Automatic air vent for heating. Automatic air vent: about its role in heating, principle of operation and varieties How an automatic air vent works in a gas boiler

Automatic air vents have not yet appeared that would not leak periodically. Which, in general, is not difficult to eliminate temporarily. Why do they leak, how to deal with it, and also why such devices are needed in heating, and how to use them correctly...

Why do you need an air vent?

Any closed pressure coolant system must have one or more air vents. At least one of them is automatic, releasing air on its own, without human intervention, as accumulation occurs.

This ensures the operability of the system and prevents airing. In an air-filled system, the coolant does not move normally, the equipment does not operate stably, noises and pops are heard - small water hammers. Equipment and pumps wear out faster.

Or the air lock will stop the movement of the coolant completely.
Without a small device - an automatic air vent - the system will not work normally - airing will occur.

Where does the air in heating come from and how is it removed?

Air is dissolved in water (in the coolant), and is released when pressure and temperature changes, forming bubbles that accumulate in the upper part of any system.

To remove air, it is necessary to install air vents in many characteristic places of the system, and automatic ones at the most important points where air accumulation is likely. To quickly, constantly bleed off the gas.

They also make separators - sections of pipe with a significant difference in diameter. In the area where the pressure decreases (the movement of the liquid accelerates), air bubbles are released, then they accumulate at the expansion - where they are removed by the described device.

Automatic air vent design

The device is based on a body with a float. The float is connected to a needle release valve, which is located at the very top. If the body is filled with water, the float closes the valve, and the outlet is closed. When air appears, water is displaced, the float sags, the hole opens, and air, accordingly, comes out.

The design of the automatic air vent may be different, the body is steel or bronze, the lever mechanism from the float to the needle may vary. But there is one peculiarity - always strictly vertical installation, only in this position the device works.

A corner design is also possible - the so-called. radiator automatic air bleeder, which is screwed into the end of the structure, usually instead of a radiator plug.

In what places are they located?

The safety group for non-automated heating systems (solid fuel boiler) is equipped with an automatic air vent. In automatic boilers, such a device is always provided inside.

As a rule, for a small home system, one such air valve is sufficient, which is complemented by Mayevsky taps - manual devices for bleeding air.
They are installed at the end of each radiator.

Where to locate - automatic air bleed points

In branched systems, automatic air vents are installed in several places. In addition to the boiler device, the following are also installed:

Equipment of radiators with Mayevsky taps

At the end of each radiator there must be a manual valve for bleeding air. The simplest device - a manual valve - the Mayevsky tap received the greatest popularity.
When the valve is unscrewed, the accumulated air is released. The coolant will flow out after the air.

Radiators are usually installed horizontally, or so that the edge with the valve is 1 cm higher. This is enough to reliably capture and remove air.
In large networks, it is advisable to tilt one of the series-connected radiators a little more and equip it with a corner automatic air vent. Such a device will serve as a separator.

Why does it flow

Plaques and salt deposits gradually form on the needle valve of the air vent. The hole no longer closes tightly - water oozes out - the device leaks.

It is necessary to disassemble the device and very carefully clean the valve needle, seat, and other parts from deposits with a soft tool. If the cleaning is normal (which is not easy to achieve), then you can forget about the leak for a while, until the next accumulation.
It is also important to assemble the housing without leakage; FUM tape is usually used to seal the threads, and the housing itself is tightened by hand.

How to install

There are a couple of important nuances in installing an automatic air vent. It must stand vertically, the valve hole must be straight up, otherwise it will not work. Accordingly, to install it in the main line, a tee of the corresponding thread diameter is screwed in - 1/2 inch.

Polypropylene pipelines have their own tee with metal threads soldered into place.
The security group comb provides its own outlet.
But the air vent is leaking, so how can you disassemble it without draining the coolant from the system?

Application of shut-off valves

The automatic air vent is a frequent maintenance device. It needs to be disassembled and cleaned to prevent leaks. But it is not at all necessary to release the coolant and reduce the pressure in the system.

It is enough to install a shut-off valve under the device.
The air vent is screwed into its body, presses on the lever, the valve membrane sags and the device communicates with the system. When you need to remove it, it unscrews, and the shut-off valve closes the hole.
It is recommended not to skimp and use shut-off valves.

Today we have to find out why we need to install an air vent in the water supply system. In addition, we will find out in which part of the water supply circuit it can be installed, what kind of air vents can be used there, and how to solve the problem of air in the water supply without an air vent. Let's get started.

About hot water supply

First, let's find out why airing of the water supply system occurs and how it interferes. Let's start from afar.

It always has a dead-end wiring: the bottling goes into risers, they branch into connections, and the connections end with taps of plumbing fixtures. Water moves in a dead-end circuit only due to water intake.

Dead-end DHW circuit

Until about the 70s of the last century, hot water supply systems (DHW) in all houses under construction were organized in the same way.

However, this wiring has two serious drawbacks:

1. Having opened the hot water tap, the homeowner is forced to wait for several minutes for it to heat up. The wait is especially long at night and in the mornings, when in the absence of water supply the risers and hot water outlets cool down. This is not only inconvenient, but also contributes to unreasonably high water consumption;

Please note: when recording hot water consumption using a mechanical water meter, you are forced to pay for the entire volume passing through it. In fact, a significant part of this volume does not meet the requirements of current operational standards: the DHW temperature must be within the range of +50 - +75°C.

1. Heating of bathrooms and combined bathrooms in apartment buildings is provided by a heated towel rail powered by a hot water supply system. It is clear that in the absence of water intake in the dead-end system it will cool down. For the apartment owner, this means dampness and cold in the bathroom, and in the long term, a greater likelihood of fungal damage to the walls.

Circulation scheme

Since the late 70s - early 80s, hot water supply in new buildings gradually began to become circulating.

How it's implemented:

• Two hot water supply outlets are laid in the basement or subfloor of the house;
• Each bottling has an independent insertion into the elevator unit;
• The hot water supply risers are connected alternately to both dispensers and are connected by jumpers on the top floor or in the attic. From 2 to 7 risers can be combined into groups connected by circulation jumpers.

Please note: installing lintels in the attic is extremely unwise in cold climates. The author encountered it in the Far East: at a temperature in a cold attic of -20 - -30 degrees, stopping circulation in the hot water system (for example, during an emergency shutdown of hot water) causes the water in the jumper to freeze within an hour.

In order for water to continuously circulate through risers and bottlings, a pressure difference must be created between them. In the elevator unit and further, in the heating circuit powered from it, circulation is ensured by the pressure difference between the supply and return pipelines of the heating main. The obvious way to supply hot water is between the supply and return connections.

However, in this case, an unpleasant surprise awaits us: the bypass between the pipeline threads will catastrophically reduce the drop in the water jet elevator, preventing the heating from operating.

The problem can be solved simply and elegantly:

• The hot water supply cuts into the supply to the elevator at two points. Each of the inserts is equipped with shut-off valves;
• The flange between the inserts is equipped with a retaining washer. This is the name of a steel pancake in which a hole is drilled in the center with a diameter 1 mm larger than the diameter of the nozzle. During normal operation of the elevator and the associated movement of water along the supply line, such a washer creates a difference between the tie-ins of approximately 1 meter of water column (0.1 atmosphere);
• Exactly the same two tie-ins with the same retaining washer are mounted on the return pipeline.

An elevator with hot water circulation taps has three operating modes:

1. Hot water circulates from supply to supply. This scheme is used in spring and autumn, at a relatively low (up to 80 degrees) coolant temperature in a straight line of the heating main;
2. From return to return. DHW switches to this mode in winter, when the supply temperature exceeds 80°C;
3. From supply to return. So the hot water supply system with circulation is powered in the summer, when the heating is turned off, and the difference between the threads of the heating main is minimal or absent.

Air! Air!

Risers, or even the entire hot water supply circuit, have to be reset from time to time.

There are several reasons for this:

• Seasonal repair work(inspection of shut-off valves, scheduled testing of heating mains, etc.);

• Emergency work(elimination of gusts, leaks of risers and spills);
• Work in apartments with faulty valves(in particular, replacing these valves).

Now let's imagine what will happen when a pair of risers connected by a jumper is reset and then launched:

1. As soon as you turn off the valves on the risers, unscrew the plugs and open any tap on any plumbing fixture, the water will completely drain from the paired risers and they will fill with air;

1. When starting paired risers, air will be forced out by water pressure into the upper part of the closed circuit - into the jumper;
2. Since the pressure difference driving the water is minimal, the air in the water supply system will completely stop the circulation in this section. The obvious consequences are the same long heating of water during tapping and cold heated towel rails.

The video in this article will help you learn more about how to remove air from a water supply system.

Manual and automatic air vents

How to remove air from a water supply system after it has been reset? The most logical solution is to bleed the air through an air vent installed directly on the jumper between the risers.

There you can find an air vent belonging to one of two types:

Image	Description
	Manual (Maevsky faucet) - a plug with a screw-in valve using a key or a screwdriver. To eliminate air from the hot water supply system, just unscrew the valve a couple of turns, wait until the air coming out of the hole on the tap is replaced by water, and screw the valve back on. Sometimes you have to bleed the air two or three times as the water displaces new air bubbles into the upper part of the circuit.
	An automatic air vent for water supply does the same without the intervention of the owner. When its chamber is filled with air, the float connected to the spool lowers - after which the water pressure displaces the air plug. The floating float hermetically closes the spool.

Useful: when installing a DHW jumper yourself, the Mayevsky tap can be replaced with a screw valve or a water tap. They are not so compact, but more convenient to use, since they open without the use of any tools.

The obvious advantage of the Mayevsky crane is its low cost. That is why, in Soviet-built houses, exclusively manual air vents were used.

However, from the point of view of ease of use, they are much inferior to automatic air vents:

• Some residents of the upper floors are simply afraid to use shut-off valves that are unfamiliar to them;
• Keys to Mayevsky taps with valves of complex shapes are constantly lost;

• Manifestations of excessive enthusiasm by residents, coupled with technical illiteracy, often lead to flooding of apartments. The fact is that a completely unscrewed valve (and even more so the tap itself) is almost impossible to screw in under pressure. Especially when scalding hot water is gushing out of the hole.

Without air vent

How to remove air from a water supply system with your own hands if you do not have access to an air vent or if it is faulty?

The instructions are ridiculously simple:

1. Close one of the DHW risers connected by a jumper;
2. Fully open one or two hot water taps in any apartment along this riser. After a very short time, the air plug will fly out at the front of the water flow, and the water being discharged will heat up;
3. After all the air has escaped, close the taps and open the valve on the riser.

A private house

Is an air vent needed in the domestic hot water system of a private home?

The answer is pretty obvious. An air vent is necessary if yours uses recirculation and there are no plumbing fixtures at its highest point through which air can escape.

Please note: the presence of a high-pressure circulation pump, coupled with the low height of the circuit, means that you do not have to worry about stopping the circulation. However, air in the DHW system often causes annoying hydraulic noise.

Conclusion

As you can see, problems in the operation of the hot water system often have very simple solutions. The video in this article will help you learn more about how to remove air from a water supply system. Good luck!

Air locks are the simplest and, nevertheless, the most common cause of heating system failures. It is advisable to provide for the installation of an air valve for heating at the design stage in order to avoid sudden problems.

Causes and consequences of air locks in an open heating system with natural circulation

If the pipe slopes in the system are correctly designed, then all the air will be released through the open expansion tank, which is located at the top point of the heating circuit. There can be several reasons for an air lock:

• After repairs, air remained in the heating radiators;
• Incorrect (too fast) filling of the system at startup;
• The circuit is filled with water through an expansion tank;
• When heated, air begins to be released from the water, which was previously in a dissolved state;
• When filling the circuit, water was supplied from above.

The consequences are not difficult to predict - stopping circulation, cold batteries, rapid corrosion of the internal surface of system elements. To avoid this, it is enough to install manual air vents on all radiators - Mayevsky taps.

Causes and consequences of air locks in a closed heating system with forced circulation

H2_2

The reasons are the same as for an open system, plus:

• A loose circulation pump impeller can “grab” air during operation;
• If hot water is supplied to the expansion tank from above, then air can enter the system through cracks or breaks in the tank membrane.

An air lock in a closed circuit will lead to increased pressure in the system and activation of the safety valve. The valve will bleed water over and over again until the boiler burns out or the heating pipes rupture. Therefore, security requirements for closed systems are much stricter. In particular, for air release, the closed circuit is equipped not only with manual Mayevsky valves, but also with automatic air vents. One of these automatic valves is included in the safety group. The group is placed on the water supply, immediately after the boiler.

Important! A leaky pipeline or radiator cannot cause an air lock. A working system, whether closed or open, is under pressure. The air will never go towards higher pressure - this contradicts all the laws of physics.

Automatic air vent

There are mainly Italian and German models of automatic air vents on the market. These are Caleffi, Pettinaroli, Valtec, Watts, Oventrop and Flamco. The most commonly used air valves are the so-called float valve type.

Design

There is a float in a brass or stainless steel body. A simple hinge mechanism called a “rocker arm” is attached to it at one of the edges. A needle (rod) is attached to the other edge of the mechanism. When the body is filled with water, the needle is in a calm state and the valve remains closed. But as soon as air accumulates in the air vent body, the water level, and with it the float, drops. The needle together with the “yoke” begins to move. When the needle enters the spring-loaded spool, it presses on the rod, which, moving, opens the holes for air release. This is how an automatic air vent works.

Installation

In addition to the air valve, which is part of the boiler safety group, an automatic air vent should be installed at the highest point of the circuit. Installation can be done on both vertical and horizontal pipelines. To do this, the manufacturer makes the coolant supply to the air vent both lower end and lower radial. The operating position of the automatic air vent is always vertical.

To be able to remove the automatic air vent without emptying the entire system, its threaded part (G1/2″, G1/4″) is connected to the heating pipe through a shut-off valve.

This simple device consists of a boss with a plastic flap. When the air vent is screwed in, the damper automatically opens, and when unscrewed, it closes.

When installing the air vent, a regular open-end wrench is used; the lower part of the vent body is made in the shape of a hexagon. The air nipple cap must be closed during installation.

Valve malfunctions and solutions

Due to the high salt content of the coolant, the needle may become overgrown with scale and the air vent begins to leak. To clean the vent from scale and rust, unscrew it after first insulating and draining the water from part of the pipeline. If there is a cut-off valve on the fitting, the water is not drained. The valve is disassembled, washed, and the needle is carefully cleaned. During the assembly process, the body parts are sealed together.

To prevent the automatic air vent from becoming clogged, it makes sense to place a mechanical filter directly in front of it.

Very often the air vent is made collapsible. The connection between the body and the lid occurs through a special ring. If it breaks, it causes a leak. It is unlikely that you can buy such a ring at retail. It’s easier to use fum tape or silicone sealant.

If the air vent is mounted deviating from the vertical, it will leak. There is only one salvation - dismantle, plug the fitting and install it strictly vertically in a new place.

The cause of the leak may be a skewed float. It is easy to fix it yourself when disassembling it.

Design and operating principle of manual air valve

The needle manual air valve is also called a Mayevsky valve. His device:

• Brass body (plug) with external thread 1/2 // or 3/4 // for connection to the radiator. The case has two holes for air release Ø 2 mm - one at the end of the case, the second on the side wall;
• Brass locking screw. On one side of the screw there is a groove for a slotted screwdriver, on the other side the screw is machined into a cone that closes the air hole (the “closed” position);
• Plastic casing.

On sale you can find the so-called “faucet at hand”. To use it you don’t need a key or a screwdriver - the plug can be easily unscrewed by hand.

To remove air from the housing, you need to unscrew the screw. To do this, you can, of course, use a screwdriver, but there are special keys that are most often included. After several revolutions, the screw cone comes out of the end hole and air enters the housing cavity, which is immediately released through the second side hole. The main thing is not to rush to turn off the tap. About 30 - 40% of the air should come out with water, so you need to stock up on time, a basin and rags. After the air has been released, the lost water must be added to the system.

Installation

Modern aluminum or bimetallic heating radiators already have a hole for installing a Mayevsky tap. It can be found on the side opposite the coolant supply, from above. Most likely, there is already a nut for installation there. There is a plastic plug screwed into it. After its removal, an air valve is installed in this place. Before this, the tap threads must be sealed with a rubber or silicone gasket.

Installing a Mayevsky crane on a cast iron battery is much more difficult. Let's start with the fact that these valves are much more powerful than those on aluminum radiators - they can withstand pressures of up to 16 atmospheres and temperatures of 150 C°. Sequencing:

1. Drain the water from the radiator;
2. Cut a hole in the top plug of the cast iron battery and cut a thread that matches the external thread of the air vent;
3. Screw in the Mayevsky tap;
4. Add water to the system.

Malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

If the faucet malfunctions, a leak appears. There may be several reasons for this:

• Manufacturing defects. One in fifty taps does not hold pressure at all. The only way out is replacement;
• The screw is too short. In this case, its conical part cannot completely block the hole, so you need to apply a certain force to screw the screw in until it stops;
• Solid particles of debris falling between the screw and the housing can damage the internal threads. Fum tape can help here once, but later you will still have to change the tap.

The presence of air and microbubbles in the heating system leads to a decrease in efficiency and disruptions in its operation:

Automatic air vent, max. temperature 110 °C, 10 bar.

• The heat output of radiators is reduced. Air fills the top of the radiator, causing it to become cold;
• Oxygen present in the air contributes to corrosion of the internal walls of equipment;
• Coolant circulation decreases or completely stops;
• The blades and bearings are subject to increased load, as a result of which the pump may fail prematurely;
• There is constant noise in the radiators, pipes and circulation pump.

One of the most effective devices that can solve all of the above problems is an automatic air vent - a device designed to automatically bleed air from the heating system.

Automatic air vent device

An automatic air vent is a sealed brass body, usually cylindrical or cone-shaped. The body contains a hollow float made of polypropylene or high-quality Teflon, which is connected by means of a lever to the drain valve. The drain valve is equipped with a plastic locking cap-plug, which prevents coolant leakage in the event of a device breakdown.

Note! The air vent will only operate when the locking cap is open. Manufacturers supply air vents with caps that are completely screwed on, this is done to prevent contamination from getting inside the housing. To start the device, the cap should be unscrewed a few turns.

There are 3 types of automatic air vents:

1. Direct traditional (installation is carried out vertically);
2. Angled (at an angle of 90°). They are used as radiator units instead of or in cases where the design of the heating system does not allow the use of a direct air vent;
3. Special air vents for radiators.

How does an automatic air vent work?

The operating principle of an automatic air vent can be described in several “steps”:

• The air accumulating in the device body puts pressure on the float, due to which the float gradually falls down;
• Moving down, the float pulls the lever and the drain valve opens, releasing air out;
• As air leaves the housing, the float rises again, simultaneously closing the bleed valve.

Old automatic vent valve.

The disadvantages of automatic float air vents include their demands on the cleanliness of the coolant. Due to poor-quality coolant, the air outlet hole is partially or completely clogged, which leads to loose closure of the exhaust valve. As a result of this, coolant begins to leak. To solve this problem, you have to disassemble the air vent and clean the locking mechanism.

Another problem with automatic air vents is leakage in the area of ​​the threaded connection between the top cover and the body of the device. The leak occurs due to a rupture of the o-ring, which is installed between the body and the top cover. The failed ring should be replaced with a new one, or the threads should be wound with Tangit Uni-Lock or flax.

Specifications:

Installation

Automatic air vents are mounted vertically (so that the cap is directed upward) at the highest points of the heating system (upper sections of risers, heating devices, boilers, etc.). Corner models are also installed with the cap facing up.

Automatic air vent in the central heating point (central heating point).

Causes of air and air locks in the heating system

• Often in closed heating systems, ordinary tap water, which contains dissolved oxygen, is used as a coolant. When such water is heated, it releases oxygen in the form of a large number of microbubbles. After some time, as the bubbles accumulate, they form an air lock.
• When the system was filling, the coolant was “supplied” at high speed, as a result of which the air did not have time to bleed out. The system should be filled gradually, without haste (it should take about 1 hour to fill the 1st floor of an extensive heating system).
• There is a coolant leak in the heating system or some connections are not tightened tightly, resulting in air entering the system.
• The system uses polymer pipes without an anti-diffusion coating whose walls are oxygen-permeable.
• Errors in system installation can also cause air locks. This especially concerns non-compliance with the required pipe slopes, as a result of which the air “stagnates” in a certain section of the pipeline and does not reach the air vent. In this case, it is recommended to make a cut into the problem area and install an automatic air vent.
• Air entered the system after repair work.

Video

Heating is a complex heating scheme for industrial buildings and residential premises, based on the constant maintenance of a comfortable microclimate. Questions regarding its proper operation may arise at the very beginning of the heating season, when it becomes necessary to find out how to bleed air from the battery. This article will help you understand such nuances and effectively prepare for the cold period.

Why does the heating system get airy?

Air always accumulates in the system, and there is no difference whether it operates centrally or autonomously. The question of how to ventilate the heating system becomes especially relevant in the summer, when all the water is drained from it, as well as in emergency and repair cases, which, given the duration of the heating mains, happen quite often in our country.

Sometimes the cause of the appearance of air is the release of hydrogen from water as a result of certain chemical reactions.

But in fact there may be many more reasons. This:

1. Incorrect filling of the system with water or disruption of the sequence of processes, which leads to air plugs.
2. Formation of metal corrosion on internal heating elements.
3. Lack of such important components as air vents for different heating systems.
4. Insufficient reliability of shut-off valves (valves, etc.).
5. Violation of installation requirements: failure to comply with pipe slopes, etc.
6. The use of fresh water as a heat carrier, which initially contains air, which forms plugs when the temperature inside the pipes rises.

The presence of air in the system answers the question - why pipes leak without visible damage or make gurgling sounds.

Why is air in a heating system dangerous?

As a result of airiness, water circulation decreases, and due to excessive fuel consumption, the overall efficiency of the heating system decreases. Also, vibration from circulating water can weaken the connections of the pipes and radiator, even causing destruction at the welding points.

Air entering the internal metal elements contributes to the formation of rust, thereby reducing their service life. In addition, the system may freeze. What to do in these cases?

In order to solve such problems, it is necessary to install air vents used to effectively bleed air from the system.

Classification of air vents

There are 2 types of air exhaust devices:

• manual (also called Mayevsky cranes);
• automatic.

In addition, they can be straight, angular, radiator, as well as needle and ball. The appropriateness of using a specific type of part is determined by a specialist.

Features of automatic air vents

These elements work according to their name: the air level is regulated automatically and does not require human intervention. Most often they are made of stainless steel or bronze. Automatic diverters consist of a body with a half-inch connection size; they are mounted without or with a shut-off valve. It is the shut-off valve that guarantees quick replacement of the part if repairs are necessary.

In practice, it looks like this: an air vent screwed onto the shut-off valve provides access to the heating system by pressing on the plastic flag.

If it is necessary to unscrew the part, this flag moves upward, thereby blocking the leakage of the coolant.

Installation of automatic taps

Air vents are installed where there is a constant accumulation of air and it can be problematic to manually remove air pockets from the system. These are the top points of boilers, collectors and heating circuits.

The installation of these elements must be carried out in a strictly vertical position. In case of urgent need, you can purchase parts with a horizontal outlet.

Do not allow the air vent to become obstructed.

Mayevsky cranes: principle and nuances of operation

To remove an air lock from a standard radiator, in the vast majority of cases, a Mayevsky tap, or a manual air vent, is used.

The part consists of a brass body and a cone-shaped screw. The hole through which air can be released is located on the side of the case. The location of the taps depends on the type of heating system. In the horizontal version they are mounted on each radiator, and in the vertical version - in devices located on the top floor of the house.

The main condition for their normal performance is the correct selection of parts taking into account the thread sizes. Manual taps are easy to use and do not require any special skills from users, which is why they have become widespread. It is enough to clean dirt on the housing or plastic gasket from time to time.

The nuances of installing air vents on old-style radiators

On old radiators operating in a centralized system, it is better not to install automatic air vents. This will entail the need to remove air pockets too often due to many years of operation of the elements, their contamination or shutdown of heating.

Water hammer, which is possible in a central heating circuit, requires the use of special automatic air vents that can withstand coolant temperatures above 150 degrees. These may be parts marked MS-140 or OMEC.

If you mount a Mayevsky valve on old radiators, then you first need to drill a hole on the topmost plug, and then cut a thread with which the air vent is screwed in.

Features of manual air removal

Airing the heating circuit threatens users with serious troubles, so it is necessary to regularly clean it and follow the general recommendations in the process of removing air:

• first visually inspect the elements of the heating system, check all joints for possible leaks, and, if necessary, carry out repair work;
• If you have a circulation pump, it is important to check its functionality and also prepare it for operation by performing preliminary lubrication and test operation.

Stages

Upon completion of the preparatory work, you should stock up on a wrench, a screwdriver, as well as a container for draining water and perform the work, adhering to the following algorithm:

1. The power goes out.
2. The coolant supply is blocked.
3. Using a screwdriver or a key, the thermostat and Mayevsky tap are opened to the maximum, as a result of which the hissing of air is heard (this is how the plugs come out).
4. Then water begins to flow, which is drained into a sewer or container. It is important to monitor the flushing and turn off the water only after it becomes clean, without air bubbles.

The increase in the speed of the process is influenced by valves open on radiators located on the upper floors.

The vented system should be filled starting with the boiler. It is recommended to add a substance that suppresses rust formation. This is done through the top valve. The amount of water in the safety tank determines how completely the system is filled.

If manual cleaning of heating elements is not enough, use chemical or pneumohydraulic pipe cleaning.

An important condition for the normal functioning of the heating system is constant monitoring of the performance of its elements, including air vents. Removing air from the heating system, taking into account all the rules and subtleties, is the key to its long-term reliable operation.