From this article you can learn how to make a wood milling machine with your own hands at home to perform basic operations with workpieces. The text outlines a step-by-step technology for creating a tool: an analysis of the design features of the device and all the components necessary for its installation, drawings with dimensions and detailed descriptions that will help create each of these elements and put them together.

Wood milling machines can have different purposes. Some devices are designed to perform only one operation, others are multifunctional. Buying a professional tool is an expensive pleasure, so many craftsmen resort to making a woodworking machine with their own hands. Most often, this router is used in small furniture workshops.

Routers are usually used to process wood along straight or curved contours. The working element in the design is the knife head, which carries out rotational movements. In most cases, this part is located vertically. There are many types of routers, each of which has its own design features.

The most popular types of devices:

• standard single-spindle (the spindle is located vertically);
• single-spindle designs, where the spindle or homemade milling table tilts;
• copy milling cutters with a top-mounted spindle;
• copying structures with a horizontal spindle (the tool is designed for processing wooden propellers).

Note! In all of the listed designs, except the last one, the material is fed manually.

Milling machine design: single-spindle designs

The design of a single-spindle machine includes a horizontal table with a pair of tongue-and-groove sockets designed for fixing guide rulers. It is mounted on a cast iron frame. Under the table there are slides that move along guides. They have a spindle mounted on a thrust bearing and a pair of bearings. At the top of this element there is another spindle - a plug-in one. It is designed for mounting cutting parts.

The slide with spindle can be raised if necessary. For this purpose, a bevel gear with a handwheel or a screw is used. A belt drive allows the spindle to move. Moreover, a counter drive, a motor or a motor shaft can be used for this.

To make such a wood router with your own hands, you need to take into account some nuances. In some cases, it is impossible to do without additional spindle reinforcement. This need arises if it is necessary to process workpieces of great height or if the part is subject to serious loads. To do this, you need to install and secure the upper stop on the machine table. This element is fixed on the bracket. To control the movement of the workpiece during the milling process, it is advisable to use a guide ring or ruler.

Machines in which the spindle or table tilts allow you to do a wider range of DIY woodworking jobs. In addition to standard operations, such designs allow for higher quality processing, obtaining a clean and uniform surface. This result can be achieved by processing wood at an angle, using cutters with a very small diameter. A device with a tilting spindle is much safer and more convenient.

The device of a homemade wood copying machine with an upper spindle placement

These devices are used to perform copying work. This does not require high power. Such designs allow milling and drilling to create openwork products.

The copier can replace three tools at once:

1. Fraser.
2. Drilling machine.
3. Jigsaw.

Wood processing is carried out using cutting mills. The spindle develops a large number of revolutions, due to which the processed surface is very clean.

A homemade woodworking machine can be used for various purposes:

• calibration of bosses;
• production of openwork frames;
• working out the walls of the ribs, etc.

The basis for this design is a frame made of cast iron. Its upper part is curved in the shape of a sickle. This area is used for mounting the electric motor.

Note! The bed serves as a connecting link on which all the elements of a homemade wood milling machine are installed. The stronger and more reliable its design, the better.

The engine is mounted on guides. Due to the system of levers, it can move up and down these elements. This section is set in motion by pressing the pedal, which is equipped with a special stopper. The rotor shaft of the engine is connected to the spindle, where the chuck with the tool is secured. This cartridge can be self-centering or American.

In the lower zone of the frame, a table is mounted on a movable bracket. This design can move vertically along the guides using a handwheel. There are other options for making a homemade wood milling machine with your own hands; a drawing of such a design involves vertical movement of the table also during operation by pressing the pedal. In such models, the electric motor and spindle remain stationary.

How to make a wood lathe with your own hands: drawings and technology

The easiest way to make a tool yourself at home is to construct a lathe or milling machine from a drill or electric motor removed from another tool. This process is not that complicated, so every master can handle it. To do this, you will need an electric motor, the power of which does not exceed 500 W, and available materials. A drill can also be used as a drive. Of course, making a lathe will require some skill.

To build the machine, the following elements are required:

• metal frame;
• electric motor;
• handyman;
• tailstock.

It wouldn’t hurt to get a drawing that will help you navigate the dimensions and correctly manufacture all the structural elements for its subsequent assembly.

How to make a homemade drilling machine with your own hands with a motor

First you need to prepare the electric motor shaft. To do this, a faceplate is installed on it; a steel center with a thread is also suitable. Installation of the second center is carried out in the tailstock tube. To make the frame, you will need a pair of corners measuring 5x3 cm, their length is 15 cm. A motor is attached to the frame using a bolted connection.

Note! The central part of the tailstock must coincide with the middle of the electric motor shaft.

At the next stage of making a homemade machine, you assemble the headstock yourself. This element is formed from a pair of horizontal and a pair of vertical corners. A pipe intended for the spindle is attached to it. You need to insert a bolt into it, the diameter of which is 1.2 cm. First, its head is sharpened at a right angle. Thus, the central part of the spindle is designated. After this, the headstock is installed on the bed. On the top post, which connects to the horizontal corners, it is necessary to secure the tube by welding.

To make a tool rest, you need to take a steel rod with a chamfer. This element must also have a hole that will be used to secure the support ruler. It is necessary to vertically weld the tube with the locking screw to the long angle. Then the tool rest rod is inserted into it.

The motor rotor on which the faceplate is attached will be used as the headstock spindle. You need to make several holes in it. A fork will be inserted in the central part. The holes along the edges are intended for fixing the part with screws.

How to make a wood lathe from a drill with your own hands

Having a workbench with a strong and flat working surface at hand, you can build a lathe without resorting to building a bed. The electric drill in this case will serve as a rotary drive and headstock. According to the simplest drawing of the machine, it is enough to fix this tool on the surface of the workbench through the neck. Clamps and a clamp are suitable for fixing.

This element is mounted opposite the drill. To create it, you can take two blocks of wood and an adjusting screw, sharpened at one end to a cone. If you intend to use the machine for processing massive wooden workpieces, then it is advisable to fix the stop on the table using clamps.

To make a tool with your own hands, inexpensive materials are enough. A drill-based lathe can be used to turn various parts:

• door handles;
• structural details of the staircase;
• decorative items, etc.

Note! The machine with a wooden clamp is suitable exclusively for processing wood blanks. It is not allowed to use such a tool for working with metal.

To expand the functionality of the tool, its design can be supplemented with attachments and other devices that can improve the quality of work.

Such improvements include:

• winding on transformers;
• applying a coloring composition over a rotating part to create patterns;
• applying spiral notches to the workpiece, etc.

Installing a special attachment in the form of a copier will allow you to use the machine to create a whole series of identical parts or products according to a template.

How to make a wood milling machine with your own hands: drawings, videos, instructions

1. Decide on the type of design and what tasks the tool will perform.
2. Decide on the materials that will be used for the construction of each element and the methods of fixation.
3. Calculate the technical and operational parameters necessary for full functioning.
4. Select drawings with dimensions of all parts for the CNC wood milling machine you are making yourself.

To work with complex elements, you will need a milling cutter with a high level of power and a large number of revolutions. Experts recommend giving preference to devices that have manual spindle adjustment and automatic stabilization. Features such as quick stop and soft start will be useful. In ideal designs, replacing the electric motor brushes does not require disassembling the body of the tool.

Related article:

Instructions for use. Accessories. Recommendations for choosing designs and a review of the best models.

The design of the milling cutter consists of the following elements:

• countertops;
• beds;
• spindle;
• parallel stop;
• feed skid;
• vacuum cleaner.

Helpful advice! The recommended motor power for the machine is 2 kW or more. A tool with lower performance will not be able to process hardwood workpieces.

Selection of materials for making a woodworking machine with your own hands

In order for the frame to withstand high dynamic loads, it is advisable to use metal as the material for its manufacture. The most suitable option is a pipe with a square or rectangular cross-section. It is allowed to use a massive metal corner.

The choice of such materials allows you to create a structure without using a welding machine. All elements are connected using bolts. The design is collapsible, which makes it easier to carry and transport. In addition, using the appropriate drawing of a milling table, you can create adjustable legs with your own hands. Movable supports allow you to adjust the machine horizontally.

The following materials are suitable for making countertops:

• multilayer plywood sheets;
• planed board;
• MDF, OSB or chipboard.

The tabletop must have a smooth surface. Any irregularities will affect the quality of work. In addition, it is necessary to eliminate all factors that could cause scratches during processing of workpieces.

When making a table for a router with your own hands, a flat surface can be achieved in several ways:

• finishing with plastic;
• careful fitting and sanding of planed boards;
• metal finishing.

To make a router with your own hands, you can use an asynchronous or commutator motor. The first option is quite unpretentious in operation and does not impose restrictions on the size of the cutters used. Disadvantages include high noise levels. A brushed motor is more affordable, but its brushes wear out faster.

How to make accessories for a router with your own hands

Homemade wood cutters can effectively process wood, but upon contact with hard materials, the cutting elements quickly become dull. Therefore, the range of applications of such parts is significantly limited.

To make a wood cutter with your own hands, you need to take a cylindrical workpiece and cut off half of its diameter in the area where the cutting zone will be located. After this, it is necessary to smooth out the resulting transition. You need to remove another 1/4 of the diameter from the cut part of the workpiece and perform a similar operation. Then you should give the processed area of ​​the cutter a rectangular shape. To do this you need to cut off its lower part. The thickness of the resulting working area should be 2-5 mm.

Helpful advice! To cut a metal workpiece for a cutter, you can use a drill or grinder, adapting this tool to perform this task. The cutting edge can be made using .

1. It is advisable to sharpen the cutting part at an angle of 7-10°. A sharper edge will cut much worse and will quickly lose its edge.
2. Using an angle grinder equipped with metal discs, you can give the cutting part of the cutter the required configuration. Diamond-coated needle files are also suitable for these purposes.
3. If the cutter has a complex configuration, you can flatten or bend it.

How to make a milling machine with your own hands

The simplest milling machine can be made according to the same principle as the turning tool described earlier. There are several ways to design the leading center of the structure.

In the first case, a steel tube with thin walls is mounted on the shaft. This method is considered the simplest, but it is not without its drawbacks. The operator will not be able to process workpieces whose diameter is smaller than the internal cross-section of the pipe. In addition, such a structure cannot be quickly dismantled if the need arises.

In the second case, the workpiece will be attached to the faceplate. To do this, you can use screws, for which you first need to make holes. This method also has disadvantages. The diameter of the workpieces being processed is limited by the size of the faceplate. To simplify this process, a special cartridge can be made, although in this case some restrictions cannot be avoided.

The back center, which will be used to secure long workpieces, must be installed on the tailstock. The electric motor is mounted on the frame. In general, the simplest designs of turning and milling tools are very similar. If you want to get a more functional device, you can make a CNC milling machine with your own hands, but this will require additional technical knowledge.

DIY table manufacturing technology for a router with drawings

There are several designs that can be used to mount a desktop CNC router. Tables can be stationary or portable. In addition, there is also an aggregate variety. This design allows you to expand the table surface for using a router.

Most often, craftsmen give preference to stationary structures with a metal frame. Dutch plywood is suitable as a material for the countertop.

Note! When making a table for a manual router with your own hands, you must take into account the height of the person who will work at it.

The list of necessary tools and materials includes:

• metal parts for the frame (pipe or corner);
• aluminum guides;
• axes for fixing the router;
• putty, as well as priming and painting compounds;
• self-tapping screws;
• furniture bolts (60x6 mm);
• hexagonal adjusting bolts with nuts (4 pcs.);
• Finnish laminated plywood with moisture-resistant properties (sheet thickness 1.8 cm);
• material for making a parallel stop (plywood or boards);
• drill and set of drills;
• screwdriver and electric jigsaw;
• welding machine;
• auxiliary devices (brushes, rags, spatula).

Having everything you need, you can easily make the design of a milling table with your own hands; video reviews of the technology, of which there are many on the Internet, will help you visually familiarize yourself with this process.

Do-it-yourself CNC machine manufacturing technology: drawings and assembly

A CNC router differs from a conventional tool in the presence of a program that controls its operation. In many videos, homemade machines are made on the basis of a beam with a rectangular cross-section, which is mounted on guides. A CNC router is no exception. During the installation of the supporting structure, it is advisable not to use welded joints; fixation is best done using bolts.

The fact is that welds are vulnerable to vibration, which is why over time the frame will be subject to gradual destruction. As a result of changing geometric dimensions, the equipment will lose its accuracy and processing quality. It is desirable that the table design includes the ability to move the tool vertically. A screw drive is suitable for these purposes. The rotational movement will be transmitted using a timing belt.

The vertical axis is the most important design element. To make it, you can use an aluminum plate. In this case, it is very important that the dimensional parameters of the axis correspond to the dimensions of the future machine.

Helpful advice! Using a muffle furnace, a vertical axis can be cast from aluminum according to the dimensions specified in the drawing.

The assembly of the machine should begin with the installation of two stepper-type electric motors. They are installed behind the vertical axis directly on the body. One motor will control the horizontal movements of the milling head, the other will control the vertical movements. Then you need to move on to installing the remaining components of the structure.

The rotational motion will be transmitted to the key elements of the tool using belt drives. Before connecting software control to a finished router, you must check its functionality and, if there are any shortcomings, eliminate them. Many craftsmen use video reviews to assemble a machine with their own hands, where this process is discussed in detail.

Equipment for creating a CNC milling machine for wood with your own hands

To create a CNC milling machine at home, be sure to use stepper motors. They provide the ability to move the tool in 3 planes. To create a homemade machine, the electric motors present in a dot matrix printer are ideal. It is necessary to ensure that the motors have sufficient power. In addition to the motors, steel rods will be required.

A dot matrix printer only has a couple of motors, but to create a router you will need three. Therefore, you will need several old printing devices. It is desirable that the motors have 5 control wires. Thanks to this, the functionality of the tool increases.

Other engine parameters are also important:

• degree of rotation per step;
• winding resistance;
• voltage level.

To assemble the drive you will need a stud and a nut. The size of these parts is selected taking into account the drawing. To secure the motor shaft and pin, you can use a thick rubber winding from an electrical cable. A nylon bushing is suitable as a retainer and a screw should be inserted into it. As an auxiliary tool, you can use a drill and a file.

The tool will be controlled by software. A mandatory element of the machine is the LPT port, which provides connection of the control system to the milling cutter via electric motors. The quality of the components used to assemble the machine determines its service life and the quality of the technological operations performed. Therefore, the selection of parts should be approached carefully. When all the electronic components of the machine are installed and connected, all that remains is to download the drivers and software.

How much will it cost to buy a CNC milling machine: tool prices

If almost any craftsman can handle the manufacture of a manual milling cutter and a stationary table, then assembling a CNC machine will seem like an impossible task for many. Moreover, homemade designs do not have the capabilities that a factory-made tool can offer.

Helpful advice! If you intend to use a router to perform complex woodworking, it is better to give preference to factory designs that are precisely calibrated and have many functions.

Prices for them vary depending on functionality, table size, power, manufacturer and other parameters.

Average prices for factory-produced CNC milling machines:

Machine name	Table length, mm	price, rub.
LTT-K0609 (LTT-K6090A)	900	228970
WoodTec MH-6090		246780
LTT-P6090		329120
RJ 1212	1300	317000
WoodTec MH-1212		347350
RUIJIE RJ 1200		399200
WoodTec MH 1325	2500	496350
WoodTec MH-1625		540115
WoodTec VH-1625		669275
RJ 2040	3000	1056750
WoodTec VH-2030		1020935
WoodTec VH-2040		1136000

Assembling a machine with software is a rather complex process that requires certain skills and knowledge. This work cannot be done without a suitable drawing and the necessary parts. Items such as signal cables, stepper motors, and microprocessor boards can be removed from older equipment or purchased online. Many online stores offer ready-made kits for assembling milling machines for home workshops.

Making a wood milling machine with your own hands: video instructions

ELECTROSPETS

ELECTROSPETS

Electrical equipment of metalworking machines,
electrical circuit diagram for controlling the electric drive of a vertical milling machine

Schematic electrical diagram of vertical milling electric drive control
machine (Fig. 4.5-4)

Purpose. To control the operating modes and EO of the model 654 milling machine.
Notes:
1. The machine spindle is driven into rotational motion by a motor with a power of 13 kW at an angular speed of 141 rad/s through a gearbox with 18 steps and a speed change from 2.5 to 125 rad/s. Switching speeds is manual.
2. Longitudinal and transverse movement of the table in the feed speed control range from 10 to 1000 mm/min and vertical movement of the spindle head in the control range from 4 to 400 mm/min - from a direct current (DC) motor through the feed box with stepless electrical angular control speeds in the range of 10:1. Electromechanical speed control provides working feeds and rapid movements of the table and spindle head of the machine.
3. Changing the direction of movement is carried out by electromagnetic clutches built inside the feed box housing. Electromagnetic clutches provide both independent activation of all three movements, and their simultaneous action.
Basic elements of the scheme.
DSCH, DS, DO- drive motors with a squirrel-cage spindle rotor,
lubrication pump, cooling pump.
DP- DC motor for feed movements.
MU- magnetic amplifier for power supply and regulation of DP.
Notes:
1. The three-phase magnetic amplifier has windings:
- working (w р), connected through diodes (D1... Db);
- controls (w y) included on the speed controller (PC).
2. Feedback is provided in two versions:
- negative voltage feedback (Uon) at the armature terminals;
- positive feedback on the current (Upt) received from the rectifier (VP2) connected to the current transformer (CT)
CABG, CP and CT- spindle contactors, starting and braking.
ROP and RN- relay for lack of power in the motor field winding
DC (OVDP) and voltage relay on the DC armature.
RM- maximum relay, to limit the armature current to the value Iа=2Inom
RP1- intermediate relay, for multiplying contacts of adjustment circuits.
RP2- intermediate relay, for switching circuits for rapid installation movement of the table or spindle head of the machine.
VSh, VP2, VPZ- rectifiers for braking and control circuits,
excitement.
Tr.-braking circuit transformer.
Controls.
VS- spindle switch, to select the direction of rotation (“left” - “off” - “right”).
Book P1 and Book P2- “start” buttons DS and DP.
Book B and Book T- “fast” and “jog” buttons to control the rapid movement of the table (spindle head) and in jog mode.
Kn.CI and Kn.C2- “stop” buttons DS and DP.
Control modes.
Working (semi-automatic) - from Kn.P1, Kn.GO and VSh.
Adjustment - from Kn.T.

And so, as part of this instructional article, I want you, together with the author of the project, a 21-year-old mechanic and designer, to make your own. The narration will be conducted in the first person, but know that, to my great regret, I am not sharing my experience, but only freely retelling the author of this project.

There will be quite a lot of drawings in this article., the notes to them are made in English, but I am sure that a real techie will understand everything without further ado. For ease of understanding, I will break the story into “steps”.

Preface from the author

Already at the age of 12, I dreamed of building a machine that would be capable of creating various things. A machine that will give me the ability to make any household item. Two years later I came across the phrase CNC or to be more precise, the phrase "CNC milling machine". After I found out that there are people who can make such a machine on their own for their own needs, in their own garage, I realized that I could do it too. I must do it! For three months I tried to collect suitable parts, but did not budge. So my obsession gradually faded.

In August 2013, the idea of ​​​​building a CNC milling machine captured me again. I had just graduated from a bachelor's degree in industrial design at university, so I was quite confident in my abilities. Now I clearly understood the difference between me today and me five years ago. I learned how to work with metal, mastered techniques for working with manual metalworking machines, but most importantly, I learned how to use development tools. I hope this tutorial inspires you to build your own CNC machine!

Step 1: Design and CAD model

It all starts with thoughtful design. I made several sketches to get a better feel for the size and shape of the future machine. After that I created a CAD model using SolidWorks. After I modeled all the parts and components of the machine, I prepared technical drawings. I used these drawings to make parts on manual metalworking machines: and.

Frankly speaking, I love good, convenient tools. That is why I tried to make the maintenance and adjustment operations of the machine as simple as possible. I placed the bearings in special blocks in order to be able to quickly replace them. The guides are accessible for maintenance, so my car will always be clean when the work is completed.

Files for downloading “Step 1”

dimensions

Step 2: Bed

The bed provides the machine with the necessary rigidity. A movable portal, stepper motors, a Z axis and a spindle, and later a working surface will be installed on it. To create the supporting frame I used two 40x80mm Maytec aluminum profiles and two 10mm thick aluminum end plates. I connected all the elements together using aluminum corners. To strengthen the structure inside the main frame, I made an additional square frame from profiles of a smaller section.

In order to avoid dust getting on the guides in the future, I installed protective aluminum corners. The angle is mounted using T-nuts, which are installed in one of the profile grooves.

Both end plates have bearing blocks for mounting the drive screw.

Support frame assembly

Corners for protecting guides

Files for downloading “Step 2”

Drawings of the main elements of the frame

Step 3: Portal

The movable portal is the executive element of your machine; it moves along the X axis and carries the milling spindle and Z axis support. The higher the portal, the thicker the workpiece that you can process. However, a high portal is less resistant to the loads that arise during processing. The high side posts of the portal act as levers relative to the linear rolling bearings.

The main task that I planned to solve on my CNC milling machine was the processing of aluminum parts. Since the maximum thickness of the aluminum blanks that suit me is 60 mm, I decided to make the portal clearance (the distance from the working surface to the upper cross beam) equal to 125 mm. I converted all my measurements into a model and technical drawings in SolidWorks. Due to the complexity of the parts, I processed them on an industrial CNC machining center; this additionally allowed me to process chamfers, which would be very difficult to do on a manual metal milling machine.

Files for downloading “Step 3”

Step 4: Z Axis Caliper

For the Z axis design, I used a front panel that attaches to the Y axis motion bearings, two plates to reinforce the assembly, a plate to mount the stepper motor, and a panel to mount the milling spindle. On the front panel I installed two profile guides along which the spindle will move along the Z axis. Please note that the Z axis screw does not have a counter support at the bottom.

Downloads “Step 4”

Step 5: Guides

Guides provide the ability to move in all directions, ensuring smooth and precise movements. Any play in one direction can cause inaccuracy in the processing of your products. I chose the most expensive option - profiled hardened steel rails. This will allow the structure to withstand high loads and provide the positioning accuracy I need. To ensure the guides were parallel, I used a special indicator while installing them. The maximum deviation relative to each other was no more than 0.01 mm.

Step 6: Screws and Pulleys

Screws convert rotary motion from stepper motors into linear motion. When designing your machine, you can choose several options for this unit: a screw-nut pair or a ball screw pair (ball screw). The screw-nut, as a rule, is subjected to more frictional forces during operation, and is also less accurate relative to the ball screw. If you need increased accuracy, then you definitely need to opt for a ball screw. But you should know that ball screws are quite expensive.

Information about the manufacturer of the cantilever milling machine 6р12, 6р12Б

Manufacturer of a series of universal milling machines 6р12, 6р12Б, founded in 1931.

The plant specializes in the production of a wide range of universal milling machines, as well as milling machines with DRO and CNC, and is one of the most famous machine-tool enterprises in Russia.

Since 1932 Gorky Milling Machine Plant is engaged in the production of machine tools and is an expert in the development and production of various metal-cutting equipment.

Universal milling machines of the P series have been produced by the Gorky Milling Machine Plant (GZFS) since 1972. The machines are similar in design, widely unified and are a further improvement of similar machines of the M series.

Today, console milling machines are produced by the company LLC "Stanochny Park", founded in 2007.

History of production of machine tools by the Gorky plant, GZFS

IN 1972 6Р 6Р12 , 6Р12Б , 6Р13 , 6Р13Б , 6Р13Ф3 , 6Р82 , 6R82G , 6Р82Ш , 6Р83 , 6R83G , 6Р83Ш .

IN 1975 year, the following copying cantilever-milling machines were put into production: 6Р13К.

IN 1978 year, copying console-milling machines were launched into production 6Р12К-1, 6Р82К-1.

IN 1985 series launched into production 6T-1 cantilever milling machines: 6T12-1 , 6Т13-1 , 6T82-1 , 6T83-1 And GF2171 .

IN 1991 series launched into production 6T cantilever milling machines: 6T12 , 6Т12Ф20 , 6T13 , 6Т13Ф20 , 6T13F3 , 6T82 , 6T82G , 6T82sh , 6T83 , 6T83G , 6Т83Ш .

6P12 vertical cantilever milling machine. Purpose, scope

A cantilever milling machine with a vertical quill spindle has a table that moves crosswise in a horizontal plane, which is mounted on a console post that moves vertically along guides.

The 6P12 machine differs from the 6P13 machine in the installed power of the main movement and feed motors, the dimensions of the working surface of the table and the amount of table movement. High-speed machines 6Р12Б, in contrast to machines 6Р12, have an increased range of spindle speeds and table feeds and increased power of the main movement engine.

The 6P12 vertical cantilever milling machine is designed for processing all kinds of parts made of steel, cast iron, difficult-to-cut and non-ferrous metals, mainly with face and end mills. The machines can process vertical, horizontal and inclined planes, grooves, corners, frames, and curved surfaces.

For processing curved surfaces, the machine is equipped with a special copying device. Processing of curved surfaces is carried out using copiers, the contour of which is felt by the tip of an electric contact sensor for table movement.

Coolant is supplied by the engine of a centrifugal vertical pump through pipelines through a nozzle to the tool.

The rotating spindle head of the machines is equipped with a mechanism for manual axial movement of the spindle sleeve, which allows processing of holes whose axis is located at an angle of up to ±45° to the working surface of the table. The drive power and high rigidity of the machines allow the use of cutters made of high-speed steel, as well as tools equipped with plates made of hard and super-hard synthetic materials.

The machines are used in single and serial production.

Machine accuracy class N according to GOST 8-77.

Russian and foreign analogues of the 6Р12 machine

FSS315, FSS350MR, (FSS450MR)- 315 x 1250 (400 x 1250) - manufacturer Gomel Machine Tool Plant

VM127M- (400 x 1600) - manufacturer Votkinsk Machine-Building Plant GPO, Federal State Unitary Enterprise

6D12, 6K12- 320 x 1250 - manufacturer Dmitrov milling machine plant DZFS

X5032, X5040- 320 x 1320 - manufacturer Shandong Weida Heavy Industries, China

FV321M, (FV401)- 320 x 1350 (400 x 1600) - manufacturer Arsenal J.S.Co. - Kazanlak, Arsenal AD, Bulgaria

Landing and connecting bases for milling machine 6Р12Б

Landing and connecting bases for milling machine 6р12Б

6Р12 General view of a vertical cantilever milling machine

Photo of a vertical cantilever milling machine 6р12

6Р12 Arrangement of components of a cantilever milling machine

Location of components of the 6р12 milling machine

1. Bed - 6Р12-1
2. Rotary head - 6Р12-31
3. Gearbox - 6М12П-3
4. Feed box - 6Р82-4
5. Switch box - 6Р82-5
6. Console - 6Р12-6
7. Table and slide - 6Р82Г-7
8. Electrical equipment - 6Р12-8

Location of controls for the 6P12 cantilever milling machine

List of controls for the 6P12 cantilever milling machine

1. "Stop" button (duplicate)
2. “Spindle Start” button (duplicate)
3. Spindle speed indicator arrow
4. Spindle speed indicator
5. “Quick table” button (duplicate)
6. "Spindle pulse" button
7. Light switch
8. Rotate the head
9. Spindle sleeve clamp
10. Automatic cycle sprocket
11. Handle for turning on longitudinal table movements
12. Table Clamps
13. Handwheel for manual longitudinal movement of the table
14. "Quick table" button
15. "Spindle start" button
16. "Stop" button
17. Switch for manual or automatic control of longitudinal table movement
18. Flywheel for manual lateral movements of the table
19. Limb of the table transverse movement mechanism
20. Vernier ring
21. Handle for manual vertical movement of the table
22. Button for fixing the feed switch fungus
23. Feed switch mushroom
24. Table feed indicator
25. Table feed indicator arrow
26. Handle for turning on the transverse and vertical table feeds
27. Clamping the slide on the console guides
28. Handle for turning on longitudinal movements of the table (duplicate)
29. Handle for turning on the transverse and vertical table feed (duplicate)
30. Handwheel for manual longitudinal movement of the table (duplicate)
31. Spindle rotation direction switch "left-right"
32. Cooling pump switch "on off"
33. Input switch "on-off"
34. Spindle speed shift knob
35. Switch for automatic or manual control and round table operation
36. Clamping the console on the frame
37. Spindle sleeve extension handwheel
38. Clamping the head on the frame

Kinematic diagram of the 6P12 cantilever milling machine

Kinematic diagram of a 6р12 cantilever milling machine

The kinematic diagram is given to understand the connections and interactions of the main elements of the machine. The numbers of teeth (g) of the gears are indicated on the callouts (the asterisk indicates the number of starts of the worm).

The main movement is driven by a flange electric motor through an elastic coupling.

The spindle speed is changed by moving three toothed blocks along the splined shafts.

The gearbox provides the spindle with 18 different speeds.

The feed drive is carried out from a flange electric motor mounted in the console. By means of two three-crown blocks and a movable gear wheel with a cam clutch, the feed box provides 18 different feeds, which are transmitted through a ball safety clutch to the console and then, when the corresponding cam clutch is engaged, to the screws of longitudinal, transverse and vertical movements.

Accelerated movements are obtained when the high-speed clutch is turned on, the rotation of which is carried out through intermediate gears directly from the feed electric motor.

The clutch is interlocked with the working feed clutch, which eliminates the possibility of their simultaneous activation.

Graphs explaining the structure of the machine feed mechanism are shown in Fig. 6 and 7. For machines of models 6Р12Б (Fig. 7) vertical feeds are 3 times less than longitudinal ones.

bed is the base unit on which the remaining components and mechanisms of the machine are mounted.

The frame is rigidly fixed to the base and fixed with pins.

Drawing of the rotating head of a 6р12 cantilever milling machine

Swivel head(Fig. 8) is centered in the annular recess of the bed neck and is attached to it with four bolts that fit into a single groove in the bed flange.

The spindle is a double-support shaft mounted in a retractable sleeve. The axial play in the spindle is adjusted by grinding rings 3 and 4. Increased play in the front bearing is eliminated by grinding half rings 5 ​​and tightening the nut.

The adjustment is carried out in the following order:

• the spindle sleeve extends;
• flange 6 is dismantled;
• half rings are removed;
• a screw plug is removed from the right side of the head body;
• through the hole, unscrewing screw 2 unlocks nut 1;
• Nut 1 is locked with a steel rod. By turning the spindle by the nut, the nut is tightened and this moves the inner race of the bearing. After checking the play in the bearing, the spindle is run in at maximum speed. When operating for an hour, the heating of the bearings should not exceed 60° C;
• the size of the gap between the bearing and the spindle collar is measured, after which the half rings 5 ​​are ground to the required amount;
• the half rings are put in place and secured;
• Flange 6 is screwed in.

To eliminate radial play of 0.01 mm, the half rings must be ground by approximately 0.12 mm.

Rotation is transmitted to the spindle from the gearbox through a pair of bevel and a pair of cylindrical gears mounted in the head.

Lubrication of the bearings and gears of the rotary head is carried out from the frame pump, and the lubrication of the spindle bearings and the sleeve moving mechanism is carried out by extrusion.

Gearbox mounted directly in the frame body. The connection of the box to the electric motor shaft is carried out by an elastic coupling, allowing misalignment in the motor installation of up to 0.5-0.7 mm.

The gearbox can be inspected through the window on the right side.

The gearbox is lubricated by a plunger pump (Fig. 9), driven by an eccentric. Pump capacity is about 2 l/min. Oil is supplied to the pump through a filter. From the pump, the oil flows to the oil distributor, from which it is discharged through a copper tube to the pump control eye and through a flexible hose to the rotary head. The gearbox elements are lubricated by splashing oil coming from the holes in the oil distributor tube located above the gearbox.

Gearbox allows you to select the required speed without sequentially passing through intermediate steps.

Rack 19 (Fig. 10), moved by shift handle 18, through sector 15 through fork 22 (Fig. 11) moves the main roller 29 with shift disc 21 in the axial direction.

The shift disk can be turned by the speed indicator 23 through the bevel gears 28 and 30. The disk has several rows of holes of a certain size located against the pins of the racks 31 and 33.

The racks engage in pairs with gear 32. A shift fork is attached to one of each pair of racks. When moving the disk by pressing on the pin of one of the pair, reciprocating movement of the slats is ensured.

In this case, the forks at the end of the disk stroke occupy a position corresponding to the engagement of certain pairs of gears. To eliminate the possibility of hard stop of the gears when switching, the pins of 20 racks are spring-loaded.

Fixation of the dial when choosing a speed is ensured by ball 27, which slides into the groove of sprocket 24.

The spring 25 is adjusted by the plug 26, taking into account the clear fixation of the dial and the normal force when turning it.

Handle 18 (see Fig. 10) is held in the on position by spring 17 and ball 16. In this case, the handle tenon fits into the groove of the flange.

Correspondence of speeds to the values ​​​​indicated on the indicator is achieved by a certain position of the bevel wheels along the mesh. Correct engagement is established by cores at the ends of the mating tooth and cavity or by setting the pointer to the speed position of 31.5 rpm and the disk with forks to the speed position of 31.5 rpm (for machine models 6Р12Б the corresponding speed is 50 rpm) . The gap in the engagement of the conical pair should not be more than 0.2 mm, since the disk can rotate up to 1 mm due to this.

The gearbox is lubricated from the gearbox lubrication system by splashing oil.

Feed box for milling machine 6Р12, 6Р12Б

Photo of the feed box of the 6р12 cantilever milling machine

Electrical circuit diagram of the 6P12 milling machine

Electrical circuit diagram of a 6р12 milling machine

Notes

• * - only for machines 6Р82Ш, 6Р83Ш
• ** - to the electrical diagram of the tool clamping mechanism
• *** - only for machines 6Р13Б

Electrical equipment of the 6Р12 machine

Supply network: Voltage 380 V, alternating current, frequency 50 Hz

Control circuits: Voltage 110 V, alternating current

Control circuits: Voltage 65 V, DC current

Local lighting: voltage 24 V.

Rated current (sum of rated currents of simultaneously operating electric motors) 20 A.

The rated current of the protective device (fuses, circuit breaker) at the power supply point is 63 A.

Electrical equipment is made according to the following documents: circuit diagram 6Р13.8.000Э3. connection diagram of the product R13.8.000E4.

Cantilever milling machine 6P12. Video.

Technical characteristics of the cantilever milling machine 6Р12

Parameter name	6N12	6M12	6Р12	6T12
Basic machine parameters
Accuracy class according to GOST 8-71 and GOST 8-82	N	N	N	N
Table surface dimensions, mm	1250 x 320	1250 x 320	1250 x 320	1250 x 320
Maximum mass of the workpiece, kg		250	250	400
Distance from the end of the spindle to the table, mm	30..400	30..400	30..450	30..450
Distance from the spindle axis to the vertical guides of the bed (overhang), mm	350	350	350	380
Desktop
Maximum longitudinal travel of the table by hand (along the X axis), mm	700	700	800	800
Maximum lateral movement of the table by hand (along the Y axis), mm	240/ 260	240/ 260	250	320
Maximum vertical travel of the table by hand (along the Z axis), mm	370	370	420	420
Limits of longitudinal table feeds (X), mm/min	40..2000	12..1250	12,5..1600	12,5..1600
Limits of table cross feeds (Y), mm/min	27..1330	12..1250	12,5..1600	12,5..1600
Limits of vertical table feeds (Z), mm/min	13..665	8,3..416,6	4,1..530	4,1..530
Number of feeds longitudinal/transverse/vertical	18	18	22	22
Speed ​​of fast longitudinal movements of the table (along the X axis), m/min	4	3	4	4
Speed ​​of fast transverse movements of the table (along the Y axis), m/min	4	3	4	4
Speed ​​of fast vertical movements of the table (along the Z axis), m/min	1	1	1,330	1,330
Spindle
Spindle speed, rpm	63..3150	31,5..1600	40..2000	31,5..1600
Number of spindle speeds	18	18	18	18
Spindle quill movement, mm	70	70	70	70
Milling spindle taper	№3	№3	№3	№3
Spindle end GOST 24644-81, row 4, version 6				50
Milling spindle hole, mm	29	29	29
Rotate the spindle head right and left, degrees	±45	±45	±45	±45
Machine mechanics
Feed stops (longitudinal, transverse, vertical)	Eat	Eat	Eat	Eat
Blocking manual and mechanical feeds (longitudinal, transverse, vertical)	Eat	Eat	Eat	Eat
Blocking separate feed switching	Eat	Eat	Eat	Eat
Spindle braking	Eat	Eat	Eat	Eat
Overload safety clutch	Eat	Eat	Eat	Eat
Automatic intermittent feed	Eat	Eat	Eat	Eat
Electrical equipment, drive
Number of electric motors on the machine	3	3	3	4
Main motion drive electric motor, kW	7	7,5	7,5	7,5
Feed drive electric motor, kW	1,7	2,2	2,2	3,0
Tool clamping motor, kW	-	-	-	0,25
Coolant pump electric motor, kW	0,12	0,12	0,12	0,12
Total power of all electric motors, kW		9,825	9,825	1,87
Dimensions and weight of the machine
Machine dimensions (length width height), mm	1745 x 2260 x 2000	2395 x 1745 x 2000	2305 x 1950 x 2020	2280 x 1965 x 2265
Machine weight, kg	3000	3000	3120	3250