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Caring for the queen of flowers - the rose. Rose care: planting, pruning, top dressing, watering Flower club care calendar all about roses

Caring for the queen of flowers - the rose. Rose care: planting, pruning, top dressing, watering Flower club care calendar all about roses

If you want to have roses in your garden, but you are afraid of stories about how difficult they are to care for, how difficult agricultural technology is, how poorly they withstand wintering - you can be sure that these fears are greatly exaggerated. In fact, caring for plants of unearthly beauty is easy and pleasant. The main thing is to know how.

Rose pruning and care

After the onset of the first spring warmth, the roses are released from the winter shelter and proceed to pruning.

First, dried, damaged branches and dead ends are removed (when dying, the shoots become brown to the core). Weak and diseased branches are pruned in order to provide the flowers with good illumination and air exchange - this will protect them from infection with fungal diseases;
After careful examination, three shoots with strong, healthy buds are selected;
Cut the selected branches with an oblique cut to the strongest bud;
Remove all shoots growing inside the bush;
They form a beautiful crown with a bare center;
After circumcision, they are sprayed with copper sulfate (diluted at the rate of 100 grams per bucket of warm water);
With possible frosts - cover with a film.

The degree of pruning must be carried out, taking into account the following factors:

climate (in cold areas, roses are cut less - they do not grow much);
landing site (foreground or background);
plant species;
the height of the colors you prefer.

Pruning different types of roses

Depending on which variety of rose you prefer, the method of pruning and the size of the stem to be shortened are chosen.

Tea hybrid and flower beds

Pruning begins with the identification of damaged, weakened stems. Dead ends are removed with an oblique cut to the first dormant bud, leaving 3-8 stems. They are cut off, counting the fourth or sixth kidney from the ground. After that, the remaining young shoots will develop evenly.

Standard

Weak, dry and damaged branches are cut out in April. The remaining stems are shortened to three or five of the strongest shoots. Each of them should have six to eight healthy kidneys.

The branches are made shorter by one half, and the side ones by two thirds, leaving three to five buds (if the height of such a sprout is 30 centimeters, it is cut by 10 cm). With a process height of 120 centimeters, it is shortened by 30-60 centimeters. The weeping appearance of the standard flower is only thinned out.

shrubby

They are single and multiple blooming. The first ones are not cut at all, only slightly thinned out. In the second, young stems are left, which are cut off by one third, old ones are cut out.

Climbing

They are divided, like shrubs, into single and multiple flowering. The first thin out immediately after flowering. Flowers appear on young roses, so they are not touched in the spring. After pruning, the branches are tied back to the support. Repeatedly blooming cut along the side shoots up to two or four buds, without touching the main long branches.

Note:

Pruning a rose is done with sharp garden shears, pruning shears (for example, LIST "OK, BISON" EXPERT ") so that the cut is even, smooth. Due to torn edges, infection can get into the shoot. For too thick branches, loppers or garden saws are used (for example, Palisad).

Branches are cut 0.6 - 0.7 centimeters above the developed bud, growing on the outside of the bush, and not inside. A cut made above can contribute to the death of the wood.

Rose care in spring. Fertilization

To be able to enjoy the delicate aroma and beautiful view of roses in your garden, you definitely need to know what and how this plant is fertilized and fed. After all, its health and beauty largely depends on what it eats. Fertilizers (tuki) are mineral and organic. They can be used separately or combined.

Mineral fertilizers for the care of roses in spring

They can be bought in ordinary or specialized stores. Such fertilizers are both liquid and in granules ("Rose"). They start feeding six weeks before frost, using 150 grams per bush monthly. Fish supplements (emulsion and flour), seaweed extract, alfalfa flour with a growth stimulator are also well known.

Organic rose care products in spring

Organic water solutions are most suitable for feeding roses. They not only nourish the plant, but also improve the structure of the earth. They are brought in by the end of the summer. The most famous organic substances are chicken manure, mullein. They contain all the elements necessary for roses: phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen.

Chicken manure fertilizer is produced in many ways. Here is one of the simplest and most effective:

Litter along with bedding (for example, coconut fiber) is poured under each rose bush in a bucket per season;
It is better to lay out such fertilizer little by little (one scoop) daily;
From above it can be mulched;
It is important to remember that fresh chicken manure can burn the roots of the plant. Therefore, it is better not to bring it deep into the ground, but to scatter it from above.

You should also know that roses love water. It is best to keep the ground constantly loose and moist. Mulch will help you with this.

Rose care, when and how to feed

It is important to know that in the first year (as well as during flowering), the rose is not fed.

Stage one

Fertilizers are applied for the first time at the end of April of the second year of the plant's life, before the shoots begin to grow, after pruning. It is desirable to carry out this top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers, urea, or ammonium nitrate - a tablespoon per one bucket of water.

Of the mineral - suitable "Gloria for roses", "Kemira" (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water). Complex top dressing can be carried out with such a mixture: 1 tbsp. "Agricola Rosa" and 1 tbsp. urea - 3 liters per bush.

Stage two

The second feeding occurs at the beginning of shoot growth, when the air temperature reaches +10 degrees. Experienced gardeners and rose lovers, for example, often use a high-quality Toprose fertilizer (from Bayer), which contains elements such as potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and nitrogen. Distribute it on the soil around the rose and cultivate the land with a chopper. One bush needs 28 g. Or potassium sulfate and superphosphate: one spoon per 3 liters of the mixture.

Stage three

During budding. Such fertilizers help well: Agricola Rosa and potassium sulfate (1 tbsp each) plus nitrophoska (2 tbsp) for 10 liters of water - 3 liters per bush. Or: potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Fourth and fifth fertilization stage

After the first flowers During this period, roses need potassium and phosphorus. For example, 1 tablespoon per bucket of Kemira universal water. From organic - chicken manure, mullein. About 5 liters per rose.

Fifth - after the 2nd flowering (end of July). We use any organic fertilizers, in two weeks - potassium-phosphorus. And so until the end of the summer every three weeks. At this, top dressing must be stopped so that young shoots do not begin to appear for the winter.

After feeding or pruning, the plants are mulched. This is a very necessary and important part in the care of roses in the spring, which helps them develop properly and resist various diseases.

Mulching:

does not allow moisture to evaporate quickly;
on hot days, it cools the soil temperature by a couple of degrees;
does not allow the top layer of soil to be compacted;
helps to keep minerals in the earth;
protects roots;
prevents the appearance of pests and diseases;
good effect on the appearance of roses;
prevents the growth and development of weeds.

Mulching is a fairly easy and simple process that can be done, regardless of the time of year. But it is best to repeat it twice a year: in early spring and late summer.

It is done like this:

The soil around the bushes is carefully weeded;
Mulch, 4-6 centimeters thick, evenly cover the soil, making sure not to cover the base of the plant stem;
When this layer becomes humus, it is carefully mixed with the top layer of the earth;
Place another layer of mulch on top.

Mulching agrofibre (Agrospan) can be purchased in stores or made at home from pieces of cardboard, sawdust, dry grass, wood chips, chopped bark, hay.

Compost is the best home remedy. It is made from various components, for example, coffee grounds or food waste (if they contain fruits, vegetables, you need to make sure that there are no seeds), as well as newspaper scraps, dried leaves (the main thing is to make sure that these components do not contain harmful substances). All this is mixed, left to rot and laid out near the roses.

A universal remedy is manure or chicken droppings. It is used as a fertilizer and as a mulch. In the latter, it is used in a dried form. The only drawback is that in such a tool there may be seeds of other plants, which, while growing, will interfere with the development of roses. Therefore, it is carefully examined.

Pests, diseases. Fighting methods

Roses, like other plants, are attacked by pests and diseases. This can result in injury or even death. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to pay due attention to the problem and treat it in a timely manner, as well as to do prevention without fail. Don't forget about your own safety. When carrying out procedures, use protective equipment: rubber gloves, respirators. After the event, thoroughly wash your face and hands with soap.

Prevention

To prevent damage, immediately after the active start of rose growth, it must be sprayed with a fungicide or insecticide, for example, RoseClear. It is better to carry out such preventive actions every 10-15 days, choosing windless, dry evenings for this.

Pests and methods of dealing with them

These small insects are especially dangerous during the development of buds, shoots, leaves and flowers. It is then that the plants become food for the larvae and need protection most of all. Consider the most famous pests, as well as methods of dealing with them.

rose aphid

Hunts in huge colonies. It settles on the lower part of the leaf, buds. Its larvae are practically invisible. They reproduce very quickly; in one growing season they can produce 2 million larvae. Rosan aphid harms plants by sucking their juice. In this case, the flower is disfigured, bent, weakened. May die in winter.

Fighting methods:

Karbofos (60 g per 10 liters of water);
kerosene (2 g per 10 liters of water) - every 10-13 days;
Spark (10 g per 10 liters of water);
Fitoverm (2 ml per 1 liter of water).

spider mite

Appears in summer in hot and dry weather. The female produces about 180 eggs. The spider mite settles on the lower part of the leaves, sucking the juice from the plant and causing a metabolic disorder. Leaves turn yellow and fall off.

Control measures: Agrovertin, Fitoverm (2 ml per 1 liter of water) every 10-20 days, it is enough for 10 square meters of area. Colloidal sulfur (40 g per 10 liters of water) - one liter is enough for five rose bushes.

leaf rollers

They appear in early spring. Leaf rolling caterpillars gnaw the leaves along the edges and fold them, gradually exposing the entire bush.

Methods of struggle: Spark (1 tablet per 10 liters of water) - enough for 50 square meters of area. You can also collect insects with your hands.

Click Beetles

They are found in areas infected with wheatgrass. Nutcrackers eat the stems of the rose bush and its roots.

Methods of struggle: Bazudin (15-20 grams per 15 square meters) is laid out on the ground near the bushes.

Deer and bronze

They live from May to August. Females lay eggs in the ground, and beetles appear in summer. They feed on flowers and pistils of roses.

Methods for dealing with bronzovka: in the early morning, when they are motionless, they can be collected.

Diseases and methods of dealing with them

Roses most often begin to get sick from adverse conditions, such as lack of moisture, nutrition, light, an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Also, infection can occur from the leaves of diseased plants that remain on the site. Below are the main, most dangerous diseases and methods of dealing with them.

powdery mildew

Starts in the middle of summer. It spreads very quickly between bushes. Such a disease looks like a white coating on buds and shoots. Subsequently, infected plants become deformed and dry out. Contribute to the appearance of powdery mildew excessive moisture, lack of lime, oversaturation of the soil with nitrogen.

Methods of struggle: the affected parts are cut off, removed. The earth is being dug up. Bushes are treated from the beginning of spring with copper sulfate (100 grams per 10 liters of water). Seeing signs of the appearance of powdery mildew, the rose can be sprayed with: Topaz (4 ml per 10 liters of water), Quick (2 milliliters per 10 liters of water), Colloidal gray (40 g per 5 liters of water).

Rust

Spread by spores. Orange cushions become visible on the foliage and shoots of roses. The most resistant to this disease are climbing, hybrid, polyanthus varieties; less resistant - remontant and red-leaved roses.

Rust control methods: Hom (40 grams per 10 liters of water) - sprayed on a hundred square meters. Soap solution for spraying is prepared as follows: 300 grams of soap is diluted in ten liters of hot water, cooled, sprayed with a pump. Sick roses are uprooted and burned.

Chlorosis

This is an iron deficiency, often manifested in alkaline, neutral and calcium-rich soils. The leaves of infected plants first turn yellow at the edges (especially young ones), and a green stripe remains near the veins. Later they become white, die off and fall off.

Control methods: Kemira Universal 2 (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) - 2-3 times to apply to the ground. Ferrilen, Ferovit, Iron chelate, Antichlorosis are also used. Iron chelate can be prepared at home: 20 grams of ascorbic acid and 10 grams of copper sulfate are dissolved in one liter of boiled and chilled water.

Outcome

A rose is a pearl and a wonderful decoration for any garden. Knowing all about pest control methods and providing appropriate care, your site will become the most beautiful one that your neighbors will envy. Feed your roses well, prune them according to our tips and enjoy the perfect scent and look of the flowers.

During the summer, roses should be systematically watered, fed, loosened, hilled. Abundant watering every 7-10 days (depending on the weather) contributes to the continuous growth and flowering of roses.

Water should be around the bush or in the furrows, which are then leveled. The soil must be constantly maintained in a loose state so that a crust does not form, preventing air from reaching the roots.

The lower part of the stems should be hilled up by 7-10 cm - this helps to retain moisture at the roots and prevents the young shoots from drying out.

During the season, roses need to be fed 3-4 times.

First feeding should be carried out early in the spring at the very beginning of plant growth (20-30 g of nitrogen, 40-50 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potash fertilizers);
Second top dressing carried out during the budding period - infusion of mullein (for 1 bucket of mullein 10-15 g of potash fertilizers);
Third top dressing needed before the start of the 2nd flowering - (mullein infusion with the addition of 10-15 g of nitrogen, 50-60 g of phosphorus, 10-15 g of potassium fertilizers).
Fourth top dressing should be done at the end of summer (50-60 g of superphosphate, 30-40 g of potassium salt).

For young plants, the feeding rate is 1 bucket per 2-3 plants, for adults - 1 bucket per bush.

And now let's take a closer look at all the rules for growing and caring for a rose.

Growing and caring for roses

Proper pruning of roses .

Pruning roses is a simple operation, but requires knowledge of some rules.

The shoots are cut with a sharp pruner at an angle of 45 °, 5-6 mm above the developed bud. The cut surface must be smooth, without cracks or burrs. It must be covered with garden pitch.

Always cut off shoots to healthy wood. Cut to a bud located on the outside of the shoot, so as not to obscure the center of the bush. Sometimes in strong plants, roses, after pruning, grow from one bud 2- 3 escapes. Leave one, the rest must be deleted. All weak, thin, intersecting, diseased, dead shoots are cut to the level of the soil or healthy wood.

The number of shoots is left on the bush, which ensures air exchange and good illumination of the bush. In this case, the development of such fungal diseases as powdery mildew, black spot, rust, etc., which occur in stagnant air, is excluded.

Proper formation of rose bushes.

Requires special attention in the first summer after planting. All small shoots growing inward, thickening the plant, as well as those growing from the place of grafting or the root collar (in own-rooted ones), are cut into a ring, strongly growing ones are pinched.

In July, the forming prunings are finished so as not to cause the growth of new shoots, which, before they have time to ripen, freeze slightly and often cause roses to be affected by diseases. In grafted roses, wild shoots are systematically cut to the ground, which are especially numerous in the first summer, and in subsequent years it becomes less. In order not to weaken the plants, emerging buds can be removed.

In subsequent years, summer pruning consists in shortening individual, too violently growing shoots, especially in large-flowered rose bushes and stem rose crowns. However, the main task of summer pruning is to encourage the plant to bloom again. In order for the bush to give the maximum number of flowers that this or that variety is capable of giving, the gardener must correctly carry out summer pruning.

! You can’t just remove a faded rose flower with a simple pinch, that is, you tore off one flower, and that’s it; this is a big mistake, because the new shoot with the flower will appear very high.

It will be elongated, thin and easily bendable. It is necessary to remove the flower even before the petals completely fall off, as soon as the flower loses its attractiveness. It is necessary to cut off the flower below, then the new shoot in this place will grow strong and will hold tight (when cutting the flower, leave a 6-8 mm stump above the eye).

! Caring for roses during the growing season (this is spring, summer and autumn) consists in regularly loosening the soil around the bushes, weeding weeds, mulching the soil surface with organic fertilizers, feeding, protecting against pests and diseases, in proper watering, preparing for winter and shelter.

Proper loosening of roses .

Roses need constant loosening of the soil around the plants. In the process of loosening, all weeds are destroyed, air easily penetrates into the loosened soil, and the earth warms up well, moreover, loosening saves water. It is especially important to loosen the soil after watering in hot weather. Loosening is also required after prolonged rains, when a continuous crust forms.

! However, we must remember that deep loosening is dangerous for roses, since damage to even minor roots harms the plant. You need to loosen to a depth of about 5-10 cm.

You can often see how gardeners, when processing bushes, trample the soil that has just been loosened around the plant. After finishing work, be sure to loosen the soil again. Usually loosening is started in May, but in July-August it is stopped in order to avoid inducing the plant to further growth.

Proper mulching of the soil of roses.

When caring for roses, mulching is used with bedding, that is, the surface of the earth around the plants is sprinkled, for example, with peat, humus, peat-manure compost. Such bedding with a layer of up to 10 cm allows you to reduce the amount of watering and loosening.

! Adding (mulching) improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil, the conditions for the vital activity of soil microorganisms.

Therefore, in the spring, immediately after all the spring work, you need to pour mulching material between the rose bushes, and it is better to do this work before the buds open. If the bedding spoils the decorative look, later embed it into the soil by loosening.

Proper watering of roses.

Rosa needs quite a lot of water. Depending on the growth phase, the plant's need for water is not the same. Most of all, moisture is needed during the period of most intensive development, when buds open, shoots and leaves appear, and also after the end of the first flowering, when new shoots begin to grow. Watered at the rate of 1 bush from 15-20 liters, if the weather is dry and warm, twice a week.

During the period of intensive growth, the need for water and nutrition increases significantly. Without enough water and nutrients, the rose produces only weak shoots and frail underdeveloped flowers, usually non-double and on a short stalk. The moisture that rain brings is very rarely sufficient. Superficial, even daily, watering means nothing to a rose.

! Roses should not be watered with cold water, they do not like it. Watering from a hose in May is especially dangerous: this, as a rule, leads to diseases.

Already when loosening the soil, one should also think about future watering, and therefore it is necessary to slightly raise the edges of flower beds and beds so that water does not drain from them, but penetrates into the ground where it is needed. Never water roses in the heat. The settled water is recommended to be poured from a watering can without a sprinkler, in a trickle, directly to the base of the plant, into a shallowly deepened hole. It is important not to spray the leaves.

When watering by sprinkling, as a rule, less water enters the soil than it should be. But if there is no other possibility, then at least it is not necessary to do it under the scorching rays of the sun. You should choose the time of watering so that the leaves have time to dry before evening, but in general watering on flowering plants, especially from a hose, is undesirable. At night, the danger of wet leaves being affected by fungal diseases increases.

The end of summer is the time when excessive watering of roses is not good, but rather, on the contrary, harms them. Excess water encourages plants to continue growing, as a result, the shoots do not have time to ripen in time, and frost can easily damage them. Therefore, with the onset of September, it is better not to water the roses, they have enough natural precipitation. But if the autumn is very dry, then you still have to moderately water the roses, about 10-12 liters of water per bush once a week, so that, having entered the winter period, their roots are not left without moisture. Frozen soil does not allow water to pass through, and roses can die due to lack of moisture. Therefore, abundant watering is so important before the ground is frost-bound. In dry autumn, before winter shelter, it is necessary to provide roses with a sufficient amount of moisture: up to 25-30 liters of water per 1 m 2.

Fertilizers and fertilizing roses

Proper nutrition is an important part of rose care. In the first year after planting, the plant is fed in small doses, carrying out 2-3 feedings over the summer. Basically, top dressing is given from the second year of cultivation.

! Many gardeners make a big mistake by adding fresh manure or bird droppings to the soil for planting roses in the spring - this is simply fatal for young seedlings.

These organic fertilizers are best given to plants in liquid form.

For example, 1 liter of mushy mullein (cow dung) or bird droppings is diluted in 10 liters of water (bird droppings should ferment for 8-10 days in a barrel, only after that it is used, once again diluted at the rate of 0.5-1.0 liters of the prepared solution per 10 liters of water), watered only under the bushes so that flies do not start. After top dressing with such necessary, but unpleasantly smelling nutrients, it is necessary to “powder” the soil with wood ash or chalk from above and loosen it to a depth of 5-6 cm.

Usually in spring, roses receive good nutrition from mulching (bedding) carried out in late autumn, in early November. Usually, decomposed cow dung, or peat-dung humus, or simply well-prepared peat, or vegetable humus, etc. are added to the bushes. These organic materials are an excellent source of humus. Thanks to this nutrition, the rose forms a root system more intensively in the spring, and if at this time it is still fed with nitrogen (about 1 tablespoon of urea (urea)), the results will be excellent.

! Remember that roses do not like acidic soil.

Knowing how much they need organic fertilizers and wood ash, and providing them to plants during the growing season, you will always ensure that the soil reaction is favorable for the growth and development of roses.

! Roses require a sufficient amount of a variety of nutrients and always respond gratefully to their introduction.

In order for roses to always smell fragrant in your garden, they must be provided with all the nutrients.

Nitrogen promotes growth of plants and they need it after pruning (in early May), during the period of formation of new shoots and in preparation for re-flowering. The deadline for nitrogen application is the beginning of August (fertilizers that cause growth: urea, liquid organic top dressing "Effekton-C" and "Effekton-DC").
Phosphorus necessary for the maturation of strong shoots. It also affects the intensity and quality of flowering. It is applied from June to September inclusive (simple or double superphosphate).
Potassium necessary during the period of budding and flowering, as well as when preparing roses for winter. Potassium is easily washed out of the soil, it is applied from June to October in the form of potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), potassium chloride.
Calcium needed to neutralize acidic soils. The creation of an alkaline environment favorably affects the activity of bacteria that decompose organomineral fertilizers. Apply dolomite flour, chalk, slaked lime, wood ash, organic fertilizer deoxidizer.
trace elements(magnesium, iron, boron, manganese) are needed throughout the growing season. The absence of iron in the soil causes chlorosis, the absence of boron and manganese reduces the immunity of plants. Apply "Agricola for flowering plants" (granulated mineral fertilizer) and "Agricola-Rosa", any complete fertilizer (always contains microfertilizers) and wood ash.

Root feeding roses in the first year after planting

First dressing (in the first or second decade of May): for 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea and granular fertilizer "Agricola for flowering plants" or "Agricola-Rosa".
Second top dressing (in the first decade of June): in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska and the drug "Effekton-C".
Third top dressing (at the end of June): in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate (double superphosphate, if simple, 2 tablespoons), 2 tbsp. spoons of "Agricola-Rose" (liquid concentrated fertilizer).
Fourth dressing (in the second half of July): 2 tbsp. spoons of a mixture of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

! The consumption rate of the solution per 1 bush depends on the size of the plant. Under a small bush they give 2-3 liters of solution, for an average bush - 5 liters, for a well-developed 6-7 liters.

Root top dressing introduced from the second year of growing roses

First feeding carried out at the beginning of the blooming of leaf buds: 1 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea and granular fertilizer "Agricola-Rosa". These fertilizers enhance growth and accelerate the development of plants. Spend 3 liters of solution per bush.
Second top dressing carried out at the beginning of the appearance of leaves: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of Agricola-Rosa liquid concentrated fertilizer, nitrophoska mineral fertilizer and organic fertilizer, spending 3-4 liters of solution per bush.
Third top dressing carried out at the beginning of the appearance of flower buds: 1 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of potassium sulfate (mineral fertilizer), 1 tbsp. spoon (20 g) "Agricola for flowering plants", 1 tbsp. a spoonful of organic liquid fertilizer "Effekton". The consumption of the solution for 1 bush is 4-5 liters.
Fourth top dressing carried out at the beginning of flowering: in 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of nitrophoska and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and granular fertilizer "Agricola-Rosa". Consumption of 3-4 liters per bush.
Fifth top dressing carried out after flowering: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Or in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of concentrated liquid fertilizer "Agricola-Rosa" and 2 tbsp. spoons of phosphorus-potassium mixture. These top dressings contribute to the accumulation of nutrients for the successful wintering of plants and the laying of new inflorescences. The consumption of the solution is 4-5 liters per bush.

Feeding roses with organic fertilizers

All of the above top dressing is easy for urban gardeners who can purchase modern and effective fertilizers in the store. But those who live in towns, villages and just far from the city use long-spread organic fertilizers (manure, manure, compost, etc.), and from mineral fertilizers - urea, nitrophoska, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. These mineral fertilizers can always be found.

First feeding carried out in the spring: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 liter of mushy mullein and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea. Spend 4-5 liters per bush or 1 m 2.
Second top dressing carried out during the budding period: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, superphosphate. The consumption of the solution is 3 liters per 1 m 2.
Third top dressing carried out during the flowering period (July): 0.5 liters of liquid bird droppings are diluted in 10 liters of water, as well as 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate, nitrophoska, pouring wood ash around the bush at the rate of 1 cup per 1 bush.
Fourth top dressing carried out before the start of lignification of the shoots (second half of August): for 10 liters of water take 2 tbsp. spoons of complete fertilizer, which contains, in addition to phosphorus and potassium, trace elements. Consumption of 5 liters of solution. You can take 10 liters of water for 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and superphosphate.

! When fertilizing in liquid form or, if the summer is rainy, dry, the specific conditions must always be taken into account.

If the weather is dry, hot, it is not enough rain to give only liquid fertilizers, and if it rains often, it is better to scatter dry fertilizers around the bush and lightly spud the bush.
Usually, with frequent and heavy rains, fertilizers are washed out in a significant amount from the soil layer around the rose bush, so the amount of fertilizer for top dressing can be increased by 1.5-2 times.
Also increase the rate of fertilizer applied to sandy soils. It is better to apply them dry mixed with organic fertilizers (humus, peat, sawdust).

Foliar top dressing of roses

Roses are fed not only from the roots, but also through the leaves. Foliar nutrition is very important for plant health, especially for roses that have an unhealthy appearance:pale matte fine

leaves and weak flower stems, as well as for young and already old bushes. Such top dressing can be done every 10 days.

There are special preparations, fertilizers designed to feed plants through the leaves. They contain all the necessary nutrients, which are added to the root dressing.

These are, for example, « Agricola Rosa» And (20 g is diluted in 10 liters of water), they are sprayed with leaves and flowers.

The drug is a wonderful highly effective plant growth stimulator and regulator - used in any phase of development, spraying on leaves, buds and flowers. Good results of the application of "Buton" are determined by its composition. The preparation contains a unique complex of growth substances. In "Bud" at the same time there are macro- and microelements necessary for feeding plants. One sachet of the drug (10 g) is dissolved in 5-10 liters of water. The consumption of the working solution is 1-3 liters per 10-15 m 2 occupied by flower crops. "Bud" is environmentally friendly, harmless to fish, bees and other insects.

"Agricola-Rosa" (and all of the above "Agricola") promotes the growth and development of the bush, the enlargement of flowers and peduncles (1 tablespoon is diluted in 10 liters of water), the solution is used both for spraying and for root dressing.

The mineral fertilizer urea is also used, diluting 1 tbsp. spoon in 10 liters of water.

Excellent stimulator of growth of roots - . A solution of "Heteroauxin" is poured over the soil in a pit prepared in the spring for planting roses. When propagating roses with cuttings, they are soaked before planting in such a solution for several days for the roots to appear.

! Foliar top dressing is done in the morning or in the evening if the weather is hot, and in the afternoon if it is cloudy.

! In order to avoid burns in sunny weather during the daytime, top dressing should not be done.

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Since ancient times, the rose has been considered the emblem of love and the standard of beauty. She deserves to be called the queen of flowers. The huge variety of garden roses that currently exists is entirely the merit of the long and painstaking work of breeders who, through crossing, achieved interesting forms, frost-resistant and remontant varieties. What could be more beautiful than weaving rose hedges or flowering shrubs planted along the paths in your summer cottage?

How to care for roses all year round, consider below.

Care of roses in spring, summer, autumn.

Spring.

Disease prevention. If you know that your roses in the garden are often susceptible to pests (for example, aphids, mites, leafworms, etc.), it is better to treat them prophylactically with an insecticidal agent.

Summer.

Autumn.

Preparing for winter. Caring for roses in the fall is the proper preparation of plants for the winter. It is necessary to stop loosening the soil, reduce watering, leave only weeding. It is desirable to carry out preventive methods from pests and various diseases with preparations containing copper.

There is so much to do in the gardener's calendar in the spring! Some of the works are related to the vegetable garden and orchard, others are related to ornamental plants. Already from early spring, garden princesses - roses - remind of themselves. Indeed, in order for these beauties to please with lush flowering and healthy foliage, it is necessary not only to remove the shelter from them in a timely manner. Roses in the spring will need proper pruning, mandatory feeding, and protection from diseases and pests. But for careful care at the very beginning of the garden season, these beauties will doubly thank you with the advent of summer. How to care for roses in spring, we will tell in the article.

All frostbitten, dry, damaged, diseased rose shoots should be cut to healthy tissue, just below the frostbite or lesion. © plantinfo

Removing cover from roses

Complex or simple shelters from roses must be removed gradually, step by step, just as they were created. As soon as the sun warms up, the snow melts, not earlier than in the first decade of April, start airing the bushes, opening up shelters on the north side for the day. Keep an eye on the weather, rose buds, look under shelters: in many ways, the weather and temperature in each individual year determine the specific dates. Carefully protect roses from aging, overheating under the increasingly active spring sun.

A few days later, after the temperature rises above -5°C, remove the first "layer" of the shelter - non-woven material. After another 2-3 days, when the temperature rises to 0 ° C, remove the spruce branches or the rest of the covering material, and after a few days - dry foliage. Let the bushes adjust and only then remove the hillock.

From the root neck, the place of vaccination, protection is removed last. Also, do not rush to start spring cleaning of roses and other procedures: start pruning and top dressing only 3-7 days after the final removal of shelters, but watch the buds: if they are swollen, it is better to speed up the process. The more “stages” you manage to break down the process of unwrapping roses, the more careful the adaptation, the better.

Pruning roses in spring

The spring direct grooming program for horticultural queens kicks off with sanitary clipping and thinning pruning. For these luxurious shrubs, it is imperative to strictly observe the deadlines: pruning is possible only until the moment when the buds begin to bloom on the roses. In order not to be late, it is better to schedule pruning immediately after the winter shelter is removed and carry it out within a week.

Roses that have successfully overwintered should be carefully examined, paying special attention to bushes planted only last fall. All frostbitten, dry, damaged, diseased shoots should be cut to healthy tissue, just below the frostbite or lesion.

Completely remove the wild shoots that appear below the place of budding (vaccination) in order to prevent the wilding of the rose in time. It is better to immediately carry out the removal of the oldest branches, from 4-5 years old, as well as thin shoots growing inside the bush. Treat wounds, large sections immediately with garden pitch or a special agent.

If the roses are frozen and seem to be dead, do not rush to dig up and throw away the bushes. Perhaps a few buds survived on the rose, and with the advent of spring, the shrub will still come to life, will release new shoots. © Jay W. Pscheidt

If sanitary cleaning is required for any roses, then pruning and shaping directly depend on the species, the group to which a particular bush belongs. Floribundas and hybrid tea roses are pruned in the spring, shortening all shoots by a third.

Shrub and flower bed roses of single flowering do not form in spring, and for multi-flowering roses, shoots are shortened by a third of their length. Ground cover roses are rarely pruned, every 4-5 years rejuvenating the bushes with a cut to 20-30 cm stumps. Remontant roses need only thinning, their skeletal shoots are cut 1 time in 3-4 years.

Climbing roses are pruned annually, leaving 3-5 buds on the side branches and be sure to remove shoots older than 5 years, thus constantly rejuvenating the rose. Standard roses are formed according to certain contours.

When carrying out spring pruning, one should strictly monitor the cleanliness and sharpness of the tools, treat them with disinfectants for each bush. Make cuts only above a well-developed kidney (by 0.5 cm) and only at an angle, obliquely.

Spring top dressing

The first dressing for roses of the year is best done immediately after sanitary pruning. For early spring fertilizer, timing is also important, or rather the stage of shrub development: the mixtures are applied after they swell, but even before the buds open.

Roses respond well to complex fertilizers, and to special mixtures for roses, and to nitrogen fertilizing (for example, ammonium nitrate). Use the standard full dose of fertilizer recommended by the manufacturer. Every 2-3 years, it is desirable to add organic matter to mineral dressing - manure or compost, embedding it in the soil or using it as mulch.

Roses respond well to both complex fertilizers and special mixtures for roses. © Dorling Kindersley

According to the classical agricultural technique for this shrub, fertilizers are applied to the soil around the new growth, mixing them into the soil. But today, two application strategies are used: dissolving in water for irrigation (application in liquid form) or incorporating into the soil.

The latter method is less effective, except during rainy and warm seasons. Yes, and more labor intensive. In order for top dressing introduced into the soil not to cause burns, it is necessary to water the soil abundantly for several hours before the procedure. Immediately after top dressing, the soil is shed again, conducting deep, high-quality watering.

Mulching under bushes in spring

Mulching is the only way to simplify rose care and save yourself a lot of trouble. They complete the procedure for the first application of fertilizers. It is necessary for more effective conservation of moisture in the soil, prevention of its compaction, violation of water and air permeability, and weed control. Thanks to mulching, you can forget about weeding and loosening, and distribute your time more efficiently.

For roses, a mulch made from shredded bark or mature compost is perfect. After watering, the soil is loosened, fluffed up, and then covered with an average layer of mulch (5-7 cm) from above.

Repair and installation of supports

After the roses are cut, the basic procedures are completed, it is worth taking care of installing new supports and inspecting the old bases for climbing roses. Pay attention to wooden structures that are best treated with protective compounds. As the shrubs grow and develop, they need to be tied up, raising the shoots above the ground.

Standard roses, after they are re-installed vertically, must also be immediately tied to the stakes.

Caring for old, feral and grafted roses

All roses that were budded last summer should be cut off the rootstocks (if signs of releasing new shoots are visible). It is worth paying attention to wild roses as early as possible: renewing, cardinal pruning will help save the bushes. All branches are cut to a height of 35-40 cm. And on old roses that do not grow well, it is better to stretch the pruning process for several years, affecting only a part of the old shoots.

Mulching is the only way to simplify rose care and save yourself a lot of trouble. © Antonio

Monitoring to prevent problems

From the middle of spring, and especially in May, it is worth doing inspections of rose bushes on the site as often as you can. At this time, aphids are especially active. But also for prevention, the timely start of the fight against fungal diseases, examinations of young foliage are of critical importance.

To prevent many problems, it is better to resort to the preventive spraying method, especially for varieties that are not particularly resistant to powdery mildew.

Mandatory preventive spring spraying is also considered for roses that have been sick in past years. Spray young foliage on roses with an insecticide or fungicide (special preparations for protecting roses or simple Bordeaux mixture, iron sulfate are fine), protecting the plants from possible infection. You can use biological products - infusions of tansy, nettle, etc.

Some gardeners prefer to treat pests and diseases as early as possible, immediately after the shelter is removed and before the buds open. But spraying can be carried out at a later date.

Preparing to plant new roses

If you plan to plant new roses in the spring, do not delay preparing the soil for planting: the sooner you dig up the soil and fertilize it, the better. Planting time will come only in the middle and end of spring, but the work done on time will allow you to simplify the busiest months of the year.

For roses, a standard technique is used: the soil is dug deep twice, scattering organic and mineral fertilizers over the ridge between procedures. Both manure and compost are perfect for this shrub, and either a self-prepared mixture, or nitrophoska, or special fertilizers for roses are used as a complete mineral fertilizer.

If you are planning to plant new roses in the spring, do not put off preparing the soil for planting. © David Austin

Spring planting of roses

For regions with severe winters, it is spring that is considered the optimal time for planting garden princesses, which makes it possible to achieve good rooting and ripening before the onset of cold weather. Spring planting of roses is carried out for seedlings with an open root system as early as possible, as soon as the soil warms up (up to + 10 ° C), and in containers - at almost any time.

Seedlings must be prepared before planting. Roses in containers are plentifully watered, with an open rhizome - soaked in water to saturate tissues with water. After soaking, the roots are cut, removing a third of the length (for damaged roots, pruning is carried out to healthy tissues). Shoots also need to be shortened: on average, 5-6 buds are left on strong shoots, 2-3 on medium ones, damaged or dry branches are completely removed. But it is better to take into account the type, the class of the rose.

Polyanthus and hybrid tea roses are pruned so that 2-3 buds remain on the shoots. 3-4 buds are left in floribunda, flower beds are shortened by a third, and ground cover roses are not cut at all.

Roses are planted in spacious, deep planting pits, carefully straightening the rhizome or carefully keeping the earthen ball of container roses. When planting, the grafting site of the bush is buried 5-7 cm below the soil line. They cover the rose with earth, gently tamping the soil, trying to avoid voids and taking into account shrinkage. Immediately after the procedure, the roses are watered abundantly, and the soil is mulched. If the landing is carried out early, to protect against night frosts, the bushes are spudded, removing the shelter only after the shoots start to grow.

Do you have many roses in your garden? How do you take care of them? Share your secrets in the comments to the article or on our Forum.

On the best part of our garden, but not everything is so simple.

Our queen is not only beautiful, but also very capricious, strict and whimsical, however, like all real queens, she requires constant attention.

She may not forgive even our little mistakes. Therefore, it is also very important for us to know what the queen of the garden loves and does not tolerate, how to monitor her appearance, how to feed and water her, how she breeds and how to prepare her for winter so that her ladyship does not freeze.

How take care of roses? This question is asked by all beginner gardeners.

Many of them are guided by the advice of friends and make many mistakes.

A competent one should take into account the recommendations of experienced gardeners - only in this case your beauties will delight with fragrance and exquisite appearance for up to 10 years (this is how much a rose grows in one place).

Events calendar

spring work
March	The beginning of the removal of winter shelters (from the end of March). If it's cold in March, move it to April.
April	Removal of winter shelters (complete removal until April 30). Prevention of bushes, sanitary and rejuvenating pruning of roses in spring, weed removal, loosening and mulching. Installation of supports and garter. Formative pruning of freshly planted seedlings.
May	Pruning for flowering, loosening, weed removal, fertilization, preventive treatment of soil and bushes from diseases.
summer care
June	Time of first bloom. The second preventive treatment for diseases. Removal of wilted flowers, watering, loosening, weeding. Fertilization after flowering.
July	Month of abundant flowering. Removal of faded flowers, watering, loosening. Fertilization (in the second half of the month).
August	Summer preventive pruning (removal of diseased shoots and wilted flowers), watering, loosening, weeding.
Autumn rose care
September	Fertilization (beginning of the month). Start preparing plants for winter. Termination of any top dressing and removal of up to 1/3 of all leaves, starting from the bottom of the bush (at the end of the month).
October	Sanitary pruning (after establishing a temperature of -5-7 ° C), the last watering and hilling. At the end of the month, the warming of plants and the construction of winter shelters.
November	Complete cleaning of all remaining foliage and debris. When snow falls, it is good to compact it near the bushes (to avoid penetration of rodents to roses).

rose care after winter begins with the cleaning of winter shelters. They need to be removed gradually, from the ends, proceeding to this when the threat of frost below -10 ° C has passed.

At night (and during the day with cold winds), the ends of the shelters must be closed again.

When to fully open roses in spring? As soon as stable warm weather is established, all covering material can be removed.

watering beauties

Rosette is an extremely moisture-loving plant, but watering care for roses depends on the phase of plant development. She needs the most abundant watering during the growing season (when the buds are pulled out, the growth of leaves and shoots and the first blooming of flowers begin).

At this time, the plant needs nutrients especially. And without water, fertilizers will not be absorbed, if there is little moisture, all top dressing will be ineffective.

For irrigation, use settled water heated in natural conditions. Cold water from a hose or a well will not work - roses can get sick from cool watering. Water your beauties once a week (twice in the hot season). Water consumption 5-10 liters (for ground-blooded), 10-15 liters (for climbing) per bush.

After watering, loosen the soil well. Otherwise, a dense crust will appear on the ground. She won't let the roots of our roses breathe.

But you can get rid of constant loosening with the help of mulching (leaf humus, chopped straw, rotted manure, tree bark or peat are ideal for mulch).

Autumn watering roses. In roses, the need for water decreases at this time. If the autumn turned out to be rainy, we stop watering in September.

In warm, dry weather, we water the roses once a week, but we reduce the volume of water by 3-5 liters.

A very important stage is pre-winter watering. Before the onset of cold weather, we need to water the roses very abundantly - at least 30 liters per bush.

Rose Care - Fertilization

All fertilizers can be divided into natural (organic) and mineral (obtained artificially). Mineral supplements must be combined with organic matter.

And don't overdo the fertilization. Their excess can weaken the plant.

Mineral supplements

The most important elements for the full care of roses: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and a number of other trace elements.

♦ Nitrogen. Thanks to him, roses grow well leaves and shoots. A rose especially needs it at the beginning of the growing season (spring), after pruning and before a new flowering. Nitrogen application: early May-early August.

♦ Potassium. Responsible for the general condition of the plant. It is especially necessary for a rose during flowering, budding and in preparation for winter. Introduction of potassium: June-October.

♦ Phosphorus. It helps the rose to grow strong shoots, develop a strong root system and ensures the quality of flowering. Phosphorus application: June-September. Please note that phosphorus can only be absorbed by the rose in combination with potassium.

Proper feeding of roses requires the addition of other trace elements: magnesium (responsible for the color saturation of flowers), iron, boron and manganese (increase the plant's resistance to diseases).

Before applying any top dressing, remember to water the plants - fertilizers in dry soil will not be effective in caring for roses.

First dressing. It is done in the spring during the swelling and growth of the kidneys. Fertilizers (nitrophoska, ammophos or diammophos) are introduced into the groove with a distance of 20-25 cm from the bush (consumption 30 g per bush).
Second feed. It is carried out in the first phase of budding. You can use the same top dressing or make a mixture of saltpeter (15 g), superphosphate (30 g) and potassium salt (20 g).
Third feed. It is carried out after the first flowering. In the second half of summer, choose complex fertilizers marked "autumn". Superphosphate, azofoska, potassium magnesia and potassium nitrate are good. Do such top dressing every 14-20 days until the end of August.
Fourth feed. It must be done in mid-September. It is best to use potassium magnesia.

Fertilizers for the rose of the first year of life. If you correctly made planting pits (with the introduction of a nutrient mixture there) - caring for roses in the first year of development will not require additional feeding.

And if the landing took place in ordinary garden soil - in the first year of life, feed the beauty with organic matter, mineral fertilizers are not yet required.

For a young rose, watering with a growth stimulator (Sodium Humate) will be useful.

Foliar fertilizer for roses. Roses can also receive food through the above-ground part. Spraying with nutrients is carried out in case of weakening of the plant.

In order not to burn the leaves, the nutrient solution is prepared two times weaker than regular top dressing. The procedure is carried out in the evening or early morning.

organic fertilizers

In the spring and at the beginning of the summer period, it would be ideal to use a liquid infusion of mullein.

In the second decade of the summer period and in autumn, wood ash is perfect for caring for roses.

You can use these two components: we take manure (2 kg) and ash (1 kg) for a bucket of water. For several days, insist and water the roses at the rate of ½ bucket per bush.

To eliminate the smell, the flooded soil is sprinkled with wood ash or chalk and loosened by 5 cm.

It is strictly forbidden to bring fresh bird droppings or cow dung to roses (especially after spring planting). For young seedlings, such fertilizer is detrimental. To get a good remedy, you should dilute 1 liter of mushy manure (litter) in 10 liters of water. The infusion is fermented for about 10 days.

Calcium is also very important for roses. It is found in chalk, dolomite flour, wood ash, slaked lime and organic matter.

Calcium neutralizes acidic soils and creates a favorable environment for the vital activity of bacteria that decompose nutrient additives.

Based on calcium, an organic fertilizer for the care of roses "Deoxidizer" has been created.

Rose shaping and pruning

How to prune roses. Several types of pruning are carried out for the rose, depending on the age of the seedling, plant variety and period.

◊ Sanitary pruning. First, we cut off all rotten, broken and diseased branches. Pruning is carried out from the side of the outer kidney, so that there are fewer branches growing deep into the bush.

Pay attention to the cut! In strong shoots, it is white, if the branches are frozen, the cut will be brown, in this case we cut it to a healthy place.

Then we cut off weak, unproductive and thin shoots.

Sanitary pruning is carried out in the spring after removing the shelters, in the summer if necessary and in the fall before the roses leave for winter rest.

◊ Rose shaping pruning. With this operation, we will give the bush a beautiful, symmetrical and lush look. It is especially important to carry out the formation in the first year of a flower's life after planting.

Saplings are usually sold already trimmed - they only need to remove unusable shoots. If the branches are long, we shorten them while maintaining several buds on each.

In summer, we pinch young roses over 3-4 leaves (this is especially important when caring for roses of hybrid tea varieties). The first buds also need to be removed.

In August, we stop the formation - a young rose can be given the opportunity to bloom in order to prevent the development of young branches - the young shoots will not have time to get stronger before the cold weather.

◊ Anti-aging pruning. In all roses, the main shoots weaken flowering with age. And every year fresh, young branches grow.

To provide roses with abundant flowering and a long life, rejuvenating pruning is carried out.

Old shoots are pruned before the growth of a young branch begins. You can remove all shoots older than 4 years (it is not advisable to leave them).

There are some differences in pruning different types of roses:

Hybrid Tea. Trimmed without fail. All old shoots are removed, the middle branches are cut in half, and the young ones are cut to 3-5 buds.
floribunda. This type requires a combined pruning. Shoots in the first year of life leave 3-5 buds, in subsequent years they are cut by one third of the length, three-year-old branches must be cut completely.
Climbing large-flowered. When caring for roses of climbing varieties, only five-year-old branches are removed.
Ramblers. These species bloom once on adult, overwintered shoots. They need to be pruned only after the end of flowering.

◊ Pruning for flowering. This procedure is aimed at ensuring good flowering. It is done taking into account the age of the escape.

Rose buds differ in the degree of maturity and ability to bloom. The upper ones give early, but not large flowers.

And with a strong pruning, short shoots awaken the lower buds to life, from which large, beautiful flowers bloom, suitable for cutting.

There are types of roses (for example, Ramblers) for which it is important to preserve the entire length of the branches. They bloom only on old, last year's shoots.

Pruning for flowering can be of three types:

Strong. With this method, one third of the height of the shoots is left. Such pruning is necessary to stimulate the growth of branches from the base of the bush. But you can not carry out a strong pruning every year - it weakens the plant.
Moderate. Such pruning leaves almost half of the shoot.
Weak. Cuts branches to 1/3 of the height of the shoot.

Pruning roses should be done with a sharp pruner. The cut is made at an angle of 45º 5-6 cm above the intended kidney.

The ideal cut is smooth, without cracks and burrs. Sometimes, after pruning, strong bushes from one bud begin to grow immediately 2-3 shoots. We leave the central one, and delete the side ones.

Treat the slices with garden pitch. This will protect open wounds from flies and decay. Garden var can be prepared in several ways:

In melted paraffin (6 parts), mix crushed rosin (3 parts). Bring the mixture to a boil and pour vegetable oil (2 parts) into it. Boil the resulting mass for about 10 minutes.
Separately, heat the rosin, nigrol and paraffin (1 kg each). Then mix the mixture into one and mix well.
In melted rosin (1 kg) add natural drying oil (230 ml) and liquid hot paraffin (5 kg).

Rose care for winter holidays

With this procedure, when caring for roses, you should not rush. With a gradual decrease in temperature in the plant, a concentration of internal forces occurs. Roses self-harden.

But, if you miss the deadlines for sheltering (this is a drop in temperature below -5 ° C), the shoots of roses will freeze from the inside, and rotting will begin in the spring.

The optimal time for sheltering roses for the winter: late October-early November (for the middle lane).

Not all roses need to be protected from frost. Old garden varieties (with the exception of Bourbon, Chinese and tea) do not need shelter even in very harsh winters.

Such species bloom once and quickly finish growth. Their wood has time to prepare for the cold on its own.

And you need to cover almost all modern species (with the exception of wrinkled rose hybrids).

Plant preparation

Our roses need to remove the entire lower part of the leaves and dry shoots. Cut stems. This must be done in advance so that the wounds heal.

We will pre-apply and strengthen the roots of top dressing:

In August. Nutrient solution: for 10 liters of water, superphosphate (25 g), potassium sulfate (10 g), borax (3.5 g), boric acid (2.5 g) per 4 sq. m.
In the first half of September. Nutrient solution: per 10 liters of water monophosphate or potassium sulfate (16 g) and superphosphate (15 g).

In September, the loosening of the soil and the formation of plants cease (so that young shoots do not develop). If they grow, they should be pinched.

All autumn buds must be carefully bent at the base (so that the rose does not exhaust its strength before wintering).

Caring for roses during this period consists in hilling with loose soil or leaf humus 10 cm high.

Additionally, you can insulate the roots of plants with a mixture of organic matter and fallen leaves with the addition of coniferous spruce branches.

The main shelter is done by the end of October-beginning of November.

Shelter methods

The most optimal method is air-dry. To do this, shields from boards in the form of a pitched roof are installed above the bushes. From above, the shields are covered with a film that creates a greenhouse effect.

If the winter is expected to be not particularly snowy, but cold, a layer of snow is poured on the shields.

The total height of the entire canopy will be about half a meter (so that cut rose bushes can be freely placed under it).

In a similar way, you can create a shelter in the form of a small greenhouse based on a wire frame. In this case, roses additionally need to be insulated with covering material (over the film).

Many varieties of roses need additional warming measures. Especially young seedlings.

♦ Hybrid Tea. For these roses, temperatures from -10 ° C are fatal. In the pre-winter care of roses, the bushes are additionally covered with light frames made of slats, which are sheathed with corrugated cardboard, burlap or polypropylene.

♦ Floribunda. They are more resistant to cold than tea leaves. Mature, healthy bushes can do without additional shelters. Young seedlings are placed in cardboard boxes without a bottom. Inside, the bush is covered with crumpled newspapers, old bark or wood chips.

♦ Climbing. Such varieties require shelter of shoots along the entire length. In young bushes, the whips are removed from the supports in advance (as long as they remain flexible).

This is best done during the October hilling period. The removed lashes are placed between coniferous spruce branches and covered with non-woven material.

If the whips have grown very large, they are not removed from the supports. Right along with the tapestries, they cover with burlap or wrap with thick paper for 2/3 of the length.

Our roses are ready for winter holidays. While they sleep and gain strength, let's get acquainted with our beauties.

This will be discussed in the next article.

See you soon, dear readers!