The need to install stove heating is most often associated with the lack of other alternatives - you cannot reach the gas mains, and it is unprofitable to heat the house with electricity. On the other hand, the undying popularity of wood-burning stoves is associated with that amazing feeling of real home warmth and comfort that only a crackling fireplace can give. As you know, you can admire fire endlessly, so why not provide your home with inexpensive heat at the same time? But for this you will have to build a heating device that could provide a visual image, have good heat transfer and fit organically into the interior. Swedish ovens fully meet these requirements, which, among other things, also allow you to cook or heat food. Let’s not hide the fact that the Swede (that’s what this wonderful structure has long been called in Rus') presents certain difficulties in manufacturing. However, using our recommendations, drawings and ordering diagrams, even a novice master can build a practical and extremely warm Swedish stove with his own hands.

To the origins of the popularity of Swedish cooking stoves

The classic Swedish stove is both beautiful and functional

According to existing legend, the first Swedish stove was built in Russia by soldiers who were captured during one of the battles of the Northern War, which was started by the Swedish king Charles XII back in 1700. However, this is nothing more than a myth, since there is documentary evidence that the heating device, known in our country as the “Swedish”, was developed in a distant northern country in 1767. The order of the Academy of Sciences was issued by King Adolf Frederick of Holstein-Gottorp. Perhaps this is what contributed to the preservation of historical materials about the development of a new wood-burning stove. The reasons that prompted the King of Sweden to personally deal with such mundane issues were quite prosaic. The fact is that the dense forests that the Swedes were so proud of in the Middle Ages had already been thoroughly cut down by this time - the wood was actively used in military and housing construction, and the Swedes simply did not know any other fuel at that time. The homes of ordinary people were most often heated by hastily built brick fireplaces that required constant heating. By the way, the stoves of the nobility were also not particularly economical - at best, they used voluminous “Dutch stoves”, which at that time were very gluttonous.

Using the proverb that has survived to this day that “everything new is a well-forgotten old,” Swedish scientists did not hesitate for a long time with the design. The basis was a well-studied Dutch oven, which was carefully remodeled during the work.

The changes primarily affected functionality - the “Swede” was equipped with a pita for cooking, an oven and practical niches, one of which was intended for drying clothes, and the other was used to ensure that cooked food remained warm all day. This arrangement was extremely convenient for small houses, since the stove, installed in the wall between the kitchen and the room, provided all the heating needs of an ordinary family.

The high functionality of the Swede can be complemented by a comfortable and warm bed

Initially, several modifications of Swedish stoves were developed, which, with minor changes, have survived to this day:

• heating and cooking unit with only one stove;
• Swedish with stove and oven;
• a wood-burning heating device equipped with a stove, an oven (one or two) and a water heating tank;
• double-sided fireplace stove - the cooking part of the stove is located in the kitchen, and the decorative part goes into the hall or living room;
• Swede with a couch.

In addition, depending on personal wishes, the stove, as before, may have one or two niches located above the stove.

Swedish stove with fireplace

The main design parameters were calculated by Swedish scientists so accurately that they have remained virtually unchanged for several centuries. We can say with complete confidence that it is the correct calculation and well-thought-out design of the Swede that are the root cause of all its advantages:

• compact dimensions;
• functional and practical design;
• high efficiency and heat transfer;
• fast heating thanks to simple and effective solutions in the heat exchange part of the unit;
• versatility;
• undemanding to fuel - you can burn any type of solid fuel, from wood shavings and reeds to coal;
• variability of the heating device - its functionality and design can be changed according to your preferences and needs;
• ease of operation and maintenance;
• efficiency;
• possibility of building with your own hands.

The disadvantages of the “Swedish” are the same as those of other channel stoves. First of all, this is rapid cooling when the valve is not closed, as well as the need to periodically clean the channels of the unit from soot. In addition, a wood-burning heat generator places increased demands on construction technology - only new, high-quality brick is suitable for making a “Swede”, and the work process will require increased concentration, accuracy and maximum efficiency.

The device and secrets of high efficiency

The Swedish stove begins to radiate heat as soon as the first stable flames appear. The secret of such possibilities comes from the decision of Scandinavian scientists to install an oven (in the diagram above it is indicated by number 1) immediately behind the firebox. The heat from the burning volatile gases, which stove makers call the first heat, heats the metal red hot, and the side outlet allows you to successfully arrange the interior of the stove. Due to the barrier installed in the path of hot gases, it was possible to reduce their initial speed - with high flame intensity, heat does not fly into the pipe, as happens in most channel furnaces. In addition, as can be seen in the diagram, in this case the furnace roof serves as a kind of cap, under which the pyrolysis residues are burned well. The advantage of this arrangement of the oven is that the combustion products flowing around its surface go down, so the walls of the heating unit begin to warm up literally from the floor, and one of the components of successful heat transfer is a large surface area, isn’t it?

Swedish oven design

The hob (2) and the recess located above it also contribute to the high heat output. Thanks to heating with the first heat, the heat dissipates from them no worse than from an oven. After the first heat begins to spread throughout the house, the niche can be covered with a wooden damper. Even after the firewood has completely burned out, the heat in the opening will be retained for 6-8 hours, which is convenient to use to keep cooked food warm.

The niche (3), located on the upper tier, is more spacious and does not heat up as much, so if necessary, you can dry wet clothes in it. As in the lower recess, its rear part is made of thin walls. Due to this, the back side is effectively heated in all operating modes of the furnace, from intense combustion to the smoldering of hot coals.

The Swede does not have Hailo in the traditional understanding of this part of the stove. Scientists decided to abolish the vaulted element due to the complexity and rise in cost of the design, installing instead a simple window for the flow of gases from the space under the oven.

Scheme of gas movement in the furnace channels

Hailo in wood stoves is a vaulted smoke collector between the firebox and heat exchange channels or chimney, designed to redirect the gas flow and improve draft. Precisely calculated and equipped according to all the rules, the chimney will not let smoke into the room even in stoves with open fuel chambers, including barbecue units or simple fireplaces.

The enterprising Swedes completely borrowed the heat collector from the Dutch, equipping it according to a proven scheme with vertical channels. Of course, in this case the upper part of the oven heats up more, but the built-in oven does a good job of equalizing the temperature gradient along the height of the heating device. Thanks to the classic layout of the heat exchanger, less soot is formed in the channels. At the same time, it is much more convenient to clean the unit, and this is important, since the stove was originally designed for any type of fuel.

In fact, furnaces were initially developed with two types of heat exchangers - vertical and horizontal. The second type of unit was installed in their homes by wealthy Swedes, who always had one of their servants on hand to clean the ducts. Nowadays, such a heating device is extremely rare.

A Swedish stove was most often installed in the wall between rooms, so there was an additional opportunity to turn its channels into a stove bench. This opportunity was mostly used by ordinary Swedes, but the nobility preferred to install a more presentable structure in this place - a fireplace.

The design of the Swedish heat exchange channels was borrowed from the Dutch ovens that were popular at that time

Thanks to innovations in the fuel and heat exchange parts, the Swedish stove was a model of excellence at that time. Of course, compared to the Dutch one, it cost the owner more, and was more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the high power and unique heat dissipation of the Swede ensured its popularity for the next two hundred years.

Basic parameters, drawings, diagrams and orders

• plate - 710x410 mm;
• combustion chamber: height 280-330 mm, width 300-350 mm, depth 400-500 mm;
• oven: height 280-300 mm, width 330-380 mm, depth 400-500 mm;
• the distance from the front surface of the oven to the edge of the grate is 190-250 mm (from ¾ to 1 brick).

Since the oven is located in a high-temperature zone, increased requirements are placed on the thickness of its walls. Thin metal is not suitable here, as it will burn out within several seasons. It is also not recommended to use too thick material - a massive structure will warm up much worse, which is fraught not so much with a decrease in heat transfer, but with underburning. As a result, the furnace is characterized by increased soot formation and reduced efficiency. The best material for the oven is structural steel with a thickness of 3-4 mm.

When designing a Swede, there is no need to strictly adhere to the dimensions indicated above. If you need to increase the thermal power of the unit, this will not be achieved by simply burning it out - you will need to proportionally increase the size of all parts of the heating device.

To build a Swedish stove with an oven and a hob, it is best to use the procedures and diagrams that we provide below.

Drawing of the internal channels of the furnace

Swedish oven dimensions

Swede sizes

Orders of a classic Swedish oven

The order of the furnace in the language of specialists means a drawing that indicates the exact order of laying bricks in each row, and also presents the features of the arrangement of floors and determines the installation locations of all structural elements - grates, doors, dampers, stoves and ovens.

In the case where the rear side of the heating unit is planned to be equipped with a fireplace, it is ducted into a common gas channel with the Swede or a separate chimney is installed. In the first case, it will not be possible to heat both devices at the same time, since the flow area of ​​the flue will not allow it. The furnace will have to be equipped with an additional damper, which will cut off the idle unit. The second method will require additional labor and materials, but will provide a unique opportunity to operate two heating devices in one thermodynamic space.

What is needed to build a heating device

The oven, which is offered for production, has a width of 1020 mm, a height of 2170 mm and a depth of 880 mm. The choice of these parameters is determined by the size of standard bricks - when laying the unit, you will not have to look for a half or three-quarter piece again, which significantly reduces construction time. It is recommended to use the principle of multiplying the dimensions of the furnace to the dimensions of the red brick when changing its proportions to suit your own needs.

During the laying process you will need both simple red and fire-resistant fireclay bricks

By the way, in Scandinavian countries entire kits are produced for the construction of stoves of any size. This “constructor” includes everything you need, including the mixture for preparing the solution. We will be able to save a little, since from the list of necessary materials given below, a thrifty and thrifty owner will always have something on hand. So, here is a list of what you will need:

• 500-700 pcs. high-quality red brick of grade M-150 and higher, which must undergo good firing and not have foreign inclusions greater than those required by GOST;
• refractory fireclay brick brand ША-8 (its dimensions correspond to red brick, which will facilitate installation);
• combustion and blower doors - 1 pc.;
• cleaning doors - 4 pcs.;
• pre-furnace sheet with a thickness of 0.5 to 2 mm;
• oven;
• grate;
• cast iron two-burner stove;
• metal corner with a shelf of at least 40 mm;
• exhaust valve;
• sheet steel;
• cement;
• sand;
• construction mesh for reinforcement;
• tamping;
• boards for formwork;
• rule at least 1 m long;
• fire-resistant masonry mixture (in extreme cases, it can be replaced with a mixture of clay and sand);
• asbestos or basalt sealant.

Furnace casting has a decisive influence on the appearance of the furnace, so why not use the original developments of foundry designers when choosing it?

Tools that will be needed to prepare the solution and actually construct the Swedish stove:

• construction hammer-pick;
• trowel;
• wooden or rubber mallet;
• jointing;
• construction level;
• square;
• cord and plumb line;
• roulette;
• shovel;
• containers for solution.

You can’t do without a convenient trowel during the construction process.

A classic Swedish stove, unlike a Dutch stove, is not covered with tiles or tiles. However, nothing prevents you from decorating the stove at your own discretion if the brickwork does not fit into the interior design.

Preparatory work

Before you start laying a Swedish stove yourself, you need to build a reliable foundation and prepare a working solution. When choosing a place for a heating device, two basic rules are followed. First, the unit is installed in a wall between two rooms, preferably in a corner. Secondly, the stove chimney should be as close to the center of the building as possible. In this case, the pipe for the exit of combustion products will be located in the most advantageous place - near the ridge, which will provide good traction and ensure that the structure complies with fire safety standards.

Installation diagram of the external part of the chimney

It is best if the foundation of the future furnace is laid simultaneously with the foundation of the house. In this case, both bases should be separated by a sand cushion - it will prevent dangerous movements of the heating device if the support under the walls of the house shrinks.

Having chosen a place to install the Swedish heat generator, outline the outline of the foundation. We remind you that it must protrude beyond the outer perimeter of the stove by at least 10-15 cm. If a plank floor interferes with the construction of the base, then a cutout is made in it corresponding to the cross-section of the heating device. After this, they dig a pit, the depth of which corresponds to the freezing point of the soil.

The bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with a layer of sand 100 to 200 mm thick. The sand cushion is spilled with water and covered with crushed stone to a height of 150-170 mm. The drainage layer is well compacted, after which formwork is installed along the edges of the pit. Usually it is knocked down from anything. We recommend taking even low-grade, but even edged boards. Remember that carefully knocked down and aligned with the side of the formwork will allow you to build a perfectly level foundation with minimal time and effort.

The inside of the structure is lined with polyethylene or roofing felt, after which a reinforcing mesh is installed at a height of 5-10 cm from the bottom. Then thick concrete is mixed, which contains 1 part M-400 cement, 3 parts sand and 6 parts crushed stone. The solution is poured into the prepared fence, after which the surface of the slab is compacted and leveled. The initially leveled edges made from edged boards greatly simplify this work. All that needs to be done to get a perfectly level foundation is to run a rule over them that can cover both sides of the formwork structure.

Construction of the foundation of a Swedish oven

The poured concrete is left for several days, and after it has completely set, the wooden board is removed and the foundation is covered with roofing felt or other waterproofing material.

The preparation of mortar begins with kneading and soaking the clay. After this, sand is added to it and the mixture is thoroughly mixed. The amount of one or another component is determined depending on the fat content of the clay - the higher this indicator, the more sand is required. There is no need to immediately prepare a large amount of solution, since when it settles it will separate into its component parts - you will have to do all the work again. As for factory-made refractory compounds, among other things, they also have an expiration date when mixed, which is recommended to be strictly observed. Experienced stove makers use up to 20 liters of masonry mixture for every hundred bricks. It is this figure that we recommend focusing on when preparing for work.

Step-by-step instructions: how to build a stove with your own hands

Before laying the first brick, you should understand the basic rule of high-quality masonry - control and more control. Not only the first row, but also all niches, corners and internal chambers and channels should be ideally laid out. To do this, the stove maker should always have a building level, square and cord on hand. Beginners are recommended to pull vertical plumbs in all corners and install a horizontal mooring cord for each row. This will ensure the correct geometry of the heating device even despite small flaws in the thickness of the seams.

To prevent moisture from the clay mortar from being absorbed by the pores of the brick during laying, it must be soaked. To do this, the required amount of building material is placed in a vat of cold water and left for one day.

In order not to get confused with the numerous stages of masonry, it is recommended to print out the ordering diagram and carry out the work itself according to a strictly planned plan.

1 row. The laying of the first row is carried out especially carefully, controlling all parameters using a level and square. It is laid out completely on a waterproofed foundation, after which it is completely filled with working solution.
It is allowed to use brick halves inside the masonry, provided they are securely tied to the next row. It is recommended to make the outer walls only with whole bricks - this will ensure a beautiful appearance of the stove after jointing.

Laying the first rows forms the base of the furnace, so it is done continuously

2nd row laid out similarly to the first - in a continuous array according to the ordering scheme. The first two rows are given special attention, as they must form a reliable and stable base for the oven.

3rd and 4th row forms an ash pan. A blower and three cleaning doors are also installed here. To ensure that the place where they meet the wall does not crack during operation of the stove (and this will certainly happen due to different thermal expansion of metal and ceramics), the cracks around the door frames are sealed using asbestos or basalt sealant.

When installing the door, you will need to trim the face of the brick.

Beginning with 5 rows, install the oven and build in the grate. After this, a ceiling is installed above the cleanouts and the blower door. The top brick is laid on a metal corner, which is cut into the bricks of the bottom row.

One of the options for installing a grate

WITH 6 to 10th row lay out the combustion chamber. A partition is installed between the firebox and the oven, using fireclay bricks mounted on an edge. When covering the firebox, an opening should form above the bulkhead, so its height relative to the upper plane is reduced by 1 brick. After laying the tenth row, a cast-iron stove with burners is installed above the firebox opening. Its compaction is carried out using the same asbestos or basalt cardboard. For additional strength, the brick edge is protected on the front side with a metal corner. To securely fasten it, drillings are made on both sides into which steel wire is threaded. Laid in the interbrick seam, it will prevent the corner from moving and provide it with additional strength. The same corner is installed to protect the upper edge of the opening, supported by the side bricks of the 16th row.

Along the course of the masonry, the joints are opened. It is important not to allow the solution to dry out completely.

Laying down 11 row, block the channel separating the firebox and the flue on the right side of the stove.

WITH 12 to 16th row lay out the cooking opening and vertical channels. The openings of the flue ducts in this place must be made with fire-resistant bricks.

Scheme of orders forming vertical channels

17-18th row needed to form the ceiling of a niche that is located above the slab. The bricks of the top row are supported by a strip of steel sheet laid on top of the metal corners.

Beginning 19th and 20th row, two hatches are mounted on the front wall for cleaning the gas ducts.

Procedure for increasing the furnace array

WITH 21 to 28th row increase the vertical channels of the heating device. When laying out the 27th row, a furnace valve is installed, above which a technological opening is left.

29th and 30th row slightly widen around the perimeter (a 50 mm protrusion is sufficient), obtaining a stove cornice. These two rows cover the chimney channels, leaving only one opening for combustion products to exit into the chimney.

Procedure for covering the furnace

IN 31st row The cross-section of the furnace is reduced - it must correspond to the parameters of row 27.

Beginning with 32 rows, lay out the chimney. The cross-section of its channel is taken to be 130x250 mm - standard dimensions allow laying with whole bricks.

Chimney orders

The chimney must be driven to the required height and equipped with a cap, after which the construction of the stove can be considered complete.

Putting the Swede into operation

It is best to build the stove in summer or early autumn, so that natural heat can dry the masonry. During the cold season, various devices will help remove moisture from the walls and channels - air heaters, heat guns, etc.

Drying the oven at an air temperature of at least 20° C is carried out within 10-12 days. At the same time, all doors and latches open. If the moisture is removed forcibly, then a fan heater is placed in the firebox, and all stove openings are closed, leaving an air passage to the chimney.

Swedish oven at work

1. For two weeks, the swede is heated with minimal fillings, which are formed from small, thin logs. In this case, it is advisable not to allow the oven to cool completely. The quality of the primary firing is checked using crumpled newspapers, which are placed in cleaning channels. The low intensity of the flame will prevent the paper from catching fire, but whether it is wet or dry after burning will serve as an excellent indicator of the quality of drying.
2. Hot firing is also carried out gradually, heating the oven several times a day, morning and evening. The power is increased gradually, each time slightly increasing the amount of fuel.

Following the rules of drying and firing will strengthen and harden the masonry joints, which will guarantee reliable and long-term operation of the Swedish stove.

The frequency of cleaning the heating ducts depends on the quality of the fuel and can be done 1-2 times a year. The best firewood is, of course, considered large birch logs - they will give both a flame and long-lasting heat. Experienced stove makers recommend heating the stove with dry aspen once every two weeks - it helps remove soot naturally. But it is unsafe to burn the stove with various flammable substances - this can lead to a fire. Unfortunately, even in our high-tech times, there is still no better way than removing soot manually using scrapers and brushes.

Video: ordering the Swedish stove

As you probably already understood, a Swedish stove cannot be built from just anything - first of all, you will need high-quality materials. In addition, experienced stove makers recommend starting construction only in a good mood - then things get going, the work progresses faster, and, as they say, the soul sings. We advise you to approach the process with all the scrupulousness and patience that you are capable of. Believe me, the Swede will thank you for this with such comfort and cozy warmth that only a simple wood-burning stove, born in a hospitable, fairy-tale country, is capable of.

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The Swedish stove is a very effective and practical it is quite possible to build it with your own hands for a home craftsman who has not previously worked on stoves. If we take into account that bitter frost does not always happen in winter, then in terms of efficiency on average for the heating season, a Swedish stove is slightly inferior, but is more compact and heats up quickly.

By its design, a Swedish stove with a stove is designed to be placed in the wall between the kitchen and the common living room, as in traditional Scandinavian homes, or between the kitchen and living room, in more modern and richer houses. The kitchen warms up well and quickly for the cooking period, but the heat reserve accumulated in the oven is mostly gradually transferred to the adjacent room. There, depending on the taste and wealth of the owners, you can attach a stove bench or a fireplace to the stove.

A modern Swedish stove can also be “weighty, rough, visible,” as in the first pose on the left. drawing, and a decorative crumb squeezed into a corner (next pos.), and decorated with antique tiles (third from the left pos.), and ultra-modern made of titanium alloys and soapstone, fitting into a modern, high-tech or fusion interior, as in the last pos. These are very expensive, they are delivered ready-made, they are simply put in place, like a cabinet.

How did such a wonderful oven come about? Probably for centuries. Not at all.

A little history

According to a popular legend, the Swedish stove was brought to Russia by captured Swedes under Peter the Great, but this is nothing more than a myth. The highly efficient heating and cooking stove, now known as the “Swedish”, was developed in 1767, when Sweden, in the words of a Swedish historian, “finally left the stage of world history and modestly took its place in the auditorium.”

Note on the story: in 1788 Gustav III, imagining himself the second Charles XII, went and started a war with Russia, which was received rather with surprise at Catherine’s court. In 1790, Russian troops, also shrugging their shoulders and looking at each other in bewilderment, took Stockholm without much difficulty and great losses, crossing the Baltic on ice, after which the troublemaker monarch, willy-nilly, had to calm down.

The development task was issued to the Swedish Academy of Sciences by King Adolf Frederik Holstein-Gottorp. The reasons are the most prosaic: a shortage of fuel (centuries-old dense forests had long since been cleared) and a harsh climate in which those that had become widespread by that time could not cope with heating. And there is a shortage of space for development; There has always been little land suitable for economic use in Scandinavia. The work was supervised by academicians F. Woerd and K. I. Konstedt.

It must be said that the Swedish scientists showed themselves in full brilliance, since mathematics by that time was quite highly developed. Handsome people in wigs, caftans, garus stockings and shoes with buckles with a quill pen wrote out formulas that, figuratively speaking, make the chips of today’s supercomputers burst from the effort. The Swedish stove was a great success.

The Swedish scientists, to put it simply, didn’t bother with the idea: they stretched the firebox part of the well-proven Dutch oven to the sides, and stuck it in the oven of a simple kitchen stove. But for a bare idea to work, you need an accurate calculation of dimensions, proportions, strength, thermal parameters, choice of materials and much more. The Swedish team completed the task with an A+. Let's see what they did.

What do you need from a Swede?

The original Swedish stove (see figure) is of a combined design. The starting point of the specifications for the furnace were specific local conditions.

Firstly, in Sweden truly Siberian frosts are combined with high air humidity: the Baltic and Atlantic with the Gulf Stream at hand. Secondly, the already mentioned shortage of fuel and space. Thirdly, in Sweden, on whose territory there was a glacier almost until historical times, there was plenty of fireclay (heat-resistant) clay of the highest quality.

Note: Fireclay clay is not fireclay, but only a raw material for its production. Also, fireclay bricks do not consist entirely of fireclay. In common parlance, fireclay clay, bricks and masonry made from them are called fireclay for brevity. Swedish fireclay clays are fine aluminosilicate deposits left by a retreating glacier. There are also corundum and zircon chamotte, which are especially durable, heat-resistant and very expensive.

And most importantly - the lifestyle of ordinary descendants of the Vikings. Boulders, swamps, little arable land, harsh climate: it is simply impossible to survive until spring without help. In winter, the Swedes could not afford to lie down on the stove, but the fishing grounds were intercepted by Norway and Denmark; The Baltic is not very abundant in this regard, and freezes in winter. Therefore, they engaged in hunting, logging, and gold mining - Fennoscandia is rich in valuable minerals. Opals are still found in the tundra of Finnish Lapland.

As a result, the owner and his adult sons trudged home after work looking more like fresh hummocks than warm-blooded animals. In order not to get sick, it was necessary to immediately warm up and dry the soaking wet clothes by tomorrow. But it was impossible to light the stove ahead of time: there wouldn’t be enough fuel until spring. This is what the Swedish academics proceeded from.

How does a Swede work?

Oven-time

The diagram of a classic Swedish stove is shown in the figure. Its first highlight is the large oven (1), intended not only and not so much for baking. And it’s not for nothing that the oven is located on the side of the firebox.

Scientists decided to use the first heat - heat from the combustion of volatile components of wood or coal. In channel furnaces, it simply flies out into the chimney without having time to heat the massive brick that conducts heat poorly. In a Russian stove, the first heat burns out beautifully under the arch, but a Russian stove will not fit into the original farm hus (house), and it needs to be heated for a long time until the heat emanates from it.

In a Swedish stove, the combustion part is a kind of degenerate hood, which has only one function left: chemical afterburning of the fuel. And a metal oven, which the flame does not touch, instantly becomes hot from the first heat. If you open its door, then 2-3 minutes after kindling, even with wood chips or straw, a warm wave will wash over those who enter. From head to toe, because... the flue gases from the firebox go down, and the Swede heats from the floor. Now you don’t have to worry about your lungs, and the warming from the inside will also be beneficial. Which, as you know, the Scandinavians do not make mistakes.

Upper niche

The upper niche of the Swede (3) is spacious and is heated by both the first heat and the second (see below), and by smoldering coals. It holds two sets of winter clothes; To prevent them from falling out, they pulled a rope across. By morning the clothes will be completely dry.

Niche above the stove

In old Swedish stoves, the niche above the stove (2) was covered with a wooden lid after heating and closing the view. We got up for work before light, and found what we had prepared for breakfast in the evening still warm; Before the hot breakfast was quickly heated in the oven with the first heat of the morning fire.

Smoke circulation

The Swedes did not make a connection between the firebox and the smoke circulation: this is a rather complex unit, it makes the stove more expensive. We limited ourselves to a simple overflow window (overflow) below the oven. If you forget to close the firebox after heating, the stove will immediately get cold, but the Swedes are thorough, neat, tight-fisted people - they will not forget and will not lose sight of you.

The heat accumulator itself, without further ado, was arranged according to a proven channel scheme. It was warmed up by the second heat (from the combustion of a mass of fuel) and the residual heat of smoldering coals. The classic scheme is with vertical channels. The stove heats a little worse at the bottom, but less soot accumulates, which is important when burning different types of fuel. In richer houses, whose inhabitants were not so busy, were less tired and spent a lot of time on their feet, smoke circulation was done with horizontal channels: it heats better below, but you will have to clean it more often.

The duct smoke circulation is designed without any subtle principles, so it can withstand almost any tricks of the designers. Therefore, the order of the Swedish stove can change depending on the specific requirements of the customer without noticeable deterioration in the quality of the stove. Some designs will be discussed below.

Oven or two

In the morning, a hot wave from the first heat again washed over those who got up from sleep, and while they were having breakfast, the kitchen warmed up almost like a sauna. Soaked in warmth to the marrow of the bones, in dry clothes, it was possible to climb into the swamp in the cold - that would be enough until the evening.

Add-ons

The back of the stove opened into the living space. There, as said, there could be a fireplace or a couch. Stoves with a fireplace and a lounger will be considered, but something needs to be said about the Swedish lounger in advance.

The length of the Swedish lounger (it does not stretch on the floor) due to lack of space did not exceed 6 feet, and the width - 2.25 feet; OK. 180x66 cm. Therefore, they did not lay it on the sunbed. A Swedish bed was placed above it (see figure). When heated from below, I slept comfortably, and there was room for drawers, in which the laundry never got damp.

Prelude to what follows

The design of the Swedish stove is an example of perfection. Possessing efficiency almost like the Russian one, it is not much more complicated and more expensive than the Dutch one. It also has an acquired useful quality: increased thermal power and heat transfer. From the amount of materials required for a Dutch stove with 2500 kcal/hour, you can make a Swede that produces 3500, and only two fireboxes are required per day. And you can cook, as in Russian, but without bending over or using a grip.

But perfection doesn't come for free. The Swede is demanding on the quality of materials; it is impossible to lay it out of an old plinth on gully clay, like Russian. Whatever accessories you need won’t work either. You need to work carefully, strictly following certain rules.

How to build it?

Dimensions and proportions

Swedish academics racked their brains a lot over calculations and checking the correct dimensions and proportions of the fuel part. The quality of the stove is mainly determined by them. The results are as follows:

• The slab is 28x16 inches, which almost exactly matches our 710x410 mm.
• Firebox – 11-13 inches high, 12-14 inches wide, 16-20 inches deep, i.e. (281-330)x(305-356)x(406-506) mm.
• Oven – 11-12 inches high, 13-15 inches wide, 18-20 inches deep; (281-305)x(330-381)x(456-506) mm.
• The thickness of the iron oven walls is 1/6-1/4 inches, approx. 4-6 mm.
• The distance from the edge of the grate to the nearest oven wall is 3/4 foot to 1 foot; in 3/4 of a brick or in a brick.

The thickness of the oven walls is important. An oven made of thin roofing iron will quickly burn out, and one that is too massive will remove heat too quickly and warm up slowly, which will lead to underburning, soot deposition and deterioration in efficiency. The same applies to the stove, so it must be made of a metal that does not conduct heat well - cast iron (cast) or special steel. The dishes are heated by the burners.

It is necessary to maintain not only the sizes, but also the proportions. If, say, the dimensions of the firebox are taken to a minimum, then its depth should be minimal. If the firebox is too deep, there will be underburning with all that entails, and if it’s too short, it will worsen the efficiency.

The oven is washed with hot gases not only from the sides, but also from the back. Therefore, from its rear wall to the wall of the firebox there should be a gap of at least a quarter of a brick. The depth of the oven can be reduced at the same mouth, but without going beyond the above limits. But you can move the oven close to the firebox if you insulate the wall closest to the firebox from the fire with vermiculite or (worse) asbestos.

Firebox door

The fire door is the weak point of the Swede. Due to high thermal loads, a cheap door stamped from a sheet will soon become loose and may even fall out. Therefore, you need to take a cast door, with a mustache embedded in the masonry.

You can make the mustache yourself by welding a pair of horizontally located pieces of annealed steel wire 3-4 mm in diameter and 50-70 mm long to the corners of the door frame. The wire mustache is spread to the sides in the form of the letter V by 40-50 mm, and also walled up. But in order for a stamped door with such an addition to last for a long time, it needs to be reinforced on top with a steel strip or corner, see next.

Masonry subtleties

Folding the Swedish stove is also not so easy. From the diagram it can be seen that the Swede heats the floor with all its might, so thermal insulation from the foundation is absolutely necessary. Now there is an excellent and not very expensive material for this - basalt cardboard. Insulate in three layers with 5 mm sheets. The middle layer is made of foil sheet. 15 mm basalt microfiber with two reflective IR screens will reduce the heating directly down to nothing.

Next, the foot of the stove. It (1st and 2nd rows for all stoves) is laid out with seams widened to 6-13 mm to obtain a pedestal protrusion. But you cannot make seams wider than 13 mm (half an inch). Here and further, for the entire kiln, before laying, each brick is rinsed in water for 10-15 seconds to wash away dust and improve adhesion. Thermal stresses in the Swedish building are high, and the masonry made from dry, dusty bricks will be fragile. But under no circumstances should you soak the bricks - the brick will take up water, it will go into the mortar, it will become limp, and the oven may even fall apart without being completed. also needed is good quality, on marl. If it is permissible to lay a stove on ordinary clay mortar, this is indicated in its specification.

The next point is the combustion part. For effective afterburning of fuel, subject to fairly intensive heat removal through the oven, the temperature in the firebox must be very high, which is what the Swede is designed for. Therefore, ordinary brick will not work; you need fireclay brick (light yellow). The mortar for fireclay masonry is mixed with fireclay clay. The TKR of fireclay and plain red brick are different, so placing fireclay and red brick back to back is unacceptable. The minimum width of the seam between fireclay and ordinary masonry is 6 mm.

It would be ideal to line the entire combustion part, from the 3rd row to the next one above the stove, with fireclay, but it is expensive. Therefore, the internal lining of the firebox is usually made of fireclay. In this case, 50-100 fireclay bricks are required per furnace.

The evenness of all surfaces of the three-fours and halves of the brick is also important. Fortunately, now almost everyone has a grinder, so there is no need to stab with a butt. But there will be a lot of dust, so it is better to prepare non-whole bricks in advance in the open air according to a template and in accordance with the order of the oven.

The same applies to bricks with rounded corners. Where indicated in the drawing, corners must be rounded. The resistance to the flow of gases in a Swedish stove is high, and its draft is quite weak, and turbulence at the corners will weaken it even more. For the same reason, the mouth of the chimney (chimney) must be made wider with a fluff (it cuts the wind, preventing it from blowing into the chimney), and raised, according to Swedes, no less than 2 feet (60 cm) above the ridge of the roof. According to the same calculations, the width of the fluff, counting from the edges of the mouth, is half a foot (half a brick) in each direction.

Video: masonry process of a Swedish stove

Metal in the furnace

Stove makers know: the less iron in the stove, the more reliable it is. But the Swedes immediately included in the design of their stove the use of iron strips and corners to reinforce the hanging masonry. The reason is the reduction in price of the stove (arched vaults of the road) and a decrease in its height. The ceilings in Swedish country houses are low, and a tall stove with arches simply would not fit there. The iron in Swedes has stood the test of time, but under the same conditions as for fireclay: nothing close to each other and nothing on bare brick. The layer of mortar on all sides of the iron, except the outer one, is 6 mm. The slab is laid in quarters cut out in bricks, also using mortar.

Commissioning

Looking ahead, we’ll tell you about the preparation of the Swede and its use. There is no way to immediately drown a raw Swede. An important condition is to time the completion of the furnace in time for a long period of dry, warm weather; if not, you will have to pay for electricity for the fan heater for two weeks, but you cannot start the oven without two weeks of “cold” drying. The Swedish stove does not tolerate damp bricks in the masonry.

Then – also 2 weeks of “warm” drying. The stove is regularly (ideally, continuously, as the previous one burns out) heated with minimal (2-4 kg) portions of anthracite or aspen wood. Birch and pine are not suitable - they provide a lot of heat, but also a lot of soot.

During warm drying, crumpled dry newspapers or wrapping paper are placed in the cleaning doors. There is nothing to be afraid of - there is too little heat to catch fire. Warm drying is considered complete when the paper stops becoming damp.

Finally - hot drying. These are 3-4, in the mornings and evenings, firing with a gradual increase in the firebox load from minimum to maximum. If the oven is multi-pass (multi-mode), dry it hot in the winter.

Building a Swede: with a bed

A Swedish stove with a stove bench, the drawing and arrangement of which are shown in the figure, is intended for a living area of ​​25-40 square meters. m, depending on the climatic conditions of the area. The bed is the largest possible size for a Swede, so a person of average height can sleep directly on it. The bed is turned on by closing the valve 2.

Details for the picture:

1. View;
2. Summer run valve;
3. Fire cutting;
4. Hob;
5. Grate;
6. Fire door;
7. Blower door;
8. Cleaning doors;
9. Steel fasteners;
10. Cooking niche;
11. Pechurki;
12. Expansion chamber;
13. Caps;
14. Horizontal winter passage channels;
15. Vertical winter running channels;
16. Ventilation door;
17. Entry of flue gases into the smoke circulation;
18. Exhaust of flue gases into the chimney;
19. Hilo;
20. Bypass (flow, from the English bypass - bypass);
21. Thermal compensation gaps.

This oven will require 600 pcs. red solid brick M200, 200 pcs. fireclay Ш8 and 150 kg of marl. Mountain or quartz sand - as needed for mixing a solution of sour cream thickness. In addition, 0.8 m of steel angle - sixties and 5 m of steel strip 50x5 mm.

The fittings you will need are a standard 710x410 mm cast iron stove, a grate 250x400 mm, a combustion door 210x250 mm, a blower door 140x250 mm. You will need 7 valves: 2 smoke valves 130x260 mm (view and summer/bed) and 5 cleanout valves 70x130 mm.

There is no oven in this stove - the heat intended for it goes into a large stove bench, and in the summer it is not needed at all. Afterburning of the fuel is ensured by hoods 13. Although according to heat engineering with gas dynamics, this stove works like a Swedish stove, but due to the stove bench it is more suitable for places with a frosty but dry (continental) climate. In places with a cold maritime climate, such a stove will not provide the heat wave necessary to quickly warm up. In general, a Russian-Asian Swede.

Video: Swedish stove with a stove bench

With fireplace

Here in the picture is a Swedish woman with ; the specification for it is in the list. It must be said that there are two ways to combine a Swedish stove with a fireplace. According to the first, the fireplace is simply attached to the rear of the stove; separate chimneys with chimneys. This saves less materials, and you can heat the stove and fireplace separately as you wish. According to the second method, the chimneys of the stove and fireplace are partially combined and exit into one chimney. In addition to greater savings in material and work, some of the heat from the fireplace is also saved, but such a stove and fireplace can ONLY be heated SEPARATELY; otherwise it’s a waste.

1. Chimney;
2. Fireplace grate pins;
3. Fireplace grate;
4. Kmin smoke tooth;
5. Furnace view;
6. Fireplace view;
7. Metal fasteners;
8. Cleaning door (cleaning);
9. Internal overlap.

The described stove is made in the second way, with a common chimney. It will require:

• Red brick M200 – 690 pcs;
• Clay solution of medium fat content and thickness;
• Fire door 210x450 mm – 1 piece;
• Blower door 140x140 mm – 1 piece;
• Cleaning door 70x140 mm – 4 pcs;
• Cast iron hob 410x710 mm – 1 piece;
• Grate 175x225 mm – 1 piece;
• Gate valve with hole 120x360x300 mm – 3 pcs;
• Oven 450x360x300 mm – 1 pc.

This stove is a real Swedish stove without any special tricks, and it is not difficult to install. The rods - the holders of the fireplace grate - are laid on the second row. The formation of the smoke tooth overlap begins from the fifth row. Having reached the 9th, the laying is stopped until the solution dries, then the smoke tooth is smoothed with a grinder. Internal overlaps are formed in the same way, but here you will have to squeeze: the grinder will not fit through. However, they may not be smoothed out to simplify the work, but the efficiency of the furnace will be lower.

Almost a classic

Now we will look at a stove very similar to the one whose design was presented to their overlord by the venerable Woerd and Constedt. There is only one external difference: instead of a niche there is a shelf, see fig. Nowadays, people engage in latrine trades in a more or less civilized environment and return home from work in a guise quite suitable for further existence, while farming the regiment is more convenient.

Such a Swede will require much less materials than the previous ones:

• Red brick M200 – 540 pcs;
• Any fireclay brick – 30 pcs;
• Steel corner 40x40 – 5.25 m;
• Metal strip 50x5 – 1.35 m;
• Galvanized steel 0.6 mm – 1 sheet;

Fittings are standard, as listed above; There is only one item each, except for the cleaning doors, you need 3 of them. The oven is also standard 500x330x280 mm. There is no summer operation, which ensures simplicity, economy and high efficiency; The masonry scheme is designed mainly for solid bricks, and there is no need to trim anywhere along the course of the masonry. In the villages in the summer they usually cook on a fireplace in a summer kitchen or in an outdoor oven.

Thermal power is 5 kW, which with regular heating twice a day gives a heat transfer of 3500 kcal/hour - enough for 50 square meters in mid-latitudes. m at least. Also, this stove, like an original Swede, can easily withstand overheating of 30-40% of the thermal power, which allows you to set up hot water supply without any problems, see below.

Small dacha

Here in the drawing is Buslaev’s small Swedish stove. Designed to be permanently inhabited during the field work season; say, if a commercial farm is organized on a summer cottage. Therefore, the niche has been preserved: you have to dry clothes and shoes often.

The fittings are the same as in the previous oven; the oven is capable of producing a warm wave. Due to the reduced dimensions, the material consumption is lower, but the thermal power is also lower - the stove is designed to heat 20-25 square meters. m at outside temperatures above –15 degrees. The design and order are simple, as in the previous version.

About babies

The expression “small Swedish oven” includes two fundamentally different concepts. Firstly, it is a channel stove with a hob, the dimensions in terms of which are a little larger than a Dutch column. If there is an oven, it is located far from the firebox along the flue gases. Accordingly, the oven does not catch the first heat and does not produce a warm wave during kindling. There is also no afterburner chamber next to the firebox, which is the highlight of the Swede. The efficiency, thermal power and heat output of such a stove are completely Dutch, and Swedish is only the name.

Secondly, these are industrially produced decorative furnaces (see the figure at the beginning) made of special alloys, modern, computer-calculated refractories, with biofurnaces. Outwardly, such a stove may not at all resemble the old Swede, but it is calculated based on the same principles. Therefore, the decorative baby is a real Swedish stove; No wonder the best of them are Swedish. For comparison: if you put the Wright brothers' biplane next to the T-50, you can still see that they are both airplanes, and not helicopters, airships or rockets.

Swede cap?

In furnace manuals (not many, however), the furnace hood is sometimes defined as the part of it into which flue gases enter from below and exit from below. True, but this is just the tip of the iceberg. The role of the hood in the furnace is twofold.

Firstly, under the arch of the bell, gaseous fuel particles are retained and burn out, increasing the efficiency and heat transfer of the furnace. To perform this function properly, the roof arch must be arched, i.e. rounded. Under a flat roof, 100% afterburning cannot be achieved.

Secondly, the exit of the firebox into the bell is made in the form of a tapering nozzle - a heil. The mouth of the hail (its upper cut) is located HORIZONTALLY, although the channel of the hail can also be inclined. This gives rise to the so-called gas view: heavy cold air cannot pass under the hood, like water cannot pass into the hatch of a diving bell-caisson. If you don’t close the standard view after heating (which 100% saves you from burning out), then the stove will slowly cool down as if nothing had happened.

If the mouth of the hill is inclined, local convection immediately develops, as if cold were drawn from the crack under the door. The tilted caisson floods with water, causing it to capsize and sink - submariners have many scary stories about this - and the furnace with the inclined mouth of the hail quickly cools down when the view is open.

Now let's get back to the Swede. From the diagram at the beginning it is clear that the hood, as such, is simply nowhere to be installed - there is a stove with a drying niche. Afterburning of the fuel is ensured in a different way, and the combustion part is connected to the smoke circulation by a conventional vent with a vertical cut. It may be possible to reconfigure everything and get a bell-type oven with a hob, but its thermo- and gas dynamics will be completely different. Perhaps such a hypothetical stove will turn out better than the Swedish one, but it will no longer be Swedish.

“Two-bell Swedish”

For an example, see fig. “Hilo” is highlighted with a red gradient. Two seemingly caps are also visible, but where is the mouth with a horizontal cut? The caps here are simply expansion chambers without any possibility of arranging a gas view. If such a “two-cap Swede” retains heat with the view open, then the cannon can fire from around the corner. Because a gun shell in flight describes a curved trajectory, artillerymen know.

DHW from Swede

A popular topic – hot water supply and heating of several rooms from one stove – goes under the slogan “free heat”. Let's see what is really possible here and what is not. There are very few serial industrial models for cooking, hot water supply and water heating, and they are expensive. This is already alarming.

Thermal engineering

If a house, at a given temperature difference inside and outside, loses 12 kW of heat, and the stove produces 5, then drown - don’t drown, and the house will cool down to a temperature at which the losses are equal to the generation; There is no such thing as a perpetual motion machine. Even if a layer of the purest anthracite comes out into your cellar, and dragging and pouring 6-8, or even 10 buckets into the firebox is the same as blowing a feather from the palm of Ilya Muromets’s hand, the stove will not accept that much fuel, its thermal power is limited by design. Remelting will produce anything - smoke, soot, fumes - but not heat beyond what the stove can produce.

Boiler and heat exchanger

Let's say the stove is powerful, but hot water is needed only for household needs. How to get it? There are two well-known methods: a U-shaped boiler surrounding the firebox and a heat exchanger in the chimney. Do-it-yourselfers rarely use the boiler: the flame cools down on it, and there is underburning even with a normal firebox; hence the smoke and soot. The boiler itself burns out quite quickly, and may even boil, which will lead to an accident.

It turns out that a heat exchanger in the smoke duct is not a solution either. A sharp increase in pressure due to cooling of the gas on the heat exchanger leads to the occurrence of local turbulence. The energy of the flow is spent on its creation and support, and not on traction. A so-called “dead column” appears, a kind of gas view operating in reverse, which is in no way necessary. And again - smoke, soot, and even fumes during a normal fire.

This phenomenon can be dealt with by letting the gas flow casually towards the heat exchanger, rather than forcing the gas to become entangled in it. But we manage to get very little hot water, and the soot has to be raked out much more often than usual. For example, in a Swede with a hot water boiler, the diagram of which is shown in the figure, the boiler capacity is as much as 10 liters (500x500x50 mm). Not enough for dishes and washing.

And yet it is possible!

However, a homemade Swede with a hot water boiler is possible. You just need to not be greedy or strive for the impossible, but take it where it’s available and won’t hurt.

Let's start with the firebox. The crappiest stove can withstand heating at 20% of its capacity. This gives 1-2 kW of heat. Not bad already; per day you can heat 100-200 liters of water to 65-70 degrees, depending on what kind of boiler and what kind of insulation. Enough for the family to wash and do laundry.

Now where does this heat come from? But the Swede is best suited for this. We use the fact that we are no longer semi-savages and our climate is more even. Therefore, the heat from the drying niche and the warm wave from the oven can be released into the water without impairing the operation of the oven. Most likely, reheating will not be required. There is also a tidbit of warmth in the Swede - its top. It heats the ceiling and attic more with radiation, which, in general, is not necessary.

Based on this, we get a long-known system (see figure): a coil at the far wall of the oven and a storage tank with good thermal insulation (basalt wool, basalt cardboard; plasterboard on top). The tank can be positioned in two ways:

1. Vertical flat in a niche (on the right in the figure) – capacity up to 120 liters. The pressure is small, but in a house without running water it is convenient to fill through the neck.
2. L-shaped, low, wide, but not less than 40-45 cm high, at the top of the stove - on the left in Fig. L-shaped - to cover the chimney.

Both tanks are atmospheric, with a drain hole in the filler cap, and can be refilled automatically via a float valve from the toilet cistern, but the latter requires a little extra flair. The main one is an oblique partition-deflector behind the cold water supply valve. The float rocker and the hot water supply pipe from the coil pass through the slot and hole in it, respectively.

The purpose of the deflector is to direct cold water with a slow, wide tongue to the bottom of the tank. Otherwise, due to turbulence in the flowing stream and hydrodynamic “suction”, the layers of water in the low tank will quickly mix and nothing can be taken away from the hot water. The deflector should be attached not to the lid (this will greatly complicate assembly), but to the sides of the tank. If the tank is vertical in a niche, then instead of a deflector you can simply put a tube on the valve spout. But in this case the water intake will be no more than 2/3 of the tank capacity.

The second highlight is that the float rocker arm needs to be shortened or modified so that when the new valve is completely closed, the distance from the top point of the float to the tank lid is at least 30 mm. This reserve is necessary for wear of the valve needle and fouling of it and the seat with salts.

For seasonally inhabited premises, arranging drainage to drain remaining water for the winter is extra work. It’s easier to release it with a siphon hose through the neck, like they used to share gasoline on the highway.

Note: the system is operational only when the coil is combined with supporting heating from the furnace body. One by one, the water will either warm up a little or cool down quickly. Estimated thermal insulation is double-sided foil basalt cardboard 10 mm and moisture-resistant plasterboard. EPPS 20 mm is even better, but it is more expensive.

What about registers?

But maybe you can build a stove with a water heating circuit yourself? Unfortunately, this is hardly possible at home. An elementary thermal calculation says: for a detached house of 100 sq. m in plan, insulated with 80 mm EPS and with three-chamber double-glazed windows in the windows, a thermal power of 25 kW is required. Boilers with a firebox capable of digesting such quantities of solid fuel require not only complex calculations, but also special materials and industrial technology for manufacturing.

Save on the weather

A stove with three firing modes looks tempting in mid-latitudes with a temperate climate: summer, autumn-spring and winter. But when designing multi-mode (multi-pass) furnaces, one has to overcome pitfalls.

• First, the already mentioned dead column may appear behind or in front of a closed seasonal damper. It will no longer disturb the smoke flow, but it will reduce the efficiency of the stove and it will take longer to warm up. Just when you need better and faster.
• The second is the difficulty of manipulating the dampers. A busy housewife may forget or not figure out what needs to be closed and what to open, and get bored at work in the literal sense of the word.
• Third - sluggish kindling in winter. It is difficult for barely heated flue gases to push out cold, dense and heavy air from the outside along a long, winding smoke path.

And here again the thoroughly thought-out principles of the Swedish oven come to the rescue. The pictures show a Grigoriev stove, free from these shortcomings. It's even four-way; the fourth move is for severe winter.

The Grigoriev stove has three seasonal dampers; in the figure they are conventionally shown in colors: summer green, autumn yellow, winter blue. The switching algorithm is intuitively simple: the damper is open for the season, the rest are closed. For kindling in winter, open the summer damper for 5-20 minutes, and when the flame noticeably reaches into the chimney or starts to hum, close it. For enhanced winter operation, open the autumn damper without closing the winter one. The traction will increase, and you can add more fuel.

Dead columns in this furnace could, in principle, form in the areas marked with a blue gradient. But in reality, cold air (or cooled gas) will immediately flow out of there, and hot air will rise in return. The author, figuratively speaking, adapted the sunken diving bell for use, and the internal heat exchange in the furnace practically does not depend on the combustion mode.

The arrangement of the Grigoriev stove (fig. on the right) is not much more complicated than a regular Swede, and to build it you will need:

• 600 pcs. ordinary red brick;
• simple clay mortar of medium fat content;
• 6 linear meters of steel strip 60x5 mm;
• 4 things. the same type of standard smoke valves, including a view;
• 6 pcs. cleaning doors, also standard;
• standard stove, oven, grate, combustion and blower doors - 1 pc.

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Stoves have long been used by residents of rural regions for heating and cooking. Then the tradition of building in a house migrated to the city. Nowadays, such designs are mainly used in dachas or private homes. The classic Russian stove is being replaced by another stove - a Swedish stove, which is superior to Russian and Dutch stoves in numerous respects. For example, a stove that came from Sweden is distinguished by its compact dimensions, economical use of fuel, greater heat output, etc.

The Swedish stove is used not only for heating the room, but can also act as a mini-kitchen. To do this, you need to install a hob on a folded platform or equip an oven. This multifunctional design allows you to both cook and heat the entire house.

The designers of the Swedish brick kiln took into account the peculiarities of the Scandinavian climate, which is characterized by dampness. In fairly cold conditions, it was necessary to quickly warm the house, dry clothes, and prepare food. Therefore, the design has a special partition that allows the stove to be used in two rooms at once. This is the main difference between a Swedish oven and a Dutch oven.

In addition to the above-mentioned advantages, the design has a number of positive qualities, among which it is worth noting such as:

• The firebox, made in the form of a bell, ensures proper combustion of fuel, long-term maintenance of heat and smoldering of firewood.
• You can install an additional hob on a Swedish stove with a stove.
• The stove is installed between the kitchen and living room, which allows you to warm the room while cooking.
• You can install a water circuit on the stove, which will allow you to use it for heating a house or bathhouse.
• High efficiency of fuel combustion. It is allowed to use firewood, reeds, and small wood. These types of fuel have increased heat transfer, so your home will always be warm and dry.
• The Swede warms up within 10-15 minutes after the fuel is ignited. In order to retain heat for as long as possible, it is necessary to close the valve tightly.

A Swedish stove for a country house is the most suitable option for heating and cooking food and heating water. While there are a large number of advantages, it is necessary to note the presence of certain disadvantages:

• First, you need to carefully select the material. It must be of high quality. Fireclay brick is not suitable, which affects the duration of heat retention.
• Secondly, construction must be approached carefully, involving specialists who will be able to correct mistakes at the bricklaying stage.
• Thirdly, you should not skimp on specialists who will help you start the heating system. Otherwise, the oven will not function as it should.
• Fourthly, it gets damp quickly, so the stove must be constantly in use. If this does not happen, then the structure must be thoroughly dried before heating.

Characteristics

Unlike the Dutch, the Swede has compact dimensions:

• Height varies from 2030 to 2170 mm.
• The width can be between 880-885 mm.
• Height - from 1010 to 1020 mm.

This small Swedish stove is very easy to assemble with your own hands and is capable of heating a room of up to 30-35 m2.

There are several types of Swedish stoves, which differ in the nature of their assembly and functional purpose. Furnaces are divided into the following groups:

• A Swedish fireplace with a hob that faces the street. Inside the room there is a firebox and a fireplace portal. This type is usually installed in the living room.
• Swedish stoves with deck chairs. Suitable for cold regions and small rooms where there is not enough space. The lounger can act as a bed.
• Stoves with hob and oven. Such structures are installed between the kitchen and the room.

Before you build a brick stove with your own hands, you need to find out the dimensions of the house and draw up a drawing indicating the location of the stove on it. This will save time on redesigning the design.

For country houses, it is best to choose a Swede that will not be equipped with a heating system.

In winter, people rarely come to their dacha, so there is no need to install an expensive structure. But for a country house, it is better to install a stove model that will allow you to both cook and heat the entire house.

Design and operating principle

The Swedish heating and cooking stove was made on the basis of the Dutch one, which did not have an oven, hob, place for drying clothes and heating water.

The principle of operation of the Swede, without reference to models, is one - channel. The firebox oven is located on the side, allowing heat to be transferred directly into the room. When the wood begins to give off heat, then it gradually begins to heat the oven and the side, and only then goes down.

The upper part of the Swedish stove heats up very quickly, due to the fact that the heat transfer channels are located at the back of the panel.

The efficiency of the Swedish model significantly exceeds the productivity of the Dutch one. For example, if a Dutch woman gives off about 2.5 thousand kilocalories of heat per hour, then a Swede gives off 3.5 thousand kcal. To do this, it is enough to put several portions of firewood into the firebox during the day, and the heat in the house will remain for 24 hours.

High-level economics and efficiency in a Swedish-assembled stove are ensured thanks to a rather complex smoke exhaust system. As a result, it is simply rational to use heat in winter and summer, setting a different type of construction for each season.

If the stove is provided with a deck, then the heat transfer channels must be installed in a horizontal position. A special valve is installed next to the channels, which helps regulate the heat supply in summer and winter. The valve can be rotated in a horizontal or vertical position, depending on the season. In horizontal mode, the heat will go directly to the sunbed, and in summer - into the chimney.

The design of the Swedish stoves may differ, depending on the model, but the following elements are required in the stove:

• An oven that is intended for heating. The oven is made in the form of a hood, thanks to which the flame from the fuel does not touch its walls, but is immediately transferred to the heating elements. The so-called flue gases go down, so the stove is heated from the floor.
• The upper niche, which is heated by the heat of the first or second level. This space is usually used to dry clothes.
• A niche above the stove, which is made above the hob. You can put cooked food here to keep it hot in the morning.
• Smoke circulation, made in the form of a special flow window. This should be done from the bottom of the oven.

Fuel types

The structure is built in a house for more than one year, so only high-quality bricks must be used for laying the stove, and heating must be carried out only with approved materials. The efficiency and amount of heat generated depends on this. Different types of fuel provide different amounts of heat, and this must be taken into account when choosing how to heat a room. The most common types of fuel for Swedes include:

• Wood of different species. It is worth considering that birch, oak, beech, and maple can provide much more heat than pine, aspen or alder. Firewood must be dried so that it produces a lot of ash and not smoke.
• Peat, which can be pressed, lump, carved, milled. It is best to use pressed peat, the briquettes of which are highly dense. As a result, a few pieces are enough to maintain heat for a long time. In terms of heat transfer, peat is close to wood. The amount of thermal mass released depends directly on how correctly the peat was dried and pressed.
• Coal, for which a special grate must be placed on the Swedish stove. Its elements must be heated by coal, which gradually burns.

Do-it-yourself Swedish oven

Before assembling the “Swede”, it is necessary to draw up an exact diagram of the order of the stove, indicate the places where the oven, hob, chimney, and air ducts will be located. The easiest way is to assemble a cooking-heating stove yourself, which will have all the necessary components. The hob and oven are made of glass, and the oven door is made of glass.

Materials

To assemble a Swede with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following materials:

• Fireclay brick, which is made from refractory clay. You cannot use ordinary brick; it is not able to withstand high temperatures.
• Clay used to hold bricks together during laying.
• Metal flaps, latches, doors that help in the full operation of the Swede.
• Finishing materials - plaster, lime, clay.

Tools

To lay the swede in order, you will also need special tools, which include a trowel, a bayonet shovel, a plumb line, a hammer, a level, and a container for preparing the solution.

Tools required for masonry

Foundation

How to fold the stove when all the preparations are done? First of all, you need to make markings for the foundation, on which the stove will then be placed. The marking should be 10-15 centimeters larger than the base of the stove. Then you need to dig a hole, at the bottom of which lay a mixture made from sand and water. The width of the layer should not be more than 20 centimeters. Crushed stone is poured on top of the sand, which must be compacted well, and formwork made of wooden boards must be placed.

They are covered with plastic film, on top of which a concrete solution must be poured. The thickness of this layer should not be less than 15 cm. Reinforcement must be placed in the cement that has not yet hardened, pressed into the mortar and filled with cement again.

The next step will be to install a mesh of reinforcement, but only when the first ball of mortar becomes solid. The second layer must be leveled and wait for it to harden. In total, these two phases will take three to four weeks. When they pass, the Swede's serial laying begins.

We put the stove, stove, oven

While the foundation is drying, you need to take care of the fuel part - stoves, fireboxes, ovens. The thickness of the slab should not be less than 710 by 410 mm. The dimensions of the firebox can be as follows:

• Height varies between 281 by 330 mm;
• The width is 305 by 356 mm;
• The depth is 406 by 506 mm.

The oven will have almost the same dimensions as the firebox. The oven depth will be 281 by 305 mm, width - 330 by 381 mm, depth - 456 by 506 mm, the thickness of each oven wall will be, on average, from 4 to 6 mm. The walls should not be thin so as not to burn quickly, but they should not be made thick either, otherwise the oven will take a long time to heat up.

For the firebox, you need to take a cast door that has a “whisker” and is embedded in the masonry. The “whiskers” are installed independently if you weld annealed steel wire at the corners of the door frame. You will need two pieces that will be parallel to each other. Then the “whiskers” must be spread apart, giving the wire a V shape. These elements must also be embedded in the wall, additionally secured with a steel corner.

Fire door with welded “whiskers”

Order

The new stage of construction of the Swedish stove will be quite long in order to correctly arrange the bricks.

The sequential installation of the stove looks like this:

• The base is laid out in the form of a square, each side of which is 1.1 m. The top should be exactly one brick below the floor level.
• Then the first continuous row of bricks is created.
• The second row will also be solid, but in place of the fireplace you need to install a grate.
• The third row is laid out with bricks, creating a vertical channel and a space allocated for the oven. After this, you need to mount the doors and build a firebox for the fireplace.
• The fourth row - bricks are simply laid out.
• Fifth row - at the same time as the laying, a grate must be installed.
• The sixth row is to create an overlap between the oven and the vertical channel.
• Seventh row - you need to install two strips of metal.
• The eighth and ninth rows are ordinary brickwork.
• Tenth row - you need to make a niche intended for cleaning the fireplace; a hob is installed.
• Eleventh row - a niche is made for the hob, the holes are blocked.
• Rows 13-15 - a mantelpiece is created, so the bricks need to be pushed forward a little. In 13-14 rows you need to lay bricks that will be cut obliquely. They should be positioned towards the front plane of the fireplace.
• Row 16 - completing a niche for the hob.
• Rows 17-18 - laid out with bricks without additional mounting elements.
• Rows 19-20 - a chimney is formed.
• Rows 21-23 - doors are created for cleaning channels.
• Row 24 - you need to install a damper for the fireplace.
• Row 25 - the valve for the furnace is installed.
• Row 26 - the vertical channel must be connected to the chimney.
• Rows 27-28 - creating the longitudinal walls of the channel that will pass above the fireplace.
• Rows 29-30 - solid brickwork.
• Row 31 - a common valve is installed.
• Row 32 - formation of the Swedish oven pipe.

Furnace arrangement diagram

Important nuances

The foot of the oven - usually the first two rows - should be wide. This is achieved through seams with a width of 6 to 13 mm. This way you can get a pedestal that has the shape of a protrusion. You should not make the ledge wider so that the foot does not turn out awkward.

Before laying, each brick must be immersed in water and rinsed. This will ensure a strong masonry. The brick should be in the water for no more than 15 seconds so that the material does not take on water. If it penetrates into the masonry, then the structure will fall apart.

The master must pay special attention to the combustion chamber in order to burn fuel efficiently. It is made of fireclay bricks, which have a light yellow color. The mortar for masonry must be prepared using fireclay clay. It is not recommended to use fireclay and red bricks together, or stack them end to end. There should be a distance of 6 mm between different materials. For the combustion part, which starts from the third row, fireclay should be used. Considering the high cost of the material, you can line the inside of the firebox with such bricks.

Bricks with rounded corners are used in the chimney to reduce resistance to gas flow and turbulence. The chimney should be made with a fluff, raised 60 cm above the roof.

At the time of writing this article in the spring of 2013, Shvedka type stoves are No. 1 in the ranking of Russian stove makers, although objectively this is of course fundamentally wrong, I will write about this in more detail at the end of this article. Moreover, from the huge variety of their varieties, you can actually find them either from familiar stove makers or on a trusted website. I’ll say right away that the “Swedish” model presented in the article was put together by me quite recently and showed itself only on the positive side, firstly, it turned out to be quite effective in terms of design, and secondly, with consistently good traction, it stored heat in a country cottage with an area of ​​40 meters up to 2 days after combustion. In addition, the onset of heat radiation also occurred within the first 15 minutes of the firebox, while the temperature of the oven and hob were beyond praise.

Many stove makers of the old school, like me, were always taught the Swedish order of laying bricks on the edge (as if it was beautiful this way and the customers liked it to warm up quickly), time has shown the opposite - laying a stove in the brick floor is much easier to do, more durable and safer to use. For this reason, I posted the drawings of just such a thick-walled “Swedish” and not the old versions of quick heating in 1/4 bricks.

Order drawings of the Shvedka furnace of the K.Ya. Buslaev system

I know of more than 12 different designs for Swedish stoves, of which I personally put together 7. Of these seven, the best for me is the “Swedish”, developed by K.Ya. Buslaev. Laying any Swede is not an easy task with a complex smoke circulation system and increased requirements for proportions and seam dressing. And there can be no mistake here, otherwise there is either a problem with traction or a crazy consumption of bricks for battle 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4, this is not for you with which you can replay all 3 times in a day. For this reason, I highly recommend using the proven scheme of this particular Buslaev furnace.

The furnace is laid mainly with bricks on edge; all the bricks are first soaked in water to achieve a minimum thickness of the seams. Uneven bricks must be pressed together. The size of Shvedka Buslaev is 1160x900 mm, height without pipe is 2100 mm, heat output is 5 kW. The oven is also equipped with a cast iron stove 560x965 mm, a samovar and an oven 600x400x350 mm. A separate foundation is required for the furnace. It has been accurately verified despite the complex five-channel smoke circulation due to careful calculation of the furnace layout, as when firing with gas, condensation does not form at the outlet of the pipe. The mode of self-cleaning and simple repair of the stove has also been thought out.

Swedish stove laying requires: about 300 kg of clay-sand mortar and 550 bricks of standard size 250x120x65 A solid foundation is required for the swedish, the brick must be soaked. The furnace is laid in the brick floor (120 mm) up to the 11th row inclusive, then brick on edge (65 mm)

Materials for masonry “Swedish” K.Ya. Buslaeva.

1. - fire door, 21x25 cm - 1 piece;
2. - blower door, 14x25 cm - 1 piece;
3. -cleaning door, 12x12 cm - 3 pcs;
4. - red brick - 550 pcs;
5. - oven 45x25x29 cm - 1 piece;
6. - grate 20x30 cm - 1 piece;
7. - valve 25x13 cm - 1 piece;
8. - cast iron stove with 2 burners, 41x71 cm - 1 piece;
9. - hood damper 13x13 cm - 1 piece;
10. - fireclay brick SHA-8-30 pcs;
11. — steel corner 45 x 45 x 700 – 1 piece;
12. — steel corner 45 x 45 x 905 – 5 pcs;
13. — steel strip 50 x 5 x 650 – 2 pcs;
14. — drying shelf 190 x 340 – 1 piece;
15. — drying chamber covering sheet 800 x 905 – 1 pc.
16. — pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm – 1 pc.

Swedish oven with stove and oven

In the absence of gas heating, a Swedish stove can serve as a worthy analogue. It allows you not only to heat your house or cottage, but also to use the stove for cooking. Unlike the Russian stove, this stove has lower efficiency, but it heats up faster due to its small size. Most often, such a stove is placed in the wall between the kitchen and the living room, or the living room and the kitchen. If desired, such a stove can have an additional bench. The classic version is made of ceramic bricks, and the firebox is made of fireclay. A large oven is located on the side of the firebox. The oven heats up in the first minutes of the fire and helps improve the heating of the room.

Photo

The Swedish stove "Shvedka" can be visible, rough and weighty. Usually equipped with a stove and oven. Small decorative options are placed in the corner. The modern analogue is made from ceramic bricks and can be lined with soapstone magnesite. They can be installed in any convenient place. This design has a special storage cap, which helps burn fuel and increase the heat transfer of the stove. This oven consists of a lower, upper niche and a niche above the stove.

Catalog of stoves "Shvedok"

	Has a high level of efficiency. High degree of heat transfer, functionally adapted to cook food in the oven or on burners, of which there may be one or two.. It heats up quite quickly. The combustion process is regulated (by dampers). Can be done with “winter” and “summer” running.
	Swede oven 2 With good efficiency, it is small in size. Ovens of this type are multifunctional. Food is cooked on them, water is heated, various foods and clothes are dried. Rooms are heated with such stoves.. In addition, the Swede can be wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall.
	This design can be: wall-mounted; angular; in the center of the room; built into the wall. Dimensions - 115 x 90 x cm. Weight 2000 kg. Heat output with two fireboxes per day is 1900 kcal/h. Power = 4.2 kW. Can heat a house up to 40 m2.
	Equipped with an oven, a stove with one or two burners, and an upper drying chamber. In this design, the firebox is located on one side. It is possible to move the combustion door (if the customer requests it) to the opposite side.
	By combining a stove and a heating stove into a single structure, you will get a device of this design. There is a firebox with a stove, an oven and a heat shield.
	Plate with shield 6 Design dimensions: 102 x 102 x 217 cm. Weight (including shield) - 2800 kg. Heat transfer (with two fireboxes) - 3100 kcal/h. The front sides of the shield and slab are usually plastered.

Design and features of the Swedish stove

The lower niche heats up first, the second after. The upper niche is quite spacious. Warming up occurs with both the first, second, and final heat. The Swede heats the lower part first, since the flue gases from the firebox go down. Instead of a chimney for this oven, an overflow is made, which is placed below the oven. To preserve heat, after the firewood burns out, you need to close the valve. Vertical channels are considered a classic option. Horizontal channels heat better, but require more frequent cleaning.

Heating and cooking stove Swedish No. 2. Designed for a rural home. Has heating and cooking functions on the stove and oven. The most common design in northern latitudes.

The construction process of the Swedish

The process of constructing a Swedish stove. For the construction of the furnace, the following calculations are taken: for the stove - 71 by 41 centimeters; for the firebox (height, width, depth) 30 by 35 and 45 centimeters; for oven 30 by 35 and 50 centimeters. These dimensions may vary depending on the oven version. The metal walls for the oven must be at least 4 millimeters. The distance from the edge of the grate to the oven should be about one brick. There should be a gap of a quarter brick from the back of the oven to the firebox. The oven is made of dense cast metal.

Orders of the Shvedka stove

When the oven approaches the firebox, the walls are additionally protected with vermiculite. The door must be cast iron. It is attached to the masonry, which guarantees reliable fixation.

Before masonrybrick ovensThe floor is thermally insulated. Insulation can be made from basalt cardboard. The insulation is laid so that at the end a 1.5 centimeter layer is formed. The middle layer is made from a foil sheet.
The foot of the stove (the first 2 rows) is laid out with widened centimeter seams, this creates a ledge. The brick is moistened before laying. The next two rows form an ash pan and three doors are installed for cleaning the oven. The doors are mounted with a gap. An asbestos cord is inserted into the gaps.

With a two-layer stove made of red and fireclay bricks, a distance of 6 millimeters is made between them. The internal lining of the furnace is lined with fireclay bricks. The grate bars are inserted. And the oven is inserted into the same row. From the sixth to the ninth the combustion chamber is formed. The door is inserted. The tenth row covers the oven.

Next, the slab is laid and smoke channels are made. When laying the slab, quarters are cut out of the bricks.From the twelfth to the sixteenth, the cooking chamber and smoke exhaust channels are laid out. The next two are laid with trimmed bricks. From the twenty-first to the twenty-eighth there is a chimney. In the twenty-seventh, a valve is inserted with a basalt cord gasket in the gap. From the twenty-ninth row there is an extension for the cornice of 5 centimeters. The channels (except the pipe) are closed.

The next row is made even wider by 5 centimeters. Then the size is reduced to the original size. The pipe is laid out in 5 bricks. In front of the ceiling, 3 rows of pipes are fluffed up. The thickness of the pipe is one and a half bricks. An iron smoke cap is placed on top of the pipe. The pipe running outside the house is lined with cement mortar.

Materials

* ceramic brick m200, - 600 pcs.;
* brick-resistant, - 80 pcs.;
* fire door 210 x 250 mm - 1 pc.;
* blower door 250 x 140 mm - 1 pc.;
* cleaning door 140 x 140 mm - 5 pcs.;
* cast iron plate 410 x 710 mm - 1 pc.;
* oven 450 x 360 x 300 mm - 1 pc.;
* grate length 250 mm - 1 piece;
* pre-furnace sheet 500 x 700 mm - 1 pc.

Video: Do-it-yourself Swedish oven

Chimney

The Swede's chimney is made with a wider fluff. It rises above the ridge of the house to a height of at least 60 centimeters. The width of the fluff from the edges of the mouth should be half a brick in all directions. There should be a gap of 5-6 centimeters between the iron roof parts and the brick.

After building the stove, the Swede must dry and only then can it be used. To dry it, you can heat it daily with a minimum amount of aspen firewood. Warming up increases over time until it reaches full power. After this, you can use the Swedish stove.