Raspberry pests with photos and control methods. How to deal with raspberry flies How to spray raspberries against raspberry flies

Gardeners and gardeners always have a lot to do to save their crops. It just so happens that for every plant there is at least one pest. Raspberry bushes also have such a “personal” enemy. In spring, young shoots are threatened by the raspberry stem fly. If you do not fight the insects, you may be left without fresh berries and winter supplies of jam.

The fly that loves raspberries

The raspberry stem fly places one white oval egg on the apical leaves of young shoots. One female can lay up to 90 pieces. And already at this moment the leaves begin to slowly fade. At this stage everything is fine in the lower part of the raspberry tree. A week later, a legless, cylindrical white larva emerges from the egg. The stems of young shoots are soft, so the larva penetrates under their skin without much difficulty. While feeding, it shreds the stem and gnaws through passages: first - straight down, ring-shaped - into the core, and then damages the base of the shoot.

Larvae feed on plant fiber in shoot cracks

It turns out that when last year's shoots bloom, the satiated larvae have already gone through the gnawed passage into the soil for the winter (in the form of a pupa). And in the spring the cycle repeats.

Table: what the raspberry stem fly looks like and where it lives

Photo gallery: appearance of the fly and signs of damage to the bushes

An adult raspberry fly lives on plant stems Through the gnawed stem, raspberry fly larvae go into the soil for the winter. Raspberry stem fly lays eggs on the tops of young shoots

How does a stem fly get into a raspberry tree?

Some agricultural mistakes can cause pests to appear on bushes:

• bad neighborhood - you should not plant new raspberry bushes near blackberries, meadowsweet and meadowsweet. These plants are susceptible to attack by the raspberry stem fly. The same goes for the neighbor's raspberry garden - no fence will save you from the pest;
• raspberry thicket - do not start a raspberry thicket. Trim bushes on time. It is important to dig up the soil well, and this is difficult to do if the plantings have turned into a dense impenetrable forest;
• fly on honey - the raspberry stem fly can be lured by aphids, or more precisely, by the honeydew secreted by them. If you do not fight one pest, the appearance of another will not be long in coming;
• unkind fertilizer - fly larvae can get in with contaminated humus when mulching the soil under the bushes.

Fighting raspberry stem fly

It is better to start measures to combat the raspberry fly in advance, applying some preventive measures before the insects begin to fly. In the fight against a pest that has already appeared, the main thing is not to miss the moment when plants begin to be damaged. If you let the raspberry fly run wild, up to 80% of the young shoots will die.

• inspect the bushes in a timely manner, remove damaged shoots;
• Having discovered the first fading leaves on the tops of raspberry bushes, urgently cut them off. This must be done just below the site of damage;
• The main thing is to have time to trim before the larva descends. If, when inspecting the pruning site, a hole is visible in the middle of the stem, you will have to trim further (to the part not touched by the pest). Removed leaves and parts of stems must be burned;
• be sure to thoroughly loosen the soil under the raspberry bushes in early spring (before the flies fly) and in the fall (when the larvae begin to overwinter in a cocoon). Maybe not all the larvae will die, but most of them will definitely die;
• sprinkle a thick layer of wood ash on the ground under the raspberry tree;
• mow the weeds around the site in a timely manner;
• Every year, with the arrival of spring, treat the bushes with Bordeaux mixture.

Bordeaux mixture (an aqueous solution of calcium hydroxide and sulfate) is a drug with a long history of use. Back in the 19th century, this substance was used to spray plantings affected by fungal diseases and pests. Acts on a diseased plant as an antibiotic.

The benefit of using Bordeaux mixture in protecting plants from raspberry stem fly is to increase their resistance. Healthy shoots have a better chance of fighting the pest. Since after the appearance of damage from the vital activity of larvae in raspberry bushes, the risk of “catching sores” increases. For spraying, a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used (100 g of quicklime and copper sulfate are taken per 10 liters of water).

Video: how to prepare Bordeaux mixture

Spraying raspberries

There are special preparations from which solutions for spraying bushes are prepared. Biological agents are used immediately after flowering, and chemical agents are used during the period of shoot growth.

Table: means of controlling stem fly

Name of the drug, brief description	Short description	Active substance	Release form	Dosage	Number of treatments; exposure time	How to process
Fitoverm	insectoacaricide of enteric contact action	aversectin C	in ampoules	1.5 ml per 1 liter of water	2 (interval 7–10 days); the effect occurs within 10–16 hours	Spraying bushes infected with raspberry fly larvae.
Akarin	bioinsecticide of contact-intestinal action	extract from streptomyces fungus	in ampoules and liter bottles	2–3 ml per 1 liter of water	the effect occurs on the second day, and the complete disappearance of the pest is observed after 1–2 weeks	Spraying bushes infected with raspberry fly larvae. It is not recommended to process in hot weather.
Karbofos (preparations Iskra, Actellik, Fufanon, etc.)	FOS, insectoacaricide	malathion	in all forms and with different concentrations	0.2% solution (20 ml of 50% emulsion concentrate per 10 l of water. When using 10% karbofos emulsion concentrate per 10 l of water, take 75 ml of the drug)	2-3 times (interval 7-10 days) during the flight of insects	Spraying young shoots and soil under bushes.
Kerosene	widely used flammable substance			Water-kerosene composition (1%): 100 ml of kerosene per 10 liters of water	2-3 times (interval 7-10 days) during the flight of insects	Spraying young shoots and soil under bushes.

Important! You cannot spray with Karbofos-based solutions during flowering plants, or near hives. The drug is toxic to bees and other pollinating insects.

Video: spring treatment of raspberries from pests

Folk remedies

Although the effectiveness of folk recipes in combating this pest is questionable, many gardeners prefer to first experiment with “eco-remedies” before using chemicals. The following folk methods with a repellent effect may be useful in the fight against pests:

• treating the bushes with a water-mustard solution (a glass of powder per 10 liters of warm water);
• spraying raspberries during the budding period with a herbal decoction of tansy (300 g of dried tansy is boiled for 20–30 minutes in 3–5 liters of water, the decoction is infused for 24 hours. The volume is adjusted to 10 liters with cold water);
• planting garlic and onions in close proximity to raspberry bushes.

A good prevention of infection by larvae of the stems of raspberry bushes is loosening in the rows during the period of insect pupation. This simple method will reduce pest fly colonies several times. In some cases, the top layer of soil (about 3 cm) should be completely removed and replaced with humus, manure, and a layer of sawdust.

Photo gallery: folk recipes for raspberry flies

Raspberries can be treated against pests with a solution of mustard powder Tansy decoction repels many pests, including the raspberry stem fly The proximity to beds of onions and garlic protects raspberries from stem flies

Pest-resistant varieties

It turns out that the variety of raspberry also determines a lot. Some species are considered more resistant to pest attack. Here it all depends on the shoots: it is better if they are more pubescent and not very cracked at the beginning of growth. Recommended varieties with relative resistance to the pest:

• Faith,
• Bell,
• Zorenka,
• Balm,
• Reward,
• Seedling,
• Rubinova,
• Sokolyonok,
• Brilliant.

Twice I came across this problem, as they say, face to face. The first time I was completely unarmed and unskilled, and I missed the moment - I lost most of the raspberry harvest. The bushes were in a deplorable state; chemicals were needed that I really didn’t want to use.

The second time I decided to defend my raspberry bushes at all costs and won - well, the neighbors told me how to deal with this raspberry pest, and I didn’t need chemicals.

The raspberry fly is a very small insect, less than 5 mm in size, gray in color. Small things are harmful, as they say. Knowledge about the life cycle of this insect will help you fight it effectively. Around mid-May, the female fly lays eggs at the base of young raspberry leaves, and after about a week you should expect more!

After hatching, the larvae gnaw through the stem and the young shoot dies - it turns black and dries right before our eyes. At the break in the stem you will see a walker and a little white worm.

During the flowering of the bush, the larva already leaves it - going into the ground until next spring. Around the end of April - beginning of May, a fly will emerge from the cocoon (overwintering in the top layer of soil) and again attack your raspberry tree.

Natural methods of controlling raspberry flies (without chemicals)

The first method is to shallowly dig the soil around the raspberry stems. The pupae overwinter no deeper than 6 cm from the surface of the ground and loosening the soil will not allow them to overwinter - they will simply freeze out with the first frost. In early spring - preferably until mid-April, the soil in the raspberry patch should be mulched; rotted manure is best.

It should be mulched with a layer of 8-10 cm, then the surviving pupae simply will not be able to crawl out into the “white light”. In addition, you should keep a close eye on young shoots.

The method of inspecting shoots and removing diseased ones is the most effective. At the slightest suspicion of a pest, the shoot should be cut off, preferably at the root. But if the shoot is long and good, then only the damaged part can be cut off (but with a margin).

This will not harm it at all - new shoots will grow from the sinuses and bear fruit. Cut, damaged stems should be burned as quickly as possible!

I used these methods to fight this pest. In the second year there was much less damage, and after two years there was none left - I got rid of the raspberry stem fly. Now I spray it with a soda solution only once a year, when the berries are set - I take two tablespoons of soda per 10 liters of water.

In addition to this pest, raspberries are threatened by raspberry beetles, spider mites, weevils, aphids, sawflies, leaf rollers and gall midges. First you need to identify the pest, and then neutralize it. Often, this still requires resorting to chemical treatment of the plant—spraying with insecticides. This is done before the raspberries bloom.

The appearance of a raspberry fly in a garden bed can interfere with your plans. What kind of fly is this, how to recognize it, and what measures to combat it will save the raspberry plant, because after planting varietal raspberries, you want to count on a bountiful harvest of tasty berries. It is more correct to call it raspberry stem fly.

What does a raspberry fly look like?

As soon as the raspberry stems begin to grow with the beginning of spring, the active breeding period of a very unpleasant pest begins - the raspberry fly. This is a small gray insect (up to 7 mm) that lays fertilized eggs in the axils of young leaves. In the middle zone, the mass emergence and reproduction of insects depends on weather conditions and occurs mainly at the end of April - mid-May.

The larvae hatching from the eggs gnaw holes in the raspberry stems, gradually descending to the base of the young shoot.

The development cycle ends with the fly emerging from the stem, burrowing into the surface layer of soil of the raspberry tree, pupating and hibernating until next spring. During the season, one generation of insects changes.

Raspberry fly larvae cause serious damage to young raspberry shoots.

How to recognize a pest

If the tops of young shoots suddenly wither and turn black, and their growth stops, then the raspberry tree is affected by the raspberry fly.

To make sure that the pest is easily inside the shoot, you need to examine its cross section: the larvae form passages from top to bottom, along the entire stem. If you cut it lengthwise, you can see the larva itself: a small white worm, up to 5 mm long.

What harm does

As you know, ordinary raspberries bear fruit on the shoots of the second year, while remontant raspberries bear fruit on the fruit stems of the first year. Therefore, the yield of a berry garden depends entirely on the number of new branches that the bush produces in the spring.

Thus, by attacking young stems, the raspberry fly can greatly reduce the number of fruitful shoots.

The reason for the appearance of the pest

The cause of the appearance of the pest may be the following gaps in care or omissions during planting:

• The fly is a pest that also affects blackberries, meadowsweet, meadowsweet and some other crops. Therefore, planting raspberries close to blackberry thickets or next to neighboring raspberry fields is a bad idea;
• The fly overwinters in the surface layer of humus, which needs to be dug up to get rid of the pest. In a thickened raspberry field this is a rather difficult task, so it is most vulnerable to the pest;
• the raspberry fly can also be attracted by large numbers of aphids, which secrete honeydew;
• Bushes are vulnerable to gardeners who do not carry out preventive spraying against pests in the spring, when the buds are swelling. This is especially important during the years of mass fly reproduction (due to favorable weather conditions);
• a fly can get into an area with low-quality humus, which is used to mulch the soil under raspberry bushes.

The most attractive to flies are dense plantings, as well as plants weakened by frost or improper care. It is not difficult to fight insects, but you need to prevent massive damage to the planting.

Prevention

Pest control consists of several simple procedures. As a preventive measure, it is necessary to regularly and carefully loosen the soil in the area where raspberries are planted. Do this in such a way as not to damage the root system; first you need to remove and destroy the foliage that has fallen from the raspberry bush. By turning out a small layer of soil in the fall (to a depth of up to 6 cm), after leaf fall, you do not allow the pupated fly to overwinter.

Besides:

• During the growing season, especially at the beginning of the active growth of green shoots, carefully monitor the raspberry bushes. At the first sign of the appearance of a raspberry fly, you need to cut and burn the shoot, destroying the larva inside. It is not necessary to cut the branch at the root - the main thing is to cut off the affected and a small part of the healthy stem;
• Spraying the bushes with insecticides such as Actellik or Karbofos will help fight the disease; it must be done before the leaves bloom;
• since the fly overwinters shallowly (at a depth of up to 6 cm), you can fight it by increasing the thickness of the spring mulch layer from 8 to 10 cm. Believe me, not all flies will get out into the light through such a layer;
• This method cannot be called preventive, since in our country it is impossible to buy predatory ground beetles to combat the raspberry fly, but attracting them to the area with raspberries will greatly reduce the number of pests.

It is important to destroy the affected raspberry shoots in time, otherwise the fly will go into the ground (this happens before flowering) and will appear again and again.

Saving the harvest

If the damage to the raspberry tree is small, you can fight it by mechanically removing the shoots. It is important to remember here that the affected stem is removed to a healthy area, occasionally cutting at the root.

Why is it important? A raspberry shoot that is partially pruned will produce new fruit-bearing branches, and if you cut it at the base, this can cause the growth of basal shoots, which do not play a big role in the abundant fruiting of the raspberry bush.

If more than 50% of the young stems are destroyed, it is no longer possible to cope only by removing the affected branches; you need to fight the pest using strong insecticides or completely destroy the planting. Complete destruction makes sense when the raspberry tree is old (usually 10-12 years after planting).

In other cases, you need to try to save the berry garden; control in this case consists of a complex of treatment with insecticides and mechanical removal of the affected parts of the plants.

Ways to fight

Comprehensive care and timely treatment with various therapeutic and prophylactic agents are very effective measures in the fight against raspberry fly. Remember that spraying with any chemicals should be carried out in complete calm, in the morning or evening, as well as during the day in cloudy weather. This is necessary in order not to provoke the appearance of sunburn on fragile plants:

• For preventive spraying of raspberries, you can use a solution of any insecticide that effectively fights the adult and larval stages of insects. For example, by diluting a tablet of the drug “Iskra” in a bucket of water. This is done in early spring, at the stage of bud swelling;
• if the shoots are already more than half affected, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm, Confidor or Kemifos according to the instructions, at the interval specified for each specific drug. This option is the least preferable; you may not have to eat raspberry jam this year, but the raspberries will be saved;
• if there is a large volume of affected raspberry stems, it is recommended to complete pest control in the fall: treatment with one of the above anti-fly preparations is carried out in August, after harvesting.

Folk methods of combating raspberry fly involve using means to increase the resistance of plants and strengthen their natural immunity. And this makes sense: pests more often and in greater numbers infect sick, depleted plants.

We fight the raspberry fly using folk methods:

• treating the soil around raspberry bushes with Bordeaux mixture prevents the appearance of pests such as raspberry flies and sawflies. To do this, you need to dilute the prepared powder in an amount of 100 grams per bucket of water and in the fall, when preparing the bushes for wintering, pour it on the tree trunks;
• spraying raspberries with an infusion of tobacco dust or laundry soap against aphids, which secrete honeydew and attract adult insects. A solution of tobacco dust to combat it is prepared as follows: take a bucket of warm water for 300-400 grams of dust and infuse the solution for 24 hours. Soap solution for aphids on raspberries: rub a piece of laundry soap into a bucket of warm water, after dissolving, add a glass of wood ash and spray the plants.

To maintain raspberry immunity and for preventive purposes, regular feeding, mulching and thinning of plants is necessary.

What should care be like?

In order for plants to remain strong and able to resist pests, timely care must be taken. Raspberry bushes need regular feeding and thinning, must be well lit and prepared for wintering, and cannot tolerate drought or overwatering.

• Raspberry bushes need to be fed several times a year. In the spring, before flowering begins, up to 10 grams of urea per square meter of soil is added to the soil. In the fall, after harvesting, apply a glass of wood ash or up to 8 grams of potassium fertilizer per square meter under the bush. During the flowering period, you can apply a liter of mullein infusion under the bush: about a liter jar of fertilizer is infused in a bucket of water for a week;
• To ensure that the raspberry bushes are well lit, they are thinned out in the spring, removing all old, frozen, damaged or weak shoots. With strip cultivation, there are from 20 to 25 shoots per meter of bed, with bush cultivation - up to 12;
• Lack of moisture and excess can affect the immunity of raspberries. When grown on clayey, heavy soils, bushes are watered less often, on loose soils - more often;
• Autumn preparation of the bush for wintering involves removing fallen leaves and adding a layer of humus as mulch and a protective layer. This will allow the raspberries to overwinter without loss.

It is necessary to observe the order of applying fertilizers: if in the fall you mulch the bushes with humus, then in the spring you need to apply mineral fertilizers, alternating them.

For those owners of their own plots who like to grow various berry crops, one of the most annoying pests is the raspberry fly - fighting it always requires a certain amount of time. However, there are some measures that can be taken to prevent the appearance of this insect on your territory or to immediately stop all the harmful effects from it. You will learn from this article exactly what actions need to be performed and when.

Who is the raspberry fly?

The raspberry fly is one of the types of pests common in the vast woodlands and forest-steppe.

Appearance of a raspberry fly

External distinctive features characteristic of this species:

• an adult is an insect whose length can reach 7 mm. It has a gray body, black legs and a specific shaped head.
• larvae - pale white worms without legs up to 5 mm long;
• eggs are oval, white, up to 0.2 mm in size.

Important! The fertility of one individual is quite intense - in 1 season the female lays up to 90 eggs.

Features of life

One of the reasons why the fight against raspberry flies is difficult is that adult individuals gnaw shoots from top to bottom, reach the soil layer and lay eggs in it.

Important! This type of fly affects not only raspberry bushes directly. She also likes similar crops - blackberries, meadowsweet, meadowsweet. That is why, in order to prevent mass damage to your plantings on the site by this pest, you need to choose the right measures to combat the raspberry fly and decide how to get rid of it.

Over time, the eggs form larvae that overwinter in so-called false cocoons. Pupation occurs already in May, and the development of a voracious adult occurs quite quickly - within a period of up to 1.5 weeks.

This fly feeds not only directly on green stems, but also on nectar from flowers, as well as dew and sugar juice, which is obtained in the process of life by other pests.

Important! An option to combat the raspberry fly is to provoke attacks on it by predatory insects or ground beetles. Their help can be very useful, as it contributes to a significant reduction in the population.

How can you tell if a fly is infecting a bush?

Signs that your berry plantings have been visited by a raspberry fly and you have to fight it are quite obvious and visible to the naked eye. If you regularly conduct preventive vegetation inspections, you will be able to notice:

• change in the shade of the leaves - they become reddish, purple, yellow or bronze;
• shoots have specific grooves along the entire length or along the top;
• the stems begin to dry out, do not bear fruit or die completely.

Important! Please note that voracious individuals appear already from mid-May, so during this period you need to especially carefully monitor the condition of the bushes in order to get a decent harvest.

How to deal with raspberry fly?

Until recently, only one method of getting rid of the raspberry fly was welcomed - complete pruning of the bush at the root. But in this case, the volume of the harvest decreased significantly, and re-growth can not be expected for more than 1 year. But even these measures do not always save, since if the raspberry fly has already managed to reach the soil and laid its offspring there, the likelihood of the problem reoccurring is very high.

All these negative consequences of the fight have become the reason for gardeners’ constant search for new solutions on how to get rid of raspberry flies. And there is an alternative. There is a complex technology that is very widespread today, which includes not only direct measures to combat the raspberry fly, but also additional measures in the process of caring for berry plantings.

Measures to combat an existing pest

In order not to completely deprive yourself of the berry harvest and to deal with the problem as quickly as possible without completely removing the bush, proceed this way:

1. Find all damaged shoots based on their characteristic features.
2. Trim them to a length of about 50 cm or the entire damaged length, taking some of the healthy stem.
3. Burn all cut branches immediately.

Important! Do not delay this procedure so that the pest does not have time to completely gnaw through the channel inside the stem and get to fertile soil for laying eggs.

Preventing the appearance of raspberry flies on the site

Preventive measures are an extremely important stage in the fight against raspberry flies. The volume of the harvest and the integrity of your plantings depend on how quickly, timely and correctly you act in different months from spring to late autumn.

At the same time, preventative care is not complicated, so there is no need to prepare yourself for painstaking and tedious work in advance. You just need to do the following:

1. Periodically inspect the bushes and note the condition of the bushes.
2. Carry out preventive spraying with special insecticidal preparations during shoot regrowth. Suitable for this purpose: Actellik, Karbofos, Ambush, Etafos.
3. During the period of swelling of the buds, treat the raspberries with Iskra. A sufficient volume of solution is 2 liters per 10 bushes, and to prepare 10 liters of solution you only need 1 tablet. By the way, this product will effectively repel other pests from your berries.
4. At the beginning of May, loosen the soil well and add 1 tbsp. l. nitroammophoska for each bush.
5. In the fall, after harvesting, dig up and loosen the soil well, collect all fallen leaves and treat the bushes with Karbofos. Hill up the bushes and mulch them with peat or compost to prepare the bushes for the winter cold.

Sadly, there is at least one pest for every garden inhabitant. For example, the harvest of sweet, aromatic, highly beneficial raspberries is threatened by the raspberry stem fly. The object of its attacks are young shoots, which means that the fruitfulness of the bushes is at risk in principle. Unfortunately, this fly is not the only enemy of the raspberry tree, but in this article we will talk about it.

It is important to recognize in time

If your raspberries have “drooped ears”, that is, the tops lose their healthy appearance, look around, most likely the cause is a fly on the raspberries. The general portrait of this insect can be described as follows:

• an adult individual is a small insect not exceeding 5 mm in length;
• color gray;
• overwinters as a pupa;
• It causes the greatest damage to plants at the larval stage.

Maliciousness

The insect's flight occurs at the same time when young shoots are growing on the raspberries - this is the second ten days of May. Further phases of development continue as follows:

• the female lays eggs in the axils of the apical leaves - 1 egg under one leaf;
• very soon caterpillar larvae appear, which, in order to get to the base of the shoot, having penetrated the stem, gnaw through a spiral passage;
• When the raspberry blooms, the insect larva leaves the stem, pupates and burrows into the top layer of soil under the bush.

Damaged stems, starting from the top, wither, turn black, rot and die.

Control measures

Preventive

• So, the most important information for a gardener is the time of flight of the fly. To prevent this process, you need to carry out preventive spraying with chemicals or home-made products. At the same time, we emphasize: the use of chemicals is indicated when 50% of the plants in the raspberry field are affected.
• A very effective measure is digging up the soil under the bushes in the fall. Wintering areas will be destroyed and significant damage will be caused to the population.
• After the raspberries shed their leaves, they need to be collected, removed from the garden and burned.
• The effectiveness of soil mulching has also been proven - the height of the peat or compost layer is 8 cm and hilling with ordinary soil at least 3 cm.
• A careful inspection will allow you to promptly detect damaged shoots. It is necessary to cut off the top; if the passage gnawed by the larva is visually determined, then the stem is cut off completely. That is why raspberries require mandatory pruning in the fall.
• It is important to adhere to the agricultural practices of the crop - there is no need to allow plantings to thicken, weeds should not be allowed to grow, timely fertilizing will give health and resistance to pests.

Aggressive control of raspberry stem fly

"Spark"

Insecticide against a wide range of pests, including effective against raspberry stem fly. It is supplied to the consumer in the form of a tablet weighing 1 g. To achieve the expected effect, spraying must be done with a solution freshly prepared according to the recipe indicated on the package. It should not be hot outside - it is better to carry out the activity in the evening or in cloudy, but not rainy weather. One tablet is enough to prepare 10 liters of liquid preparation that kills raspberry flies.

"Karbofos"

Moderately toxic pesticide against sap-sucking and leaf-eating pests. It is dangerous for bees, so the drug should not be used during the flowering period. The working fluid must be prepared immediately before spraying. The air temperature should not be lower than +15 C; this should be done in the evening. Mixing with other drugs is prohibited. Frequency of processing – 2 times. It is not recommended to use the product before rain.

Inspect the raspberry tree more often - you will definitely notice the pest

"Aktellik"

Non-systemic organophosphorus, affecting the gastrointestinal tract of the pest. It is supplied to the retail network in concentrated form - 2-gram ampoules with emulsion or 5-liter canisters. Recipe for preparing the working mixture: the contents of the ampoule are diluted in 2 liters of water. Raspberries are processed with this composition. If the infection is serious, then the composition can be made more concentrated - 1 ampoule per 1 liter of water. Dangerous for bees - do not use during flowering.

"Confidor"

A low-toxic, highly effective insecticide characterized by systemic and contact action. The drug seeps through all parts of the plant - foliage, stem, root. It washes off very poorly and even in hot weather provides a high degree of protection for a period of 5 to 15 days. It is dangerous for bees, so spraying should be done in the evening or morning hours, when beneficial insects do not fly.

Biological products

"Agravertine"

Extract from the soil fungus streptomyces, infused with alcohol. Agent of contact-intestinal action. It can be stored in this form for 2 years, but the aqueous solution used for spraying garden and vegetable plants should be used immediately for its intended purpose. It is not addictive to pests; in hot weather the protective function only increases, but at temperatures below +18 C the effectiveness weakens.

"Fitoverm"

Biological insecticide and acaricide with a broad spectrum of action. Used when identifying pests on raspberries. It does not act instantly - the destructive effect can be observed after 5-8 days. The last treatment is allowed no later than 2 days before harvesting. Not dangerous for bees. It is better to use in the evening.

Traditional methods of struggle: Bordeaux mixture

The specificity of the pest is such that homemade spray compositions that are effective against other insects do not affect the raspberry fly. However, gardeners are constantly looking for their own ways to get rid of this insidious enemy. For example, Oksana Koklyushkina, in a commentary to an article about fighting sawfly on gooseberries, shares her method of how to fight raspberry stem fly. She claims that it is enough to shed the soil in the fall and there will be no problems with pests on raspberry bushes, and there will be no problems with gooseberry bushes either.

From our point of view, there is a positive meaning in using this substance, however, simply pouring a liquid solution on the soil is clearly not enough, in our opinion. Most likely, the reader uses some kind of insecticidal preparation for spraying, and additionally treats the soil with the above-mentioned agent.

As a reference. Bordeaux mixture is a mixture of copper sulfate (better known as) with milk of lime. This drug has been used in gardening for a very long time, but primarily in the fight against diseases of trees, shrubs, grapes, and roses. Its effectiveness has been proven in eliminating fruit rot, rust, scab, stem cancer, gray rot, septorhiza, cocomycosis, etc. Bordeaux mixture can also be used against pests, only before flowering at the stage of bud break.

If you have anything to add to the recommendations on how to get rid of raspberry stem fly, write in the comments to the article. We will be happy to have a lively dialogue and exchange of views. If you have any critical comments, please leave them as well. Any opinion of readers is important to us, since the idea of ​​​​creating a blog is to collect useful information about a particular pest and how to combat it.