How to care for begonia at home. Home begonia - growing and care secrets at home

One of the most popular and wonderful indoor plants is begonia, caring for it at home requires a lot of time and attention. Currently, there are many different species of this beautiful plant. Begonia began to be used for decorative purposes about 200 years ago and continues to this day.

It decorates gardens, parks, squares and window sills. There are two varieties of begonia: decorative-flowering and decorative-deciduous.

Tuberous begonia, which boasts its beautiful and large flowers, is considered widespread.

Flower care

Caring for this species is quite simple. Today there are many varieties of this plant. They vary in shape, size, color.

One of the reasons why this houseplant is so popular is its ability to bloom not only in summer, but also in winter. During the flowering period, the flowerpot is distinguished by its gorgeous large flowers and abundant landscaping.

Lighting

Indoor begonia loves bright light. This condition is especially important for flowering plants. In summer, it is necessary to darken the flower and avoid direct sunlight. If this is not done, brown spots will sooner or later appear on the leaves. Non-flowering plants require diffused light. It is better to place the flower on the east or west side of the apartment.

Temperature and humidity

An indoor flower requires 21-23°C in summer and 15-18°C in winter. Care at home also implies fairly high humidity, which is so necessary for the plant. This is explained by the fact that begonia originally grew in a tropical climate. Begonias should not be sprayed, as sunlight will cause sunburn on the leaves if water droplets remain on the leaves.

Watering

Indoor plants need to be watered abundantly, especially in hot weather. In this case, water should not accumulate in the pan. Watering is carried out with settled water when the soil dries out by about 1-1.5 cm. In winter, watering is significantly reduced, especially if the apartment is cold enough. If the begonia is tuberous, then do not forget that in winter it sleeps. The plant must be placed in peat and watering should be stopped completely.

Top dressing

Care at home requires special vitamin supplementation for plants, as over time the soil becomes depleted. The flower should be fed once every 14 days, as soon as it blooms. Nitrogen fertilizer is suitable for deciduous varieties. Such additives slow down the flowering process, but improve leaf growth.

In order to keep a plant in the house, you need to follow these simple rules. Begonia will delight you with an abundance of flowers and leaves only with proper care. As you can see, growing such a flower is quite troublesome, but its beauty is worth it.

Transplantation and propagation

So, growing a flower involves not only proper care, but also replanting, which is periodically necessary for the plant. This procedure is performed when the flower has already grown enough and a larger pot is required, or when the soil is completely depleted and the flower needs new soil.

There are no special requirements for the soil. You can buy soil at a gardening store or make it yourself. In order to create good soil for a plant, you need to follow several rules:

• the pot is half filled with leaf soil;
• peat and black soil are added in equal proportions;
• Sand is placed at the bottom of the pot.

If you properly prepare the soil, the plant will grow quickly and correctly and delight you with its flowering.

It is necessary to ensure that the roots fit freely in the pot. As soon as they become crowded, the flower requires immediate transplantation. Early spring is best for this. In order to make a transplant, you need:

• remove the plant from the old pot;
• clean the roots from old peat;
• place the flower in water with potassium permanganate;
• trim off rotten parts of the roots.

It is important not to fill the pot full of soil. It is necessary to wait for the roots to dry completely and add the required amount of soil. A newly transplanted plant requires regular watering. There is no need to place the flower on the sunny side, as after transplantation it is in a state of stress. He needs to be given time to get used to his new habitat. Transplanted begonia care at home requires more painstaking care. As a rule, adaptation takes up to 1 month.

When the flower has grown sufficiently, we can talk about its reproduction. This process can be carried out in 3 ways:

1. Leaf cuttings;
2. Stems;
3. Dividing the bush.

Each type has its own characteristics. If you neglect these rules, then the begonia will not only not bloom, it simply will not live. Tuberous plants reproduce by seeds or tubers.

Propagation by tubers:

• remove the tubers from the ground; this should be done in the autumn;
• trim leaves;
• clean the roots;
• place the peeled tubers in peat;
• keep the plant at a temperature not exceeding 11°C.

To germinate the first shoots, the plant must be transplanted into a pot with sandy soil. Next you need moderate watering.

This begonia germinates very slowly. Therefore, it is necessary to wait for the roots and first shoots.

If everything is done correctly, then sooner or later the flower will begin to grow, bloom and multiply. Do not forget that this is a living organism and you also need to monitor it.

Features of flowering

The most common plant found among gardeners is red begonia. She earned this name thanks to her beautiful bright red flowers. These luxurious flowers will not go unnoticed and will definitely cause delight.

Begonia can bring a festive atmosphere, even if placed in the darkest corner. This is a constantly flowering plant. So, it will decorate the garden from June to September, and the apartment from April-May to October.

If the begonia does not bloom, then most likely the problem lies in improper maintenance: poorly chosen temperature conditions, too frequent watering, oversaturation with fertilizers, it has not been replanted for a long time. Once the conditions are right, the begonia will bloom again.

Often the plant is not pleasing to the eye due to diseases. Thus, the most common disease is considered to be fungus. This disease occurs when the plant suffers from excess moisture. It is necessary to carefully monitor its central part and lower leaves. It is in these places that the first signs of the disease appear first. If such a problem takes you by surprise, it is necessary to reduce the number of waterings and remove injured areas.

Red spider mites may appear on begonias. A special solution will help get rid of it. After processing, the flower is placed in a bag.

Begonia is a plant that has certain characteristics of life in winter. Proper care of the flower at this time will keep it in good condition. Let's take a closer look at how to properly care for this plant at home.

Features of winter care

Begonia is a plant that constantly grows, with virtually no period of absolute dormancy. Favorable external conditions are important for a flower to “feel” good in winter. An indicator of such well-being is the bright color of its leaves. If the color of the foliage changes, this indicates that the plant is getting sick.

Begonia tolerates wintering quite well. The flower overwinters without any negative consequences only if it is properly cared for. So, in order for begonia to grow well, certain microclimate parameters must be maintained in the room where it is located. Temperature conditions in winter are important for begonias. During the cold season of the year, the plant does not require high temperatures. Experts recommend changing the temperature slightly. This will keep the plant in good condition.

During the winter period, you should also monitor the regularity of watering. Begonia needs moisture. However, overwatering can cause the plant to develop fungal diseases.

Another important indicator to monitor is humidity. Due to the fact that heating devices operate indoors in winter, this microclimate indicator changes. So, too dry air in the apartment can cause begonia leaves to lose their natural turgor. Plant care experts recommend moving this ornamental plant away from a heating device (for example, a radiator) in winter. This will help reduce the risk of developing possible leaf damage.

Basic Rules

Caring for indoor begonias in winter is quite simple. At the same time, experts still recommend preparing in advance for winter. So, it is recommended to replant the plant (if required) before the onset of cold weather. This will protect the plant’s root system from damage and will not interfere with its further good growth.

Proper care of this plant depends on its variety. There are quite a few varieties of this flower. For example, tuberous begonia varieties can be grown both on your own windowsill and in open ground. It is recommended to dig garden tuberous plants out of the soil at the end of November. In this case, be sure to trim off the remaining shoots. It is recommended to do this in such a way that the remainder of the cut shoot is no more than 1.5-2.5 cm.

After the begonia tubers are processed in this way, the remaining soil substrate must be removed from them. After this, they should be stored. It is recommended to store dug tubers in a room with good ventilation. This is necessary to prevent rot from appearing on them. The time for such thorough drying should be 2 weeks. After this, the dried begonia tubers can be transferred to a box for further storage. In the room where they are located, the humidity should be 75-80%, and the temperature - +10-12 degrees Celsius.

If this tuberous plant is not in open ground, then there is no need to remove it from the pot for the winter. At this time, it is very important that the begonia is in comfortable conditions. In winter, it is recommended not to replant and propagate tuberous indoor begonia. And if the pot with the plant is in a too cold room, then it is better to insulate it a little. This will reduce possible damage to the root system.

Watering

During the winter season, this plant does not require frequent watering. There is no need to allow it to dry out. Insufficient moisture supply can lead to damage to the root system. If liquid accumulates in the soil substrate, then pathogenic microorganisms may appear there. If there are heating devices in the room, then the flower needs more frequent watering. You can determine whether a flower needs watering by touching the soil with your finger.

Temperature

In winter, indoor begonia does not need high temperatures for its good growth. Experts recommend reducing this figure slightly during the cold season. So, to maintain good flower functioning, it is recommended to reduce the temperature to +15-16 degrees Celsius. If it is not possible to create such a temperature regime in winter due to the active operation of heating devices, then in this case you should definitely monitor the regularity of watering. It is believed that at a temperature of +22-25 degrees it is necessary to water the plant more often. Experts note that in winter, even with changes in temperature, begonia may look slightly different than in summer. For example, the leaves of a plant become less bright and acquire a pale color. It is also possible to change the shoots of the plant.

Due to changes in daylight hours, the shoots may elongate slightly.

Humidity

Since heating devices are turned on in winter, the air in the room becomes too dry. To avoid damage to the flower, it is recommended to maintain a certain humidity in the room - 70-80%. You should not allow this indicator to decrease too much, as this may cause the foliage of the flower to become less bright.

If the humidity in the room decreases, then it is necessary to increase it. Home appliances - humidifiers - can help with this. If there is no such device in the house, experts recommend spraying the air in the room. This should be done so that drops of moisture from the spray bottle do not fall directly on the flower. It is better to spray at a short distance from the plant.

Lighting

In winter, insolation decreases. This certainly has an impact on ornamental plants. If there is very little sunlight, the leaves begin to turn pale. In this case, experts recommend that you definitely think about changing the lighting. To do this, they advise moving the plant closer to the window.

You can remove begonia from the windowsill for the winter if it blooms. During the flowering period, this ornamental plant does not need much light. And also at this time it is very important that the flower receives scattered sunlight. Exposure to direct sunlight can negatively affect the condition of begonia leaves.

Top dressing

You should not enrich the soil in which begonia is located in winter with mineral fertilizers. It is recommended to feed the decorative flower only in the spring, when it begins to grow more actively.

Trimming

Many people who have begonias in their home are interested in the question of whether it is necessary to prune them in the winter. Experts say that this procedure should be avoided in winter. They note that if the foliage of a given plant remains in good condition, then it is not worth pruning it in winter.

Possible problems and illnesses

In winter, begonia is quite vulnerable to various diseases. The risk of such diseases increases significantly if the flower is cared for incorrectly. One of the fairly common problems that are recorded in begonias in winter is severe dryness of the edges of the leaves. In this case, the damaged leaf may even curl into a tube. As a rule, the begonia almost withers in the pot due to a decrease in humidity in the room and an uncomfortable temperature for the plant. In this situation, when begonia grows poorly, experts recommend moving the plant to another location. If the decorative flower was standing on the windowsill, then it should be removed to a less lit place.

Improper watering can cause fatal damage to begonias. The plants die due to the fact that the root system is significantly damaged. If water has accumulated in the tray with the pot where the flower is located, then the moisture must be removed immediately. In this case, the frequency of watering should be reduced.

A change in leaf turgor may be caused by the fact that the flower is located quite close to the slab. This problem occurs quite often in winter also because, in addition to household appliances, heating appliances also operate. This, in turn, contributes to changes in humidity and temperature in the room, which leads to the fact that the begonia leaves begin to wither. At the same time, the flower looks drooping.

If unfavorable conditions occur, begonia may get sick. One of the diseases of this decorative flower is rot that develops on the stems or roots. The appearance of such manifestations on the plant is largely facilitated by stagnation of moisture in the soil substrate. In such a situation, experts recommend be sure to reduce the frequency of watering the plant, and also measure the humidity in the room where it is located.

Severe leaf drop is another problem that begonia lovers may encounter in winter.“Forcing” a flower to have lush green leaves all year round can be quite difficult in some situations. Experts note that if the leaves of this decorative flower begin to fall off significantly, then in this case it is recommended to pay attention to where it is located. Quite often, this problem is caused by wind chilling of the leaves. This is often caused by finding begonias on a drafty windowsill. If the leaves of an ornamental plant begin to fall off significantly, it is recommended to move it away from the window and also protect it from any drafts.

Begonia is one of the most popular and valuable indoor plants, as it is loved not only for its bright and lush flowers, but also for its unusual asymmetrical leaves. Under natural conditions, begonia is found in the tropical forests of America, Africa and Asia, but it is quite easy to grow at home.

In this article we will look at not only the most popular begonia varieties for home cultivation, but also the main features of caring for the plant.

Home begonia: plant description

From the point of view of botanical classification, there are about a thousand varieties of the crop. In addition, breeders have bred more than two thousand hybrids of this crop.

Figure 1. Species diversity of the crop

This diversity of species significantly complicates the description of the plant. For example, indoor species may have flexible shoots or resemble the shape of a small shrub (Figure 1). In addition, depending on the variety, flowers can be annual or perennial. There are also evergreen and deciduous varieties. The only common characteristics are asymmetrical leaves and lush, bright inflorescences.

Caring for begonia at home

Regardless of the variety, the flower should be provided with optimal growing conditions at home. Since this crop is tropical, indoors it needs to be provided with conditions that will resemble its natural growing environment.

How to care

The basis for successful crop care at home is consistency. The flower reacts negatively to frequent rearrangements, so when buying a plant in a store, immediately think about where it will stand (Figure 2).

Note: Since under natural conditions the flower is found in the tropics, it is better to place it in a well-lit place, but without exposure to direct sunlight. This lighting mode can be achieved by placing the pot on an eastern or western windowsill.

The room temperature should be moderate, about +18 degrees, regardless of the season. However, in summer, when the room is hot, the crop will not experience serious discomfort.

Figure 2. Basic stages of flower care

It should also be taken into account that this crop is very sensitive to air humidity. As a rule, spraying is carried out to increase humidity, but for begonia this procedure is contraindicated, since water getting on the leaves of the crop can cause the formation of dark spots. To increase air humidity, it is recommended to use special air humidifiers, or place the pot in a tray with wet expanded clay.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that the culture has a negative attitude towards drafts and cold air. Under such conditions, the plant may become sick or begin to shed its leaves.

Pots and soil

When planning to grow this flower, you should choose a pot in which the flower will grow. When selecting a container, it should be taken into account that it should be only a few centimeters larger than the diameter of the earthen ball, since in large pots the root system of the crop may suffer from excess moisture, and the plant itself will form buds more slowly.

The soil must be special, so it is better to buy it in a store. But, if desired, you can prepare it yourself by mixing two parts of leaf soil with one part of peat, sand and humus.

Landing

When planting a flower in a pot, you must take care to remove excess moisture from the roots. To do this, a drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the container, and on top it is covered with a layer of charcoal, which acts as a disinfectant material that prevents root rot.

Next, a seedling is placed in the center of the container along with a lump of earth, and the free space is filled with substrate. After this, the flower must be watered and placed in a permanent, well-lit place.

Watering

Watering must be balanced. In other words, the earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out or become waterlogged.

Despite the fact that begonia is a moisture-loving plant, it should not be watered too often or abundantly. It is much more important to maintain an optimal level of humidity in the room. Dry air can cause leaves to dry out.

In the summer, when it is hot outside, watering should be quite abundant, but it is important to ensure that the water does not stagnate at the roots. Determining that your pet needs watering is very simple. To do this, just check the soil moisture: if it has dried to a depth of one and a half centimeters, the flower can be watered. In winter, watering is kept to a minimum, avoiding waterlogging and freezing of the roots.

Fertilizer

It is impossible to imagine growing indoor crops without timely application of fertilizers. The type of fertilizer depends on the plant variety. For ornamental flowering species, complex fertilizers are used, which are applied during the formation of buds, as well as phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which are used during the formation of ovaries.

Decorative deciduous species require nitrogen supplements, which help the plant grow green mass faster.

Transfer

Care necessarily includes regular replanting of the plant. It is best to carry out the procedure in early spring, when the plant is just beginning to emerge from the vegetative dormancy stage and will not experience serious stress from replanting.

Note: You can determine that your flower needs replanting by the appearance of the plant. If its roots begin to protrude above the surface of the soil or hang out of the pot, it is time to move the flower to a larger container.

Transplantation is carried out using the transshipment method (Figure 3). The plant is carefully removed from the pot, the roots are cleaned of old soil and placed for 30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Next, you need to rinse the roots under running water and trim off all damaged parts. After this, the root system should dry out. Only after this can the culture be moved to a new pot.

Figure 3. Step-by-step plant transplantation

It is important that after transplanting the crops must be put back in their original place and the first time after the procedure the crop must be watered abundantly. It should also be taken into account that young specimens tolerate transplantation much better, while adult plants experience serious stress from this procedure. In addition, large bushes can be difficult to replant, so during the process it is better to divide the bush into several parts and plant them in separate containers.

Begonia in winter

Winter care depends on the type of plant. For example, bush and ornamental species need a long rest period, during which the crop will begin to form new flower buds. To do this, you need to maintain a stable temperature in the room at +15+22 degrees, and also install air humidifiers or hang wet towels over the radiators, which will increase the level of humidity in the room.

In tuberous varieties, the period of vegetative dormancy begins in autumn. During this period, the leaves begin to gradually dry out and fall off, so watering should be kept to a minimum. When the above-ground part of the plant has completely dried out, watering is stopped, and the pots with tubers are transferred to a dark room and stored at a temperature no higher than +10+15 degrees. In some cases, tuberous species show no signs of entering vegetative dormancy, so you need to let the plant rest on its own. To do this, the above-ground part of the crop is cut off and watering is stopped.

Indoor begonia - propagation

When growing this crop at home, you should familiarize yourself with information about its propagation to obtain young specimens of the plant. Features of reproduction will be discussed in more detail below.

How to propagate begonia

There are two main methods of propagation - seeds and vegetatively. At home, it is better to use the vegetative method, since it is much simpler and more effective, and for this purpose you can use not only dividing the bush and tubers, but also leaf and stem cuttings.

Growing from seeds

Despite the fact that growing begonia from seeds is considered an unpopular method, it is relatively simple and not labor-intensive.

When the flowering period is over, you should collect the seeds and save them until February or March. During this period, sowing is carried out, evenly distributing the seeds over the surface of the soil. After this, the bed should be sprayed with water, covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, well-lit place.

Seedlings need to be sprayed with water daily or watered through a tray. When the first shoots appear, the cover is removed, and after the formation of 3-4 true leaves, the sprouts should be picked into separate containers. In two months the sprouts will become stronger and can be transplanted into a permanent pot. With proper care and good lighting, flowering of a crop grown from seeds occurs already in the first year.

Reproduction by dividing the rhizome (tuber)

To propagate deciduous varieties, the rhizome division method is used. The procedure is carried out in early spring, until the plant has entered the active growth phase.

Figure 4. Reproduction by dividing the bush

To propagate a plant using this method, you need to remove the adult plant from the pot and divide it into several parts (Figure 4). It is important to ensure that each part contains not only a fragment of the rhizome, but also several shoots or buds. After this, all sections must be treated with crushed coal and placed in separate containers.

Propagation by cuttings

Cuttings are one of the most effective ways to propagate indoor plants, and begonia is no exception. To prepare cuttings, you need to cut shoots with several leaves, and treat all sections with crushed coal for disinfection.

After this, the cuttings are immersed in a substrate of sand, deciduous and peat soil in equal proportions and placed in a warm, well-lit place. It is important to ensure that the cuttings are not exposed to direct sunlight.

Figure 5. Features of plant cuttings

Caring for cuttings includes regular but moderate watering, which is carried out after the soil has dried 1-2 cm deep. If you do not have a special rooting substrate, you can simply place the cuttings in water. Regardless of the chosen rooting method, the process of root formation takes no more than a month, after which the sprouts can be planted in separate containers (Figure 5).

Leaf propagation

Most varieties of the crop have fairly large leaves, which can also be used for propagation, and a young crop can be grown not only from a whole leaf, but also from part of it (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Growing a flower from a leaf

If you are using a whole leaf, you need to make cuts on its inside (along the main veins) and place the leaf on wet sand with the cuts down. The substrate's moisture should be maintained through a pan of water.

The process of root formation takes about two months. During this time, young roots are formed at the site of the cuts, which gradually turn into young plants. When they begin to actively grow, they can be planted in separate pots filled with a mixture of peat, sand and deciduous soil in equal proportions.

Pests and diseases of begonia

Begonia, like other indoor plants, can be damaged by diseases and pests. Of the pests, the flower is most often affected by thrips and spider mites. These insects feed on the sap of the plant and gradually weaken it. If measures are not taken in time and treatment with insecticides is not carried out, the crop may completely die.

Among diseases, the crop is most often affected by fungal diseases (for example, powdery mildew) and gray rot. Such diseases occur if the plant was not properly cared for, in particular, if it was watered too often and abundantly. To eliminate the disease, you need to reduce watering and treat with fungicides.

Sometimes the bush becomes a victim of bacterial diseases - cucumber mosaic, wilt or spotting. There are no cures for these diseases, so the plant will have to be destroyed along with the earthen clod.

Begonia dries

There are situations when there are no signs of disease or pest damage, but begonia still loses its decorative effect. For example, its leaves may begin to dry out. This process is caused by high temperature and low humidity of air and soil.

To restore the health of the plant, it needs to be watered and moved to a cooler place. To increase air humidity, the flower pot should be placed in a tray with wet expanded clay.

Begonia turns yellow

The yellowing of the flower may vary. If yellow spots or rings begin to appear on the leaves, this indicates a bacterial infection. There is no point in treating such a plant, so it is simply destroyed.

If all the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither, this means that the soil in the pot is too wet and the plant itself is cold. Watering should be temporarily stopped, and the flower should be moved to a warmer room.

Types and varieties of begonia

There are many types and varieties of this crop, and it is difficult to give a clear classification of the crop (Figure 7).

Popular types of begonia include:

1. Tuberous: may have simple or double inflorescences, the shade of which varies from white and yellow to bright red and orange;
2. Everblooming: this type is considered the most popular in indoor floriculture. Externally, the plant resembles a small shrub, and it can be grown not only at home, but also in open ground. The flowers are small and may be white, pink or red;
3. Royal: refers to decorative deciduous species. The leaves are large and can reach 30 cm in length, and their shape depends on the variety or hybrid;
4. Ampelnaya: considered a subspecies of tuberous varieties. Most often used as an ornamental crop for vertical gardening. The length of the shoots can reach 50 cm, and during the flowering period they are covered with numerous small flowers of white, yellow, orange or crimson hue.

Figure 7. Popular types of begonia: 1 - tuberous, 2 - ever-flowering, 3 - royal, 4 - ampelous

It should be borne in mind that in addition to the main types of begonia, there are about 2 thousand hybrids of this crop, so choosing a suitable flower variety for home cultivation will not be difficult.

The video shows how to plant the popular tuberous begonia.

The majestic begonia (one of the varieties was not called royal for nothing) is a unique flower. One of the few tropical plants, the species of which combine several different classes, begonia can climb like a vine, grow as a bush or a small leafy cap, and delight the eye with a variety of colors of buds or foliage. All this is begonia. Care at home - the photos speak for themselves: the flower is incredibly beautiful.

Begonia bush.

Begonia creeper.

Begonia blooming.

Begonia leaves.

Together with the website portal, we will learn more about the exotic guest, talk about caring for the plant, the characteristics of begonia propagation, analyze the difficulties that can arise with improper care, and study the varieties of the flower with photos and names. The homeland of begonia is the hot tropics, or rather the Antilles. The plant was first found and described by the French biologist Charles Plumier in 1687. However, the exotic flower received its name thanks to the “sponsor” of the expedition, Michel Begon.

The Antilles - the birthplace of begonia

The main feature is abundant flowering all year round. Begonias “fall asleep” for a short time. And young plants with still unripe tubers can generally “boycott” the regime of winter sleep and rest.

Begonia is very popular among breeders. So much so that there are twice as many hybrid forms as decorative varieties. Of the three thousand known flower variations, two are hybrids.

They thrive in damp, shady places – in rock crevices and tree roots. Distributed in the subtropics of America, Southeast Asia and Madagascar and Hawaii.

Begonia in Hawaii.

There are types of flowers that are not afraid even of salt water. In the Philippines, begonias do well on limestone cliffs. In the Andes and Himalayas they can grow high above sea level. There are also succulent forms that absorb water into the tubers. There are artificially grown ones, for example, this begonia is shaped like a Japanese bonsai tree.

Begonia Bonsai Schmidt.

Begonia - brief botanical information

By type, begonias can be divided into annual and perennial. Plants are so diverse that it is impossible to describe all its characteristics. However, there are some features common to all begonias:

• leaf asymmetry;

Royal begonia leaf.

• flowers are bright: white, yellow, red, pink, edging possible;

In terms of beauty and richness of its buds, begonia can compete even with the queen of flowers – the rose.

• fruit, if they are not removed, they have the shape of a box. In nature, this is how a plant reproduces - the film bursts and the seeds are carried away by the wind.

The seeds of some types of begonia are extremely small - there can be up to 75 thousand of them in one gram.

There are many types of begonia. There are evergreen varieties, there are deciduous, perennial and annual, outdoor and indoor, creeping and tall. In floriculture, the following classification is usually used: decorative deciduous and flowering. Types of indoor begonias, photos with names, let's look at them right now.

Types of decorative foliage plants: names and photos

This group contains those representatives of the large begonia family that are distinguished by unusual foliage. Decorative deciduous begonias, look at the photos and names.

Royal

Begonia Royal.

The homeland of this variety of begonia is India and Asia. Leaves of unusual shape and bright color. The veins of the leaves are usually lighter, the flesh is darker. The photo shows a variety of royal begonia - Rex.

Begonia rex.

In Russia, the flower discovered by the Frenchman was jokingly called “Napoleon’s Ear,” comparing it with the ears of the commander who shamefully fled from snow-covered Russia in 1812. Royal begonia (photos of varieties) in home care is a capricious plant, afraid of drafts.

Varieties of Royal Begonia.

The flowers here are more modest. High humidity is required. Caring for Rex begonia at home: the rhizome of the plant spreads along the top layer of soil, so a shallow but wide pot is suitable for the flower.

Tiger

Unlike its predecessor, tiger begonia is an artificially bred plant. This unusual indoor begonia flower, as in the photo, will become a decoration and natural ionizer for any apartment.

Tiger begonia.

The leaves have a specific color, from a distance reminiscent of a tiger, with white fluff on the edges. Quite a compact flower. Tiger begonia at home requires some care; the photo shows a rare flowering of tiger begonia.

Tiger begonia blooming.

In order to ensure bright and deep color of the leaves, it is necessary to remove the flowers from begonias of this type. Then all the strength of the plant will go into the growth of leaves. The same is done with old leaves.

Cleopatra

Belongs to the type of bush begonias. The flower is long-lived; with proper care, the age of the plant can reach 4-5 years.

Begonia Cleopatra.

To increase the lifespan of begonias, “rejuvenation” is necessary - annual division of the bush. This is usually done in the spring, when the plant is replanted or cuttings.

Cleopatra is a miniature flower of an interesting color. The leaves are fluffy with light fluff, resembling frost from a distance.

Coral

This type of begonia is one of the hardiest plants. It has strong leaves and a thick, bamboo-like stem. This begonia is loved because it is tolerant of drying out, precisely because of its “margin of safety.” Here the flowers look like bunches of barberries.

For active flowering, the plant needs rich daylight, but it should not be placed in direct sunlight. This may burn the leaves. However, too much shading may result in the flower not blooming at all.

Soil selection

It is better to choose slightly acidic soil with a small amount of peat for begonias. A universal primer will also work. However, it needs to be given additional looseness. For this you can use vermiculite, perlite or coconut fiber.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW!

Before transplanting, the soil must be disinfected. This can be done in the oven at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.

Soil preparation.

Option for soil composition for begonias: equal parts sand, peat and rotted mullein. Or part of leaf soil, the same amount of coniferous soil and the same amount of sand.

Temperature and humidity

The ideal temperature for begonias is from +21 to -28°C. If the temperature problem is more or less solvable, but with humidity it’s more and more complicated. The easiest option is to use humidifiers. The most plausible (you can’t put a humidifier on every window) are pallets with expanded clay.

Plant moisturizing option.

Expanded clay must be constantly moistened.

But begonia leaves don’t like moisture! Do not spray them with water under any circumstances!

The water from the expanded clay will evaporate, and the humidity around the flower will increase.

Optimal lighting

The plant loves light, especially its flowering species. But the difficulty lies in the fact that when exposed to direct sunlight, the delicate leaves of begonias can get severe burns. The plant feels best on the eastern and western sides of the premises. If it is not possible to rearrange the plant, then shade the windows or cover them with film or paper.

Watering and fertilizing

The plant loves water. However, it must be remembered that excess moisture is detrimental to the root system. It is necessary to water only when the soil has dried out at least one and a half to two centimeters. And this depends on the conditions of detention and the season. In winter, watering is reduced, and tuberous species are cut off and placed in peat.

Begonia on the windowsill.

It is important to take into account the weather and humidity. If you plan to leave, hydrogel will help a lot. We talked about how to use it earlier. The bottom line is this: it retains moisture and gradually, as the soil dries, releases it. If there is no hydrogel, drainage can be used.

During flowering periods, fertilizing can be carried out at least every day; to do this, dilute the fertilizing solution in the watering container twice as weakly as usual. Then feeding the plant will not seem stressful to it. Any mineral fertilizers are suitable for these purposes. There are special ones for different types of begonias.

For flowering types of begonias, nitrogenous fertilizers cannot be used; they inhibit the formation of buds!

Transfer

Transplantation is a necessary condition for the long life of a plant. First of all, it is carried out immediately after it enters your home. Most often, purchased varieties are planted in soil that is not intended for this purpose.

The general procedure for transplantation is:

1. Water the plant generously. This is necessary in order to remove it from the mold more painlessly. We wait a day so that the plant is not wet, but slightly damp.
2. We decorate the pot. To do this, drainage is placed in the prepared container. Next - 3 cm of charcoal.
3. We replant the plant, adding soil around it. At this stage, it is important to free the rhizome from the old soil.
4. After this, the flower must be watered.
5. During the first month, the flower will adapt to new conditions. You should be especially careful at this time. Avoid temperature changes and drafts, as well as overheating of the plant.

It is best to replant a houseplant in mid-March. It is at this time that there will be enough sunlight for the flowers.

If you have questions about planting tuberous begonias at home, watch the video:

Features of winter care for begonias

Tuberous begonias must be pruned. It is necessary to leave only 4 cm. The tuber is dug up directly with a lump of earth and placed in boxes for storage.

Pruning tuberous begonia for the winter.

The first stage is drying the roots, the second is pruning the shoots. The tubers will wait for spring. It is important to observe storage conditions: temperature not lower than +10°C, and obligatory darkness. The features of caring for begonia in winter at home for ever-flowering types are no different from other plants; it is important to ensure uniform, moderate watering.

How does begonia reproduce?

Reproduction from a tuber

The most common way to propagate begonias is by tubers. The tuber is divided into several parts so that each piece contains a bud. Next, plant it in moist soil, cut side down. Cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm place. When the begonia gives roots, the film is removed and the plant is transplanted into a separate pot.

Reproduction of begonia from leaves

Let us consider the stages of the process of begonia propagation at home by leaf in more detail.

Photo	Actions
	Prepare a container for watering - add phytosporin M. Universal powder against diseases and fungi, Volume - on the tip of a knife in a 200 ml container. The water should be warm, not cold.
	You can take any leaves, even from one of them you can get a lot of “babies”. We choose only juicy, well-formed and healthy begonia leaves.
	Young plants are not suitable. The following veins should be formed on the back side of the leaf. In young leaves they are much less pronounced.
	Cut the leaf stalk with scissors. Using a scalpel or razor, make small cuts across the veins closer to the base of the leaf.
	We moisten the soil in the prepared container with soil. You can add a little phytosporin to the water. Lightly press into the soil.
	Place the sheet with the back side down in the prepared container with soil.
	Cover the plant with film so that it is exposed to the light, but not in direct sunlight. Remove the weighting material after 4–5 days.
	Cuttings take root within 15-20 days. During this time, you must not remove the cover or touch the seedlings. When a young plant appears, it needs to be ventilated.
	After strengthening the rhizomes, the plant is transplanted into separate containers.

From seeds

This type of reproduction is considered the most ineffective. Seed germination rate is too low. And this process takes more time. Begonia seeds are sown in prepared soil in winter. The container is not covered with soil, but simply carefully sprayed with seeds and covered with film.

Propagation of begonia by seeds.

Once a day, open the container for ventilation. After the third leaf appears, the begonia is pruned. After a couple of months, a transplant and re-dive are carried out.

Propagation of begonia at home by cuttings

Transplantation by cuttings is used when a lot of transplanting material is needed. But it requires special caution.

Begonia after transplantation.

It is important to remember that not all types of plants can be propagated in this way. Typically, this method is used in bush species.

Usually a cutting with two buds is chosen. The cut area is usually sprinkled with charcoal. Place the stem in a pot with soil. To do this, you need to make a hole in a container with soil with a stick, the depth is up to the leaves. Then we cover the cuttings. Within a month the plant will produce its first leaves.

Dividing the bush

For bush begonias, a type of division such as propagation by rhizomes is also suitable. To do this, we free the plant from the soil, examine the roots, wash them with potassium permanganate, remove rotten and weak areas, and divide the rhizome so that each has a bud or sprout. As always, we treat the cuts with charcoal. Next is replanting into the ground.

Possible problems and care errors

Begonia, like any flower, gets sick mainly due to errors in care. How to grow healthy begonia - let's name some mistakes and ways to solve them.

Begonia doesn't bloom

Usually the reason is an incorrectly selected fertilizer. If it is nitrogenous, then the process of bud formation will naturally be greatly inhibited. This type of fertilizer is suitable for deciduous types.

Begonia Bauer.

Another option is the wrong place for the plant, or the wrong temperature. The solution is to move the flower to another location and change the type of feeding.

Flower buds fall

The plant is experiencing stress. This usually happens in three cases:

1. Excessive soil moisture.
2. Wrong place.
3. Excess fertilizer.

The solution is to find the cause and eliminate it.

Leaves turn yellow and curl

Sick begonia.

This is a symptom of soil depletion or drying out. Perhaps pests have appeared in the roots; to do this, they can be rinsed in a solution of potassium permanganate. Leaves turn black from excess moisture. The fragility of the plant indicates a lack of moisture or nutrition. Pale – lack of light. If the flower stretches upward, then it does not have enough sun, it spreads or crumbles to the sides - it is too dry.

Rot in the soil or at the base of the flower

Conclusion

Begonia is the best choice for a country house that is warm and cozy. The plant feels great in spacious rooms, open verandas; in summer, begonias are a wonderful decoration for garden paths and flower beds.

Indoor begonia leaf color options.

Ampelous begonia in a flowerpot.

Coral begonia.

Begonia Quadrille.

Begonia tuberous.

Decorative begonia.

Begonia "First Kiss".

Begonia Elatior.

Begonia Katarina.

Begonia Picoti.

Begonia Mikado.

Royal Griffin.

Always blooming.

Begonia "Tubular Rose".

If you want to take part in the discussion of the topic or offer your own version of how to care for begonia at home, leave your messages in the comments below.

A plant such as begonia belongs to the most famous and numerous genus of the begonia family. This genus unites approximately 1 thousand species of various plants, which in natural conditions can be found in the mountains, and they prefer to grow at an altitude of 3–4 thousand meters above sea level; they are also common in tropical rainforests and subtropics. These plants are also found in the mountains of India, the Malay Archipelago, the Himalayas, Sri Lanka and western Africa. There is an opinion that begonia comes from Africa, and then this plant came to America and Asia. Today, more than 1/3 of all species of this plant grow in Africa.

In the 17th century, the monk Charles Plumier found begonia and wrote a description of it. This happened during an expedition to the Antilles, the purpose of which was to collect plants. He discovered 6 different species of such a plant, which he named in honor of M. Begon, who was the governor of Fr. Haiti, with whom the monk was friends. Today, this plant is very popular and is cultivated both indoors and in the garden. Below we will talk about indoor begonia and how to plant it correctly, how to care for it, how it can be propagated and a lot of other interesting and useful information.

In addition to the approximately 1 thousand species existing in nature, there are also about 2 thousand hybrids of this plant. In this regard, there is simply no average description of this plant. In addition, such plants in various classifications are divided into decorative flowering and decorative deciduous, deciduous and evergreen, perennials and annuals, creeping and tall, rhizomatous and tuberous. Flower growers grow a huge variety of begonia species at home, and all of them need to be cared for in approximately the same way when cultivated at home.

Caring for begonia at home

Begonia grown at home needs consistency. In this regard, she needs to choose 1 specific place in the room where the flower will stand all the time. This place should be well lit, but the plant should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Decorative flowering species are particularly light-loving; therefore, for their placement it is recommended to choose a window sill with a western or eastern orientation. The plant feels best at an air temperature of 18 degrees at any time of the year. However, in summer it can withstand a slight increase in temperature.

Since this plant is tropical, it needs high air humidity. However, it is not recommended to moisten the foliage of the flower with a spray bottle, because after this procedure, brown spots will form on its surface. In order to increase air humidity (especially in winter, when the air is dried by heating devices), you need to turn the tray over and insert it into a larger tray, then place a container with a flower on top of it. You need to pour expanded clay around the inserted pallet and wet it, making sure that it is constantly moistened.

Begonia needs space; therefore, when choosing a place for it on a windowsill where other plants already stand, this fact must be taken into account. This flower also requires systematic ventilation, and it must be protected from drafts and excessively high or low air temperatures. If these conditions are not met, the flower will begin to wither and will also shed its leaf blades and flowers.

Before you start planting begonias, you need to choose the most suitable pot for it. For such a plant, it is recommended to choose a small pot, which should be made of ceramic. So, the diameter of the container should exceed the size of the flower’s root system by only 3–4 centimeters. If you plant it in a larger pot, the plant may suffer from waterlogging of the soil, and in this case it will bloom a little later. You can buy ready-made soil mixture for planting at a specialty store, but if you wish, you can prepare it with your own hands. To do this, combine leaf soil, sand, high peat, turf soil (can be replaced with humus), taken in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. The acidity of the soil should be approximately pH 5.5 to 6.5.

The container intended for planting begonias is filled 1/3 with drainage material. Then a two to three centimeter layer of charcoal must be laid on it, which is necessary to prevent the development of rot. After this, you need to place the flower itself in the container along with a lump of earth and all that remains is to fill all the existing voids with the earth mixture. When the plant is planted, it needs to be watered. It is recommended to plant begonia in the spring, from the second half of March, after the level of illumination and daylight hours become suitable for its growth. If the plant is tuberous, then it needs preliminary germination. To do this, the tubers are placed on top of the substrate in a box (not buried), and placed in a normally lit, cool (16 to 18 degrees) place with an air humidity level of 60 to 70 percent.

If begonia is grown indoors, then it simply needs to be watered correctly. This plant loves moisture, but does not need frequent watering. It is much more important that the air humidity is high enough, otherwise the tips of the leaf blades will begin to dry out. However, in the heat of summer, begonia needs to be watered more abundantly, but stagnation of liquid in the root system must be avoided. It is necessary to water with water at room temperature, which should be left for at least 24 hours. It is recommended to water only after the top layer of soil has dried to a depth of one and a half centimeters. In winter, plants should be watered less frequently and moderately, but if you have tuberous species, then at this time of year they should not be watered at all.

Top dressing

In order for begonia to grow and develop normally, it needs to be fed in a timely manner. You need to start fertilizing decorative flowering species after the budding period begins. Fertilizing is carried out once every 2 weeks and a liquid complex fertilizer for flowering plants is used for this. When the formation of ovaries begins, the plant will need to be fertilized with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (Ovary, Bud, Pollen). Fertilizers containing nitrogen should be fed only to decorative deciduous species, otherwise the flowering of decorative flowering species may not begin at all.

In order for the plant to develop normally, it must be systematically replanted. Transplantation is carried out at the beginning of the spring, before the growing season begins. The fact that the plant needs replanting is indicated by its roots, which begin to appear from the drainage holes. The plant should be removed from the container and the remaining substrate should be carefully removed from it. Then the roots should be dipped in a solution of potassium manganese, the color of which should be light pink. After this, the roots need to be carefully washed, removing any remaining soil, using well-settled water. Then the root system is inspected and those areas where there is rot are removed. After the root system dries, the plant must be planted in a larger container. How to do this correctly is described above. After transplantation, the begonia needs to be placed in its usual place. At first it will need frequent watering.

It is quite easy to transplant young specimens, and they respond normally to this procedure. However, adult specimens are somewhat more difficult to transplant because they have many overgrown, fragile leaf plates. In this regard, after the flower turns 3 years old, it is recommended to divide it into several parts.

Evergreen species have a weak dormant period. Tuberous species require a fairly long dormant period. Features of caring for begonia in winter, when there is a dormant period, directly depend on the species. At this time, bush and decorative species are placed in a place where the air temperature should be from 15 to 22 degrees and there should be high humidity (to do this, you can hang moistened rags on hot heating pipes or purchase an air humidifier).

From mid-autumn, the tuberous species of this plant begins to prepare for the dormant period. Their leaf blades dry out and die; therefore, such flowers need to be watered less. After the above-ground part of the container with plants has completely died, it is necessary to move it to a dark, cool (from 10 to 15 degrees) place for the whole winter. It happens that tuberous plants “do not want” to prepare for a period of dormancy; in this case, they must be forced to do so, otherwise you will not see lush flowering next year. So, watering must be significantly reduced, and the part of the plant located above the soil surface must be trimmed.

Methods for propagating indoor begonia

How to propagate

Such a plant can be propagated by seed or vegetative methods (stems, leaf cuttings, dividing a bush or tuber or rhizome). The simplest and fastest way is vegetative.

You can grow begonia from seeds quite easily and quickly. Sowing is carried out in the last days of February or the first of March. To do this, small seeds must be distributed over the surface of the substrate (not embedded). Then the container should be moved to a well-lit, warm place, after covering it with film or glass. Crops should be watered through a tray or using a sprayer. After the first seedlings appear, the cover should be removed for good. Picking is done after the plants have formed 3 or 4 true leaf blades. After 8 weeks, young plants can be transplanted into individual pots. Such begonias can begin to bloom in the first year, but in order for this to happen, they often need additional lighting.

To propagate deciduous species, rhizome division is used. This procedure is carried out in the spring. To do this, you need to pull the flower out of the soil and use a very sharp knife to divide the rhizome into several parts, with each division having roots and at least 1 shoot or buds. The cut areas should be sprinkled with crushed charcoal. After this, the divisions are planted in individual containers.

The tuber of an adult plant can also be divided into several parts. After this, you need to wait until the cut areas dry slightly and dust them with crushed charcoal. Then the divisions are planted in individual containers.

The simplest of all vegetative propagation methods is cuttings. From the bush you need to cut cuttings that have 3 or 4 leaf blades. To prevent rot from appearing on the cuts, they should be treated with charcoal. Then the cuttings must be planted in a mixture of leaf and peat soil and sand (1:1:1). The container is placed in a well-lit, warm place where there is no access to direct sunlight. The cutting requires moderate watering, so the soil should be moistened only after the soil has dried to a depth of 1 to 2 centimeters. You can root cuttings by immersing them in a glass of water. The roots will grow in about 4 weeks.

Since most species have fairly large and dense leaf plates, they can be propagated by leaf cuttings. In this case, both the entire leaf plate and part of it are suitable for propagation. If begonias are propagated by a whole leaf, then the main veins must be cut on its underside. Then the sheet plate is laid with the notched side on the surface of moistened sand, which must be calcined in advance. After this, it is fixed in this position. Watering is carried out through a tray. After about 8 weeks, roots will appear from the places that were cut, and after some time young plants will begin to grow. Strong, grown young begonias should be separated and planted in an earth mixture consisting of deciduous soil, sand and peat (1: 1: 1).

Aphids, red spider mites and nematodes can settle on indoor begonias. Mites and aphids suck the juice out of the plant, as a result of which it loses its decorative effect and its growth and development slows down. To combat aphids, Karbofos or Actellik is used, which requires 2 or 3 treatments with a break of 1–1.5 weeks. And to combat ticks they use a product such as Derris, Decis or other insectoacaricides. If infected with nematodes, the plant will have to be thrown out, since it is impossible to get rid of them. You can find out that begonia is infected with nematodes by discolored leaf blades and swellings on the root system.

Begonia is susceptible to diseases such as: gray rot, black root rot, botrytis, true or downy mildew. Fundazol, Quadris, Bordeaux mixture, Skor or another remedy with a similar effect will help cure the plant. This plant is also susceptible to infection with incurable viral or bacterial diseases, for example: bacterial wilt, cucumber mosaic, tomato spot. The infected copy must be destroyed.

Sometimes it happens that the leaf plates begin to dry out. The reason for this is that the air in the room is too warm and dry, as well as excessively poor watering. In this case, the begonia should be watered and placed in a cool place, with the pot placed on an inverted tray (more on this is discussed above).

Begonia turns yellow

It happens that rings or yellow spots form on the surface of the leaf blades - this is a sign that the plant is infected with tomato spot or cucumber mosaic. Infected specimens should be destroyed. If the leaves turn yellow and droop, the reason for this is that the plant is too cold and the soil contains too much water. Wait until the substrate in the pot dries thoroughly, and then move the flower to a warm place.

Main types and varieties of begonia with photos

There is currently no single classification of begonias. However, in the specialized literature one can find conventional options for dividing the species of a given plant, for example: into decorative flowering and decorative deciduous; also divided according to the type of parts of the plant located underground into tuberous, rhizomatous and with a superficial root system; There are those who divide these species into the following groups - bushy, decorative deciduous and tuberous. However, today experts are increasingly resorting to the following classification:

• bushy with erect bamboo-like stems;
• with flexible and thin drooping or creeping stems;
• with rhizomatous rather thick lying or lodging stems;
• species that are the ancestors of flowering hybrid begonias.

However, for home floriculture, the following classification is more convenient:

• decorative flowering indoor plants;
• decorative foliage indoor plants;
• decorative flowering potted plants.

Below will be presented the names of the species of such plants that are most popular in home floriculture, with their descriptions, as well as common varieties.

Leafy (deciduous) begonia

The birthplace of this flower is Eastern India. It is considered one of the most beautiful. Breeders have used this species to create many decorative deciduous varieties, as well as hybrid forms. The plant has a rhizome that is thickened, and its spectacular large leaf plates are bare or with slight pubescence, reaching 20 centimeters in width and 30 centimeters in length. Their heart-shaped shape is asymmetrical, their edges are unevenly jagged or wavy. The color of the leaves can be brown-bronze, raspberry-velvety or violet-red; sometimes specks of silver or violet-red color can be seen on their surface. There are hybrid forms, the leaf blades of which are almost black, and there are crimson spots on their surface. During flowering, pink flowers appear, which are of no particular decorative value.

1. Cartagena― oval leaf plates, which are wrapped in a shell, painted dark green. The central part of the leaf is dark brown, but with age it changes its color to plum. On the green part of the leaf plate there are specks of silver color with a light pink glow.
2. Silver Greenheart― leaf plates of silver color have an oblique heart-shaped shape, they also have a green-emerald border with small dots of silver color.
3. Chocolit Cream― the leaf plate is spiral-twisted and its central part is painted in a rich plum color. The rest of the leaf is silver in color with a pinkish tint.
4. Evening Glow― the leaf plates are of medium size, and their central part is painted in a rich crimson color. Brownish-green veins radiate from the center along part of the crimson-colored leaf. The leaves have a crimson edge.
5. Hallelujah- has large leaves that spirally twist at the petioles. They are painted light purple with a silver tint. The central part and edge of the leaves are cherry in color, while between them there is a fairly wide strip of rich green color, on the surface of which there is a huge number of small silvery spots.

In addition to the varieties mentioned above, flower growers grow others. For example, the following varieties and hybrid forms are very popular: Pearl de Paris, Regal Minuet, Silver Corkscrew, Black Fang, November Frost, Lilian, Red Tengo, Titica, Benitochiba, Deudrop, Charm, etc.

This plant is native to Mexico. The bush is low (no more than 25 centimeters), has creeping shoots and leaf plates of a pale green color, on the edge of which there are brown or black spots. There is pubescence on the underside of the leaves. Unremarkable pale pink flowers are part of loose, drooping inflorescences. This species is rarely seen in the wild. Thanks to specialists, a large number of very beautiful varieties have appeared.

The most popular are:

1. Tiger- creeping shoots can have a height of no more than 10 centimeters. There is a bronze pattern on the surface of the velvety leaves; a brown stripe runs along the veins. There are spots on the surface of the light red petioles.
2. Cleopatra- on the surface of these leaf plates there are light-colored hairs, and they are able to change their color when the lighting changes. The reverse side of the leaves is burgundy or red.

This begonia is a semi-shrub, and its homeland is the tropical forests of Brazil. At home, the plant can grow up to 100 centimeters in height. It has bamboo-like, erect and bare shoots. The oblong, egg-shaped leaf blades have a jagged edge. They can reach 20 centimeters in length and 7 centimeters in width. On the surface of the dark green front side of the leaves there are small spots of silver color, while the underside is pale green. Peduncles have a coral color. They bear flowers, which are part of the inflorescences in the form of a brush. Popular varieties:

1. Alfalfa― large green leaf plates have a jagged edge, on their front side there are spots of silver color, and the back side is red in color.
2. President Carnot- shield-shaped leaf plates at the base are dissected, and their edge is slightly toothed. The leaves reach 30 centimeters in length and 15 centimeters in width. They are colored green and have whitish spots on the surface.

This begonia is one of the oldest domestic flowers. Her homeland is Mexico. The thickness of the creeping shoot is about 4 centimeters. Large palmately dissected leaf plates are placed on greenish-yellow petioles. The leaves do not exceed 35 centimeters in length and have clearly visible veining. The pinkish-green flowers are part of loose, brush-shaped inflorescences. Flowering begins in February.

In addition to these species, the following are popular among gardeners: striped, metallic, Bovera, yellow, shiny, Mason, hogweed, white-spotted, red-leaved, Limminga, imperial, etc.

Decorative flowering begonia

The height of the compact bush-like bush does not exceed 60 centimeters. A young plant has erect stems, but over time they take on an ampelous or semi-ampeloid shape. The rounded leaf plates have slight pubescence along the edge, and they reach a length of 6 centimeters. They can be colored dark or pale green, and can also have a reddish tint. Small (diameter about 25 mm) flowers, double or single, can be painted pink, white or red. They are part of inflorescences, which are short-lived. Opened flowers do not delight with their beauty for long and soon fade, but they are very quickly replaced by new ones. With proper care, good lighting and regular feeding, this begonia can bloom in winter. Popular varieties:

1. Gustav in Knaak- the height of a spreading bush can reach about 30 centimeters. Green leaf blades have a red border. The diameter of carmine flowers is about 3 centimeters, and they are part of the inflorescences.
2. Carmen- on a medium-sized bush there are brown leaf plates with anthocyanin. There are also many pink flowers.
3. Ambergris- the height of the bush does not exceed 15 centimeters, the leaf plates are brown, and the diameter of the pink flowers is no more than 3 centimeters.
4. Bicola- the height of the bush reaches 14 centimeters. The leaves are green and the white flowers have a light pink border.
5. Orania- a small bush, the height of which is about 16 centimeters. Green leaf blades have a red border. The flowers are reddish-orange.

And flower growers also prefer to grow such varieties of this species as: Bella, Rozanova, Linda, Othello, Teicher, Leila, Lucifer, Scarletta, Albert Martin, Ball Red, Kate Teicher, etc.

This hybrid form is considered the most spectacular and has the most abundant flowering. Among domestic begonias, this plant is a favorite. The height of the bush does not exceed 40 centimeters. The shoots are thick, fleshy, the shape of the alternately arranged leaf plates is heart-shaped. The leaflets are about 8 centimeters long, and their edges are jagged. The front side of the leaves is shiny, rich green, and the back side is matte and light green. The flowers are part of the inflorescences and have long peduncles. Popular varieties:

1. Schwabenland- on a tall, profusely flowering bush there are many small, rich red flowers.
2. Renaissance- on a tall bush there are double flowers, the red petals of which are corrugated.
3. Louise― the flowers are painted in a pale cream color, with a light pink tint.
4. Piccora- on a low bush there are deep pink flowers, which are double.
5. Rose- double flowers have a dark pink color.

Also popular among flower growers are varieties such as: Kyoto, Goldfinger, Azotus, Berlin, Sharlach, Cleo, Annebel, Bellona, ​​etc.

Often this species is grown as a garden flower or used to decorate balconies and terraces. Such a flower has drooping stems that cascade down, and there are a large number of flowers on them. To grow such plants, baskets, flowerpots or pots are used. The flowers can be densely double, double, semi-double, or single, and they are painted in red, yellow, white, pink, orange, and also in various combinations of these color shades. Flowers can be large, medium and small. Popular varieties:

1. Gail- the spreading bush has hanging long (about 30 centimeters) stems, in the upper part of which there are pointed green leaf plates with a jagged edge. Light pink semi-double flowers can reach 3 centimeters in diameter.
2. Christie- a spreading bush consists of rather fragile hanging stems that do not exceed 40 centimeters in length. The diameter of the double flowers is 4 centimeters, and they are painted white.
3. Roxana- a small bush consists of hanging stems, the length of which does not exceed 40 centimeters. Four-centimeter diameter double flowers are painted orange.
4. Kati- a spreading bush consists of relatively fragile stems, the length of which is about 30 centimeters. The diameter of the yellow semi-double flowers is 3.5 centimeters.

The most popular hybrid varieties of decorative flowering begonias

1. Harlequin- the height of the spreading bush is up to 25 centimeters, the leaf blades are green, and the large (diameter 12 centimeters) double flowers are yellow and have red edges.
2. Gold Dress- the height of the semi-spreading bush is about 25 centimeters. The leaf blades are pale green. The densely double pink flowers are quite large (20 centimeters in diameter) and yellow in color.
3. Duck Red- the spreading bush reaches no more than 16 centimeters in height. The leaves are rich green, and the peony-shaped double flowers are dark red. The diameter of the flowers is about 10 centimeters, while the petals are quite wide.
4. Camellia Flora- a small bush has a height of about 25 centimeters. The leaf blades are green. Large (diameter about 12 centimeters) camelid flowers are pink, and their petals, which have whitish edges, are imbricated.
5. Crispa Marghinata- the height of the bush is about 15 centimeters. The folded leaf plates are colored green and have thin purple ropes. Large (diameter about 12 centimeters) wide-oval flowers are painted white and have a rich red border. The side petals are wavy and strongly corrugated.
6. Amy Jean Bard- bush height no more than 12 centimeters. Green leaf blades are small in size. The inflorescence consists of 5 small (diameter about 3 centimeters) double flowers with an orange color.
7. Diana Vinyard- the height of a small bush is about 20 centimeters. The leaves are pale green. Large (diameter about 20 centimeters) densely double flowers are white in color, as well as wavy folded petals.
8. Marmorata- the height of a semi-spreading bush is about 20 centimeters. The large double flowers (about 12 centimeters in diameter) are painted in a scarlet color, and there are whitish streaks on their surface.
9. Feuerflamme- the height of the bush does not exceed 20 centimeters. The leaf blades are green and the veins are crimson. Small (diameter about 3 centimeters) semi-double flowers have a pinkish-orange color.