Do I need to cut off the leaves of the grapes. Preparing grapes for winter and sheltering Is it possible to pick leaves from grapes in summer

In the South, there is no such question: the foliage will either be beaten by the coming frosts in the fall, or it will fly around safely by itself. But in the middle lane, nature has to be helped. To do this, from the end of August, the lower leaves are gradually removed, and the tops are also pinched. All this allows the shoots to ripen better.

Completely foliage can be removed one to two weeks before shelter for the winter. In the South, even if the foliage has not fallen, they do not touch it, burying the vines in the soil along with the foliage. So it is more convenient to press them down with earth, and until spring the foliage will rot and will not cause problems when opening.

How to cut leaves correctly:

  • the operation is carried out with scissors or secateurs, there are even special secateurs on sale designed specifically for removing foliage. They represent something between a pruner and scissors;
  • leave small areas of petioles when pruning leaves. They will then fall off on their own;
  • it is better to cut the leaves in the evening or morning hours;
  • they begin to remove leaves at the end of August, and end at the time of yellowing.

How not to remove leaves:

  • leaves should not be plucked, as this can leave wounds on the vine, into which bacterial cancer penetrates when the vines are covered with earth;
  • it is impossible to cut off leaves affected by diseases, this will weaken an already weak bush;
  • it is better to remove foliage not at once, but gradually.

We remove foliage from the vines, not because it is necessary - in the South this technique is not mandatory, it's just that the vines are better visible and it is easier to prune. In the Middle lane, it must be borne in mind that picking off the foliage will not bring the proper result if stepchildren are not removed, shoots are minted in August, shoots are thinned, vines are tied up ...

But a well-cultivated vineyard even aesthetically benefits from the removal of excess foliage.

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Pruning grapes in the summer is necessary to preserve its strength, so that the bush does not waste its potential on the formation of "unnecessary", fresh shoots. Let's look at the nuances of summer pruning of grape bushes and the recommendations of experienced gardeners. As you know, this culture is characterized by rapid growth, if it is not controlled, then actively growing vines will suck the vitality from the roots. We also need a harvest - juicy, sweet bunches of grapes, so you need to remove extra branches in a timely manner so that all the nutrients rush to the fruits, and not to the shoots.

Summer pruning of grapes - the basis of the future harvest

The main cleaning of the rows is done in the fall, but the summer pruning of the grapes is no less important - it corrects the growth of the vines, balances the balance between fruitful and empty shoots. The harvesting process will also be more comfortable - you will not have to make your way through the thickets for clusters. This process also increases the stamina of the bush, helping it survive the growing season.

If you competently care for young grape bushes in the first years of their life, then lay a good foundation for future abundant fruiting. A frivolous attitude to pruning, for example, to summer (correctional), will have a bad effect on the development of the bush, the quality, and the taste of the berries. In other words, instead of grape abundance, you will get a chaotically overgrown shrub, which, at best, can provide you with shade during the heat.

Multiple fruit arrows near the bush work on the number of clusters, but the quality (taste, size) suffers. Also, empty shoots covered with leaves, but without fruits, thicken the bush - these factors reduce productivity. That is why the most important rule for growing grapes is to maintain balance - an acceptable ratio between the vines.

green pruning grapes

It is noteworthy that for this business growers often do not use garden tools. The specificity of the procedure provides for the manual removal of young processes. In fact, this event is of a corrective nature, it lasts from June to August, that is, almost all summer. If you decide to start growing grapes, be prepared for constant monitoring of the bushes, regular pinching off of stepchildren, breaking out extra shoots.

Removal of the lower processes, photo:

Young shoots begin to be removed from June, while fruiting vines are tied to supporting supports - this is done to evenly distribute weight between empty and fruit branches. At this time stage, the laying of replacement knots is formed, from which new fruitful vines will grow next summer. Pruning grapes in the summer after flowering is the removal of stepchildren - this happens in July. At the same time, the bushes are treated with pesticides and fertilizers are applied. Top dressing provides an improvement in the taste of fruits, and pruning lays the foundation for yields for the current and next year.

Shoots that will yield next year, photo:

In the last month of summer, young branches are minted, this process is somewhat reminiscent of pinching. Thus, the upper part of the shoot is cut off, but the difference is that when chasing, a much larger part of the branch is removed than when pinching. Approximately 14 leaves should remain on the shoot. Also, the minting procedure is carried out much later in time, when the activity of branch growth begins to gradually decrease. When chasing, shoots of fruit arrows, shoots of replacement knots, branches growing from perennial lignified vines are corrected.

The growth of branches after chasing stops, all the vitality of the plant is concentrated in the bunches of grapes and internodes, which are below the cut point. Such pruning of grapes has a positive effect on all parts of the bush, the fruits ripen better, better access of sunlight to branches and clusters is provided. In addition, in August, in order to stimulate the activity of the lower part of the root system, some experienced growers recommend cutting off part of the upper roots.

Summer grape pruning for beginners

Taking into account the above information, it becomes clear that green pruning is carried out constantly: before the flowering of the racemes, after they have faded, during the tying of the clusters. As for the antennae, the procedure for their removal can be carried out every day. They act as a kind of hooks, since the structure of the grapes resembles a liana. If you tie the branches of the bushes to the supports, then the antennae can be completely plucked.

Pinching is done before the onset of the flowering period, in other words, the upper segment of the young branch is removed with the help of fingers. The part of the shoot remaining after pinching off is usually about 10 cm (to the border of the beginning of the lignified vine). The method is of the same nature as the chasing, which was mentioned above, only the forces of the plant are activated in future inflorescences. This process has a positive effect on the quality and quantity of future bunches. It should be repeated every 12-14 days.

After the end of the flowering period, around July, green pruning of grapes is carried out - removal of stepchildren. They are shoots that grow from a place located between the leaf and the stem of the branch. If you miss the moment, then these processes will quickly grow, the bush will become thick, the access of sunlight to the fruits will be difficult. In addition, the grapes can get sick, and the berries will lose their sweetness and become sour. It is not necessary to completely (to the very base) remove the stepson, since in a couple of days a new process will appear in its place. It will be better if you pinch off part of the stepson, while leaving 2 cm in length. Stepchildren should be audited weekly.

Clarification of the bush is the pruning of grapes, aimed at thinning the crown. This achieves the necessary ventilation, better access to the rays of the sun, this procedure is carried out during the ripening of the clusters. An important point - always remove the cut branches, do not leave them on the ground under the grapes. Pests and bacteria can start in this foliage, which will subsequently successfully move to the bush and infect it.

Do not be afraid to thin out bushes that are too dense, even if there are brushes on the branches being removed. Let you lose a little in the quantity of the crop, but, undoubtedly, its quality will win. If the branch is strong, then three or four bunches of grapes can be located on it, it is recommended to leave one brush on weak vines.

  1. Whatever variety is planted, in the first and second year of the life of the bush, all types of pruning are done in the same way.
  2. Before proceeding with the removal of extra shoots, decide on the shape of the bush, calculate the order of your actions in advance.
  3. If winters are too cold in your area, the grapes will need a protective shelter, its trunk should be quite small.
  4. If a fruitful vine has already overwintered twice, it should be pruned, as it will no longer bear fruit.
  5. If you are pruning fruit arrows, be aware that the pair of lowest buds is almost always empty. Leave at least 8 eyes on the arrow.

Grape care, pruning in summer differs from autumn procedures, as it does not affect the lignified fragments of the bush, but is limited only to green branches, leaves, ovaries of brushes.

Still, it is worth mentioning one more technique that allows you to improve the quality of the crop, reduce the ripening time of the fruit. We are talking about banding - a rather traumatic procedure for a bush. It is allowed to be held once every two to three years. Ringing is the removal of bark rings from fruit branches. The thickness of the removed layer should be no more than 3 mm. Thus, the nutritive juices of the plant are sent to the clusters, as well as to those parts of the vines that are located above the "operated" fragment.

Timely pruning of grapes in the summer is a necessary, useful event, from which you and the bush itself will only benefit. A correctly carried out procedure, regular monitoring of the state of the vineyard with the onset of autumn will bring the expected result, and the grapes will reward you for your work with a generous harvest of bulk bunches.

Every gardener sooner or later wonders when to pick the leaves from the grapes. This representative of the flora is unanimously recognized as the most attractive of all berry and garden plants. However, many summer residents, faced with incomprehensible terms, get scared and do not want to delve into the intricacies of care, but in vain. After all, this plant is called one of the most grateful: after two years it gives trial results, and from each adult shoot you can collect up to 30 kilograms of grapes. Which of us did not want to show off noble and dense brushes to a neighbor? All efforts are returned three times.

During the ripening period, leaves must be removed.

What do you need to know?

Viticulture is a huge and complex science. To achieve high performance, it is important to do the right work at the right level and at the recommended time.
If you want to have large bunches, get ready for constant summer work.

Throughout the year, the plant is waiting for thorough care. This list includes:

  • ringing, accelerating development by 10-16 days;
  • pasynkovanie, contributing to the redistribution of vital elements;
  • chasing, leading to accelerated maturation of the vine;
  • thinning of large inflorescences.

All these actions reduce the negative impact of the environment on fruiting, but they will not be effective if you work incorrectly with the leaves, which are an overvalued storehouse of vitamins, as they contain an incredible amount of tannins, are regarded as an inexhaustible source of organic acids, sucrose. Tincture removes sputum, relieves hypertension and tonsillitis; freshly prepared gruel stops bleeding, saves from varicose veins. Grape leaf is one of the main ingredients in Bulgarian, Arabic, Turkish and Greek cuisines.

Picking grape leaves should not be done at lunchtime: it is better to do this in the morning or after sunset so that the bunches do not get burned. Sun wounds are very difficult to treat, so do not get carried away breaking out the leaves. Some strains simply require full sun to produce the desired coloration. Here you have to take risks and get rid of greenery. However, it is recommended to do this not immediately, but gradually: once every three days, remove one or two sheets. The berries will gradually get used to the increased sun exposure.

If the autumn turned out to be cool and damp, it is also recommended to thin out the greens in late varieties (Italy, Crimson seeds, Vierul-59, Ataman, Biruintsa).

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Using torn leaves

Every gardener sooner or later wonders when to pick the leaves from the grapes.

Defoliation is a trick used just before harvest. Compared to other industries, viticulture has been using this method relatively recently. If the phase of digging seedlings has begun, and the growing season is delayed, then the leaves in the shkolka are removed. The procedure is laborious, but gives impressive results. However, few people know that grape leaves become unusable not only within the radius of the bunches, but also across the entire width of the bush up to the thirteenth on the basis of the shoot. In this regard, full and partial defoliation are distinguished.

Full is carried out on covering varieties in order to speed up pre-pruning and prepare for the winter season. Partial involves removing the lower leaves. This method is intensively used in the northern regions of the grape business. Dessert varieties do not like an abundance of greens. They need leaf breakage in order to speed up the production of sugar. Different zones are subjected to different intensity: in some areas, the debris is carried out regularly, while in others - only on dominant bushes or in a year with high humidity.

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Secrets of specialists

Grapes are a sun-loving plant. With a lack of light, the buds of the fetus are not tied, the yield falls catastrophically, the bush loses its resistance to various types of diseases. Well-lit areas should be allocated under the vineyard, in no case should the plant be planted between fruit trees.
The berries are more abundantly illuminated by the sun, which means they ripen better, they receive more assimilation products from greenery. The vines should not be left free standing or bent. The tops of the shoots must also be removed, since there should be one place to attract nutrients - clusters.

Cutting off the leaves of the grapes is meaningless if the minting of the shoots is not carried out, since the fruit will not be able to fully use its advantage.

Chasing involves removing the tops with the leaves that are on them. This gives an additional influx of plastic substances, contributes to the formation of resistance of vines to adverse weather conditions. If the work is carried out in a timely manner, an insignificant part of the greenery will be eliminated, which will improve photosynthesis, as it will increase the illumination. At least 9-13 leaves should be left above the upper bunch. It is most important to cut off the leaves shortly before the full ripening of the berries (15-20 days).
A premature bummer of green mass will harm the entire bush. You should use this technique with caution so that the work does not go to harm.

Grapes are an actively growing crop and, if attention is not paid to it, then the plant will spend most of its energy on the formation of young vines. There is one disappointment for the grower from such growth: the berries will be small and often sour, and their number will be small. Therefore, summer pruning of grapes is carried out so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation of new shoots. As a result, instead of the growth of young shoots, the strength of the grapes will be directed to the formation of the crop.

Pruning grapes in the summer for beginners

Pruning is an important step in growing grapes.

A novice grower can stop at only two options for summer pruning:

  1. breaking out
  2. pinching young shoots.

I advise you to always pay attention to the number of fruiting arrows

  • if there are a large number of them, then the harvest will be large, but the berries themselves can be small and tasteless. The fruit will lack the necessary nutrients. These substances accumulate if the vine has, among other things, shoots devoid of ovaries, but having large and well-developed leaf blades.
  • However, there should not be too many such shoots, the ratio should be approximately equal and it must be maintained artificially.

I will reveal a couple of secrets from myself personally to novice growers.

  1. Not everyone knows that a vine that has survived two winters will no longer bear fruit, therefore, it must be cut ruthlessly.
  2. If you decide to cut off fruitful arrows, then know that a pair of lower buds are usually empty, so do not take them into account and leave 7 or 8 buds, that is, 5-6 normal ones.

Is it possible to prune grapes in summer

Grapes require pruning in the summer, both before and after flowering. Moreover, even if the clusters have already formed, you can still continue to remove the "extra" growths.

  1. IN June special care for grapes. I advise you to break off the young shoots and tie up fruitful vines. This will allow each grape bush to more evenly distribute the load of empty shoots and clusters starting to tie.
  2. Also in June the plant will begin laying replacement knots in order to form fruit-bearing shoots in their place next year.
  3. IN July, immediately after flowering, you need to break out the stepchildren, as well as apply fertilizer.
  4. this is the best time, and also a great time for chasing young shoots, in addition, you can remove some of the upper roots, which activates the growth of the lower part of the grape root.


Is it necessary to cut off the mustache of grapes

  • You can cut off the whiskers of grapes at least every day, but, for example, I don’t do this at all and I don’t advise you.
  • Grape tendrils do not provide any nutritional load; in their biology, they are hooks for attaching vines.
  • If the vines are entirely tied to the support, and the antennae become out of work, then they can be removed.

Green pruning grapes in summer

Green pruning of grapes includes performing such green operations as:

  1. Pinching immediately inhibits the growth of the shoot in length, and the bulk of the nutrients coming from the roots goes to future inflorescences.
  2. pasynkovanie allows you to get larger and sweeter fruits, moreover, it is a prevention against fungal diseases of grapes.
  3. At the end of summer, pay attention coinage grapes: this operation will accelerate the ripening of berries, and sometimes quite noticeably.
  4. thinning(clarification) of the fruiting zone is aimed at removing excess leaf blades that darken the bush, interfere with the flow of sunlight to the clusters. Thinning is also an excellent disease prevention.

How to pinch grapes in summer

I advise you to pinch the grapes before flowering:

  • you need two fingers - forefinger and thumb - to pinch the top of the young growth.
  • I usually split off 7-8 cm before the start of an already lignified shoot.
  • Pinching can be repeated every 12-15 days.

Stepping grapes in summer

I advise stepchildren after flowering, in July.

What is a stepchild and how to find it?

  • This is a lateral process that grows directly from the leaf axil, usually in the main part of the shoot. If the stepchildren are not removed, the grape bush will thicken greatly, the fruits will become smaller and sour. On thickened plants, various diseases often occur, for example, fungal diseases.

When removing stepsons, I advise you not to cut them to the ground, this will not do much, the grape plant grows very actively, and if you remove the entire stepson, then in just a couple of days a new one will begin to grow in its place.

  1. To avoid this, the plant must be “deceived” and cut off the stepson so that a process of approx. 1.5 cm.
  2. Inspect plants for new stepchildren at least once a week, and remove them.

Chasing grapes in summer

Chasing is the same pinching, only the top of the shoot is removed not by 7-8 cm, but by 25-30 cm, and in some cases even more, up to 40 cm.

  1. I recommend chasing towards the end of summer when the shoots have already grown and you can see what to remove where.
  2. For chasing, no tools are needed, the thumb and forefinger are quite enough.
  3. If there is not enough strength, then you can use a pruner or scissors, but at the same time, moving from plant to plant, it is advisable to disinfect the blade so as not to spread a possible infection.

If you overdo it, the grapes will strike back - they will form a huge number of stepchildren, thereby causing trouble for you, and they will spend their strength and nutrients to the detriment of the harvest.

  • Do not forget that the vine carries the leaf mass, and the leaves are the photosynthetic apparatus necessary to provide plants with energy.
  • If there are too few leaves, then nothing good, for example, the crop, can ripen much longer.
  • It is better to mint in such a way that after its completion there are 15 leaf blades on each shoot. This volume of leaf mass is quite enough for the grapes to live normally.

Thinning grapes

Thinning bunches of grapes is necessary to lighten the bush by removing part of the leaf blades. In addition to the obvious plus from increasing the illumination of the plant, we also provide ventilation for the vines, and, therefore, reduce the likelihood of a fungal infection.

  1. Before the maturation of the brushes, I do not advise clarification.
  2. And in general, it is better for beginner growers to refuse this operation, otherwise you can remove the leaves necessary for the plant, thereby slowing down the maturation of the brushes.
  3. Let the clarification be carried out by professionals who understand whether there is a lot of foliage on the plant or not.

After clarification, be sure to remove the leaves from the site, do not mulch the soil with them, especially near the base of the trunk, because there may be diseases on the leaves that will spread to the vine.

How many clusters to leave on grapes

Clusters on a grape bush can also be thinned out if there are a lot of them. The number of berries itself will be less, but due to the redistribution of nutrition, the remaining ones will be large and sweet.

  • It is appropriate to artificially reduce clusters on young plants that have not yet developed enough root systems.
  • I try to keep 3 bunches on a well developed shoot - a maximum of 4 bunches if the shoot is well developed.
  • If the shoot is weak, then one bunch is enough.

In order for the vine to successfully bear fruit for many years, every gardener must know the intricacies of caring for the crop. This science is not simple, but fascinating, having become acquainted with it, it is easy to achieve unsurpassed results. Is it necessary to cut off the leaves on the grapes when it can be done?

An overgrown vine bush should be freed from excess leaves.

Why are leaves removed?

So that the results of labor are not in vain, and every autumn the vine pleases with a rich harvest, it is necessary to provide the bush with proper care throughout the growing season, therefore, removing the leaves, they pursue several goals.

Sufficient lighting

Grapes are a sun-loving culture, without it it is difficult for a plant to exist:

  • the kidneys will not tie;
  • it will be impossible to reap a good harvest;
  • in the shade, the susceptibility of the shrub to diseases increases;
  • berries in low light will remain sour and tasteless.

Therefore, grapes are placed in the most illuminated areas, and if you plant it under the arch of fruit trees, this means death for the plant. When the sun's rays fall on the fruits themselves, ripening occurs faster, the flow of nutrients from the green mass is stimulated.

leaf aging

From the point of view of a specialist vine grower, he explains the need to remove excess leaves with a scientific approach:

  • A grape leaf actively lives and develops for 70, maximum 100 days. All this time, he is responsible for the synthesis of substances in the plant, for its nutrition.
  • After this period, the existence of old leaves ceases to be appropriate. They begin to take strength from the bush, consume a huge amount of components important for life.

Grape leaves older than 70 days do not benefit the vine

Sanitary measures

Ventilation for the bush is an important factor in the health of grapes. If you do not remove the leaves on time, gray rot, mildew and other fungal and bacterial infections spread quickly enough on the shrub. This is important in rainy and cool summers, the greens are also cut at the bottom of the vine.

When the autumn is cool with a lot of rain, late grape varieties in the south - Italy, Biruintsa, Vierul-59 or Crimson Seeds also require thinning of greens.

Variety and removal of leaves

Care depends on the grape variety:

  • For light varieties, good illumination of the fruit is of great importance, the green mass is removed so that sunlight gives them the opportunity to receive more rays and heat, from which their color acquires a rich golden hue. The leaves are cut directly around the clusters.
  • For dark species, bush aeration is more important. Therefore, they clean the greens, a little differently.

Black grapes love the movement of air between the bunches.

When to cut leaves

The procedure for removing foliage is a crucial moment, it is important to carry it out correctly, otherwise you can damage the plant, weaken it and lose some of the fruit.

  • The leaves are not cut off at lunchtime, when the sun is at its zenith.
  • To avoid burns on the bunches, it is preferable to carry out the procedure in the evening, you can choose a cloudy day.
  • All foliage at once, do not remove. Once every 2 days it is allowed to remove no more than three leaves. So it is easier for the berries to adapt to increased lighting, and the bush will have time to recover.
  • Manipulations are carried out with secateurs or scissors, cutting off the plates at the base near the stalk. If you do this with your hands, you can damage healthy organs, they can easily penetrate the infection, and this will damage the health of the vine. The tools carry out the operation carefully, without much damage to the plant tissue, do not deform the shoots, the cut remains even and tightens quickly.
  • Thin out the leaves before the berries soften about a month before harvesting, then the result will be most pronounced.
  • In cold, damp autumn, the leaves are first removed around the clusters. Only 5-7 pieces are removed.
  • On dark varieties, the leaves are cut off inside the bush for ventilation.

If experience is not enough, then the advice of a gardener with experience will help, you can also watch videos on the Internet. After all, the fruiting of the shrub, its ability to produce a crop depends on this.

You need to cut off the leaves a month before the grapes ripen.

Grape defoliation

The term refers to the elimination of part of the leaves of the plant with the help of chemical pesticides. In grapes, defoliation has been applied not so long ago, but today it is recognized as expedient. Sometimes a partial processing of the shrub is carried out, but sometimes it is done completely. It is used for the purpose of:

  • On covering varieties, it is used to speed up the start of pruning a bush in order to have time to prepare it for winter.
  • Partial, designed to remove leaves at the bottom. When they begin to turn yellow, photosynthesis processes in them decrease, in order to reduce the load, they are removed.
  • Sometimes used for harvesting bunches with the help of equipment.
  • In nurseries, the method is used when it is required to dig up seedlings from a school or scions on mother bushes are treated with a solution.
  • This is done for the successful harvesting of cuttings before frost. Naked seedlings are easier to dig up and plant for the winter. So they are better stored and less susceptible to the development of the fungus.

Usually sodium chlorate is used. For seedlings, a 1% solution concentration is suitable, and for adult bushes, about 1.5% and even 2.5% are suitable. Processing is carried out in the early morning of the days 10 or 2 weeks before digging or harvesting the fruits.

Defoliation is suitable for areas with harsh climates, and is also used in the south to increase the production of sugars in some varieties.

Sodium chlorate is used for chemical defoliation

Additional events

But cutting off the leaves alone is not enough to achieve the goal and collect a decent harvest, it is necessary to mint the shoots and remove the stepchildren, because, having got rid of only the leaves, the berries will not be able to fully use the benefits that the gardener provides them.

Leaf minting

Chasing is the removal of the tops of the shoots along with the leaves. This will give more room for the nutrients to penetrate the fruit, making the vine strong and able to survive if the weather doesn't stay warm enough. With a timely procedure, even if a small part of the green shoots is cut off, the photosynthesis of the bush will improve significantly. Above the top bunch leave at least 9, maximum 13 leaves. This is best done 2 or 3 weeks before the grapes ripen. If you carry out the procedure earlier, it can harm the shrub.

Excess vine is removed along with the leaves.

Removal of stepchildren

In the summer, stepchildren are also removed - shoots developing from the side, in the axils of the leaves. If they are not removed, they will grow and form new shoots that will shade and thicken the bush, take away strength from the fruit-bearing branches. Stepchildren are cut one and a half cm above the first sheet. If you remove it at the base, it will grow back very quickly. Events are held every week, when examining a bush, revealing new shoots.

When removing leaves, it should be remembered that the measure is important, and it is impossible to fanatically cut off the entire green mass.

Without it, the bush will not be able to fully exist, it is the keeper of the stock of all the important components of the life of the bush. It is enough to eliminate a small part, otherwise the berries will not be able to fully ripen, they will not be sweet.