How to screw in screw piles. How to screw piles? Foundation on screw piles How to tighten screw piles
Hand-screwed screw piles, popular among individual developers, rightfully occupy a prominent place in construction practice. The use of specialized equipment and its personnel is expensive, requires timely preparation of the scope of work and confidence in the competence of the performers.
Driving screw piles yourself allows you to save money and distribute your efforts according to the availability of free time.
The feasibility of manual installation of screw piles
The attractive side of this type of foundation is the absence of excavation work; it is not even necessary to carry out planning within the contour of the building. Pile foundations are well suited for weak and water-saturated soils, being practically the only reasonable solution in such circumstances.
The blades in the area of the lower cut of screw piles significantly increase the bearing area compared to submersible or bored analogues.
The wider the diameter and the denser the soil, the harder it is to screw in the piles The pile shaft in the form of a steel pipe with a thickness of 3.5 mm can withstand significant loads with its own low weight. The piles arrive at the construction site in full factory readiness, without the need for additional manipulations. However, installing screw piles manually requires a correct assessment of your physical capabilities.
The effort required for installation depends on:
- pile diameter;
- diameter and number of blades;
- density and structure of the soil.
It is rational to use the manual method in cases where the base contains sandy, sandy loam or loamy soils consisting of dispersed particles with low cohesion. Manually screwing screw piles into rocky soils, especially those containing large inclusions or dense clay, may require too much effort and take extra time.
Site marking and preparation
Before starting work, wear out the axles
Unlike a strip or slab foundation, a pile field has a broken structure. Therefore, generating linear geometry can be difficult. When constructing a frame building, it is necessary to achieve the most accurate positioning of the pile not only in the longitudinal direction, but also in the transverse direction, ensuring the coincidence of the post and the pile head to prevent eccentricity in the application of loads on the crossbar.
Achieving this goal is not difficult, although it requires increased attention and accuracy. It is recommended to wear out the axles before starting work. This term refers to a pair of securely driven racks with a transverse planed board on which the position of the axis is marked with a nail.
They are perpendicular to the wall and spaced three to five meters from the intersection of the axes. The convenience of using such a system is the ability to remove or tighten the thread at any time between the marks indicating the position of the axes, so it does not interfere with the work and does not get lost.
The crosshairs of the axes are obtained automatically at the intersections of the threads. If they are at different heights and the point of their application is not clear, then a plumb line is lowered from the upper thread until it touches the lower, perpendicular one. The center of the pile is removed in the same way. From the corner intersection, the design distance is laid off along the axis and transferred to the ground with a plumb line, securing the point with a peg. To learn how to make markings for the foundation, watch this video:
Similarly, all center marks for installation of screw piles are set manually or mechanized. Another option, more expensive and more accurate, is staking using a laser total station. An instrumental reference for the position of piles allows you to eliminate inaccuracies associated with fastening the threads, measurement errors with a tape measure and errors from transmitting a point with a plumb line.
You should not save money and time on the installation of cast-offs; you will need it from the beginning of the foundation construction work until its completion.
Installation of piles
Three people are required to drive the piles Having completed the breakdown and removal of the centers of the piles to the area, it is possible to carry out “leader drilling”, which facilitates the tightening of the piles. A hole about half a meter deep and with a diameter close to the size of the pile shaft will save forces at the first stage and prevent the channel from moving away from the design one.
Since the main load is carried by the blades of the pile and part of the shaft, which is under soil pressure, a puncture below the relief level will not have a negative impact.
After passing through the preliminary channel, its positioning relative to the axes is checked. To do this, the tension of the thread is restored along the required axis, the plumb line is lowered and the amount of displacement of the well from the design position is specified. If necessary, it should be adjusted.
Without attaching a torque mechanism to the pile, it will be difficult to tighten the base Screwing the piles begins with preparing the head for the installation of levers that ensure the transmission of torque. Usually a special nozzle is used, fixed with a bolt on the upper cut of the pile or hole for passing the lever. The second option can lead to deformation and weakening of the upper section of the product, so it is better to limit its use to buildings that do not carry a significant load, for example, fences or sheds.
Having inserted levers of sufficient length into the eyes, usually three to four meters, and having fixed the pile in its initial position, they begin to rotate it, while simultaneously controlling the verticality using a plumb line or a building level. Thus, a minimum of three people are required to complete the job. To learn how to turn screw piles with a drill, watch this video:
For better control, you can move the axis on the cast-off by a distance equal to half the diameter of the pile and tighten the thread. This allows you to accurately maintain the position on the axis, correcting it if necessary, since a hand-screwed screw pile, especially when the head is still at a high altitude, is subject to asynchronous forces that easily disrupt its centering relative to the design position.
After the blades are immersed, the possibilities for adjusting the position of the pile will be minimal; excessive forces will lead to deformation or bending of the shaft.
Immersion depth and head mark
If the soil is dense, lay two piles side by side The elevation of the lower blades of the pile must be no less than the depth of soil freezing. This value is easy to control by measuring the height of the above-ground part of the trunk. If the soil contains large stones, preventing the blades from being driven to the desired level, one or two piles should be laid side by side.
Subsequently, you need to connect all the heads into one rigid structure with metal plates or a profile and support the crossbar of the lower frame of the building on it.
After all the screw piles have been screwed in by hand, making sure that their blades are at the specified depth, the above-ground sections are trimmed to the required height. The marks are transferred using a building level, a water level, a level or a laser plane builder. The excess metal is then cut off with a hand-held circular saw. Support tables are welded onto the head of the screwed pile and the crossbars of the lower frame are installed.
Do not forget to provide anti-corrosion protection to the steel elements welded to the pile with special paint or mastic.
A pile foundation in some cases is the only available solution. But perhaps few people know how to tighten screw piles with their own hands. Moreover, some people believe that it is simply impossible to cope with this task without additional special equipment.
Therefore, developers who want to do most of the work themselves in order to save as much as possible on the construction budget often begin to consider options for renting equipment. And they even doubt whether they will be able to lay the foundation without professionals. This article is intended, firstly, to dispel doubts: you can screw in piles, but not alone, but with the help of assistants. And secondly, to warn you: this work is hard, requiring precise calculations and good physical preparation.
How to tighten screw piles with your own hands, we learned from people who have successfully built houses on such a foundation. We offer you their experience so that you know what difficulties await you, what you need to be prepared for and what you will have to face.
A little theory: soil
A pile foundation can be erected on almost any land except rocks. And on some types of soil, only it can provide you with reliable housing. When screwing in piles, even if the soil in the area is not rocky, problems may arise with the pile leaving the design line. This is due to the collision of the propeller and an obstacle, which may be stones and large roots (less often, unidentified deposits from previous generations of owners of this site).
If there are a lot of stones and their occurrence is shallow, a pile foundation will have to be abandoned. If the fragmentary rocks are fragmentary, in most cases this type of foundation can be laid on the ground. The owner, who is not familiar with the nature of the soil on the site, will have to start drilling: several wells in different places will clarify their composition. In addition, wells can be started to be drilled at the site where the house is built.
Selection of piles
Screw supports are produced in a variety of sizes. Let's decide which piles are needed for your building.
- Typical diameters range from 47-108 mm. Thicker ones are already made and delivered to order. Diameter up to 76 mm - these are supports for a fence or auxiliary for strengthening buildings.
- Under light small houses and frame structures, you can install a pile with a cross-section of 90 mm and higher.
- The most popular of the standard ones is the diameter of 108 mm. One pile can support a weight of 3.5 tons. That is, the foundation on such supports will support a fairly large structure - except for two-story (and higher) stone ones.
- The minimum length of the pile should be equal to the freezing depth. On average it is 1.5 meters. However, longer supports are taken - it is easier and more reliable to trim it than to extend it. The most popular are 2-2.5 meter specimens.
Tools
You won’t be able to do without any of the tools listed below.
- Shovel. Land work is underway, without it - nowhere.
- Magnetic level. It needs to be adapted to the pile in order to control the verticality of its entry.
- Hydraulic level for leveling horizontal lines.
- Roulette.
- Crowbar - will serve as the basis for leverage.
- Screwing levers: two pieces of pipe, approximately 5 cm in diameter and 2.5 m long.
- Garden drill. They not only check the soil, but also make a starting hole for the pile.
- Twine for marking.
- Grinder with circles (installed supports are trimmed with it).
- Plus an extension cord to supply the equipment with electricity or a generator if there is no outlet nearby.
Screwing in piles
An accurate marking of the future foundation and the location of the supports under it are made.
- The holes are marked with a drill. They must meet two conditions: be less deep than the intended entry of the pile, and have a smaller diameter than the support. Otherwise, the pile screw will not be secured in the ground.
- Installation of supports begins from the corners. The pile is placed in the hole, and a level controller is attached to it. A crowbar is inserted into the pile and screwing begins.
- As the pile digs into the ground, it becomes harder to screw it in. When it is no longer possible to turn it with a crowbar alone, pipe-levers are put on it. Both participants need to lean on them with the same force, otherwise the departure from the vertical and from the marked location point will increase.
- The technology itself is simple. However, not a single pile will go in smoothly and accurately: different soil resistance and small obstacles deflect it to the sides. Tricks developed by experienced pilers are used.
Subtleties and nuances
Difficulties with screwing in screw piles can be associated either with the deviation of the support from the vertical, or with its refusal to enter the ground when it bumps into something. You can overcome problems in the following ways.
- When the support deviates from the vertical, its top falls in the direction where it is moving, and the pile is screwed in several turns in this position. Afterwards it straightens and the correctness of its position is checked. If the pile is already level, screwing continues as normal. If it is still not vertical, the procedure is repeated.
- If the screw hits an obstacle, the first thing you can try is to increase the pressure. The grinding noise that accompanies screwing in should not frighten: if the pile with resistance, but enters into place, it means that an obstacle has been encountered of the kind that it is able to destroy.
- The lack of progress indicates that the rock fragment is strong. The pile is removed from the ground and attempts are made to bring it to the surface.
- If the pile is screwed in just a little bit but is already stuck, most likely it has hit a layer of hard clay. You can try to at least partially go through it with a drill.
It is impossible to ignore a support that has sunk less than a meter: the entire structure can slide. A particularly alarming symptom is several such piles. There can be two ways out of the situation: either hire special equipment to screw them in to the required depth (which is quite expensive), or equip another foundation (which means even greater losses). However, such cases are rare: knowing how to tighten screw piles with their own hands, and having carried out high-quality preliminary reconnaissance, people usually, albeit with difficulty, cope with the task.
Building a foundation yourself is an act that commands respect. But many refuse this idea, believing that without special education, heavy construction equipment and a lot of free time, this is impossible. For many, this task seems impossible without the involvement of a team of experienced builders. But few people know that the use of screw piles can significantly reduce the cost of construction, and the process of constructing a pile foundation with your own hands will take only 1-2 days.
But, be that as it may, you can’t do without special tools. For work we will need:
- Screw piles suitable for your structure and future foundation plan. (If you were unable to select the piles yourself, our specialists are always ready to give a detailed and free consultation by phone or in the company’s office) However, let’s assume that you already have the piles.
- Heads 250*250mm ( if provided for by the project)
- Pegs for marking a pile field
- Shovel
- Roulette
- White metal marker
- Magnetic level
- Water level or level
- Scrap metal
- Two levers. ( Pipes 2-3 meters long, mounted on scrap metal)
- Grinder with cutting discs for metal
- Welding machine
- Generator (if there is no electricity on site)
- Cement, sand, water
- Container for mixing concrete mortar
- Anti-corrosion coating for weld processing
- As well as assistants, numbering three people.
Stages of installation of screw piles:
Before you start driving screw piles, you should mark the pile field. The structures must be installed at a certain distance from each other (no more than 3 m). If this rule is not followed, the foundation will not gain the required load-bearing capacity and sagging of the strapping beam may occur in the future.
2. Setting the perimeter.
Then follows the setting of the perimeter. First of all, you should measure the diagonals and install pegs in the four corners around the perimeter of the house. The formula for calculating the diagonal is shown in the figure.
3. Driving corner piles.
4. Screwing in the remaining screw piles.
First you need to dig a hole in the place you have outlined. The depth of the pit should not exceed 0.5 - 0.7 meters. Piles should be screwed into the ground to a depth of at least 1.7 meters to avoid bulging under the influence of frost heaving. The process of screwing in screw piles can be done either manually or using special devices.
A crowbar is inserted into the technological hole at the end of the pile. Next, on both sides you should put a larger diameter pipe on it, which will serve as a lever. A magnetic level must be attached to the pile shaft. The angle of inclination should not exceed 1.5- 2 degrees. Otherwise, there will be an uneven distribution of the load, and as a result, deformation of the pile.The reliability and quality of the foundation as a whole depend on the correct tightening of screw piles.
After this, the piles need to be concreted. To do this, you need to use a cement-sand solution of grade M150. Concreting screw piles is only necessary to remove all the oxygen from the cavity of the pile shaft, thereby protecting it from corrosion from the inside. (No oxygen - no corrosion!)
7. Installation of heads.
The final stage of installation is welding the ends. The head needs to be put on the pile and welded. The weld seam should be cleaned and then treated with an anti-corrosion coating.
With proper construction of a pile-screw foundation, it can last for decades. It is important to immediately stop saving on material for building the foundation.
When ordering piles from our factory, you can be sure of their quality. We cooperate with leading metal suppliers. Therefore, we offer optimal prices for the range we sell.
Despite the fact that you can install screw piles yourself, it is sometimes difficult to navigate the sequence of actions. Our factory offers the services of qualified installers. They will install piles efficiently, in accordance with current standards and regulations. The foundation on our screw piles is durable regardless of the type of soil.
We will always help you choose the product by diameter and type. You can also calculate the required standard size of piles for your project. Thus, you will save not only money, but also time. Today, a screw pile is the optimal material for quick and reliable construction of a foundation.
Have you decided to opt for a pile-screw foundation? We fully approve of your choice, and therefore we will give you some advice on how to install them correctly manually.
- — Advice: do not try to manually tighten piles with a diameter of 89 mm or more or piles with a immersion depth of more than 2.5 meters - human effort is not enough to screw the pile to the load-bearing layer of soil, which risks subsidence of the support under load during installation of the structure.
Basic rules for manual installation
Service life of screw piles will be more than 500 years if installed correctly. There are several main installation rules. Firstly, the pile must reach a solid layer of soil (for example, driving a pile by hand into sandy soils is very problematic). Secondly, the pile must be installed strictly along the vertical axis.
- - Advice: before installation, stock up on a magnetic level (be sure to be magnetic!), a shovel, a hand drill and two crowbars 2.5 - 3 meters long (the larger the arm, the easier it will be to rotate the pile).
Use a shovel to level the installation site, otherwise the pile may immediately go at an angle. Using a drill with a blade diameter smaller than the pile blade, drill a hole 50-70 cm, install the pile exactly according to the magnetic level. Insert a crowbar into the technological holes and try to turn the pile little by little. The optimal team composition is 3 people: one monitors the deviation of the pile (allowable angle is 1-2°), two tighten the pile. You can get a little help from companies offering foundation construction services.
A clear sign that the pile has rested against the load-bearing layer will be the deformation of the technological hole, which will be cut off at the end of the immersion. To make the pile go into the ground easier, it can be watered abundantly. After installing the pile, pour fine sand into the niches and fill it with water to compact it. And some more useful tips:
- - accuracy is required. If the blade hits a stone, you will deform the weld with excessive force;
- — in hard-to-reach areas (slopes, hard soil, narrow working space) you can use a small capstan (150 kg assembled);
- - if the pile still hits an obstacle, then you can try to leave it alone, provided that it is immersed below the freezing level of the ground by 20-30 cm (1-1.3 meters);
- — cutting of piles is carried out only when all foundation piles are screwed to the required level.
Did you find this work difficult or don’t have the right tool at hand? will be happy to help you resolve this issue by offering qualified assistance in installing screw piles and foundation construction in Moscow and turnkey areas. We not only work in full compliance with GOST, SNiP and ISO, but also provide services for the construction of individual and industrial structures, including their design.
— choose professionals with an impeccable reputation and extensive experience in the Russian construction markets!
in the photo - installing rifle piles manually
Professionals do not advise making and screwing in piles yourself - after all, this work is very responsible and there are no risks here. There is an opinion that installing screw piles is a very complex technical process that is impossible without special skills and special equipment. But no one bothers you to study different points of view, weigh the opinions of practitioners and specialists, and personally choose for yourself the option that seems optimal.
Preparations before installation
Be sure to consider the following points before calculating a screw foundation:
- The mass of your building;
- Basic properties of soil, its type;
- Soil freezing level;
- Changes in groundwater by season, their level;
- The load on the piles, which will be maximum;
- Availability of margin for trimming - when performing leveling.
When all these points are clarified, in accordance with SNiP 2.02.03-85, as well as the characteristics of the load-bearing capacity, the size of the structure is selected and the piles are calculated. To perform the calculation, it is best to consult with a professional - such a person will accurately determine the technical characteristics of the piles, which can be called limiting - this applies to any specific product manufacturer. Also, the specialist will tell you exactly how many piles you need for the job.
Next, markings should be made for the floor - the building plan is divided into rectangles specifically for this purpose. In terms of diagonal and dimensions, the permissible error is only a few centimeters. It is customary to start the procedure with the catch - they are the points for marking according to the drawing.
Before starting all work, construction debris and, in general, everything that could interfere with the process are removed from the site. If the installation of piles is carried out in winter, there is no need to remove snow. It is much easier to immerse structures in soft soil that is not frozen. You should remove snow only on the day you do the installation - but not before.
If you plan to use the installation to screw in piles, you should consider all access routes. A concrete mixer, for example, requires a 220 V power supply, as well as process water to prepare cement mortar - this is necessary in order to concrete the shafts of the structure.
Possible difficulties
Installation work can always be hampered by nearby trees, buried construction waste, and rocky soil. If there are poles or fences near the installation point, this will also complicate the process.
It should be noted that it is impossible to install piles at a distance of less than 300 mm from any buildings. And if the pile is placed near a tree or stump, you must remember that the radius of scattering of the tree’s roots is no less than the diameter of its crown.
Often, in the process of independently screwing screw piles, it turns out that there are stones in the soil. If their size is no more than 50 mm, then there will be no particular harm from such stones. But large stones get in the way - the process of screwing in the pile simply stops. Stones with a diameter of 50-100 mm, as a rule, do not create problems, but they can displace the tip of the pile, therefore, its axis will deviate from the vertical - you must understand this.
When the pile is unscrewed back, the installation site is usually excavated - this is done so that the pit can be cleared of stones. Then, installation work continues. The weight of the selected soil is again poured into the hole and it is thoroughly compacted.
If there are slabs or blocks of concrete, or other similar construction debris in the thickness of the soil, you are unlikely to be able to install screw piles in this place - at least, with your own hands.
When a large stone appears in the path of the pile right at a depth - even lower than the freezing level of the soil, it is not necessary to disturb it. When a stone is placed under the pile in this way, it will help it cope with the load; it will simply be distributed throughout the thickness of the soil.
Screw piles and anti-corrosion coating
In order to have a reliable foundation on screw piles, you should wisely choose an anti-corrosion coating. It doesn’t matter what type of soil you have - the cutting leading edges and the tip of the pile can wear off. However, there is no need to be afraid of this - in the soil at great depths, corrosion of piles is difficult.
It is necessary to provide protection against corrosion to that part of the structure that is located at the boundary of air and earth, as well as in the upper layers of the soil. Primer for metal is used only when building some kind of temporary buildings - the problem of corrosion is not relevant here. Cold galvanizing and bitumen mastic - these products are used in the construction of simple, low-rise structures - canopies, gazebos, etc.
If you install screw piles manually and the work takes place in slightly abrasive soil (peat, plastic wet clay), you can use a double combined coating - which contains two layers - both cold galvanizing and bitumen mastic. This coating will protect the foundation for many years.
In a situation where piles are installed on abrasive soil - crushed stone, small stones, sand, etc., it is necessary to apply a heat-shrinkable film to the anti-corrosion coating. Here the following will happen: the pile will be tightly covered with a polymer film, due to which it will gain additional strength. This will provide an excellent anti-corrosion coating, including against abrasion.
We install screw piles manually
When the piles are screwed in, the use of any drilling devices is not expected. Screw blades are welded on the bottom of the pile - it is thanks to them that the structure can be screwed into the ground. There is only one drawback of this method - a certain inaccuracy of installation (when compared with burying products or pouring concrete).
Equipment for installation work
When installing a foundation on piles, you can use a special device, or you can screw the piles in manually, especially if they are small. It is possible to use special equipment because this approach simplifies the process. But some errors in this case cannot be avoided. The work, in general, will lose a little quality.
Today there are not only very powerful heavy equipment, but also lightweight portable devices. For example, UZS 1 is a device for screwing piles. You can easily place it in a passenger car in the most complete configuration. This technique works flawlessly even in winter.
The operating instructions look like this:
- The hydraulic rotator must be installed in the shaft of the pile;
- The pile, like the hydraulic rotator shaft, is secured - there is a special locking pin for this;
- The pile, together with the attached hydraulic rotator, is lifted and installed at the point where the installation will be carried out;
- A lever is also attached to the hydraulic rotator - its end is attached to the ground, or given to an assistant to hold;
- By means of the hydraulic distributor lever, the petrol-hydraulic station is started - the pile is screwed in. It is also used to turn off the station after installation is completed.
A portable device for screwing in piles allows you to carry out installation work alone - a real boon for any home craftsman. The installation speed will be much higher than when doing the work manually. This technique can be used for the installation of structures whose trunk diameter is in the range of 80-135 mm.
Of course, UZS1 is unlikely to be suitable for installing a large foundation - for this, high-power installations are used, which are installed on heavy equipment - AZA-3, MZS-219. These devices are capable of driving piles with a blade diameter of 1000 mm.
Manual installation
DIY installation of screw piles
The manual method is chosen in situations where it is impossible to use the technique at all (for example, there is no entrance) or it is simply not economically profitable.
As a rule, the manual method is suitable for building a foundation in areas located outside the city - for not very large buildings - utility buildings, gazebos, bathhouses, small wooden houses, fences. Often this option is used to build a fence on the border of two areas - do not drive equipment for such a procedure.
If you have to screw in piles near a built house, it is better to do it by hand. Moreover, self-screwed screw piles are the cheapest option, especially when compared with the use of additional equipment. Here you will need a couple of assistants to complete the installation. Screw piles are twisted by hand in the following sequence:
According to the markings, a pile is mounted at the indicated point - this is done strictly vertically.
A crowbar or steel rod is inserted into the technological hole on the pile. Then this lever is extended - this can be easily done using a pipe if its length is 2.5 m or more.
The trunk must be guided by one assistant - strictly monitor its verticality. Two more take the lever and walk in a circle - this is how the structure is screwed in.
The pile sinks into the ground at the following speed - approximately 200 mm per revolution. If the conditions are the most favorable, then you will have to spend 10-15 minutes screwing in one pile (sometimes even faster). In general, a lot depends on the type of soil on the site.
If the blades that are screwed in reach a sufficiently dense layer and a couple of people with a lever whose length is 300 cm cannot turn the pile, it should not be immersed further. This indicates that the product has reached the ground, where the bearing capacity is very high. The foundation built on this soil will be very durable. That is, at this stage you must stop the pile - the main thing is that the depth is lower than the level of soil freezing.
To make installation more convenient and accurate, you should make holes for the piles in advance - this way you will be able to fit the product more accurately and easily.
About pruning
Even taking into account the fact that the immersion of the trunk is carried out gradually, while passing through different layers of soil, it will shift - to a lesser or greater extent. This can be explained by the presence of solid components in the soil. The blades simply collide with large rocks or roots. Thus, the upper level of all pillars, when installation is completed, should be set using a level - a laser or hydraulic level.
An optical rangefinder is used to determine the height of the trunks. If necessary, the upper end of the pile is cut off. If the pillars were screwed into plastic soil, then it is much easier to level the piles with additional screwing.
In the photo - trimming a screw pile using a grinder
Screw piles and concreting
in the photo - the process of concreting screw piles
Experts often disagree on this issue. Someone says that there is no need to concrete, since this measure is completely impractical here - after all, if a screw pile is made at a factory, it already has a mandatory anti-corrosion factory coating, which guarantees proper protection.
Others say that all installed piles should be concreted - this rule does not apply only to a temporary foundation that will be dismantled after some time. This procedure is performed as follows: cement mortar is poured into the barrel cavity. To carry out concreting in winter conditions, anti-frost additives must be added - you can’t do without it.
When a trunk is concreted, it is customary to seal its inner surface so that there is no corrosion of the pillar from the inside. A structure that has not been concreted will fill with water over time - and because of this, when cold weather sets in, it may rupture.
The outside of the trunk is not concreted - this should never be done!
When the installation is completed, the installation of the foundation begins. When a person has an idea of what the technology for installing screw piles manually looks like, one can draw a very simple conclusion: in many situations, manual installation is preferable. The manual method can be called more profitable - the price of a pile foundation consists of the cost of the piles themselves, as well as the work aimed at installing them.
Manually screwing in screw piles is an impressive budget saving, SvayProm - a portal about piles and foundations
in the photo - installing rifle piles manually. Professionals do not recommend making and screwing in piles yourself - after all, this work is very