How to use one greenhouse correctly. Making the most of the greenhouse

Many people believe that it is better to install a greenhouse in the spring, when it is needed. By postponing installation until spring, you are doing so because the majority of gardeners in our country are doing so. Therefore, in the spring there is a queue, you have to wait a long time, and at this time every day is expensive, because the seedlings outgrow, and there is no way to plant them in the ground due to probable frosts. Some people have to wait until June for installation, when there is practically no need for a greenhouse.

47.Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse. Detailed description.

Reviews:

Tanya Ionova writes: Tanya, today I watched the video I missed with pleasure and I have a question about strawberries, were they in the greenhouse all winter?

Vegetable garden + writes: Wonderful! Detailed, clear and without unnecessary words... in Russian!!! I speak like a mathematician..)))

Sasha Safonov writes: Thank you, everything is great!

How to make a piggy bank and garden figurines. Your own gold mine. writes: Thank you. I saw a lot of useful things for myself.

IN THE GARDEN AND AT HOME writes: Detailed video. I also already planted tomatoes. Thank you

1. There is practically no expectation for you; you can choose any day that is lucky for you. 2. At this time, there are practically no plants left in the garden and you will not be afraid that during installation the plantings around the greenhouse will not be trampled for you. 3. In early spring, the earth in the installed greenhouse begins to warm up earlier, which means you can start using the greenhouse earlier. 4. If you postpone the installation of a greenhouse until the spring, you risk that the cost of it may rise, because in the spring, at the beginning of the construction season, prices for metal and polycarbonate usually begin to rise, and therefore for greenhouses. how to position the greenhouse correctly?

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Of the 3 above-mentioned coatings, the last one is in the lead. And this is no coincidence; in hot weather, a greenhouse with at least some covering should be ventilated to avoid overheating of the plants. During night frosts, glass and film may not save the planted seedlings, but cellular polycarbonate will probably cope with this task due to its own cellular structure, which is 1.5 times better at retaining heat. In addition, cellular polycarbonate is 20 times stronger than glass, and its light transmission is virtually the same.

The disadvantage of cellular polycarbonate is its deterioration under the influence of the sun. To extend the service life of this material and maintain quality characteristics, manufacturers who care about consumers and their reputation apply UV protection (protection against UV radiation) to the outside of the sheets. It is thanks to this that the service life of cellular polycarbonate is significantly increased. This is confirmed by test reports from manufacturing plants based in specialized laboratories.

Dream greenhouse! How and from what to make it.

Reviews:

Zhenya Dmitriev writes: horizontally in carbonate is not dangerous?

Sergey K writes: High walls, in general in a greenhouse such a height is useless, but it’s normal. I welded my own greenhouse, it turned out to be 20k, 3m*8m, the house has a total height at the ridge of 3m.

Anton Tyunyaea writes: I really like it

Artem Moskvin writes: Excellent report, thank you Julia!!))

Zhenya Dmitriev writes: thank you.ex. greenhouse! :)

We collect mustard for salad from the second half of April. There is also enough for our table and for treating our neighbors. In the middle of May, the mustard is already blooming, and I pull it out, chop it up and again loosen the soil with a Strizh flat-cutter, covering it with green fertilizer. Then I water the soil with a solution of Baikal EM (for better rotting) and plant the main crops.

During the planting process, you need to take care of watering, since a lack of moisture can lead to blossom end rot, and overmoistening can lead to the death of the roots. Tomatoes in a greenhouse should be watered only at the root, so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of 15 centimeters. Plants should not be exposed to splashes or drops of water - they spread all kinds of infections.

Another condition for properly growing tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse is their feeding. Fertilizers must be applied when ovaries form on the first clusters. For the first feeding, potassium monophosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) is ideal. It is not recommended to apply nitrogen fertilizers at this time of ripening. The next feeding should be carried out after 7-10 days with a solution of grade A or A1 (approximately 45-47 grams per 10 liters of water).

Three varieties of pepper grew in one bed: Black Beauty, Snegirek, and Zdorovye. At a height of 0.8-1 m from the soil, I pull the rope and cover the seedlings with spunbond. The pepper plants tolerated the unexpected frost well and produced an excellent harvest. The Snegirek variety turned out to be the best, in my opinion, both in terms of yield and beauty of fruits.

After harvesting in October, I remove plant debris (I cut off the stems with pruning shears), and the roots are perfectly cut with Swift. I wash the film from the inside of the greenhouse with a solution of copper sulfate from a watering can. And again I sow white mustard. But last fall I sowed it late, and it only grew 10 cm. I added more lupine and dug everything up. The bed was watered with a solution of phytosporin. In the greenhouse, clematis rooted in the summer under peppers and Bogatyr parsley remained to overwinter for early greens.

Fumigating the greenhouse with a sulfur smoke bomb

Reviews:

Murzik White writes: I used the same saber to fumigate the cellar, but the wick burned like a match, although according to the instructions it should smolder

Karata Takara writes: according to the norm for such a greenhouse you need about 8 such checkers

peter illi writes: cool thing - sulfur for storing sushi, you put the cases from the frame on top of the empty case, plate or bluetse, set fire to a piece of sulfur, close the lid and the sushi will not be eaten by moths

Crete Crete writes: can she treat the house?

Sergey Nikitin writes: it’s easier to wash with Beleznaya

Why is it good to install a greenhouse in the fall?

1.You almost don’t have to wait, you can choose any day convenient for you.
2. At this time, there are almost no plants left in the garden and you don’t have to worry that during installation the plantings around the greenhouse will not be trampled.
3. In early spring, the soil in the installed greenhouse begins to warm up earlier, which means you can start using the greenhouse earlier.
4. If you postpone installing a greenhouse until the spring, you risk that the price for it may rise, since in the spring, at the beginning of the construction season, prices for metal and polycarbonate, and therefore for greenhouses, usually begin to rise.

how to position the greenhouse correctly?

First of all, the greenhouse should be located in a well-lit place. Sunlight should shine on it as long as possible. It is best if the greenhouse is located with its side facing south, since the side surface area is larger than the end area. You should not locate the greenhouse if it is a gable or arched one, close to buildings or a fence. In winter, this will prevent snow from melting and can lead to destruction of the greenhouse. And also, a large mass of snow next to your greenhouse in the spring will melt for a long time, cooling the soil and preventing it from drying out.

What maintenance is needed in winter?

The soil is populated with a variety of microorganisms, both harmful to your plants and beneficial. The soil in the greenhouse in winter is not covered with snow and freezes heavily. This disrupts the biological balance and after a few years can lead to loss of soil fertility. Therefore, we recommend adding snow to the greenhouse in winter. In the spring it will melt very quickly, much earlier than on open ground, but in winter it will not allow the soil to freeze deeply.

What maintenance is required in the winter?

We do not install greenhouses with weak frames. Therefore, snow should be removed from our greenhouses only in exceptional cases. It's best to just knock on the polycarbonate from the inside with your fist. Good polycarbonate, and we use only proven brands, will not cause harm at temperatures down to – 30. It is not recommended to scrape off snow or ice from the outside with hard objects. You can scratch the polycarbonate and thereby reduce its light transmission and disrupt ultraviolet protection.

How to balance the difference between night and day temperatures?

If you want to lengthen the growing season and use your greenhouse in both early spring and late autumn (which is what a greenhouse is for), then the problem of night frosts will definitely confront you. During the day on a sunny day, the temperature in the greenhouse, even with negative outside temperatures, can reach 20 or even 30 degrees, and at night drop to negative values. Therefore, I would like to stock up on warmth during the day for a cold night. To do this, you need to bring water into the greenhouse. Water is an excellent coolant and retains a lot of heat. Place a metal barrel of water in the greenhouse or, better yet, place plastic water bottles between the plants. Some of our clients dig them along the path and get neat borders and a heat accumulator.

with what and how to shade a greenhouse in hot weather?

On a hot summer day, when the temperature outside exceeds 30 degrees, and the sunlight makes the heat deadly, the temperature inside the greenhouse can go over 50 degrees. This can lead to the death of plants. Therefore, there is a desire to shade the greenhouse. This can be done in many ways. You can throw some kind of covering material, such as gauze, over the greenhouse and attach the edges to the ground so that it does not blow away in the wind. You can fix such material inside. But there is a simpler and more original method of shading, which we spotted in Turkey. You need to “whiten” the greenhouse by spraying it with chalk solutions. But you should not use any substances that can damage polycarbonate. When the heat subsides, you can clean your greenhouse by spraying it with a hose.

Why and how to use tables in a greenhouse?

A table in a greenhouse not only allows you to work more conveniently, but also allows you to bring plants into the greenhouse earlier. In the spring, when the seedlings outgrow and the boxes have taken up all the window sills, I want to plant the plants in a greenhouse. But the ground there is still cold; at night the temperature drops below zero. If you put a heater in a greenhouse, it “burns” the seedlings and does not warm the soil.
Tables in a greenhouse solve all these problems. If the boxes with seedlings are on the tables and the heater is on the floor, then the warm air heats the soil much more efficiently, and the plants are far from the hot air coming out of the heater. In addition, the higher the plants are, the warmer the layer of air they are in. This means you can heat the greenhouse less.
The time will come when you will transplant the seedlings from the boxes into the ground, and disassemble the tables and take them out of the greenhouse until autumn or next spring.

When and why should you till the soil after harvesting in a greenhouse?

Preparation of the greenhouse begins in the fall. After the last harvest, you need to thoroughly clean the greenhouse of plant debris, remove the top 5 cm of soil, which contains a large number of pests and diseases. Remove the old twine (it is better to burn the garter twine). Plant residues can be placed in compost heaps, but it is better to burn them. The greenhouse is disinfected by burning a sulfur bomb. Autumn digging of the soil to a depth of 25-30cm. In autumn it is necessary to apply organic fertilizers - humus or manure - 10-20 kg/m2. In the absence of organic fertilizers, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers: simple superphosphate - 20 g/m2. potassium sulfate - 25-30g/m2. We do not recommend treating the soil with pesticides.

Preparing soil mixture for seedlings!

Soil for seedlings is prepared in several ways:
1. Sifted peat + sawdust in a ratio of 3:1, the finished mixture is moistened with Kemira combi solution
at the rate of 20g per 10l of water.
2. Field (turf soil) + peat + sand in a ratio of 2:1:1.
Before sowing, add Kemira-universal fertilizer 50g/10l of soil to the prepared mixture
or nitroammophoska 40 g/10 l of soil, mix everything thoroughly.
3. Field (turf soil) + humus + sawdust, in a ratio of 2:1:1.
Before use, the soil must be disinfected by prolonged freezing.
It is not recommended to use soil from coniferous forests for growing seedlings.

favorable time for watering plants in the greenhouse!

It is best to water plants in a greenhouse in the evening or early morning. Watering during the hottest part of the day can cause plant burns. However, it is still advisable to water the plants in the morning; it is better not to water at night, because... this contributes to the emergence of diseases, in particular peronosporosis, or downy mildew.
At low daytime temperatures, cucumbers can be watered during the day, around twelve o’clock. By this time the water will heat up. It is best to keep the container in a greenhouse.
It is also better to water tomatoes in the morning; they do not require as warm water as cucumbers. Watering in the morning will not cause excessive moisture overnight. But it is harmful - all sorts of rot can occur.
Pepper does not tolerate dry soil, but also does not like waterlogging. It is better to water it in the morning, also with warm water. This is especially useful if the nights are cold.
When the head of cabbage begins to curl, the cabbage needs a lot of water. During this period, she needs three buckets per day. Excess moisture is dangerous - the root system can rot.
If you grow plants in unamended soil, they dry out faster and need more water. The larger and older a plant gets, the more water it needs compared to younger, more immature plants. During the dormant period in January and February, your plants need less water.

In order for a greenhouse made of polycarbonate to please you with its large harvest and serve for many years, you need to regularly care for it. Greenhouses made of polycarbonate sheets have proven themselves to be the least demanding to maintain and the most convenient to operate, which are significantly superior to glass and film greenhouses in their reliability, strength and durability. But you also need to take care of such greenhouses and know certain operating rules.

Rules for the operation of greenhouses and polycarbonate

• A polycarbonate greenhouse can be washed with plain water using detergents that contain non-aggressive components. The use of abrasive cleaners is not allowed, as they can destroy the thin film that protects the polycarbonate from the penetration of UV rays.

• Since polycarbonate is a polymeric organic compound, it does not tolerate high temperatures and open fire. Therefore, it is strictly forbidden to light a fire near the greenhouse. In addition, when installing heating in a greenhouse, you need to place the main heat source in a brick wall, built in advance.

• If you do not plan to use the greenhouse in the winter, it is best to remove the polycarbonate sheets from the greenhouse and store them indoors until spring.

• Once a year, with the onset of autumn, it is imperative to carry out liquid or gas disinfection of the entire greenhouse.

How to prepare a greenhouse for winter

If you want to be able to get a large and tasty harvest next year, with the onset of cold autumn days, prepare the greenhouse before the onset of the new season.

To know how to prepare a greenhouse for the next season, you need to adhere to the basic rules presented below:

As you may have noticed, caring for a polycarbonate greenhouse does not require much maintenance from you. By taking a little time to care for your greenhouse, you will help extend its life and it will serve you for many years.

Experience in operating polycarbonate greenhouses

From the newsletters of the site "Our Dacha":

• The very idea of ​​using cellular polycarbonate in greenhouses and greenhouses is not bad. But when purchasing, I advise you to pay special attention to the strength of the frame. Our greenhouse, purchased from the Volya company, did not survive last winter - the frame was too flimsy, a real scam at a considerable price.

• I have had a greenhouse for 4 years now, there are no words, only emotions. This year I made and covered the gazebo with carbonate. I like!

• What are the disadvantages? Material with low thermal conductivity, high light transmittance, high strength characteristics (frames were mentioned above). The only thing is that when insulating with additional sealants, it is necessary to use neutral silicone, and also to separate from the base of the frame or also with rubber-bitumen sealants/ rubber-bitumen (we tested it ourselves at a sponsored enterprise when they replaced the glazing of a garage: an additional adhesive layer and replacement of rubber), or rubber tires, and self-tapping screws with rubber seals.

• arcs made of plastic water pipes for 20 and film have cost a penny for 3 years.

• The main disadvantage is vandalism. BUT! If the dacha is in a safe place, then install a greenhouse and don’t hesitate. My friends have them on their personal plots and they are very pleased with the greenhouses.

• Ventilation is not necessary if at the top along the ridge of the roof of the greenhouse, no matter glass or film, leave a longitudinal hole 3-4 cm wide when sewing. Superheated air will exit along the slopes of the roof creating a suction from the lower layers of cold air, which again heats up above and convects, blowing plants: fungi and molds don’t like it. If a little rain gets into the hole, it will fall on the path without burning the plants with sulfuric acid.
  Surprisingly good material: I can’t find information about carcinogenicity studies anywhere.

• I agree with you, greenhouses are really great. The first year we planted 3x6 tomatoes, the harvest exceeded all expectations. The second year we installed a 3x4 greenhouse for cucumbers, and the harvest was excellent. very pleased. Both greenhouses have a frame made of 20x20 square steel pipe, painted with polymer paint, and installed on a concrete foundation. We live in Transbaikalia, winds in the spring gust up to 30 m/sec, but the greenhouse is at least okay. One drawback: even thick polycarbonate can be penetrated by large hail. But so far God has had mercy on us.

• 4mm polycarbonate is quite reliable and cheaper than other thicknesses. So, if you want to buy a greenhouse, I advise you to buy polycarbonate separately and metal separately. If it is possible to weld the frame, then be sure to use it, and if not, then use bolts. I attached the polycarbonate sheets to the frame with aluminum rivets and always placed galvanized iron washers under the head of the rivet - a very reliable fastener. I recommend!

• Polycarbonate is very critical to UV radiation, it itself is destroyed under the influence of UV, to prevent this, a UV stabilizing layer is applied to one of the sides by spraying (on the sheet it should be written in Russian effective protection on this side of it towards the sun and mount otherwise after a year the polycarbonate it will begin to become cloudy, and then it will crumble like adhesive tape lying in the sun (the interatomic bonds are destroyed) Chinese and Borex. It’s also better not to take it without a name, it comes without a protective layer (the fact that the UV stabilizer is in the mass is nonsense and deception of the consumer )

• The main thing is not to buy greenhouses whose frame is a cheap profile, such as galvanized sheet. Excellent greenhouses if the frame is made of a square tubular profile with a thick wall. Then the greenhouse will be durable

• 1. This year I installed a greenhouse made of polycarbonate 3 x 6. Metal profile. 2 doors, 2 windows. Beautiful, transparent, it even seems to sparkle in the sun. BUT... Even with the windows open at a wide range of temperatures (night-day), I have more than once discovered that the tomatoes are all in drops, as if they had been sprinkled generously! Sometimes you stand in a greenhouse, and there is condensation on top, like a little rain... I think that it is advisable to install another door or window in the middle of the greenhouse. Of course, it would be nice to install a self-opening system, but I don’t know how! 2. As for the break in the greenhouse, either the profile is not metal or the installers installed something incorrectly. When they installed it, they advised me this: there were no cases of breaks or collapses in our greenhouses (they didn’t complain), but to make sure and as a precaution for the winter, put one or two supports and be sure (!!!) to leave both windows open for the winter, because when completely closed, the temperature inside may be higher than outside, which means the snow melts at times, then freezes again. This means that the ice roof grows and grows, the ceiling cannot withstand it and sag (collapses)...

• We have been using this greenhouse for three years and are very pleased. In extreme heat, I pulled the thinnest agrospan under the ceiling and the leaves of the plants did not wither or burn. We have two doors with windows. Last year they increased it further, it was 3 by 6, now it’s 3 by 10 and I want to put it separately, because The growing conditions for cucumbers, peppers and tomatoes are different. Beauty, no diseases, in spring and autumn we disinfect the greenhouse, spill the soil with phytosporin and fertilize it.

• My husband himself made such a greenhouse (I call it a hangar, 15m by 4m and a height of 3m) and the harvest is amazing. I put it on a poured foundation - no hurricane blew it away (like the neighbors), and even when there is snow around, the ground in it is already warming up well) We are very pleased. Don’t count on buying it - just to sell it to them.....

• Try using a greenhouse to produce fertilizer in the winter. Load up with organics. Spray with microbiological fertilizer. I like Baikal-EM. When broken down, organic matter releases heat and it is quite enough to melt the snow.

• For ventilation, I have doors on both sides of the greenhouse and windows above the doors. Inside the greenhouse, provide a corner or a thin pipe for tying cucumbers, for example, along the entire length (on both sides).

Hello, dear friends!

Installation and installation of a greenhouse on a personal plot is a costly and rather troublesome task. And if money and effort are already invested in this enterprise, then it is very important to get the maximum return from the new building. This will largely depend on how the vegetable crops will be planted in the greenhouse. So let's talk about rational use of greenhouses in terms of plant arrangement.

We are, of course, not at all talking about tomatoes standing in a greenhouse “in formation,” so to speak, “shoulder to shoulder.” All norms for planting plants per 1 m? It is imperative to observe, here you can only deceive yourself. But it is possible to plant plants depending on their height and ripening time.

So, let's start with the cardinal directions. On the south side in the greenhouse stands plant pepper, as this plant is relatively low-growing. In this case, pepper bushes can be planted according to the following scheme: 5 plants per 1 m², namely four in the corners and one in the middle. Pepper bears fruit well if you plant it in pairs in each hole, then at 1 m? 10 plants will be placed. There will be no harm, since there will be more than enough sunlight on the south side.

To the north of the pepper you can place tomatoes. Since the bushes of these greenhouse vegetable crops are usually tall, we strictly adhere to planting standards: 4 plants per 1 m2. For each tomato we make a separate hole.

And finally, along the northern side of the greenhouse, cucumbers are placed as the tallest vegetable crop; they can be sown in one long longitudinal hole (so that water does not leak out later when watering), and no more than 1 seed every 10 cm.

The main population is housed in the greenhouse for a long time. But while it gets stronger and grows, there will be empty space in the greenhouse for a month between the still short plants. It is also advisable to use it, that is, to temporarily plant early-ripening vegetable crops. So between the tomatoes, which still have a lot of space, you can make long longitudinal holes and sow radishes in them. And along the hole with cucumbers, make another parallel longitudinal hole for different salads. If you are closely involved in growing seedlings, then all the remaining empty spaces can also be turned into small holes and sow seedlings of late cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, etc. in them. In a month, the radishes and lettuce will be used, and the seedlings will be planted in open ground, and nothing will interfere with the permanent residents of the greenhouse developing and bearing fruit.

Use the greenhouse space on your garden plot rationally and optimally and get the maximum return! Plant more - you will harvest more! See you!