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Ants on cabbage roots. Reanimating cabbage after an invasion of cabbage ants

Ants on cabbage roots. Reanimating cabbage after an invasion of cabbage ants

On the one hand, these hardworking insects command respect due to their organization, cohesion and discipline. They build anthills by making passages in the ground or making an embankment, and can also settle in the wall of a building. However, when an anthill appears in a garden, in a garden bed or in a flower bed, a large invasion of insects annoys a person. In addition, ants breed aphids; for them, these small insect pests are like cash cows; the ants feed on the sweet secretions of aphids and specifically spread these pests to plants for reproduction. To remove aphids, first you will have to get rid of ants on the site.

It’s a fact, but aphids without ants do not spread throughout the garden so quickly and die under unfavorable conditions I. Aphids settle in the garden on apple, pear, cherry, currant and other plants. Small pests prefer to live on young leaves and shoots, sucking out their juice, causing the leaves to curl and the shoots to stop growing. The aphids multiply quickly, and the ants disperse the larvae into new plants that have not been colonized by aphids. Ants, as true hosts, protect aphids from other insects and keep several individuals in the anthill in winter for reproduction the next season. When severely infested with aphids, garden trees and shrubs do not grow and do not produce crops.

When treating plants with various aphids, it is also necessary to take measures to evict the ants from the site. Having eradicated aphids from trees and shrubs, the ants will soon colonize new colonies of pests on them.

Ants independently choose a place to settle and can build an anthill in a flowerbed, garden bed, greenhouse, garden, in the wall of a building, at the roots of garden trees and shrubs, or under a garden path, from where it is difficult to expel unwanted guests. As the ants multiply, they will enlarge the anthill, making more passages deeper or increasing the earthen mounds. If you do not immediately drive the ants out of the area, their number will increase and over time it will be more difficult to get rid of the ant nest.

Garden ants require sweet carbohydrates and proteins for nutrition. Ants get sweets not only from the secretions of aphids; they can eat strawberries, raspberries, and also love sugary vegetables and root vegetables - carrots, beets, pumpkin. In flower beds, insects feast on delicate flower buds, Ants can often be seen on peony buds or roses. To get proteins for their diet, ants destroy many insect pests - various caterpillars, moths, cutworms, bark beetles and sawflies.

Ants create a huge family; in their society, each individual has its own role. One anthill can live from several thousand to a million ants. Adults are divided by profession - these are soldiers, builders, porters, scouts, nannies. Ants reproduce with the help of females and males; during the mating period they have wings and fly up to mate. After fertilization, the female sheds her wings and the males die.

Ant female or the queen can live up to 20 years, an incredible age for insects, during which time she can give birth to more than 100 million worker ants and up to tens of thousands of new females and males. There may be not one female in an anthill, but several. The queen is not the main one in the anthill; it is the worker ants who select the most fertile females, settle them in the passages, feed them, and also leave the required number of larvae for each profession.

Folk ways to remove ants from a site:

You can get rid of ants in your garden using simple folk remedies without using dangerous drugs.

Many people probably tried to destroy the anthill or poison these insects, but these hard workers restore their home in a matter of days, and it is simply impossible to destroy an army of thousands of ants. You can get rid of ants on your property by repelling them with various odors. so that they move to a new place or walk around protected plants. Ants do not like the strong odors of many plants - garlic, tomato tops, mint, anise, tansy, wormwood. To scare away ants, place sprigs of fragrant greenery around the anthill and plants for protection.

Some people drive out ants using odorous herring heads, lemon, cloves, mustard powder or ground black pepper. However, these products do not guarantee that the ants will leave and not return, since the smell of herbs and other products will disappear over time.

The main way to evict ants from a site is to dig up an anthill and move it to a forest or other remote place. You can dig an anthill if it is not located in the roots of trees or shrubs, next to plants, under a path or in a wall. You need to dig tunnels deep to the lower levels where the ants place their eggs and larvae. Pour the anthill into a bucket, greasing its top with vegetable oil, or into a bag so that the insects do not crawl out. You need to dig out the anthill in the evening, when all the workers have returned home.

You can remove ants from dug holes under tiles of garden paths or in small cracks in walls and in greenhouses by covering the exits from the anthill with salt or soda on top. The insects will not be able to remove the fine powder away from their home and will go off to look for a new home.

Wood ash also effectively repels ants and is an excellent fertilizer. To protect plants from ants and other pests, place a palm-wide layer of ash around the plants or beds in a ring; ants will not pass through such a barrier.

If you regularly fill the anthill with a hose so that all the passages are filled and the ants do not have time to dry them, sooner or later they will leave the unfavorable place, but they may move nearby.

Ways to get rid of ants forever:

A simple folk method to get rid of ants on your property using yeast is effective. Take a piece or a tablespoon of dry yeast, mix it with a little water and a spoon of sugar. Pour the yeast into small cups or jars and, covering it from the sun and rain, place it around the anthill; the ants will disappear in a couple of days.

Anyone who does not feel sorry for numerous insects can try remove the anthill with boiling water. It is better to fill the anthills with boiling water in the spring so that the hot water fills the lower passages and the eggs and larvae of the new generation of ants are cooked in them. By carrying out this operation monthly, you will curb the massive reproduction of ants.

You can reduce the number of ants and completely destroy them using poisonous baits. Ants love to eat sweets, prepare sweet syrup, jam or melt honey by adding a little yeast (20 g) and boric acid (5 g) per half liter. You can mix sweets with other chemicals, the ants will eat them and feed the larvae, and in a couple of days they will die.

Can pour vegetable oil into the ant passages, insects cannot digest its smell. The strong smell of kerosene repels ants; do not pour it into the soil; it is better to soak rags and place them around the anthill or around plants so that the ants avoid them.

Sprinkling quicklime on the anthill, insects will be forced to flee from their home, a carbolic acid solution also works.

How to get rid of ants in the garden:

To h To protect garden trees from ants and prevent aphids from appearing on the leaves, wrap the trunks before branching with adhesive tape to catch flies. Insects will stick to this barrier.

The trunks of garden trees can be wrapped in foil; its slippery surface will prevent ants from climbing up to the crown of the tree.

Repel ants from garden trees and shrubs fragrant linseed oil will help. Soak wool in oil and tie it around tree trunks in the garden, or mix soot with linseed oil and coat the bark of trees and shrubs at the base with this mixture.

While some folk remedies for ants may fail, chemical insecticides destroy ants outright. Nowadays, many anti-ant preparations are sold in the form of powder, gel, granules or emulsion for dilution in water - these are Antiant, Anteater, Ant, Muratox, Thunder and others. All chemicals must be used with precautions.

2013-07-01

How many gardens - so many problems. But there are solutions! Sometimes quite simple. And it happens that a successful experience tried by someone turns into disappointment. But this is not bad, that’s why they are mistakes, to learn from them.

For five years now, every month I have been waiting for a meeting with Dacha, looking forward to the mailbox. During this time, many issues of the magazine have accumulated, but each one is very dear, since “Dacha” is both a people’s encyclopedia and a self-instruction manual, which has helped me out more than once. I am a gardener with little experience, but I have some experience. The beds are already in full swing, filling up. But this year’s seedlings, as always, required care. Therefore, I think my experience will be useful to someone.

Everyone in our family loves cabbage in any form: fresh, pickled, fried. Therefore, as soon as we had a plot of land, I began to grow it, using the recommendations of Dacha. But if earlier there were problems with the cabbage fly, the larvae of which ate up the plants after the rain, then recently the climate has changed noticeably, the summer has become very hot. And cabbage, as soon as it begins to gain strength after planting in open ground, is simply eaten by ants.

At first I couldn’t understand why the best, most powerful young plants suddenly turn purple and then wither and dry out? But when I dug up several wilted bushes, absolutely all the dead specimens had anthills in the center of the hole, and the stems themselves and even the roots were eaten away to the point of a thread! Apparently, the ants choose the juiciest, best plants and feast on them, eating away the young stem roots.

Mature plants whose stem roots have already become coarse are not interesting to ants. Whatever I did! I poured sand around each plant, sprinkled it with boric acid powder, poured diluted vinegar under the roots... It was no use. The seedlings dried out, and the ants took over other plants. So I lost up to half the harvest.

I grow cabbage seedlings myself, mainly the late varieties Kolobok and Aggressor, but this year it was too late to sow seeds for new seedlings, and they were no longer sold on the market. And then I decided to “reanimate” the first one - I remembered that cabbage takes root very well, even old stalks form roots themselves by spring.

Our advice

There are many known remedies for ants. Let's remember two more - old ones, grandma's.

To remove ants, you can use yeast (of course, not dry yeast from bags). Half a block of yeast should be mixed with old jam, spread on pieces of bread and placed as bait near the planted seedlings.
Another remedy is rhubarb: you need to put its crushed leaves in the found and suspected places where insects accumulate.

I dug up all the wilting plants. I selected those that had at least something like a root stem or even part of it left, tore off all the purple or wilted leaves, leaving only 1-2 central ones, the smallest, but alive, and put them in a container with water in shaded place. After about a week, lateral roots appeared on the thin bare threads, and soon these were already completely normal roots.

I planted this cabbage in a new place. Then I watered it abundantly, shaded it in the heat, and when I saw that new leaves had appeared, i.e. The cabbage took off safely and began to grow; I fed it twice with nitrogen fertilizer. Gradually she caught up with the one that the ants had not touched, and by November she had formed good tight heads of cabbage. By the way, the same method can also save cabbage damaged by the cabbage fly.

And I set up an “intensive care unit” in the place where my experiment on planting tomato seedlings “with fish”, as A.F. advised, ended disastrously. Shortages in No. 2 for 2012 in the article “Fish for tomatoes.” ..

I don’t argue, maybe this advice is good, but you should only use it when you don’t have four-legged friends who love fish very much, and also if you are sure that stray cats will not wander into your area.

I'm out of luck here. The next day after planting the tomato seedlings in the holes with the fish, I found all the holes dug up, and the seedlings were lying to the side, broken. I again planted another seedling in this place, this time without fish, but it suffered the same fate, since the smell remained and attracted animals.

It’s good that I introduce everything new first on experimental beds, and not on the entire crop at once - to see how the new method works. Otherwise, I would have been left without tomatoes altogether. But in any case: everything new you like needs to be tested and the results analyzed.

Source: “My beautiful Dacha No. 8, 2013” Svetlana Alekseevna PONOMARENKO. Donetsk

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Ants are one of the most common beneficial hymenopteran insects. However, their excessive quantity in the garden or vegetable garden can cause great damage to the future harvest. The fact is that gardeners prefer to build their nests in the roots of seedlings, gnawing them. Insects can be found especially often in strawberries and currants, as well as under plum, apple or pear trees. They often harm bell pepper, eggplant or cabbage seedlings by digging long tunnels in the ground. You will learn what to do if ants eat cabbage in this article.

Why are ants harmful in the garden?

In addition to the fact that they eat up the roots of seedlings and love to feast on the fruits of strawberries, apricots, apple trees or plums, they are also distributors of the most dangerous enemy of gardens and vegetable gardens. The attention of ants is attracted by the viscous liquid secreted by aphids (honeydew), which is their favorite treat. The aphid itself feeds on the sap of plants, “drying” them. As a result, the leaves of the plant turn yellow, wither and begin to fall off. Therefore, the appearance of such allies in the garden poses a serious threat to the harvest.

How to protect cabbage

Chemical and folk remedies will help get rid of ants on cabbage. Or you can use a shovel to dig up and take out the anthill along with its inhabitants to a place distant from the garden.

Folk remedies

How to save cabbage from ants using folk remedies:

Tansy, wormwood, anise or mint - the aroma that all these plants emit. It is enough to simply place sprigs of herbs in places where pests are present. Infusions are also prepared from these plants and used to spray cabbage.
Garlic has a good repellent effect. It is planted or chopped cloves are laid out between the beds.
If ants eat cabbage, tomato tops will help drive them out of the garden. It has a negative effect on insects due to the solanine contained in the branches and green fruits of tomatoes. The decoction is prepared as follows: 2 kg of chopped tomato stems and leaves are poured into 5 liters of boiling water and infused for 2 days. with cabbage, it is necessary to treat the damaged seedlings with strained infusion.
- another effective and very affordable remedy against ants on cabbage. It is enough to simply cover the places of accumulation, as well as the paths where insects move, with a layer of mustard powder. Its smallest particles penetrate the body and clog the spiracles of pests, which forces them to leave the territory they have chosen.
An equally effective way to evict ants from a cabbage bed is to sprinkle the area with tobacco dust or red pepper.
or borax - both of these powders are quite poisonous to insects. They are used to cook with sugar or honey. The poisonous delicacy is placed among cabbage seedlings, as well as near the anthill.
To prevent ants from eating cabbage, many summer residents use potato peelings. They are laid out between the beds, as well as next to. Starch, which is found in large quantities in potatoes, has a negative effect on insects. A pest that has had enough dinner will face inevitable death, since the ant’s body is not able to digest starch.
Boiling water is a fairly good way to destroy an anthill. Boiling water is poured directly into the pest nest. To be sure to get rid of it, it is necessary to repeat this procedure. Vegetable oil and kerosene have similar properties.

Chemicals

Chemicals are the most effective way to control pests in the garden. They allow you to get rid of the entire ant family in the shortest possible time thanks to the insecticidal components they contain. The active ingredients are usually organophosphorus and pyrethroid compounds, which, when they penetrate the insect’s body, cause its death. Preparations are in great demand among gardening enthusiasts.

Fresh and pickled cabbage, sour cabbage soup and cabbage soup, cabbage rolls and dumplings with cabbage - this, of course, is not a complete list of dishes that can be prepared from this popular and beloved vegetable. But cabbage leaves appeal to not only people, but also many garden pests, and each of them has its own preferences. Potatoes, one might say, are “lucky” in this sense: they have only one, albeit very voracious, enemy - the Colorado potato beetle.

Do you want to always have a cabbage harvest? Then try to recognize and neutralize uninvited guests in time. And we will begin to get acquainted with each of them as they appear on the site during the spring field work.

Small jumping bugs (2-3 cm) appear in garden beds in early spring, as soon as the soil thaws. Small cruciferous flea beetles gnaw holes in the leaves and stems of young plants, which is why seedlings (especially in the cotyledon phase) can die very quickly. For adult plants, the damage from cruciferous flea beetles is not so great, but if the pest appears in large numbers, it can greatly spoil the presentation of cabbage heads. A massive outbreak of cruciferous flea beetles is usually observed in hot, dry weather.

Protection:

Many gardeners widely use dusting of crops with tobacco dust or ash to protect against flea beetles. Dusting should be done early in the morning, when there is dew. Unfortunately, this method does not always give good results.

Covering non-woven material protects cabbage beds well from fleas. But, having covered the beds with spandbond, you still need to check the condition of the crops from time to time, because under such cover pests can unnoticed do their dirty work.

Cruciferous flea beetles do not like moisture very much. Therefore, watering and sprinkling are one of the most effective ways to protect cabbage and other cruciferous crops from these pests.

The above protection methods can be safely used in. But if none of them suits you, let’s move on to the heavy artillery :) To combat cruciferous flea beetles, the following chemical remedies are used:

Actellik (20 ml per 10 liters of water)

Decis, etc.

All these insecticides are recommended to be used only in the event of a massive outbreak of harmful insects. You need to be especially careful with fast-ripening plants (early ripening and Chinese cabbage, radishes). Here, non-chemical means of control will still be preferable.

Stem cabbage stalker

This pest is very cunning, you won’t be able to see it right away, because it knows how to hide well. Quite often gardeners ask the question:

“The ants eat the cabbage. What to do?"

In fact, ants, who are known as great lovers of sweets, only take advantage of the results of other people's labor. Probably everyone knows that ants protect and nurture aphids, which provide them with the sweet waste of their “production.” So it is in our case.

Cabbage seedlings look unhealthy, the veins on the leaves have turned blue, and the leaves themselves are starting to fade? And, of course, the ubiquitous ants scurry around. But don’t rush to accuse them of sabotage. Carefully rake the soil away from the cabbage stalk and take a closer look: here is the main culprit - a small black bug with a long proboscis, hiding on the stalk and not moving.

The secretive beetle belongs to the family of weevils; in total, there are up to 2 dozen species of these beetles in nature. Females of the species we are interested in lay eggs in cabbage stems under the lower leaf. The beetle larvae develop in the stem and gnaw through passages all the way to the root. The plant lags behind in growth and begins to wither over time.

Protection:

Unfortunately, the arsenal of means to combat this pest is not very large. Agrofibre can be used as protection. But the main control measure is protection using chemical agents. Before planting, it is recommended to soak the seedlings for several hours in a solution of any insecticide (Aktara, Decis, Bankol, etc.). If beetles are noticed on the stems of the seedlings, the plants can be watered under the stems with the same solution. Chemicals are not effective in controlling larvae. Affected plants must be removed from the site immediately.

There are two types of cabbage fly - spring and summer. They are not much different from each other, but the spring one in a temperate climate manages to breed 2 generations per season, and the summer one only one. The first begins to lay eggs during the cherry and lilac flowering period, the second flies out at the end of June. The fly larvae penetrate inside the plants and gnaw numerous tunnels in the cabbage stems. The primary sign of damage may be the leaf veins turning blue, and then the leaves begin to wilt. If you press on the head of cabbage with your hand, it can easily fall off the stem.

Protection:

You can, of course, try to spray the plants with chemical protection agents, but if the larvae are already inside the stem, these agents have virtually no effect. And besides, chemical protection for early ripening cabbage varieties is extremely undesirable.

Cabbage fly usually lays eggs at the base of the stem or on the soil around it. During this period, it is recommended to hill up the cabbage. After harvesting, it is necessary to remove the cabbage stumps from the plot, because pupated fly larvae may remain in them for the winter. The application of fertilizers and microfertilizers during the growth period can increase the resistance of plants to pest damage.

Cabbage whites

Already in early May you can see a white-winged butterfly with black spots on its wings fluttering merrily from plant to plant. But the vegetable grower is not too happy about such a beauty, because the voracious caterpillars of the cabbage butterfly can severely damage cabbage heads, often making them completely unfit for consumption. First, the caterpillars of the white butterfly eat the lower part of the leaves, and then move inside the head of cabbage, gnawing passages in it and leaving traces of their vital activity.

Protection:

The simplest means of control is to periodically inspect the leaves from the underside and manually collect caterpillars and egg clutches. Most pests can be destroyed by predatory insects and birds. Spraying with chemicals should be carried out only in large areas, where manual collection is impossible.

Another way to protect against cabbage whites is to cover the beds with agrofibre. The covering material reliably hides the cabbage from the butterfly's field of view and creates a microclimate that is very beneficial for plant growth.

Also, quite often, gardeners use a distracting maneuver for protection: they install low twigs between the cabbage plants, on which they put a white eggshell. This is a kind of signal for the white butterfly - there is already a competitor on the site!

Owl butterflies are inconspicuous in appearance and really do not like the attention of spectators. During the day they prefer to hide in secluded places, and in the evening they fly out of hiding. Eggs are laid on the back side of the leaf, as well as on the surface of the soil near the roots of young plants. Cutworm caterpillars can harm not only cabbage, but also root crops, potatoes, and legumes.

In cabbage heads, the cutworm caterpillar gnaws the same tunnels as the cabbage white moth. It is not uncommon to find light green and gray-brown caterpillars on the same plant.

Protection:

Control measures are the same as for cabbage whites. To reduce the number of overwintering individuals, autumn plowing and thorough cleaning of the area for the winter are recommended.

Aphids cause the greatest damage to the cabbage crop during dry periods; up to 12-16 generations of small insects can appear over the summer. Plants infected with aphid colonies are stunted in growth, have poor marketability, and, if heavily infested, may even disappear.

Protection:

It’s good if your site has sufficient natural enemies of aphids, entomophagous insects - lacewings, syrphids, ladybugs. They are capable of suppressing aphid outbreaks without the need for chemical treatment of plants.

Of the chemicals used to combat aphids, the most effective are Bi-58, Zolon, and Decis. For better adhesion to the leaves, add laundry soap or other detergent to the drug solution. Now there are special adhesives on sale.

Slugs

These uninvited guests most often appear during periods of prolonged rain and prefer to hide in cabbage heads between the leaves. Once slugs have already appeared in cabbage, it is too late to fight them. You can learn how to prevent the appearance of these pests on our website.

It cannot be said that any cabbage pest is more dangerous than others. Depending on the weather and type of terrain, the damage from each of them may vary. You may not even have to meet some of them - so much the better.

Ants are known as beneficial insects that eat caterpillars and other pests. But too many of them in a garden plot can cause significant damage to the future harvest, and cabbage is no exception.

The ants settle in the roots of the seedling, gnawing its developing root system, and also move through large tunnels in the soil. But before you fight ants, you should familiarize yourself with the most effective methods.

Why are ants harmful in the garden?

Ants always appear where there is tasty, aromatic and sweet food. Home garden beds and summer cottages are no exception: fruit trees with sweet fruits, berries, seedlings of nightshades and other vegetable crops, in particular cabbage - all these plants are attacked by ants, which cause serious damage to the crop and spoil the roots of fruit trees.

In addition to sweet plants, ants are also attracted to the liquid (honeydew) that appears as a result of the activity of garden aphids. In turn, aphids feed on plant sap - as a result of eating by these insects, plants turn yellow, wither, lose leaves and eventually die. Therefore, the appearance of such a duet on the site should serve as a signal for taking urgent measures, since such unwanted guests can cause serious damage to the crop. In places where ants live, the acidity of the soil also changes, which negatively affects plant growth.

How to protect cabbage from ants

There are several ways to save cabbage seedlings. To do this, you can use both folk remedies and insecticides.

It is important to remember that the use of chemicals against ants causes some harm to plants, but completely destroys these insects. Therefore, their use in the fight against ants should be a last resort.

You can also dig up all the anthills located near the site and move them further away, for example, to a forest or shelterbelt, where the ants will be comfortable.

Folk remedies

Perhaps the most humane way to get rid of ants is to use plants that have the ability to repel insects. Usually these are aromatic plants and herbs.

Tansy

Tansy is considered one of the most effective measures in the fight against ants. You can use both fresh and dried plants. The product is prepared as follows: pour 2 kg of fresh tansy parts with 10 liters of water and leave for 2 days. Then boil the infusion for half an hour over low heat, strain and add the same amount of cold water. At the end, add 50 g of laundry soap, grated on a coarse grater. Mix the solution well until the soap is completely dissolved.

If dry tansy branches are used, then in this case the preparation of the product remains the same, but 800 g of dry branches should be taken.

Use the prepared product to treat areas where ants accumulate on cabbage heads.

You can also scatter fresh tansy flowers on the cabbage bed - their smell will make the ants retreat.

Sagebrush

The ancient Slavs used to fight ants with the help of wormwood branches. Bitter glycosides contained in the leaves of the plant effectively repel insects.

On a note. With the help of wormwood, you can also get rid of cockroaches, fleas and clothes moths.

Before using the plant, wormwood branches should be thoroughly crushed so that the strong and pungent odor spreads more strongly. And then scatter the plant on the cabbage beds. To avoid future ant infestations, you can plant wormwood near your cabbage beds.

Garlic

Garlic is an equally effective remedy in the fight against hated ants due to its pungent odor and bitter taste. Cut the garlic cloves lengthwise to enhance the aroma and place them on the beds between cabbage seedlings and near insect paths. You should periodically add fresh garlic cloves, as the smell dissipates over time. You can cut the garlic arrows slightly lengthwise and weave them into braids. Wrap braids around each head of cabbage. The smell of garlic will force insects to leave their homes.

Tomato tops

Tomato tops will help drive away ants that eat cabbage thanks to the substance solanine it contains. The repellent is prepared as follows: chop 2 kg of tomato tops, pour 5 liters of boiling water and leave for 2 days. Strain the solution and spray the damaged seedlings with it.

Mustard

A very effective remedy in the fight against ants. There is no need to sprinkle the entire bed with mustard powder - just sprinkle it in places where insects accumulate. The powder sticks to their paws, and thus the ants spread the mustard themselves. The action of the powder is to clog the respiratory system of the ants, forcing them to leave the area.

Ash

Ash has been used against ants since time immemorial. It not only serves to control pests, but also fertilizes the soil, and also protects plants from various diseases and fungi.

At their summer cottage, many people treat themselves to fresh kebab. Don't waste time: you need to dig out the anthills and pour hot wood ash into them. You need to act quickly so that the ash does not cool down, then it will block the access of air to the passages. The frightened ants will scatter in all directions and will not have time to save their queen.

You can also use a decoction of ash. It is prepared like this: 300 g of wood ash is poured with boiling water and placed on low heat for half an hour. Then bring the volume to 10 liters with water and add 40 g of laundry soap. The resulting solution is sprayed onto cabbage seedlings.

Red pepper

Red hot pepper is a simple and very effective remedy in the fight against insects. You can grind the red pepper pods yourself and immediately sprinkle them on the ants’ homes. This is quite enough for uninvited guests to leave the territory. If you are using a ready-made bag of pepper bought in a store, then you should keep in mind that you need to use a bag that has just been opened. If it is exposed to air for any period of time, its effectiveness will decrease.

Boric acid or borax

The powder is poisonous to ants. A sweet bait is prepared from the powder: add 20 g of fresh yeast and 5 g of boric acid or borax to a small amount of jam. Mix thoroughly and spread the product in areas of accumulation. The ants will enjoy the jam and bring it to their queen. After some time, most of the insects will die. For greater effectiveness, the bait should be changed after a few days. Jam can be replaced with honey or another sweet product.

Boiling water

The simplest and no less effective way is boiling water. Prepare in advance several buckets of very hot water, dig out all the anthills and, preferably, pour boiling water over all places where insects accumulate, as well as their passages. The procedure can be done as often as you like and in the evening, when all the inhabitants have gathered in their home.

Chemicals

Chemical insecticidal agents help to get rid of uninvited guests very effectively and in the shortest possible time thanks to the poisonous components included in the composition. The active substances are organic phosphorus and pyrethroid compounds, which, penetrating into the insect’s body, cause its death.

Grom-2

Judging by reviews from gardeners, the insecticide is a very effective and ready-to-use product. It is produced in the form of granules. The active substance is diazinon. The drug can be used everywhere: in open beds, greenhouses, under trees and shrubs, as well as near buildings. About 3 g of product is enough for 1 anthill. After a maximum of 4 days, you can forget about ants for a long time. The drug is used as follows: remove the top layer of soil, add the recommended amount of product and cover with soil. Cover with plywood or roofing felt. The effect of the drug is designed for 3 months, and the packaging is enough to treat 10 m2.

Ant-eater

The product is very effective against the appearance of red ants, and the active substance is chlorpyrifos, which causes paralysis of insects. According to reviews from summer residents, the product is very convenient to use, and the results of its action are visible already on the second day. In this case, the entire family of pests completely disappears. The product is available in the form of a gel, the taste of which is very attractive to ants. It should be noted that Anteater is safe for bees, birds and animals when used in recommended doses.

One package of the product is designed to treat an area of 5 m2. The gel is applied directly to the anthill and to the places of accumulation. 3 drops per colony will be enough.

Delicia

Delicia is available in powder form containing 10 g of chlorpyrifos per 1 kg of finished product. The product is used both in dry form and in the form of a solution. An insecticide dissolved in water kills the insect when it comes into contact with its body. The dry powder sticks to the ant's body and is delivered directly to the nest, where it is eaten by the larva and queen. Dry powder is used at the rate of 10 g per 1 m2. For the solution, a package of 125 g of the product is diluted in 6 liters of water. The powder is available in packages weighing 125, 375 and 500 g.

When using the dry method, the powder is scattered on ant paths and nests. Since it is quite difficult to determine the location of nests, cracks and crevices in the soil should be treated with special care.

When using a solution, places where insects move are sprayed with the solution. Treatment should be carried out in the morning or evening hours, when all the inhabitants of the family are at home.

Muratsid

The product is aimed at killing ants by damaging the intestines and then the nervous system. The product is produced in ampoules with a dispenser, which is very convenient to use - the dispenser allows you to measure the required amount of insecticide. 1 ml of the drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Complete death of ants can be observed already on the second day after treatment.

The prepared solution is sprayed on dug-up anthills, as well as places where pests accumulate.