Broccoli: growing and care in open ground. Broccoli has turned yellow: Is it possible to eat broccoli that has turned yellow or if it has bloomed? How to properly store broccoli so that it does not turn yellow: tips Why broccoli blooms

The Eastern Mediterranean is the birthplace of broccoli. It was only in the 16th century that broccoli became popular in Europe. When choosing mineral fertilizers, preference should be given to those that contain nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus - these elements are necessary for cabbage to set heads.

The productive organ of broccoli that is eaten is the head, a bunch of flower buds on tender stems. The shape of broccoli is very similar to cauliflower, only the color of its heads is more varied: green, lilac, white, purple. Broccoli is a long-day vegetable crop. If you planted it late, it will bloom quickly. To obtain an early harvest, broccoli seedlings are grown in greenhouses.

Already in early October you can start harvesting broccoli. When growing broccoli, the heads are not shaded. Do not forget to water the broccoli, and also constantly loosen the soil. In hot weather, sprinkler irrigation can be used. If you follow these agrotechnical rules, broccoli will delight you with delicious heads of cabbage. Harvesting broccoli heads begins before the buds open (when they are tightly closed). Harvest the broccoli in two steps. Often at the end of summer, cabbage forks crack, and the top turns from smooth to “ruffy”.

Usually the top of the head cracks in early or mid-season cabbage varieties... Headed cabbage, perhaps more often than other vegetables, suffers from rot both in the soil and during storage. Brussels sprouts are a biennial crop. By the end of the first year of growing season, Brussels sprouts have formed one stem up to seventy centimeters high...

Broccoli seedlings

Of the large group of cabbage plants, our main preference is still given to white cabbage. Why is red cabbage red? All this is due to the high content of anthocyanins, which color the berries, fruits, leaves orange, red,…

Main menu » Articles » Why does broccoli bloom? Many people grow broccoli, but this does not always give the desired result. Sometimes it happens that broccoli blooms too quickly and simply becomes unsuitable for eating. Why does this happen?

In order not to be left without a harvest, it is best to plant this type of cabbage in early May or after July 15th. If you plant broccoli in July, the heads of cabbage will begin to set only in September. This will allow you to get strong, good cabbage forks.

It is also important to provide the cabbage with sufficient water. Lack of moisture also leads to its early flowering. The high percentage of vitamin C, folic acid, potassium, fiber, and antioxidants in broccoli makes this plant a worthy part of a healthy diet. The chlorophyll contained in cabbage has a beneficial effect on blood components, and the pollen on the small heads of cabbage has medicinal properties.

Why does broccoli bloom?

This cabbage is made up of many thin long stalks with small inflorescences at the ends. The shoots taste and look like asparagus, and the heads are looser than those of cauliflower. In our garden plots, broccoli is not so often found, although the crop is unpretentious in cultivation: 17 - 25 ° C is the best temperature for the growth and development of cabbage. Even two thousand years ago, the ancient Romans set aside plots in their gardens for both ordinary kale and broccoli.

The Italian "brocco" means shoot or branch, which is where the name of this cabbage comes from. If we talk about the best varieties of broccoli, it is worth noting the early-ripening “Tonus” and the mid-ripening “Vitaminnaya”. Broccoli is good to plant after legumes, pumpkins, and onions. For this plant, choose light loamy soils rich in humus, with sufficient topsoil and moisture.

If you want to get an early harvest of cabbage, use the appropriate varieties and plant broccoli seedlings in the ground. The seeds of early ripening white cabbage, as well as other varieties, for example, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, kohlrabi, are sown at the end... Broccoli is an annual crop. Broccoli loves watering and feeding.

Our family loves all types of cabbage, but especially broccoli. This transitional form to cauliflower is otherwise called asparagus or shoot. It has been grown in Russia not so long ago.

In Soviet times, only two varieties of seeds were available for sale: Vitamin and Tonus. These are early varieties of broccoli. They form a small, loose central head and almost simultaneously begin to produce lateral shoots in the leaf axils. My acquaintance with this cabbage began with them. And it was unsuccessful.

I then planted a dozen plants. The cabbage grew quickly and tied its head to a fist. While I was waiting for the heads to enlarge, they began to grow quickly and together “went away” into bouquets. At that time I did not yet know that this plant is edible at almost any time of cultivation. We cut off the flower stalks and cut them directly with the flowers, for example, into an omelette.

If the growth is strong, the crushed parts should be lightly simmered under the lid of the frying pan, and then poured with eggs. Young broccoli leaves are equivalent in nutritional value to spinach, sweet potato, and kale.

Broccoli varieties - growing test

Later other varieties appeared on sale.

In one season I experienced several new ones for me - Calabrese, Caesar, Russian Size. The description of which said that the head grows up to 1 kg. This especially impressed me after the earlier varieties. Caesar promised to be 0.6-0.9 kg, Calabrese and Curly Head 0.4-0.6 kg. In a word, I was inspired again.

Sowing Broccoli Seeds

I sow broccoli seeds, like other types of cabbage, in mid-April in open ground, under a film. I pre-soak the seeds in the Epin-extra solution for 2-4 hours. I fill the seeds with hot (up to 50°C) water. This is a seed disinfection technique. When the water has cooled, I add 2-3 drops of Epin per 100 ml.

Having made deep furrows, I lightly compact the soil and water it with humic or pink-colored manganese water. Then I spread out the seeds.

The soil in Samara is heavy and loamy, so I sprinkle the sown seeds with 0.5 cm of river sand (no more than 1 cm) and be sure to pat the rows with my palm - contact with the ground is ensured and can be covered with film. Along the edges and perimeter of the bed I fix the film with bricks. In 5 days there will be shoots. Usually, high-quality seeds germinate in 5-6 days.

If the seeds do not germinate beyond this period, it indicates that they were either sown too deep, or the ground is still too cold for active growth, or the seeds are of poor quality and need to be reseeded. By the way, cabbage seeds can germinate already at +1-2*C. The purple color of the seedlings indicates a constant cold growing regime, which happens when sowing early on an uninsulated bed and in cold weather.

When I get my seeds from cabbage mother plants in the fall, I make sure to calibrate them on a strainer with 1-1.5 mm cells. This technique guarantees uniform germination. I don't use the fine fraction. Calibration for me is a mandatory final step before planting seeds for winter storage.

Broccoli is a cold-resistant crop, but I’m in no hurry to sow cauliflower; it loves warmth and daytime temperatures of 9-12°C. If cauliflower gets 10-14 days of “cold standing” during the seedling period, then don’t expect good heads from early-ripening varieties , it will go into color en masse! Once, precisely because of this, I received 30 gorgeous “bouquets” of cauliflower, so I had to “gift” them to the neighbor’s goats. Such cabbage is not left for seeds. (How to grow cauliflower seeds and broccoli, I’ll tell you next time.)

So about broccoli...

Since I make deep furrows when sowing, I do not remove the film until the plants enlarge the false leaves to full-color ones. In recent years there have been no major frosts in our area, and I completely remove the film when the first true leaf appears. Young seedlings can withstand frosts down to -2"C, adult seedlings - up to -7"C.

When watering from a watering can, the soil becomes crumbly. I look at the stem of cabbage seedlings: when it grows larger, it means it’s time to carry out the first hilling and loosening. I sprinkle the cabbage seedlings in the bed with soil between the rows, and fill the resulting ditch with humus. And I immediately water it from a watering can. The seedlings are growing smoothly! This is especially important and advantageous when selling seedlings on the market. I repeat hilling and loosening as necessary.

Transplanting to a permanent bed

At the age of 35-45 days, I plant plants with 5-6 leaves on a permanent bed, taking into account that broccoli, like all cabbage plants, requires a sunny location.

I form holes at a distance of 60 x 60 or 60 x 70 cm, add humus and a handful or two of river sand. I use compost as a modeling material if there is not enough humus. When I mulch, I make sure that the humus does not touch the stem, since, apparently, in the heat, contact with hot humus causes a burn on the stem, and in this place the stalk then rots. Therefore, I advise you: the humus from the stem should be at a distance of at least 3-5 cm.

In garden literature, for early varieties of broccoli, a distance between plants of 20-25 cm is recommended. Perhaps this is suitable for field planting of agricultural farms with high-tech fertilizing and a single cut of the heads. In my practice, every year I have observed powerful plants that need a sufficient area of ​​nutrition, therefore, like cabbage, I plant according to the scheme of at least 60 x 60 cm.

Broccoli food

In addition to loosening and watering, I feed broccoli with complex fertilizers containing microelements. It especially needs boron and molybdenum, which are necessary during the period of crop formation. During this period, a lot of phosphorus and nitrogen are required. With a sufficient amount of them in the soil, plants form a larger head, which mainly corresponds to mid- and late-ripening hybrids. But the Tonus variety is early; in fact, no matter how you feed it, you won’t grow a large head. Therefore, the correct choice of variety is very important.

If there is a lack of boron during the growth and maturation of cabbage plants, they experience splitting of the stem core.

With a lack of molybdenum, the leaves are deformed, become narrow, twisted, and the inflorescences are underdeveloped. That's why I always use complex fertilizers.

Broccoli: benefits and medicinal properties

And in conclusion of my agricultural advice, I will say a few words of praise about broccoli. This cabbage is valuable for its high biological activity, easily digestible proteins, the content of which exceeds their presence in potatoes, corn and, again, in fashion today. Moreover, its protein contains no less essential amino acids than beef.

The protein contains anti-sclerotic substances choline and methionine, which prevent the accumulation of “bad” cholesterol. In terms of carotene content, broccoli follows immediately after carrots, but cauliflower does not contain it.

The fiber of the broccoli head is tender and provides a soft “broom for the intestines.” The favorable combination of vitamins, pectin, and mineral salts makes broccoli especially valuable for people with cardiovascular diseases, nervous disorders, liver and kidney diseases. It is even used in the treatment of radiation sickness, as it removes radioactive substances.

Another argument in favor of growing this cabbage is that broccoli is a product included in the anti-cancer diet, designed to enrich the human diet with adaptogens and foods with useful information. This diet was compiled by the World Cancer Research Fund and the US National Academy of Sciences. The list includes group II, with cruciferous crops in second place: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, white cabbage, red cabbage, watercress, all types of radishes, turnips, horseradish. Broccoli is a powerful preventive barrier, since the sulforaphane it contains kills even bacteria that antibiotics cannot combat.

With all the advantages of broccoli, we can only remind you of its contraindications for those who suffer from diseases of the pancreas and have high acidity, as well as in cases of individual intolerance, which, unfortunately, also happens.

If someone in the family cannot eat broccoli, do not deprive others of such a healthy dietary product! After all, even caring for and watching its growth, watering large heads gives great pleasure. Good luck!

Let's grow our own broccoli!

Despite the fact that broccoli is a fairly early ripening cabbage, I grow it through seedlings, which I plant in open ground in May.

FAMILY

Cruciferous

CYCLE

annual plant

DESCRIPTION

The stem is 60-90 cm high at the top and forms many peduncles ending in dense groups of small green buds collected in a small loose head

CROP ROTATION

To prevent broccoli from getting clubroot, it is not planted after cruciferous vegetables (turnips, radishes and other types of cabbage). The best predecessors are beans, peas, potatoes, tomatoes, onions

I sow the seeds at the beginning of April: I choose the largest ones and soak them in a damp cloth. I take ready-made universal soil for seedlings or make it myself: I mix turf soil, humus, sand and ash by eye. The soil should be loose and easily allow moisture to pass through. Stagnation of water when growing any cabbage (although cabbage loves moisture very much) is unacceptable - it will cause blackleg disease.

Planting Around mid-May (30-40 days after sowing), I plant the seedlings in a permanent place. At the same time, my bushes are large, about 20 cm, with 4-5 good leaves and strong fibrous roots - such seedlings will quickly take root and grow. If I haven’t prepared the bed in advance, when planting, I add a handful of ash and humus to each hole and mix it with the soil. I don’t bury the seedlings too deep (only up to the first true leaves), I press the soil tightly against the roots so that there are no voids left, and I water them abundantly.

2-2.5 months after germination, edible inflorescence heads are formed, which are cut off without waiting for the flowers to develop

TIP: I choose a place for broccoli in partial shade, because it does not like heat and needs cool weather (+18...+22 degrees). Soils are better neutral or alkaline. Sour ones, which broccoli does not like, must be deoxidized with lime or chalk.

Straight to the garden

Broccoli seeds can be sown directly into the ground in a permanent place: from mid-May to June. In the plot for broccoli, I mark holes according to a 50x50 cm pattern. I put a few seeds in each (then I leave the best shoots) and water them well. The harvest with this method ripens in August and September. At the same time, the seedlings do not fall under the mass emergence of cruciferous flea beetles, as in early spring, and can safely grow additional shoots until October, when the weather is already cool and rainy.

Broccoli care

Some people believe that you don’t need to spoil broccoli much with water, because it can withstand drought better than other types of cabbage. But while the heads are growing, I still water it regularly - the yield will be higher. I make sure to mulch the soil in the broccoli bed - this way the soil will not dry out and overheat longer (the crop does not like extreme heat), and there will be fewer weeds. 20 days after planting broccoli, I feed it with a solution of mullein (1:10), bird droppings (1:12) or any ready-made mineral fertilizer for cabbage. I bring them in carefully so as not to touch the leaves, otherwise you can cause them to burn. In the first feeding, I pour 0.5 liters into the hole, in the second, after 15-20 days, 1 liter.

BENEFITS OF BROCCOLI

  • Broccoli is useful for those who gain strength after an illness or who are tormented by an ulcer: cabbage speeds up its healing.
  • This cabbage improves appetite and digestion, stimulates the secretion of bile.
  • In terms of the amount of carotene, broccoli is second only to carrots.
  • Regular addition of broccoli to food prevents the development of atherosclerosis and improves heart function.

Recipes with broccoli

Casserole

Boil 200 g of broccoli until half cooked and place in a mold. Mix 4 eggs with 50 ml of milk, crushed garlic clove, salt. Grate 130 g of cheese and add 2/3 to the egg mixture. Pour the mixture over the vegetables, sprinkle with the remaining cheese and herbs. Bake in the oven until done.

Pickled

Wash 1 kg of broccoli, separate into florets, blanch for about 5 minutes, then put in cold water. Place in sterilized jars and pour in marinade (boil 1 liter of water, add 1 tbsp sugar,

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  • Broccoli is, indeed, unpretentious to grow; caring for it is no more difficult, perhaps even easier, than its other relatives. In terms of the number of useful elements included in its composition, it surpasses not only cabbage and cauliflower, but most cultivated species of this family. But for some reason it is not as widespread here as in Canada, America, Japan and Western Europe. It would seem that it is easy to grow, minimal care, the composition is healthy, it is not afraid of even cold weather, maybe there is simply not enough information?

    Broccoli was known back in ancient Rome. Through Byzantium it spread throughout the world. Since then, it has been cultivated with constant success in almost all countries. Very similar in appearance to cauliflower, broccoli grows from 60 cm to 1 m in height, usually grown as an annual plant, but in warm climates, if you do not dig it up for the winter, it produces an excellent harvest the following year.

    Food includes small, dense inflorescences collected in one large head, the stem itself (if it is not hollow or hard), and young leaves, which are much smaller and more tender than those of cauliflower. There is also asparagus broccoli, which has many stems and small heads of inflorescences on them. It differs from cauliflower in the color of the heads - green and purple are the most common, and in the remarkable ability to form new heads after cutting off one that has grown on the central stem.

    Since we eat the flowers themselves, it is very important to cut off the heads before they bloom. The process of flowering and fruit formation in broccoli goes very quickly; if you allow at least one inflorescence to open, a small yellow flower will appear, which will quickly fade and turn into a fruit pod. If you allow it to bloom, then the harvest can be immediately sent to the compost heap - with the blooming of at least one flower, the entire head loses its taste, tenderness and most of its useful components.

    Composition and beneficial properties

    They say that if you eat broccoli regularly, you will not be afraid of atherosclerosis, your heart and blood vessels will work perfectly. And this is very likely to be true, since it contains a large amount of potassium and antioxidants, in particular selenium. Calcium, sodium, phosphorus and iron, zinc, copper and manganese - a very impressive list of elements necessary for our body for normal functioning, all of them are contained in this type of cabbage and, most importantly, are easily digestible. Broccoli contains very important amino acids, carbohydrates and dietary fiber, but it has almost no fat and contains very few calories. This explains its popularity among those who watch their weight.


    An amazing multivitamin complex is included in its composition; only 100 g of cabbage contains the daily requirement of vitamin C, which is twice as much as in citrus fruits. A large amount of pantothenic acid, riboflavin, pyridoxine, folic acid and thiamine (B vitamins) make it indispensable for maintaining a normal nervous system and for treating problems in this area. But it also contains vitamins PP, E, K, which promote health and beauty.

    Constant consumption of broccoli will protect you better than any medicine from peptic ulcers of the gastrointestinal tract, keep your blood vessels clean and elastic, and your heart and kidneys healthy.

    Thanks to the presence of sulforaphane, its use can prevent cancer. If you supplement your body with such a powerful vitamin and mineral complex, then it will not be afraid of any viruses or seasonal colds. Young broccoli leaves are similar in taste and composition to kale or even spinach, and the heads of inflorescences are superior in the amount of nutrients to cauliflower, its closest relative.

    There are no contraindications for eating broccoli, but still, if you have an unhealthy pancreas or hyperacid gastritis, you need to limit the consumption of this type of cabbage so as not to provoke an exacerbation of the disease. But after boiling it, it is better to pour out the broth - purine bases will pass into it, which will not bring any benefit to the body.

    Video “Growing Broccoli”

    This video shows how to properly harvest broccoli.

    Features of cultivation

    Broccoli is best grown at temperatures from +16 to +24 degrees, but it can easily survive short-term frosts down to -7 degrees or heat above +30, you just have to water it more often. Early varieties ripen within 60 days from the moment the first sprouts appear, and late varieties grow up to 120 days. Since it does not require burdensome care, it is quite possible to plant ripening varieties in your garden and enjoy healthy cabbage from the end of June until the fall, and put the latest large heads in the cellar for long-term storage, where they can lie for up to 3 months.

    Usually it is grown in open ground, but it can be grown in greenhouses until November. Most often, seedlings are planted in open ground, but you can sow seeds directly into the garden bed and cover them with glass or non-woven material until seedlings appear, and then open them, then carry out normal care. The seeds are first calibrated, the smallest ones are discarded, and then prepared in this way: placed in hot water for 15 minutes, then in cold water for 1 minute, then soaked for 5 hours in a solution of ash, potassium permanganate or boric acid. Some gardeners prefer to soak in a solution of mineral fertilizers or preparations “Agat-25”, “Albit”, “El-1”. The seeds removed from the solution are slightly dried so that they do not stick to your hands when sowing.

    If summer comes late and spring is cold, then it is better to stop growing by seedlings. The soil is prepared from three equal parts - garden soil, peat and sand. Two seeds are placed in each hole to a depth of 2 cm, and after a pair of true leaves appear, the weaker sprout is removed, the same is done when sowing in a garden bed. At first, the crops are kept at a temperature of about +20 degrees, even covered from direct sunlight. Caring for them is quite ordinary - watering, picking, fertilizing, hardening. They dive after 3 weeks, while simultaneously treating the roots with a solution of potassium permanganate. The first time is fed a week after germination with a solution of mullein or urea, then after 2 weeks - with a solution of nitroammophosphate. The temperature is gradually lowered to +14 degrees during the day, and 2 weeks before planting in open ground, seedlings begin to be taken outside.

    Seedlings are planted in the garden after 6 true leaves appear. Broccoli will grow well in open sunny places after cucumbers, carrots, potatoes, onions, pumpkins or legumes in non-acidic soil. The soil has been prepared since the fall - compost, humus, and lime are added for digging. When planting seedlings, you can add ash, superphosphate, and urea directly to the holes. Plants are buried to the middle of the stem. It is better to plant according to the scheme 40 cm - by 60 cm; this is done in cloudy weather, since the bed must be very moist.

    Caring for seedlings includes watering, weeding, loosening, and fertilizing. This cabbage loves moisture, usually when growing young plants, they are watered every other day; if the weather is dry and sunny, you can water them twice a day. After watering, be sure to loosen the soil to allow air to reach the roots.

    As soon as the seedlings have taken root, they are fed with a solution of slurry or bird droppings (highly diluted). After a couple of weeks, the procedure is repeated. And the third feeding is done with proper care, when the inflorescences begin to form. This time, mineral fertilizers are used: superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, potassium sulfate, dissolved in water. If you cut off the central head in time, the side shoots will begin to grow and form new inflorescence heads. To stimulate their growth, use the same fertilizers in lower concentrations, only preference is given to potassium sulfate. Nettle tincture or ash solution is usually used in the care of broccoli as a top dressing, at the same time as disease prevention.

    The harvest is harvested early in the morning, while the plants are still vigorous and succulent; it is very important to cut off the stem with inflorescences before even one flower blooms. In a month, it will be possible to cut an additional harvest from the same plants - new inflorescences will form on the side shoots. You just need to maintain the same care - water, loosen, feed. If you grow late varieties and harvest in the fall, you can store it in the cellar for another 3 months; the harvest harvested in the summer should be eaten immediately or frozen.

    Diseases and pests

    When growing broccoli, it is difficult to do without pests, but proper care, compliance with sanitary standards and preventive methods will help protect plants from diseases and drive away pests. If you don't have cruciferous plants growing nearby, cabbage's usual enemies may not get to your broccoli. Slugs, snails, cruciferous flea beetles, cutworms, aphids, whites, cabbage flies - they are all not averse to profiting from tender juicy cabbage. Garlic, onions, tomatoes, calendula, and dill can repel most pests, so it’s worth planting them nearby.

    There are simple infusions and solutions known to experienced gardeners that perfectly help protect plantings. An ash solution, an infusion of tobacco dust with the addition of hot pepper and liquid soap, is used to treat not only the plants, but also the ground around them. You can also prepare an infusion of tomato leaves with crushed garlic, adding liquid soap to it. Well, the ubiquitous caterpillars need to be collected manually; some gardeners use thin lutrasil to cover plants.

    If agrotechnical rules are not followed, cabbage may be susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew, downy mildew, clubroot, blackleg or Alternaria. It must be remembered that the spores that spread fungal diseases are found in the ground and overwinter among the roots of perennial grasses. Therefore, it is very important to monitor the condition of the soil and destroy weeds. Of course, there are special drugs that will kill the fungus, but it is better to use harmless folk remedies if the infection is detected at the very beginning. An infusion of thistle, a decoction of horsetail, a mixture of liquid soap and a solution of copper sulfate - these sprays will not harm the cabbage, but will defeat diseases.

    Video “Features of growing broccoli”

    This video reveals the features of growing the Rumba broccoli hybrid.

    Svetlana

    When is it better to plant broccoli - spring or fall?

    This generally depends on the variety, region and time of planting. Broccoli grows best when temperatures range from 5 to 21? C. The plant needs low temperatures to ripen during the cold season, so planting is generally done in late summer and harvest in the fall. In spring, broccoli needs to be planted early enough to be harvested before warmer temperatures arrive. Temperature - 4? C and below can damage or completely destroy the plant.

    How do I know when my broccoli is ready to harvest?

    Broccoli should be harvested when the plant's individual flower buds are the size of a pinhead, dark green and unopened, and have a firm consistency. If yellow bracts begin to appear and broccoli flowers begin to open, then they have lost their quality. Broccoli inflorescences depend on the crop variety, growing season and amount of fertilizer. Most homegrown broccoli reaches a diameter of 8-15 cm.

    Can you grow broccoli in containers?

    Yes. To do this, you need to use a container with a volume of at least 18 liters and a diameter of at least 45 cm.

    Yellow spots appear on the upper side of the leaves growing in broccoli, and a mossy growth has appeared on the lower part of the leaves. What does it mean?

    This is one of the forms of fungal disease. Some varieties of broccoli are resistant to this disease. In order to eliminate problems, you can spray fungicides on the leaves. Spraying should begin as soon as symptoms appear and repeat as recommended on the fungicide package.

    How to control pests on broccoli buds?

    These are probably cabbage pests that can be eliminated using biological pesticides containing the bacteria - Bacillus Thuringiensis (Bt). The bacteria must be eaten by the pests and activated within them. Pests die slowly, that is, within 2-3 days they completely disappear from broccoli.

    For some reason, the broccoli quickly began to turn into small yellow flowers soon after they were planted, and the inflorescences were small. What is the reason?

    The culprit is hot weather. The plant quickly enters the seed ripening stage. Broccoli blooms quickly at temperatures above 26? C. Planting occurred very late if it was done in the spring, or very early if you planted cabbage in the summer. It is recommended to cut off broccoli buds before the flowers bloom, no matter how small they are.

    What should you do if your broccoli buds are slightly discolored and covered in mucus?

    Unfavorable natural conditions, such as high temperature, during the formation of buds discolor them. This phenomenon has been observed in hybrid varieties. Planting at the right time and providing proper care will avoid this problem.

    After cutting off the broccoli buds, the stem of the plant has a hole where water accumulates, causing them to rot after harvest. What can be done?

    The holes in the stems can no longer be repaired. This phenomenon is caused by boron deficiency and can be corrected by adding boron to the soil the following year.

    Is it normal that the secondary broccoli florets are smaller and probably need fertilizer?

    The central inflorescence of broccoli buds is always the largest, with secondary inflorescences measuring about 40 mm. Fertilizing will help increase the size of the inflorescences, but only slightly. However, small inflorescences are located in the axils of the leaves, and in the total mass they are no less than in the central inflorescence.

    Some of the plants don't have broccoli florets but look healthy. What's wrong?

    If broccoli's growing point is damaged, the plant cannot produce flower heads. This may occur due to damage to the plants during transportation, planting, or by insects in the garden.

    Bark and peat for mulching broccoli? What other types of mulch can be used?

    Although peat is sometimes used to improve soil, it is not suitable for mulching and can draw moisture from the ground. Not every bark is used for mulching. If it is pine, then it is not suitable for these purposes. It is best to use old (several years old) sawdust, rotted manure, dry grass (weeds) without seeds.

    I planted broccoli again in August. The leaves are very healthy and large, such that I added several of the lower leaves to salads. Now that the bud inflorescences are about to appear, will this cause some damage to the further development of the buds?

    For the development of the plant, it is necessary to leave leaves that can feed the plant (photosynthesis) and contribute to its further development, the formation of inflorescences of buds, for which you grow broccoli.

    Sometimes in the summer, broccoli blooms very quickly and after that it becomes unsuitable for food. How to properly grow broccoli to get a quality product?

    The productive organ of broccoli that is eaten is the head, a bunch of flower buds on tender stems. The shape of broccoli is very similar to cauliflower, only the color of its heads is more varied: green, lilac, white, purple.

    Broccoli refers to If you plant it late, it will bloom quickly. High and low air temperatures, lack of moisture in the soil and air, and lack of nutrients in the soil sharply reduce the yield and quality of products and lead to rapid flowering of broccoli.

    Broccoli is an annual crop. From planting seedlings to harvesting, only 35-55 days pass. The optimal temperature for growing broccoli is +16 +25 o C, high soil humidity ensures high productivity and quick yield.

    Broccoli seedlings

    To obtain an early harvest, broccoli seedlings are grown in greenhouses. You can also grow cabbage seedlings at home, while maintaining air humidity and the necessary coolness. Seedlings should not be allowed to overgrow, since it is no longer possible to obtain high-quality heads from it. The best seedlings are considered to be 35-45 days old.

    Sowing broccoli seeds in the soil

    Broccoli can be grown by sowing seeds directly into the soil in April or at the end of July. When planting broccoli seeds in summer, the setting of heads of cabbage begins in September, when the heat has already subsided and the necessary coolness sets in for the cabbage. Already in early October you can start harvesting broccoli.

    When planting broccoli Rotted manure is added to the hole, as well as mineral fertilizers containing not only nitrogen, but also phosphorus and potassium, which are necessary for setting heads of cabbage.

    Maintain the optimal distance: between plants in a row there should be 20 - 30 centimeters, between rows 60 - 70 centimeters. When sowing seeds, the optimal distance between plants is achieved through thinning. When growing broccoli, the heads are not shaded.

    Do not forget to water the broccoli, and also constantly loosen the soil. In hot weather, sprinkler irrigation can be used. If you follow these agrotechnical rules, broccoli will delight you with delicious heads of cabbage.

    Harvesting broccoli heads begins before the buds open (when they are tightly closed). They are cut off along with a part of the stem 10-20 centimeters long, which is also used for food.

    Harvest the broccoli in two steps. The mass of the central head together with the mass of the side heads ranges from one hundred grams to a kilogram.

    After harvesting, the heads are quickly sold or stored in the refrigerator, protecting them from yellowing. The heads are stored for storage in the phase of incomplete maturity in the presence of covering leaves. Broccoli very much.

    What are garden beds without your favorite cabbage? Summer residents and gardeners enjoy growing various types of it. Both tasty and healthy broccoli is no exception. Not so long ago it was an outlandish foreign novelty, but now it is everywhere in garden beds. But why broccoli often fades into arrow (color) is not well known to all gardeners.

    Often, it seems that all gardeners are doing all the right agricultural techniques, they planted the seedlings on time, but there are no ovaries on the cabbage. Broccoli does not set in any way, but en masse goes into color. The reasons can be both individual and complex. The main thing is to know how to quickly fix this this season, and how to protect cabbage for next year. And beautiful and tasty heads of cabbage will not keep you waiting.

    Reasons for the lack of ovary:

    1. Insufficient and infrequent watering of plantings.
    2. Unsuitable temperature conditions (air temperature too high or low).
    3. Nutrient deficiency in the soil and untimely fertilizing.
    4. Too much nitrogen applied to the soil and leaves.
    5. Error in selecting cabbage varieties for cultivation.

    And also problems when cultivating broccoli arise due to:

    1. Too dark area, lack of direct sunlight.
    2. The acidity of the soil also affects. On acidic soils, you should not expect beautiful and tasty heads of cabbage.
    3. Heavy soils that impede oxygen access to the roots are also not suitable.

    Lack of moisture in the soil

    Broccoli is a moisture-loving crop. Especially a lot of moisture is required at the time of formation of the leaf rosette and, of course, when the heads are set. And also at the time of ovary and ripening of the heads, it is recommended to bring the air humidity to 80-85%. Otherwise, the foliage will become smaller and the inflorescences themselves will become loose. The frequency of watering during the hot season should be at least every other day.

    Moreover, the earthen ball in the root zone should get wet to a depth of 40 centimeters. Loamy soil is optimal for growing, but it is also possible to grow on sandy loam. You should also not forget about alternating root watering with sprinkling watering. Especially if the air humidity is low. But with high humidity, you need to watch out for the appearance of caterpillars, snails and slugs on the leaves. For them, cabbage is one of their favorite delicacies.


    Unsuitable temperature

    The ability of broccoli to set heads is greatly influenced by weather conditions. If the weather in summer is cold and humid, or, conversely, there is high heat and widespread drought, then you can’t hope for a good harvest. To successfully grow cabbage and reap a rich harvest, it is necessary to take into account the influence of the temperature factor.

    1. Broccoli really does not like sudden temperature changes.
    2. Dry air and intense heat also contribute to cabbage blooming.
    3. In extreme heat, it is necessary to grow plants under significant shade. It is also necessary to shade young plants from the scorching sun.
    4. Optimal temperature for growing: +16C, +18C degrees, and humidity not less than 60%.
    5. At air temperatures above +25 C degrees, cabbage is likely to begin to bloom.

    Nutrient deficiency

    Fertile soils with a neutral acidity level or slightly alkaline are suitable for growing broccoli. The danger is a deficiency or, conversely, an excess of nutrients in the soil. An excess of nitrogen provokes rapid growth of the vegetative mass. As a result, the cabbage heads do not set, the plant “fattens”, the trunk increases in length, and large leaves grow rapidly.

    And, on the contrary, on poor soils and in the absence of additional fertilizing, the heads will not set.

    This plant consumes a lot of nitrogen and potassium from the soil. If the soil is not over-fertilized, in the fall the beds are prepared for spring planting of cabbage. Apply up to 10 kilograms of organic matter (rotted manure) and 50 grams of granular phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

    It is necessary to ensure compliance with crop rotation, and do not grow cabbage after related plants from the cruciferous family. When choosing green manure, you need to take into account that mustard is not suitable in this case. It and cabbage belong to the same family, so there may be similar diseases. The best predecessors are legumes, potatoes or carrots.

    Mistakes when choosing a variety

    The harvest for the season directly depends on the correct choice of variety. Broccoli, on average, takes a month or a month and a half (30-55 days) from planting seedlings to harvesting. It is important not to delay planting the crop. The gardener chooses the timing himself, depending on the region where the site is located and how early the heat sets in in the region. For example, in the southern regions it is advisable to grow early ripening varieties. Then the risk of the crop being exposed to the peak summer heat will be reduced.


    Particular attention should be paid to the quality of planting material. Weak, low-quality seedlings or poor, small seeds can cause low yields. It is strictly forbidden to collect seeds from diseased plants. Before sowing self-harvested seeds, they must be sifted (calibrated) and the largest ones must be planted.

    The first signs of cabbage going into color

    Broccoli has dark green, dense heads consisting of small, closed buds. It’s not difficult to understand when the cabbage has gone into color. During the formation period, you need to monitor the general condition of the head of cabbage itself. Immediately before flowering, its shoots acquire a yellowish color. Initially, the head is covered with uneven, yellow-brown spots. And then the head of cabbage acquires this color.


    If the cabbage is already covered in color, its tasting characteristics become minimal. And cutting it off makes no sense. The heads become simply unsuitable for food. But blooming broccoli does not cause any harm to the human body or animals. It can only be used as livestock feed.

    How to prevent broccoli from blooming. Feeding rules

    First of all, you need not to overexpose the cabbage in the beds. Broccoli must be harvested on time. Otherwise, quite quickly after ripening, it is completely covered with “beautiful” yellow flowers. But what to do with cabbage that is already preparing to bloom?

    First of all, you should not rush to uproot the plants. It is necessary to cut out the central head. In most varieties, after such an operation, additional heads of cabbage actively grow from the lateral sinuses. And the harvest obtained in this way will be quite significant. If possible, at the first sign of flowering, the crop should be harvested and stored in a cool room. This will help stop further flowering.

    To prevent flowering heads, abundant and regular watering is required. As well as complete, comprehensive “nutrition” of plants. A minimum of 2 treatments are required. Ideally, gardeners feed broccoli 4 times per season.

    24 Sep. 2014 22:19

    Broccoli is extremely healthy; many gardeners grow it. But this year, the editors began to receive questions: why doesn’t broccoli tie its heads?

    Broccoli is native to the Mediterranean. The British called it Italian asparagus, since its young shoots up to 15 cm long are also eaten along with the heads, and this cabbage became popular only in the early 1920s in America. They began to grow it in Russia not so long ago.

    This is a cold-resistant plant, develops well at temperatures of +16...+20°C and can withstand frosts down to - 7°C. Despite the fact that broccoli is less demanding on soil composition and heat, and at the same time much more productive than cauliflower, there are some nuances and tricks in its cultivation, although the process itself, in general, is not complicated.

    The timing of its planting is very important! Compared to cauliflower, it is more sensitive to elevated temperatures. Broccoli is an early ripening crop; depending on the variety, it forms heads in 20-25, and produces a harvest in 27-35 days after planting the seedlings in the ground. With early planting, the period from planting to the start of harvesting extends to 40-50 days. And here is the main secret of growing broccoli: heads are formed only at temperatures up to 18°C. It turns out that if we plant it with seeds, for example, in early May, then transplant it, it will begin to form a head by the end of June, and maybe at the beginning of July. But at this time it is usually already hot here, at best 7 - 8 degrees above +18 degrees! Therefore, the plant sits and waits for favorable times.

    In addition, broccoli, like all cabbages, is a moisture-loving plant. In dry times with insufficient watering, its development is inhibited, and the formed green inflorescences quickly bloom. Therefore, in the summer heat it is important to water the plant abundantly and in a timely manner. The inflorescences are cut off without waiting for the mass of the head indicated on the package with the seeds. For example, the recommended weight of the head is 400 g, and it is better to cut it with a weight of 350 g (although, of course, you cannot determine these 50 g by eye). Before flowering, the inflorescences become loose and turn slightly yellow; as soon as these signs begin to appear, you can no longer hesitate! The more powerful the plant itself, the larger its head (8-25 cm in diameter, its size is sometimes reported on the packaging). On sunny summer days, you can shade broccoli, just like cauliflower: break the leaves or tie them over the head, but keep in mind that then you will need to look under these leaves so as not to miss the harvest time.
    Broccoli inflorescences are cut with a knife without touching the side leaves. At this time, it is recommended to feed the plant a little. Soon side shoots will appear from the leaf axils. Their inflorescences will be smaller, but in taste they will not be inferior to the main “head of cabbage”.

    In the fall, in cool, damp weather, broccoli does not bloom for a long time, growing its green, fleshy central head. Therefore, in our areas, it is better to grow broccoli in such a way that the inflorescences are set in May or September, when there is no summer heat.

    By the way, if broccoli is grown by seedlings, compliance with the temperature and watering conditions is mandatory, otherwise the seedlings will stretch out and the weak plant will not be able to set heads.

    ,

    A healthy and nutritious vegetable has long become a familiar dish for many of our compatriots. Rich in protein, vitamins and various valuable nutrients, the culture is not only a storehouse of vitamins, but also the basis of many delicious dishes. Anyone who loves nutritious nutrition with benefits for the body and wants to eat cabbage heads from their own summer cottage needs to know everything about broccoli, growing and caring for it in open ground, which is not difficult.

    An annual from the Brassica family. A low plant with a stem length of up to 60 centimeters. Its top is crowned with a large number of peduncles with buds. They form a loose surface of the heads. Unlike cauliflower, of which it is a variety, the plant has small, corrugated leaves.

    Asia Minor and the eastern part of the Mediterranean coast are considered the homeland. This vegetable crop was known in ancient times. Residents of the Roman Empire grew it in their fields. Then the inhabitants of the eternal city brought the vegetable to Byzantium. From there it spread throughout the world. Nowadays it is grown everywhere and has gained popularity.

    Know! Scientists believe that this type of cabbage never existed in nature. It is believed to be a hybrid. It was cultivated in the Mediterranean back in the 6th-5th centuries. BC. And after several centuries, the vegetable began to spread throughout the world.

    Types and varieties of broccoli

    There are two types of this vegetable crop:

    • Calabrese;
    • Italian (asparagus).

    The first variety is a familiar head of cabbage, consisting of many inflorescences. The second option is stems with thick heads. The taste of the plant is very similar to asparagus. This is where the name of the species comes from. More than 200 varieties are known. In Russia, five of them are included in the state register.

    Early

    After a period of spring vitamin deficiency, these varieties allow you to enrich your diet with useful minerals and vitamins:

    1. Lord F1 – heads can appear until the onset of autumn cold weather. forms dark green heads until frost. Individual heads of cabbage reach one and a half kilograms.
    2. Linda - after cutting off the main large heads (each weighing half a kilo), it forms an additional 6 lateral heads.
    3. Vitamin - it takes about 80 days to ripen. The main head weighs on average 200 g, the side ones can reach up to 5 cm in diameter.
    4. Tone - ripens early and very well. The lateral heads grow back very quickly.

    Attention! The harvest obtained from early ripening varieties cannot be stored in the refrigerator for more than two weeks to avoid manifestations of gastrointestinal disorders.

    Mid-season

    They allow you to diversify the table in the fall and are delicious when fermented:

    1. Monterey is a medium-late ripening hybrid variety with a very large head of cabbage. Its weight can reach 2 kg. Does not form side shoots.
    2. Arcadia is a medium-ripening hybrid. Resistant to cold weather - grows and develops well. The heads are large.
      Calabrese is frost-resistant, can withstand cold temperatures down to -7°C. It will take 85 days from the appearance of young shoots to harvest.
    3. Fortuna F1 is a high-yielding hybrid, the weight of the heads reaches two hundred grams. Rich in vitamin A and has a soft, delicate taste.
    4. Gnome is ideal for fermentation; the ripening process takes seventy-five days. Compact plant, the weight of the heads is 300 g.

    Late ripening

    Allows you to enjoy vegetables in winter:

    1. Parthenon F1 – grown by seedling method. From young shoots planted in the ground in May, ripe heads are obtained within 90 days. High-yielding variety.
    2. Agassi F1 is a hybrid with a long shelf life (up to 5 months). From planting seedlings to harvesting – seventy days.
      Continental – excellent taste and good keeping quality. At the same time, the weight of the head of cabbage is about five hundred grams.
    3. Marathon F1 - the plant does not like high temperatures, mainly grown in the northern regions. The first heads of cabbage ripen 85 days after transplanting the young bushes.

    Features of growing broccoli

    There are several options for harvesting:

    • through seedlings obtained at home;
    • seedling method when growing young animals in a greenhouse or greenhouse;
    • direct sowing in open ground.

    Priming

    It is preferable to carry out preliminary preparation of the site. In the fall, it is dug up and at the same time a full range of fertilizers of various origins is applied. You can add not only minerals, but also organic matter.
    In the process of laying the foundations for the future harvest, the plant requires significant amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus. On spring days, on the eve of transplanting seedlings, it is necessary to get rid of weeds and treat the planted area with ammonium nitrate.

    The yield also depends on the acid-base indicator of the substrate. It should be in the pH range of 6-7. That is, the soil must have a neutral reaction. If the soil is acidic enough, the heads will become saturated with toxic substances. They will have an increased content of heavy metal salts.

    To determine the pH balance, you will need a litmus strip. If necessary, to reduce acidity by one unit, you will need to add three kilos of manure per square area.

    Know! Neutral soil type has a beneficial effect on various types of crops. The soil acquires the necessary looseness, becomes airy and it is easier for the roots to breathe in such conditions.

    Temperature

    The cold resistance of a crop does not indicate the possibility of successful cultivation in open ground under harsh climatic conditions. Sowing traditionally takes place at the end of May. The soil temperature should reach 20⁰C.

    Humidity

    Cabbage requires plenty of watering. But if the substrate is too moist, the bushes can become infected and develop a dangerous disease - blackleg. This will ruin the harvest. If the degree of irrigation is insufficient, the heads of cabbage will be too small and loose.

    Important! To maintain the proper level of humidity, plantings are mulched. This prevents the rapid evaporation of water immediately after irrigation.

    How to Grow Broccoli from Seeds

    The seedling method of harvesting is deservedly popular. Sowing is carried out 35 days before planting the seedlings in the garden.

    When to sow seeds

    To get the first heads of cabbage early, experienced gardeners grow the queen of the beds through seedlings. Plant growth occurs most intensively on cool days. In hot summer conditions, the development of culture is suspended. In this regard, in the southern regions its cultivation is hampered by unsuitable weather conditions.

    It is worth starting sowing in winter. In this case, by the beginning of spring you can get strong young animals. Such healthy seedlings will quickly take root and grow.

    Soil requirements

    The culture prefers a substrate consisting of turf soil, sand, and peat. All components must be mixed in equal parts. It is not advisable to include in the composition a soil layer taken directly from the garden, as well as humus, in order to avoid damage to seedlings by blackleg.

    To disinfect the substrate, it can be heated in a water bath or processed in the microwave. It is better to carry out this procedure two weeks before the intended sowing. In this case, the soil microflora will have time to recover.

    Important! Do not forget about the need for a drainage layer. Expanded clay or small pebbles can be placed at the bottom of the container.

    How to select and prepare seeds for sowing

    Bagged seeds purchased at the store are already prepared for planting. If you collect seed yourself, it must be processed.

    First, the grains are sorted. Small ones are rejected, and large ones are left. To swell, they are soaked for twenty minutes in warm water. Then the seeds will need to be left for eight hours in a weak pink solution of sodium permanganate. Carrying out this procedure will provide disinfection and protection against various diseases. Instead of potassium permanganate, you can use boric acid (half a gram per liter of water) or ash (one large spoon per 1 liter). When preparing the latter option, you need to let the solution brew for two days.

    When processing with an ash mixture, the seeds are left in it for 5 hours. Those grains that rise to the surface are not used. Treating grains with a growth stimulator will also benefit future seedlings. After processing, the seed is dried.

    Seed sowing technology

    You will need to first prepare a container of suitable volume. Peat pots are best suited. You can use a box with dimensions 50 x 30 x 25cm. The substrate should not be cold. Its temperature must exceed 7⁰C.
    The seeds are planted to a depth of about one centimeter. The optimal air temperature is 20 degrees. The distance between the grooves (when planting in a container) is 3 cm.

    Know! If you don’t want to pick seedlings in the future, you can immediately plant the seeds in peat tablets.

    They come in different sizes. In the case of planting cabbage seedlings, 4 cm in diameter is sufficient. The blanks are placed in warm water until they swell, then excess moisture is removed. Place a pair of seeds into the holes made and sprinkle peat on top of them.

    Seedling care

    After the first growth appears, the air temperature is reduced to 10 degrees. But after a week they increase it to 15⁰C during the day and to 9 degrees at night. If the seedlings are kept warm, above 20⁰C, this can lead to early formation of heads.
    Seedlings love light very much.

    At the beginning of spring, bushes may lack natural light. After all, “kids” require 15 hours of daylight. In order to ensure proper agrotechnical conditions, phytolamps are placed above the young animals. Conventional incandescent lamps are not suitable for supplementary lighting - they heat the air and have a different spectrum. Proper care means loosening the soil, spraying irrigation and timely application of fertilizers.

    Picking seedlings

    The procedure is carried out when the seedlings are two weeks old. Until the bushes take root, maintain a comfortable temperature. It is 20 degrees. Then a decrease follows again - 17 during the day and 9 at night. A couple of weeks before moving to the site, hardening of the young animals begins. There is no need to rush with the transplant.

    Attention! A sharp change in microclimate and cold weather can trigger the start of the bolting process of cabbage.

    Planting broccoli in open ground

    The seedlings remain at home until the fifth or sixth true leaf appears. Usually this takes 35-45 days. Young growth is moved to the garden bed in mid-May. But you should be guided by weather conditions. In case of returning frosts or poorly warmed soil, it is better to wait with replanting.

    Soil preparation

    The soil for broccoli should be neutral or slightly alkaline - pH within 6.7-7.4 units. Preparation of the land on the site begins in the fall: manure or compost is added for digging at the rate of 4-5 kg ​​per m². If the soil on the site is acidic, add lime to it.

    When to plant seedlings

    The timing of the movement of young shoots outside depends on the climate and weather in the region. “Kids” are able to withstand frosts down to -7⁰C. In the southern regions, the end of April is considered a suitable period. In the middle zone, seedlings are planted in early May. Medium-ripening varieties are moved outside at the end of May, and late ones - until the beginning of June.

    Landing technology

    It is advisable to move young bushes to the garden bed on a cloudy day. In clear weather, it is better to choose a time closer to the evening. Planted according to a pattern of 35 by 60 centimeters. Up to ten grams of complex mineral fertilizer must be added to each hole. It is thoroughly mixed with soil, then the seedling is placed in a hole, sprinkled with soil, compacted and watered.

    Attention! If the likelihood of return frosts remains, the seedlings are covered with film. Already at -2⁰C the bushes die.

    You can sow directly, in open ground, bypassing the stage of growing seedlings. Seeds are processed in the same way as when planted at home. When seedlings appear, the young plants must be thinned out.

    Caring for broccoli in open ground

    The traditional cycle of activities includes: loosening, watering, weeding, and fertilizing. Three weeks after moving to the garden bed, the young plants are hilled up, loosening the soil under the bushes. This stimulates root respiration. The seedlings do not tolerate the scorching sun. Therefore, at the beginning of the growing season, it will be necessary to create special conditions for them. Protection from rays can be very different - young animals are shaded using spruce branches or old buckets.

    In hot weather, it is very important to humidify the air around the seedlings. And again, do not forget about the need for loosening. The root circle is processed to a depth of eight centimeters. It is most convenient to carry out this work one day after irrigation.

    Watering

    When grown outdoors, irrigation is required once a week. But if the heat begins and the thermometer rises above 25⁰C, watering needs to be done more often. Do not over-water the soil. Watering can be done through the leaves - just spray them with water.

    Top dressing

    Fertilizers must be applied for the first time 2 weeks after planting young animals in the garden. To do this, a glass of mullein is diluted in a bucket of water and a spoonful of urea is added. You can use chicken manure diluted in water in a ratio of 1:20. When sowing seeds directly into the ground, young animals can be fed only 20 days after germination.

    The second stage is the application of nitrate two weeks after the first feeding. Place a matchbox of this substance on a bucket of water. At the end of the season, the need for nitrogen decreases, and the need for potassium-phosphorus components increases. The third feeding is carried out with a solution containing 40 g of superphosphate, ten grams of potassium sulfate, 20 g of ammonium nitrate. All components are dissolved in a bucket of water.

    To stimulate the development of side shoots after removing the central head of cabbage, you can feed the plant with a special mixture. For 10 liters of water - ten grams of saltpeter, twenty superphosphate and thirty potassium sulfate. For one bush - a liter of solution.

    Know! Ordinary ash is also suitable as a fertilizer. You will need a glass of it per square meter of area.

    Growing broccoli in the Moscow region, the Urals, and Siberia

    The cold resistance of the crop makes it possible to grow it even in harsh climatic conditions - in areas with short, cool summers. The vegetable produces an excellent harvest not only in the Moscow region, but in the Urals and Siberia. It is possible to choose the most suitable varieties, taking into account the characteristics of the region. In the conditions of central Russia, the following varieties have proven themselves well:

    • Kolobok;
    • Emperor;
    • Tone;
    • Comanche.

    For cultivation in Siberia and the Ural region in unprotected soil, only early ripening varieties are suitable:

    • Macho F1;
    • Lazarus F1;
    • Fiesta F1;
    • Vyarus.


    Broccoli has bloomed - what to do?

    The prerequisites for the appearance of flowers on cabbage are:

    1. Lack of moisture in the air or substrate.
    2. Sharp temperature fluctuations (not only cold weather is scary, but also heat).
    3. Lack of nutrition - fertilizers must be applied in a timely manner.
    4. Variety type based on ripening speed (early ripening ones win).

    Having realized the reason that prompted the plant to bloom, it is necessary to take measures to save the harvest. So, what measures can serve to prevent this phenomenon. It only takes about 35-50 days from moving the seedlings to the garden bed until the harvest is obtained. Timely disembarkation is of great importance. The best conditions for the development of seedlings are the temperature range from 16 to 25⁰C. At higher values, cabbage begins to bloom.

    Early varieties have an advantage - climatic conditions do not have time to influence the formation of heads so much.

    If the bushes still have time to bloom, the flowers are torn off, and the ground around the plants must be loosened. There is a high probability of side sprouts forming. They will be smaller in size than the one that appeared on the central shoot.

    Know! If there is no chance to save the bushes, you can sow a second time. By autumn there will still be an opportunity to get a harvest.

    If cabbage planted at the end of April or beginning of May blooms, it can be left to collect seeds. To do this, you simply do not need to cut off the head of cabbage. Its maturation is monitored. Around the end of September, the seeds will turn black and can be collected. The seed material is thoroughly dried in a cool place.

    After which crops is it better to plant broccoli?

    The best predecessors are cucumbers, potatoes, grains, legumes, carrots, and onions. Various types of green manure are also suitable. They saturate the soil with nutrients. After them, cabbage grows well. You should not plant cabbage after beets, radishes, turnips, radishes, and tomatoes. It is advisable to wait at least four years and only after that can you plant broccoli in this area.

    Harvesting, storage

    It is necessary to have time to remove the heads of cabbage before the buds open and yellow flowers appear. Only the green head is suitable for eating. Typically, ripeness occurs on the 80th day after sowing. The main head of cabbage can weigh up to 400 g and be up to twenty centimeters in diameter. In just a few days, an excellent vegetable can turn into inedible.

    Harvesting begins with trimming the main stem. Its length should be about fifteen centimeters. You shouldn't get rid of the bush right away. With proper care, the remaining shoots produce an excellent harvest. After some time, you can begin to cut off the side branches. All inflorescences are removed along with the shoots. They are also very juicy and nutritious.

    Harvesting is carried out early in the morning, before the dew has dried. Or you can reschedule the event until very late in the evening. The presence of moisture allows the heads of cabbage to remain fresh longer and not wither. The stems are cut obliquely with a sharp knife.

    Know! Experienced gardeners grow broccoli in the basement. This requires watering the plant abundantly the day before digging. It is better to choose plants with a developed rosette of leaves.

    The shelf life of the vegetable varies depending on the variety. Early ones, with a short ripening period, are not characterized by keeping quality. They can keep in the refrigerator for about a week. Mid-season and late - will last three months in the refrigerator or cellar. The most reliable way to preserve crops is freezing. In this form, all useful substances and vitamins are preserved.

    Pests and diseases of broccoli (treatment)

    Does not suffer from insects too often. But sometimes you have to deal with the invasion of various pests - the plant can become food for aphids, cabbage flies, cutworms, white flies, cruciferous midges, slugs and snails.

    Aphid colonies can destroy even a healthy, strong plant. Insects secrete a special secretion similar to wax. The leaves turn pinkish and curl. Aphids reproduce rapidly - up to sixteen generations per season.

    Larvae and adults of the cruciferous flea beetle gnaw holes in the shoots. After this, the bushes begin to dry out, wither and subsequently die. You can scare away the pest by scattering celandine or tansy powder between the rows of plants. If such a measure does not have the desired effect, treatment with a 15-fold solution of Phoxim or Actellica will help.
    Caterpillars of the cabbage white moth and cutworm, emerging from the larvae it lays, eat the edges of the leaves. Insecticides will help out - “Talkord”, “Rovikurt”, “Belofos” and others.

    An invasion of slugs and snails can destroy the entire future harvest. They cause noticeable damage to adult bushes, and can completely destroy young seedlings. Simple methods will help in the fight against mollusks. An insurmountable obstacle to their path can be areas sprinkled with lime, ash, hot pepper powder, and tobacco dust. It is enough to make small depressions around the perimeter of the beds, where you can pour similar substances and the crop will be protected.

    The use of chemical plant protection products is appropriate only in the case of a large colony of pests that threatens the crop. An important preventive measure will be compliance with the rules of agricultural technology for growing crops.

    Attention! Do not forget about disinfecting the seeds before planting; you need to regularly weed them. In the fall, be sure to dig up the area and clear it of remaining plants and their shoots.

    Vegetables can be affected by various ailments. Among them:

    • clubroot;
    • peronosporosis;
    • vascular bacteriosis;
    • dry and white varieties of rot;
    • Alternaria blight;
    • blackleg;
    • fusarium;
    • bel.

    Seedlings usually suffer from blackleg. The main reason is excessive soil moisture. It is also necessary to thin out crops in a timely manner. Density of seedlings promotes the development of the disease. The necks of young growth become soft, turn black, and lodging of seedlings is observed.

    Affected bushes are removed. The earth is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate (3 grams per bucket of water). After this, irrigation is not carried out for a week. For preventive purposes, you can treat with Planriz, Fitosporin, Baktofit, and Fitolavin-300.

    Clubroot appears in the form of growths. They are oval or ball-shaped. Over time, they become brown and the process of rotting begins. As a result, the bushes wither and look stunted.

    It will not be possible to rid the plantings of the disease. But as a preventive measure, you can plant potatoes, physalis, eggplants, peppers, and tomatoes in the place where broccoli grew. Natural soil cleansing will take three years. If you plant garlic, onions, chard, beets, spinach, then it will take only two growing seasons to rid the soil of the pathogen.

    If there are spots of plaque on the plants that look like traces of oil paint, these are signs of leucorrhoea. As the disease develops, the affected areas turn brown and dry out. Leaves may swell and become deformed. Diseased plants are quickly disposed of, and the remaining ones are treated with products containing copper. It is necessary to do weeding in a timely manner and follow the rules of crop rotation - this will serve as a preventive measure.

    Harmful insects spread a disease called Alternaria. Brown spots on shoots and leaves increase in size and become covered with spores of a fungal pathogen. A set of preventive measures includes soaking the seed in warm water before planting, regular weeding in the summer and clearing the beds of plant debris in the fall.

    Yellow spots indicate infection with peronosporosis. It is also called downy mildew. The spots on the back of the leaf are whitish. Sick young animals are pollinated three times at weekly intervals with ash, sulfur powder or a mixture of lime and sulfur. If the situation is serious, you can treat it with Topaz. You will need one ampoule per bucket of water.

    Rotten stems and a cobweb-like coating on the back of the leaves are signs of white rot. The source of infection is an acidified substrate with a high nitrogen content. The prevailing cool weather promotes infection. Copper-containing drugs will help cope with the disease. A preventive measure is correct crop rotation, liming the soil if necessary, and weeding.

    Light spots with black spots are manifestations of dry rot. The bushes stop developing and dry out. It is necessary to combat this disease in the same way as with peronosporosis.

    The main signs of mosaic are spots on the leaves. Over time, they develop a dark green edging and necrotic spots. The leaves themselves are subject to deformation. There are no measures to combat this disease - diseased bushes are removed and burned. Prevention includes weeding and systematic pest control. They are the carriers of the mosaic.

    If the edges of the leaves turn yellow and they themselves become like parchment, this is vascular bacteriosis. Gradually, the veins darken and the affected shoots die. Treatment with Trichodermin or Planriz is required. Sluggish, deformed leaves of a yellow-green hue signal the development of fusarium. Urgent treatment with benzimidazoles will save the situation. Prevention is the timely disposal of affected specimens.

    Possible problems with growing broccoli

    Broccoli seedlings may suddenly turn yellow and there are a number of reasons for this:

    1. Nutrient imbalance.
    2. Infection in the soil (if it has not been disinfected).

    Rotting of young animals is usually caused by blackleg disease. Seedlings stretch when there is a lack of light, dense seedlings and unsuitable temperature conditions.

    Important! During the ripening period, it is better to cover the heads from sunlight. Otherwise they will grow small.

    The heads of cabbage must be cut before they open. Over time, the heads become coarser and begin to taste bitter.

    Little tricks of experienced gardeners

    1. If you plant dill next door, aphids will avoid the cabbage beds.
    2. Planted close, the tomato will protect the cabbage from leaf beetles.
    3. In the case of direct sowing in open ground, it is better to thoroughly press the soil with the palm of your hand. This will allow the roots to strengthen in the future.
    4. It is preferable to choose the sunniest place.
    5. A small planting can be protected from the cabbage butterfly under a fine mesh net. The insect will not be able to get close to the leaves and lay larvae on them.
    6. It is possible to plant cabbage a second time in the same area only after a few years.
    7. When planting, you can add a little baking soda and pepper - this will protect the young from the invasion of harmful insects.
    8. Cabbage fly larvae cannot tolerate salt. Half a glass of the substance per bucket of water will get rid of uninvited guests. This amount of solution is enough to treat twenty bushes.
    9. Young growth is best mulched. This will maintain an optimal level of moisture in the soil, reduce the number of emerging weeds and protect the roots from overheating.
    10. After watering, the soil can be loosened. This way the substrate will be enriched with oxygen.
    11. Hilling up bushes promotes the development of lateral roots. This strengthens the plant.

    To treat plants against various pests, you can use simple folk recipes. For example, infusion of tomato tops. A decoction based on hot pepper (several pods per liter of boiling water) is also considered an effective remedy.

    Garlic-tobacco infusion is one of their effective recipes. First of all, you should try to overcome the attack with harmless natural decoctions. If all else fails, chemicals are used.

    Broccoli beneficial properties and contraindications

    The vegetable has long been considered the queen among all types of cabbage. Contains vitamins and microelements. The presence of vitamin U deserves special mention. This substance promotes active healing of ulcers. One hundred grams of heads contain about ninety percent of the daily requirement of vitamin C. However, when stored in the refrigerator, after a couple of days the concentration of ascorbic acid is halved.

    Amino acids, fiber, and chlorophyll also make the vegetable a valuable dietary product. The presence of methionine and choline in the composition normalizes lipid metabolism. Eating broccoli helps regulate insulin levels in the blood. This is important for people with diabetes.

    Know! This is a product with “negative” calories. The body spends more energy on its digestion than it receives during absorption. One hundred grams contains only thirty kilocalories.

    When living in unfavorable environmental conditions and in areas with high levels of radiation activity, doctors recommend eating broccoli dishes. This helps remove harmful substances, toxins, and heavy metal salts from the body.

    Eating vegetables helps eliminate swelling. They are one of the main causes of cellulite. With regular consumption of this variety of cabbage, the skin becomes more toned over time.

    Also, recent research has found that the active substance sulforaphane, contained in the shoots and stems of broccoli, helps fight certain types of cancer.

    Contraindications for eating broccoli

    It is not recommended to use the vegetable when cooking vegetable broths. During the cooking process, substances hazardous to human health, guanine and adenine, are transferred into the water. Long-term heat treatment (baking in the oven or microwave) destroys most of the vitamins and other beneficial elements. When frying over high heat, carcinogenic compounds are formed. This is how a dietary product becomes harmful to health.

    To avoid troubles and get the benefits of eating the vegetable, it is better to eat this type of cabbage fresh or prepare dietary dishes according to all the rules.

    Attention! If you have high acidity of the gastric juice or problems with the pancreas, you should not eat broccoli.

    Conclusion

    Every summer resident who wants to grow a rich harvest should know how to grow broccoli and care for it in open ground conditions.

    Broccoli is healthy and versatile. When growing it, many summer residents are faced with the fact that the heads of cabbage do not set. To get a harvest, you need to understand the reasons and carry out a number of preventive and therapeutic measures.


    When caring for broccoli, gardeners often observe an unpleasant phenomenon - the plant goes into bloom without having time to set its heads. Causes:

    • poor soil quality;
    • excess fertilizer (especially during the formation of the head of cabbage);
    • ambient temperature above 25 degrees;
    • lack of sun;
    • late harvest;
    • lack of nutrition or watering.

    The best fertilizer for broccoli is green tea and vermicompost.

    Signs and symptoms


    It is easy to understand that broccoli does not produce full heads. There are 2 signs:

    1. The head became knotted, but instead of developing, it began to bloom profusely.
    2. The head does not tie at all, the cabbage grows in height.

    In both cases, the result from growing broccoli is zero. Therefore, at the first signs, you need to change your care and take measures to treat the plants.

    Important!

    Blooming broccoli loses its marketable appearance, but remains suitable for food. It retains all vitamins and nutrients.

    What to do


    If the main head has gone into color, do not rush and immediately remove the plant from the garden bed. In most cases, after removing the central head of cabbage, lateral ovaries begin to form. In this case, it is worth helping the plant and achieving a good harvest.

    Traditional methods

    During the entire growth period of broccoli, it needs to be fed only 3 times. The first time - a week after planting the seedlings in the garden bed, the second time - after 14 days, and the third time - during the formation of the head of cabbage.

    Cabbage responds positively to watering with fermented nettle infusion.

    Fertilizing with brewer's yeast is also effective. This type of fertilizer is applied in the evening to well-warmed and pre-moistened soil.

    Foliar feeding for ovaries is prepared based on boric acid. 1 teaspoon of powder is diluted with 1 liter of hot water. When the solution has cooled, add another 9 liters of cold water and spray the plants with the resulting mixture.

    Chemicals


    To ensure that the ovaries form on time and do not bloom, you can use purchased products. Superphosphate and boron have proven themselves well. These substances can be poured into a teaspoon directly under the root.

    For irrigation, a urea solution is also used (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water).

    Important!

    After each feeding with chemicals, loosening and hilling are carried out.

    Prevention


    Broccoli requires careful and constant care. Basic growing rules:

    1. Observe planting deadlines. The package of seeds must indicate what type of cabbage it is - for summer, autumn or spring planting. The optimal temperature is 15-19 degrees. Therefore, cabbage is planted in such a way that it has time to form before hot weather sets in (before the beginning of June) or closer to autumn (in this case, the formation of the head occurs in September). In the northern regions, it is permissible to grow varieties intended for summer planting.
    2. The right neighborhood. Broccoli develops well next to cucumbers, peas, dill, beets and carrots. Undesirable neighbors are onions and watercress.
    3. In normal climates, plantings are watered every other day. If the summer is hot, watering is carried out daily, in the evening.
    4. Every year, the place where broccoli is planted needs to be changed.

    • in September, when the nights are cold, the head of cabbage forms more slowly, but larger;
    • when the head of cabbage reaches the size of a tennis ball, the leaves must be tied over it;
    • cabbage plantings must be protected from direct sunlight for the entire period of cabbage formation;
    • it is necessary to cut off the head in a timely manner (the average weight of the head for a particular variety is indicated on the seed packaging), usually the harvest is harvested when the head of cabbage has reached a size of 10-25 cm, but has not yet bloomed;
    • the head of cabbage is cut with a sharp knife; after the next feeding, new ovaries will form on the sides of the main stem;
    • heads cut early in the morning or late in the evening are stored better and longer.