Do-it-yourself bow from improvised materials at home. In the footsteps of Robin Hood: how to make a bow with your own hands Bow with your own hands sizes

Let's start with making a bow handle. Immediately make a reservation that the materials of manufacture depend on the tension of the bowstring. If the tension force is up to 10 kg., Then the handle can be made from a solid wooden block 60x40x400, beech or birch (pine is not suitable for these purposes).

Let's start by making a bow handle. Immediately make a reservation that the materials of manufacture depend on the tension of the bowstring. If the tension force is up to 10 kg., Then the handle can be made from a solid wooden block 60x40x400, beech or birch (pine is not suitable for these purposes).

A beautiful handle is obtained from a pair of 20 mm plywood sheets glued with epoxy. After you have smeared the surface with epoxy, compress the plates in clamps. And that leaves a thickness of 40 mm.

It is only necessary to use bakelite (waterproof) plywood. It is glued with something like epoxy and it is reliable. Plain plywood is not very suitable for these purposes (it cracks).

After that, we proceed to a rough selection of shapes with a semicircular, sharp chisel (it was corrected 2 times, the epoxy strongly "plants" the tool).

A very good helper in this matter is a flat, semi-circular rasp for rough surface treatment, giving a rough shape.

Then the handle is processed with a coarse sandpaper, then a fine one, and at the final stage, zeroing.

Don't forget to drill holes for the M8 bolts to mount the bow limbs.

Under the bolts between the handle and the shoulders of the bow, it is advisable to place a leather gasket (from old women's boots or jackets).

When the handle is brought to mind, it can be covered with stain and ship varnish. Plywood, as you know, consists of layers, which, when the material is selected, play on the handle. Pretty funny effect.

So that you don’t have any questions about how to make a handle for a collapsible bow, I will give a drawing (a 10x10 mm grid is applied on the drawing.). You can redraw it on graph paper.

I want to remind you that these materials for the manufacture of the handle are applicable in the case of the manufacture of a bow with a string tension force of up to 10 kg. If you use such a handle on more powerful bows, then there is a risk that the handle will not just break, but explode into splinters and injure you.

Therefore, for more powerful bows, it is necessary to make reinforced handles from a set of woods according to the sandwich principle, as, for example, in this version - the base is beech, the "filling" is maple, walnut and mahogany (for elegance). You can use any other dense tree, while the thickness of the filling does not play a special role, the main thing is that gluing is present.

All layers are coated with epoxy and clamped in clamps until completely dry. Clamps must be placed every 5-10 cm so that no voids form between the layers.

It turns out, such blanks, which in the future will be handles for a collapsible bow with a stronger tension of the bowstring.

And lovers of beauty With the presence of straight arms and a good carpentry tool, they can make not only a strong but also a beautiful handle.

Now let's start making the shoulders of the bow. The most suitable for these purposes are "elastic elements", which are used for the manufacture of sofas and beds. It is plywood, where all layers go along, with dimensions: 1200x50x12 mm, but 8 mm thick lamellas come across. and 700mm long.

Shoulder dimensions 700 mm long, 30 mm near the handle 25 mm near the bowstring mount, while the total length of the bow will be 1600 mm. A shorter bow length is not worth making, as the risk of breaking the shoulders increases. The best option is when the length of the bow matches the height of the shooter.

If you got lamellas 12 mm thick. it is enough to saw them along obliquely, then attach to each other and process so that they are symmetrical to each other. The pulling force of such a bow will be about 10-12 kg.

If you have lamellas with a thickness of 8 mm at your disposal, then their use for a bow will be very weak, so they will have to be strengthened.

To do this, we take two lamellas and glue them together with epoxy (we add a little less hardener so that the shoulders do not crack). But the best results are obtained by PVA glue "Moment" D-2, in red bottles, from the manufacturer Pritt Henkel (sold in hardware stores and construction markets).

Be sure to tighten with clamps along the entire length and wait for drying. As a result, we get lamellas with a thickness of 16mm. It may seem to many that the shoulders are from 16mm. the slats will be very tough because you simply cannot bend it in your hands. But when you assemble the bow completely, you will have no doubts about the flexibility of the lamellas. Just keep in mind, with such rigidity of the shoulders, it is advisable to use reinforced handle.

We saw the glued lamellas obliquely and get the future shoulders.

We estimate to the handle, and see how it all will look.

From scraps of lamellas we make a shelf for a bowstring. We cut out a couple of plates slightly wider than the female shoulders (for the possibility of further processing), attach the plate to the shoulder and drill two through holes, after which we generously lubricate everything with glue, and insert dowels into the holes on the glue. We squeeze with clamps and leave to dry for a day. It is best to remove the remaining glue with a rag in advance, so that when they dry, you do not fool around with their removal.

We give symmetry to both shoulders. For accuracy, with clamps, we squeeze the shoulders together and process the sides.

We outline the shape of the shelf for the bowstring. The form can be any, as your imagination allows.

Making a bow with your own hands is not difficult, the main thing is to have a general idea of ​​​​how to make it. There are a lot of methods, today we will analyze three main ones. If you have little time or no desire to mess around for a long time, then we have information for you. Also if you want to make it from skis or spend at least half a year on making it. In a word, everyone will choose the right option for themselves.

Beginning archers would like to say that the bowstring should not stretch, but the shoulders should spring. Therefore, the first step is to choose the most suitable material for making a homemade bow, its wooden part. If you do everything right, then the larger your rod, the stronger the tensile force will be. The choice of material for the base should be taken properly, not every bush or branch from a tree is suitable for this business.

• Birch
• Ash
• Hazel

The main advantage of these trees over others is that they are elastic, which is extremely necessary for us, because when the bowstring is pulled on the rod, a fairly serious load will be applied.

It is very important when choosing to pay attention to the following nuances:

• The rod should be without bumps and cracks, knots will also only interfere. Take your time with the choice, look for the highest quality rod, this will save you from further problems.
• Having found a suitable rod, cut it so that its size is 1.5 m
• Since you will be cutting from a living tree, and not from a dead tree, the workpiece should be dried before further use. A very important point is to dry it to a certain humidity, and not dry it to complete dryness. Otherwise, it will lose its properties and become unsuitable for further use.

For example, you did not find an excellent even stick, and it is crooked, do not be upset right away. Take an iron container and put it on a fire (or use a boiling kettle at home). After the water boils, steam will begin to be plentifully released. By holding your workpiece over the steam, you can change its curve in crooked places.

Patience-requiring manufacturing method

If you want to do everything according to the rules, then this method will take a lot of time. Find or look after the right tree with the right branch (or better, even with a few suitable branches, there will be a spare part). Next, it is worth waiting for winter, when the air temperature is established in the region of 10-15 gr. The thing is that at this time of the year the juices of the tree will stand, as a result, the rod will turn out to be of the highest quality (an analogy with a winter forest for the construction of wooden houses). I will warn you, if you are harvesting the base in the winter, then cut the rod 20-30 cm longer than the estimated length of the bow. During drying, the ends of the rod may crack, and if the length is short, then you will not be able to fix this flaw.

Let's move on to drying. After we cut off our workpiece, we perform the following procedures:

1. We do not remove the bark.
2. Lubricate the ends of the twig with oil (or some other) paint. This will create favorable conditions for even drying of the future onion (moisture will not come out too quickly through the ends).
3. We hang the not yet finished product in a vertical position.
4. Depending on the percentage of humidity, we dry the part for 2-5 months.

After this time, we give the rod a more finished look: we remove (remove) a part of the material for shaping, which is shown below in the picture. The only thing to consider is that the hilt should be several times thicker than the shoulders of the bow.

At this stage, maximum concentration, clarity and uniformity are required from you. Remove the extra tree gradually, because both arms should be identical, the same length, diameter and thickness. If one of the arms is thinner, then there is a chance that it will simply break under load.

Next, we add the desired bend. Since we will not use special solutions (after all, we have a home version, not a professional one), we proceed to steam treatment in order to give the desired bend. If our part was overdried, then at this moment the workpiece will take in the missing moisture (not in large quantities).

Look at the photo below, what kind of bend should be given.

We take the board and nail the bars to it in the order indicated below in the photo (the nailed bars are marked in black). This device is called a slipway, we need it in order to place our part in it after steaming and it began to acquire onion bends, freeing itself from moisture (drying). After placing in the slipway, you should wait 7-10 days to consolidate the result and take the final form.

After 7-10 days, we take out the curved part and impregnate it with wax so that the moisture no longer comes out. We make cuts under the bowstring, if desired, wrap the handle so that the hand does not slip. The homemade bow is ready. It remains for a new bow and you can go to the shooting range.

Old skis are a great base for a bow

As you already understood, our shoulders will consist of 2 old skis, which we will attach to the handle. We advise you to make the handle from a suitable wooden block, which you grind to your size and preferences. But if there is none, then a part of the same ski can be used, which will act as a handle.

This method has several very significant advantages:

• Same shoulder size
• Same thickness
• Same dryness
• same shape
• Same bend

The material of the skis in this case does not play a big and decisive role, both wooden and plastic ones are suitable. It should be borne in mind that in this option you should not make the shoulders too long, as you will lose tension and, as a result, the power of the bow will decrease. The optimal size is 1.4 m.

The hunting bow is one of the oldest human tools used by our ancestors. These devices reached their apogee of development in the Middle Ages - and the most powerful and accurate were not English ones (as it was for a long time presented in literature), but oriental bows: Arabic, Korean and Japanese. The aiming range of their shot, given the simplicity of design in comparison with modern high-tech products, reached 200-220 meters, the maximum range of the arrow was 870-880 meters, and the tension force was up to 80 kg! Hunting bows are used to this day, but the cost of some models is quite high. Therefore, we suggest that you make such a tool with your own hands.

What is a hunting bow and its varieties

Initially, hunting bows were made exclusively of wood and had a simple arched shape. Somewhat later, simple models were replaced by composite ones, which first used bone endings, and then more complex structures from separately assembled parts: a central handle, a pair of shoulders and endings. Now block compound (or Olympic) options have been added to them. However, they are not used for hunting.

Collapsible bow design

In general, the current classification of hunting bows is the following division:

1. According to the material of manufacture:
   • traditional (made of wood);
   • composite (from several materials).
2. According to the structure of the main part:
   • classic (D-shaped in a bent form, that is, with one bend);
   • recursive (M-shaped, with several bends).
3. According to the number of components:
   • simple bows - from a single piece of material;
   • collapsible models - from several components.

Photo gallery: Modern hunting with industrial bows

Bow Mathews Compound bow VilingStore Compound bow Mathews CREED

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of classic bows (both traditional simple and recursive ones) is based on the creation of a pushing force that is imparted to the bowstring when the shoulders are straightened and provides the arrow with an initial speed that depends on the tension force. At the same time, the initial speed of the boom in a simple design also depends on these factors, while in block models, eccentrics located at the ends, synchronized with each other by a system of separate cables, are responsible for accuracy and speed.

A professional compound bow is made mainly from expensive and high-strength materials (carbon and fiberglass, magnesium and aluminum alloys, etc.) and contains a separate optical aiming system. In this regard, it is extremely difficult to make such a device on your own, and most importantly, very expensive. Therefore, further we will consider the assembly of hunting bows only of the classical type - both simple and complex recursive ones.

Photo gallery: Various designs of simple models

Materials and tools for manufacturing

To make a bow, you will need the following tools and materials:

• hacksaw;
• plane;
• strong rope (for bowstring);
• insulating tape;
• plastic tube (for PVC bows) or wood (for traditional options).

As for wood, yew is considered the best - it was from this tree that the famous English bows were made in the old days. In the absence of this rare breed, you can use larch, mountain ash, ash, hazel, willow, cedar, juniper or elm. In other words, the material must be homogeneous, flexible and beautiful.

Believe it or not, this is a homemade compound bow!

Manufacturing instructions

simple model

When making a simple PVC hunting bow, you will need a piece of SCH 40 pipe about 2.5 cm thick and a length equal to the distance between the middle of the thigh and the fingertips of the outstretched hand. After measuring 1.5 cm from both sides, make cuts. Insert and fasten the bowstring into them so that the maximum tension is approximately equal to the length of the bow.

The length of a simple bow is longer than a compound bow.

Attach to the string so that the maximum tension is approximately equal to the length of the bow

Unfortunately, a simple plastic bow can hardly be called a full-fledged hunting weapon - this will require a much more complex composite structure, in which 2 short pieces of a thin tube (to strengthen the shoulders) about 10 cm long will be inserted into the main pipe. larger diameter.

Homemade bow made of PVC tube and wood. Bowstring - silk thread

When making a wooden structure, it will be necessary to cut (cut out) the main part of the bow about 5 cm wide in the central part and 1.5 cm in the side ones.

Photo gallery: Making onions in the forest from improvised means

Simple homemade bow design

Video: Homemade bow their PVC pipes

Composite

A real hunting bow should be composite, and in shape as close as possible to modern high-class sports products. As a base, it is better to use flexible and non-layered wood from the lower and dense layers of trees growing in dark areas of the forest. On the "horns" is good, for example, bird cherry, growing on open, dry, clearings far from the water.

The length of all three parts that form the kibit (base plus both horns) should not exceed 1.5 m - otherwise the bow can get more range, but much less accuracy.

The step-by-step manufacturing technology will be as follows:

1. The cleaned blanks are dried (not in the sun!), All 3 parts are planed and dried again. Then the base and horns are given their final look and dried already in the bright sun.
2. Kibiti elements are glued together with special store-bought glue or self-made fish glue (from digested bones or the swim bladder of large fish).
3. Ready kibit is dipped into melted animal fat (or cedar resin) for impregnation.
4. The joints are additionally pulled together with tendons or a dense flexible cord and impregnated again, after which the finished bow is processed to smoothness with a knife and, if desired, polished.

It is also possible to superficially glue the base with strips of birch bark, and the horns and ends with overlays made of natural horn (or metal). However, such strengthening and creation of layering is relevant only for weapons with a very high (more than 20 kg) pull force, which hardly makes sense when hunting birds and small animals with a bow - except in terms of decoration.

Photo gallery: DIY compound bows

Compound bows dried after gluing
Homemade compound bows

Video: How to make a compound bow at home

Accessories

Making all the components of the bow at home is even easier than the main structure.

bowstring

Can be spun from nylon cord, although real hunters prefer natural material. Which is usually blood-soaked and dried rawhide rolled into a tube 3-4 mm wide. Although it is inferior to modern, even inexpensive synthetic materials, in terms of performance. The skin should be replaced with tendons from the vertebral part of large animals - moose, cows, etc. Or a bunch of natural silk threads can be used.

The bowstring is put on simply - first with a loop on one horn, and then, bending the end of the bow resting on the ground, on the second. For a recurve bow, the distance between the string and the handle should be about 15 cm, and the string must be removed when storing the bow.

Video: How to make a bowstring

Arrows

The length of the arrows should be proportional to the length of the bow and the maximum amount of string tension. In practice, this means that with the bow drawn, the arrowhead must protrude at least a few centimeters beyond the bow.

The diameter is approximately 6 mm, and the entire axis of the arrow must be perfectly flat. For small game and poultry, light wood is taken - spruce, pine, birch. For a larger animal - heavy and dense species (ash, hornbeam, oak). Arrows, like a torch, are pricked from logs, after which they are shaped into long and thin round cylinders.

Many hunters will surely have skis at home. An unnecessary pair of skis can make a wonderful bow, which will have a number of advantages - ready-made curved ends and the same bend of both shoulders.

Materials and tools:
1. Pieces of skis for making shoulders. It is preferable to choose skis for mountainous terrain, as they are quite rigid and have a bend angle of 20-28 degrees.
2. A large beam with a format of 8x8x50 or small bars for the handle.
3. Washers, bolts, wing nuts.
4. Nylon thread or some kind of string that does not stretch much.
5. Clamps.
6. Hacksaw.
7. Hand drill with a set of drills.
8. Hammer.
9. Chisel.
10. File or rasp for wood.
11. Sandpaper of different textures.
12. Glue.
13. If there is a goal to make a complex handle, it is recommended to stock up on a table and band saw, drilling machine, planer, belt or disc grinder.

Operating procedure:
Any work of this kind begins with a sketch of the design on a piece of paper. It is important to remember that the main thing in a bow is not aesthetics, but practicality. It must meet the following requirements: have a completely rigid handle, to which two shoulders will be attached with nuts, flat surfaces for the shoulders are needed on the handle, a place for gripping with a hand and a shelf for the passage of an arrow are also needed. These conditions are basic, the design does not really matter.

If the bow is being made for the first time, you can try to cut a model out of foam first. This is not required, but may be useful in further work with the tree. It is recommended to make a copy of the drawing, leaving the original for the final version. You can cut the foam model with a knife or a rasp. The advantage of this extra work is that on the foam you can combine a suitable 3D version for the part to be held by the hand.

Now you can take on the tree, starting the manufacture of the handle. If there is no single piece available, you can use several. In this case, you can even get a multi-colored unusual product. Oak, walnut are best suited. Using a table saw, they can be given the desired uniform width along the fibers. In this case, the width of the blanks should initially be 5 mm larger than the ski in its widest part. The planks are cut with a circular saw. Evenness is achieved with a planer, thickness gauge or sandpaper. If, nevertheless, a solid bar was found, you need to try to give it a square section. This is done with the help of a jointer, saw, planer.

The resulting boards can be glued. If the product is subsequently coated with polyurethane, there is no need to use a waterproof adhesive. You don’t need to squeeze out a lot - just squeeze out a couple of drops and smear them over the surface, forming an even layer. It is advisable to press the boards with a clamp and leave them in this position overnight.

The handle is cut with a band saw or jigsaw. To begin with, cuts are made from the edge of the workpiece to the template edge. After that, cut along the curved lines of the template. When the cuts are reached, pieces of wood fall off, forming places to stop the cut. After that, you can turn the handle blank to the side and mark the contour of the shelf for the passage of the boom. It should be noted that a chisel may be needed for a jigsaw. It is also recommended to use a clamp when making a vertical cut.

The shoulder of the bow should not be too long, otherwise some power is lost. To determine the length, it is worth attaching the ski to the handle. If necessary, cut off the excess. For a straight line, you need a square, and for a cut, a hacksaw.

When fastening parts, the number of bolts depends on their diameter. The drill must also fit the diameter. The thread must not cut into the wood. The ski is pressed against the handle with a clamp so that the planes are perpendicular to the drill. Holes are marked in the middle of the ski and 3 cm from the edge. The head of the bolt must be recessed.

Now all scratches and marks are carefully removed from the handle thanks to sandpaper. Polyurethane paper is also suitable for finishing.

Comrade Hobbit started an interesting topic, well, at least interesting to me. "Onion". Everyone decides the degree of necessity and possible use of this weapon for himself, but in my opinion the topic is interesting and worthy of attention.

In search of information, I went to the Internet. Well, in general, a lot of things people write, something deserves attention, something does not. I wanted to find an option that was cheap and cheerful. To spend a minimum of effort and time, and at the output to get a more or less worthy result. Found. That's what I want to post.
Next comes the copy-paste.

There is enough information on the net about the manufacture of bows, bowstrings, arrows and quivers, but this is all quite scattered, so I decided to collect a description of the entire manufacturing process in one place. I will try to detail it with photos.
So the task is to make a bow, having a minimum of tools at home, quickly enough and with acceptable performance characteristics. As the first model, the compound longbow model is best suited. We will do it. For a complete set, we need to make: a handle, shoulders, a bowstring, arrows, and, if you really want to, a quiver. And do it cheaply.
The necessary set of tools is a drill or a screwdriver, a knife, a planer, an electric jigsaw or a saw, lots and lots of sanding paper.

Part one: the handle.
To make it, we need a bar of decent wood 30 * 50 mm, about 40 cm long. It must be chosen responsibly, pine will not work on it, you need at least birch, beech is better. We look at the annual rings of the workpiece. They should go along the wide side.
We mark the handle 4 times by 10 cm, as you can see in the photo, this is one of the design options, you can come up with something of your own. We cut the handle with a jigsaw or saw, drill 6 mm holes for furniture bolts and 3 mm blind holes along the edges and insert pieces of nails so that they stick out by five millimeters.
It makes no sense to immediately process the handle completely, the bow will still be adjusted, so we will leave the skinning for later.

Part two: shoulders.
The most controversial part is in materials, technologies and sizes.
I have tried many technologies - skis, veneer, composite shoulders, but it's not that. Absolutely by accident, at a local furniture factory, I found a Klondike of blanks for shoulders. This happiness is called an elastic element and is a plywood, where all the layers go along, with dimensions: length 120 cm, width 50 mm, thickness 12 mm, slightly varnished and has a large radius of curvature. In short, for the shoulders of the bow, that's it! I forgot to say - the price is just a song, about 10 rubles for a set of shoulders! Similar products can be found in offices that assemble furniture.
We mark the workpieces brought home as follows - we mark 15 mm obliquely from each edge, draw a cut place using the second workpiece (very convenient, given the curvature of the workpiece) and use a jigsaw from one piece of wood to make two!
Now is the time to decide on the size of the future miracle! English longbow - the prototype of the product was quite long. Less than 120 cm it makes no sense to do it, because. there will be a large bending angle of the shoulders, which means they will quickly fail. Also, the longbow has a more uniform force when pulling the bowstring. Our bow will be collapsible, so there is no need to worry about how to transport it. We arrived at the dacha / picnic / kebabs, assembled, shot, disassembled, brought home, put in the closet. For quick assembly / disassembly, only two hex keys are needed.
Something I digress. We have already decided that the length of the bow will be 160 cm (just kidding, decide for yourself).
Based on this, the length of the shoulders will be 70 cm, i.e. bow length minus 20 cm between the shoulders on the handle and divide in half. The last time I made bows (they are in the pictures) of 180 cm. I did not measure the force, but it was convenient to shoot for both children and their parents.
We put the two blanks obtained together, we are surprised at the curvature of our hands, we select the part that will become the shoulders, we measure, saw off the excess. We apply it to the handle, drill a hole for a furniture nut with the largest hat (50 mm bolts and nuts for them are available in stores selling furniture fittings, for a ruble per bolt). Having taken out the pieces of the nail from the handle, we collect the bow and rejoice!
Shoulders are best marked with up arrows, like me, because they are not interchangeable! Now we insert one piece of the nail into the handle, assemble the bow, align the bow symmetrically and lightly press the handle, the nail will mark the place in the shoulder for the hole, drill a blind hole about 5 mm. We do the same with the second shoulder.
Now it's time for the long-awaited skinning! We cut out seats for the bowstring at a distance of 3 cm from the edge, cut out the handle, align the shoulders with a planer, cover all this beauty with varnish or paint. In short, creative freedom. One important point - the edge of the handle must be filled up so that there is a gap of 1-1.5 mm between the handle and the shoulder, otherwise there is a chance to break the shoulder in this place!

Part three: bowstring.
It is easy to make a bowstring that has the necessary characteristics and a decent appearance! Forget about Kevlar, Dacron and others like them! These materials, not only can you find horseradish, have one advantage, it is also the main drawback - they do not stretch! Those. if your children/slightly drunken comrades try to play with such a bowstring without an arrow, there is a real chance to change the limbs of the bow for new ones!
In short, we go to a fishing store and buy a spool of Chinese nylon thread for 25 rubles. Threads come in different thicknesses, I liked those that are thicker. We also need a board / bar longer than the future bowstring and two large nails without a hat. I used two bars sewn with self-tapping screws. It is better to wrap the future bowstring with the help of a spool from the spool of a sewing machine from my mother. And if you cut out a U-shaped plate, drill a hole for the thread in the middle of the shelf and fix the coil in this fixture with a screw, winding the bowstring will be a pleasure!
It's time to decide on the length of the bowstring! Instead of a bowstring, we tie a rope, measure it with a tape measure, that's it! Remember that over time, under load, the bowstring will stretch.
We mark the measured distance on the previously prepared board / bar. We drill two holes, insert two nails without hats. We also mark the middle of the distance and 5 cm from the center in both directions. We tie a nylon thread to one of the nails, with a slight uniform tightness we wind it so that the total thickness of the bowstring is about 3 mm. We tie the ends of the bowstring and stretch the knot so that it stands about 5 cm from the center, only carefully, the bowstring can fly off the nail.


We take a device for winding, leave a tail of about 20 cm, start wrapping both strands of the bowstring in turn, wrap it around 10 cm each, wrap the tail together with the strand, after finishing we tie the winding with a simple knot. So we get the blanks of the bowstring loops.



We shift the loops back to the nails, wrap the loops, beautifully closing the ends of the braid, wrap 10 cm in the middle under the bowstring, close the ends. Everything, the string is ready!
Now how do you dress her? We dress on one shoulder of the bow, but not in the cut, but further. Then we hook the bowstring into the cut of the second shoulder, rest this shoulder on the floor so that it lies flat on the floor, resting on the bow handle, squeeze the second shoulder up and insert the bowstring into the cut. It is more convenient to do this together.

Part four: arrow.
An equally important detail of the shooting complex, so we do it carefully, although they are lost, broken, etc. on the shooters. We go to the hardware store and buy a bead 10 * 10 mm. We buy a lot of it, because. consumable material. We select carefully, straight, without knots. I took 4 rubles per meter.
It's time to decide on the length of the future arrow. To do this, we get up, pull the left hand with the index finger extended to the left parallel to the ground, look at this finger. The length of the arrow is the distance from the tip of the finger to the chin!
The blank for the arrow should be 5 cm longer than the future product.
We remove the edges of the glazing bead with a planer, bring it to a round state using the following device.
At the base are two suitable boards / pieces of plywood, pieces of a glazing bead with knots are nailed along the edge of one. A hefty evil skin on a rag basis is glued to both parts of the device. The length of the fixture is comparable to the length of the arrow, the width is about 10 cm. If desired, both parts can be sewn with a piece of leather along one side.


The principle of rounding is very simple, we clamp the workpiece into a screwdriver and at high speeds a couple of minutes of reciprocating movements. After that, in the hands, using sanding paper 100, 200, 600, only it is better to hold the paper through a rag so as not to get burned. As a result, we get an amazing quality arrow shaft with a diameter of about 9 mm. I tried a 500 watt drill, not that it twists the workpiece into a spiral.
cut off<технологический хвостик>, we make a cut perpendicular to the annual rings to a depth of 8-10 mm, we expand the cut with a flat file, we also round the edges of the cut with it, cut off 1-1.5 mm from above and below at a length of about 2 cm.
Part five: plumage.
I decided to make the manufacture of plumage in a separate part.
The goal is a simple weather-resistant bright plumage with good flight characteristics. For manufacturing, we need colored tape, aluminum tape, A4 paper. We cut the paper along the short edge to a width of 4 cm (4 * 21). We cut the aluminum tape 1 * 21 cm and fold it along the aluminum outward.




We unwind the colored tape with a sticky layer up on a flat surface, lay the paper so that 5 mm is left on both sides, glue strips of aluminum tape on these places and again a layer of colored tape on top. With one such blank, 4 feathers are obtained. So there are a lot of them to do.
Further, from any material at hand, we cut out a template for the future pen, the shape is for an amateur, the optimal dimensions are 8-10 cm long, 1.5-2 cm wide.
We circle the pattern with a ballpoint pen, cut out the feather, not forgetting 1 cm of aluminum tape on both sides for further winding. Feathers are even more consumable than arrows, after successful shooting, the disheveled feathers on the arrows found can be cut off, the arrow cleaned with sandpaper and new feathers glued on!



So, we take an arrow, peel off the protective strip from the pen and carefully glue the pen at a distance of 3 cm from the edge of the arrow, and so on three times! The strips should touch each other. Next, we take colored tape, put it on a flat surface, which is not a pity, with a sticky layer up, cut off a piece of about 10 cm with a clerical knife, cut this piece into 5 ribbons 1 cm wide, glue three strips between the feathers, cut off the excess tape with the same knife, the remaining two pieces wrap the feathers on top and bottom. Plumage is ready!

Part six: tips. Theoretical.
About the tips. I will not quote what the law says about this, I will only say that the tips ordered a long time ago from the turner have rusted and disappeared somewhere. I did not put tips, an arrow without a tip (albeit from a compound bow) pierces a medium-sized head of cabbage through and through.
For those who like to shoot at each other, I can advise you to do<гуманизаторные наконечники>, are made simply, we take a strip of thick leather 1 cm wide, fold the strip in half, tie it to an arrow, then tie another strip crosswise, we wind a cross from the same leather on top. I myself have never done such a miracle.

Z.Y.
Well, I'll add my own. I myself have not yet had time to try out this technology: there is no turning around at home, and the workshop will be available only with the first warming. But the wait is not long and it pleases. If interested, I can post a report on the work done later.

And of course (since this is a copy-paste) I give