Standing turn-down collar patterns with cutting stand. Various collar patterns. Master classes
I was organizing the folders on my computer and found these interesting collars.
There are a lot of them here, and perhaps even small, but maybe they will be useful to someone.
As you know, fashion is cyclical, and if these collars are not in fashion today, this does not mean that they will not be in demand in 5-10 years.
What I mean is that there is no need to write that they are too old-fashioned - everything comes back in fashion!1. Collar with a detachable stand for a men's shirt. It consists of two parts - the stand and the collar itself.
In general, this is the advice to everyone: if you want to cut out a collar, and you don’t know how to do it, which collar is best, and you don’t want to cut the fabric, then it’s best to cut the collar you like from fake fabric (fabric that you don’t mind cutting, it’s better to choose the most suitable in texture), and figure out how you like its shape and how it lies.
In this case, you will not ruin the fabric, and you will be able to evaluate the collar.
And it’s not even so important whether a woman’s shirt or a men’s shirt is the same – the construction is the same.
According to different methods, of course, it differs, but this construction (EMCO method) is quite successful (although there are some angularities and shortcomings).
The shirt collar pattern consists of the collar itself and the stand.
Construction of the collar pattern:
1. We build an angle at point O.
2. From point O upward, we lay a segment equal to 7 - 8 cm, and place point B.
3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 6 - 8 cm (collar width), and place point B2.
4. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
5. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point c) we build a perpendicular up and down, along which we put 1.5 cm in both directions, and put points at b1 and b2.
6. At point B we build a right angle.
BB1 \u003d AA2 \u003d 3 - 4 cm.
Draw the bottom of the rack parallel to the top. We complete the ledge equal to the width of the half-skid. The corner can be rounded or left as an angle - according to the model.
The width of the collar at the front and the design of the ends according to the model.
7. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm
8. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm
9. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 1 - 1.5 cm.
10. We draw the departure line with a smooth curve.
Happy building and sewing!
Quite often you can see shawl collar in clothes.
Such a collar is in demand in blouses, dresses, and even coats, although, probably, most often such a collar can be seen in a robe.
The shawl collar looks very dignified and can be made from almost any fabric.
Pattern it is also not complicated and can be built very quickly.
Constructing a shawl collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):
1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.
2. Connect points B and L, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.
3. From point A4, on the continuation of line A3-A4 to the left, set aside a value equal to the length of the back neckline and place point O.
4. From point O we lift up a perpendicular to the line A4-O, along which we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar = 4 cm - for stooped figures, 6 cm - for kinked figures, and we get point B3.
5. Connect points B3 and A4.
6. From point B3, perpendicular to B3-A4, draw a line to the middle of the collar.
7. Stand height:
B3-B2 = A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.
8. We set aside the width of the departure according to the model, but not less than B3-B2 + (3 - 4 cm), and we get point B4.
9. We draw up the departure line according to the model.
Shawl collar in clothes:
It is presented below and is not anything complicated or scary.
So you don’t need to be so afraid, you can just read it carefully and everything will become clear.
Where can we see an apache collar?
Most often these are blouses and dressing gowns.
But such a collar can often be seen on a wedding bolero.
So, if you decide to sew a wedding bolero, then take note of this collar.
He classical and looks appropriate on many models.
This is, so to speak, a classic that never goes out of style.
Apache collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):
1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside the height of the stand A4-B = 3 cm.
2. Connect points L and B, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.
3. We continue the L-B line up and put it from point B to the length of the back neck - put point B1.
4. From point F we draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to F-B1, along the arc to the left we lay off a segment B1-B2 = 5 cm.
5. Connect point B to point B2 with a straight line and, perpendicular to it from point B2, draw a line from the middle of the collar up and down.
6. From point B2 to the left on the line of the middle of the collar we lay off a segment:
B2-B3 = A4-B = 3 cm, and to the right B2-B4 = the width of the departure according to the model.
7. Position of the front end of the collar.
Point C - according to the model.
8. We draw the departure line and the edge of the collar to the inflection line L-B according to the model.
9. We draw the line for sewing the collar into the neck through point B3 tangentially to the neck, with A4-A41 = 0.5 - 0.8 cm.
This apache collar pattern may vary slightly, depending on the height of the stand.
You can make a turn-down stand:
Or you can make it so that the collar stands at the back, and only its ends are bent:
And you can even do something in between the two options described above:
Below is pattern of a stand-up collar for products with a combined fastener to the top and open to the style.
These collars are most widespread in shirt-style blouses and dresses.
What makes it special?
And the peculiarity is that, unlike turn-down collar patterns with a slight rise, this collar has a kind of one-piece stand-up and looks good both when buttoned and when unbuttoned.
The pattern of a stand-up collar is constructed as follows:
1. We build an angle at point O.
2. From point O upward, we lay off a segment equal to 2 cm and place point B.
3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 3 - 3.5 cm (height of the stand), and
put point B1.
4. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 8 - 10 cm (collar width), and place point B2.
5. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB
7. From point A upward we set aside a distance equal to OB2.
8. Distance A3A4 - according to the model.
9. The collar stitching line touches the line OA at point (A1), located at a distance of 1/3 of the segment OA, from point A to the left.
We trace the collar along the control points.
There is a whole group of collars called "fantasy".
Fancy collars are obtained by spreading out the flap of a flat-lying collar of any shape.
These include a collar, which will be discussed below - this is a “mould” collar.
It is usually built on recessed neck.
I will give the construction using the EMKO method.
It is best to make a mold collar from silk fabrics, because... they will flow and lie very beautifully.
Its construction and pattern is very simple.
A2-B1 = 10 cm
A5-O = 9 cm or more
From the drawing we translate the collar pattern, draw cut lines on it, divide the pattern into 8 parts, along which we cut the pattern from the flyaway side and spread it apart.
The amount of expansion depends on the thickness and structure of the fabric, and can range from 10 to 20 cm.
We draw the departure line with a smooth line so that the collar fits nicely into the folds; it should be cut along the bias thread towards the middle of the collar, i.e. to the line A-B at an angle of 45 degrees.
Most often, such collars can be seen on blouses made in a romantic style, but you can also find coats with such collars.
Collars are very varied in shape. They usually consist of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks. In this case, the stand can be either cut-off or one-piece with a flyaway. The stand and takeoff are separated by an inflection line.
The collar is connected to the product by a stitching line. Its length is equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back. The stitching line can be straight, concave or convex, so depending on its curvature, the collar fits more or less to the neck.
If the stitching line has a concave shape, then the collar only fits slightly to the neck, a straightened or straight line increases the degree of fit of the collar, and a convex line provides maximum fit.
To draw a collar drawing, you need to know not only the length of the stitching line, but also the amount of rise in the middle of the collar. We select it according to the model depending on the degree of fit of the collar to the neck.
For high-stand collars, take smaller values; for flat-lying collars with a low stand, take larger values.
The neck line in products is formed either along the line of the base of the neck, or widens or deepens depending on the model features. The widening of the neckline in the area of the shoulder seams, its deepening at the back and front ensures that the designed collar lags behind the neck.
Pattern of a turn-down collar adjacent to the neck
2. From point O horizontally lay a segment equal to the length of the neckline of the front and back (measured along the product from the middle of the back to the middle of the front) minus 0.5-1 cm (this is a coefficient, the value of which depends on the curvature of the line of sewing in the collar; a smaller value is selected when straight line of stitching, more - with a curved line).
3. Up vertically from point O, the amount of rise in the middle of the collar is plotted (from the table): OB = 2-4 cm.
4. Connect straight points B and A, divide the segment into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.
From O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.
5. Using a smooth line, draw the line for sewing in the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A.
6. Collar width along the back: BB 1 = 8-10 cm (according to model).
The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from A to segment BA: AA 1 = BB 1 = 8-10 cm.
7. Connect straight line B 1 and A 1 and extend it to the right by 3-6 cm (the amount of protrusion of the corner).
A 1 A 2 = 3-6 cm.
8. From the middle of segments B 1 and A 1, restore upward a perpendicular measuring 1-1.5 cm.
9. Using a smooth curve coming out from point B 1 at a right angle to segment OB 1, form the take-off cut of the collar through points B 1, 1-1.5, A 2.
10. Connect straight line A to A 2
Pattern of a turn-down collar with a cutting stand
Thanks to the detachable stand, such a collar ensures a good fit of the product on the figure. First, a collar with a one-piece stand is drawn, then the stand is cut off from the collar. The collar and collar stand change - the length along the line of their connection decreases. As a result, the collar fits closer to the neck and looks better than a turn-down collar with a one-piece stand-up collar.
1. In the drawing of the basic base of the product, expand the neckline along the shoulder line by 1 cm; deepen in the middle of the front by 1.5 cm, in the middle of the back by 0.5 cm.
Draw a new neck at a right angle to the middle of the back.
On the new front neckline, mark the point where the side is ledged at a distance of 1 cm from the middle of the front towards the armhole.
Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the shoulder point.
2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm is set to the left of the starting point O.
3. From point O, move up:
- collar stand height – 3.5 cm,
- collar cut-off height – 4 cm,
- position of the collar stand inflection line – 0.5 cm,
- collar width – 5.5 cm.
4. From point A, put 0.7 cm up and from the resulting point, put 3.5 cm to the left.
VA 1 = 3.5 cm.
5. Through A 1, draw a vertical upward onto which to mark an arc from B with a radius of 10 cm.
BB 1 = 10 cm.
6. Design the sections of the collar and stand in accordance with Fig. The cut line of the stand begins at a distance of 3 cm from point B.
7. Draw cut lines on the collar and stand.
8. Cut the collar along the seam line connecting the collar and collar stand. Make cuts from the collar stitching section to the collar flap section.
9. Place the sections of the collar and stand along the cut lines on top of each other by 0.3 cm at the joint seam sections. Along the midline, the collar and stand-up should also be narrowed.
Pattern of a shirt-type collar with a one-piece stand
1. Construct a right angle with the vertex at point O.
2. From point O, lay a horizontal segment equal to the length of the neck of the shelf and back minus 0.5 cm.
OA = neck length - 0.5 cm.
3. From A to the right, set aside the size of the collar shoulder, which is equal to the width of the half-skid (the allowance for the fastener on the product).
AA 1 = 1.5-2-2.5 cm
4. The amount of rise in the middle of the collar: OB = 2-4 cm.
5. Points B and A are connected by an auxiliary line, which is divided into three parts. The division points represent O 1 and O 2.
From point O 1, a perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is set aside.
From the middle of the segment between points O 2 and A, a perpendicular is drawn down, on which 0.2 cm is laid.
The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 1 by 0.3-0.5 cm.
6. Draw up a line for stitching the collar through points B, 0.5, O 2, 0.2, A, 0.3-0.5.
7. The size of the collar stand: BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.
8. Through A, a perpendicular upward is restored to straight line OA, on which a segment equal to the height of the stand is laid: AA 2 = BB 1 = 2.5-3.5 cm.
9. Shape the protrusion of the stand with a rounded curve.
10. Collar width in the middle: BB 2 = 7-9 cm.
11. From B 2, draw a horizontal line to the right. Its intersection with a vertical line drawn from A is designated A 3 .
Line B 2 A 3 is continued to the right 1-4 cm and placed in B 3.
A 3 B 3 \u003d 1-4 cm.
12. Connect straight line A 2 with B 3 and extend it upward. On it from A 2 set aside 7-15 cm (the length of the corner).
A 2 B 4 \u003d 7-15 cm.
13. The segment B 2 A 3 is divided into three parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve to B 4.
Pattern of a shirt collar with a cutting stand
1. Draw a horizontal line along which to put the value of the length of the neck of the product minus 0.5 cm to the right of the starting point A.
AA 1 = neck length - 0.5 cm.
2. From A 1, a perpendicular is restored upward, on which 2-4 cm are laid.
A 1 A 2 \u003d 2-4 cm.
3. Connect A straight to A 2, extend it to the right by 2-2.5 cm (allowance for half-skidding).
A 2 A 3 \u003d 2-2.5 cm.
4. Section AA 2 is divided in half and a perpendicular of 1 cm is restored downwards.
The edge of the half-skid is raised from point A 3 by about.5 cm.
Draw a smooth curve for the stitching line of the stand through points A, 1, A 2, 0.5.
5. Collar stand height: AA 4 = 3-4 cm.
6. From A 2 and A 3, perpendiculars are restored upward to the segment AA 3, on which 2.5-3 cm are laid.
A 2 A 5 \u003d A 3 A 6 \u003d 2.5-3 cm.
7. Connect points A 4 and A 5 with an auxiliary straight line and from the middle of the segment restore a downward perpendicular of 1 cm in size.
8. Points A 4, 1, A 5 are connected by a smooth curve, and the protrusion of the rack is designed with a rounded line.
9. The line for sewing the collar into the stand is designed with the same bend as the upper cut of the stand.
From A 5 draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry.
From B up, lay a segment equal to A 4 B.
BB 1 = A 4 V.
Connect point B 1 with a straight line to A 5, divide the segment in half and restore a perpendicular of 1 cm.
Connect B 1, 1, A 5 with a smooth curve.
10. Collar width: B 1 B 2 = 4-5 cm.
11. From B 2 draw a horizontal line to the right, its intersection with the vertical drawn from A 5 is designated B 3.
12. From B 3 in a straight line, set aside 1-5 cm.
B 3 B 4 \u003d 1-5 cm.
13. Connect straight line A 5 with B 4, extend it upward and put 9-14 cm on it from A 5.
A 5 B 5 \u003d 9-14 cm.
14. The segment B 2 B 5 is divided into three parts and the right division point of a smooth curve is connected to B 5.
Pattern of a shirt collar with a high cutting stand
The high stand of this strictly shaped collar is fastened end-to-end at the center front line with hinged loops and buttons.
1. Make the necessary changes to the neck on the drawing of the basic base of the product as shown in example 2.
Measure the length of the new front and back neck from the middle of the back to the middle of the front.
2. Draw a horizontal line along which the value of the length of the modified neck of the product is set to the left of the starting point O.
3. From O, set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar stand, then set aside 4.5 cm upward - the height of the collar rise and 5.5 cm - the width of the collar rise.
4. From A, set aside 2.5 cm upward and from the resulting point B, draw a cut line for stitching in the collar stand.
5. At a right angle to the segment OB, draw the middle front line of the collar 4.5 cm long (the height of the stand at this level).
BB 1 = 4.5 cm.
6. Form the sections of the collar stand as shown in the figure.
7. From B 1, set aside 0.3 cm to the right along the upper edge of the stand. From this point, draw a horizontal line to the left 1.5 cm long, and from the last point draw a vertical line up.
8. Design the collar sections in accordance with the drawing.
A turn-down collar without a stand in an open collar is often used when sewing women's blouses, dresses and men's shirts in the Hawaiian style. The ease of making this collar will also appeal to novice dressmakers, since sewing it does not require any special skills.
To create a collar pattern for an open collar without a stand-up collar, you need to take the Neck Circumference measurement (OS = 36 cm). The configuration of the collar edge may vary and is determined by the model and personal preference.
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Collar pattern without stand
Rice. 1. Pattern of a collar without a stand in an open collar
Description of pattern construction
Construct rectangle ABCD. AC = 18 cm (1/2 of the neck circumference according to the measurement or the length of the blouse neck according to the measurement without going over the fastener). AB=7 cm (collar width + 1 cm). From point B, put 1 cm up, from point D, put 1.5-2 cm up. Divide line BD in half. Draw a sewing line for the collar along the pattern.
Draw the bisector of angle C, set aside 4.5 cm along the bisector (the distance laid along the bisector affects the configuration of the collar; the larger the value, the sharper the angle of the collar). Draw the outer sides of the collar as shown in Fig. 1. Pattern of a collar without a stand in an open collar.
Cut out 2 parts of the collar with a fold along the grain thread.
Master class turn-down collar without stand
To complete this sewing operation, you need the outer collar piece, as well as both hem pieces and the back neck facing.
IMPORTANT! Depending on the model of the product, the selection can be cut separately or be one-piece. In our master class, the selection is cut out separately. We cut the upper collar on the bias at an angle of 45 degrees (designer's decision).
Rice. 1. Details of the cut of the product
Rice. 2. Connecting the shoulder seams of the product
Rice. 1. Cut out the details of the product with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm. Duplicate the upper collar, both hems and the facing of the back neck with thermal fabric.
Rice. 2. Sew the parts of the product along the shoulder and side seams, processing the allowances.
Rice. 3 Allowances at the corners of the collar
Rice. 4 Forming the corners of the collar
Rice. 3. Sew the collar pieces along the outer and short sides. Cut off the allowances, diagonally in the corners.
Rice. 4. Turn the collar out and shape the corners using scissors.
Rice. 5 Bottom and front sides of the collar
Rice. 6 Collar ready for sewing
Rice. 5. Sweep the collar cleanly, turning the seam to the wrong side.
Rice. 6. A correctly made collar should bend easily, as shown in the photo.
Rice. 7. Formation of the collar bend
Rice. 8. Equalizing collar allowances
Rice. 7. Fold the collar lengthwise and secure with pins.
Rice. 8. Align the allowances along the open edge, cutting off the excess.
Rice. 9. Fastening the collar according to the marks on the neck
Rice. 10. The collar is sewn into the neck
Rice. 9. Place the collar on the product with the right sides up, pin along the marks.
Rice. 10. Sew the collar into the neckline.
Rice. 11. Details of the hem and facing of the back neck
The collar is the decoration of any outfit. Blouses, shirts and even jackets would have a completely different look if there were no collars. They can change proportions, elongate the neck line and even become an accent of a designer piece. Our today's lesson is dedicated to the stand-up collar. This is one of the most popular elements in men's fashion, but it is no less popular among women. We invite you to learn how to design various options for stand-up collars. It is very easy to create a pattern for any of these collars; you just need to take just one measurement.
The stand-up collar is widely used when sewing both men's and women's blouses and shirts. It is very comfortable to wear and gently fits the neck. We offer you two options - with a cut-off and a one-piece stand. We emphasize that the width of the stand and the configuration of the collar are determined by the model and the designer.
Option 1. Turn-down collar with a cutting stand
Rice. Shirt collar with cut-off stand
To design a collar, take the Neck Length (with placket) measurement. Draw a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neckline according to the pattern and a width of 10 cm (AC = 10 cm) (Fig. 1). From point C, set aside 3 cm upward (the width of the stand as measured) and draw a horizontal line C1D1.
Divide the CD in half (division points are indicated by crosses). From point D, set aside 0.5 cm upwards and to the right. From point D2, set aside 0.5 cm upwards. Draw a stand-up collar with a rounded upper corner.
Fly-off collar
From point A, set down 5 cm (the width of the collar). From point D, set aside DD1=1/2 of the width of the plank. From point D1, draw an auxiliary line upward and construct a flight collar configuration.
IMPORTANT! The width and configuration of the departure collar depends on the model and design solution.
Rice. 1. Pattern of a shirt collar with a cutting stand
Separately transfer the stand-up collar and the fly-away collar onto tracing paper and cut them out with seam allowances of 1.5 cm (Fig. 1a). The inner part of the stand and the outer part of the flight collar
Rice. 1a. Details of the cut of a shirt collar with a cutting stand
Option 2. Turn-down collar with a one-piece stand
Rice. Shirt collar with one-piece stand
Draw a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neckline according to the pattern and a width of 10 cm (AC = 10 cm). From point C, set aside 2 cm, 3 cm (stand-up collar width), 4 cm (stand-up collar width) upward (Fig. 2).
Divide the CD in half and set aside 0.7 cm from the division point. Divide the right half of the collar in half. From point D, move 1 cm up and 0.5 cm to the right. Draw the bottom line of the collar as shown in Fig. 4.
From point 0.5, draw the short side of the stand-up collar, 2.4 cm long. Draw the top side of the stand-up collar parallel to the bottom side.
From point 0.5 (stand), set aside ½ of the width of the strip along the pattern to the left and draw an auxiliary line to side AB. From point B, move 1 cm to the left and draw the configuration of the take-off collar as shown in Fig. 2.
Rice. 2. Pattern of a shirt collar with a one-piece stand
Transfer the collar onto tracing paper and cut it out with seam allowances of 1.5 cm (Fig. 2a). Duplicate the outer part of the collar with thermal fabric.
Rice. 2a. Layout on the fabric of a collar with a one-piece stand
Mandarin collar pattern
A stand-up collar that fits tightly to the neck without the usual fastening at the front is called a mandarin collar. In some cases, the collar may have a clasp, which is usually a loop that goes over a button on the stem. The edges of the collar can be rounded or straight, depending on the model. The height of such a collar can be from 4 to 5 cm. The collar owes its name to the traditional Chinese costume from which it was “copied” and worn by officials of Imperial China - mandarins. Subsequently, this name was assigned to this form of collar.
Rice. Mandarin collar
To create a collar pattern, use the pattern of the front and back of the product. Take measurements of the length of the front neck and back from the product pattern (between the control points and the collar stitchings).
Construct a rectangle ABCD with a length of ½ the length of the neck according to the pattern and a height of 6.5 cm (Fig. 3). From point C, set aside 4 cm upward (collar width may vary depending on the model), in our case CC1 = 4 cm. From point D, set aside 3 cm upward. Draw a slightly curved line for sewing in the collar. At right angles, draw the short side of the collar (D1B1) to the segment AB and the upper side of the collar B1C1 along the pattern or by hand.
Rice. 3. Mandarin collar pattern
Cut out 2 collar pieces with a fold in the center of the back. Seam allowances are 1.5 cm on all sides (Fig. 3a). Duplicate the outer part of the collar with a gasket.
Rice. 3a. Layout of mandarin collar fabric
Tuxedo collar pattern
Another option for a stand-up collar for real ladies is the tuxedo collar. This collar is used to make blouses and shirts that are worn with a bow tie. Traditionally, the shirt is worn on formal occasions under a tuxedo, hence the name.
From the product pattern, take measurements of the length of the neck (with the strap). Draw a rectangle ABCD. AB = ½ length of the neck according to the pattern, AC = 7.5 cm. From point C, set aside the length of the back neck according to pattern CC2. From point C2, draw a short vertical auxiliary line upward. From point D, set DD1=1 cm up. Connect C2D1 as shown in Fig. 4.
Rice. Tuxedo collar
Collar width CC1=3.5 cm. From point D, set aside 1.5 cm to the left (½ the width of the placket according to the pattern). BB1= 4.5 cm. Connect points 1.5 and 4.5. Place the segment DD1=2.5 cm at a right angle. Draw the outer edge of the collar according to the configuration in Fig. 4.
Rice. 4. Tuxedo collar pattern
Cut out 2 collar pieces with a fold in the center of the back. Seam allowances are 1.5 cm on all sides (Fig. 4a). Duplicate the inner part of the collar with a gasket.
Rice. 4a. Layout of tuxedo collar fabric