Electrical diagram of radio engineering speakers from 30. Restoring radio engineering speakers S30
Later, the Radiotehnika S-30B Сг3.843.055ТУ-86 and Radiotehnika S-30A ИШch3.843.060ТУ-87 (OGK plant) were developed. They use dynamic loudspeaker heads 25GDN-1-8-80 (25GDN-1-4-80 in S-30A) and 6GDV-1-16 (same speakers, designation according to OST4.383.001-85).
For work AC must be connected to an amplifier that has a maximum output power of 20...50 W at the output of each channel. The speakers S-30 and S-30B have an overload indication of the loudspeaker heads, which is triggered when a signal is supplied to them with a level exceeding the rated power of the speaker. If the OVERLOAD indicator starts to glow for a long time during operation of the speaker, you should reduce the level of the signal supplied to it.
Main technical characteristics:
Rated electrical power - 10 W.
The rated electrical power is at least 30 W.
Nominal electrical resistance S-30 - 4 Ohms, S-30A - 4 Ohms, S-30B - 8 Ohms.
The range of reproduced frequencies is no longer 50...18000 Hz.
Nominal average sound pressure in the range 100...4000 Hz for S-30 - 1.2 Pa.
Characteristic sensitivity in the range of 100...8000 Hz, at a power of 1 W, for S-30B no less than 84 dB.
Overall dimensions of the speakers: 364 - 214 - 195 mm, weight no more than 6 kg.
Electrical circuit diagram of acoustic systems Radiotehnika S-30 (10AC-221 - 10AC - 222)
I am a big fan of Soviet acoustics, amplifiers and generally everything related to sound. The background to this article is this: one day I saw a Raiotehnika S-30 speaker in a friend’s garage. True - one. The second one was somewhere in his car at work. I took the first column right away. The second one was brought to me a couple of weeks later. The first column was in more or less normal condition. The one that rode in the car was much worse: a scratched and battered body, bent protective nets, a scratched front panel. Immediately after I had the speakers at home, I decided to modify them.
Main technical characteristics:
Rated electrical power of at least 30 W
Rated electrical power 10 W
Nominal electrical resistance 4 ohms
Nominal average sound pressure in the frequency range from 100 to 4000 Hz 1.2 Pa
The range of reproduced frequencies is no longer 50-18000 Hz
Overall dimensions of speakers 364x214x195 mm
The weight of the speaker is no more than 6 kg.
Later, the following stages of working with acoustics were determined:
- Final assembly of the speakers.
Complete disassembly of the speakers.
Improved appearance.
Sound improvement.
The first thing I did was completely disassemble the speakers: I removed the front panel with the grilles, removed the speakers, bass reflex, filter, and pulled out the sound absorber. Only empty buildings remained.
Next, remove all the sealant, which has probably already dried from time to time. After this, we glue the housing in the middle along the seams with PVA wood glue or silicone sealant. As a last resort, you can use regular stationery PVA glue.
This is the longest procedure, since it takes about a day to dry one seam. After we glue all the seams inside, carefully sand the outside of the housings for further putty.
After sanding, we wipe the speaker housings from dust and putty all the defects. I used acrylic wood putty.
It is better to putty the columns several times to improve their appearance. But this depends on the condition of the buildings themselves. After puttying, do not forget to sand the bodies again with fine-grained sandpaper.
We cover the inside of the case with padding polyester or felt. If there is neither one nor the other, we use ordinary foam rubber. The sound absorber improves the sound quality of the acoustics.
After this, we cover the speaker housings with self-adhesive film. We select the color according to our taste. I chose the film as dark as possible, but when I brought it home, I saw that it was much lighter than I wanted. But it's not scary. I took a film 45 cm wide. By cutting it into two parts lengthwise, you can paste over two buildings at once. The width of the film is enough for wrapping on the front and back of the column.
We carefully sand the protective grilles, otherwise the paint will not adhere well and will peel off over time. We do not sand the front panels so as not to spoil their texture. I covered the nameplates with the frequency response with masking tape so as not to paint them over. It is better to paint in 2-3 layers.
Now let's move on to speakers and filters. We replace the wires in the filters with acoustic ones. I took a speaker cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm 2 . But for such speakers, a cable with a cross-section of 1 mm is quite enough. 2 . If there is no speaker cable, you can use a regular copper cable with PVC insulation. We throw out the terminals on the filter board for connecting the speakers! We solder all the wires to the board! Some craftsmen, when working with filters, remove the overload indicator, as it degrades the sound quality. But this is a purely subjective opinion. Personally, I didn’t notice a difference, I just turned the sensitivity to maximum and installed green 5 mm LEDs. It turned out a la “color music”. LEDs blink in time with low frequencies. The overload indicator electrolytes passed capacity tests, so I did not replace them. I replaced the standard terminals with acoustic ones.
We paint the low-frequency speakers with office ink.
My phase converters (FI) were completely dry and crumbled. So I bought a sewer pipe with a diameter of 32 mm. It fits FI size perfectly. We cut two pieces of pipe and glue them to the front panel with super glue. To cover the large hole in the speaker housing, I used a piece of old FI.
After all the operations have been completed, we begin assembling the speakers. Apply sealant in the areas around the speakers. I used the first one that came to hand - black silicone sealant.
We put the speakers in place and solder the wires to them.
If desired, we put grilles on the speakers. You don’t have to install them, but I have curious individuals who like to rub their hands on the vibrating speaker :)
We put the front panels in place and fasten them with new screws. To prevent them from standing out too much, I painted the screw heads with the same paint as the front panels.
As a result, this is what I got.
They play from the Radiotehnika U-7111 amplifier along with the Radiotehnika S-50B acoustics. I connected the speakers with the same speaker cable as in the filters. I like the fact that the amplifier allows you to connect two pairs of speakers.
OK it's all over Now. I look forward to your criticism, advice, and suggestions. Sincerely, resident of the "Soldering Iron" forum -
I somehow got Soviet S-30 speakers. Their condition was deplorable: their speakers did not work (the wiring had broken due to age). Later I made them, temporarily hooking them up with small wires.
They worked for me for 2-3 weeks as part of the house. cinema, and one fine day I was inspired to remake them (“modding”).
Main technical characteristics of Radio Engineering S30:
What we need: Soldering iron, straight hands, rosin, solder, glue, black “screws”, wires, a lot of free time, a car (bicycle) tube, a plastic pipe, that’s all.
First, let's take everything completely apart:
First I changed the wires from the filter to the speakers:
BEFORE (agree, these wires are worse):
After (sounding better with them):
Have you laid the wires? Now you need to glue the speaker body with any glue so that there are no gaps, I used “silicone”.
I placed the camera on the viscous mass (cut out the appropriate dimensions) and pressed it down firmly (this way the camera will “stick” to the speaker body)
Now it's time for the filters, I changed the wires on them.
under development:
A few words about the filter:
If we want: we turn off the overload indication unit (if the amplifier is not more powerful than 25-30 W - otherwise then we listen with caution) - according to the diagram, we cut the track from the input (red wire +) to VD KA522B (see diagram) and unsolder the capacitor C2 10 μF and the transistor VT2 KT315b .
We disconnect the plug connector and solder the wires going to the speakers, throw away the old ones! In their place we put audio wires with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm 2, directly to the board, on the back side of the connector. From the woofer speaker “+” to connector No. 2 and “-” to connector No. 3. “Tweeter” (HF), respectively, “+” to No. 5 and “-” to No. 2 (this is necessary - it is in antiphase).
Here is the filter diagram.
If you disable some elements (that you do not need)
You can experiment carefully: add anti-magnets of the required size to the 10GD34 and reduce the coefficient of the resistive divider on the HF using a substring resistor, having previously marked the original position with a subtracting resistor so that you can return to the original state of the filters. All this will increase the mid-high frequency output and the overall dynamic range. The anti-magnets in one pair are glued slightly different - I selected them to equalize the output of both speakers in the midrange.
The number of lovers of good sound who simply throw away a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can amount to a significant amount. I think that the following will help anyone who has hands that grow from the right place to fix the speaker;)
Available - a miracle of design thought, which was once a column S-30 (10AC-222), now performing the functions of one of the autosubs. A week after the mutation, the patient began to show signs of the disease - he made extraneous sounds when practicing bass lines, and wheezed slightly. A decision was made to perform an autopsy.
After the autopsy, the diseased organ was removed from the patient’s body - a woofer 25GDN-1-4 manufactured in 1986. The organ clearly needed surgery - when you gently pressed the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click).
When dialing various tones (produced by the nchtoner program), a clearly audible scratching-crackling sound was heard with a large diffuser stroke and when ultra-low (5-15 Hz) frequencies were applied. It was decided to trephine this organ.
First, the patient's flexible lead wires were unsoldered (from the side of the contact pads).
Then, with a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as “Moment”), using a syringe with a needle, the place where the dust cap and diffuser were glued together (around the perimeter) was moistened...
Place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (along the perimeter)...
And the place where the diffuser itself is glued to the diffuser holder basket (again along the perimeter).
The speaker was left in this state for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three steps (as the solvent was absorbed/evaporated).
Attention! When working with solvent, you should observe safety precautions - avoid contact with skin (work with rubber gloves!) and mucous membranes! Don't eat or smoke! Work in a well-ventilated area!
When wetting, use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the place where the coil and centering washer are glued!
Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can carefully pry up the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to apply significant force, repeat the operation by wetting its edges with solvent and waiting!
After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).
By this time the centering washer has time to come off. Carefully, without any effort, separate it from the diffuser holder basket. if necessary, re-wet the gluing area with solvent.
We wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait... We wet it again and wait again... After 10 minutes you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should effortlessly separate from the diffuser holder (along with the coil and centering washer). But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is to be careful! Do not damage the rubber suspension!!!)
We clean the gluing areas from old glue and dry the disassembled speaker.
We examine the disassembled patient to determine if there is a malfunction. Let's look at the reel. If there are no abrasions or loose threads on it, we leave it alone. When a thread comes off, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.
We carefully inspect the place where the supply wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction found in old speakers with a large diffuser stroke.
The supply wire at the attachment point is frayed/broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread running through the center!
Carefully bend the copper “tendrils”...
And unsolder the supply wire. We repeat the operation for the second transaction (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)
We cut off the supply wires at the break point...
And we tin the resulting ends (of course, we first use rosin). Care is required here! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wiring like a sponge!
Carefully solder the wiring into place, bend the copper “tendrils” and glue it with glue (Moment, BF-2) where the wiring connects to the diffuser. Let us remember - you cannot solder wires to the fastening “antennae”! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years? ;)
Assembling the speaker. We place the diffuser with all the “equipment” in the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places where they are attached. Then we check the correct polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” speaker, the diffuser will “jump” out of the basket. We place the diffuser so that its “+” supply wire is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.
We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin, to preserve the length.
We center the diffuser in its basket using photographic film (or thick paper), which we place in the gap between the core and the coil. The main rule is to place the centering evenly around the perimeter to maintain the same gap.
The amount (or thickness) of centering should be such that when the diffuser is slightly protruded outward, it will freely rest on it and not fall inward.
For the 25GDN-1-4 speaker, 4 pieces of photographic film, placed in pairs in front of each other, are enough for this. The length of the photographic film should be such that it does not interfere if you place the speaker on the diffuser. For what - read below.
Glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend “Moment”, the main selection criterion, so that the glue can later be dissolved with a solvent).
I usually stick the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the diffuser holder basket, then I apply a thin layer of glue to it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally pressing the washer to the basket around the perimeter using my fingers . Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, avoiding distortion).
We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under a load (this is why our photographic film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!)...
Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the movement of the diffuser with our fingers. It should walk easily, without making overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and the core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and feed it low-frequency tones at a low volume. There should be no extraneous sounds.
If the gluing is incorrect (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be unstuck (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With high-quality assembly, 99% of the time we will get a fully working speaker.
We coat the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Care and precision are required here - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it greatly spoils the appearance of the speaker.
When gluing, do not press on the center of the cap!!! This may cause it to bend and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and glue it back.
We wait until all the parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of a new factory similar speaker.
That's it, now you see that fixing the speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So, in an hour, you can leisurely repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker, domestic or imported (for gluing up imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, be careful - they are poisonous!!!) that has a similar defect.
Yes, after the operation, the former patient got his second wind and the cheerful yellow subs continue to do their hard bass work:
Sergey Zhiltsov, 2003.
Manufacturer: PO "Radio Engineering", 1983
Purpose: for high-quality reproduction of music or speech programs, as part of a household amplifying radio complex.
Characteristic
Frequency range: 50 (-8 dB) - 18000 Hz
Sensitivity: 8 4 dB
Characteristic sensitivity: 0.317 Pa/√W
Uneven frequency response of sound pressure in the frequency range 100 - 8000 Hz relative to the average sound pressure level: ± 6 dB
Directivity at angles to the acoustic axis:
in the vertical plane ± 7°: ± 6 dB
in the horizontal plane ±25°: ± 6 dB
Harmonic distortion of speakers, determined by the total characteristic harmonic distortion in the frequency range:
250 - 1000 Hz: 2%
1000 - 2000 Hz: 2%
2000 - 63 00 Hz : 1%
Resistance: 4 ohms
Minimum impedance values: 3.2 ohm
Nameplate power: 3 0 W
Short-term power: 300 W
Speakers used:
LF/MF:
HF:
Filter cutoff frequency: 5000 ±500 Hz
Weight: 6 kg
Dimensions (HxWxD): 364x214x195 mm
Description
The body is made in the form of a rectangular non-demountable box made of particle board, veneered with valuable wood veneer. The front panel is finished with film or veneer and covered with black plastic decorative panels. At the joints of the housing walls on the inside there are elements installed that increase the strength and rigidity of the housing.
The speakers are located on the front panel symmetrically relative to the vertical axis of symmetry of the speakers. At the bottom of the front panel there is a nameplate with an image of the frequency response curve on it. There is also an overload indicator on it.
At the bottom of the front panel there is a bass reflex hole with a diameter of 30 mm, which is tuned to a frequency of 50 Hz. On the back wall there are connection terminals, and in its upper part there is a bracket for fastening to the wall.
The design of the filters and the overload indication unit uses resistors such as BC, MLT, SP3-38b, SP5-28b and capacitors such as MBGO-2, K50-6, K 73-11 and inductors on plastic cast frames.