What kind of foundation is needed for a garage made of foam blocks? Metal profile garages - photo projects and do-it-yourself installation technology How to make a pillar foundation for a garage.

The construction of a garage, like any other structure, begins with the creation of a foundation - a foundation. A reliable foundation will provide the “house” for your car with the longest possible service life.

Varieties

Several basic types of foundations are common in construction. They differ in the following parameters:

• by the method of support on the soil and configuration;
• on the materials from which the foundation is laid.

Let's look at four main categories of foundations.

Columnar

The structure of such a base consists of pillars made of stone, rubble (breakstone) or brick. The supports are constructed in increments of approximately 1.2 to 2.5 meters under the most important points of concentration of loads of the future structure (intersection of walls, corners, in places where heavy boiler equipment is installed, etc.). In order to connect individual pillars into a strong structure, beams are placed on top of them, connecting the heads of the posts, resulting in a finished base.

Separately, it is necessary to say about the columnar foundation made using TISE technology. Its principle is to drill wells at the points where the supports are installed, then strengthen them with reinforcement and fill them with concrete mortar. Another name for this base is columnar monolithic. The lower segment of the column (sole) has an extension.

Distinctive characteristics of the foundation:

• Can be used on light soils that are not prone to movement (displacement) and a strong increase in volume (heaving). It performed excellently in deeply frozen heaving soils.
• An excellent solution for the construction of low-rise buildings (timber, panel, frame houses).
• Reasonable price, minimal working time (compared to other types of bases).
• Does not require waterproofing device.
• Suitable for buildings without basements.
• A durable, cheap foundation, intensively practiced in private construction.

Tape

The name of the foundation entirely corresponds to the visual representation of its structure. This is a reinforced concrete strip stretched under all load-bearing external and internal walls of the building.

The production of such a base requires a larger scale of excavation work and the cost of building materials, compared to the analogue described above.

There are:

• Shallow strip foundation– suitable for light buildings made of blocks, logs, frame structures. The depth of location is no more than 70 cm, that is, not below the soil freezing line. Suitable for constant soils or heaving (dispersed) soils that freeze deeply.

• Buried foundations– are installed below the freezing depth. Able to withstand heaving (increase in volume) and soil movement. Suitable for heavy brick, stone and other buildings. If the structure is built from light materials and has a small mass, then it is better not to make such a foundation, since the weight of the structure will be very small for the stability of the foundation during the period of heaving and soil movement.

• Monolithic tape– the finished formwork, reinforced with reinforcement, is filled with concrete mortar. Prefabricated strip - a base of large reinforced concrete foundation blocks. Weak point: when constructing a foundation of a complex configuration, some inconveniences may arise. The main advantages of such foundations: operational flexibility (suitable for almost all types of soil and types of buildings), as well as the possibility of constructing cellars, garages and basements.

Pile

This type of foundation is optimal for weak soils, when it is necessary to transfer the load from the building to harder layers. In addition, pile foundations are intensively practiced for the construction of houses on construction sites with slopes and large unevenness. Of course, you can bring in soil and level the construction site. However, the use of piles will be cheaper.

The foundation structure consists of separately located piles connected by a grillage (beam).

By lowering each pile to the calculated depth, you can easily obtain a horizontally flat surface of the beam for building walls.

Types of piles:

• Drivers. For the construction of low-rise buildings, they are not practiced due to economic unjustification. Special equipment is required to drive piles into the ground. As a rule, they are used in the construction of industrial and civil structures.
• Bored. A well is drilled in the ground and filled with concrete solution. The upper supporting parts of the piles are set to a certain height and connected with a grillage. Piles can be reinforced or unreinforced.
• Screw. The piles are made of metal; at the end immersed in the ground, special screw blades are provided. They are quite widely practiced in the construction of low-rise buildings, since they make it possible to quickly prepare the foundation.

Slab (Swedish stove)

A powerful and heavy base for the construction of structures made of blocks, logs, and bricks. This type of base is also called floating, and it can be used on almost any soil (including clay, peat and with a high level of heaving). The slab foundation is cast on a sand and gravel bed to the size of the structure or a little larger.

When the soil moves, the base “floats”, which saves the structure from destruction.

• A shallow slab base is constructed on the surface of the soil (only the cushion is prepared). There is no possibility of constructing a basement.
• Recessed slab base. To construct it, a pit is dug, onto the base of which concrete is poured to form a slab. Suitable for buildings with a basement, cellar, garage. Separately, it should be said about the modern slab base - Swedish plate or USHP (insulated Swedish plate).

Its feature is the side edges and bottom insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, communications inside the platform, as well as a “warm floor”. USHP is a heated base for flooring, foundation, and ceiling of the first floor.

Walls can be erected on this slab immediately, and upon completion of construction, the finishing floor covering can be laid.

Which to choose?

Choosing a suitable foundation is a task even more responsible and important than the construction of the garage itself (except for a pencil case garage). Since the service life of the entire structure will depend on the reliability, stability and strength of the foundation.

So what type of base should you choose for your garage? Here is a rough set of simple rules:

• If the soil is swampy and the groundwater level is high, then it is better not to build a basement and inspection pit, but to build the foundation either on a slab or on piles.
• Do you live in a permafrost zone? Then build a slab or pile foundation.
• If you do not require a basement and an inspection hole, then you can arrange either a shallow strip foundation or a slab foundation.
• If the site has complex terrain, then a pile foundation with a reinforced concrete grillage is ideal.
• If a basement is required - only a strip foundation.

How to calculate?

Due to the fact that a permanent garage can be built from cinder block, brick, gypsum block, foam block, aerated concrete blocks, gas silicate blocks, foam brick, expanded clay concrete blocks, and, as a rule, has small dimensions, it can be built according to hand-drawn diagrams without detailed calculations . But the foundation for the garage must certainly be calculated, since the depth of its foundation determines its wear resistance and load-bearing capacity during operation.

This value depends on:

• weight of the structure;
• groundwater level;
• the maximum depth to which the soil freezes in winter.

These indicators are constantly taken into account when calculating the foundation. The main factor is the depth of freezing, as it reflects the level of expansion (heaving) of the soil. Therefore, the depth of foundation (d) is determined by a simple formula: d = depth of soil freezing in the region + 20% (m).

With an increased level of groundwater, the reserve can not be calculated, but pay close attention to the waterproofing of foundation parts.

Be sure to take into account an additional distance for making a sand or gravel cushion - 20-30 cm.

Dimensions

To calculate the width, you need to know what the walls of the garage will be built from. The thickness of the beam or foundation strip should be 20-30% greater than the thickness of the wall (for a wall made of 300 mm blocks, a beam 360-390 mm wide is made along the length of all sides of the foundation).

To calculate the required height of the tape, you need to know what soils are at the base, what the weight of the future building and machine is. The foundation for a garage, the depth of which is determined by the level of freezing, is considered to have a height of +20-30 cm to the resulting value. For hard soils, take approximately 60-80 cm (the total height from the bottom plane of the foundation to the top, excluding the pillow), for heaving soils - 1-1.5 meters.

The length of the piles is calculated according to the principle: soil freezing level + 1.5 meters, approximately 2.5-4 meter products will be required.

The perimeter must be thought out in advance: The minimum permissible wall length is 3-6 meters. The best option for a 4x7 meter garage– this will have enough space for the free deployment of a car and the movement of a person.

You can set personal dimensions: add 1-1.5 m to the length and width of the car (or another value that is most optimal for you).

How to do it step by step with your own hands?

The most common type of foundation for a garage is strip foundation. Using his example, we will analyze the step-by-step process of constructing a foundation.

Marking

Marking the strip foundation involves creating an angle of 90 degrees. This is done like this:

• According to the plan of the future garage, we determine the location of the right front corner. We hammer in the first peg. This will be the front corner of the garage.
• From it we measure the required distance to the second auxiliary peg and drive it in.
• We stretch a fishing line (rope) between the driven stakes.
• Now we pull the ropes from both pegs at right angles perpendicular to the first line. And we put the third and fourth marks (we drive in stakes).

The result is a rectangle. To check the accuracy of the markings, you can use two methods:

• Measure the rectangle along the diagonals. They must be equal in length.
• From the corner, measure a distance of 3 meters in one direction and 4 meters in the other. With normal marking, the distance between the points will be 5 meters. The exact same check must be done at each corner.

If everything is marked correctly, you won’t have to worry about rearranging pegs from place to place, and you can proceed to the next stage.

We dig a trench. You can dig a ditch with your own hands using a shovel. The bottom of the ditch must be perfectly level. Therefore, use a water level during work.

Formwork

To create formwork, use sheets of plywood, boards or chipboard, more than 2 cm thick. Knock together the panels and lower them into the ditch on both sides. Secure with wooden blocks. Install spacers of the same length between the panels. This way you will form the same width of the formwork around the entire perimeter.

Place supports on the outside of the formwork. Cover the bottom of the ditch and the side sections of the formwork with waterproofing to prevent liquid from leaking out of the concrete solution.

How to pour concrete?

Concrete M 200-M 300 is suitable for the foundation for a garage. Concrete can be made independently or use factory-made material. A more reliable base will come from a factory solution, because it is quite difficult to follow the technology for its production at a construction site.

Work can be carried out in two methods:

• continuous;
• layer by layer.

The continuous technique ensures high quality pouring of the structure. If you need to take a short break in work, pour the concrete solution in a layer-by-layer manner.

Remember! The top layer cannot be leveled; for stronger adhesion to subsequent layers, it must be uneven.

When ordering a factory solution, the work process should not cause problems. The solution is fed into the formwork from a concrete mixer, placed using specialized hoses, compacted and leveled by vibration.

If possible, pouring the concrete solution should be done at a temperature of +15 to + 25°C. If it is necessary to fill the foundation in cold weather, use special additives and heat the construction site.

Waterproofing

After removing the formwork panels, the concrete surfaces are treated with waterproofing materials.

For a tape-type base, 3 methods of protection against excess moisture are required simultaneously:

• vertical;
• horizontal;
• blind area.

The vertical method is carried out using welded or coating materials on the outer surface of the buried section of the foundation. Horizontal is made from welded materials on the surface of the concrete strip.

The blind area (concrete strip) prevents the penetration of rainwater into the structure. After completing all work below the zero mark, backfill with sand or soil.

Laying a base from other materials

There are alternative foundation options:

• from tires– you can use tires for trucks and cars, tractors, buses, airplanes (suitable only for light structures);
• from sleepers– an excellent solution for foundation construction when it is necessary to do without the use of traditional materials;

• from FBS– has considerable advantages, including excellent quality, as well as a relatively low price;
• from road slabs– can be used on almost any type of soil and in all climatic zones.

Features of connection to the house

Throughout his life, a person tries to create a comfortable and laconic space around himself. One of the best solutions in this case is to add a garage to the house. The extension can be located on both the left and right sides of the house. It is important to choose the shortest distance from the entrance to the yard to the garage. Actually, the location of the gate determines the placement of the extension.

Ideally, the extension garage should be built during the construction of the house., then the house and the garage will stand on the same foundation. If you build a garage after building a house, do not neglect the foundation. A strong foundation will not hurt to enhance strength. Then the house and the extension will shrink at the same time.

The shortest distance of doors and windows in a house from a technical structure is 2.5 meters, and the shortest distance from a balcony to the ridge of a garage roof is 2 meters. Since the extension is a fire-hazardous technical building, during its construction it is necessary to strictly comply with all the necessary conditions regarding fire safety.

If you plan to install swing doors between the house and the garage, then you will need to maintain a “blind zone” or free space for the movement of the doors.

Advantages of the extension:

• The need for laying a separate route for water supply, heating, and electrical wiring is eliminated.
• Saving building materials.
• Maintenance of the premises is simplified.

The extension allows you to equip the room with everything you need:

• garage with pit;
• basement;
• cellar;
• workshop;
• electric lift.

The nuances of building a garage on a slope

When developing a garage project, it is necessary to take into account the level of steepness of the site. As it increases, creating a construction project becomes more complex. Sometimes, the high steepness of the slope does not make it possible to build a garage or house. To create an underground part of a garage or house, you will need a grillage pile, columnar, stepped strip or multi-level slab foundation.

You can set the level of slope during construction with the difference in heights of the lower and upper points of the construction site, projected onto a line parallel to the horizon plane. This parameter is measured as a percentage. For example, if the horizontal distance is 100 meters, and the elevation of the points is 15 meters, this means that the slope of this section is 15%.

In this regard, the territory can conditionally be:

• Rovnoy. When the surface slope is less than 3%. This is the most prosperous site with the lowest costs when constructing a building.
• With a slight slope from 3% to 8%. Such areas are suitable for the construction of structures without a basement. In order to expand the site from the foothill side, you will need to add soil.
• With an average slope of 9% to 20%. In such a situation, you can build a basement. The terrace does not need to be leveled, but the lower floor is constructed by removing part of the slope soil. This is a very good option for building an underground garage in the basement, if access to it is accessible from the direction of the slope.
• With a strong slope of more than 20%. This option requires a thorough development of the structure design to allow maximum exploitation of the gentle slope. The cost of such a project is quite high.

Helpful advice: regardless of the slope of the site, the building must be located at its highest point in order to create conditions for natural water drainage. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account: if there are still areas higher up the inclined plane, it means that it is necessary to arrange the flow of water from these places not through ditches, but through specially designed pipelines, which will minimize soil erosion.

When constructing a building, the choice must be made in favor of a site on which the slope is directed to the west or south; this will affect the rate of heating of the soil, especially in the spring. The greater the verticality of the inclined plane to the sun's rays, the more heat it will receive. This is clearly visible when the snow melts in the spring.

In addition, at low temperatures and at night, the air cools down the slopes and fog begins to accumulate. As a result, if the site for the construction of a structure is located near the bottom point of the depression, a nightly or seasonal temperature difference will occur on it, which is formed by the upper and lower points of the site.

When constructing a structure at the highest point of the site:

1. The foundation is minimally exposed to surface and groundwater.
2. In this situation, it is easier to drain surface water from the top point and, if necessary, use it for watering the garden plot.
3. Construction at the highest point makes it possible to optimally solve the problem of water drainage.

We must realize that financially profitable construction will not work on such a difficult terrain. The costs of a zero cycle, digging holes, drainage and monolithic work, construction of retaining walls, and so on can cover the price of the garage itself.

Remember: regardless of the fact that the garage is not a critical structure, it must be built on a reliable foundation in compliance with all rules and regulations. Only in this way will the “housing” for your car be ideally protected from the negative influences of nature.

You can learn how to properly dig a trench for a strip foundation by watching the video below.

1. The question of building a garage arises for all car enthusiasts - owners of private houses, if the conditions of the site provide such an opportunity. True, it often happens that the construction of this necessary house building is postponed “until better times” due to the apparent duration and complexity of the process, as well as the high cost of building materials. However, there is a simple way out: you can build DIY frame garage, literally in a few days and at the lowest cost - this will be the best option.

It is quite possible to build such a structure even independently. But the process will take much less time if, when planning to create a frame garage, you manage to find a skillful assistant with experience in the art of construction, so that he will not only be “always on hand,” but also be able to warn against mistakes and inaccuracies.

Advantages of frame construction

As you know, in recent years the technology of constructing frame houses has become very widely practiced, which, when using high-quality materials, correct installation of the frame and, perfectly replace cold stone walls. So, why not try to build a frame garage?

A reliable foundation and high-quality fastening of frame elements will make such a garage no less practical and durable than brick or block buildings.

So, the advantages of the frame structure include the following points:

• Simplicity of installation and the ability to do the work yourself will save considerable money, which, otherwise, would be spent on paying for the work of the construction team.
• The ability to build a garage in a short time is also a significant saving of effort and money.
• A relatively affordable price for the building materials necessary for the work - this depends on the specifics of the future garage.
• The small volume and weight of building materials will make it possible to do without the use of specialized equipment for construction work and will reduce transportation costs.
• The construction of a frame garage can be made of either wood or metal, at the choice of the car owner.

The main stages of work on the construction of a frame garage

If we talk about the procedure for constructing a garage, it differs little from building a small house and includes several stages:

• Preparing the site for construction - clearing the construction site.
• Digging a pit.
• Foundation creation.
• Marking and assembling the wall frame.
• Creation of a roof structure.
• Work on insulation and wall covering.
• Installation of garage doors.

So, in order to understand each of the processes, they need to be considered in more detail.

Construction site preparation

This stage of work includes several measures that must be carried out efficiently, since the evenness of the foundation, and, as a consequence, the entire structure will depend on them.

Having chosen a site for construction, its perimeter is marked and then well leveled. The area should be larger than the perimeter of the garage by 500÷600 mm on each side - this distance is necessary for the blind area. The marked area must be cleared of 150÷200 mm of top fertile soil layer. Such work can be done using special equipment or manually.

The second option, of course, will slow down the process, but it will help save a decent amount, since calling out equipment is quite expensive. The soil is removed manually using two shovels - a bayonet shovel and a shovel shovel. Using a bayonet shovel, the boundary and depth of the soil layer to be removed is outlined, and the same tools are used to trim and crush it. After this, the soil can be easily removed with a shovel, while simultaneously carrying out leveling.

After the site has been cleared of the soil layer, the soil must be well compacted using a hand tamper or roller.

Foundation for a frame structure

The next step in the prepared area is to mark the foundation of the garage. You can choose any foundation for a frame structure, since the building will not be overly massive and will not put a large load on the foundation. True, it is also necessary to take into account the weight of the car, as well as all the internal equipment of the garage. Of the existing types of foundations, in this case, strip or slab foundations would be preferable, but columnar or pile foundations are also used.

Based on the selected dimensions, it is necessary to mark the corner points of the perimeter of the base for the walls. For all types of foundations, the corners are marked, in principle, the same way, but their internal arrangement is somewhat different from each other.

Work on marking the boundaries of the foundation is carried out in the following order:

— One of the corner points is outlined, in accordance with the reference to other objects on the site.

- At this point, marking cast-offs are installed - simple devices made from stakes and a crossbar board.

— The cords are stretched along one side and the other of the future foundation for the entire length of the wall and are fixed on castoffs on the opposite side.

- Then, in the same way, the approximate location of the last corner is determined, which is also connected by cords to two adjacent corners.

- Now we need to achieve straightness of the corners. The cast-off crossbar makes it possible to move the cord fixation point on it within certain limits. To achieve exact perpendicularity of the sides, the rule of the “Egyptian triangle” is usually used: sides that are multiples of 3, 4 and 5 will always create a right angle. Such a triangle can be laid out from long, even slats, reinforcing rods, or even from a strong, non-stretchable rope (cord).

You should not make such a triangle too small - there is a high probability of error. You can, for example, take “n” to be 0.5, then the sides will be 1.5, 2 and 2.5 meters, which will be convenient and accurate.

- You can finally verify the correctness of the rectangle by measuring and comparing the diagonals - they should be the same length.

- If it is being built, then the internal area for the foundation is additionally marked to determine the location of each of the supports - this process is carried out approximately as shown in the illustration above. At the intersection of the stretched cords the pits for the pillars will be located.

• Columnar foundation in arrangement It seems much simpler than others, and it is quite possible to do it yourself, without resorting to outside help. This design is most often chosen if it is planned to lay a plank floor in the garage, which is most often installed in a frame wooden garage.

A columnar foundation can be made in different ways and from different materials - reinforced concrete, brick, concrete blocks, or a combined design. But for a garage it cannot be called an entirely optimal solution. A powerful boardwalk is required so that it can withstand the considerable weight of the car, and the issue of equipment for entering the premises - the entrance ramp - also arises. However, for a light frame structure, especially when the problem of construction time is acute, all these difficulties do not seem excessive.

• Excellent for placing a frame structure on it. It is more complex to manufacture and requires not only the installation of formwork, but also reinforcement in compliance with technological rules. Construction will take longer, taking into account the waiting time for the concrete to harden and mature, which means that the process of building a garage will take a longer time.

However, strip foundations have their advantages. There remain ample opportunities to create an inspection pit equipped in accordance with all the rules. The garage floor can be made of either wood or concrete. When choosing a wooden flooring for logs, additional supports will have to be made inside the strip foundation, in the form of concrete or brick pillars, or wooden beams treated with bitumen mastic dug into marked places.

Prices for bitumen mastic

bitumen mastic

• often considered (not quite rightly) the most difficult to install, since it will be necessary to create a system of compacted layers from various materials before pouring the slab itself.

This type of foundation turns out to be quite expensive in price if we compare it in terms of the amount of material and labor intensity of work with the first two options. However, we must not forget that at the same time a ready-made, reliable garage floor is created, characterized by enviable durability. Even if the frame structure is eventually planned to be replaced with the main walls of the garage, then a slab foundation is perfect for this.

We will not pay more attention to foundation issues - a lot of information is contained on other pages of the site.

Self-building a foundation - how to do it right?

If there is no construction experience in this field, then you must first “take a training course.” Details of how it is created - from calculations (there are built-in calculators) to practical implementation - are described in a special publication on our portal.

Garage frame

The frame of the building can be made of timber, a metal profile, or these materials can be combined with each other. The construction of the wall frame can be divided into several stages:

• Installation of the lower frame trim.
• Assembly and raising of vertical frame wall structures.
• Securing the top trim.
• Sheathing that further strengthens the frame structure.
• Installation of roof frame structure.

Installation of the frame structure must be carried out according to a pre-drawn drawing on which all dimensions are indicated. It is best to prepare parts of the same size in advance and fold them in separate stacks, writing the parameters and frame area on them - this will significantly save time during assembly work.

Bottom harness

So, when assembling the frame, the first step is to lay waterproofing material on the finished foundation. Most often, roofing felt is used for this purpose. This is necessary to preserve the wooden frame elements from direct exposure to moisture, and the metal ones from the occurrence of corrosive processes. This “cutoff” prevents moisture from spreading capillarily from the foundation walls from the soil during melting snow or rain.

Next, a wooden beam 120×120, 120×150 or 150×150 mm, a board 50×120 or 50×150 mm, is laid and secured on the surface of the foundation pillars, on a concrete strip or along the marked lines on a slab base around the perimeter. When installing a metal frame, a steel channel or profile pipe with a square section of 100×100 mm is used.

Wooden trim elements may have different connections at the corners. The beam is most often fastened into half a tree.

When using boards laid in two layers, which form the thickness of the strapping, the shape of the joint can also be called half a tree, but it is formed using “bandaging” at the corners,

The wooden parts of the frame are secured with anchor screws or on studs pre-embedded in the surface of the foundation.

Metal parts, both pipe and channel, are connected at the corners by welding.

If the frame is installed on a columnar foundation, or on a strip foundation, but when it is further planned to lay a wooden floor in the garage, then inside the frame the frame is installed on the edge of the joist boards.

Joists are needed not only to secure the floor boards - they will also make the lower part of the frame base more rigid and durable.

Wall frame installation

The wall frame can be assembled in two ways:

— Directly at the place of its installation, that is, each element of the frame is installed separately and fixed in the overall vertical structure of the walls. This option is most often used when assembling wooden structures.

— The frame of each of the walls is assembled on the ground in a horizontal position and only then, in assembled form, is set up and fixed to the frame vertically. This method is especially convenient when, for example, when assembling metal structures, additional devices are used - jigs, which facilitate the precise execution of assembly and welding work.

Vertical and horizontal parts of the wall frame are usually made from a profile pipe or timber 60×60 mm, as well as boards 30×120 or 30×150 mm, depending on the selected parameters of the bottom trim and the planned thickness of the insulation.

Metal and wood can be combined quite well. So, for example, the bottom frame can be made of timber, and the frame for the walls is made only of square pipe. The convenience of this approach lies in the ease of attaching metal racks to a wooden base.

Upper frame frame

The upper frame of the structure should rigidly bind the frame of the walls into a single structure and give it strength. For the top trim, a beam or pipe is used, which will correspond to the size of the wall frame elements.

Prices for edged boards

edged board

For example, if boards 120 mm wide were used as vertical posts, then the frame can be made from boards of the same width, laid in two layers, or timber, for example, 60 × 120 mm.

This illustration shows a version of the top trim, made of two layers of boards, with a width and thickness equal to the parameters of the vertical posts of the structure.

Primary frame cladding

To immediately strengthen the wall frame, it should be sheathed on the outside or inside with sheet material (plywood, OSB sheets, corrugated sheets).

At this stage of the work, it will be enough to secure the sheets only on one side of the walls of the frame, since the cladding in this case is needed to strengthen the structure. This process is completed after the roofing material has been secured. If it is planned to further insulate the building from the inside, then the cladding is done from the outside, but sometimes it is done the other way around.

Frame garage floors

The garage roof can be single-pitch or gable. The second design option is more complex, but it allows you to arrange an attic space or just an under-roof space for storing various tools and materials needed both for car repairs and in the household.

The roof installation consists of several stages of work:

— Manufacturing of truss systems for single-pitched or gable roofs.

— Sheathing the roof slopes with plywood sheets or installing the necessary sparse sheathing.

— Flooring roofing material.

Gable roof

Garage floor

It is best to install a wooden floor when the roof is covered and the walls already have solid cladding. This way you can keep the boards from getting wet in case of unexpected rain. For the floor, non-grooved boards are most often used, since it is necessary to give the wood the opportunity to change its condition under the influence of temperatures and moisture.

A small temperature gap of 3 to 5 mm is left between the flooring boards - it will preserve the wood from deformation.

The boards are fixed to the joists, and most often they are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

If a slab foundation was used, then the floor is almost ready. True, it is recommended to immediately treat a flat concrete surface with a special deep-penetrating strengthening primer, which will bond the top layers of concrete, strengthen them, and impart additional hydrophobic qualities. This floor can be painted, tiled, or left as is.

In the same case, when a strip foundation is chosen for the garage, serious work still needs to be done on creating a concrete screed.

How to properly concrete a garage floor?

A concrete floor for a garage is probably the best option in terms of durability and practicality. The nuances are covered in detail in a special publication on our portal.

Insulation of a frame garage

Thermal insulation material can be mounted into a frame structure from the outside or inside, depending on which side the walls have already been initially covered with sheet material. In any case, the insulation must be located between two layers of cladding.

Garage exterior cladding

Different materials are used for cladding the walls on the outside, and the choice depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the garage owner.

The most popular finishes are metal or vinyl siding or siding panels, as well as corrugated wall sheets.

Corrugated sheeting has a very affordable price, is easily mounted on a frame and perfectly protects walls from moisture, mechanical stress and ultraviolet radiation. The sheets are relatively light in weight, so they can be installed independently, not only on a frame made of profile pipes, but also on a wooden beam.

Garage Doors

You can install gates of different designs on the frame structure of the garage - sectional, roller, up-and-over and swing.

The easiest to make yourself are swing double-leaf gates, and other structures, as a rule, are manufactured and installed by experienced craftsmen.

Swing gates are made of metal and (or) wood. To create a frame frame, a profile pipe or timber is used, which is sheathed with metal sheets, corrugated sheets, siding or just a board. Such gates are not difficult to manufacture if they are made according to the exact dimensions taken from the opening. Such a structure will not cost much, and when insulated, it will become a reliable barrier against the cold in winter, which is extremely necessary if the owner of the building also plans to equip it with a small heated workshop. The width of the gate ranges from 2.5 to 4 meters, but if they need to be made wider, then when drawing up a drawing of the future frame, this point must be foreseen in advance.

In addition to the material for the frame and its lining, to make the gate you will need powerful hinged hinges for two leaves, that is, 4 pieces, and for a door located in one of the halves and opening separately - 2 more pieces. To securely close the garage, purchase a lock that is completely hidden behind the front door panel, leaving only a small hole for the key to enter.

Sheathed with sheet steel, they will be excessively massive for a frame garage, and they are not particularly needed for such a structure.

It’s easier to assemble wooden gates, or at least cover them with light corrugated sheeting or siding, matching all the other walls of the garage.

Examples of building a frame garage - step by step

Insulated garage with gable roof

This version of a wooden frame garage has a completely “major” and aesthetic appearance, so it will not spoil the landscape design of even the most equipped area.

Illustration	Brief description of the work stages performed
	So, the first step, after clearing the site of the fertile soil layer, is to mark the territory, that is, determine the right angles of the perimeter of the garage along with the blind area. As you can see in the illustration, special cast-offs made from boards are used for this purpose. Their installation is carried out according to the instructions presented above.
	Inside the fenced area, the location of the foundation pillars is marked. In this case, the pillars are planned to be installed only along the perimeter of the garage, that is, only under the future walls of the structure. On the long sides, in addition to the corner ones, two more supports are placed with equal spacing, on the short rear one - one in the center. An additional post is placed in place of the vertical posts of the future gate opening. So that the pits are not larger than necessary, and the formwork fits into them freely, the work is best done manually, periodically fitting a box made of boards to the pit. The slats are nailed on top of the box so that a square hole remains in the center of the structure, into which a cement-asbestos pipe will later be installed.
	The depth of the pit depends on the structure of the soil, but it must be at least 500 mm. Medium-fraction crushed stone, 50÷70 mm thick, is poured into the finished pits, which should be well compacted. A wooden formwork box is installed on top of the crushed stone.
	The next step is to fill the formwork with a concrete solution consisting of sand and cement in a ratio of 3:1. The solution must fill the entire internal space of the box, so it is distributed using a trowel or spatula 120÷150 mm wide.
	Having filled the formwork box, a pipe with a diameter of 150÷170 mm is installed in its central part. It can be made from different materials, but asbestos concrete is most often used, as it is resistant to external influences. Having installed the pipe in a plastic solution, they take a short pause so that the concrete sets, and then the space around it is filled with crushed stone, which should also be compacted. The pipe should rise above the ground surface by 120÷150 mm.
	A pipe rigidly fixed in the pit is filled with concrete mortar, and when pouring it, it must be “bayoneted”, for example, by trimming reinforcement. This process is carried out so that all the air comes out of the mass, which can form voids that weaken the structure.
	Immediately after pouring the solution, long metal embedded elements are installed in the pipes, made of strips with a thickness of at least 5 mm, and the height must exceed the depth of the pipe by the thickness of the strapping beam. On the embedded strips, two holes in height are pre-drilled. The distance between the holes is calculated taking into account the cross section of the beam, since it is to them that it will be attached. Mortgage strips should be maximally shifted and turned in the pipe to the inner platform, which will be located under the garage. Further work is carried out only after the concrete has completely hardened.
	This time can be spent usefully. The entire site, from which the top layer of soil has been removed, is covered with medium-fraction crushed stone. The embankment must be evenly distributed and compacted. Crushed stone should fill the entire thickness of the removed soil. Work on the distribution of crushed stone can be carried out using a regular hoe, and compacted with a manual tamper.
	The next step is to lay a waterproofing material - roofing felt - on the prepared pillars in two layers. Slots are made in its segments, through which the roofing material is put on metal fastening loops protruding from the pillars. After this, you can proceed to the installation of the lower framing of the frame, consisting of timber with a cross-section of 170×150 mm. The timber is laid on the pillars and pressed against the loops embedded in them.
	At the corners, the strapping beam is connected into half a tree, but is not firmly fastened until the diagonals are measured - their length should be the same. If necessary, the position is adjusted. The beam ends at the border of the garage door - this is where additional supports are provided.
	To secure the timber to the metal hinges, self-tapping screws 100 mm long and 10 mm in diameter, with turnkey heads, are used. You should not choose fasteners of a smaller diameter, as they must reliably hold the base in a given position throughout its entire service life.
	The next step is to drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm through the holes in the metal hinges in the timber, into which the fastening screws are screwed into the screwdriver until they stop using a special hexagonal head.
	Next, on top of the strapping beam, a frame is assembled from a board 50 mm thick, connected at the corners also in half a tree. The frame is laid with a distance of 40÷50 mm from the outer edge of the beam and screwed with self-tapping screws 80 mm long.
	A solid frame is temporarily assembled, which will block the future gate opening - this is necessary so that the frame board is equally secured along the same line on both sides of the opening. Later, its excess part is sawed off.
	Next, the frame needs to be marked for installation of vertical frame parts, which must be mounted with the same pitch, which can be 400÷500 mm.
	After the markings have been made, the corner posts of the frame are attached to the bottom trim. They are first grabbed with long 100 mm self-tapping screws, screwed in at an angle, and then fixed with metal perforated corners.
	Before fastening, all racks are set to the building level. If you plan to install windows in the garage, then openings are formed and framed for them. The horizontal crossbars installed for them will add rigidity to the structure.
	The horizontal bars are also fixed with self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at an angle. In some cases, in addition to vertical racks, diagonal ties are installed. They will also give the structure strength and prevent the frame from deforming.
	After installing and fixing the racks, the top trim is installed, which consists of timber or boards laid in two layers. The top trim must be strong, since it connects the vertical posts of the frame, and elements of the roof truss system are also installed on it. Particular care must be taken to strengthen the gate opening and the wall frame around it. To do this, the areas around the opening are sheathed with plywood sheets, and the opening is additionally framed with boards or timber.
	After completing work on the frame, they proceed to assembling the elements (trusses) of the rafter system. It is convenient to assemble them on a horizontal plane, that is, on the ground. To do this, the rafter legs are laid out at the desired angle, and then fastened to the ceiling beam (tightening). A stand (headstock) is installed between the ridge connection and the middle of the tightening, which will add additional rigidity and strength to the structure.
	The joints of wooden parts are reinforced with perforated metal plates, fixed with self-tapping screws 40÷50 mm long. In this way, the required number of rafter pairs is assembled.
	The next step is to mark the location of the finished trusses of the rafter system on the long sides of the upper trim. They are usually installed in increments of 600 mm. Next, the rafter pairs are lifted onto the frame and laid out upside down.
	Then they are installed - the triangles are turned over one by one and installed on the top trim, according to the applied markings. First, the gable structural elements are fixed and reinforced with additional posts; there can be five or seven of them, together with the central headstock. These elements will not only strengthen the structure, but will also serve as a lathing for the decorative cladding of the pediment. Then a cord is stretched between the two outer triangles, which will be easy to navigate when exposing the remaining rafter pairs.
	The trusses are secured to the harness using special wide metal angles with perforations. Through these holes they are fixed to the tie bars and rafters, as well as the top trim. The corners must be installed on both sides of the installed rafters, since only in this case will they be rigidly fixed. After securing them in the lower part, it is worth fixing them together and along the line of the ridge.
	When the roof structure is installed, it is covered from the garage side with a waterproofing film, which is secured to the ceiling beams using staples and a stapler. The film is necessary if the ceiling is planned to be insulated.
	At the bottom, the film is additionally fixed with sheathing slats 20 mm thick, onto which the garage ceiling lining will later be fixed. To secure the boards, self-tapping screws 40÷50 mm long are used. The installation pitch of the slats is approximately 250 ÷ 300 mm.
	The next step is to lay insulation material on top of the film between the ceiling beams on the attic side - most often this is one of the types of mineral wool. The mats must fit snugly against the sides of the beams, otherwise much of the thermal insulation effect will be lost.
	A waterproofing, vapor-permeable membrane is mounted on top of the insulation, which will protect the thermal insulation from atmospheric moisture. The canvases are overlapped by 150÷170 mm and fastened together with moisture-resistant tape.
	The next step is to sheathe the slopes of the rafter system along the rafters with boards 10 mm thick or with plywood sheets (OSB). If boards are selected, then you should not waste time leveling them in advance, since the edges of the formed planes can be quite leveled after installation is completed by walking along the intended straight line with a hand-held circular saw.
	The result is neat roof slopes. To carry out ventilation, a gap must be left on the ridge between the slopes, which will be closed with ridge elements after laying the roofing material.
	Next, the plywood or boards on the roof slopes must be protected from atmospheric moisture, so a bitumen-based waterproofing material is laid on their surface, starting from the eaves. Rolled waterproofing materials can be self-adhesive, or they can be secured with staples or nails. The material is overlapped by 120÷150 mm.
	The laid sheets are immediately marked for fastening the sheathing. If flexible tiles are used to cover the roof, then sheathing is not needed, since this type of material is attached directly to the waterproofing.
	For the convenience of carrying out work, slats are temporarily attached to the laid canvas, on which you can rest your feet.
	The next step is to attach the counter-lattice slats, the ridge board and the eaves batten to the roof slopes. The cross-sectional size of the slats is usually 50×15 mm; they are fixed to the slopes using self-tapping screws.
	In addition, at the same stage, the wall frame is simultaneously covered with moisture-resistant and heat-resistant plasterboard or plywood (OSB). Horizontal slats are fixed on top of the sheathing, which are necessary for fixing the decorative finishing of the walls. In this embodiment, they are placed in increments of 600 mm, since this distance is optimal for securing the plank sheathing. After the fixation of the slats is completed, frames are installed in the window openings, if natural lighting is provided in the garage design.
	Next, wind boards are installed. Their installation must be done so that they are higher than the surface of the slopes to the height of the roofing material, since they are designed to protect the gaps that inevitably form between the relief roofing and the waterproofing. In addition to these areas, wind boards are also fixed along the eaves.
	Then the first layer of decorative wood sheathing is applied to the wall sheathing slats. The width of the boards is 130÷150 mm, thickness 10÷12 mm, they are secured with self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be recessed into the wood.
	To arrange a water drainage system, places for securing the gutter brackets are marked on the eaves boards.
	The next step is the installation of the roofing covering, in this case, it is rubber-composite slate with imitation of natural tiles. The size of a slate sheet with a thickness of 2÷3 mm can be 2000×900 or 1000×500 mm. Installation is carried out from the cornice, the covering is laid from left to right.
	After laying and securing the roofing covering, it is covered with ridge elements on the ridge, which are also mounted with an overlap.
	Then, on the eaves, under the roof overhangs, a gutter is installed in holders. A second layer of wood paneling is installed on the walls. This layer is fixed to already fixed boards and covers the gaps between them.
	The walls inside the garage are insulated with mineral wool, which is laid between the frame posts. Mats should occupy all the space and fit snugly against wooden parts.
	The insulating material is covered with a waterproofing material, which is a dense polyethylene film. It is secured to the frame bars with staples using a stapler.
	Next, starting from the ceiling, all internal surfaces of the garage are covered with moisture-resistant plasterboard. Tile can be laid on top of this material, or it can be primed and painted with acrylic paints for facade work - at the request of the owners.

Two issues that were not addressed in the description of the construction of this garage are its gates and the arrangement of the floor, and they need to be clarified.

In this case, the project provided for the installation of an up-and-over gate, the leaf of which, when opened, rises and goes under the garage ceiling. This structure is designed, manufactured and installed by specialists. Of course, another version of the gate can be installed on the opening, including one that can be made independently from metal or wood.

As for the floor, it can be either wooden or concrete. In addition, an inspection hole is almost always installed in the garage.

Wooden frame garage without insulation with a shed roof

This simple garage design is perfect for building in a summer cottage, and it can be built by any motorist who knows how to work with a hammer, screwdriver and saw. In this case, all operations can be performed independently, without the involvement of outside help.

This version of the frame garage is installed on a columnar foundation, which is located around the entire perimeter of the building. The first stages of work are carried out in the same way as in the previous case considered, that is, marking the site, clearing it of sod, determining the location of the pillars, digging pits and installing foundation supports. True, a plank floor is provided, that is, the number of pillars is increasing - it is necessary to provide intermediate ax points for the log.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	A beam of the lower strapping of the structure is laid on the foundation pillars. In this case, a bar with a section of 150 × 120 mm is taken. Then the diagonals of the resulting frame are measured, and the frame is finally fixed. The next step on the intermediate pillars of the foundation are installed on the edge of the board with a section of 150 × 50 mm, which are attached to the strapping beam using special supporting perforated metal brackets. Boards will serve as a reliable basis for the installation of a wooden floor.
	The next stage is the installation of front corner vertical posts made of timber with a section of 150 × 120 mm. They must have a height of at least 2500 mm.
	Next, mark the opening into which the garage door will be installed. According to the markings, two more beams are mounted at a distance of 2700 mm from each other. That is, 1350 mm is set aside from the center of the trim beam in both directions - at these points the edges of the vertical posts will be located, delimiting the doorway on the sides.
	The next step is to form the base of the rear wall frame. It also consists of four racks, spaced at equal intervals, made of timber of the same section, but having a height of 2300 mm. Due to the difference in height of the front and rear walls, the required slope of the pitched roof is formed.
	All vertical bars are secured to the frame using powerful metal corners that secure the posts on both sides.
	As you can see in the illustration, the top trim in this design differs from the project discussed above. Here, the front and rear posts are separately connected to each other by a horizontal beam, forming the basis for mounting the rafter legs. Before installing the rafters, their location is marked - in this case, the distance between them is 400 mm. To cover, you will need ten boards 5500 long with a cross section of 120×30÷50 mm. They are installed on the edge and secured with metal corners.
	Next, the midpoints of the sides of the garage are measured and marked. In these places, vertical posts are installed, which are connected to each other by a horizontal crossbar, which should firmly support the rafter legs from below. The rafters are also attached to this crossbar using metal corners.
	The next step is to connect the side posts in the middle with boards, which can be fixed to the posts with corners or one of the connections used to fasten the timber. As a result, the frame of the side wall appears to be divided into four sections.
	To make the frame more rigid, each of the four sections is strengthened with a diagonal tie, on which cuts are made along the edges. In the upper part, the board is installed in a groove cut into a vertical stand.
	The underside of the diagonal tie is installed and secured in the corner between the horizontal lintel and the vertical middle post of the frame.
	The result is a lathing that resembles the division into sections of the British flag. It should be noted that the frame can be simplified by attaching several less massive ones between the main posts. This becomes possible due to the fact that the structure of the garage roof is quite light, and the wall cladding is made of thin boards.
	Next, sheathing boards 20 mm thick are laid across the rafters. They are mounted at a distance of 50 mm from each other. If flexible bitumen shingles are used for the coating, then the distance is reduced to 3 mm, and it is necessary for possible expansion of the wood, which can occur with high air humidity. Instead of boards, moisture-resistant plywood or OSB is also laid on the rafters.
	This illustration clearly shows what a shed roof structure is for a frame garage.
	Having completed the installation of the plank sheathing, on the front side of the garage the ends of the floor beams are covered with a wind board, which is fastened with self-tapping screws. Their caps should be recessed into the wood.
	The next step is to install the roofing material on the sheathing. It can be used as corrugated sheeting or slate, which is familiar to everyone. Of course, if financial capabilities allow, then other, more expensive materials are used for coating.
	If the garage is covered with entire sheets of corrugated sheets, then it is laid from right to left, overlapping two waves, since the slope of the slope is small. When using slate for the roof, which will be installed in two or three rows, its installation is carried out starting from the eaves, and also from left to right.
	After covering the roof, you can move on to laying the wooden floor. It uses a board 150 mm wide and 40 mm thick. It is imperative to leave a gap of 3÷4 mm between the boards, which will keep the floor level and prevent the boards from deforming due to temperature changes, changes in air humidity, or direct water ingress, for example, when parking a car in a garage in rainy weather.
	The garage frame ready for sheathing should look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	The frame of the walls is sheathed with boards installed in two layers. For the first of them, which will be almost invisible from the outside, an unedged board with a thickness of 100÷120 mm and different widths can be used.
	The outer layer should still have a more aesthetic appearance, so it is best to use a planed, antiseptic-treated board, siding or profiled metal sheet. Unedged boards of the first layer are installed with gaps of 80÷100 mm, and for external cladding, boards are installed with a gap of 2÷3 mm. Moreover, these gaps should be on the boards of the first layer, so that through gaps do not form.
	Then the upper area above the gate opening is sheathed. To do this, you need to decide on the height - it should be such that not only a car can easily enter the garage, but also its owner can freely enter, without the risk of hitting his head due to inattention. So, if the height of the front wall of the garage is 2500 mm, then the opening can be, say, 2200 mm. And from this it follows that its upper limit drops by 300 mm.
	So, at a height of 2200 mm from the floor, grooves are cut out in the vertical posts into which the edges of the horizontal timber beam are inserted. A beam with a cross section of 50x50 mm must fit into the grooves by at least 50 mm. Then, first a layer of unedged boards and then decorative cladding are attached to the upper gable beam and the fixed crossbar on the outside.
	The finished opening is carefully measured, and in this case every millimeter must be taken into account. According to the measurements taken, taking into account the gaps of 5 mm on the hinges, shields for the gates are made from boards 20 mm thick. It should be noted that if the sashes are planned to be additionally sheathed from the inside with a second layer of planks or plywood, then a board for assembling the panels can be taken with a thickness of 12–15 mm. To lay the boards correctly, that is, evenly and while maintaining temperature gaps, you need a hard and absolutely flat surface. To do this, you can use plywood sheets laid out on a flat area in the yard. To make the gate look neat, it is best to use boards that have the same width of 100÷120 mm. The shield is fastened with jumper bars installed in the upper and lower parts of the sashes, with a distance of 150 mm from their edges. To provide rigidity and maintain the stability of the shield, a diagonal board is fixed between the horizontal jumpers. For additional rigidity, the jumpers and the diagonal board are connected to each other with metal corners.
	The finished sash is turned over, and the location of massive hinges is marked on it, which are screwed through horizontal crossbars installed on the inside of the sash with bolts with a diameter of 8 ÷ 10 mm.
	Next, the doors are placed one by one in the gate opening, on the sides of which the hinge attachment points are marked at the location. When closing the wings, a small gap of 3 ÷ 5 mm should remain between them, since they should not touch each other.
	The hinges are screwed through the sheathing boards into the frame racks using massive self-tapping screws or using bolts, under which through holes are drilled. When measuring the location and fastening of the gate hinges, it is necessary to control the free opening and closing of the leaves. If it turns out that the gate leaves are rubbing against the sheathing boards in some areas, then these areas must be corrected with a planer.
	To equip an exit ramp for a car along the edges of the gate width, powerful bars are installed on the edges of the foundation pillars and fixed to the lower trim of the structure, having a cross section of 250 × 180 mm. The bars used for this purpose must be well impregnated with bitumen, thanks to which they will acquire the necessary hydrophobicity and resistance to decay. If it is possible to purchase impregnated wooden sleepers, it is best to use them - they are ideal for installing support beams for the entrance ramp, as they are designed for heavy loads and are protected from moisture penetration.
	There may be two or three such guides. The front ends are sunk into the ground, leaving only the upper part of the beam on the surface.
	A board 40 mm thick and no more than 100 mm wide is nailed or screwed onto the fixed beams. It is recommended to choose a board that does not have large knots, as well as a large number of small and medium ones, since these defects weaken the wood, and the ramp can quickly crack under the load of a car.
	Upon completion of the work, the finished garage, which has the simplest design and is built from available materials, may look like the one shown in the illustration. If the building is sheathed with a different façade cladding material, it can acquire a more respectable appearance. In addition, nothing prevents the interior from being insulated and finished, which will allow the garage to be used in winter, for example, as a workshop. It will be enough to install convector heaters indoors and provide good lighting.
	If over time there is a desire to make an inspection hole in this garage, it will be quite simple to do. Markings are made on the wooden flooring and a rectangle is cut along it, which will correspond to the perimeter of the future pit. Then a pit is dug, its walls are strengthened and equipped. The only thing that needs to be foreseen in advance, even when building a garage, is the location of the foundation pillars. It is necessary to plan so that there are no supports in the central part of the floor. This will not affect the strength of the flooring in any way, since the main load falls on the area where the wheels of the car will be located.

No motorist will refuse a viewing hole

A garage probably won’t be complete if it doesn’t have an inspection hole. And if conditions make it possible to equip it, then this should not be neglected. Step-by-step instructions for a ready-made garage are in a special publication on our portal.

So, it is quite obvious that if you want and have basic construction skills, building a frame garage yourself on the territory of a summer cottage or next to a private house is a completely solvable task. The advantage of such a building is the relative ease of assembly, and the possibility of using high-quality facing materials will make such a garage outwardly indistinguishable from a capital one.

To conclude the publication, here is another example of the construction of a frame garage.

Video: the work of craftsmen constructing a frame garage

Frame construction is considered the most convenient option for arranging a garage. Among its advantages are ease of installation and the ability to do the work yourself in a relatively short time. At the same time, the master is faced with an important question - which foundation for a frame garage is better. Therefore, it is worth considering what needs to be taken into account before starting construction, and what preparatory work needs to be carried out? It is important to know the rules for laying the main types of foundation.

What to consider when planning your garage

In order for the building to serve as long as possible and at the same time not require additional investments for reconstruction or restoration, it is necessary to think through the main points of laying the foundation even before the start of construction.

First, a study of the soil type is required. So, on sandy soil you can use almost any type of foundation, but on unstable soils you need to fill a foundation that will actively resist heaving forces.

Due to the relatively light weight of a frame building for a garage, experts do not recommend the use of a columnar foundation on any type of soil.

Secondly, an important part of the design is the analysis of the location of the groundwater level. The method of making the waterproofing layer depends on this parameter.

Thirdly, in most of the territory of Russia, the soil is subject to freezing in winter, and therefore it is necessary to know exactly the depth of soil freezing in order to establish a foundation below this level. This will increase the strength of the building. Common options for a foundation for a garage are the following:

• tape;
• pile;
• monolithic slab.

The construction of a frame garage without a foundation is possible, if only large elements are used for the construction. Also, for this, it is necessary to make sure that the soil is reliable by pressing it. The absence of a foundation does not eliminate the need for waterproofing the bottom of the garage.

Preparatory work

The first thing a person planning to build a garage needs to do is draw a plan for the future building. To do this, it is necessary to determine the purpose of the structure. Will it only be used to store the car. Or the plan should include a viewing hole to carry out feasible repairs.

In this room, it can also be planned to place a cellar for storing vegetables and preparations, or provide a place for car parts and work tools. All this affects the size.

If the garage is intended for one vehicle, then its dimensions must be planned so that no less than 1.5 m remains from the car to the wall of the structure in all directions.

As soon as it was possible to determine the size and internal content of the garage, it remains to clear a place for construction. It is necessary to remove branches, leaves, grass and debris that will interfere with work. The fertile soil layer is also removed. The main thing is that the construction site is dry, level and clean.

The final stage of the preparatory work will be the marking of the perimeter of the future structure. To do this, you can use a rope, stakes, and to simplify the task, a laser ruler and other devices. Much attention must be paid to the angles, which must be strictly 90 degrees, otherwise the walls of the building will be crooked, which will affect the strength and appearance of the structure.

Tape base for frame construction

A strip foundation for a frame garage is one of the common options for this type of building. This is facilitated by the following advantages of this solution:

• such a foundation is strong and can withstand structures of impressive size and weight;
• subject to building codes, it is resistant to deformation and shrinkage;
• the ability to make a durable floor based on concrete screed;
• You can build such a foundation with your own hands.

The disadvantages of this solution include the high cost compared to a columnar foundation, the need to use special equipment and perform additional work, such as installing and dismantling formwork. In addition, such a base can be installed at certain times of the year and only in good weather. When working with it, low temperatures and high humidity or partial precipitation are not allowed.

Before you start building the building itself, you need to wait for the concrete to harden for several weeks.

After the preparatory work is completed, a trench needs to be dug along the perimeter of the construction. Its depth should be below the soil freezing level. In most cases this is about 50 cm.

The next stage of work will be the installation of formwork. For those who want to save on materials, it is possible to use simple boards made of cheap wood. For more expensive construction, formwork can be purchased or rented.

A cushion of sand and crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the trench. The next layer will be waterproofing. If necessary, the future foundation can be reinforced, and then concrete mortar will be poured into the prepared trench. During operation, the mixture must be compacted using special tools.

Afterwards, the structure is left until the concrete hardens. The foundation must first be covered with film and watered periodically to prevent the top layer of concrete from drying out.

After the structure has sufficiently hardened and the formwork has been dismantled, it is necessary to check the resulting foundation for strength. Firstly, its horizontal line must be flat everywhere. The maximum permissible difference is 1 cm. If an error is noticed somewhere, it is corrected by applying cement mortar to lower sections of the tape to level the surface. In this case, the mixture used is required to be an order of magnitude thicker than that poured into the formwork.

Secondly, all angles must be 90 degrees. All detected deviations from the norm must be urgently corrected, and only after this can we begin lining the foundation and constructing the garage.

Another option for making a strip foundation for a garage can be seen in the following video:

Monolithic slab for frame garage

In rare cases, a monolithic foundation can be used for a frame garage. Compared to tape, it is distinguished by greater strength on unreliable soils and resistance to deformation and loads.

The disadvantages of this solution include higher cost, the need for special equipment, a large amount of work and the time it takes to fill the base.

In addition, a monolithic foundation requires more careful planning. So, if, after completing work on the garage, the owner wants to additionally build an inspection hole or cellar, this will be impossible.

When pouring a monolithic foundation, the procedure is similar to making a strip foundation, only instead of a trench around the perimeter of the garage you will need to dig a foundation pit. Then the formwork is installed, a sand-crushed stone cushion and a layer of waterproofing are laid on the bottom. Installation of fittings in this case is mandatory. An important part of the work will be pouring and compacting the concrete.

Pouring a monolithic slab requires a lot of time and effort. If the process was not completed within one day, the foundation must be covered with a waterproofing layer. Work should be continued no later than 12 hours later. If the deadline is missed, you can resume pouring the foundation only after 5 days.

Since this design requires more material, it will take longer to harden. Throughout the entire period, the process must be monitored, periodically moistening the top layer. At the end of the period when the layer hardens, all that remains is to remove the formwork, fill the resulting cracks with soil, and level the base horizontally. The convenience of this solution is that there is no need to worry about the arrangement of the floor if there is no need for additional thermal insulation.

Pile foundation for garage

A pile-grillage foundation gives special strength to a structure built on unstable soils. In the case of arranging a garage, this method is rarely used. Based on the type of installation, the following types of piles are distinguished:

• printed;
• screw.

The first option necessarily requires special machines for installing supports. The second option can be used when making the base with your own hands. To immerse the structures in the ground, the effort of 2-3 people will be enough. Based on material, foundation elements are divided into 3 types:

• reinforced concrete;
• steel;
• wooden.

The first type of piles is universal, since it is the most durable. Steel piles can also serve for a long time, but subject to treatment with an anti-corrosion coating. Wooden piles are of little use in construction due to their extremely low strength.

After determining the dimensions of the garage and marking the perimeter, the installation of piles begins. The supports are driven in or screwed in at the corners of the structure, and then around the perimeter. In this case, the distance from one pile to another is no more than 1.5 m.

A prerequisite for installing piles is to immerse them vertically in the ground. This parameter is checked especially carefully after completion of work.

As soon as the last support is in the ground, it is necessary to cut the piles to the same length. The horizontal evenness of the base should also be checked. After this, the hollow screw piles are filled with concrete mortar. Heads are installed on their upper ends. Finally, the grillage is installed and the tying of the piles begins.

How to equip the floor

When using strip or pile foundations, an important stage of work is the installation of the floor. Most often, the cement screed method is used to ensure strength. With this choice, you first need to equip an inspection hole by digging a recess of the required size and securing the walls of the structure.

First, the floor is covered with gravel, which acts as drainage. This layer needs to be compacted. Sometimes this is done using a press. With enough time for construction, you can allow the gravel to come to the desired form naturally by suspending work for a while. The next layer requires sand, which also requires compaction.

Waterproofing is laid on top of the drainage layer, followed by thermal insulation. This stage is especially important if you will be working in the garage during the winter months. Before pouring cement, a welded mesh is installed as reinforcement. To complete the work, you just have to wait for the solution to dry.

The choice of foundation for a frame garage depends on the type of soil and the features of the structure. Experts often recommend using strip foundations for such structures. Pile foundations or a monolithic slab are applicable here. Regardless of the choice, the main thing is to follow the foundation technology so that the constructed garage lasts as long as possible.

Even a person who does not have special knowledge in construction will say with confidence that a capital structure must be built on a solid foundation. A structure such as a garage is no exception. The quality of use and service life of the building depend on the foundation. And you will not doubt the strength of the foundation you made with your own hands.

The need for a foundation for a garage

The need for a foundation is indisputable, as it gives the building stability and maintains the integrity of the walls. In a structure such as a garage, a concrete base insulates all objects in the room from moisture coming from the ground. In a garage without a foundation, the metal parts of the car are susceptible to rapid corrosion.

The basis for buildings can be:

• natural;
• artificial.

The soil located under the garage foundation, which, due to its natural characteristics, can provide stability to the structure, can be used as a natural foundation. A soil composition that has these features is found infrequently, so it requires additional strength, that is, the laying of an artificial base.

A reliable foundation for a garage is necessary when the soil in the area is unstable or has other features that further affect the integrity of the structure of the building.

Before starting construction work to install the foundation, it is necessary to study the properties and qualities of the soil. Since there are several types of it, not all of them are suitable for the construction of structures.

There are various methods for improving the quality of the soil, which help make its properties suitable for installing a foundation.

The main types of soil include:

1. Rocky with a solid structure.
2. Consisting of large fragments of rocks.
3. Sandy.
4. Clay formations.
5. Peatlands.

If we talk about the reliability of the foundation, then the rocky type of soil is the best option for building a garage. It appears as hardened volcanic emissions and mixtures of rocks pressed tightly together. It lies in a continuous or fissured massif. This soil is ready for the construction of a garage on its surface, without installing a foundation.

Coarse clastic soil contains gravel, as well as fragments of crystalline formations. The peculiarity of this soil is that it consists of 50% fragments and grains exceeding 2 mm. Unlike the previous type of soil, it does not consist of a solid structure.

Since the size of the constituent coarse-clastic soils is different, it is customary to divide them into types:

• boulder (block);
• pebble (crushed stone).

The foundation for a garage in such soil should be deepened by 50 cm.

Sandy soil is one of the main ones. It contains about 50% of the material with a cross section of more than 2 mm. A distinctive feature of this soil is flowability and lack of plasticity. Under the influence of moisture and load, this soil tends to become very compacted.

One of the unfavorable soils for laying a foundation for a garage is clay soil. It reacts to different conditions: when it dries, it can shrink, when there is a high degree of humidity, it can form landslides, and at low temperatures it can swell. This happens because the structure of clay soil has a scaly shape with cavities. Due to this, moisture accumulates in the pores of the clay, which contributes to the viscosity of the entire soil. In this case, it is necessary to install a pile foundation, and the laying should be done below the freezing level.

The high content of plant residues in peat bogs makes this soil unreliable for the construction of foundations. As a rule, this soil is highly moist and differs in that it tends to compress unevenly. This characteristic makes it practically unsuitable for creating a strong foundation. If there is a need for construction on this soil, it is replaced with sandy soil. This case involves installing a foundation in the form of screw piles. Perhaps this basis will be the only way out of this situation.

Preparation: what material to choose, pros and cons

Various materials are used in the construction of a garage. The most popular of them, having all the necessary characteristics, are:

1. Cinder blocks.
2. Foam blocks.
3. Expanded clay blocks.

Cinder blocks are a very popular material for the construction of foundations and walls of small buildings. In its production, a slag concrete mixture is used, consisting of sand, ash, small particles of gravel, expanded clay, and slag. Due to its relative strength and simple masonry, this material is widely used for installing foundations for garages.

Cinder blocks are made hollow and solid. Empty blocks differ in the volume of hollow cells. For the foundation of the garage it is necessary to use solid blocks.

Cinder blocks used as a foundation have their advantages:

• it is an inexpensive material;
• it is durable and reliable to use;
• due to its dimensions, the speed of laying the foundation increases;
• since concrete is needed only for gluing the blocks together, the cost of this foundation is much less than for a strip or slab foundation;
• Has a high level of fire resistance.

The foundation of cinder blocks has its drawbacks:

• this material is not intended for use in clayey, loose or swelling soils;
• under transverse loads, the cinder block has low strength characteristics;
• low level of moisture resistance.

Foam block is one of the most common foundation materials. It is one of the types of cellular foam concrete. When making foam blocks, cement, sand and water are used, to which a foaming agent is added.

The advantages of this material are as follows:

• it does not use impurities harmful to humans;
• has thermal insulation and sound insulation characteristics;
• has a low coefficient of shrinkage and water absorption;
• fire-resistant, thanks to which it can withstand direct exposure to fire for 120 minutes;
• its properties and qualities do not change under the influence of alternating freezing or thawing;
• has a low specific gravity (0.4–0.8 tons/m³);
• has low hygroscopicity (the material is able to remain on the surface of water for more than 20 days);
• foam blocks are easy to process, groove, drill;
• The service life of this material is more than 100 years.

The disadvantages of foam blocks include the following:

• this material has relative fragility and low bending strength;
• has high moisture absorption, which is why it requires careful finishing and waterproofing;
• Suitable for the foundation of small buildings only.

The use of expanded clay concrete base allows you to design buildings that are taller than for a foam block base.

The basis for using this material is expressed in the following positive criteria:

• is an effective heat-insulating material;
• expanded clay concrete blocks have good resistance to biological influences;
• after building a garage with this foundation, the structure gives minimal shrinkage;
• no toxic substances are released when exposed to open fire;
• the composition of the material is safe for humans;
• This material is classified as radiation safety class 1. Due to its properties, it accumulates harmful radiation and retains it;
• its cost is lower than a brick of the same volume;

The disadvantages of expanded clay concrete base include:

• under dynamic influence, blocks can collapse or crack;
• It is mandatory to use a waterproofing and heat-insulating layer;
• the material is inconvenient to process. When exposed, uneven edges are formed.

The strip foundation has the form of a reinforced concrete structure located along the intended perimeter. This foundation can be made of various building materials: brick, concrete blocks, or be a monolithic concrete base.

The service life of the foundation depends on the material used when laying it:

• strip foundation made of brickwork will last from 40 to 60 years;
• block construction will remain strong for 50 to 80 years;
• the monolithic base will not require repair for 150 years.

The advantages of the tape base include the following:

• this foundation is easily built thanks to a simple creation technology;
• the base is suitable for different building materials;
• if you plan to organize a cellar in the garage, then the base will serve as walls;
• the tape base is not affected by sudden changes in temperature.

The disadvantages of this foundation include the following criteria:

• the organization of this foundation requires a large amount of material and auxiliary structures;
• when building a foundation, a lot of labor is required.

Calculation of the required quantity depending on the area, type of garage and the height of the foundation itself. Examples

The durability of the foundation is directly related to the correct calculation. The uniform distribution of the weight of the structure on the ground depends on this. Failure to comply with these conditions will lead to unpleasant consequences in the form of additional monetary costs for correcting deformations in the construction or repair of your car. Considering these points, before building the foundation it is necessary:

1. Draw up an accurate drawing of the future garage and its foundation.
2. Examine soil characteristics to determine the type of foundation.
3. Taking into account the information received, select the necessary materials for the base.

To make an accurate calculation of the parameters for the foundation for a garage, you need to know the characteristics of the soils lying on the construction site. The depth of the foundation for this building is determined by the distance of the freezing point from the surface of the earth.

Below is a table with soil load values:

To more conveniently calculate the load on the ground, you can use the values ​​in the table to apply a simple formula:

S=U/R, where S is the area of ​​the base, U is the weight acting on it, R is the measured values ​​of soil changes. All U and R parameters are determined by standardized tables.

When laying the foundation, regardless of the soil characteristics, you must adhere to the basic rule - the foundation must rest on solid soil located below the freezing point. The only exceptions are clay soil and peat bogs. In this case, it is advisable to use a pile foundation.

If the soil freezes from 10 to 30 cm, then the depth of the foundation can be made about 40 cm. It should be taken into account that under the foundation a cushion of gravel and sand is needed, the thickness of which should be at least 40 cm.

For a building such as a garage, the following types of foundation are used:

1. Pile.
2. Tape.
3. Slab.

Calculation of the required amount of concrete for this foundation is carried out by calculations using the following formula: S = 3.14·R², where S is the volume of the required amount of concrete in m³, R is the radius or perimeter of the pile column. The resulting figure must be multiplied by the length and total number of concrete pillars (piles).

If you use these computational techniques, you can easily calculate the concrete consumption in cubic meters.

To find out how much mixture is required per pile, you need to determine its diameter and length. As an example, the diameter of the pile will be 0.1 m and its length 2 m. These parameters must be applied to the formula 3.14·0.1²=0.0314. The resulting figure must be multiplied by the length of the pile: 0.0314·2=0.0628 m³ - this is how much is needed to make one concrete pile. Now it’s easy to calculate how much concrete will be needed for all piles. To do this, you need to multiply 0.0628 by the number of holes prepared for piles.

To calculate the required amount of concrete required for a strip base, it is necessary to have information about the height and width of the strip. Since it is rectangular in shape, its area is determined by multiplying these indicators. To determine the volume of the foundation, you will need to multiply its cross-sectional area by the length of the strip base. The total size of the tape structure consists of the sum of all volumes of the parts of the tape. The calculation of each part of the base is carried out according to the following formula: V=S·L, where S is the cross-sectional area of ​​the tape in meters, L is the length of the tape base in meters. The easiest way to make calculations is if the tape has the same cross-section around its entire perimeter. If it is equal to 0.16 m², with a length of 24 m, then by substituting these numbers into the formula, you get the following: V = 24·0.16= 3.84 m³. As a result, it became known how many cubes of concrete mixture are needed for a strip foundation. This option is only suitable for calculations of tape with the same cross-section.

How to determine the amount of solution if the strip base has a different cross-section? To do this, you need to multiply and then add the results, and the resulting figure will indicate the amount of concrete mixture consumption. If the cross-section of the base is 0.16 m² with a tape length of 14 m, 0.2 m² with a length of 6 m and 0.25 m² with a length of 8 m, then by applying these dimensions to the formula, you can see the following example: V = 14 0, 16+6·0.2+8·0.25=5.44 m³.

To calculate the required amount of concrete for a slab foundation, you should use the formula: V=S·H, where S is the total area of ​​the slab base, H is its required thickness. If it is necessary to create a slab foundation 12 m long, 8 m wide and 0.15 m high, then in the formula these values ​​look like this: V=12·8·0.15=14.4 m³.

If the garage has a basement, calculating the required amount of concrete will not be difficult. For this, the formulas used in calculating the slab base are useful. If its estimated length is 6 m, width is 3 m, the thickness of the base and walls is 0.15 m, and the height of the walls is 2 m, you need to make a calculation for the base and each wall, and then add up the results.

It follows from this: 3·6·0.15=2.7 m³ - the concrete mixture needed for the base.

Now you need to calculate the required volume of concrete for each wall. To do this, its length should be multiplied by its height and thickness: 6 2 0.15 = 1.8 m³. Since there are two similar walls in the basement, the value must be multiplied by two: 1.8·2=3.6 m³.

Using the same method we calculate the other two walls: 3·2·0.15=0.9·2=1.8 m³. The volume of concrete for each individual wall and base has been found. Now you need to calculate the total volume. To do this, add up all the results: 2.7 + 3.6 + 1.8 = 8.1 m³ - this is the amount of concrete needed to install the base and walls of the basement.

Tools for work

To lay the foundation you will need the following tools:

1. Concrete mixer.
2. Shovel, screw and bayonet shovel.
3. Cord and wooden pegs.
4. Jigsaw or hand saw.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Electric drill.
7. Containers for water and solution.
8. Pliers.
9. Yardstick.
10. Building level.
11. Large square.
12. Nails and screws.
13. Thick polyethylene.

Step-by-step instructions for the correct construction of different types of foundations

As mentioned earlier, different types of foundations can be applied to the garage structure, such as:

The location of each type of base must be marked using a measuring tape, pegs with scraps and a cord. The cast-offs are wooden planks nailed to pegs. The height of the pegs should be at least 50 cm from the ground. The cord is secured to a nail driven into the cast-off. Two parallel cords, the distance between which should be 40 cm, define the area of ​​the future trench. Then, depending on the type of foundation, holes, a pit or a trench are dug.

Tape

1. In accordance with the markings, dig a trench 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide.
2. Pour sand into the bottom of the trench, which must be compacted until a layer 20 cm thick is obtained. Sand is better compacted if it is made wet.
3. A layer of gravel 10 cm thick can be poured on top of the sand cushion.
4. After this, make a metal frame from reinforcing bars. To do this, use a cross section from 8 to 15 mm. Metal rods must be fixed with wire. The distance between the rods must be at least 20 cm. This design will give strength to the strip base.
5. Then you need to make formwork from boards or plywood. Its height should rise above the ground by at least 30 cm. To strengthen the structure, use wooden clamps or stops.
6. After installing the metal frame and formwork panels, you can proceed to pouring the concrete mixture. For a relatively small building, such as a garage, concrete grade M200 is suitable. Using a concrete mixer, make a ready-made solution that needs to be poured into the prepared formwork. The height of the concrete should be between 30 and 40 cm from the ground surface. It should be remembered that the strip base must be completed completely at one time.
7. After pouring concrete into the formwork, it must be covered with thick polyethylene or roofing felt. This must be done, as direct sunlight adversely affects concrete. From this, it can become covered with cracks due to uneven solidification. Once the foundation is poured, it takes time for it to harden. Depending on the ambient temperature, the time frame for strengthening the strip base ranges from 3 to 6 weeks. After the specified period, the strip foundation is ready for the construction of garage walls on it.

Tape-pile

Do-it-yourself slab construction

How to fill a columnar

Video: do-it-yourself foundation

When the type of foundation is chosen correctly, taking into account the characteristics of the soil, you can be confident in the reliability of the foundation for the garage.

On the territory of the Russian Federation for the car owner, there are two options for the development of events. The garage is either built on its own site, or inside a cooperative, which is allocated a certain territory. In the first case, one can use foundation for a garage slab, strip, pile type. In the second option, a floating slab or MZLF is usually used.

Operating features of the garage

A detached garage is preferable to built-in car storage spaces. Designed foundation for a garage taking into account the following nuances:

• the building is most often one-story, so even when choosing heavy wall material, natural tiles, prefabricated loads are insignificant
• The inspection pit dramatically increases the comfort of using the garage.
• there are aggressive environments inside
• floors on the ground are preferable
• the basement is used for storing vegetables

Therefore, developers choose foundations that allow them to produce a screed without additional costs:

Attention: The prefabricated loads from the weight of the building are not enough to compensate for heaving on clay soil. Therefore, drainage and the use of inert materials (foundation cushion + backfill) are necessary.

The optimal dimensions for a garage are 6 x 4 m, so even when choosing a slab foundation, the construction budget is quite acceptable for an individual developer. The cheapest option is traditionally considered to be a pile-screw grillage.

Manufacturing technology

Before you build foundation for a garage on the site or inside the garage cooperative, it is necessary to find out the structure of the soil and the depth of the groundwater level. To do this, it is not necessary to order a comprehensive survey; a couple of pits to a depth of 1.5 - 2.5 m are enough (without a basement, with an underground vegetable storage, respectively). The marking of the axes is standard, even if the project includes a basement or inspection pit, you can do without renting earth-moving equipment.

Caisson slab

A conventional slab foundation does not allow installing an inspection hole inside the garage, so coffered structures designed for such operating conditions are used. If necessary, you can make an underground vegetable storage facility with access to an inspection hole.

Under construction foundation for a garage caisson slab step by step:

On coarse, sandy, gravelly soils there is no need for additional reinforcement of the base. On heaving soils (clay, sandy loam, loam, silty sand) an underlying layer is required:

• sand 40 cm at low groundwater level with layer-by-layer compaction
• crushed stone 40 cm on wet soil, also compacted with a vibrating plate every 15 cm of inert material

A drainage system is integrated into the underlying layer, capable of draining the perched water that inevitably accumulates inside non-metallic materials with high drainage properties.

Attention: It is advisable to fill each element of the coffered slab in one go; the time between laying the mixture should not exceed 1.5 - 2 hours.

MZLF foundation

A non-recessed or shallow-recessed tape also allows you to make floors on the ground with a minimum construction budget. To do this, the inside of the MZLF is filled with sand, waterproofing is laid (hydroglass insulation or polyethylene), and along the perimeter the floor along the ground is cut off from the tape with damper tape.

Monolithic tape foundation for a garage has a maximum resource, is cast in one step using the following technology:

After removing the shields, the concrete surfaces of the MZLF are treated with waterproofing materials. Usually the tape is primed, then coated with bitumen or polymer mastic, and covered with Bikrost.

Attention: On heaving soils, the garage MZLF must be insulated under the sole, the floor on the ground, and the blind area. This building is operated with intermittent heating or no heating at all. Therefore, all structures immersed in the ground are insulated.

The prefabricated tape is constructed from FBS blocks mounted on the underlying layer or FL cushions. The construction technology differs from the previous case:

Attention: The garage is a lightweight building with a single- or gable roof, so an armored belt is not needed here. Laying walls or installing a frame building begins in blocks.

Pile grillage for garage

Indications for pile grillages for a garage are slopes, swampy, peat, bulk soils, high groundwater level, other complex geology, and topography of the building area. The piles pass through unstable layers and rest exclusively on soils with high design resistance. The building does not sag over time and maintains a stable geometry. The main design nuances are:

• the grillage should be below the ground surface or at the same level with it
• unlike MZLF tape, the base of the grillage does not have contact with the ground (minimum 7 cm gap), therefore sheet material is mounted on the sides underground to prevent soil from falling into this gap during operation
• monolithic technology for manufacturing a grillage using the heads of bored/screw piles is preferable

The order of operations when constructing a grillage on drilled piles is as follows:

The grillage is poured using standard technology, the connection of horizontal beams with vertical piles is provided by reinforcing bars.

The technology of a pile-screw grillage is much simpler:

Pull-out swelling loads do not affect screw piles, so there is no need to insulate the blind area or carry out drainage. If the project includes a cellar or inspection pit, these structures are insulated along the outer edges, since for them, swelling of the soil is fraught with destruction.

Attention: After concrete has gained strength, you can pour the floor over the ground, make a hole or cellar inside the perimeter of the garage. Cutting off the screed with a damper tape around the perimeter is mandatory, since the grillage beams do not rest on the ground.

Columnar garage foundation

It is possible to obtain a solid economic effect at the zero-cycle stage when using a columnar-grillage foundation for a garage only if the following conditions are met:

• soils with high design resistance
• no height differences of more than 1 m
• GWL below 1 m from the base of the pillars
• use of low grillage

The technology consists of stages:

Attention: It makes no sense to insulate the foundation, since on heaving soils it will inevitably topple over or be squeezed out to the surface.

The technological gap between the grillage and the ground is protected from the sides by sheet materials using standard technology. A cellar or pit for car inspection can be integrated into the ground floors (floating screed separated from the grillage beams by a damper).

Thus, an individual developer can choose any foundation option depending on the geology, topography, and operational features of the garage. The given nuances will help to avoid mistakes and rationally link the minimum possible construction budget with the maximum construction resource.