How to grow and care for remontant strawberries. Features of growing remontant strawberries, caring for them

Remontant strawberries are a special berry crop. Her genes contain the ability to bear fruit several times in one season .

There are several varieties of remontant strawberries, and each has its own distinctive characteristics.

The development phases of strawberry plants directly depend on lighting.

When growing remontant strawberries, the characteristics of the variety are taken into account, which you need to become familiar with before purchasing seedlings.

Regular garden strawberries, which are not remontant, are classified as plants short daylight hours. This means that it produces flower buds only when the daylight hours are decreasing (in late summer and autumn).

And it blooms and bears fruit in the first half of the season. Remontant strawberries behave differently.

Not all gardeners know that there are two groups of remontant strawberries:

• long daylight hours;
• neutral day.

Each of these types has its own characteristics.

Remontant strawberries of long daylight hours on our site!

Remontant strawberry of neutral day

Daylight neutral strawberries are better suited for southern latitudes and for growing in greenhouses or at home.

These plants are capable of laying flower buds and growing berries constantly, wave after wave, with very short rest breaks. The factor of length of day and night is not decisive.

Such large-fruited strawberries feel comfortable only in warm regions.

Features of care

The maximum yield of remontant strawberries NSD is harvested in the first two years.

This berry crop is intensive - it has increased requirements for the level of agricultural technology, temperature conditions, and nutrition.

• Prolonged harvesting greatly depletes the plants. Both outdoor plantations and greenhouse beds must be regularly watered and fertilized. – both organic and mineral. Micronutrient supplements are required. It is advisable to use growth and immunity stimulants.
• Intensively fruiting remontant bushes age much faster than ordinary strawberries. Day-neutral plants degenerate early, often lasting only one season . Such a plantation requires annual renewal - planting new bushes.
• If strawberries are grown for the sake of harvest, that’s it, otherwise the berry grower will spend additional energy, becoming even more depleted. The buds of plants selected for propagation are plucked out, preventing flowering.
• Outdoor plantations of large-fruited remontant strawberries on a neutral day are especially needed. It is necessary to take care of shelter and good snow accumulation .

This variety of strawberry is represented mainly by varieties of foreign selection. Brighton, Albion and many others are popular. In recent years, many new products have appeared, but not all of them are suitable for the Russian climate.

Remontant strawberry of long daylight hours

DSD strawberries bear fruit several times during the season.

Long-day plants produce two or three waves of harvest. Buds appear very quickly in spring. The first wave coincides with the fruiting of traditional early varieties. After a short break, the second stage of berry formation occurs - usually in August (in the southern regions in July). The third time the ovaries grow in the fall, if the weather is quite warm.

Subtleties of agricultural technology

• Repairing strawberries need in increased soil fertility, regular watering .
• If you want to get a bountiful harvest in August-September, spring buds need to be removed , preventing the first wave from bearing fruit. The principle is the same as when working with remontant raspberries.
• Remontant strawberries with long daylight hours can live longer than day-neutral ones . However, after two or three seasons of work, it also becomes depleted. Obsolete bushes weaken and winter poorly; the berries become smaller. Plants that have exhausted their resources are replaced with new ones.
• The winter hardiness of remontant long-day strawberries is slightly lower than that of non-remontant ones. . But it overwinters more successfully than the day-neutral one.

Well-known strawberry varieties of this group are Selva, Crimean remontantnaya, and Queen Elizabeth 2.

Ability to form a mustache

Whiskered strawberries are easier to propagate.

Remontant strawberries can be moustached, small moustached and beardless. This trait depends on the variety.

• The mustachioed variety is especially convenient for reproduction. But the active growth of mustaches - together with the summer and autumn filling of berries - greatly depletes the bushes and thickens the plantation. The mustache must be constantly cut off at the very beginning of its formation. This takes a lot of effort and time.
• Small mustache varieties produce a small number of mustaches - and, as a rule, only in the first year of the bush’s life. Mass propagation of such plants is problematic. Sometimes bushes are planted, divided into horns. Some branded varieties of this group are grown from store-bought seeds. Seed material has to be re-acquired and sown every 2-3 years.
• Beardless remontant strawberries are propagated by dividing the bush or by seeds. Small-fruited varieties can be grown from your own seeds. This method is not very suitable for large varieties. Seed and planting material must be regularly repurchased from reliable manufacturers. The most productive plants are obtained in special laboratories using microcloning. Their cost is high, but it pays off with a bountiful harvest.

The small-mustachioed and beardless remontant berry directs all its efforts to the formation of berries. The gardener does not need to spend time removing the whiskers. But difficulties arise with reproduction. Each owner decides for himself which plants are more convenient for him to deal with.

Complex of works on remontant strawberries

Experienced gardeners know that remontant berries are more demanding on growing conditions. To get a good harvest of such strawberries, they advise follow all rules of agricultural technology.

Selection of seedlings, planting dates

The method of propagation of remontant strawberries depends on its varietal characteristics. , purchase ready-made seedlings in stores and nurseries, root the mustache or divide the bushes.

Strawberry seeds are planted for seedlings in February–March.

Seeds

Seeds they buy only from the most reliable manufacturers so that time and effort are not wasted.

They are sown at home for seedlings at the end of winter or early spring. Strong young seedlings are transferred to the ground in May-June. As a rule, such bushes produce a harvest already in the same season.

Saplings

Saplings You can buy it at a garden store or market, or get it from neighbors or friends. The origin of plants may vary.

Strawberry seedlings are planted in a permanent place in mid-May.

Seedlings from private individuals most often take the form of tendrils or divided bushes. They are purchased and planted in beds in early spring or in the second half of summer. In warm regions, autumn planting is also acceptable.

Stores and nurseries sell rooted runners, grown seedlings, as well as test-tube seedlings (obtained by microcloning). Seedlings of remontant strawberries with a closed root system can be planted in the ground almost throughout the entire season - from spring to early autumn.

1. The surface of the ground on a remontant strawberry plantation must be covered with mulching materials - for example, straw or hay.
2. It is convenient to plant remontant strawberries on black agrofibre. This mulch protects against weeds, preserves moisture and heat, and protects the berries from dirt and damage.

Greenhouse effect

The use of simple shelters helps to extend the season for obtaining vitamin berries.

Agrofibre or film draped over small frames (arcs) allows you to get an earlier harvest in the spring. At flowering time, the ridges are opened for pollination. The cover is re-stretched in the fall so that late ovaries ripen better.

Plantation care

The drip system is the best option for watering strawberries.

Remontant strawberries are fed more often and more abundantly than regular ones. Fertilizer irrigation is needed 2 times a month. A full range of nutrition is important throughout the season. The need for nitrogen and potassium is especially great; a moderate amount of phosphorus is also required. Microelements are required.

It is advisable to supply nitrogen in the form of organic matter.

• Apply water solution manure (1:10), bird droppings (1:20), herbal infusion (1:5). 1 liter of this liquid is poured under each bush.
• Wood ash infusion (a half-liter jar for 10 liters of water) is recommended to be applied separately - 500 ml per bush.
• Ash and natural organics can be replaced with store-bought fertilizers - complex mineral or organomineral, preferably special “for strawberries”.

In the second half of the season, phosphorus fertilizers should be added to the fertilizing (according to the instructions).

In August, phosphorus fertilizers are applied to the strawberries.

Remontant strawberries are in dire need of additional mineral elements, especially molybdenum, boron, magnesium, and zinc. A complex of microelements is applied along with other fertilizers or given as foliar feeding, spraying the bushes on buds and flowers several times a season. Treatment with immune stimulants has a positive effect on yield – for example, Zircon(according to instructions).

Watering

The soil under the remontant strawberry bushes should be constantly moist to the entire depth of the roots - 25–30 cm.

In dry weather, when watering, use up to half a bucket of water for each plant. Sprinkling method is not recommended (berries rot), it is best to use a drip irrigation system.

Protection from diseases and pests

Remontant varieties may suffer from gray rot.

Plantings of remontant strawberries are not used for too long, only 1–3 years, and infections do not have time to accumulate. It is important to initially use healthy seedlings and soil. Mulch helps maintain cleanliness.

The berry bears fruit almost without interruption, so using chemicals is harmful. In critical cases, spraying against weevils on spring buds is allowed. In autumn (after harvest) or early spring you can.

To fight With spraying with biological preparations is used ( Fitosporin, Alirin ) or folk remedies: aqueous iodine solution (1 drop per 1 liter of water) or potassium permanganate (pink).

Trimming

In ordinary strawberries, the foliage is removed after fruiting. This is not done on remontant plantations. Only the lower darkened leaves are periodically cut out - especially in autumn and spring after the snow melts. Unnecessary mustaches require regular trimming.

Preparing for winter

In the fall, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is stopped and increased doses of phosphorus and potassium are given.

For the winter, strawberries are covered with straw or hay.

Varieties with poor winter hardiness are not allowed to bear fruit in the autumn months; the flower stalks are removed. When the daytime temperature drops below zero, the remontant strawberry plantation is covered before wintering with spruce branches, pine needles, dry leaves, and agrofibre. The protection should not be too tight or damp - this risks overheating.

Moderate snow layer– the best insulation for remontant strawberries in the northern regions.

Video about the six best remontant strawberry varieties

Remontant strawberries, or as they are more correctly called, remontant garden strawberries, can increasingly be found in the garden plots of not only amateurs, but also professionals. It sometimes inhabits large territories, and the owners are happy with this coexistence. However, to my surprise, many people still have questions about the proper care of remontant garden strawberries, as if this overseas miracle was brought to our land just a couple of days ago.

The main difference between remontant garden strawberries and ordinary ones is its ability to bloom and, accordingly, bear fruit twice a season, without interruption. Only a small fraction of plants have this ability - raspberries and a number of citrus fruits.

Garden strawberries of remontant varieties can lay flower buds either in long daylight conditions (for example, the Garland variety) or in neutral daylight conditions (for example, the Miracle of the World variety). It is noteworthy that varieties capable of setting flower buds in long daylight conditions produce approximately 40% of their harvest in July and up to 60% of their harvest in August.

Remontant garden strawberries, capable of laying flower buds in neutral daylight conditions, bloom and bear fruit throughout the warm period, gradually yielding their harvest. Considering the great wear and tear of plants, plantations of remontant strawberries that bear fruit twice a year also need to be changed once every three years, and those that bear fruit throughout the warm period - once every two years, each time changing the location of the plot.

In our material we will try to bring to your attention in as much detail as possible the subtleties of caring for remontant garden strawberries.

How to properly care for remontant garden strawberries?

By and large, varieties of remontant strawberries cannot be called capricious; they are all quite unpretentious, but they still have their own subtleties in care. For example, everyone knows that modern large-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries can form berries weighing from 65 to 90 grams or more. Naturally, this will most likely lead to fairly rapid depletion of the soil and the need to apply additional fertilizers. This may be why a number of gardeners, contrary to general opinion, advise removing the very first spring flower stalks. Then the second harvest of remontant strawberries, firstly, will be much earlier than expected, therefore, the plants will prepare for winter without human intervention. Secondly, the berries will be tastier and larger. Sometimes the total harvest after such a simple technique even exceeds two total harvests or an all-season harvest for remontant varieties of a different type.

Caring for remontant garden strawberries includes strictly mandatory steps - this is indispensable watering (the plants must be provided with plenty of moisture), fertilizer (everything is good here in moderation, but the plants should not suffer from a deficiency of one or another element), loosening the soil (after each watering and rain to avoid the formation of a soil crust when air and water exchange is disrupted), mulching the beds (after each watering, as it inhibits the growth of weeds and the formation of a soil crust), weed control (especially wheatgrass - the most malicious competitor of crops) , destruction of pests and diseases (at the earliest stages of their manifestation), pruning bushes (a specific procedure for remontant strawberries) and, finally, preparation for winter (an important stage in the life of remontant garden strawberries).

Important! Gardeners who have been through fire and water recommend that you always mulch the beds with remontant garden strawberries, because the root system of this berry crop, unlike the common garden strawberry, is located high, and the plants very often suffer from a banal lack of moisture. To save irrigation water, you need to use mulch almost immediately after watering (and it is better to water with water at room temperature and in the evening). The mulch can be spruce needles, sawdust, straw, humus, hay, or ordinary mown grass. In addition to protecting against moisture loss, mulch will also protect the berries from being splashed with soil during rain and watering and will inhibit the growth of weeds (don’t forget about them too!).

Watering remontant strawberries

Remontant varieties of garden strawberries need to be watered more often than ordinary garden strawberries, especially in the dry seasons of the year. Immediately after planting the seedlings, the plants need to be watered every day, then after five to six days, watering can be done every other day, and ultimately, watering just a couple of times a month will be enough.

To water remontant strawberries, you can only use warm water at room temperature; it’s great if it’s rainwater collected in a barrel painted black. You can water the plantings both in the morning and in the evening. When watering, try to ensure that the soil in the area where remontant garden strawberries grow is moistened by two to three centimeters at a time.

As for the mulch of remontant strawberries, as we already wrote above, it is needed, but it is not at all necessary to cover the soil with mulch immediately after watering; this can be done the next day. Instead of mulch, if, for example, it rains, the soil between the rows can be carefully loosened. But remember: it is very important not to damage the roots, which, as we have already written, are located closer to the surface of the soil than those of common strawberries. The main thing when mulching or loosening is to avoid soil crust so that air can freely penetrate to the roots.

If there is no rain for a long period and the soil dries out, then you can break all the rules of watering and moisten the soil almost every day, without allowing the soil to dry out too much, this is very important. If the soil is already very dry, for example, in a country house where you have not been for several days, then first very carefully loosen the soil and then water it, but do not do the opposite. Frequent watering is especially important for day-neutral varieties of remontant strawberries; why, I think there is no need to explain here. These same varieties require more frequent and thorough weeding, especially after rain and the removal of dying leaves that turn red.

Fertilizer for remontant strawberries

It is clear that remontant garden strawberries can be severely depleted and they definitely need proper feeding. Remontant garden strawberries most actively consume elements such as nitrogen and potassium from the soil. But she needs phosphorus, but to an insignificant extent. Taking this into account, fertilizing with phosphorus can be carried out only once, adding doses of superphosphate (15-20 g per square meter) only when planting a plantation of remontant garden strawberries.

An approximate feeding scheme for remontant strawberries is as follows:

Usually, the first feeding of remontant strawberries is carried out in the third ten days of May, during this period they use urea, the composition is very weak - one gram or two (if the soil is poor, per bucket of water), this is the norm per square meter of soil. Approximately in the second half of June, when peduncles of repeated fruiting begin to actively form, you can add mullein (1:10 - in the amount of 0.5 liters per square meter or bird droppings 1:15 - in the amount of 0.3 liters per square meter). It is quite acceptable, along with organic fertilizers, to use newfangled mineral fertilizers, such as Kristallin Solution or Kemira Lux.

In general, ideally, the entire season should be stretched out so that there are about ten fertilizers, alternating these fertilizers.

The second option for feeding remontant strawberries is when, at the very beginning of June, the plants are fed not only with slurry diluted 10 times and bird droppings 15 times, but also with the addition of 1% urea (1 g per bucket of water), this entire composition should be used on 2 - 3 square meters of area.

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Gray rot

Remontant garden strawberries are often attacked by gray rot. It manifests itself most actively in dense plantations, where the soil is not loosened and frequent watering is carried out, especially with sprinkling and cold water. Gray rot can affect all above-ground organs of the plant, which will lead to losses of up to 85% of the entire crop. In order to prevent the appearance of gray rot on remontant strawberries, it is necessary to plant on the site in accordance with the characteristics of the growth and development of a particular variety, to mulch the soil, as well as sufficient, but not excessive watering. At the first sign of infection, the affected parts of the plants should be removed.

As a preventive measure, you can treat plants at the very beginning of the growing season with 2.0% Bordeaux mixture, and after harvesting at the very end of the growing season, to consolidate the result, with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides to combat the disease, but you can only use approved ones, in full accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Strobi, Switch, Euparen, Triadimefon (Bayleton), Captan. The biological product Alirin-B is considered the safest from the list of recommended ones.

Brown spot

It manifests itself when, as in the previous case, strawberry plantings are thickened, there is too much moisture, and day and night temperatures fluctuate noticeably. As a preventive measure in the spring, remove all dry leaves so that the infection does not “settle” on them and treat with 2% Bordeaux mixture. Do not forget about mulching, which will not allow the fungus to reach the surface.

If the disease is very active, then use approved fungicides, strictly following the instructions on the package, for example, Skor, Strobi, Fundazol.

Powdery mildew

The first sign of the appearance of this disease is the purple color of the strawberry leaf blades, then they curl and become ash-gray, as if sprinkled with old flour. If you don’t want this disease to come visit you, then in early spring, treat the plants with a weak (slightly pink) solution of potassium permanganate or 1% colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides, but use only approved ones and exactly in accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Topaz, Fundazol, Tilt, Strobi and Fitosporin-M.

Brown spotting on strawberry leaves. Powdery mildew on strawberry leaves.

Pests of remontant strawberries

The first pests of remontant strawberries on my site are slugs. I saved myself from them by planting garlic between the rows: honestly, I never saw a single slug again.

Strawberry mite

It is considered a much more dangerous pest of strawberries: if it damages young leaves, they curl and turn yellow quite actively. The plant itself is sharply inhibited in growth. The mite can infect from half to the entire plantation, and without treatment it can lead to its death.

A 3% solution of colloidal sulfur helps to overcome mites, but it can only be used very early in the spring and after the entire harvest has been harvested. Well, and of course, various types of approved acaricides.

Strawberry nematode

Usually, if a strawberry is infected with a nematode, its leaves become deformed and curled. A characteristic feature can be seen on the petioles: they become too fragile and sometimes break even from the wind. Fruiting on such plants is either weak or absent altogether. The nematode is considered a quarantine pest; if it is present on the site, plants must be immediately removed and burned.

Spider mite

Usually the strawberry leaves seem to become limp, and if you turn them over, you will notice traces of the mite's activity - a cobweb. As a result, the leaf blades turn yellow and dry out prematurely. Gardeners write that Karbofos helps very well against spider mites. After harvesting the entire crop, they process the plants and cover them with film for several days.

Signs of damage to strawberries by strawberry or cyclamen mite. Dead strawberry plants infected with strawberry nematode. Strawberries affected by spider mites.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes, among other things, also includes pruning. Typically, pruning bushes is enough to do once a season - either in spring or autumn.

If you live in a cold region where remontant strawberries require shelter, then pruning should be done in the autumn. This is done as follows: after the final harvest of the entire harvest, the lower leaf blades are removed from the bush, trying not to touch the upper leaf blades, because it is in their axils that the fruit buds are laid, from which the fruits will form in the next season.

In the event that berries do not form on the mustache at all and the gardener does not plan to propagate remontant garden strawberries in this way, then removal of the mustache is mandatory.

Remember, however, this rule: after the first fruiting of remontant garden strawberries, the removal of the whiskers is usually not carried out, but the leaves that have begun to dry out, have formed spots or are hiding more developed and healthy leaves must be removed. Removing such leaves can be done in the fall, immediately after harvesting the entire crop, when the foliage slowly begins to dry out.

If you are a resident of a cold region, then take your time and postpone this operation to the spring, remove such leaves after the snow cover has completely melted.

Important! Many people neglect to trim dead leaves and tendrils of remontant garden strawberries, but their removal is like a shield that protects plants from pathogens, because it is on diseased, old foliage that the infection overwinters.

Autumn care and preparation for wintering

Long sunny day remontant strawberry plants often do not ripen fully by the end of the season, especially if they are not grown in a greenhouse. Taking this into account, not only is part of the harvest lost, but sometimes plants that do not have time to adapt to cold weather and frost also suffer. The best option to save such plants is to cover them with fresh straw 5-8 cm thick, and throw spruce branches on top, which will keep the straw from flying all over the area.

Bottom line

As you can see, growing remontant garden strawberries does not present any particular difficulties and even a beginner, not to mention a professional, can cope with this task.

Do not forget, however, even though we have already written about this, that the lifespan of the plantation should be no more than three years, after which the plantings need to be renewed.

The desire to have fresh strawberries on your table for a long time does not stop gardeners from facing difficulties. Some domestic varieties have a prolonged fruiting period, but there are also those that bear fruit twice a season. Breeders are working in this direction, creating new varieties of berries that can bear fruit from the beginning of summer until the onset of frost.

Description of remontant strawberries

Remontant plants are those that can bear fruit throughout the entire growing season. Some berry plants have this feature (raspberries, strawberries, wild strawberries).

All domestic varieties of garden remontant strawberries can be divided into 3 main groups, depending on the length of the day at which their buds form. There are long-day, short-day and neutral varieties.

Remontant strawberry

Remontant strawberries, which belong to the long daylight type, form buds regardless of the length of daylight hours. This period lasts from mid-May to mid-June. Fruiting occurs twice in the summer season. The first harvest is harvested in July, the second can be expected in August-September. During the first fruitful period, the bulk of the harvest is harvested (from 60 to 90%). This collection is distinguished by its large-fruited berries.

In representatives of varieties of remontant strawberries, which belong to the long daylight type, fruit ripening also occurs twice a season. The first time was in July, the last time was in August-September. But, unlike strawberries of the first type, such a plant during the first fruiting allows you to collect only a small part of the berries, while in August-September it is possible to collect from 60 to 90% of the fruits of the total harvest. Productivity largely depends on the age of strawberry bushes.

Representatives of day-neutral varieties begin to bear fruit starting in spring until the end of the growing season. Their flowering is cyclical and begins every 6 weeks. As a result, we manage to get 4 waves of harvesting. This greatly increases its yield compared to other varieties.

Growing from seeds at home

You can grow remontant strawberries using seedlings purchased from a garden nursery. Also, remontant strawberries grow well from purchased seeds; planting and care are painstaking and require maintaining the moisture level of the soil substrate (70-80%).

After laying the seeds on moist soil, they are covered with sand and lightly sprayed, and the container is covered with glass or a plastic bag. In central Russia, planting begins in mid-February, in warmer regions – 2 weeks earlier.

Remontant strawberry seeds

The soil should be slightly moist until germination. The temperature in the apartment is maintained within 18-20 degrees Celsius. After just 2 weeks, the first seedlings appear. After this, the container with the planted seeds is placed on the windowsill to provide access to sunlight.

Planting scheme

After 2-3 leaves appear, the seedlings are planted. This procedure is carried out approximately 45-60 days after sowing the seeds. The seedlings are transplanted into separate pots or into another box, leaving 5 centimeters between plants, deepening them by the same amount as they grew in a common container.

2 weeks before planting in open ground, seedlings are hardened. It is taken out into the air during the day to adapt to natural growing conditions. Only after this is it transplanted to open beds.

Planting in open ground

• radish;
• legumes;
• beet;
• garlic;
• parsley;
• calendula;
• mustard.

This plant should not be planted on soil on which the following were previously grown:

• tomatoes;
• cabbage;
• potato;
• cucumbers;
• raspberries.

Keep in mind! The selected area should be well illuminated by sunlight. Water should not collect on it. The soil should be sandy loam with a neutral or slightly acidic pH level. Loamy soil is suitable.

Planting seedlings in spring

Planting in open ground is carried out from the second ten days of May. Planting remontant strawberries before winter begins from the end of August until September. Planting and caring for garden remontant strawberries begins with preparing the soil. For planting in the spring, soil treatment is done in the fall; when planting in the fall, the soil is prepared in the spring. To do this, dig up the ground, add humus or compost, as well as wood ash.

Planting strawberries for seedlings

Approximately 30 days before planting seedlings, fertilizers are applied: 20 grams of potassium sulfate and 40 grams of superphosphate are used per 1 square meter. You can use the ready-made drug Kalijphos (1 tablespoon per 1 square meter is enough).

Planting scheme

Planting seedlings in the ground is carried out in two main ways:

1. Kovrov. This method uses a planting scheme in which a distance of 20x20 centimeters is left between plants.
2. Private. Plants in a row should be planted at a distance of 20-25 centimeters, leaving a row spacing of 70 centimeters.

Planting is carried out on a cloudy day. First, make holes in the soil and water them thoroughly, then place the seedling there (preferably along with a lump of earth). Two plants can be planted in one hole at a time.

How to care for remontant strawberries

Many gardeners are interested in the question of growing and caring for remontant strawberries. After planting seedlings in the ground, it is advisable to mulch the soil with straw, sawdust or pine needles. This helps maintain soil moisture. For this purpose, cover the soil with black agrofibre.

Proper care of strawberries planted in open ground consists of watering, loosening the soil, and removing weeds. It is necessary to feed it in a timely manner, as well as take measures to protect it from insect pests and diseases.

In early spring, ammonium nitrate is applied to areas with last year's strawberries. Then, at the beginning of summer, a second subcortex is carried out with ammonium nitrate.

In order to increase the number of fruits of remontant strawberries, the fruit bearings are removed in the autumn. Then the main autumn harvest will be significantly higher. But this should only be done for one- and two-year-old bushes.

After the summer harvest, the plants should be prepared for the second fruiting period. The soil cover should be loosened regularly. Also at this time, foliage is trimmed. In this case, the gardener must be careful not to remove the apical bud from the plant.

On a note. Typically, fruiting of remontant strawberries lasts 3 years. Then it should be replanted. This period depends not only on growing conditions, but also on climatic conditions and soil composition.

Watering

After planting, the seedlings are watered after 2-4 days. For last year's planting, the watering period begins at the end of April if there is insufficient precipitation. During May-June another 3-4 waterings should be carried out. In the subsequent period, these strawberries are watered every 2 weeks. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is moist at a depth of 2-3 cm. Dry soil means the need for watering.

Note! Remontant varieties need more moisture than ordinary strawberries. Watering is especially required during fruiting.

Top dressing

If phosphorus fertilizers were applied during planting, then this amount will be enough for the plants for the season. Then humus is added in a volume of 2-3 kg per 1 square meter.

At the beginning of summer, strawberries are fertilized with a 1-2 percent urea solution. When flower stalks appear, the beds are watered with a solution of chicken manure (8-10 parts of water). During one summer season, about 10 complex feedings are required. They are carried out until late autumn.

For strawberries, you can also use ready-made fertilizers: Kemiru, Kristallin or Mortar.

Replanting remontant strawberries

There is no point in replanting remontant strawberry bushes. Because her bushes have been alive for no more than two or three years, despite very good care for her. But if the question arises about replanting them, then this should be done in the fall, no later than 20 days before frost.

If such a transplant is carried out in the spring, then the remontant strawberries will not have time to produce a summer harvest. If plants that have produced flower stalks are replanted, it is recommended to remove them from the bushes to speed up adaptation.

Reproduction

In addition to breeding remontant strawberries by planting seedlings, they are propagated by means of mustaches. If it is necessary to enlarge a bed of remontant strawberries with the help of mustaches, its second harvest of the year will suffer.

During fruiting for the first time in the summer, the most developed and strong bushes should be identified. Then their mustaches are laid out in grooves made nearby. Other mustaches are cut from the mother bush.

Reproduction

A significant procedure is done a week before the time when the transplant is planned - this is trimming the mustache associated with the mother bush.

You can also propagate remontant strawberries by dividing the bush. This method is used if there is not enough planting material. To do this, dig up strong plants with a large root system. These are bushes from 2 to 3 years of age. They are dug up in early spring or autumn and divided into individual horns. Then they are planted in the soil in the usual way.

Secrets of planting climbing strawberries

Any strawberry in which the fruits form on the tendrils can be climbing. There are quite a lot of such varieties. It is grown both for decorative purposes and for berries. It can be grown in open beds, as well as in greenhouses, on balconies and even indoors.

In such varieties, the mustache can be placed on a vertical structure or in such a way that it falls down. Climbing strawberries do not require complex care. She does not need frequent weeding; when harvesting, she does not need to bend low to the ground.

As a disadvantage of this variety, one can point out the need for frequent watering, as well as more complex preparation for winter.

Growing remontant strawberries Delician

One of the new varieties of remontant strawberries is Delician. It was bred by American breeders. This is a large-fruited variety with abundant and long fruiting, lasting almost until the onset of frost. This variety can also be grown at home in a special container.

The berries are very sweet. The weight of one fruit is up to 50 g. The inside of them has a whitish tint. Therefore, it is not recommended to use them for recycling. Due to the large number of whiskers in this variety, their reproduction is easier.

When starting to cultivate remontant strawberries, it is necessary to take into account not only its taste, but also, if the summer cottage is located far from the main place of residence, its transportability should be taken into account. Such varieties can be chosen from a variety of varieties proposed by breeders from around the world.

In French, the word "remontant" means "to rise again" or "to bloom again." Remontant varieties of berries are distinguished by their ability to bloom and delight with fruits throughout the season. This property is inherent in raspberries, strawberries, wild strawberries and even citrus crops. Gardeners are in particular demand for remontant strawberries, which bear fruit twice during the growing season. And here they are easy to understand: who doesn’t like a double harvest of their favorite berry?

Strawberries of this variety differ from others in that already after the first fruiting, buds are laid and new berries are formed, which will become the next full-fledged harvest. But nothing happens for nothing. Due to their fertility, remontant strawberries have higher requirements for self-care, soil quality and watering, which must be done more often, unlike ordinary garden strawberries. However, if you calculate the average number of berries per bush, then remontant strawberries are inferior to more traditional garden ones.

But as practice shows, gardeners have an irresistible desire to harvest strawberries out of season, so they are ready to lovingly care for remontant strawberries. Growing this variety can provide the owner with a harvest of strawberries from mid-spring to late autumn.

Remontant strawberries, when compared with garden ones, have weaker foliage and smaller berries.

The reason for this is the overload of the harvest, because the plant is subject to serious stress, yielding crops twice a season. Judging by observations, the first batch of fruits produced turns out to be much less productive than the next. Typically the ratio is between 30 and 70%, with 30% being the first harvest.

It also happens that some bushes of this strawberry die after the first batch of harvest. Under the best conditions, a remontant strawberry bush can last 3 years.

In order for the second harvest to be as rich as possible, it is necessary to be able to properly limit the initial one. For these purposes, flower stalks are pruned.

How to plant remontant strawberries

People who are attracted to growing remontant strawberries should know that planting and care are carried out in a certain way.

As usual, the first step is to choose the variety you want. This can only be done by sampling the berries, so you should grow several at once, and then make the final choice.

The most suitable soil for planting remontant strawberries is the soil used for growing vegetable crops. To prepare such soil, you need to add 750 ml of water to 1 kg of soil mixture, and then mix thoroughly (there should be no lumps), then its moisture content will be 70-80%.

The next step is to fill a dense container (10-15 cm in diameter) with pre-prepared soil, leaving about 3 cm of space on top.

Strawberry seeds are scattered on top, then they should be sprinkled with dry soil and sprinkled with water from a spray bottle. In order for as many sprouts as possible to appear, the seeds must be exposed to sunlight.

The containers must be covered with a transparent polyethylene film on top and placed in a warm place. At the end of 3 weeks, the first shoots will appear; they require periodic watering.

It is customary to plant seedlings of remontant strawberries on beds that have been cleared of weeds in advance, loosened and fertilized in early May. This is done as follows: a hole is dug in the garden bed, it is watered with water, the roots are sprinkled with a special preparation and planted in the hole. The soil near the seedlings should be well compacted.

Caring for blooming strawberries

Growing remontant strawberries involves performing some simple steps. For example, a gardener must know when to prune and how to care for remontant strawberries. But in order to provide the roots with much-needed air exchange, you should constantly loosen the soil near the bushes. You need to add soil periodically to keep the roots from becoming exposed. This variety of strawberries needs to be watered not only with a watering can, but also with a ladle.

When the bushes bloom, they must be fertilized with minerals intended for strawberries and an infusion of bird droppings.

It is recommended to constantly weed. If berries are found lying on the ground, they must be lifted using a special wire support. Regular cutting of the tendrils helps to increase the size of the berries.

If aphids are found on strawberries, they are fought with a special solution, the ingredients of which are several cloves of garlic and 3 liters of water. This solution needs to be infused for a week, after which the bushes are treated with a spray bottle.

To get rid of unnecessary attention to your wasp berries, cups of sweet compote are placed around.

When planting in the fall, tearing off the first-order tendrils from the bushes is highly not recommended. Instead, they should be rooted in disposable plastic cups filled with soil. The cups are collected at the end of the season, then they are separated from the mother plant and planted in the garden. The distance between the bushes should be about 20 cm. They need to be watered very little. Remontant strawberries should survive the first frosts, after which all leaves from the bushes are cut off, and the bushes themselves are covered with something non-woven.

The sweet juicy strawberry has been known to mankind since ancient times. Archaeologists still find traces of it in fossilized deposits that are more than 60 million years old. But they began to grow the berry as a garden crop only in the 15th century, constantly improving the appearance and technical characteristics of the fruit.

Care and planting of remontant strawberries

Today, there are a huge number of different varieties of garden strawberries, among which remontant species occupy a special place. They gained their popularity due to their high yield - fruiting lasts throughout the summer until the first frost, that is, harvesting can be done 2-3 times per season.

How to choose seedlings

When purchasing seedlings, first of all, pay attention to its appearance. Planting material must meet the following characteristics:

• Developed root system: plant rhizomes should not be less than 6 cm;
• well-formed bushes have at least 3-4 true leaves without any defects (foreign inclusions, etc.);
• the central bud (heart of the bush) should be large and pink.

Choosing a landing site

The area for planting berries should have a flat or slightly inclined surface to the southwest. Do not plant strawberries in lowlands, because the air there is cooler than at higher elevations, and this significantly reduces the yield of berries. It is also not recommended to grow plants on a southern slope - early melting of snow can lead to the death of revived bushes under the influence of spring frosts. The planting area must be protected from the wind.

Lighting is an important factor for successful growth and development of berry bushes. Strawberries prefer well-lit areas, only in this case you will get a high yield of sweet and aromatic fruits. Bushes growing in the shade are characterized by low yields and sour, watery fruits.

For planting, choose light loamy soil. The area is first cleared of weeds and stones, mulching the ground at the same time. Remontant species grow well on mulch made from pine needles, green manure, hay, straw, and sawdust. Light soil retains moisture better, it warms up faster, which contributes to an earlier harvest.

Planting remontant strawberries

Planting remontant strawberries and it is necessary to care for it according to certain rules that every gardener who decides to start growing this crop should know. When planting seedlings, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

The timing of planting remontant strawberries is determined depending on the climatic conditions of the growing region. Active growth of rhizomes and foliage of the plant is observed twice a year: the first in spring, the second in summer. Therefore, seedlings are also planted in the ground twice a season. In spring, young bushes are planted after the top layer of soil has warmed up sufficiently (up to +12 degrees). Summer plants can be planted in the second half of July (from approximately the 25th) until mid-August.

But still, experienced gardeners recommend planting remontant varieties of strawberries in the spring. In this case, the bushes have time to adapt and take root well in the new area. When planting strawberries in mid-May, the first harvest can be obtained already in the second half of July, and from this moment the strawberries will delight you with delicious berries until the end of September.

Each gardener himself determines the planting scheme for remontant strawberries based on the characteristics of his site. The following types of landing exist:

• Carpet method. In this way, beardless Victoria varieties are usually planted. The distance between plants is: for large-fruited species - about 40 cm, for small-fruited species - 25 cm.
• Planting plants in rows. Strawberry bushes are planted in a continuous row according to a 30*70 cm pattern. This planting method is suitable for varieties that throw out tendrils and grow in width.

Features of care

Remontant strawberry varieties differ from others in the continuity of the fruiting process: as soon as the first berries ripen, new ovaries immediately form. Of course, it’s nice to enjoy delicious juicy strawberries throughout the summer season. However, to get a really good harvest, it is necessary to provide certain care for the plants.

Since remontant varieties They bear fruit several times during the summer; they require more fertilizing and watering.

Remontant strawberries need more frequent watering, especially in hot weather, when the air warms up to a temperature of +30 degrees and above. Make sure that during this period the soil is saturated with moisture by at least 3-5 cm. In order for the strawberry yield to be really high, it is necessary to ensure timely weeding, as well as loosening the soil. The procedure is carried out with great care, trying to preserve the integrity of the root system and tendrils of the plant. If you mulched the soil already during planting, in the future you can loosen it only occasionally.

Fertilizing strawberry bushes is carried out after watering. For this purpose, use a herbal infusion (wormwood and nettle), which is kept for a week in the open sun. This mixture contains the nutrients necessary for the growth and development of bushes. Before use, the solution should be filtered through a piece of cloth to prevent weed seeds from getting into the strawberry plantings. In addition, an infusion of bird droppings or mullein is used for feeding.

Growing strawberries from seeds at home

This method of growing strawberries is quite labor-intensive, however, despite this, it is very popular among gardeners because it allows you to grow fruits that having the desired taste.

Although growing strawberry bushes from seeds is much more difficult than from seedlings, many gardeners still prefer this method, since it allows them to obtain fruits with the desired taste. In order to harvest this season, it is necessary to sow the seeds on time.

When and how to sow

Optimal planting dates seeds are February-March. Plants planted during this period have time to fully develop before the onset of summer heat. In addition, bushes planted in early May give a full harvest at the end of the summer season. Remontant strawberry seeds can be planted directly in open ground. Over the summer, the seedlings will strengthen well, which will allow them to easily survive the winter.

The quality and composition of the soil are also important. To plant strawberries, you can purchase a ready-made substrate, treated with special agents against various diseases, pathogenic microorganisms and weeds.

You can prepare fertile soil yourself. To do this, you need to take peat (1 part), garden soil (2 parts) and sand (1 part). Add a little wood ash and rotted manure to the resulting mixture. Disinfect the substrate with a solution of Fitop-Flora-C or Ftosporin-M. Many people practice scalding with boiling water, but this results in an absolutely sterile environment, not entirely suitable for growing seedlings, since in this case the seedlings will have weak immunity.

Peat tablets, which contain all the microelements necessary for the growth of strawberry seedlings, are also quite popular. To plant seeds, you can use plastic cups, food containers or peat-humus pots, in which the seedlings are then planted in a permanent place without using the transshipment method.

The following methods of growing strawberries from seeds at home are practiced among gardeners:

Plantings must be ventilated and watered daily. Avoid mold or mildew. Water the young bushes with warm boiled water, using a teaspoon, since a strong stream from a watering can can uproot fledgling sprouts. The first shoots will appear in about 2-3 weeks.

To obtain strong, healthy seedlings, it is necessary to provide the seedlings with all the necessary conditions for normal growth and development. Strawberry seedlings need good lighting, so they should be additionally illuminated with warm or cold spectrum LEDs or phytolamps.

Watering should be regular, but it is necessary to avoid waterlogging of the soil, as well as its drying out. Picking of seedlings is carried out after the formation of two true leaves. The sprouts are carefully transplanted into separate containers, trying to maintain the integrity of the central root. Pinching the rhizome will cause overgrowth superficial roots, which will negatively affect the drought resistance of the bushes when transplanted to a permanent place.

This variety of sweet berry is becoming increasingly popular among gardeners. The plant can be grown as a house flower both in hanging bowls and flowerpots, and on window sills and beds. Climbing strawberries are famous for their incredibly tasty and large fruits. But in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary to provide the crop with appropriate conditions. The main feature of this subspecies is the formation of long mustaches, which require mandatory gartering to a support. Ampelous varieties tolerate a lack of light well, so they are suitable for planting in a greenhouse, on a terrace and balcony.

Planting and care

To plant ampelous strawberries, you need to prepare special soil from manure, compost and peat. A drainage layer (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel), about 10-15 cm high, is poured onto the bottom of the container, and a prepared soil mixture is placed on top, which is immediately watered. After the substrate settles, add it to the required volume. 1 plant is planted per hole, pressing each one with a small lump of earth. Before planting a seedling, it must be placed in a clay mash. This will help the bush to take root and take root faster.

To obtain a year-round harvest, several varieties of ampelous strawberries should be planted simultaneously. This variety of strawberry grows well on a windowsill, which allows you to enjoy the juicy berry even in winter.

To do this, just plant the plants in ordinary flower pots. This method of cultivation requires regular and frequent replanting (every 3-4 years), since over several years the soil fertility decreases, and you risk growing wild strawberries.

At first, planting requires frequent (3 times a day) and abundant watering. Adult plants need to be moistened every three days. They also periodically trim the tendrils, leaving no more than 5 pieces on each plant. In the second year of life, before flowering and fruit formation, strawberry bushes are fed with fertilizers.

Growing remontant strawberries on your windowsill or garden plot is not so difficult. If you follow simple rules and recommendations, you can get an excellent harvest of delicious sweet berries with a minimum of effort.