°C. At lower temperatures, the oil in the compressor thickens and its wear increases many times over. There are various rumors about the dangers of air conditioners. But at the press center of the capital’s SES they told us that there is nothing to be afraid of: if the filters are replaced in a timely manner and if the operating rules are followed, the split system does not pose any harm. At least there were no complaints to the sanitary and epidemiological inspection.
Installing an air conditioner with your own hands involves performing a number of works, including choosing an installation kit, a location for the equipment, taking into account all the rules, as well as the actual installation of the indoor and outdoor units. The split system is the most common version of this technique, as it has fewer disadvantages along with fairly high operating efficiency.
Device placement rules
Installing an air conditioner yourself will not affect performance if you follow the instructions included with such equipment (if you purchase a new device). Often the indoor unit is installed at a considerable distance from the ceiling level. This option is quite acceptable; it is much more important to maintain the minimum size between the device and the ceiling, which is 10 cm.
The installation height of the air conditioner is also determined based on convenience and safety, since constant exposure to a direct flow of cool air from the indoor unit can cause frequent illnesses. Taking into account the fact that a split system requires air circulation, it is important to choose an area within a radius of 2 m in which there will be free space.
Installing an air conditioner yourself also involves installing an outdoor unit. At this stage, the range of work performed will depend on where the equipment is installed. If we are talking about a private house or the first floors of multi-story buildings, then there is an opportunity to secure the block on your own. The installation of an air conditioner in an apartment on the upper floors must be carried out by high-rise installers. If there is a balcony, then you won’t have to call the experts.
The best location for the outdoor unit is under the window or at the level of its middle. At the same time, it will be convenient to carry out installation, and it will also simplify the process of further maintenance of the equipment.
The rules for installing air conditioners also include calculating the length of the routes. In order to avoid further unnecessary inconveniences associated with refueling the device, it is necessary to position both blocks in such a way that the length of the route that connects them does not exceed 6 m. The minimum permissible size is 1.5 m. If at the stage of planning the location of the blocks Upon rough calculation, it turned out that the length of the route exceeds the maximum value; it is necessary to redesign the equipment attachment points and achieve an acceptable length of the route.
Self-installation of an air conditioner is sometimes fraught with a number of mistakes, among which the most common is failure to comply with the minimum length of the route. If the outdoor and indoor units are supposed to be installed in close proximity to each other (that is, on both sides of the load-bearing wall of the building), then it is important to leave a reserve, the so-called loop. This will smooth out vibration interference that occurs during operation of the equipment, and will also slightly reduce the noise effect.
If you ignore the rules for installing an air conditioner in an apartment, given the relatively small area of the room, the operation of the equipment can cause poor sleep for household members. In the case where the indoor and outdoor units are mounted at some distance from each other, there is no need for a loop.
Tools, components for installing the device
Equipment for installing air conditioners includes a whole range of specialized equipment that allows you to easily equip the units with the necessary components for full operation. So, you may need a pipe bender and a pipe cutter - the devices allow you to change the pipe configuration without associated damage and without forming chips, since there is a risk of them getting into the filter system. The pressure gauge station allows you to monitor the refrigerant pressure level. Installation and installation of air conditioners includes the need to monitor the tightness of the system before charging with freon; a vacuum gauge is used for this.
After the refrigerant has been charged, a leak test should be performed using a leak detector. Additionally, if necessary, other equipment can be used, for example, a vacuum pump. Allows you to carry out preventive and repair work when servicing equipment. Tools for installing air conditioners include an electric drill, a hammer drill, drills for making holes in concrete walls, and a wall chaser may also be required if you need to hide the connecting routes. To maintain a strictly horizontal position of the equipment, it is imperative to use a building level.
If you are installing it yourself, you will need to purchase an air conditioner installation kit. Today there are ready-made kits that include all the necessary parts and elements for fully connecting the blocks and setting up their operation without losing the efficiency of the system. As a rule, this includes connecting nuts of different sizes, heat-insulating material and copper tubes, a hose that serves as drainage, as well as two brackets for mounting the outdoor unit. The length of pipes and drainage is selected taking into account the configuration of the room, that is, you can choose a configuration that suits the individual requirements of your home.
All consumables for installing air conditioners are selected taking into account the model of the equipment. You should also not skimp on the quality of connecting pipes, thermal insulation, fasteners and freon, since this directly affects the duration of the air conditioning system and the absence of the need for repairs, which can entail extra costs.
Incorrect operation of the equipment, for example, operation of the system with a complete absence of refrigerant in it will lead to failure of the compressor in a very short time, and replacing this unit can cost more than two-thirds of the total cost of the entire system.
Installing and servicing air conditioners regularly will help avoid such consequences; you just need to periodically clean the system and monitor the level of freon in it.
Installation features
The air conditioner usually comes with a mounting plate, which is necessary for attaching the internal unit of the device. The air conditioner installation diagram involves drawing up a small project that determines the exact location and installation height of the indoor and outdoor units, the length and path of the connecting route.
In this case, it is important to follow the sequence of actions, for which instructions for installing the air conditioner have been created:
- The first step is to mount the panel on the wall in a certain place, as well as at the appropriate level. Such nuances are precisely determined at the design stage. The mounting panel is installed using a building level, which will allow you to get a strictly horizontal line. The attachment points are marked with a pen/marker so as not to lose sight of the exact center distances.
- Then you need to drill a hole in the wall large enough to allow the routes to pass through it. If you do not have the appropriate equipment at hand, you can try to route the connecting pipes through the window opening by drilling holes in the frame.
- Installation and repair of air conditioners are directly related to each other: the more accurately and correctly all the work is performed, the less often you will have to call a specialist to set up and repair the equipment. Therefore, you need to take into account even such nuances as the slope of the drainage hole, which will allow you to easily remove accumulated moisture.
- Installation of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner requires special care due to its heavy weight. Brackets are attached to the wall according to the size of the device. It is important that the thickness of the metal of these elements is sufficient to withstand such a load. All work that needs to be done on floors above the second is carried out only by high-rise installers.
Next, it remains to flare the pipes and secure the ends of the routes to each of the blocks. It should be noted that when drilling a hole in the wall for laying pipes, the minimum diameter is 5 cm. If the routes will pass through a window frame, a separate hole is drilled for each pipe. Thus, installing household air conditioners involves several basic steps and does not require significant financial investments if you know how to use the tool.
This article will focus on the outdoor unit. The indoor unit of the air conditioner, as you know, is located indoors. It is the second component of the split system.
The operating principle of a device such as an outdoor air conditioner unit is based on the absorption of heat during evaporation and its release during condensation. The system is usually filled with freon. When the unit is operating for cooling, the liquid begins to circulate throughout the indoor unit, after which it evaporates and then settles in the outer part.
To heat the room, the refrigerant evaporates in the external module, and it settles as condensation inside.
With the help of a compressor, the coolant transitions from one state to another by creating a difference in pressure in the apparatus. At the same time, the system transfers three times more electricity. What are air conditioners equipped with in this case? The external units of split systems are complemented by an internal structure.
Design features of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner
For example, let’s take split air conditioners, the outdoor unit of which consists of several parts:
- Compressor. Its function is to compress freon and maintain its movement along the refrigeration circuit. The compressor can be based on a piston or a scroll-type spiral. Piston models are not as expensive, but they are less reliable, especially at low outside temperatures.
- Four-way valve, which is mounted in reversible models of air conditioners (hot and cold modes). In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of freon flow. In this case, the indoor and outdoor units seem to change their functions: the indoor unit provides heating, and the outdoor unit provides cooling.
- Control board. This part is present only in inverter-type units. In other configurations, all electronics are located in the indoor unit, since changes in temperature and humidity can damage the operation of electronic components.
- A fan that provides air flow around the condenser. In models in the low-cost segment, it has one rotation speed. Such a unit operates stably within a single temperature range supplied from outside. In expensive models, the fan speed is designed for a wide range of temperatures. The fan, as a rule, has 2-3 speed modes and their smooth regulation.
- Radiator. It provides cooling and condensation of freon. The air flow blown through the condenser is heated.
- Freon system filter. The part is located in front of the inlet of the compressor device and serves to protect it from copper chips and other small particles that may get into the air conditioner during its installation. If the installation is not carried out properly, and during the work an excessive amount of dirt gets into the device, then the filter will be powerless in this case.
- Connections on fittings. Copper pipes are connected to them, which serve as connections between the outdoor and indoor units.
- Quick release cover for protection. It covers the connections on the fittings and the terminal block. The latter is used to connect electrical cables. In some configurations, the protective cover covers only the terminal block, while the connections on the fittings are located outside.
Installation of a split system
Every year in our country many household wall, ceiling and window split systems are purchased. Large companies, in addition to selling units, offer installation services. It should be noted that installation has its own nuances, failure to comply with which leads to a malfunction of the unit.
Basic installation rules
Many people wonder how to install the outdoor air conditioner unit correctly.
- The first, main point. The outdoor unit of the split system must be mounted in the outer part of the home, which will provide access to the open air cooling radiator. This means that if the unit is installed on the air conditioner owner must make sure that there is a window there. It will ensure the flow of air during operation of the unit. If the device is cooled in a closed space, this will lead to overheating. While the new temperature sensor is functioning, it will notify you that the air conditioner will automatically turn off until the outdoor unit cools down. At high temperatures, the device will only be able to function for 5 minutes, and it will take half an hour for it to cool down when turned off. If it fails, the outdoor unit will simply overheat and burn out. Repairing the unit in this case will not be cheap. Sometimes it is even more profitable to buy a new air conditioner.
- Second important point. To diagnose a split system, there is also a need to charge the device with refrigerant. During service, the technician must have easy access to the valves, which are located on the side of the outdoor unit (usually on the left side). The valves are closed with plastic caps. If it is impossible to reach the valves, then you will have to call a professional climber.
- The outdoor unit of the air conditioner should not be noisy at night. The maximum permissible value is 32 dB.
- It is necessary to organize optimal drainage of condensate so that it does not fall on the walls of the building, the canopy of the entrance and passers-by.
- The strength of the walls must be taken into account. The wall must withstand a load of several tens of kilograms. It is contraindicated to mount the unit to walls based on aerated concrete, to the external cladding of the home and to the insulating layer.
- Brackets with a block must be provided with the most reliable base and fastening.
- To avoid overheating of the compressor device, the minimum distance from the wall to the outdoor unit must be at least 10 cm. Nothing should interfere with normal airflow.
- A large number of bends in the copper pipeline are strictly not allowed, since the kinks interfere with the full pumping of freon by the compressor.
- The maximum length of the pipeline between the split system modules should not be higher than the length specified by the manufacturer. Otherwise, the level of operational efficiency is noticeably reduced.
- Avoid direct sunlight on the rear of the unit. Therefore, there should not be a very large distance from the outer wall to the external unit.
- It is advisable to provide protection against moisture penetration.
Compliance with all existing rules during installation will allow the unit to function for a long time without failures.
Selecting a location for the outdoor unit
With standard installation, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is fixed under the window slightly below the level of the window sill or on the side of the window, without affecting the territory of the neighbors’ apartment.
There are also not quite generally accepted options for the location of the external device. If the permissible route length and height difference allow, then installation is carried out on the roof or in the attic.
Many people install outdoor air conditioning units on the façade of a balcony or loggia. It can also be installed inside them, provided there is no glazing.
Those who live in private houses or on the ground floor often install the unit under the loggia, thereby protecting it from the adverse effects of precipitation and without disturbing the appearance of the building.
Particular attention should be paid to installing an external unit in the basement. Such a project is possible with increased route dimensions and height differences. If the basement has heating, then the air conditioner will provide not only cooling, but also heating on frosty days.
For this purpose, it is not at all necessary to resort to installing a winter kit on the device or to purchase a system with a wide temperature range, since installed in the basement, it will not be exposed to very low temperatures. The main thing in this case is to ensure normal air circulation to avoid overheating of the heat exchanger.
In summer the basement is cool, so it has its own pole. In this position, the operation of the external module will have a high efficiency index, since the air in the basement is colder than outside air.
What should the outdoor unit be mounted on?
When installing, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner must be secured. The standard form of fastening involves the use of brackets, which consist of two welded strips. They are made, as a rule, from an ordinary profile with different sections. They are equipped with two holes for mounting the air conditioner itself. Such elements can withstand heavy loads that exceed the weight of an average block by several times.
Air conditioners located on stands
Installation of outdoor air conditioner units on the roof, floor or ground involves the use of special stands for the outdoor unit of the unit. They are made of metal that is powder coated. The stands are attached to the surface by means of welded holes (facade fasteners on frames). They have sliding slats that can be adjusted to any size of unit. Typically the stand can support more than 250 kg, which is the weight of a very large industrial air conditioner.
Repair work
As a rule, the breakdown of the outdoor unit is caused by a failure of the mechanics of the device or its electronic system.
The first group includes malfunctions of the refrigeration module, and the second group includes malfunctions in the control board and disturbances in the electrical circuit.
Mechanical breakdowns
These include the following malfunctions:
- the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is frozen;
- noise and vibration uncharacteristic for operation appeared;
- the heat exchanger is not blown sufficiently;
- Oil smudges appeared on the boards.
There are other reasons for freezing of the outdoor module, and this happens not only in winter, but also in summer.
The system may contain excess refrigerant, air, or moisture. Perhaps the capillary tubes are clogged or the device needs preventative cleaning (filters are replaced, panels of both units are washed, dirty deposits are removed from the fan and heat exchanger).
It is common to encounter incorrect lengths of copper piping. There may also be a shortage or increased content of freon.
Electronics problems
An equally serious problem is a malfunction of the control board. Usually it is signaled by special codes and LED lamps. They are installed on the body of the indoor unit.
When the board burns out, the outdoor unit may begin to smoke. Although this phenomenon, as a rule, indicates a burnout of the electric motor, compressor or fan. If the outdoor unit smokes when heated in winter, then this may not be a signal of fire, but of defrosting of the heat exchanger. In this case, steam may be mistaken for smoke.
Regardless of the severity of the breakdown, you must immediately disconnect the device from the power supply and contact a repair service.
Outdoor unit models
Models of outdoor units are presented by different companies. The segment has devices of various sizes and capacities. Each unit has its own technological features. The size of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner may also vary. For example, consider two models from different manufacturers.
Model Mitsubishi Electric MXZ-8B140VA
The outdoor unit of the Mitsubishi Electric MXZ-8B140VA air conditioner is manufactured by a world famous Japanese company. It is designed for cooling and heating air in rooms with an area of 140 square meters. m. This is an outdoor module of a multi-zone air conditioning system with inverter-type regulation. The unit has a high level of performance.
Indoor units in this configuration operate independently of each other, with the exception of simultaneous cooling and heating operation.
System Features
The outdoor unit of the Mitsubishi air conditioner has:
- cooling mode;
- drainage;
- air ventilation;
- mode on an automatic basis.
The outdoor unit has a modern, elegant design.
The module can serve from 2 to 8 indoor units of various configurations, which form the basis of a multi-zone split system.
Inverter performance control guarantees that the unit quickly reaches the desired mode and subsequently slows down the compressor rotation speed. This makes it possible to save energy without compromising the quality of the unit.
The device has a low level of noise and vibration. It uses optimized stabilizers that ensure uniform and smooth distribution of air masses. This allows you to eliminate the contact of air with the fan, and, therefore, achieve a reduction in noise during operation.
The air conditioner has a high level of efficiency when operating in cooling mode. This function is applicable for special conditions of use. For example, to cool a room in winter.
The main indicator of the unit is its high level of energy efficiency, achieved by smooth regulation of the heat exchanger.
Outdoor unit model from Daikin manufacturer
It is distinguished by the following indicators:
- The Daikin RXYQ-T outdoor unit has a special refrigerant temperature control circuit that allows you to customize the VRV. This provides maximum convenience and also improves seasonal efficiency.
- The use of variable refrigerant temperatures makes it possible to increase seasonal efficiency by up to 28%.
- A high level of comfort, absence of cold drafts at low outlet air temperatures is ensured through the use of variable refrigerant temperature and inverter technology.
- The VRV configuration device carries out precise settings and commissioning.
- An integrated circuit in the room temperature control system ensures the supply of fresh air. The system is also distinguished by very simple installation, automatic refueling and testing.
- The presence of a display on the outdoor unit allows you to obtain information about possible malfunctions in the operation of the unit, check its parameters and functionality.
- The high static pressure makes it possible to install the outdoor unit indoors.
- A wide segment of outdoor units makes it possible to connect stylish units from the Daikin Emura, Nexura, etc. household series.
- The flexibility of installing the system is ensured by the length of the routes (the maximum sum is up to 1000 m).
- The height difference between the internal modules has been increased to 30 m, which makes the range of application of the unit wider.
- The system is being put into operation in stages.