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Ruby weigela flowers how to cover for the winter. Weigela - fall care and preparation for winter: pruning and shelter

Ruby weigela flowers how to cover for the winter. Weigela - fall care and preparation for winter: pruning and shelter

For proper planting, care and placement of weigela in the garden remember that weigela:

thrives well in well-lit areas;
does not tolerate excess moisture;
requires medium acidity of the soil;
needs feeding.

Weigela care and cultivation

The plant is quite unpretentious, tolerates wintering well. Regularly carry out agrotechnical measures necessary for the normal growth and flowering of the shrub.

How to grow weigela? Basic Rules:

Don't over-moisten the soil. When planting, arrange a drainage layer of crushed stone in the pit. For weigela, a lack of moisture is less harmful than its excess. Water young plants more frequently during dry months.
Loosen the soil to a depth of about 5 cm. This way you prevent the formation of a dense crust, saturate the soil with oxygen and get rid of weeds.
Mulch regularly around bushes. A layer of sawdust or bark will retain moisture in the soil, decorate the area around the bush and prevent the growth of weeds.
Do not forget about feeding weigela. In the spring, be sure to fertilize the ground. During the formation of flower buds, feed the plant with the following composition: potassium sulfate and double superphosphate - 30 g each. Apply potash fertilizers in the fall.
Do your trimming promptly. This operation is needed not only to form a beautiful crown. During sanitary pruning, weak, diseased shoots are removed.

Landing

It is advisable to plant young bushes in late March - early April. By this time, the soil is warm enough.

Landing Rules:

Choose a well-lit, sheltered place from the winds.
The soil must be fertile. Look for a soil with an acidity between pH 6 and 6.5. Ingredients: sod land, sand and humus in a ratio of 2:2:1.
Prepare a planting hole for the plant, 50–60 cm deep. The diameter is about the same. These dimensions allow you to freely place the weigela roots in the pit.
Put a layer of gravel or rubble on the bottom. So you will ensure sufficient moisture removal. Drainage layer - up to 15 cm.
The weigela crown of different varieties grows up to 3 m. Provide the plants with free space for development. The distance between the bushes is about three meters.
When subsiding the soil, make sure that the root neck remains at ground level.
After planting, water the plant well, mulch with bark or sawdust.

Video about weigel, planting and care.

Even the most unpretentious plants need attention. Weigela is no exception. Planting and care in compliance with the basic rules will allow you to grow a strong, healthy bush - a bright decoration of your site.

Weigela spring care

Over the winter, the bushes have weakened somewhat. They require meticulous care. Take enough time to care for the plant, and then the ornamental shrub will recover well after a period of winter cold.

What needs to be done:

If there are a lot of snowdrifts on the site, evenly distribute the snow over the territory. The melting process will be faster.
After the snow melts, carefully untie the bushes covered for the winter. Remove the spanboard or craft paper, straighten the branches.
Examine the weigela bushes. Find out which branches to cut. Shoots damaged by frost will have to be removed.
Remove debris accumulated over the winter and the remains of old leaves from under the bush, loosen the soil well. Water the frosted plant more abundantly.
At the beginning of spring, carry out the first top dressing: add a mixture of potassium sulfate (10 g), superphosphate (10 g) and urea (20 g).
After fertilizing, add a new layer of mulch.

pruning

This The operation has multiple goals.:

form an attractive crown of the correct shape;
remove damaged or dead shoots;
accelerate the growth of young shoots.

The main pruning for decorative purposes is carried out in the summer. In the spring, this operation is performed as a preventive measure.

spring

During wintering, some shoots and buds of the weigela may freeze, especially if the winter was snowless and windy. Be sure to carry out sanitary pruning.

Before the onset of heat, it is difficult to understand which branches and buds need to be removed. Only during the swelling of the kidneys will you see the front of the work.

How to cut weigela? Step by step:

carefully inspect the bushes;
find frozen and weak shoots;
remove dead and frail branches;
Partially frozen shoots cut to the last live kidney.

Remember: your task in the spring is to carry out not decorative, but sanitary pruning. The remaining shoots should grow well before summer.

Advice: when the whole shoot freezes, leave a small part (5–6 cm) closer to the ground. Perhaps the kidney, located near the warping of the bush, will still wake up. Then you will see another new strong escape.

In summer

Shrub rejuvenation is carried out in the spring, and after flowering in the middle of summer, a crown is formed. Regular pruning increases the number of buds and accelerates the growth of young shoots. Various varieties of weigela respond well to pruning.

Adviсe:

Shorten the faded shoots to vertical shoots located at the bottom of the weigela bush.
Maintain a ratio between the number of adults and young shoots. Be sure to remove one or two old shoots.
Young branches that stand out from the crown and spoil the appearance of the bush, also cut to the desired level.
For purple-leaved and golden forms of weigela, remove old trunks by three quarters of the length. Be sure to cut off 3/4 of the young shoots.
Variegated varieties often sprout "wild" shoots. Remove them to the ground. After weigela flowering, young shoots must be thinned out. So the bush is gaining strength.

Planting and caring for weigela have some features. When all agrotechnical measures are completed on time, your efforts will not be in vain. A highly decorative shrub with a well-formed crown and beautiful buds will delight you.

We are considering how to prepare weigela for winter in the fall, depending on the type and region of cultivation. We tell you whether it is necessary to cover it, shelter options and the first steps in the spring: pruning, watering, top dressing. We also share reviews of gardeners about wintering shrubs.

Preparing for winter

Healthy and strong plants overwinter better. Therefore, preparing weigela for winter begins with proper planting and care in spring, summer and autumn. It must be moderately watered, cut and fed in a timely manner.

The last top dressing of the shrub should be carried out no later than mid-late July. In order for the young shoots to stop growing and have time to become woody. Moreover, you can not feed in the fall.

The success of wintering weigela also largely depends on the landing site. It should be sunny and protected from the wind. A shrub planted in a good location is much smaller and less likely to be damaged in winter. Moreover, the distance between the bushes can be only 30-40 meters.

Should we prune weigela in autumn?

The plant often re-blooms in late summer and blooms in autumn until the first hard frost. Formative pruning should be carried out after the end of the first flowering in summer (July), and sanitary pruning in spring (April).

Weigela does not need to be cut for the winter, including flower stalks, as this can adversely affect flowering next year. After all, flower buds are formed on last year's shoots.

Mandatory training

Before the first frosts (end of August - end of September), sprinkle the bush with earth or pour an 8-12 cm layer of mulch (peat, sawdust, humus, compost, shavings, fallen leaves) into the near-stem circle.
Before the first snowfalls, night frosts down to -5-7 ºC or after the leaves fall, wrap the weigela branches with twine, rope and pull them slightly to the center.
The harness protects it from falling apart due to snow at any age. Depending on the climate, the bush is wrapped from mid-September to the end of October.

Does it need to be covered?

According to USDA frost resistance zones, weigela can be grown in zone 4 (up to -34.4 ºС), most species and varieties in zone 5 (up to -28.9 ºС), and weigela garden, Japanese and Korean (Weigela hortensis) only in zone 6 (up to -23.3 ºС).

Conventionally, the 4th and 5th zones include the territory from St. Petersburg to the middle of the Rostov region, including Moscow and the Moscow region, the middle lane, the Urals, the Volga region. Those. the entire European part of the Russian Federation except for the Krasnodar Territory.

Therefore, heat-loving species (weigela garden, Japanese and Korean, as well as various varieties included in the Weigela hybrid group) are best grown only in the south of Russia. More winter-hardy species are: blooming weigela, Middendorf and early, which can be planted in zones 4 and 5.

In addition to the ability to withstand the lowest possible temperatures, the success of wintering a shrub also depends on the severity of the change in weather, thaws in winter and spring, and protection from the wind (landing site). For these reasons, the winter hardiness of weigela, even of the same species growing in the same zone, will differ and they can overwinter with different consequences.

It is especially important to insulate young bushes (up to 3-4 years old) and in the first two years after planting in open ground or transplanting to a new place. With age, the frost resistance of the plant increases, and it winters more successfully. Therefore, if you wish, over time you can check how successfully the weigela will winter without shelter.

Weigela shelter

When to cover for the winter?

After preliminary preparation of the shrub for winter (mulching, tying), it is necessary to make a shelter for it. It is necessary to cover the weigela for the winter with the onset of stable cold nights and when its leaves have already fallen. However, it is desirable before the temperature at night starts to drop below -7-10 ºC.

Some types of weigela (garden, Maksimovich) often do not have time to shed their leaves and take cover for the winter with them.

Depending on the growing region, the plant is covered from mid-September to mid-November. In the Moscow region and the middle lane they usually cover in the middle - the end of October, in the Urals in the end of September - the beginning of October. Dates also depend on the weather conditions this particular autumn.

How to hide?

An excellent option for wintering weigela is the construction of an air-dry shelter. It is not difficult to make it, it is used for many ornamental shrubs (rhododendron, buddleia, etc.).

Whatever method you choose, for a successful wintering of the plant, the main thing is to ensure that there is access to air so that the hidden branches remain dry. The moisture that has fallen under the shelter contributes to the emergence and development of the fungus, debate and decay of the bush.

Therefore, it is necessary to cover the weigela for the winter when the soil is dry. It is strictly forbidden for covering materials to touch damp ground.

Air dry shelter

Place two arcs around the bush just above it itself or drive 3-4 pegs into the ground.
Cover the resulting frame with non-woven material (agrofiber, agrospan, lutrasil, spunbond) and securely fasten the edges with rope and tape.

Air-dry shelter for the winter

Previously, polyethylene film was used instead of non-woven material. In this case, it is important to leave a ventilation hole at the top, and after the onset of stable frosts (-8-10 degrees), pour dry leaves or hay on top of the film.
A young bush can be covered from above with a wooden or plastic box with slots. For some specimens, you can make a frame from 2-3 large boxes connected to each other and already wrap them with covering material, and tape it on top.

The Feast of Flowers magazine advises using light-colored boxes and covering material, ideally white, so that in winter they better reflect the bright sunlight during the day and do not overheat. This reduces the difference between the temperature inside the shelter during the day (+10-15 ºС) and at night (frost -15-30 ºС).

Shelter after bending branches

Press the connected branches to the ground on a special “pillow” (thick layer of humus, leaves, spruce branches, sawdust, brushwood). Branches can be additionally wrapped with burlap.
Fix the branches on the “pillow” with arcs and pour a second “pillow” on top (better spruce branches or leaves). Now put roofing felt, roofing felt or film on top.

Feedback from our readers about wintering

Anna, middle lane:“I make a hut over a young bush (before the onset of frost I drive three sticks around the bush and tie it at the top). Next, I wrap it with a heater inside and pour dry leaves into the middle. On top of the insulation I wrap the hut with a film, and fix it with wire, and at the bottom with stones. After the snow falls, I throw it as much as possible to the weigel.

Marina, Chelyabinsk (Ural):“We often have winters with little snow, rather warm, but with separate sharp drops in temperature to -30 ºС for 7-8 days. I put two arcs just above the height of the bush and cover with a dense spunbond (60 g / m²), I also do the same with forsythia and roses. I also wrap young bushes with agrotextile, but I bend down and pin them with hooks, and cover with a film on top and press it down with bricks along the edges.

Elena, Chekhovsky district, Moscow region:“Weigela grew in my open place and wintered without shelter, only mulched and that’s it, it didn’t freeze out, but it didn’t bloom for about 3-4 years either. Then I planted it in front of the house on the south side and also did not cover it, but the bush began to bloom profusely.

Care in winter and spring

In winter, after a snowfall, it is advisable to throw more snow into the near-stem circle of the shrub and on the sides of the shelter, but shake it off from the top. If too much snow has fallen, then check the integrity of the frame so that it can withstand the load and the weigela does not break or spread.

Taking cover

It is necessary to remove the shelter in the spring after the end of severe frosts and snowfalls. From folk signs, one can single out the following: if Easter is early, then you can open it earlier, and if it is late, then later.

For example, in the Moscow region it is better to open the weigela not earlier than April 3, and young bushes not earlier than April 10-11. Although some gardeners take shelter at the end of March and are satisfied with the condition and development of the bush.

Sanitary pruning

Unfortunately, no matter how hard we try in the fall, weigela does not always hibernate without tangible damage. Even in the same Moscow region, except for the city of Moscow and certain places with a very successful microclimate, the bush often freezes heavily.

In April, inspect the bush and if there are frostbitten shoots, then cut them to the first living bud. Some shoots have to be cut off by 10-15 cm, and some branches have only tops. It is also necessary to remove diseased and old branches.

What to do if the weigela is very frozen in winter?

If the bush has been seriously damaged during wintering, then it should be watered more often in spring and summer, especially in hot and dry weather. Irrigation rate - 8-10 liters of water per bush. The frequency of watering depends on the amount of precipitation and temperature, the hotter, the more often.

Abundant watering will help the plant recover faster and prepare for winter. For many flower growers, weigela comes to life by July or August, and sometimes already next spring.

top dressing

During the melting of snow or immediately after removing the shelter, we recommend feeding the weigela with a complex mineral fertilizer with a higher proportion of nitrogen than potassium and phosphorus. You can also use fertilizers separately: nitrogen (urea), potassium, phosphorus (superphosphate) - 20, 10, 10 grams per 1 m².

Spring top dressing contributes to a better recovery of the shrub after winter.

Mulching

The best time to mulch is when the ground is warm enough after the snow has melted, but still quite wet. Approximately: mid-April - early May, depending on the region and weather conditions.

Pour a 4-6 cm layer of sawdust, shavings, pieces of pine bark, peat or small pebbles into the near-stem circle.

We wish you a wonderful mood and bright thoughts!

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

Weigela is a shrub from the honeysuckle family, originating from Southeast Asia.

It is named after the German botanist von Weigel and has been used in landscape design since the end of the century before last.

Weigela is a shrub from the honeysuckle family, originating from Southeast Asia.

Frost-resistant varieties of weigela

The height of the weigela bush in the middle lane reaches one and a half meters. Basically it depends on the type of plant. In total, there are one and a half dozen varieties of weigela, which are further subdivided into varieties. Not all types of shrubs have taken root well in the middle lane. The following varieties are considered the most frost-resistant.

Varieties of weigela (video)

Weigel Middendorf

Tall shrub blooms in May-June with large cream flowers with orange specks. At the beginning of autumn, re-flowering occurs, although not as lush as spring. In nature, it grows in cedar and mixed forests in Primorye, Sakhalin, China and Japan, alone or forming dense thickets. Likes sunny places near water bodies. The leaves are oblong, ovoid. Small winged seeds are placed in an elongated box.

Weigel Maksimovich

This is a shrub of one and a half meters in height with eight-centimeter oblong, fleecy leaves with short petioles. The flowers are bell-shaped, pale yellow, up to four centimeters in size, arranged in pairs on short branches. Flowering is observed in late spring-early summer. It is scarce, few fruits appear. Their ripening occurs in mid-autumn, seeds with wings are in boxes. In autumn, the color of the leaves changes to yellow-red. Weigela does not drop leaves for the winter.

Weigel Middendorf

profusely blooming

It comes from the mountainous regions of Japan, grows to a height of three meters. The leaves are oblong, large, pubescent below and on petioles. Three-centimeter flowers are dark red at first, then brighten, they are also pubescent. Shrub growing fast, needs moisture and fertile soil. Thanks to the height of the curved and beautifully flowering branches, it looks spectacular next to the trees and on the borders of the paths.

Pleasant

Low bushes with bright green leaves settle in cedar forests, in the highlands in Primorye, on Sakhalin. In mid-September and the color changes, and in October they fall off. Thanks to the graceful coloring of funnel-shaped flowers - purple on the outside and soft pink on the inside - this species is considered the most attractive of all. The first flowering occurs in May-June, and the second - at the end of summer. Looks great on lawns and in combination with coniferous and deciduous shrubs.

Weigela profusely flowering

Early

It grows in China, in the north of Korea, in the south of the Ussuri forests. Light-loving, spreading shrub with dense foliage and gray or reddish bark grows up to two meters in height. Seven-centimeter bright green leaves in autumn acquire a brown-yellow or ocher color. Bright pink flowers bloom profusely and have an original shape. The plant easily survives a transplant, not demanding on the composition of the soil, looks spectacular in hedges, does not require a haircut. But in cold winters it needs to be covered.

Sadovaya

A low shrub native to Japanese forests. The leaves are large, sitting on short legs. Flowers tricolor, numerous, tubular-bell-shaped. The first wave of flowering occurs at the end of May, and the second - in July. Leaf color changes in October but the plant does not always manage to shed them before the cold weather. Frost resistance and drought resistance of the plant is more pronounced in mature specimens. Likes bright sun, grows singly or in small groups. There are varieties with white flowers.

Weigela early

blooming

The homeland of the plant is Primorye, Japan and northern China. This is a three-meter shrub with red-brown or gray shoots. It can grow in the sun and in the shade, but in the latter case, the leaves lose their decorative color. In the Moscow region, one cannot do without shelter for the winter. When frozen, it is easily restored and even blooms in the first season, albeit late. Needs moist, fertile soils with a slightly acidic reaction. Garden forms are bred with brown-red leaves and dark pink, yellow in the middle, flowers. There are also varieties with small white, later turning pink, flowers. White dots are clearly visible on their leaves.

Features of caring for weigela in the fall

Weigela, although not a very easy to care for perennial plant, but often in the conditions of the Moscow region can often winter even without shelter. Preparing an ornamental shrub for winter comes down to simple activities.

Watering mode

Weigela does not tolerate stagnant moisture, does not grow in flooded areas without drainage. As a rule, in conditions of rainy autumn, the plant does not need watering. Only with excessively dry soil, the shrub is watered with settled warm water. Watering is stopped in the second half of September.

How to cut weigela after flowering (video)

Feeding weigela in autumn

In autumn, the third top dressing of weigela is carried out. Simultaneously with digging, potash fertilizers are applied (Kemira-autumn), soil enrichment with ash in the amount of 200 grams per square meter of land is also practiced. An alternative option for autumn top dressing of the area under the weigela is as follows: up to 4 kg of humus or compost, 50 grams of superphosphate and 30 grams of potassium sulfate per square meter of area.

Purpose and features of autumn pruning weigela

Shrub cutting is mainly done in the spring. Formative pruning of adult bushes should be carried out in the summer before the start of the second flowering weigela. It takes place on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, they must have time to grow before flowering.

Bushes from three to four years of age need rejuvenation. Do it after the second flowering. At the same time, adult branches are removed, and young ones are cut by a third. Sometimes all shoots are cut every few years. Pruning sites are treated with garden pitch. After this procedure, the shrub tolerates wintering better and recovers in spring.

Weigela pruning is mainly done in the spring.

Weigela shelter as the main way to prepare for winter

After transplanting to a new place, a young shrub needs shelter for the winter. A full-fledged shelter may be an option in which several sticks are dug around the circumference of the bush and tied. This design is the basis, which is wrapped with a dense non-woven covering material. All this is compacted with spruce branches and dry leaves, then strengthened with a film.

It is especially important to provide the bush with such protection before a snowless winter. Otherwise, it may break. After that, new branches will appear in the spring, but you will not have to wait for flowering this year. Without shelter, the plant may die in cold winter. It is imperative to remove snow from the surface of shelters during the thaw and in spring.

With age, the frost resistance of bushes increases. A 3-5-year-old bush growing in one place without a transplant needs less care than a young one. Even when frozen, wrapped plants recover faster. This applies even to non-frost-resistant varieties of weigela. And bushes more resistant to cold during wintering during heavy snowfalls can suffer without shelter due to the fragility of the shoots.

After transplanting to a new place, a young shrub needs shelter for the winter

About propagation of weigela cuttings in autumn

Weigels begin harvesting cuttings for propagation at the end of summer. For cuttings, branches about a centimeter thick are suitable, reaching a length of up to two tens of centimeters. After pruning, the lower leaves are removed from them and kept in a growth stimulator.
Until spring, the cuttings are placed in the ground. There is no need to dig holes in the garden for them. It is better to choose a shaded place for planting cuttings. Soil preparation begins with the introduction of humus. If the soil is acidic, then lime is added to the bed.
The cuttings are placed to a depth of 10 cm, leaving a distance of up to a quarter of a meter between neighboring plants, the soil is compacted and watered.
A year later, the cuttings are transplanted half as often. And after a couple of years they are added dropwise at an angle, completely covering the roots and part of the crown with earth, so that the wintering goes well. Before this, a landing pit with a volume of 50 by 50 cm is prepared, it is covered with the same amount of humus and sand and half the amount of soddy land. It is also possible to fertilize the soil with two buckets of compost and 100 grams of nitrophoska.

Bushes are planted at a distance of two meters from each other, if they are high varieties of shrubs and half as often if they are low. The root neck of the weigela should be at ground level when planting. After the land shrinks as a result of irrigation, it will lower by a couple of centimeters, which is necessary for the successful wintering of the shrub.

How to care for weigela (video)

The eastern beauty weigela has taken root well in the Moscow region. Subject to certain rules of care, including autumn care, this beautiful ornamental shrub tolerates wintering well. And then it is covered twice in a season with beautiful delicate, bright flowers.

Do you want to decorate your garden? Plant a weigela, you won't regret it!

- decorative deciduous shrub, with rather large funnel-shaped or bell-shaped flowers, collected in loose inflorescences, belonging to the genus of shrubs of the Honeysuckle family (Caprifoliaceae).

Weigela flowers can be white, cream, purple, pink or carmine red, and the color of weigela flowers changes during flowering: at the very beginning of flowering, the opening weigela flowers have a lighter color, gradually the color becomes brighter and more saturated. Another advantage of weigela is that it blooms twice a year.

The first flowering of weigela begins at the very beginning of summer, from mid-May to mid-June, on last year's shoots, when weigela branches are simply strewn with flowers.

Weigela blooms again in August-September on the shoots of the current year. Of course, the second bloom is not as plentiful as in spring, but it adds its own color to the autumn colors of the garden, its palette to autumn flowering plants. After flowering, fruits are formed - bivalve boxes filled with small, slightly angular, sometimes winged, seeds.

Weigela decorativeness, unpretentiousness in cultivation and simple reproduction have made this shrub popular among amateur gardeners. With the help of weigela, you can set a certain style for the garden, for example, poetic. Weigela plantings will add a little romance to the garden.

About 5-7 species grow in the wild, of which three species of weigel are found in Russia in the Far East. On the basis of these species, 9 varieties of weigela were bred and introduced (relocated outside the natural distribution area and introduced into cultivation).

Growing weigela

Weigele, like many other perennials, it is advisable to pay a little more attention in the early years. It is necessary to choose the right place for planting, take into account its requirements for soil, moisture. With age, weigela care requirements are reduced.

The soil. Before planting, it should be noted that weigela is quite demanding on the composition of the soil, prefers to grow in loose, nutritious and permeable soil. On heavy and poor land, weigela will grow very slowly. She does not like strong waterlogging, so it is better to refuse areas with prolonged standing of flood waters, spring flooding, or with a high level of groundwater. If you have acidic soil on the site, then first in the fall, lime the site.

Weigela planting dates. It is desirable to plant weigela in the spring. Three-year-old seedlings are well suited for planting in a permanent place in the garden. If you plant a weigela in the fall, then in the very first winter it may die. If you purchased weigela seedlings in the fall, then it is better to dig them in an inclined position, covering most of the crown with earth.

Weigela landing site. An elevated place, protected from cold north and northeast winds, is better suited for landing weigela. From strong gusts of cold wind, weigela flowers and buds can fall off. The place where you are going to plant the weigela should be well lit, since in the penumbra the flowering of the weigela will not be very plentiful, the flowering time is shifted, the seeds do not have time to ripen.

Planting weigela. The site must be dug up very well before planting. Lay drainage at the bottom of the landing hole. It can be broken red brick, expanded clay, gravel or a thick layer of sand (about 15 centimeters).

It is advisable to add 5-7 kilograms of rotted humus or compost from leaves, turf soil into the planting hole. If there is loam on the site, then add sand to the soil, which will allow water not to linger for a long time in the upper soil layer. Before planting, it is advisable to add 60-80 grams of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium salt to each planting hole. You can use other fertilizers, which contain phosphorus and potassium. Mix everything well.

Before planting, you can treat the roots of seedlings in a solution of a root formation stimulator, for example, Ribav-extra, Radipharm, Viva +. Then the survival rate of seedlings will be much higher.

If you have several weigela seedlings, then it is better to plant them at a distance of two meters from each other. Spread the roots very carefully, lightly compact the ground around the roots so that there are no air spaces near the roots. Water the weigela seedlings well. Once again, pay attention - the root neck of the seedlings should be at the level of the soil. After that, it is desirable to mulch the soil around the seedlings.

Further care will consist in moderate watering, especially if marco or there has not been rain for a long time. A thick layer of mulch can significantly shorten the time between waterings. Remove weeds in time, they take away nutrients from cultivated seedlings.

Another important aspect when caring for weigela: watch the density of the soil. As soon as it has caked, compacted, immediately loosen it on the bayonet of a shovel, after which you can again put mulch from sawdust, chopped grass or bark. However, when loosening the topsoil, be careful not to damage the weigela root system.

pruning. In the early years, only sanitary pruning of weigela is done. Remove only diseased, weak, frozen shoots during the winter.

Further, sanitary scraps it is better to carry out in early spring, when after wintering weak, diseased, strongly thickened and frozen shoots will be visible.

Formative pruning weigels are made in the middle of summer after flowering, while new shoots have not yet grown. If you hesitated and missed the time of trimming, then it is better not to do it. This is due to the fact that weigela will re-bloom exactly on young shoots that have grown back after flowering.

Conducted once every three years anti-aging pruning. All thickening branches are cut out, as well as branches older than three years. Such pruning stimulates the development of new young shoots, prevents the development of various diseases, the spores of which can persist in the old bark. You can even completely cut off all the shoots, weigela recovers well.

Preparing weigela for winter. In late October - early November, after all the leaves have fallen on the weigel, sprinkle the near-stem circle with earth, the height of the mound should be at least 15-20 centimeters. It is advisable to tie the branches of the weigela and bend them to the ground. If there is little snow in winter, then take care of sheltering weigela bushes with burlap, agrospan, roofing material.

Remember that weigela is still a heat-loving plant. In central Russia with cold winters, it is desirable to grow winter-hardy varieties of weigela. But with age, the frost resistance of weigela increases markedly. And sometimes, even after severe damage by winter frosts, the weigela is completely restored and blooms in the same year.

Weigela top dressing. If all the recommended fertilizers were applied during planting, then in the next two years the weigela can not be fed.

Further first feeding weigela done in early spring: a complete mineral fertilizer is applied, in which there is nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, for example, ammophoska, diammophoska or other fertilizers. Spring application of nitrogen-containing fertilizers stimulates the growth of leaves and new shoots. Fertilizers can be applied separately, for example, ammonium nitrate, phosphate or double superphosphate, potassium sulfate. When applying fertilizers, you must follow the instructions for the use of fertilizers and safety precautions.

The second top dressing of weigela- in late May - early June, when flower buds form, weigela prepares for flowering. At this time, simple or double superphosphate, potassium sulfate is added. Fertilizers are applied strictly according to the instructions. The introduction of nitrogenous fertilizers at this time is undesirable, since they can already provoke the development of rot, slow down the maturation of wood. But the phosphorus fertilizer applied before flowering will make the weigela bloom abundant and long, and potassium will strengthen the branches and prepare for winter.

The third dressing of weigela done in the fall, potash fertilizers are applied for digging, for example, kemira - autumn, potassium sulfate or potassium chloride, or you can use ordinary wood ash at the rate of 200 grams per 1 sq.m.

Diseases and pests of weigela

The main weigela pests are aphids, various leaf-eating caterpillars. Thrips and spider mites can pester only if strong heat is established during weigela flowering. But, basically, weigela already has time to bloom by the time hot and dry weather sets in.

Young weigela seedlings are sensitive to any root system. If weigela seedlings suddenly begin to turn yellow, wither, shoot growth stops for no apparent reason, then it is probably possible to carry out preventive treatment, for example, shed the soil with any available insecticide: karbofos solution, aktara or any other. May beetle larvae, bears can be brought into the planting pit when humus and compost are introduced. Therefore, very carefully inspect all the compost introduced into the hole. If a bear is found on the site, then when landing in a hole, apply insecticides against the bear, for example, medvedoks. This will help preserve the root system of weigela seedlings.

Sometimes damage to the root system of young weigela seedlings is severe and can no longer be restored.

Weigela is rarely affected by diseases, but with improper, thickened planting during hot and humid weather, various bacterial rots can develop, for example, gray rot or fusarium, sometimes, if the plant is weakened, various spots on the leaves may appear. In cold rainy weather, with a dense planting, the lower leaves of the weigela can be affected by powdery mildew. To avoid this, follow the rules for planting weigela, thicken the plantings, leave a distance between the plants so that there is ventilation around the plants in hot and humid weather. Do not plant weigela in drafts, cold gusts of wind in wet weather contribute to the development of powdery mildew. Periodically treat weigela seedlings with fungicides. They help to strengthen the protective functions of plants, significantly reduce the development of various bacterial diseases.

Weigela reproduction

Weigela seed propagation. Weigela is easily propagated by seeds. You can, of course, sow seeds in pots and boxes, creating greenhouse conditions. But this is so much rigmarole! The easiest way is to leave the crumbled seeds on the ground under the leaves. In the spring, most of them will germinate. Thin out the ascended weigela seedlings, leave a few of the strongest seedlings for growing. You can transplant them into a school next year, or leave them to grow under an adult bush for another two years. By this time they will become full-fledged seedlings. However, not everything is so smooth in weigela seed propagation. Seed-grown offspring do not retain parental original forms and may produce heterogeneous offspring. Therefore, weigela is better to propagate vegetatively.

Vegetative propagation of weigela: propagation by green shoots of the current year, semi-lignified cuttings, cut from last year's shoots, undergrowth from a stump. Young shoots of the current year are taken on green cuttings. It is better to immediately cut the leaves completely or 1/2 of the leaf plate. Prepared cuttings are processed in a solution of a root formation stimulator.

Green cuttings of weigela are planted at the end of June in a mixture of peat and sand. The top layer of soil (about three to four centimeters) should be sand. Weigela cuttings should not be buried too deep, it is enough to immerse to a depth of one centimeter, it is advisable to cover the rooted cuttings from above with a plastic film to create a greenhouse effect or plastic bottles. Watering and airing the cuttings should be daily. Weigela cuttings take root very quickly. The rooting rate of weigela cuttings is very high - above 90%.

Weigela, propagated by summer green cuttings, blooms for the first time at the age of two years. For better development of the seedling, it is better to cut off the first buds.

For breeding weigela last year's semi-lignified cuttings shoots of last year's growth are taken in early spring, before the start of sap flow and before the leaves bloom. It is also desirable to process the cuttings in a solution of a root formation stimulator. You can also plant cuttings in boxes or pots under a jar, or in open ground in partial shade also under a jar or plastic bottle. When propagating weigela with semi-lignified cuttings, the survival rate of cuttings is somewhat lower than with green shoots. After about a month, if rooting was successful and a new shoot appeared, then pinch it in order to stimulate the development of side shoots.

Instead of shoots from the crown for propagation of weigela, you can use the young shoots from the stump. Rooting will be exactly the same as described above.

Among other things, weigela can be propagated by layering. In the same way, many garden plants reproduce, for example, currants, honeysuckle, gooseberries.

Examine the weigela bush. Surely there is a branch, tilted low to the ground. Inspect this branch, bend it to the ground, scratch the bark of the shoot at the point of contact with the ground, treat it with a root formation stimulator and sprinkle it with earth. Next year in the spring you will have a full-fledged weigela seedling. Cut off the shoot from the main bush, and feel free to transplant it to a permanent place.

Image copyright flickr.com: Lee Wright , Rhian , Peter Stevans, Rusty Clark, Esther Westerveld, normanack, Gail Frederick, quattrostagioni, peganum, crabchick, Leonora Enking F. D. Richard

The plant is quite unpretentious, tolerates wintering well. Regularly carry out agrotechnical measures necessary for the normal growth and flowering of the shrub.

How to grow weigela? Basic Rules:

Don't over-moisten the soil. When planting, arrange a drainage layer of crushed stone in the pit. For weigela, a lack of moisture is less harmful than its excess. Water young plants more frequently during dry months. Loosen the soil to a depth of about 5 cm. This will prevent the formation of a dense crust, saturate the soil with oxygen and get rid of weeds. Regularly add mulch around the bushes. A layer of sawdust or bark will retain moisture in the soil, decorate the area around the bush and prevent the growth of weeds. Do not forget to feed the weigela. In the spring, be sure to fertilize the ground. During the formation of flower buds, feed the plant with the following composition: potassium sulfate and double superphosphate - 30 g each. Apply potash fertilizer in the fall. Pruning in time. This operation is needed not only to form a beautiful crown. During sanitary pruning, weak, diseased shoots are removed.

Landing

It is advisable to plant young bushes in late March - early April. By this time, the soil warms up enough. Experienced gardeners recommend buying seedlings aged three years and above. These plants are already quite strong and take root well in the new soil. Landing Rules:

Choose a well-lit, sheltered place from the winds. The soil must be fertile. Look for a soil with an acidity between pH 6 and 6.5. Composition: soddy soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 2: 1. Prepare a planting hole for the plant, 50-60 cm deep. The diameter is about the same. These dimensions allow you to freely place the weigela roots in the pit. Put a layer of gravel or rubble on the bottom. So you will ensure sufficient moisture removal. Drainage layer - up to 15 cm. The crown of weigela of different varieties grows up to 3 m. Provide the plants with free space for development. The distance between the bushes is about three meters. When the soil subsides, make sure that the root neck remains at ground level. After planting, water the plant well, mulch with bark or sawdust.

Video about weigel, planting and care.

You will read about this in our next article.

And this article talks about common privet and other varieties.

Weigela spring care

If there are a lot of snowdrifts on the site, evenly distribute the snow over the territory. The melting process will be faster. After the snow melts, carefully untie the bushes covered for the winter. Remove the spanboard or craft paper, straighten the branches. Inspect the weigela bushes. Find out which branches to cut. Shoots damaged by frost will have to be removed. Remove debris from under the bush that has accumulated over the winter and the remains of old leaves, loosen the soil well. Water the frozen plant more abundantly. At the beginning of spring, carry out the first top dressing: add a mixture of potassium sulfate (10 g), superphosphate (10 g) and urea (20 g). After fertilizing, pour a new layer of mulch.

Planting weigela: features and requirements

Weigela is one of those flowering shrubs whose presence in the garden is a source of pride for its owner, since in our climatic conditions it is quite difficult to preserve this plant, and even more so to enjoy its flowering. The secret to successfully growing weigela consists not so much in choosing the right variety, but in the peculiarities of the microclimate on the site, buying seedlings only from local nurseries and ... in the luck of the gardener. All weigels are to a certain extent demanding of heat, they are also photophilous.

The most suitable place for them is in a lighted clearing among low bushes. A very good solution would be to place the weigela in a place protected from through northern winds, for example, on the south side of the building or on the slope of the southern exposure. The exception is the Middendorf weigela, which is not only winter hardy, but also tolerates slight shading.

When planting, choose areas protected from cold northern winds with fertile light soil. Conditions with stagnant moisture are unacceptable, therefore, drainage systems are required. All weigels grow and develop better on loose and fertile soil with a moderate level of moisture. Loosening and mulching of the soil is recommended.

When dry, watering is necessary. It is advisable to cover young plants for the winter. The first top dressing of the soil is carried out in early spring. To strengthen the general condition of a plant that has survived a harsh winter for it, a complex mineral fertilizer is applied to the soil.

The second top dressing is carried out in May, during the formation of flower buds. There are, of course, little tricks. In adverse winters, individual branches can freeze slightly. Proper pruning will help to solve this problem, which will competently form a bush with a lush, but not thickened crown, save it from frost and fully allow you to enjoy the beauty of flowering. For more details, see the video about planting weigela:

How to cut weigela

Pruning shrubs, as you know, is sanitary and formative. Sanitary pruning is carried out, as a rule, annually or every three years, while the old ones are removed and one of the branches intertwined at the base is removed, which is often found in weigels.

It should be remembered that pruning stimulates the active formation of new shoots, so more than 30% of the total mass should not be removed so as not to provoke crown thickening in subsequent years. Formative pruning in weigels is reduced only to shortening the shoots in height. It should be done annually in early spring. During the season, the shoots of the weigel grow unevenly, and if the plant is started, the bush may begin to fall apart, breaking the symmetry of the crown.

In the first year after planting (spring), it is necessary to cut off weak growths and shorten the main branches to a strong pair of buds. As a result, by autumn, several strong growths are formed on the lower part of the crown and many side branches on the main stems. It is necessary to cut off all weak or incorrectly located branches to maintain the symmetry of the crown. In subsequent years, immediately after flowering, faded stems should be cut off to strong young growths located below, weak branches should be removed.

Weigela reproduction

The most common weigela propagation method - cuttings. Wood cuttings are ineffective, and the results will have to wait a long time - 5 years, so reproduction is most often used with the help of green cuttings.

It is better to carry it out before the start of kidney formation, i.e. in April-May. The length of the cuttings is 10-12 cm. Make the cut straight, leave two leaves on the handle. Reproduction of weigels is carried out by summer cuttings in early July.

Then they are planted for rooting in a sand-peat mixture, sprinkled with sand and covered with plastic wrap. Planting depth - 0.5 cm. Water the plant twice a day. Roots appear on the 25-40th day.

Plant the seeds in boxes filled with sand and fertile soil. Surface-sown seeds are sprinkled with sand and covered with glass. Expect seedlings in 3 weeks.

Weigela care

For better growth, the bushes are systematically pruned, diseased and dry branches are removed. The best time for sanitary pruning is spring or early summer.

Plots with wilted flowers are shortened, and the cut points are treated with garden pitch (can be found on the market). Young weigela needs your care. For the winter, wrap the bushes with kraft paper or modern covering material - spunbond.

Sprinkle the trunk circle with spruce branches or dry foliage. These simple measures will help the plant to endure severe frosts. If, after the winter, the plant is very frozen, then abundant watering (10 liters of water per bush) will correct the situation.

The same becomes mandatory in hot weather. Already adult plants growing in the garden for more than 3-5 years will require much less attention. In winter, after a heavy snowfall, and especially in March, when the snow begins to melt, you should walk around the garden and shake off the snow from the branches.

From breakage and deformation of the branches of the weigela, a wire or rack frame installed in the fall above the bush will help. It will strengthen the fragile skeleton of the bush and relieve the overwhelming load from the snow that becomes heavier by spring. The soil is fertilized twice a year.

The first time - in early spring, the second - during the formation of buds, in early June. Potassium sulphate, double superphosphate, urea are used for this. When the first signs of bacterial damage to the leaves appear (yellowish, purple foci, premature fall, white bloom on the upper side of the leaf), a mixture of lime milk and copper sulphate (Bordeaux liquid) is used. Topsin, which irrigates the bush, will get rid of rot and rusty spots (1% solution is used during the growth period, 3% before bud break). Infusions of bitter pepper, garlic, wormwood, potato tops are effective against pests.

Weigela: planting and care, grower tips

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Weigela- this is one of those flowering shrubs, whose presence in the garden is a source of pride for its owner, since in our climatic conditions it is quite difficult to preserve this plant, and even more so - to enjoy its flowering. The secret of successful cultivation of weigela lies not so much in choosing the right variety, but in the peculiarities of the microclimate on the site, buying seedlings only from local nurseries and ... in the luck of the gardener.

Types of weigela blooming

Weigela (Weigela) belongs to the honeysuckle family, the height of the bush ranges from 60 cm to 2 m, depending on the species, although in harsh climatic conditions for weigela, it rarely exceeds one and a half meters. The flowers are tubular, solitary or collected in umbellate inflorescences located in the axils of the leaves. In our country, at least in its European part, weigela Middendorf and weigela hybrid are grown.

We also have such types as early, garden, Korean. Weigels are extremely beautiful: profusely flowering, pleasant, blooming, but they cannot withstand our winters.

Weigel Middendorf originally from the Far East, a fairly large but graceful shrub that blooms from late May to mid-June, large creamy flowers with orange speckles. In autumn, like other species of weigel, it sometimes has a second bloom, of course, less plentiful than spring.

Weigela Middendorf is the most winter-hardy species for the middle lane. Weigela hybrid combines numerous garden forms obtained by crossing different types of weigel. As a rule, it is she who is represented in numerous nurseries and garden centers, there are a lot of varieties, they differ from each other in the shape and size of the bush, color and shape of leaves and flowers. This variety is so impressive that you can resist buying this beautiful exotic, despite all the difficulties of growing.

Weigela: care

Weigela should be planted in places well protected from the wind, preferably a sunny location, but under openwork crowns in a group of trees, it will also feel great. Moreover, planting in groups for weigela is preferable, since in them it is better protected from the wind and snow lingers better there in winter. It prefers loose, humus soil, although Middendorf's weigela grows well on peat bogs.

Weigela prefers moderate watering, does not tolerate waterlogging, is responsive to top dressing. Complex mineral fertilizer is applied in early spring - in the snow and in the first half of summer (no later than the beginning of August) during the laying of flower buds.

You can make additional top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in September to accelerate the lignification of cells and the formation of flower buds, which in turn allows the plant to better endure the winter. Weigela pruning is carried out immediately after flowering, while shortening faded branches. In the spring, you can make sanitary pruning by cutting out dry and frozen shoots.

Weigela shelter for the winter

Weigela needs to be covered for the winter, especially young bushes in the first 2-3 years of life. To make a full-fledged shelter, you need to drive 3 sticks around the bush before the onset of frost and tie them at the top with a rope.

Wrap a piece of dense covering material around this “hut”, after filling the voids in it with pre-prepared dry leaves or spruce branches, fix the film on top. In snowless winters, shelters are especially necessary, otherwise, at best, the bush will simply “take down” to ground level, in spring it will give growth, but, of course, it will not bloom, and at worst, the plant will simply die.

Weigela reproduction

Weigels can be propagated by seeds, green and semi-lignified cuttings. But hardly anyone wants to wait for seedlings to bloom for 5-6 years, while woody cuttings do not take root well. A relatively easy way to propagate weigela is with summer (green) cuttings.

They are cut in June, 10-12 cm long with two pairs of true leaves, treated immediately before planting with a solution of heteroauxin (60-70 mg / l) and planted under a film for rooting. Rooted cuttings can be transplanted to a permanent place next spring, they bloom in the third year.

Weigela in garden design

Weigela is widely used in landscape design due to its universal decorative effect. She has a beautiful densely leafy crown, and the leaves can be different not only in texture, and very beautiful flowers of various shades - from white to purple.

It is amazingly good as a tapeworm on a green lawn, but, unfortunately, a single planting of weigela is very vulnerable in our climatic conditions. Weigela looks no less original on the edges next to tall trees, in groups of ornamental shrubs and against the background of coniferous plants.

Low-growing varieties are used in mixed mixborders along with perennial and bulbous plants - dwarf irises, decorative onions, pale blue forget-me-nots and other spring flowers. Such a high decorativeness of weigela, despite its delicacy and fastidiousness, makes it a welcome guest in the gardens of real connoisseurs of beauty and gardeners in love with their work. © 2010 - 2014, Planting a Garden . All rights reserved.

cultivation, landing, care, flowers and flower beds, weigels February 24, 2013, 20:55 Weigela- deciduous shrub of the honeysuckle family, able to effectively decorate your garden.

Weigela will delight with pink, red, cream, yellow and white bell flowers twice a year - in spring and at the end of summer. It is noteworthy that the color of the inflorescences during flowering is not the same: the newly opened corollas are pale, but gradually they gain strength and become brighter.

Planting weigela

The best time for landing is March-April. During the autumn planting, the seedlings do not have time to take root and die, so if you purchased plants in the fall, you should not rush - wait until spring.

Dig the weigela in an inclined position and cover the crown with earth. When buying, take an interest in the age of the plant - specimens that are more than 3.5 years old adapt well to new conditions. Choose your landing area carefully.

Weigela is photophilous, warmth and abundance of the sun are prerequisites for full development. Leaves and flowers are easily damaged by the wind - the planting site must be reliably protected from the northern winds.

The shrub prefers loose, fertile soil, does not tolerate compaction and waterlogging of the soil. The soil should be loosened regularly, preferably after each watering. If this is not possible, then cover the ground with peat or sawdust.

Lay gravel and sand at the bottom of the planting pit with a depth of 50 cm (layer thickness - 15 cm), plant the bushes at a distance of 3 meters from each other. Do not deepen the root hole. The soil mixture should include sand, turf and humus in a ratio of 2:2:1.

Weigela reproduction

The most common way to propagate weigela is cuttings. Wood cuttings are ineffective, and the results will have to wait a long time - 5 years, so reproduction is most often used with the help of green cuttings.

It is better to carry it out before the start of kidney formation, i.e. in April-May. The length of the cuttings is 10-12 cm. Make the cut straight, leave two leaves on the handle.

After treatment with a growth stimulator - heteroauxin (150 mg / liter of water), the shoots are left in a dark room at a temperature of 20 degrees for 12 hours. Then they are planted for rooting in a sand-peat mixture, sprinkled with sand and covered with plastic wrap.

Planting depth - 0.5 cm. Water the plant twice a day. Roots appear on the 25-40th day. It is recommended to transplant to a permanent place after 1.5 years. Weigela can also be propagated by seeds.

Preliminary preparation of the source material is not required. Plant the seeds in boxes filled with sand and fertile soil. Surface-sown seeds are sprinkled with sand and covered with glass.

Expect seedlings in 3 weeks.

Weigela care

For better growth, the bushes are systematically pruned, diseased and dry branches are removed. The best time for sanitary pruning is spring or early summer.

Plots with wilted flowers are shortened, and the cut points are treated with garden pitch (can be found on the free market). Young weigela needs your care. For the winter, wrap the bushes with kraft paper or modern covering material - spunbond.

Sprinkle the trunk circle with spruce branches or dry foliage. These simple measures will help the plant to endure severe frosts. If, after the winter, the plant is very frozen, then abundant watering will correct the situation (10 liters of water per bush).

The same becomes mandatory in hot weather. Mature shrubs require much less attention. In the spring, after a heavy snowfall, shake the snow off the branches.

To prevent the bush from deforming under the weight of snow, a frame made of wooden slats, carefully installed in the fall, will help. In winters with little snow, weigela is covered with lutrasil or roofing felt. The soil is fertilized twice a year.

The first time - in early spring, the second - during the formation of buds, in early June. Use for this potassium sulfate, double superphosphate, urea.

When the first signs of bacterial damage to the leaves appear (yellowish, purple foci, premature fall, white bloom on the upper side of the leaf), a mixture of lime milk and copper sulphate (Bordeaux liquid) is used. Get rid of rot and rusty spots Topsin, which irrigates the bush (during the growth period, 1% solution is used, before bud break - 3%).

Infusions of bitter pepper, garlic, wormwood, potato tops are effective against pests.

Types of weigela

1. Weigela early (W.

Praecox). Bushy shrub with gray bark, reaching a height of 2 meters. Flowers - lowered, pink hue. Blooms in May. Flowering time - 15-25 days.

It looks advantageous in the form of untrimmed hedges; 2. Weigel Middendorf (W. Middendorffiana). Plant with ascending shoots 1.5 meters high. The flowers are creamy white or yellowish with an orange centre.

Blooms 2 times a year (autumn and spring) for 30 days. It is used in group and single plantings along the edges, under trees, on lawns; 3. Weigela blooming (W. Florida).

Shrub with bright green leaves that persist even in winter, grows up to 3 meters. Large tubular flowers, collected in small inflorescences, are pink at the edges, and white inside. This type of weigela blooms in May-early June; 4. Weigela Korean (W. Coraeensis).

Reaches a height of 1.5 meters. The bells, located in semi-umbellate inflorescences, are first white, then pink, and then acquire a rich carmine hue. Blooms in early June, flowering duration - 10-15 days; 5. Weigela profusely flowering (W.

Floribunda). One of the fastest growing species, reaching 3 meters in height. The drooping flowers are red at first, and then lose intensity and become light pink.