Autumn chores. Autumn chores in the garden

Winter is just around the corner, and there is still enough work on the plot. But experienced gardeners and gardeners know that your harvest next year depends on how you do your autumn work in the garden.

• You can not pick berries and fruits from trees after rain or dew. Fruits plucked from trees are best immediately cooled to a temperature of 4-6 ° C, otherwise they quickly overripe and deteriorate. Treat the walls of the room in which you will store the harvested crop with a solution of formaldehyde or soda, this will prevent the appearance of mold fungus.
• Old branches and root shoots should be removed. In the fall, it's time to make a shaping or rejuvenating pruning.
• Raspberry stalks that no longer bear fruit are cut at ground level. Weak blackcurrants need to remove weak and old shoots (also at ground level). White and red currants, on the other hand, produce berries on old branches. Remove low-hanging, old shoots from gooseberries.

• Heat-loving fruit trees (for example, peach and apricot) shelter for the winter.
• Carefully treat the inner surface of the hollows with a solution of 10% iron or 5% copper sulfate solution. The hole in the hollow is filled with broken bricks or pebbles, then this place is cemented and covered with oil paint.
• Use wire brushes or scrapers to remove the diseased bark from the trees (lay a film under the tree), burn the resulting garbage outside the garden. If there are wounds on the tree, lubricate them with garden pitch. Choose a day with dry and calm weather, put on goggles and a bandage and treat large branches and boles with a solution of iron sulfate (5%). This will save you from problems with pests and diseases.
• Make circles of glue around fruit trees to keep moth larvae from crawling onto the trees. Glue recipe: pine resin 10 parts, vaseline 1.5 parts, rosin 1.2 parts. Use trapping belts on tree trunks to catch moths (in September, they lay their eggs on the bark). At the end of November, these simple devices are removed, the trunks are whitewashed, and the trunks are wrapped with coniferous branches and paper.
• For young trees, make protection from mice. To do this, tie tree trunks with burlap, then wrap with roofing material and aluminum wire. Top the roofing material with lime. An excellent material for strapping is fiberglass or old nylon tights (the bark does not melt under them, and mice never gnaw at such a harness).
• So that the trees do not freeze in winter, carry out water-charging watering of the trees.

The garden loves cleanliness and order, in the fall you need to prepare it for cold and frost.

Make grooves 15-10 cm deep around the tree trunk (every 80 cm). It is necessary to water at the rate of 60 l / m² for an adult apple tree, 40 l / m² for cherries, plums and a young apple tree. At the last watering, it is good to apply mineral fertilizers, after which the grooves are covered with earth.

Trouble in the garden

• Plants with signs of disease and traces of pests should be buried deep outside the garden or burned.
• Digging a garden in the fall or not is up to you, but all plant debris from the site must be removed.
• On the vacated beds, you can sow cilantro, radish, dill. A covering film will save these crops from the first night frosts.
• In the greenhouse, remove the top layer of earth (5 cm), mix it with compost and mineral fertilizers, pour it into the compost pit.
• Peat, old fallen leaves, sawdust will protect the root system of plants from severe frosts. So strawberries are covered with a continuous layer (about 10 cm), and currant bushes are mulched within a radius of 80 cm.
• As a rule, autumn work in the garden is carried out, taking care of the future harvest. So, old strawberry leaves are cut off, nitroammophoska is introduced into the soil (2.5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). In order to have more flower buds next year, in early September, the soil is fertilized with urea (30 g per 10 liters of water). Plants are treated for fungal diseases with phytosporin, for powdery mildew with colloidal sulfur, for rot and spotting with copper oxychloride.

Do not forget about such an important agricultural technique as mulching.

• Collect leaves and old fallen fruits and take them outside the site.
• Plan your garden with crop rotation.
• If the soil in your area is acidic, liming is necessary. Ash is best to fertilize the ground in the spring.

Preparation of cuttings for grafting

These are obligatory and necessary autumn works in the garden. Cuttings for grafting are harvested in November. In healthy trees (apple, pear, stone fruit), cuttings should be cut from the western or southern upper part of the crown (their length is about 40 cm). Then the cuttings are collected in bunches and provided with labels. You need to put the bundles in wet sand or sawdust vertically (immerse them in the sand 2/3 of the length). Small cuttings can also be stored in the refrigerator, after wrapping them with a damp cloth. In a snowy winter, it is convenient to bury the cuttings in the snow on the north side of the house (do not forget to wrap the connected cuttings with roofing material and a rope to protect against mice).

In winter, the cuttings will feel comfortable at 3-5°C, and the labels will help you sort out the species and varieties in the spring.

Autumn work in the flower garden

• In September-October, perennials can be divided and planted. At this time, hyacinths, daffodils, small bulbous plants are planted, which need time to take root. Plant tulips just before frost.
• Autumn varieties of garlic and onions are also planted in September-October. In order to save space, they can be planted in flower beds where roses grow (this will benefit both crops).
• Cover fragile plants just before frost.
• Do not fertilize or prune roses in autumn. Cut only dry branches. Hill roses with soil mixed with gravel or bark.
• After the first frost, dig up the dahlia tubers. They need to be stored in a dry, warm and dark place.

Bright and cheerful autumn flower beds also need care.

For many gardeners and gardeners, autumn work in the country is pleasant chores, gratitude to the land for the harvest. Work in your summer cottage with love and pleasure, and the garden and vegetable garden will reward you a hundredfold for your efforts.

Autumn comes into its own, and summer cares at their summer cottage are already over. But every owner of such a plot knows that September is no less busy month, and you will have to work if you want the dacha to meet you in full combat readiness next year, in the spring.

In September, the harvest season ends, which means that you need to take care of the collection and storage of vegetables, fruits, seeds. You should also properly prepare the soil for wintering.

To do everything right and not miss a single detail, use the tips and recommendations of experienced gardeners, which we will provide in this article.

Autumn work in the garden

The main thing that needs to be done in the garden in the fall is harvesting vegetables, and this should not be delayed. For example, eggplants that have sat out in the beds will be rough and bitter.

1. Pay attention to and sweet peppers. When their fruits reach the size characteristic of the variety, you can safely remove them, even if they seem unripe in color. Leave them to ripen in a dry, bright place, such as a windowsill.
2. Don't let the cucumbers overripe. There are many varieties that do not turn yellow when overripe, but such fruits lose their taste and their skin is very rough. These cucumbers are best left to seed, allowing them to grow to the desired size.
3. Zucchini and zucchini, which you are going to use for food and for conservation, remove from the garden when the size of the fruit is 1/3 of the maximum size. For long-term storage, the fruits must be grown to a state in which the skin becomes hard.
4. Select cabbage for storage especially carefully. Heads of cabbage should not be dry and not wilted, without leaves spoiled by rot. The length of the stump is no more than 3 cm. Before putting it in the basement, wrap each head of cabbage with thick paper, or place it in a plastic bag, releasing all the air from it. This will save the cabbage from the effects of rot in the room.
5. Carrots require especially careful handling when harvesting, as they ripen slowly and their surface is very fragile. Its safety is affected not only by the variety, but also by the soil in which vegetables grow. For example, potassium in the soil in sufficient quantities can provide good keeping quality.

Autumn work in the garden consists not only in harvesting, but also in its safety. Proper storage of vegetables in the basement is especially important. For example, radishes and beets should be stored in the same way as potatoes - in a simple bulk. But for turnips and carrots, small boxes should be prepared, each of which will contain 15-20 root crops. Sprinkle each layer of carrots with a mixture of sand and chalk when laying.

Autumn processing of fruit trees

The September chores of a summer resident include caring for fruit trees.

After the fruits are harvested, but before the leaves fall, spray the crowns of the trees with 5% urea (500 g per 10 liters of water). This will protect your apple and pear trees from

The basic rules for harvesting fruits are as follows:

• It is impossible to collect fruits that are wet from rain or dew;
• As soon as possible, lower the crop after harvesting into the basement: rapid cooling contributes to long-term preservation;
• Select for storage healthy, strong fruits without external damage, with stalks;
• Use a stepladder and a fruit picker to collect fruits from trees.

After all the fruits are removed from the trees, carry out autumn processing of fruit trees, make sanitary pruning. Remove branches with signs of disease, drying and breaking on the ring, and cover the cuts with garden pitch.

Remove props holding large branches and disinfect them before storing.

In late September or early October, do not forget to dig up the soil under berry bushes and fruit trees. This will provide the root system with the necessary moisture and oxygen, and at the same time, it will help to detect and destroy the wintering grounds of rodents and other pests.

If you have a vineyard on your site, then you know that by the end of September the grapes are fully ripe and should be removed from the branches. After that, you need to spray the bushes with a 3% solution of iron sulfate. This will help destroy the fungal infection. Carefully remove the leaves from the vineyard and prune the branches. If autumn is dry and warm, organize your vineyard.

The first decade of September is a great time for planting strawberries and strawberries in pre-prepared beds. On the same days, it is good to harvest and plant cuttings of red currant, and in the second half of September - black. When horizontal layers take root, currants and gooseberries can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Front garden care in autumn

The front garden in autumn is filled with a variety of flowering plants, so it is unusually beautiful. And although the amount of work is now much smaller, caring for the front garden in the fall is very important.

The first thing summer residents do in the front garden is the division and transplantation of perennial flowers.

• In order to prevent from spraying roses. In early September, fertilize roses with potash fertilizers at the rate of 30-40 g per sq. m. Just the right time to plant new bushes.
• Perennials such as astilbes, phloxes and irises need to be propagated by dividing the bushes. First, dig the ground under them and fertilize with compost. By the way, if the plants are still in the flowering period, they should not be divided.
• Loosen the soil around the clematis, water the weeds and water as needed. Especially large bushes can be dug up and divided. They are planted in pre-prepared pits, deepening the stem by 6 cm. Turn the planting around with slats or bricks, lay insulation on top to cover the clematis for the winter.
• Work with dahlias is carried out after the first frost. Cut the stems 4-85 cm, dig up the root tubers and put them away for the winter in a cool, dry place.

If you have a lawn, then it needs aeration. Over the summer, the lawn soil has become very compacted, and this makes it difficult for oxygen to enter the soil, to the grass root system, which negatively affects growth and appearance. Checking the degree of compaction is quite simple. Take a match and drive it into the soil layer. If the match went in easily, then it's okay. If not, then aeration should be carried out: make incisions or holes in the soil with a garden pitchfork or aerator shoes.

Also scarify the lawn, that is, remove all debris and felt, as well as treat with herbicides against the growth of moss, and, if necessary, sow the resulting bald spots with grass.

What trees can be planted in autumn

There are not many varieties of plums that can withstand the climate of the middle zone. In addition, plums have recently been grown in our area. Most often, long-bred varieties of folk selection are used, which are distinguished by frost resistance. Recently, breeders have been developing more and more new varieties that give an excellent harvest even after harsh winters. Plum seedlings are planted in September in an open area in well-loosened soil.

Autumn is also good for planting pears. Young trees need watering only during a drought, since the deep and powerful root system of the pear itself is able to produce water in the required quantities.

How to insulate trees for the winter

In order for the trees to successfully overwinter, they need to be treated with a prophylactic solution. The trunk area needs to be mulched, and small fences should be built around it. This will help your garden to winter well and subsequently delight you with crops.

Before insulating the trunk, water all the weeds near the tree and about 15 cm deep. Treat the trunk and skeletal branches with a copper sulfate solution or fungicide to protect the trunk from bacteria and fungi. One treatment is enough for the whole winter.

Mulching is a very effective method of protecting the soil near a tree from drying out and temperature changes. It helps to retain moisture, reduces the depth of soil freezing in winter, and prevents the growth of weeds.

Mulching material can be of two types: permanent and dynamic.

1. Permanent mulch is gravel, stone chips, glass and other similar materials, usually performing a decorative function, but well protecting the soil from drying out and weeds.
2. Dynamic mulch - peat, ground bark, hay, sawdust, foliage, compost. These materials are introduced every autumn, and significantly improve the properties of the soil, saturating it with useful elements.

Before mulching, treat the trunk circle with a fungicide. After that, fill the mulch with a layer of 10 cm. If you use compost and humus, then the layer should be thinner to avoid rotting. In case of severe frosts, the mulch is covered with spruce branches or a meter layer of snow is poured.

Trunks of young trees should be additionally insulated. Traditionally, materials such as matting, felt, straw, burlap and spruce branches are used for wrapping, or a more modern material - agrofibre. You can put a fence around the trunk, which will protect both from frost and from rodents, for example, hares, which during the winter can damage the bark of a tree. In the spring, the insulation should be removed so that the surface of the trunk does not rot and the process of decay does not begin.

Video about autumn work at their summer cottage

Now your personal plot is completely ready for wintering, and it is not afraid of frost with winds. If you have any questions or additions, leave them in the comments to the article, and we will help you learn even more about how to make the cottage even better.

For those whose plots are not too fertile, experts recommend digging up half of the plot to increase the thickness of the fertile layer and make beds. Be sure to make mineral fertilizers for digging: phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium at the rate of 10 g per 1 sq. meter. The following year, carrots, potatoes, beets, beans, peas, cucumbers, tomatoes, horseradish, and strawberries can be grown on such a bed. Or plant currants.

The second half of the site is dug up to a depth of 30-40 cm, if the site is new or has been abandoned for a long time. At the edge of the site, a furrow is dug 40 cm deep. Nearby, the humus part of the soil is removed to the width of a shovel and dumped to the bottom of the furrow with turf down. The rest of the soil is taken out and poured on top. Compost is introduced, any humus, peat at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 sq. meter.

Compost can be made from fallen leaves. However, experts do not recommend using the leaves of garden trees for its preparation. So on a dry sunny day, you have to take a garden cart, a rake and go to a park or forest.

Fallen leaves contain macro- and microelements. But they act differently. Some stimulate the growth of plants, others make them wither. Harmful to the garden-garden rotted leaves of birch, aspen, oak, cherry, apple, raspberry. Useful are the leaves of elderberry, red and white currant, ash, linden, red-fruited mountain ash, maple and linden.

But the needles of coniferous trees are especially useful. They contain a huge amount of valuable substances that are useful not only for trees, but also for people. It is best to compost the needles together with the leaves of garden trees, mixing the mass thoroughly. Coniferous compost is introduced along with a deoxidizer, which must be bought at the store. If you are going to grow cranberries, lingonberries, blueberries on your plot, then such compost is simply irreplaceable. It should be mixed with peat for these crops.

Leaves for composting are stacked in dug trenches as follows: soil layer, foliage layer. All the weeds that you have collected from your garden are also added to the compost. There are also added peelings from potatoes and other vegetables, eggshells, sleeping tea leaves. If it rains, then nothing else is required. And in dry weather, trenches with leaves need watering.

If possible, manure or bird droppings are added to the water for irrigation. Composting takes two years. After that, the compost is sifted through a grid with large cells. What hasn't rotted is used in the next compost.

Two-year-old compost is used when planting trees, shrubs, vegetables, flowers, both garden and domestic.

Digging the soil is useful because it makes harmful insects hiding in the leaves and in the upper layers of the soil defenseless against the cold and birds.

Berry bushes, perennials in autumn need to be transplanted to a permanent place.

In autumn, ditches for drainage up to 30 cm deep break through. They dig along the edges of the site and in the middle, so that in the spring, due to abundant snowmelt, the water does not melt buildings and plantings, but flows into the ditches.

A vegetable garden needs organic fertilizers, and compost provides them. It improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil, activates the vital activity of useful microelements. More experienced summer gardeners use sideration - plowing in the green mass of lupine, seradella and other annual herbs from the legume family. This method enriches the soil with organic matter, nitrogen and other nutrients. Green manure is especially useful for sandy and low-humus sandy soils.

All annuals are removed in autumn. All leaves, stems and other debris from the flower beds are removed and burned to prevent disease. Half-cut lashes of hybrid tea, polyanthus and miniature roses. Before shelter, the leaves of the roses break off. If this is not done, roses can die from fungal diseases. Weak shoots are also removed.

It is necessary to check the bark of fruit trees well, remove the nests of harmful insects found. Clean and whitewash all damaged and insect-infested areas.

If it is possible to visit the dacha in winter, then you should hang out the feeders and tame the birds. During the winter, they will deal with almost all pests. If this is not possible, then on the site you can leave the stems with boxes of annuals. Birds will eat them with pleasure, and at the same time they will destroy insects.

Before winter, some gardeners, when the soil freezes to a depth of about 2-3 cm, sow the seeds of early radishes, rutabaga, turnips, beets, carrots, parsley, celery, dill. The beds are prepared in advance, making all the necessary fertilizers. Furrows for sowing seeds are made 2.5-3 cm deep and 2-2.5 cm wide. Seeds are sown during the thaw and twice as much as in spring. Some vegetable growers even plant potatoes before winter. But in the zone of our risky farming, it is still not worth planting the entire field with them. And then in the spring you can be left without potatoes, and without seeds ...

It is better to select a small area for the experiment. Make a furrow, put straw manure or dry grass on the bottom. Put the tubers on this litter and cover them with earth. The tubers should be of late varieties, green in the sun and medium-sized. The advantage of this planting is that in the spring you do not need to dig. The tubers, under successful circumstances, will harden, the harvest will be earlier.

And in late autumn, you can treat yourself to assorted autumn vegetables.

Green tomatoes, apples of autumn varieties, carrots, onions, cauliflower, green beans are taken. All this is cleaned, washed, placed in jars and poured with marinade: per liter of water 2 tbsp. spoons of sugar, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of salt, 4 black peppercorns, 4 allspice peas.

All this is boiled for 10 minutes and 5 tbsp. spoons of 5% table vinegar. Bring to a boil and boil for 5 minutes.

Banks are covered with lids, liter ones are sterilized - 10 minutes, two-liter ones - 15 minutes, three-liter ones - 20 minutes. Cork, turn over and leave it until it cools completely.

This is probably one of the most delicious gifts of late autumn.

Dear readers!

Today I offer you some extracts from the magazines about gardening in October. I hope you find something new and interesting in them. Have a nice and fruitful end of the season.

In October, damp, rainy, foggy days alternate with dry and sunny ones. Still pleasing to the eye are the bright colors of the foliage of trees and shrubs. But autumn leaf fall is already beginning, and by the end of the month most of the deciduous trees will be exposed. But coniferous trees and shrubs stand out brighter and more prominently, and on a sunny day it becomes light, transparent and very beautiful in the garden. In addition, it is necessary to prepare the garden for the winter, and therefore - to work.

First decade

In the first decade of the month, dig up gladioli. It is more convenient to dig gladioli without cutting the stems with leaves. Start with early flowering varieties and end with late flowering varieties. Plants obtained from children, dig up last. Corms of gladioli are dug up in dry weather and laid out here for primary drying for several hours before harvesting. In humid weather, move them indoors immediately. Cut stems with leaves to the base. Scatter the corms into boxes or cardboard boxes according to varieties in one or two layers and bring them into a warm room with a temperature of + 20-25 degrees Celsius for pre-drying. After a couple of days, move them for 6-8 days to a warmer place (near heaters) with temperatures up to +35 degrees. Then clean and dry for another month at + 18-20 degrees.
Attention: It is possible to dry planting material - bulbs, corms and tubers - in a dark room.
Start preparing roses for winter: it's not too late to spud bushes, remove unripe buds and tops of shoots.

Cut off the aerial part of perennial herbaceous plants, leaving shoots about 8-10 centimeters long.

Remove apples and pears of late autumn and winter varieties and store them. Fruits packed in boxes for winter storage should not be damaged. They are sprinkled with shavings, preferably alder.

Harvest late white, red, Brussels sprouts, as well as leftover carrots, radishes, beets, and other winter storage root vegetables. So that carrots do not deteriorate for a long time during storage at home, they are laid in layers, sprinkled with dry onion peel.
Continue planting seedlings of berry shrubs and cold hardy ornamental crops, including hedge shrubs. (For example, various varieties of spirea. They are planted after the end of leaf fall). Be sure to cover the near-stem circle with a thick layer of mulch so that the soil cools more slowly and the plant has time to take root.

In order to get a harvest as early as possible next spring, plant a small onion set (up to 1 cm in diameter, a larger one will give arrows in summer). Ridges are made for sowing: the planting depth is 3-4 cm, the distance between the ridges is 20-25 cm, and between the bulbs is 3-4 cm. Plantings are mulched with peat with a layer of 1.5-2 cm and covered with dry leaves. Onion sets can be planted until October 15-20. Make sure that the ridges are well covered with snow in winter.
Dig up, wash and use horseradish rhizomes for homemade preparations.

Planting hyacinths. The deadline for planting them is the beginning of October. In order for the plants to bloom at the same time, all the bulbs are planted at the same depth - 15 cm. For the winter, plantings are covered with dry leaves with a layer of 15 cm.

At the beginning of leaf fall, you can treat trees for fungal diseases and at the same time fertilize with a solution of urea (500-700g per bucket of water) right on the growing and fallen leaves.
Second - third decade.

Dig up the soil in the beds and tree trunks of mature trees and shrubs. Do not break lumps. The top layer of the earth will freeze better, and this will destroy the pests wintering in it.
Store the leek. Cut off the top of the leaves, leaving 20-25 cm, trim the roots to 2 cm, tie into bunches and set in wet sand boxes in the basement.

Until the middle of the month, plant tulip bulbs in prepared soil filled with rotted compost.

Following the gladiolus, dig out the galtonia. This is usually done no earlier than October 15 or after a frost that has damaged the aerial part of the plant. Cut the stem at the base, and dry the bulbs in a cool (15-18 degrees), well-ventilated area for 5-10 days until they dry well. Then remove the dry stumps remaining from the stems, transfer them to an open cardboard box and store at a temperature of + 10-12 degrees Celsius (not in the sun), without falling asleep with anything. Inspect bulbs regularly and remove spoiled bulbs.
At the same time, dig up the acidantera corms.
Cut and discard the stems, and dry the corms for a month at a temperature of +20 degrees.

Mid-October, when the first frosts may already be, is the optimal time for planting fruit trees and shrubs in pre-prepared pits. If cold weather has come, before snow has fallen, the vine is dug in with soil.

Cut off all varieties of clematis that bloom on the shoots of the current year (flowering in July - the first half of August), leaving two knots from ground level, and sprinkle a bucket of humus on each plant. For clematis that bloom on the shoots of both the current and last year (they bloom twice in June and from the beginning of August or even later), cut the stems to a height of one meter from the ground, carefully remove them from the supports and lay them on the ground, laying spruce branches.

In plants with wintering basal leaves, cut low, deepening into a rosette, faded stems and only dried and yellowed leaves - do not touch the green ones. These are the following perennials: bluish aster, geyhera, carnations, gravel, daylily (shorten its leaves), lupine, small-flowered, primrose and pyrethrum.
Cut off the stems of the evening primrose if you haven't done so already, but leave the small rosettes with green leaves that have grown around the bush if you allow this plant to grow. Trim sword-shaped iris leaves to a height of 15 cm from the ground. Do not remove the basal green leaves of the Oriental poppy that have grown in August. After pruning deeply, but so as not to damage the root system, loosen the ground around them and mulch with compost with a layer of up to 5 cm.

In advance, before frost, prepare a bed for winter crops, cut grooves 1 cm deep and place a bucket of earth or peat in a heated room to fall asleep seeds. At this time, alissum, clarkia, calendula, cornflower, sour, nemophila, silene and a number of other species should be sown, which bloom better during winter sowing.

When the frost damages the aerial part of the dahlias, start digging up the root tubers. Plants unravel, cut the stem below the level of hilling (4-5 cm from the root collar). Dig a groove around and gently pry the root tubers with a digging fork. Do not pull on the stem - the roots may break off. Clean them from the ground, cut off small roots, wash with a weak stream from a hose and dry a little in the air.
Cut out the damaged parts by sprinkling cuts with crushed charcoal. Then, to dry, bring it into a cool room with a temperature not higher than +10 degrees for 15-20 days. Dahlias should not be dried in a warm room! Root tubers begin to quickly evaporate moisture, shrivel, and then mummify. Dahlias can be kept in peat or shavings at 3-5 degrees.
Also, after freezing (damaging the aerial part), dig out the tuberous begonia. Cut the stems at the base, and the tubers with roots, without shaking off the ground from them, arrange in a box in one row and put in a cool, dry, ventilated, frost-free room to dry for a month.
In the middle of the month, cut the stems to the base, leaving 2-3 cm stumps in the perennials remaining in the ground for the winter: astilbe, New Belgian aster and other species that do not form a basal rosette of leaves, cornflower, watershed, gaillardia, gypsophila, delphinium, goldenrod, bellflower, coreopsis, lily of the valley, liatris, dashing, lychnis, they say ochaya, monarda, peony, rudbeckia, scabiosa, yarrow, phlox and echinacea.

Cut off the fruiting raspberry shoots, if you did not have time to do this before. Annual shoots can be gently bent to the ground - so that they overwinter better.

Ventilate the basement where vegetables are stored if the outside temperature is above 0 degrees. The optimum storage temperature is +1-4 degrees, humidity 90-95%.

Place the fallen leaves in the compost or, if they are not damp, rake them into heaps and cover with cling film to keep them from getting wet. They can be used to cover roses and other non-hardy plants.

Whitewash the trunks and bases of the skeletal branches - in winter this will prevent sunburn and frostbite.

At the end of the month, cut the roses (except for park and climbing roses - remove their shoots from the support and roll up), including the grafted part of standard roses, to a length of 20-30 cm. Gently bend down to the ground and fix standard roses. Cover the crown. Since spores of pathogens and pests remain in the leaves and shoots, all trimmings are burned. The bushes are spudded to a height of 20-30 cm, and when frosts reach -8 degrees, the roses are covered with spruce branches.

In order to have less work in the spring, you can now dig and fill the pits with fertile soil for planting seedlings in April-May.
Dig up Croxomia as late as possible, because it is at the end of the growing season that its corms actively store nutrients. If there are no severe frosts, do it in the third decade. Cut off the aerial part and dry the corms for a month at a temperature of +15 degrees.

At the end of the month, tie the trunks and bases of the branches of young seedlings with spruce branches, cut raspberry branches or other covering materials - this will protect them from hares and mice.

Sow dill, carrots, parsley, radishes in frozen grooves and cover them with pre-prepared not frozen soil. And you will get the harvest two weeks earlier than with spring sowing. But remember that early vegetables do not last long.

And of course, drain water from outdoor water pipes, barrels and other containers so that frozen water does not tear them. Tidy up the area. Roll up watering hoses, remove from the site everything that can serve as a refuge for mice and wintering pests. Clear the ground and store garden tools. Place poison baits in the basement to prevent mice from chewing on dahlia root tubers and stored vegetables.

Preventive measures to protect plants from pests and pathogens.

After harvesting, currant and gooseberry bushes are thinned out, cutting off excess, diseased or pest-damaged branches at the base. To reduce the infection of the bushes with powdery mildew, cut off the ends of the affected shoots (dried, twisted, blackened). Fruited raspberry shoots are cut at the very base and burned. To protect against codling moths, weevils, it is necessary to remove and burn the trapping belts after the leaves fall, clean the stems from dead bark, whiten the bases of the trunks and skeletal branches with lime mortar and clay. You can apply whitewash materials "Protection" and 13C-511.

In the period after harvest and the beginning of leaf fall, apple trees are sprayed to protect against scab with a 5% solution of urea, stone fruit and berry crops - from pests and diseases with insecticides and fungicides in accordance with the regulations for their use.

Pests:

On the ground. In plant debris on the soil and in its upper layers, the eggs of the ringed silkworm, some leafworms,
scale insects, larvae of false scale insects, young caterpillars of hawthorn, gooseberry moth, apple weevil beetles and others. Most of them are most dangerous in the spring, when these insects attack the buds, flowers and young shoots.

Control measures : autumn deep digging of the site, and especially in the near-trunk circles of trees.

On the branches . In some years, fruit trees are damaged by ringed and gypsy moth caterpillars. The egg-laying of these pests is a dark gray, like a beaded ring, worn on a thin thread.

Control measures: affected branches must be cut and burned, and all visible nests of other pests must be destroyed.

On and under leaves. No less dangerous are also fungal diseases, such as scab.
and powdery mildew of the apple tree, red spot of plum leaves, mildew of grapes, the causative agents of which hibernate on the leaves. In the spring, under favorable conditions, spores of pathogens begin to be thrown out, which infect healthy plants. Spider mites, pear bugs and other insects hide under the leaves.

Control measures: in autumn, it is imperative to collect and burn the leaves or put them in compost heaps and cover them with earth or peat.

On fruits . If shrunken black hard fruits hang on apple trees, these are signs of fruit rot. In the spring, powdery pads of spores will appear on such fruits, which, flying apart, infect healthy trees. The fruits of cherries and other stone fruits are susceptible to moniliosis.

Control measures : diseased fruits must be removed and destroyed.

Winter crops.

With all the advantages of sowing before winter, there are features that you need to know so that there is no disappointment in the spring.

1. Correct sowing time. This should be done not earlier than the onset of a steady decrease in air temperature to 2-3 degrees.

2. Crops are possible only on light, well-cultivated, structured soils. On heavy soils, seeds germinate unfriendly, and plants develop poorly.

For many summer residents, a garden bed is not just a vegetable production machine, but a place shrouded in care and warmth of hardworking hands. Here we create and build a new life, just as when the Lord God created, the difference is only in scale. Also here we exchange energy with plants and help them evolve into higher forms with the help of our body. What is the secret of a rich, environmentally friendly crop in your favorite garden and how to make it...

It has been noticed: neither winter frosts nor spring cold snaps destroy winter crops of radishes, turnips, beets, carrots, parsley, celery, dill. So you have to sow! Start sowing when the soil begins to freeze slightly. In spring, seedlings will appear friendly and even, and the crop ripens two to three weeks earlier. Significantly! The soil needs to be loosened on the ridges before frost. Fill with fertilizers - what is, but it is advisable not to forget about humus and ash. Then you need to do across the ridges ...

Autumn is here, and with it, it's time to harvest potatoes. It is important to have time to dig up the tubers while the weather is dry, since during storage they will be less susceptible to rot, and the presentation will not be affected (the tubers will be clean). In any case, after removing potatoes from the soil, it is undesirable to immediately put them in a storage place. You need to let him lie down a little in a ventilated place so that the skin dries out a little and gets stronger. Room...

After harvesting from the garden, laying it for winter storage, work on the site does not end. You need to prepare cuttings for the spring grafting of your plants, prepare warm beds for a good harvest next year, cover plants for the winter (mulching). Autumn mulching of the soil is the most important agricultural technique. In a winter with little snow, in severe frosts, the mulch will preserve the roots of plants located in the upper soil layer. Mulching is carried out using the following materials: peat, shavings and sawdust ...

Having collected a large crop of vegetables in the summer cottage of the garden, we need to save it in such a way that fresh vegetables would supplement our diet in winter, being a valuable source of vitamins that are so necessary in winter. In winter, each adult family member needs the following amount of vegetables to fully provide the body with useful vitamins: 100 kg. potatoes, 10-12 kg. carrots, 40-50 kg. cabbage, 20-30 kg. tomatoes, 10-12 kg. cucumbers, 3-5 kg. onion, 8-10 kg...

This year we decided to soak apples. However, all the proposed recipes turned out to be inaccessible to us - one or even two components were constantly missing. And then they remembered one rather forgotten and now almost never used method. Now that the apples soaked according to this recipe have already been evaluated by us, I want to offer it to readers. Moreover, soaking the fruits in this way, as they say, is easier than a steamed turnip. We prepare apples for urination in the same way as ...

It's already autumn, which means cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage. Time to harvest, and of course to prepare supplies for the winter. Well, here the housewives show themselves and their housekeeping one hundred percent. Someone sours, someone salts, marinates, and someone just freezes. Each hostess chooses a method that suits and likes her family more. But someone wondered which of the methods is more useful, and which is less. How many pros do they have, and how many cons. Let's...

What an abundance of apples in autumn and how inexpensive they are at this time! But it is very difficult to keep them at home in order to widely use them in winter. The gardener S. V. Krasnokutsky developed the simplest method of canning - the preparation of the product - “apple preparation”. Apples of summer, autumn and early winter varieties are cut with a special device that can be bought at a hardware store or with a knife into slices and the seed chamber is removed. If desired, you can cut off the skin of the fruit. Sliced ​​slices are laid ...

We advise you to start preparing vegetables for storage long before they are harvested and even before sowing. First of all, purchase or grow seeds of maturing varieties on your site. Such vegetables differ from weak-leaved ones in stronger mechanical tissues and dense skin, covered with a wax coating. For example, juicy heads of cabbage varieties Slava 1305, Moscow late 9 are easily damaged and stored only until December, while Amager 611, Zimovka 1474 with coarser and dryish leaves are suitable for ...

In my garden plot, located on the western slope, there are five large-fruited apple trees and the same number of felt cherry bushes. Previously, all these trees were badly damaged by mice, despite different methods of protection. And cherries, in addition, in severe winters, froze up to the level of snow. Finally I found a way to protect against both mice and frost. I plant felt cherries obliquely at an angle of 45 ° and lead the crown in a semi-creeping form. I place them at...

When cuttings, for example, currants, are planted in autumn, they take root much better than when they are planted in spring. However, one circumstance interferes - under the influence of cold in the spring, the cuttings stick out of the soil. And so that they do not dry out, they must be corrected immediately. Very wet soil and inclement weather, and therefore a lot of unnecessary manual labor. But there is a way out - to plant cuttings horizontally or close to this position. To do this, you need to prepare the nursery accordingly. If landing is on...