Are ventilation ducts necessary in a private house? How to make ventilation in a private house

The microclimate of the house depends on the correct ventilation device, which has a direct impact on the well-being and comfort of all its residents. Properly constructed ventilation ducts in a private home will ensure stable air exchange. They will create conditions for regular supply of fresh portions and unhindered removal of polluted air.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the specifics of constructing duct ventilation in a low-rise country property. We describe in detail the technology of installing a ventilation system, placing equipment, laying and fastening ventilation ducts. Practice-tested improvement options are discussed.

The information presented for consideration is based on building regulations. Taking into account our recommendations, you can build effective ventilation yourself. For visual understanding, diagrams, photo guides and video instructions are attached to the text.

Ventilation of the room is necessary in order to create optimal conditions for people’s lives and the existence of furniture and equipment located in the house.

If in apartment buildings everything has already been done by the specialists who erected the building, then during the construction of private real estate this issue is often overlooked.

Sometimes the installation of ventilation ducts is considered a waste of time and money. However, they are an obligatory part of the project implementation, ensuring favorable living conditions and long service life of building structures

This is a fundamentally erroneous opinion. Musty air, sweaty windows, unpleasant odors from bathrooms and the aromas of fried food, along with fumes, will enter all rooms and even the bedroom. Without a properly designed and assembled ventilation system, the comfortable life of the inhabitants of the house will be at risk.

Ventilation in a private house can be:

• natural;
• mechanical;
• mixed.

The first type is based on the natural process of circulation of air masses. No mechanisms are used to pump air into the house. It comes from the street, penetrating through micro-ventilated windows or supply valves arranged in the most suitable places.

In rooms of the house that do not have valves installed, air circulates through doorways and through cracks between the door and the floor.

Rules for installing ventilation pipes

A properly equipped ventilation system will perform its functions efficiently and will not create problems for the homeowner. To do this, it is important to lay ventilation ducts in the house, taking into account the rules and recommendations.

Firstly, the size of the exhaust ventilation duct in the room must have a diameter of at least 10x10 cm or 15x15 cm. It is better to use ready-made pipes than to make ducts from plasterboard - this will save installation time, and air flows better through the pipe.

To install ventilation ducts, galvanized metal and plastic rigid or flexible pipes of various diameters are used.

Secondly, ventilation pipes must protrude above the roof to a certain height, depending on their location. Thus, the length of the vertical section of the ventilation duct should on average be from 1.5 to 3 meters. If pipes do not fit into the overall design of the house, then you can use ventilation outlets in the roof.

The height of the ventilation ducts above the roof level is assumed to be equal to the height of the chimneys. It depends on the location of the pipes relative to the ridge ridge. It is important to protect the outlet opening with a grate to prevent birds and insects from entering the shaft

Thirdly, according to the regulations, it is necessary to provide ventilation to the boiler room and the room located above the boiler room. Moreover, the purpose of this room does not matter. This could be an office, library, bedroom or living room.

Fourthly, it is important to distinguish between the concepts of chimney and ventilation. In the first case, combustion products enter the channel, and in the second, exhaust air from the room itself. Under no circumstances should these 2 channels be combined into one. This is a gross violation.

Ventilation outlets fit well into the overall idea of ​​the roof design. You can choose the model that best suits the color

Fifthly, in the kitchen you need to provide 2 separate ventilation channels - and for supply air. The second option is to use a special grille where the air duct is connected and there is a separate hole for air to flow into the room. Or a window with micro-ventilation would be a good solution.

Thoughtful design solutions with a stepped ceiling can disguise any ventilation system

Sixth, if the house has rooms intended for household needs - a dressing room, laundry room, pantry, washing room and other purposes, then it is necessary to design a ventilation duct there. In such rooms there are no windows through which air could flow.

Seventhly, when a ventilation duct is laid in a wall, it is important that it is not load-bearing. It is not recommended to install them in external walls - due to temperature changes, condensation will always form there.

When installing a ventilation duct in the wall, rooms such as the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, boiler room should be nearby

The eighth rule is that wooden ceiling and roof structures should not adjoin or touch a stone or brick ventilation duct. For a tree, such a neighborhood can be disastrous.

The ninth rule is that it is undesirable to use only a window as a supply valve. She's not the best option. A sore nasopharynx in the morning, if there is a sudden change in weather overnight, will be a problem for the owner of the house who slept with the window open. This is especially true in the autumn and spring.

Tenth rule - when it is not possible to make ventilation ducts in the room, you can install a supply valve by drilling a through hole in the wall. And at the top, right under the ceiling, drill a hole for installing an exhaust valve. This option for room ventilation can provide the room and its occupants with fresh air.

The ventilation system is an important communication of any home, without which a comfortable life is simply impossible. In the case of apartments, the owner does not have to worry about its design. At most, he will need to install an additional hood or fans.

In private houses, everything is much more complicated. When building them, it is necessary to prepare a high-quality design of the ventilation system and think through everything to the last detail: select air ducts, decide on the type of system, carry out calculations, etc. In this regard, the question “how to make ventilation in a private house” requires a detailed answer.

The need for an effective ventilation system

A good ventilation system should work efficiently and without interruption. Therefore, its design and installation require special attention. An important condition that must be observed is that the number of incoming fresh air flows must be equal to the number of exhaust air masses removed.

If there is more inflow, stuffiness in the house will increase and air circulation will deteriorate. If the output speed is higher, the room will lose heat very quickly. Only proper ventilation in a private home can ensure comfortable living. Therefore, before designing it, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic theoretical information, as well as the standards and requirements.

Requirements and standards

To create optimal living conditions in private homes, it is necessary that the ventilation system be capable of providing the required air exchange. Ideally, each room in the house receives 60 cubic meters of air volume per hour.

A high-quality project will allow you to achieve ideal parameters. However, when creating it, it is necessary to take into account that a certain amount of fresh air must enter a certain room. The norms look like this:

It is important to understand that not only the above premises must be ventilated, but also living rooms, utility rooms, etc. In order to create an ideal ventilation project, it is necessary to add up the air exchange rates of each room of the house and calculate the average value. During this process, it is necessary to ensure that the actual amount of air exchange exceeds the minimum norm.

Kinds

There are many types of ventilation systems. They are classified among themselves according to several parameters.

• Functional differences:
  • supply – provides inflows of fresh air;
  • exhaust - ensures removal of exhaust air masses outside the house;
  • recirculation - supplies fresh flows with a small admixture of exhaust air.
• Air circulation method.
  • ductless - fresh air enters naturally through windows, doors, etc.;
  • ducted - air flows circulate through a specially created network of channels.
• Principle of operation.
  • natural – the room is ventilated naturally;
  • mechanical - ventilation of rooms occurs due to the operation of specialized mechanisms and devices.

Natural ventilation in a private house

Natural ventilation in a private house works due to the flow of fresh air through windows, doorways, walls, etc. The removal of exhaust air masses in such ventilation is also simple.

Fresh air flows push exhaust air upwards, which in turn enters the channel system and is discharged out of the house. This occurs due to temperature differences. This method of ventilating a room is the best for the home.

It is very easy to create natural ventilation in a private house during its construction. It is enough to create a high-quality and thoughtful project and perform accurate calculations. To do this, it is enough to have minimal theoretical knowledge. Installation of the structure can be easily done using ordinary tools.

Forced ventilation in a private house

A forced ventilation system in a house is used when natural circulation is not enough. It is often used in modern wooden houses made of glued timber, which has a fairly high level of tightness.

The principle of operation and the device of forced ventilation are divided into three types:

• supply - if there is a lack of fresh air masses, fans and other mechanisms are used to provide additional air supply to the room;
• exhaust - used to speed up the process of removing exhaust air flows, allows you to get rid of stuffiness and high humidity in the room;
• mixed - the two types described above are used in parallel (work simultaneously).

Calculation

The performance of the ventilation system depends on whether the incoming and outgoing air flows correspond to the conditions of the house. Calculating ventilation in a private house with your own hands is quite easy; to do this, just use simple formulas.

The first step is to calculate the air exchange rate. This indicator shows the number of complete replacements of exhaust air with fresh air in one. For most rooms in a private house, one is enough. In boiler rooms, kitchens and bathrooms, parameter 2-3 is used. It is worth saying that when calculating the air exchange rate, it is necessary to take into account not only the area of ​​the rooms in the house, but also the number of people living in it.

The described parameter is calculated using the following formula: L = n * V, where:

• L – performance of the structure providing air flow;
• n – norm of air exchange rate for a specific room;
• V is the area of ​​the room.

Design

The home ventilation design should ensure air circulation in the following way: air circulation should occur in the direction from the cleanest rooms to the most polluted. When drawing up diagrams and design drawings for the location of valves and fans, this must be taken into account.

Typical ventilation design involves placing hoods in bathrooms and kitchens. In turn, the mechanisms that provide air flow are located in each room, with the exception of rooms equipped with an exhaust hood.

Things to consider

When installing a modern ventilation system in a house, it is necessary to take into account the main criteria by which the equipment is selected. These include:

• maximum possible power of the ventilation unit;
• working pressure value;
• noise level.

The speed of circulation and replacement of exhaust air flows depends on the cross-section of the air ducts and their location. To ensure its high value, it is necessary to create a system of ventilation ducts of the same diameter and ensure a minimum number of turns.

When building a house

When building a private house from scratch, you need to pay increased attention to the ventilation system. At the stage of wall construction, it is necessary to carry out calculations using the formula described above and create a ventilation system based on the data obtained.

This is done in order to hide the ventilation system communications in the walls of the house. This will not only save the amount of free space in the premises, but also preserve their interior and design.

In addition to this, if it is planned, or, then it is necessary to immediately take into account their ventilation, and make mortgages at the stage of work with the foundation of the building. The same applies to the basement and other underground premises.

In a finished house

Installing a ventilation system in an already built house is more difficult. It is necessary to create a channel project that can be placed among other communications. It is also necessary to take into account the importance of natural air exchange (air entering through doors, windows, etc.) and, based on the data obtained, create a forced ventilation design.

Ways to organize the right system

As already mentioned, in addition to natural circulation in the house, there are three options for the design of ventilation in a private house. Each of them is used in certain situations and has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Supply

The principle of operation of supply-type ventilation is to provide an additional influx of fresh air flows. This process is carried out through a special air valve. Depending on the specific model of the ventilation unit, it may have additional capabilities, such as air filtration, heating, humidification, etc.

Many people ask the question “how to install fresh air ventilation in the house.” This is quite easy to do. It is enough just to have minimal theoretical knowledge and basic skills in working with tools. Supply valves can be installed in walls, windows, ducts, etc. This system is used when there is a lack of fresh air.

Exhaust

The hood is used in cases where it is necessary to speed up the removal of exhaust air masses. Fans are installed in ventilation grilles. In most cases, hoods are installed in kitchens, baths and toilets, since it is in these rooms that the air is most polluted.

There are two main types of hoods. The difference between them is that the first one always works, and the second one can be controlled. Turn on or off, adjust operating power, etc.

Exhaust hood is used in cases where the process of removing exhaust air masses occurs slowly. It is important to meet the condition under which the volume of incoming fresh air is equal to the amount removed.

Supply and exhaust (the best option)

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the house, which is also called complex, is also easy to install. You can install it yourself. In fact, a ventilation system of this type consists of supply and exhaust mechanisms that operate simultaneously.

Supply and exhaust ventilation is the best option for ventilating a house. This is due to the possibility of adjusting the amount of incoming air masses and the speed of exhaust removal. It is necessary that these two parameters are equal, otherwise the room will be stuffy or cold.

With heat recovery

Ventilation with heat recovery is a system in which incoming air flows are heated by the temperature of the exhaust masses. A design of this kind can save you a lot of money.

However, the equipment of such a system will cost a fairly large amount. This is due to the complex design. The fact is that to create a ventilation system with heat recovery, it is necessary to connect the supply ducts with exhaust ducts. To complete this task, a large amount of materials and calculations are required.

The peculiarity of such ventilation is that it can only work forcibly. However, all costs are fully justified, since in the end most of the heat thanks to the system remains in the room.

How to make ventilation in a private house with your own hands

The procedure for self-installation of a ventilation system in a private house can be divided into several main stages.

1. Calculations and design. The first step is to calculate the required air exchange. This can be done using the formula described above.
2. Selecting the cross-section of air ducts. After calculations, it is necessary to determine the diameters of the system channels. A small value will lead to constant pollution, a large value will lead to noise and loss of productivity. When installing channels, it is necessary to reduce the number of turns to a minimum.
3. Selecting the type of ventilation. As already mentioned, the best option is a supply and exhaust system.
4. Drawing up a channel layout diagram.
5. Determining the location of the intake and outlet of air flows.
6. The installation of ventilation itself.

By making accurate calculations, using high-quality materials and strictly following the described algorithm, creating a ventilation system with your own hands is very simple.

Installing a fan in the bathroom

Installing a fan in the bathroom is a simple procedure that will ensure high-quality air circulation. The first step is to decide on the location of the structure. Most often, it is installed in an outlet connected to the general ventilation system.

To install the fan, you must follow the following step-by-step instructions.

1. Connect the fan to the power supply. The switching procedure can be carried out using a button located directly on the structure, or you can connect it to a regular switch near the bathroom.
2. Next, you need to remove the protective cover and secure the structures at the outlet of the ventilation hole using polymer glue or liquid nails.
3. The last step is to install the protective cover and check the operation of the installed structure.

Exhaust device

The operating principle of the exhaust fan is as follows:

• the air in the room is heated by heating devices, the breathing of residents, etc.;
• fresh air enters the room and creates increased pressure due to the temperature difference, due to which the exhaust air masses rise to the ceiling of the room;
• An exhaust fan draws air from the upper part of the room into ventilation ducts, through which it is subsequently removed from the house.

Supply ventilation using a diffuser or grille

Fresh air is supplied through ventilation ducts. Elements such as diffusers and grilles are responsible for its uniform distribution throughout the room. They allow air to circulate evenly throughout the room, which prevents stagnation from forming.

Diffusers and grilles are classified according to several parameters:

• shape – round, rectangular or square;
• size;
• additional options - built-in fans, hoods, humidifiers, heaters, etc.

Supply ventilation using a supply valve

Supply ventilation, operating through supply valves, is the simplest way to create a ventilation system. A valve is a structure that can be installed in walls, windows, doors, etc.

Air comes from the street through valves and enters the room. very easy. To do this, just follow the following instructions.

1. Determine the location of the structure. Most often, such structures are mounted in the space under windows or in walls.
2. Regardless of the chosen location, it is necessary to drill a through hole at an angle in the downward direction (this is required to prevent water, dust, etc. from entering the room).
3. Next, you need to install the valve and fix it in the hole.
4. The remaining space in the hole made is sealed with sealant.

When choosing the number of supply valves, it is necessary to take into account the removal rate of exhaust air masses. The hood must be able to remove the amount of used air equal to the volume of incoming air. In this case, the efficiency of the ventilation system will be maximum.

How to properly ventilate using a duct system

“How to make natural ventilation in a private house?” The installation procedure for a ventilation system is divided into two parts: installing the necessary equipment and creating an air duct system. It’s worth taking a closer look at the second one. When installing ventilation ducts, the following features must be taken into account:

• It is best to place air ducts in the walls - this will increase the temperature difference in the winter and increase the level of draft;
• rectangular air ducts take up less space, but round ones are easier to install and are less susceptible to contamination;
• it is necessary to use wide ventilation ducts - this will also have a positive effect on traction;
• ideally, it is required to use air ducts of the same section; if this is not possible due to circumstances, then the connection of pipes of different diameters should be smooth, the bevel angle should not exceed thirty degrees;
• the internal space of the channels should be as smooth as possible;
• it is necessary to minimize the number of turns in the system; by the way, each turn reduces the ventilation performance by about ten percent.

By following the tips above, creating a proper duct system is very easy. Installation of channels is easy to carry out using ordinary tools and fasteners.

As a result, you can understand that it is impossible to give a definite answer to the question “which ventilation to choose for a private home.” The calculation and design of the scheme is made based on many parameters: the area of ​​the house, the number of residents, the level of natural ventilation, etc. When calculating, it is necessary to take into account the required air exchange rate for one person, which is equal to 10 cubic meters per hour.

Most people opt for a supply and exhaust ventilation system. This is due to the following factors:

• possibility of adjusting operating power;
• ensuring a good flow of fresh air and high-quality removal of exhaust air masses;
• ease of installation, etc.

However, in some cases, installing this type of system will not be advisable. When choosing one type or another, it is necessary to base it on the available air exchange. If there is a lack of fresh air, a supply unit will be required; if the speed of air mass removal is low, an exhaust unit will be required. The main condition that must be observed in any home is that the volume of incoming air must be equal to the amount of air removed.

Let's start with a figurative comparison: labor protection rules are written in blood, and SNiP requirements for air exchange inside residential buildings are written in black mold. It is the fungus that forms in the corners of the rooms that indicates an increased moisture content plus a lack of fresh air. The purpose of the publication is to tell how ventilation is done correctly in a private house or apartment. The recommendations below will help you create a healthy microclimate in your home or fix the existing problem yourself.

Three types of ventilation systems

To provide for normal ventilation of premises, you need to understand the essence of the problem and know the technical means to help solve it. Proper ventilation in the house performs 2 functions - removing exhaust air and supplying a clean air mixture from the street.

The atmosphere of living rooms is polluted by several waste products of people:

• water vapor released during breathing and during cooking;
• carbon dioxide and other harmful compounds in small quantities;
• various unpleasant odors.

Reference. To create excess moisture, it is enough to light the gas stove; it is not necessary to boil the water. The products of methane combustion are carbon dioxide and water vapor. The first creates a feeling of stuffiness, the second saturates the air in the kitchen with moisture.

There are 3 types of general ventilation systems that can maintain the microclimate in the rooms of the building:

1. Natural.
2. Combined.
3. Compulsory with mechanical motivation.

Before considering the operating principle of each scheme, let us state an important rule: you cannot organize an exhaust hood without providing for an inflow, and vice versa. The removed air must be replaced by outside air, otherwise the effectiveness of ventilation will be reduced to zero.

Comparative example. Imagine a pump pumping water inside a sealed container. When the pressure in the reservoir reaches a certain threshold, the movement of liquid will stop regardless of the power and speed of the engine. The impeller will begin to mix the water in one place. Pumping (or sucking) air into an enclosed space will produce a similar result.

The principle of natural exhaust

Ventilation of this type works due to natural draft that occurs inside a vertical pipe and encourages air to move along the channel from bottom to top. It is important to understand what traction force depends on:

1. The difference in atmospheric pressure at the lower and upper ends of the pipe. The higher the ventilation duct is built, the greater the pressure drop and traction power will be.
2. The difference between room and street temperatures. The cold flow displaces the heated and lighter room air, which is why the latter tends to go to the upper zone of the room and further into the exhaust shaft.
3. Degree of moisture saturation. Paradoxically, at the same temperature, the air mixture saturated with water vapor becomes lighter than dry air and also rises.

If you open the balcony door in a poorly ventilated apartment, a wet spot will form on the ceiling due to moisture condensation

Reference. The relative molecular weight of water vapor is 18 units, air - 29. Accordingly, when humidified, the gas mixture becomes lighter. The effect is noticeable in the presented photo.

The temperature and humidity of the environment fluctuates throughout the year, followed by changes in traction force. This is why natural exhaust works less well in summer - the temperature difference is small. One parameter remains unchanged - the height of the channel and the pressure difference.

A natural ventilation device is the cheapest way to organize air exchange inside a country cottage. Natural draft is also used in most apartment buildings: supply air is supplied through special valves, and exhaust is carried out using vertical shafts running inside the walls.

Combined air exchange

In this case, natural ventilation in the house is enhanced by placing electric fans at certain points. There are 2 options:

• outside air is supplied by mechanized air supply units, exhaust occurs through a vertical channel;
• A low-power fan is placed on the exhaust shaft; the inflow is carried out through special valves with outlet to the wall.

A conventional wall valve supplies air without a fan

A striking example of a combined option is a fan installed in the toilet or a kitchen hood. The first quickly removes unpleasant odors, the second sucks out harmful fumes during the cooking process.

Mechanized inflow is provided by local units built into the thickness of the wall (so-called breathers). The installation filters the outside air, plus during the cold period it heats it with an electric heating element. The feed volume and degree of heating are adjusted manually or automatically.

Combined ventilation is successfully used in all types of private houses - brick, frame, built from aerated concrete and SIP panels. If the fan is installed on an exhaust pipe, then the replacement of the heat removed along with the air falls on.

Breather device - local air supply unit

Forced ventilation of the building

The operating principle of forced air exchange is simple - exhaust and supply are provided by mechanical ventilation units powered by electricity. There are quite a lot of schemes and options for such ventilation; here are some common examples:

1. The influx is handled by breathers installed in all rooms. In the attic there is a general exhaust fan that collects exhaust air from the rooms and removes it outside.
2. Each room has a separate supply and exhaust unit with a recuperator, built into the external wall.
3. One common installation is responsible for air exchange - the central air conditioner. The unit cleans, humidifies, heats and cools the inflow depending on the conditions and time of year. Air distribution and extraction is carried out by a network of ventilation ducts. A recovery function is also present.
4. The microclimate inside the home is maintained by fan coil units with heating/cooling function. Hot water from a gas boiler and refrigerant from a chiller (a type of refrigeration machine) are supplied to the heat exchangers.

The simplest scheme of forced air exchange

Explanation. Recuperation is the process of selecting thermal energy from the exhaust air, which is used to heat the influent air. A special heat exchanger is used - a recuperator, where counter air flows intersect but do not mix.

A special feature of mechanical ventilation systems is the combination of ventilation with air heating. What's the point of spending money, designing and installing a radiator circuit when you need to heat the supplied air? The correct solution is to increase the inlet temperature to 30-50 °C and thus compensate for heat loss through the external walls, and not provide radiators and heated floors at all.

Scheme of movement of counter flows in the recuperator

Which option is better

If you want to arrange the ventilation of a private house with your own hands, we recommend giving preference to the first two systems – natural and combined. Arguments in favor of these options:

1. Acceptable financial costs for installation and operation.
2. Minimum electricity consumption. Exhaust fans of combined systems operate periodically and consume a total of 100-200 W/h. Heated supply units will take more - about 500 W for each room.
3. Ventilation with natural impulse is quite capable of ensuring normal air exchange in a one- and two-story building, especially inside a country house.
4. There is no need to allocate the useful volume of the building for the placement of ventilation equipment and the laying of air ducts.
5. There is no need for maintenance of units, annual cleaning of filters and air channels.

Important point. The installation of fully mechanized general ventilation requires a thorough approach - calculations, design and qualified installation. It will not be possible to do without developers with specialized education and competent performers.

The last nuance: if forced ventilation was not initially provided for in the house, it will not be easy to allocate space for laying air ducts. You'll have to get creative and put ventilation ducts under the floor or in wooden ceilings and pass them through rooms. In addition, part of the living area will be occupied by equipment, as the expert will talk about in the video:

Doing ventilation correctly

When organizing air exchange, we propose to take as a basis the system with natural impulse as the cheapest and most widespread. This option is also suitable for all types of outbuildings - bathhouses, sheds, chicken coops, cellars and so on.

Comment. Conversations that natural ventilation draws a lot of precious heat out of the house are untrue tales from sellers of various equipment. If there are no gaps in the house for the passage of outside air, then the hood will remove exactly as much as the influx allows, as we wrote about above.

Before you do ventilation, you need to find out the volume of air in the supply and calculate the total air exchange. – a big topic of our separate article.

As an example, we use the layout of a one-story house. The drawing shows the air flow pattern and the location of the supply and exhaust devices. A number of rules must be followed:

• external inflow must be organized in all rooms except corridors and bathrooms;
• the direction of flows inside the house - from living quarters to the more contaminated kitchen and bathroom;
• the ventilation duct block is made in the partition between the bathroom and the kitchen or attached to the outer wall;
• the height of the pipes is determined by calculation, the minimum for a one-story building is 2 meters;
• Separate shafts are built for the toilet, kitchen and local mechanized hoods so that odors do not flow into neighboring rooms;
• Vertical channels made of plastic pipes passing through a cold attic must be insulated so that you do not have to deal with condensation.

A modern method of rapid thermal insulation of plastic pipes is spraying Polynor polyurethane foam

Important clarification. The air exchange diagram in a two-story dwelling looks similar. Since there is no kitchen room, a separate exhaust duct is provided in the bathroom or other point.

Now we will consider in detail the organization of flows for each room.

Living rooms: bedroom, children's room, living room

In recreational areas with permanent occupants, it is important to create a healthy atmosphere - to supply clean air from outside in the following ways:

• install an Aereco type supply valve into the window profile;
• install an adjustable ventilation valve into the wall;
• install a breather with a fan and additional heating of the air stream.

Reference. In Soviet-built multi-story buildings, a special supply slot was provided at the bottom of the window sill. In the process of replacing wooden windows with plastic ones, installers seal the specified opening. Without inflow, the draft of the vertical shaft does not work, the ventilation of the apartment does not function. Hence the increased humidity, fungus and other delights.

Supply valves should be installed at a height of approximately 2 m from the floor. The convective flow rising from the radiators mixes and heats the cold influx. The hood is a 15-20 mm high gap left under the interior door.

Air is sucked into the opening under the influence of vacuum created by the kitchen and toilet ventilation ducts. Moving at low speed (0.1-0.2 m/s), the air mass enters the corridor and rushes to the mouth of the exhaust grille.

Advice. Today's interior doors often fit snugly in the vestibule, not allowing air into the corridor. Buy door leaves with a built-in cross-flow grille or install one yourself.

Options for built-in ventilation grilles

Kitchen-dining room

The atmosphere of this room is polluted by gas combustion products, excess moisture and emissions from people entering along with the air of other rooms. Ventilation should be arranged according to the following rules:

1. There are 2 inflow points - a slot at the bottom of the door leaf and an adjustable valve in the wall (window profile).
2. Ideally, 2 vertical pipes are built, leading to the roof - for general ventilation and kitchen hood. Then fat and soot will not clog the main channel.
3. Air intake grilles are mounted under the ceiling.
4. It is allowed to install one exhaust shaft of sufficient diameter.
5. The channel should only be open from the kitchen side. You cannot let air in from the toilet there - the smell will penetrate into the dining room.

Note. According to SNiP requirements, the room requires a single air exchange plus 100 m³/h for a gas stove or 60 m³/h for an electric one. That's why you need to arrange 2 tributaries.

A mechanical kitchen hood cannot be connected directly to the shaft - when the fan is turned off, the channel cross-section is blocked by grease filters and an impeller. Use a tee and check valve as the homeowner suggests in the video:

Bathroom – toilet and bath

The standard ventilation scheme for a wet room is simple:

1. Air from the hallway leaks into the bathroom under the front door.
2. Mixing with the damp environment of the bathroom, it becomes lighter and rises to the ceiling.
3. Under the influence of draft in the grille located in the upper zone, the air is slowly drawn into the exhaust duct and thrown out.

Sectional diagram of air exchange of a building

In order to quickly remove moisture and unpleasant odors from the toilet, an axial fan can be built into the shaft opening. One condition: the idle impeller of the unit should not block the air flow, otherwise the ventilation efficiency will decrease. Use an adapter with an additional grille or a tee with a check valve.

Boiler room and other rooms

For normal operation of any boiler, except an electric one, a certain amount of air is required for combustion. The exact volume or specific requirements for furnace ventilation are always specified in the operating instructions for the heat generator.

The air mixture is supplied to the boiler room through the door, and exhaust is done through a separate vertical channel. The grate is placed in the upper zone of the combustion chamber; no additional fans need to be installed.

An important nuance. The chimney of a solid fuel or gas boiler serves as a powerful exhaust hood, especially during combustion. If the furnace is built inside the cottage, then the draft of the chimney will carry away most of the air from the living rooms on the first floor. Therefore, it is advisable to equip the pipe heads with deflectors that enhance traction.

It is better to install external and internal ventilation ducts of the house from plastic or tin pipes of the calculated diameter. Air ducts laid through a cold attic must be insulated.

It is acceptable to use plastic pipes for internal sewage, but keep one caveat in mind: gray polypropylene can burn on its own. PVC ventilation ducts are made of attenuating plastic. For installation details, see the video.

Conclusion

When analyzing the methods of ventilation of a private house, we did not mention the source of additional inflow - infiltration. Air leakage through small cracks in modern homes is virtually absent or minimized thanks to new windows and door seals. It makes no sense to take into account the flow through the smallest pores.

Ventilation systems come in a variety of designs, so choosing the right option for a private home is quite difficult. You need to understand many subtleties and nuances before making a decision.

What is it for?

Home ventilation in a cottage or country house is needed primarily for ventilation, that is, to replace exhaust air masses with fresh ones. However, this seemingly simple answer hides many subtleties and nuances. It is not always enough to pump in a certain volume of air from the outside and dump some of it outside. A very important task is to free the home atmosphere from dirt, harmful microorganisms and dust particles.

Even in cottage villages, the purity of air masses is questionable. Still, every minute factories are working somewhere, trains and planes are rushing, smoke is pouring out of power plants and from the exhaust pipes of cars. A conventional gas stove pollutes the room atmosphere with moisture additives. Plastic windows disrupt the normal process of removing dirt. Modern ventilation devices successfully solve all these problems.

Windows with mesh can prevent bumblebees and flies, mosquitoes and leaves from getting inside. But they will not protect against dust particles and plant allergens. The air passing through the mesh remains as excessively humid or dry as it is outside. It is not heated in winter and brings sweltering heat in summer. High-quality ventilation reliably cuts off all these negative factors and does not allow mold and other fungi to settle in the house.

Ventilation system design

Ventilation systems can solve such problems only if they are properly organized using a special method. Plastic air ducts are widely used for organizing mines. Thanks to universal connections, you can assemble everything yourself. Metal structures are more reliable, but assembling an air duct from them is much more difficult. This type of work is mostly done by craftsmen.

Grilles are used to distribute air; 1 house can sometimes have more than 10 grilles. They are divided into supply and exhaust format devices. But a prerequisite is that the grille (together with other components) must block the opening for air passage by a maximum of 40%. Forced ventilation systems are often equipped with diffusers and fans.

Ventilation complexes equipped with heaters are capable of heating the incoming air. The efficiency of this option is higher than using even the best heating devices to warm up the already supplied air. A very important component in many cases is the filter. They may not be used in suburban homes, but the proximity to a federal highway or railroad requires the use of an appropriate device. In this case, it should only cope with freeing the air from dust.

Regardless of the subtleties of filling, the equipment used and the natural or artificial drive of air, it is taken from below and released at the top point. Of the additional devices in the natural ventilation scheme, only a supply valve is present. Hoods for boilers, as well as for gas and electric stoves, are of the autonomous type. It is important to understand that they are not able to replace a full-fledged ventilation system. After all, air intake near the ceiling and at a considerable distance from heating devices still does not occur, and therefore the atmosphere in the room will inevitably remain clogged.

Kinds

Already at the time of construction, any building, including a private house, must be equipped with natural ventilation devices. This is a basic minimum, without which a normal indoor environment cannot be ensured. It is for such components that the calculation is usually carried out first, and the portion of air provided by natural ventilation is subtracted from the demand in order to determine the required power of mechanical devices. But the disadvantage of such a system is that it works stably only within very strict limits. It is enough to change the weather conditions, just change the direction of the wind, and the efficiency tends to zero.

Supply ventilation systems provide rational control of the quality characteristics of the air in the home. The simplest way to ensure the flow of air mass is a fan placed in the window opening. The disadvantage of this option is that it only works well during warm periods. If the temperature is very low, it will create discomfort.

The kind of external ventilation that can be seen in public and industrial buildings is excessive for a private home. And the point is not only in excessive power, but also in the large occupied area. You will need to perform the work as accurately as possible and develop the project in the smallest detail. Monoblock systems operating on inflow have become widespread. Such systems are assembled within a single building equipped with noise insulation.

Personal air supply systems only work for one room. Most of these devices are low-power and do not create much noise. The costs of purchasing them are low. There is no need to use air ducts or involve specialists. It is possible to equip such systems with recuperator units, but their effectiveness is ensured only at positive air temperatures.

The attached type of ventilation ducts should have dimensions of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. It is advisable to use ready-made pipes rather than build communications from plasterboard. This is more reliable and saves time during installation. The pipes are discharged above the roof, the lifting height is determined by the installation location. It is prohibited to use ventilation combined with a chimney; The supply and exhaust for the kitchen must be independent of each other.

Separate ventilation ducts lead to rooms that are needed to solve household problems. These are dressing rooms, laundry rooms and storage rooms. Such channels cannot be laid in load-bearing walls. It is also inadvisable to install them in external walls, where this will lead to continuous formation of condensation. The laying of ventilation routes for gas also has its own characteristics. It does not matter whether water heaters (water heaters), heating boilers or kitchen stoves are installed.

The combustion of natural gas inevitably leads to a reduction in the concentration of oxygen in the air. Additionally, this causes an increase in the concentration of carbon dioxide, the chimney becomes increasingly clogged with soot, and the air in the room quickly fills with water and dust. And all this is dangerous not only due to subjective inconveniences: it poses a threat to the health and even lives of people. Since private houses, with the exception of large cottages, do not install boilers more powerful than 30 kW, it is from this level that we should proceed. Natural supply ventilation of boiler rooms is created by marking a channel, the margin of which is about 1 cm.

The diameters of the air pipes are at least 150 mm. They should be laid in openings with a slight inclination towards the street. To cover empty areas, use foam. The part of the foam that extends beyond the contour must be cut off after hardening. It is not possible to eliminate dust clogging in this scheme; the solution to the problem is to use grilles with filters.

Another grille is mounted at the outlet of the pipe to the street to prevent small animals and debris from getting inside. The outlet must be located at least 1 m from the boiler. This requirement is intended to prevent the influence of cold air on the operation of the gas boiler. You should not rely too much on automation: yes, it can compensate for such an impact, but this will only significantly shorten the service life of the product. The natural format of boiler room ventilation, depending on external conditions, allows you to save energy.

Mixed supply and exhaust units contain filters, fans and air heaters. In boiler rooms they provide a complete microclimate. Taking into account the capabilities of modern automated boilers, such systems help reduce fuel consumption and stabilize the operation of heating equipment. Boiler rooms can use ducted or ductless air supply systems. In the first case, its flows are collected together and then discharged outside naturally or forcibly.

To move the air created by gas equipment, rectangular channels based on galvanized steel are most often used. Such systems are easy and simple to install. The kit always includes the necessary parts. There is almost always no need for auxiliary fittings. Since the size and weight of the air ducts are small, you can create them with your own hands.

Standard requirements and design rules

According to regulatory requirements, all technical solutions in buildings and structures must be focused on ensuring and maintaining a microclimate that complies with the instructions of GOST 30494. You should also be guided by the instructions contained in the sanitary rules of 2002. Even emergency ventilation and smoke protection equipment cannot create general noise greater than 110 dB, and impulse noise greater than 125 dB. Anti-corrosion coating of air ducts can be done with easily flammable paints, but their thickness cannot exceed 0.02 cm.

According to the standards in force in Russia, it is necessary to force the air into motion if the meteorological characteristics of the area do not provide the required parameters for its movement. This may also be due to the need to purify incoming air masses. Mechanical ventilation is mandatory in all areas where natural ventilation is completely impossible. Another case where you can’t do without artificial encouragement is in areas where the air temperature drops to -40 degrees or less. In such situations, it is necessary to supplement the pumping systems with heating means.

According to SNiP, air purification from dust should be carried out to the maximum permissible concentration for a specific settlement or lower. All systems should be designed so that the room temperature does not fall below 12 degrees. Ideally, it should be kept within normal limits. The lowest point of the part receiving air from the outside must be located at least 1 m above stable snow cover and 2 m above ground level. If the territory may be subject to sandstorms, the rise should be already 3 m. But the need to protect air receivers from pollen, leaves, twigs, petals and the like is determined individually, according to the technical specifications.

All points where transit air ducts are laid through walls must be sealed through partitions using non-combustible materials. It is prohibited to combine air ducts with gas pipelines, electrical wiring, communication cables and sewer systems. The approach of all these communications to pipes and their simple intersection are also prohibited. If there are several ventilation systems (usually supply and exhaust), then instruments for measuring temperatures and pressures are made common for all circuits.

According to the current GOST, it is allowed to use only those methods of fastening air distribution devices to air ducts or to permanent structures of buildings that are provided for in the technical documentation for the products.

Materials and components

The arrangement of ventilation in houses made of SIP panels has its own characteristics. In this case, since the buildings are lightweight to the limit, the simplest ventilation systems are usually used. The exception is for houses with a height of two or more floors. Even if a house made from such panels is built using ventilated facade technology, additional air flow will still be needed. The simplest option to ensure its flow without disturbing the climatic properties of the premises is to use special valves.

They are mostly installed directly into house frames. Such structures are externally invisible and do not detract from the appearance of the buildings. To connect the supply valves to the frame and ceilings, you can use plastic or asbestos-cement pipes. It is strictly unacceptable to make metal air ducts. They will significantly increase noise and weaken thermal insulation. According to professionals, asbestos-cement slabs as a basis for ventilation of a SIP house are much better than their plastic counterparts.

Mechanical ventilation systems in SIP houses can provide air cleaning and heating simultaneously with pumping. The problem is that it can be quite difficult to make such highways without the help of professionals. Only very trained and skillful people will solve such problems successfully. The key link is the hood, which provides rarefaction of air in living rooms. Since the intake of air masses is carried out forcibly, increased pressure is formed, which ensures the release (displacement) of the exhaust part of the atmosphere into the street.

In many frame buildings they try to make combined ventilation systems. They help maintain optimal air movement with little energy consumption. For a large cottage (180-200 sq. m) it is necessary to create 6, 7 or 8 ventilation ducts. If the total area of ​​the home is smaller or larger, their number also needs to be changed. The pipes form a kind of collector, which is equipped with an exhaust fan.

It is better to use not just mechanical, but fully automated fans. They will need to be connected to humidity sensors installed in each room. Then optimal temperature and humidity conditions will be ensured in any room. The use of infrared measuring instruments is not recommended because their cost is prohibitive. Only professionals calculate the fan power, because no one will be able to do it correctly without special training.

To form ventilation lines in private houses, PVC sewer pipes with a cross-section of 11 cm are often used. They are almost 3 times more profitable than galvanized counterparts, and the air moving through them makes less noise. What is important is that such structures can be installed relatively easily, and the joints will have a high degree of tightness. Such pipes can be equipped with fittings of various types, which makes it possible to make smooth and sharp turns of pipelines at any angle.

The smoothness of the inner wall virtually eliminates obstacles to the movement of air flows. This means not only minimal “loudness,” but also high ventilation efficiency. Buying such pipes will not be difficult in any city. But we must take into account that all sewer pipes are round; they take up more space than rectangular structures of similar capacity. But the concern about the accumulation of static electricity on plastic pipelines, as practice has shown, has no good reason.

As for the release of toxic substances, nothing can be said without studying a specific sample. Only after testing in a laboratory does it become clear whether a certain type of plastic is dangerous or not. All that remains for the consumer is to rely on the quality certificates provided by manufacturers and sellers. Before drawing up a wiring diagram for ventilation pipes, it is necessary to take into account the natural or forced nature of ventilation. Only then will it be possible to use the correct formulas for calculating cross-sections based on throughput levels.

Chimneys, or rather forced exhaust systems, deserve special attention. Although they do not intersect with ventilation and cannot form a single circuit, the tasks being solved are still quite close. Weak draft in a private home is bad not only because of the threat of smoke and carbon monoxide poisoning, not only because of soot and soot in the home. Even a slight weakening of it, which can be difficult to notice, results in excessive fuel consumption, a drop in the efficiency of its combustion and accelerated cooling of the rooms.

Another nuance is that unstable operation of the hood threatens a fire. If soot accumulates, it may one day ignite in such a way that even a heat-resistant type of brick cannot withstand it. By replacing the usual wooden windows with cracks with plastic ones and installing steel doors, the draft will inevitably weaken. After all, all chimney designs are also designed for this fresh air influx channel. Therefore, it will be necessary to compensate for the lost power of natural ventilation through special techniques.

To cope with the effects of wind or changes in the direction of air movement, weather vanes and weather vanes can be used. Such elements, turning in the direction of the flow, block the head of the pipe and maintain a stable mode of air movement in it. When flowing around such parts, the wind contributes to the formation of rarefied areas above the end of the chimney. The result is increased traction without consuming electricity. Most often, weather vanes are made from stainless steel; the sheet thickness should be at least 0.05 cm.

To ensure movement around its axis, weather vanes are equipped with closed support bearings. Such devices do not require additional maintenance during the entire period of operation. If the product meets standard standards, the housing does not collect condensation and soot. The only thing the owners will need to do is fight the formation of ice crusts. In addition, it is worth considering that weather vane fans operate poorly and unstably if the wind is very strong.

An alternative to them are rotary turbines. These devices also use the energy of atmospheric currents. But the twist occurs in one direction, regardless of which way the wind blows. The ball, assembled using a special system of “petals,” prevents the pipe from clogging with all kinds of dirt and prevents birds and insects from settling in. However, when there is no wind at all, this expensive product is almost useless.

The exhaust fan does not depend on the weather. It is fundamentally different from a fireplace ventilation device designed to force draft. The basis of the device is an electric motor designed to be powered by a regular home electrical network. You need to use a smoke exhaust fan if you need to create increased draft in the smoke duct for a small fireplace. High-quality designs ensure normal ventilation of the hearth even when the chimney duct is heated to 600 degrees.

How to do it yourself?

You can begin installing ventilation communications in a private house only after a diagram has been drawn up in accordance with all the rules. But the scheme itself can only be drawn up on the basis of accurate information and estimates:

required air exchange parameters;

created microclimate;

standards for the installation of ventilation equipment;

features and modes of its use.

Russian standards provide that per 1 sq. m of enclosed space it is required to supply 3 cubic meters. m of air in 60 minutes. But at the same time, we must not forget about the “human” norms - 30 cubic meters. m per tenant. All this is worth remembering when it comes time to calculate the cross-sections and internal diameters of the channels, their length and air movement speed. If the kitchen is equipped with an electric stove, 60 cubic meters should be supplied there. m of air, and if gas - another 50% more. When possible, it is worth drawing up technical specifications and entrusting the development of the project to qualified specialists.

As with other technical systems, we must strive to reduce the number of installed parts. It is important to consider points such as:

the ability to repair and configure everything yourself;

availability of backup nodes;

ease of operation;

reliability in a wide range of conditions;

harmonious fit of the ventilation complex into the interior;

cost-effectiveness during installation and use.

All longitudinal seams on air ducts and other elements must face upward. Each fastener is tightened until it stops so that the bolts cannot be turned any further. Individual parts of communications can be placed on the mountings provided for them only after installation. When selecting and using fasteners, pay attention to the weight of the air ducts. The load from them should not go to the devices.

All fasteners must be equipped with means that inhibit the spread of vibration. Radial fans should be placed on rigid supports and secured with anchor bolts. The filter blocks must be tensioned evenly so that they do not sag. Loose installation of electric motors (in which they are poorly fitted to the fans) is prohibited. It is recommended to check whether the fan blades rotate freely.

All openings used for air passage are covered with protective grilles with a mesh size of no more than 70 mm. A mandatory requirement is also to reduce to a minimum the number of bends and turns, as well as intersections and duplicate sections. In any case, the sequence of installation work is as follows:

marking positions for using fasteners;

assembly of retaining structures;

preparation of air ducts and receipt of components;

formation of individual sections of the ventilation system;

merging them into a monolithic complex with consolidation in accordance with plans and diagrams that meet regulatory requirements.

In residential buildings, unlike industrial facilities, ventilation ducts are most often hidden from external view with the help of finishing elements. The selection of a ventilation system for a private home is determined by considerations such as:

construction materials of the building and its floors;

total area;

intensity of home use;

number of residents;

environmental and sanitary characteristics of street air;

climate regime of the area;

Rose of Wind;

characteristics of polluting factors in the home environment;

economic feasibility of using certain solutions;

ensuring comfort and a sanitary safe internal environment;

minimizing fire risks and noise;

no negative impacts on neighboring houses and plots, or on the environment.

In private homes, you can use both forced and natural systems. The second option is preferable for buildings made of brick, wood and expanded clay concrete blocks. If the home is equipped with a balcony or loggia, these rooms must be equipped with devices for micro-ventilation. But much more often, hoods are used to remove condensate. Supply and exhaust devices should be used in rooms that do not have windows.

Forced supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended for ventilating built-in garages and home boiler rooms. In a mixed system, a convector is responsible for the influx, the additional functions of which are heating, filtration and disinfection of incoming air. Ultraviolet emitters are widely used to combat harmful microorganisms.

The use of recuperators helps prevent overcooling of the serviced premises in winter.

Phased installation involves installing:

filter systems;

heater;

fan;

recuperator;

air conditioning systems.

If there is no need to place a block, it is simply skipped. But there is no need to change the general order. Air conditioning units are installed last, just before the discharge hole. Domestic ventilation ducts passing through unheated roofs must be covered with thermal insulation. When it is planned to combine inflow and outflow, care must be taken to install exhaust fans. Electrical lines are laid last, just before they are connected; They must be grounded.

When ventilation systems are divided into sections, networks for each of them are assembled separately. Pre-launch tests of all units must be carried out without fail.

It is necessary to drill inputs and outputs with a slight slope in the direction of the street. This is important for complete drainage of condensate. Hole diameter is at least 120-130 mm.

It is advisable to install wall valves in the space from the window sill to the heating radiator. You need to cut a passage in the wall, the cross-section of which ranges from 50 to 60 mm. The pipe goes into the hole. Then you need to secure the outer and inner distributors. Subsequent cleaning of the valve should be done every 6 months or even more often.

Products that activate air exhaust in a private home are installed mainly in kitchens (above stoves) and in bathrooms. The current consumption of such systems is small; it is possible to power them with electricity taken from the light bulb regulators. Mixing and mutual blocking of flows flowing from toilets and bathtubs can be prevented by using a return valve. Air can easily pass through it, but the reverse movement is impossible. Small modifications are fixed to:

• original fasteners offered by the manufacturer.

When choosing a product, you need to look not only at compliance with the project. A very important point for the quality operation of the valve is isolation from water. Experts note that silent systems consume more electricity during operation. Experience in using various versions has led to the conclusion that the body made of acrylic and polyisopropylene is characterized by increased strength. Output through the wall is not the only way to ensure air flow; there is also the possibility of installing products (or preparing passages) in window blocks or separately.

Having opened the frame, cut off the outer seal from the bottom, the length of which does not exceed 50 mm. The removed part of the material is left in storage because it may suddenly need to be returned. A similar part of the internal seal is cut off at the top. The principle is extremely simple:

street air passes into the lower channel;

passing through the internal cavity of the frame, the flow is heated;

an improved portion of air from above is released into the room.

But such a measure, for all its simplicity and ease of implementation, is acceptable only in the southern regions. Wherever severe frosts may occur, the outer hole will freeze and stop working. In addition, there is no way to filter or intensively heat the air. Valves are more advanced in this regard, but they have their drawbacks:

many walls can only be broken through with special tools;

drilling will be accompanied by the release of a mass of fine dust;

assessing the quality of thermal protection of a wooden or stone wall in a drilled location is possible only in winter - when it is almost impossible to quickly eliminate the deficiencies;

heating, filtration, drying and humidification of air are possible only using electrical systems.

In a residential cottage where a heating boiler is installed, a distributed air duct system is most often used. The reason is that any heating boilers absorb a lot of air during their operation. Neither natural circulation nor valves will be able to compensate for the resulting loss. The preferred location of the inflow is at the entrance to the home or in the corridor. After all, it is these points that are guaranteed to communicate with all the others, and the air streams will need to cover the shortest possible distance.

Air ducts can be made not only of steel and plastic; In some cases, corrugated aluminum gives good results. To make the intersections of elements impenetrable, you can use both sealants (there are a lot of them) and insulating tape. Pipes are attached to the ceiling using hangers, carefully choosing their design. Mounting to walls is done using special clamps. To curb noise and vibration, it is allowed to use foam or foam rubber.

During the pre-launch test you should check:

no vibration;

ensuring design and/or standard performance;

normal operation of all installed parts and control devices;

correct air distribution in accordance with planned calculations;

completeness of smoke removal in the kitchen;

the completeness of freeing baths and toilets from moisture, bad and strong odors;

absence of defects in all fastenings and joints;

absence of short circuits and improper operation of electrical circuits;

uniform temperature adjustment during operation of heating devices.

A common misconception is that in a wooden house the walls themselves provide adequate air passage. Even for log buildings built in accordance with modern requirements, this is no longer the case. The problem is even more acute in frame housing with basic wooden elements. If this consideration is not enough, it is important to look at something else:

wood easily becomes saturated with moisture and rots;

without full pumping, the natural ability of wood to let air through will still not allow for its correct change;

natural circulation does not allow the air to warm up;

Carbon dioxide, excess heat and moisture in the air do not escape through wooden structures.

Natural ventilation in a wooden house is usually installed immediately during construction. Vertical channels are made first in basements, and then in other parts of the home. Vents are prepared in the basements, and the supply channel is mounted at the base level. Recommendation: it is advisable to install it from the north, since there the temperature difference is greatest, as is the draft it creates. If the house occupies a large area, it is necessary to form several channels at once.

The organization of ventilation in brick houses is noticeably different from the scheme just described. Hoods must be made in full compliance with fire safety requirements. All hoods are also equipped with insulating grilles; if they are also made of brick, you must create special pockets that will allow you to remove accumulated soot and dust. The air supply inside the brick building is ensured by a fan placed close to the window. But to discharge the exhaust air mass, it is placed in a channel opposite the window opening.

Channels are laid in any case according to templates. For their manufacture, boards measuring 140x2500x25 mm are used. Such parts are provided with cuts, each of which has the same diameter as the ventilation duct. If the room area is 30 sq. m or less, a recess of 14x14 cm is quite enough for it. But the rise of the channel masonry above the roof surface should be at least 7 bricks.

When working, you need to make sure that each seam is perfectly closed with mortar. Only then will the leakage of smoke, vapors, soot and soot into the serviced space be prevented. It is three times more important to provide all rooms where there is no natural circulation in a brick house with an artificial air supply. You will also have to remove it mechanically. The presence of cracks and extraneous holes or cracks in the wall, inside which cold air is supplied, is unacceptable.

Frame buildings made of timber, used only in the summer months, may not be equipped with ventilation systems. But if they are nevertheless created, the recuperator should be supplemented with a bypass. Then, on hot days, excess heating of street air can be canceled without intruding into the design of the air ducts. You can use both conventional and monoblock complexes. The second option has enhanced noise protection, and therefore is ideal for private housing.

Many frame house projects are initially supplemented with special openings, which are initially designed to carry out the required communications. You should not refuse this opportunity. Plastic pipes for air supply and exhaustion are ideal in frame buildings because they:

cheaper than steel ones;

not subject to the destructive effects of condensate;

do not turn into cold bridges.

The minimum size of horizontal channels is 10x10 cm. For horizontal mains, this figure starts from 12x12 cm. It is imperative to use window frames (along with walls) to place inflow valves. It is recommended to install ventilation ducts near air ducts serving gas boilers. If the house is equipped with a conventional stove, the discharge channel is as close as possible to this device.

The hood in a one-story house is often enhanced by adding a household fan. This approach is quite convenient and allows you to prevent the spread of bad odors throughout the house. But ensuring normal operation of the system is impossible without leaving gaps separating the floor from the doors. Central air conditioning is often an added upgrade. However, its use is difficult due to the fact that it will be necessary to stretch very thick pipes.

They take up a lot of space and are not always practical or comfortable in appearance. The cost of such a device is not affordable for all people. But regardless of the season, it will provide the same level of heating in any room. In a two-story residential building, the problems are somewhat different. Here, supporting normal air circulation in sanitary facilities and kitchens occupying different tiers comes to the fore.

Please note: conventional technical solutions used in two-story buildings often create increased noise. We must immediately prepare for this and actively dampen extraneous sounds. At the same time, it is impossible to reduce the ventilation power of problem areas - the air in them should be changed 10 times in 60 minutes. Professionals consider the best solution to the problem to be the use of a natural supply and exhaust configuration and a recuperator.

The main ventilation unit in a house with both a full second floor and an attic must pump at least 400 cubic meters per hour. m of air.

But the larger the ventilated area, the stronger the installation must be. It is recommended to use decentralized type recuperators. Such devices are installed in separate rooms, eliminating the need for air duct systems. Positive results are reflected even in adjacent rooms.

Correct air movement is ensured by placing the receiving and output openings on opposite walls. But their area must be strictly identical, only then the passage of air flows will be normal. Recommendation: it is better to replace the upper grille with a pipe rising above the roof. In this case, the overall efficiency will only increase further. It is advisable to equip the sewage system with a separate ventilation system.

Fan pipes are made of the same materials as the waste discharge riser. To carry them out, the channel provided by the design of the house is used. Important: if the architects did not initially concern themselves with this point, a horizontal outlet into the wall should be used. Since the drain in a private house is small, the passage of odors from the septic tank is also very limited. The inner sides are insulated using roofing felt or bitumen, and the outer sides are lined with 350 mm of clay or a little more.

There are also subtleties when arranging ventilation in houses made of aerated concrete. Often, central channels are made from reliable grades of galvanized steel. Insulating the passages helps prevent the occurrence of condensation. Alternatives to such measures include laying a brick air route or lining with a carefully designed plastic seal. Ventilation of aerated concrete premises is carried out at least 5 times within an hour.

Air ducts can be made from galvanized material, asbestos cement, or plastic with the appropriate characteristics. It is necessary to lay channels in all rooms without exception. The lines used to remove exhaust air merge together in the attic or at ceiling level. In this case, high-quality insulation of their roof outlets is extremely important. For forced ventilation of aerated concrete buildings, pipes with a cross-section of 130 mm are used; natural channels are made from 150 mm pipes.

Experienced builders believe that laying channels inside walls is impractical. In this case, you may encounter the appearance of condensation and a decrease in the thermal characteristics of the home. In aerated concrete houses, special shafts or partitions are used to place drainage and underwater channels, separating the internal walls. The best solution is to line it with a plastic part and cut out holes of the required size.

Arranging air circulation in built-in rooms

But simply supplying portions of fresh air from the outside is not enough - both in a wooden house and in a structure made of aerated concrete this is true to the same extent. After all, if freshness touches only the immediate conclusion and does not go further, all meaning will be lost. Ventilation must also ensure the circulation of air masses. For a cold attic in the classical scheme, an adjustable system is required, in which the rafters and sheathing are not closed. If this approach is not satisfactory, you need to use cladding with gaps through which gas will move freely and unrestrictedly.

Ondulin and slate should be laid without the use of films that hinder the movement of air or water vapor. They will also pass through metal tiles well, but you may encounter condensation. Channels for air access on a gable roof are made in the gables. For tight junctions and lining, as well as for the manufacture of pediments made of stone, you will have to prepare holes in the walls. The total area of ​​ventilation ducts on any floor, including the attic, must be at least 0.2% of the total area.

To save money, they install standard grilles (one with adjustment, and the other with the holes facing down). It is imperative to cover the grilles with mosquito nets to ensure that insects do not get inside. This is not the approach required for hip roof ventilation. There, the air input is prepared at the bottom (in the filing), and for its output a hole is prepared at the very ridge. When using a flexible roof, we recommend a turtle-type valve or a ridge with a ventilation function.

There is a fairly widespread opinion that attic ventilation leads to loss of warm air. In reality, such cases occur only through the fault of unprofessional builders or designers. They start such a myth in order to justify their own mistakes and shortcomings in their work. Ventilating systems must be of increased strength, because otherwise they will not withstand the resulting loads. It is recommended to bring the holes as close to the ridge as possible.

It is allowed to install continuous soffits under the eaves. But if such products are installed, they must be equipped with a thin mesh (plastic or aluminum to prevent corrosion). Supply components must be installed in the cleanest place possible. The distance from the suction equipment to the exhaust fan should be at least 8 m. Installing a recuperator is very useful.

When the design of a private house provides for the organization of a ground floor (basement), it is necessary to consider equipping its walls with openings for natural air exchange. This takes into account:

composition and mechanical structure of the soil;

relief of the territory;

prevailing wind directions;

depth of foundation and its type;

mode of use;

groundwater height.

According to professionals, 1 hole should be per 2-3 m of wall. Several more of them are made when construction is carried out in a lowland. If there is a clear lack of ventilation, an additional supply and exhaust system is used. Floor ventilation is very important, sometimes even more important than basement ventilation. If it is not provided, even the strongest and most beautiful boards will quickly be destroyed by mold and other fungi.

Air is blown through the underground space through holes made in the foundation. Pipes working for inflow are laid there. They try to bring them as close as possible to the hood; if this is not possible, simultaneously increase the diameter of the inlet hole. If during the first months of using the home the ventilation proves to be insufficiently effective, additional holes have to be punched. But it is much easier and better to do everything properly when pouring a concrete base.

For a person to live comfortably in the house, a sufficient amount of oxygen is required. Spending a long time in an unventilated room leads to drowsiness, fatigue, and in the case of a regular lack of fresh air, even serious diseases of the respiratory and circulatory systems. Installing natural ventilation systems in a private house or apartment will help avoid such negative phenomena.

Operating principle

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Our ancestors were much less concerned about the ventilation of residential premises. Wooden windows with loosely fitting glass and not very airtight doors provided sufficient natural ventilation without any additional devices. Openings for the influx and exhaust of exhaust air were equipped only in basements and cellars.

With the advent of modern finishing materials and plastic windows on the construction market, the issue of providing ventilation for residential premises has become more acute. The absence of the slightest cracks in houses has led to the appearance of condensation and stale air. If you begin to notice that there is an excess of them in the house, and staying indoors for a long time leads to discomfort, it’s time to take care of natural (and in some cases artificial) ventilation.

How to make “correct” natural ventilation in a private house? When designing such a system, it is very important to understand how it works. After all, air circulation will depend only on the correctness of the calculations. The slightest mistake will be enough to create stagnation of air masses.

Natural ventilation in rooms operates due to pressure drop. Wherein:

• air must be provided with free passage throughout the house; For proper distribution of air flows, it is advisable to consider the location of rooms and interior partitions at the construction stage

Advantages and disadvantages

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We list the main advantages of such devices:

• warm air only rises; the cold one is at the bottom (it moves in the direction where the pressure is lower, that is, towards the ceiling, where the warm air is less dense)
• in winter, due to the difference in temperature (and therefore pressure), ventilation functions better
• air must be provided with free passage throughout the house; For proper distribution of air flows, it is advisable to consider the location of rooms and interior partitions at the construction stage

Although ventilation systems have many disadvantages, they can be minimized with proper and thoughtful installation. Its disadvantages include:

• insufficient air flow in summer, when temperature differences indoors and outdoors, especially in the absence of wind, are insignificant; In this case, regular ventilation of the house with open windows and doors will help.
• the presence of drafts in the cold season; Air intake in winter can be slightly reduced by adjusting the ventilation valve; Please also note that in “clean” rooms there should only be an inlet opening; if you install a hood here, you will only get a draft and significant heat loss; air must pass through all rooms
• under certain conditions (for example, a change in wind direction or indoor temperatures lower than outside), ventilation may begin to work in the opposite direction: the intake of air masses begins from the hood; but such a phenomenon is possible only if there is an insufficient number of holes for air flow
• in low-rise buildings, due to insufficient height difference, natural exhaust may work poorly, so the air duct should be raised to a sufficient height above the ridge

Natural ventilation will probably not be enough only if the house is located in a polluted area. In this case, forced exhaust systems with multi-stage filtration are used. Their installation is also required for large premises.

It is highly undesirable to use plastic pipes for air ducts. Dust will accumulate in them, interfering with the normal passage of air. Plus, in windy weather the air ducts will make noise. Therefore, it is better to use special antistatic pipes for their installation.

System performance calculation

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It is easier to calculate the diameter and length of air ducts using an online calculator. But you still need to know the principle of calculations to avoid mistakes.

All rooms in the house are conventionally divided into "dirty", requiring more intensive ventilation (kitchen, toilet, bathroom, laundry room, etc.) and residential "clean". According to SNiP, the air in “dirty” rooms must be renewed at a speed of 60 cubic meters. m per hour. If there is a gas stove in the kitchen, the update rate is increased to 100 cubic meters. For bathrooms this figure is slightly lower - 25 cubic meters. m, and for laundries it is 90 cubic meters. m per hour.

In “dirty” rooms, forced ventilation is used. For this purpose, a separate galvanized steel channel is provided in the kitchen, running vertically, without elbows. It is allowed to combine it only with the bathroom ventilation duct.

For “clean” rooms (living rooms and corridors) ventilation is reduced to 3 cubic meters. m per hour. For pantries, 0.5 cubic meters is enough. It remains to calculate how much air per hour needs to be removed from these rooms.

There is another method in which air exchange is calculated depending on the number of people living in the house. The norm is considered to be an influx of fresh air of about 30 cubic meters. m per hour per person. In the southern regions, it is better to increase this figure to 40. For the northern regions, where the air density is lower, 20 cubic meters will be enough. m. To the received amount (based on the number of residents) you need to add another 30 cubic meters. m for the kitchen.

Types of natural ventilation

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To ensure normal air exchange in large areas, a single air duct will not be enough.

There should be several ventilation systems:

1. The installation of natural ventilation in a private house is impossible without air flow. The intake of air masses should begin from the cleanest (living) premises - the living room or bedroom. In order for the supply air to warm up better, the openings for it should be located near a heating radiator or other heating device
2. Fresh air should flow throughout the house. Its output must be provided in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet
3. Exhaust pipes should rise above the roof by at least 1.5 m. This will provide stronger draft
4. A separate forced-air hood connected to a vertical duct is installed in the kitchen. She will take on part of the load. It is also advisable to install forced exhaust in the shower or bathroom
5. You can replace supply ventilation holes installed in the walls with window valves

Supply holes in the walls

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In order not to violate the tightness of the windows, you can provide a supply hood directly in the walls of the premises. Let us describe this process in detail:

1. The flow of natural ventilation in a private house (see photo) can be ensured using through holes. A pipe of the required diameter will be inserted into them. To drain condensate, it is laid with a slight slope. To protect against debris, a grill is attached to the end of the pipe.
2. The height of the inlet opening is 2.0-2.5 m from the floor. In this case, cold air will mix with warm air rising from the radiators. To warm up the cold air as quickly as possible, it is allowed to locate the holes under the window sill, in close proximity to the radiators
3. On the opposite side of the pipe, on the room side, a valve of a special design is attached, allowing air intake and regulating the intensity of its supply.
   

   Ventilation ducts installed in windows

   The latest models of double-glazed windows are already equipped with supply valves. If they are not there, you can actually install them yourself. It is more convenient if such valves are equipped with air flow regulators:

   1. To install natural ventilation in the windows of a private house or apartment, it is easier to purchase products that are mounted in grooves for the seal, without drilling the plastic. The kit includes the valve itself, fasteners and seal pieces
   2. We open the sash and make markings in its upper part. Cut out a part of the seal equal in size to the length of the valve
   3. Insert dowels on both sides of the resulting hole. We fix the third dowel in the center
   4. A self-adhesive film is glued over the valve. We delete it
   5. We attach the valve to the sash so that the holes align with the already installed dowels. Press it tightly against the sash
   6. We screw self-tapping screws into the dowels
   7. We put a new seal in the groove of the sash
   8. We measure the area on the window frame that will come into contact with the valve when closing the window
   9. We make cuts on its seal on both sides
   10. We remove this part of the seal, replacing it with a thinner one included in the product package. Thus, we made a gap through which fresh air will enter the room.
   11. In the future, you can cover it using the valve slider