How to make filler floors with your own hands. Filled floor

When building a new house, carrying out finishing work in a new building and renovating an old residential premises, construction and finishing work must begin from the floor. It should be smooth, durable and serve as the basis for the interior of the entire room. Making a do-it-yourself filler floor is quite simple.

The filling floor is placed, as a rule, on concrete floors. Carrying out this stage of repair and finishing works has two goals.

  • Bringing the floor surface to a perfectly horizontal level. Floor slabs laid during construction do not always have an even horizontal arrangement. Differences can reach several centimeters.
  • Bringing the floor surface to an even state. The concrete slab laid on the floor may have pits or tubercles. These irregularities can destroy the finished floor covering.

In order to achieve both of these goals, pouring the floor also involves two stages: the main and the finishing. But before describing the technology, consider the materials used.

Materials for the construction of a poured floor

The main building material for forming a poured floor is a cement-sand mixture or a gypsum-based mixture. Now construction dry mixes are sold in construction supermarkets and online stores in a huge assortment. Most of the products are based on sediment-free cement and clean sifted sand. Plasticizers are also added to the mixture - additives that prevent the appearance of cracks when the screed hardens.

Floor leveling mixtures are also divided into rough and finishing. Their main difference is that the main (rough) mixture must be leveled after placement on the floor, while the finishing mixtures are self-leveling - they spread over the surface under the influence of gravity, forming a perfectly horizontal surface.

If necessary, you can make the mixture for leveling and filling the floor yourself. To do this, take one part of sediment-free cement (mainly M-500 grade) and clean sifted sand. The mixture of sand and cement is thoroughly mixed. If necessary, additives are added to it, which can be purchased at a building materials store. The following can also be used as additives to the cement-sand mixture:

  • PVA glue- which increases the strength of the finished product and significantly accelerates the hardening process of the screed;
  • liquid soap– this additive serves as a plasticizer and gives the cement-sand mixture the necessary plasticity, which helps fill the entire volume.

Self-formation of a poured floor

The process of self-filling the floor consists of several successive stages. They are quite simple and easy to repeat even for masters with not very high qualifications.

Step 1

If you are making repairs in an old room, then, first of all, you need to carry out dismantling existing floor coverings. Naturally, only what can be removed is removed. If your ceiling already has a concrete screed, it makes no sense to dismantle it.

Step 2

The exposed floor slab is carefully cleared, you can even vacuum it.

Step 3

Attentively inspect the condition of the ceiling, paying special attention to the condition of the joints between the walls and the floor in the room. It is in these areas that cracks most often form after the building has been in use for a long time or due to errors during construction.

Step 4

Even though we will be laying a layer of waterproofing, the cracks found must be carefully sealed. Through them, moisture from the poured floor can escape into neighboring rooms, which will significantly reduce its quality in this area. Besides, filling large gaps with foam or sealing them with concrete mortar serves as an additional means of insulating the room.

Step 5

Over the entire surface of the room a layer of plastic film is spread 150 micrometers thick. If the width of the film is not enough to cover the entire room, its strips when laid should overlap each other by about 10 centimeters. On the walls, the film should go above the upper edge of the future level of the screed.

Step 6

Around the walls of the room a damper or compensating tape is placed made of foamed polymer material. Its height should also correspond to the height of the future screed. Its main task is to prevent direct pressure from the concrete slab of the future screed on the walls of the room. As the temperature in the room rises, the screed slab begins to expand, and if it encounters a solid wall on its way rather than a compressible tape, cracks will form on the screed.

Step 7

Now you need determine the thickness of the screed. To do this, it is necessary to assess the horizontal position of the floor slab. It is best to carry out such an assessment using a laser level. This device is installed in the center of the room, its position is verified using the built-in level. Then the level is turned on and a laser beam located in an absolutely horizontal plane is projected onto the walls of the room. All you have to do is draw risks on the walls of the room with a pencil.

As for the height of the future screed, it must be calculated based on two parameters: the height difference at the floor slab with the minimum thickness of the screed.

After placing the marks on the wall, you will see where the highest point of your floor slab is. To this height it will be necessary to add the minimum thickness of the screed that this type of leveling mixture provides. Usually for cement-sand mixtures, this figure is 30 millimeters. After determining the height differences, you can determine how much mixture you will need to level the floor.

Step 8

Before installing beacons, you can pull strong threads between the walls by fixing them with self-tapping screws.

Step 9

Cement-sand leveling the mixture is placed between the beacons– pieces of perforated metal profile (there are specialized products, but you can also use just a profile designed for installing plasterboard sheets). Their upper edge indicates the level of the upper surface of the future screed.

Step 10

At first cut profile sections required size. Usually beacons are installed in rows parallel to the short wall of the room. The number of rows depends on the qualifications of the master and the length of the rule he uses - a long metal strip with which the solution is leveled. The first beacon-profile is installed at a distance of ten centimeters from the wall and then in parallel rows every month and a half.

Step 11

Beacon profiles are attached to the floor surface in piles or with a continuous layer of the same cement-sand screed, mixed to a thicker consistency. At installation of lighthouses you need to pay special attention to the level of their upper edge. This is a very painstaking job that requires great care. To adjust the height of a particular section of the beacon-profile, pieces of thin, non-moisture-absorbing material are placed under it. These could be, for example, pieces of plastic. If you use a material that absorbs moisture, it can take liquid from the screed, change its size and disrupt the level of the screed.

After the mixture fixing the beacons on the surface of the floor has set and securely secured the positions of the profile sections, you can proceed directly to pouring the floor.

Step 12

Next you need prepare the mixture. At home, the easiest way to mix the floor mixture is in a large plastic construction container using the most common household mixer (an attachment for an electric drill). The mixture must be mixed in accordance with the technology described on the packaging. Thus, a significant number of mixtures after mixing require a certain amount of time to settle.

Remember one simple rule: pour the dry mixture into the water in a thin stream, and not vice versa. This way you will avoid the formation of lumps.

Step 13

The mixture is applied to the floor in one of the lanes located between the lighthouses. After pouring onto the floor, the mixture is leveled with a rule, which, with its edges, rests on the upper parts of the metal beacon profiles and moves the excess leveling mixture to places where it does not yet exist. So, strip by strip, the entire surface of the floor is covered with the leveling mixture.

Step 14

Maturing of the poured floor surface can reach from several days to several weeks. Specific curing conditions are usually written on the packaging of the dry mixture. Also, from time to time, you may need moistening the screed surface with water to prevent drying out. While the mixture is drying, the room is usually not ventilated to prevent dehydration of the solution.

Partially poured floor

Step 15

After the main rough screed has hardened, walk along its surface coat of primer, this will improve the adhesion between the layers of the main and leveling screed.

Step 16

Then onto the floor surface the mixed self-leveling mixture is poured out. It has a thinner consistency compared to the base layer mixture.

Processing with a spiked roller

Step 18

After completing all these operations, you will receive a perfectly flat floor surface that will be ready for installation of any type of finishing floor covering.

You can also learn some of the nuances of self-construction of a poured floor from the provided video tutorial.

Every person who wants to make a self-leveling floor with their own hands has probably asked the question: “How to fill the floors yourself?” After all, this type of flooring is quite popular today, but an ordinary person hardly knows how to properly fill a floor.

Now there are a large number of varieties of poured flooring, both ordinary and decorative. And this type of coating looks stylish in any residential interior, since it contains various additives from bright fragments, which adds more aesthetics and popularity to it. Acts as a decorative element quartz sand, with the help of which all kinds of patterns are created. They can be glossy, matte, smooth or rough. In addition, you can create a self-leveling floor with a specific pattern, which with its style and beauty will help create a unique atmosphere in the room. But how to fill such floors yourself?

Let's talk about how to fill a floor efficiently, while saving money, and consider the technology for creating such floors, paying attention to the main stages of the work, as well as the tools and materials needed for work.

Previously, poured flooring was used in industrial buildings or industrial premises. But now the technology of poured flooring has undergone some changes, and now such a floor can be used in residential premises. The design of poured floors depends on the purpose of the building and the planned loads on it. The process of making this floor has several stages. Let's look at each one.

Prepare the subfloor

Before you start pouring the floor, you need to prepare the base. Very often, each type of base has its own preparation methods, so we will consider each of them separately.

concrete base

Self-leveling floors in a residential area with a concrete base require high-quality preparation, which consists of several steps:

  • remove the old flooring, and also dismantle the baseboards and doors. If there is a coating of varnish, glue or mastic, they must also be removed;
  • treat existing cracks using a triangular scraper;
  • clean the floor from dust, dirt and debris;
  • use a level to check whether additional leveling of the floors is required;
  • mark on the walls the level to which you want to fill the floors. If there is plaster on the walls, remove it with a margin of 25-30 mm above the mark;
  • once again clean the base from the dirt that has appeared;
  • check the moisture level of the concrete - it should be up to 4%. If the result exceeds the desired value, then you will need to additionally dry the concrete base;
  • degrease the surface, cover all cracks and chips and again make sure that the base is horizontal, since the floors must be level and dry.

Remember! When cleaning the concrete base, use only a wire brush - it will help to effectively prepare the base.

wooden base

It is quite possible to make poured floors with an image on a wooden base, but the process requires preparation and repair of the base:

  • work begins with the dismantling of doors and skirting boards. As well as removing the old coating;
  • open the cracks and clean the surface with sandpaper of various grain sizes;
  • remove any existing dirt with an industrial vacuum cleaner;
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  • When the floor is completely dry, measure the humidity level - it should be up to 10%. If the level exceeds the indicator, then carry out additional drying;
  • degrease the surface and seal all cracks and chips using glue-based wood putty.

Floor pouring technology

First you need to prepare a mixture for pouring floors - this is a fairly easy process that can be done at home. Material needed here: a dry polymer-based mixture to which water is added and mixed.

Know! To ensure a high-quality polymer floor, the dry mixture is poured into water, but not vice versa.


Before pouring the floor, perform a flow test. Note that the resulting mass should be rare and flow well over the surface. But don't overdo it with water, otherwise the floors won't harden.

Each person who has some construction skills will be able to independently perform a poured floor, and the instructions provide for some stages of the technology:

To prevent dust from entering and uneven hardening of the surface, cover the floors with foil or a special film.

Modern poured floors can be decorated with thin pieces of polymer. These decorative elements are applied immediately after the floor is poured, so that the mixture does not have time to harden.

The entire prepared mixture should be used very quickly (within an hour). Remember that the break between the first and second portions of the solution should be no more than 10 minutes, otherwise the solution will lose its fluid properties or even harden.

Read about why and what to look for when buying flooring.

Watch the video on where to start renovating the kitchen - features of a number of works that require special attention.

The procedure for insulating the floor of the first floor with penoplex is described at:

The price of a poured transparent floor is on average 395 rubles. for 15 kg. The decorative one costs less - about 245-255 rubles.

When planning to make poured floors with your own hands, watch the video instructions to figure out how and in what sequence to proceed:

Well, master craftsmen? How are things going with the apartment renovation? Are you going to do something to the floors? But there is a good idea - to make poured floors with your own hands. By the way, it's not that hard. But it’s still worth doing this together with an assistant, then the possibility of error is significantly reduced.

Every day, the influence of modern technologies on our lives is increasing. Here is the filler floor - one of the latest innovations. Of course, such floors have been used for industrial premises for quite some time. However, at the household, apartment level, such an innovation came out not so long ago. But such floors have enough advantages.

  • Filled (self-leveling) floors are distinguished by excellent strength, wear resistance and a significant service life - up to 40 years
  • With proper pouring, the floor turns out to be monolithic, without seams and cracks and is an almost perfectly flat surface.
  • After drying, the filler floor does not emit toxic or harmful substances and is not afraid of exposure to chemically active preparations.
  • One of the fundamental properties of the filler floor is excellent waterproofing.
  • A properly filled floor is easy to clean, as it does not absorb dirt and dust.
  • And, finally, thanks to the latest advances in this field, the flooded floors have significant decorative characteristics and retain their color even under intense ultraviolet radiation.

Filled floors - 3D design photo

Since scientists have done a good job of increasing the diversity, now you can choose different colors and textures of the flood floors. Your new floor can be glossy or matte, plain or patterned, smooth or rough.

In addition, you can use floor grout to level it before laying other floor coverings. Parquet, laminate, linoleum or carpet can be laid on the surface of the poured floor.

Getting ready for the work ahead

The most difficult thing in the technology of poured floors is to carry out the preliminary measures correctly. And you need to start with the preparation of the foundation.

What substrate can be used for flooring? There are only three options here:

  • concrete screed
  • wooden floors
  • ceramic tile

But in any case, the base for the poured floor must be strong enough and not prone to change, otherwise your floors will not last as long as the manufacturer promises.

It is important to know: whatever the base for the poured floor, its humidity should be minimal. If this condition is not met, the floor may become deformed due to swelling or even crack

This is the kind of sandwich that turns out the filler floor

So, a concrete screed is the best option for the foundation. You just need to make sure that the concrete floor is sufficiently intact (no cracks), dry (concrete moisture content before pouring is no more than 4%) and clean.

For wooden floors, the basic work will be more - checking the strength of the boards themselves and their fastening to the joists, filling the cracks (the substrate must be airtight), controlling humidity (for wood - a maximum of 10%) and again cleanliness.

Ceramic tiles are also checked for integrity and tightness. If a dull sound is heard when tapping the tile base, it is necessary to remove the poorly secured tile and either putty the area or re-lay it more securely.

It is important to know: any base for a poured floor must be clean - free of dust, debris, old paint, glue residues and greasy stains, so it is best to vacuum and degrease the base before priming

After making sure that the base is strong and tight, you should check it for evenness. Various mixtures of poured floor can be poured to a height of 2-3 mm to 2-5 cm. It would seem that this is quite enough not to think about leveling the surface of the base. On the one hand, this is true, but dry floor mixtures are not cheap. Although, if you are so rich, you can pour the floors in several layers, achieving an ideal plane. However, more economical craftsmen prefer to go over the base with a grinding machine, and then fill the floors with a layer of optimal thickness (no more than 5 mm).

Priming the prepared surface

Applying a primer to a dry and clean surface

For the most complete adhesion of the poured floor to the base, it is necessary to prime the prepared surface of the old floor. The primer should thoroughly fill all the pores or even microcracks of the surface. Therefore, it is better to do priming in two stages. In general, don’t skimp on the primer - it’s quite affordable. But if you prime the surface poorly, you will have to spend a lot more on correcting the floor. In this case, difficulties in removing an incorrectly filled area are especially expensive.

So, we prime the surface using a roller. You can use a brush or airless spray, but a roller gives the best results. We monitor the behavior of the primer. Foaming and discoloration may indicate increased moisture in the substrate. Then you will have to dry everything thoroughly to remove excess moisture. The second coat of primer is applied only after the initial one has completely dried. As a result, we should get a smooth, shiny surface.

The primer should dry for at least 4-6 hours, but no more than a day. And only after that we begin to pour our new floor.

Filled floors - mixture application technology

The preparation of the solution for the screed floor is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions; it is recommended to stir the mixture with a drill in two passes

It is necessary to make a solution for the poured floor, following the instructions on the packaging of the mixture. General recommendations worth knowing are the following:

  • dry mixture is always added to water
  • the amount of water must strictly correspond to the instructions, since with more water your floors will be of poor quality and will quickly become covered with cracks, but with less quantity the solution will not spread normally, and sagging and unevenness may result due to the solution setting too quickly
  • the resulting solution must be thoroughly mixed, it is best to do this with a mixing attachment on a drill
  • the solution must be completely homogeneous, without clots or lumps

It is important to know: you can check for the correct proportions of water and mixture as follows: cut off the bottom of a plastic cap with a diameter of 5 cm and a height of 4.5 cm (for example, a cap from any aerosol). Having placed the resulting ring on a smooth surface (glass works well), pour the prepared solution into it to the brim, after which we remove the ring. If the solution has the correct consistency, the stain should spread 16-18 cm

The solution begins to harden within 40 minutes (more precise time is indicated on the packaging), so during this time it must be applied to the base. The process must be continuous, so it is better to work together - one pours, the other prepares the next portion of the mixture.

DIY screed floor

The procedure for filling the floors with the prepared solution is quite simple. Photo: poured floor - stages of correct pouring.

Pour the prepared solution onto the surface of the base.

Using a squeegee, maintain the required coating thickness

Evenly distribute the solution with a spatula

Using an aeration roller with long spikes, we expel air bubbles from the filler floor.

Starting from the wall opposite the entrance, fill the areas with the prepared solution. Level it to the desired thickness with a squeegee or spatula. Remove air bubbles from the still liquid mixture with an aeration roller. In order not to damage already filled areas where additional work is being carried out, you can use paint shoes - special soles with spikes attached to shoes.

Using paint shoes you can walk on a liquid floor

It is important to know: in the process of drying a freshly poured floor, you should avoid drafts and the influence of direct sunlight, otherwise the drying will be uneven and various disturbances may occur - from the “caramel” effect (when the top layer has dried out, but liquid remains inside) to the explosive separation of a section of the poured floor from basics (with uneven heating from the sun's rays)

To obtain a monolithic plane of the poured floor, it is recommended to fill the entire room in one go. This ensures the absence of joints and seams. If the room is too large, then it is better to contact specialists. Professionals will be able to join areas filled at different times to form a common, flat surface.

That's all - after a day (or whatever time is allowed for drying by the manufacturer), we get a beautiful, flat floor. If you decide to stop there, then you can cover the poured floor with varnish. And if you want to put some other covering on, then the next step will be laying it. But more on that in another article.

Good luck with your renovation and strong floors!

The use of modern poured (or self-leveling, as they are also called) floors is especially important in cases where repair work is carried out urgently. For this, special self-leveling mixtures are used, the main advantage of which is considered to be ease of use - even a person far from construction will be able to prepare a high-quality base for the final pour after reading the instructions.

Other advantages of self-leveling mixtures

Attention! The thickness of the pour, as well as the composition of the mixture itself, directly affects the drying time of the mixture before applying the coating. So, every 3 mm must be kept for a day, that is, 6 mm have been kept for two days, and 9 mm, respectively, three.

What will be required at work

The filling procedure begins with the purchase of everything necessary. Here list of materials and equipment:

  • self-leveling mixture;

  • primer (ideally deep penetration);

  • mounting level;
  • electronic moisture meter;

  • electric drill, mixer attachment;

  • a container of appropriate volume for mixing the solution;
  • needle roller;

  • squeegee;

  • putty knife.

Do-it-yourself poured floor: technology

Any work requires careful preparation, and filling the floor with a leveling compound is no exception. Therefore, along with the tools, you need to choose the right composition.

Stage 1. Selection of self-leveling composition

Self-leveling composition for floors (layer 3-20 mm) 20 kg

When purchasing, you must pay attention to the manufacturer's advice and follow all recommendations. Self-respecting companies must indicate on the packaging the “viability” of the mixture (the time it takes to finish working with it) and the maximum thickness.

In addition, the packaging must indicate the period for gaining strength, which is required for moving on the floor, laying linoleum, ceramic tiles, parquet, etc. This is also very important, because for each material this period is different.

Stage 2. Preparing the base

Step 1. First, the old flooring, baseboards, doors are dismantled, and all the furniture is taken out.

Step 2. The base is cleaned with a grinding machine or wire brush. Soluble leveling mixtures, oil, glue and crumbling concrete are removed.

Step 3. All cracks formed are cut to a V-shape using a triangular scraper, after which the horizontalness of the surface is checked using the two-meter rule.

Attention! In this case, the gaps between the rule and the floor should not exceed 2 mm.

Step 4. The level of the future poured floor is marked on the walls. If the walls are plastered, then the plaster is removed 30 cm above this line.

Step 5. The floor is vacuumed and treated with degreasing powder.

Step 6. All cracks and crevices are carefully filled with special glue or ordinary cement mortar with a small amount of resin.

Preparing the base

About the difference in levels

Let us consider in more detail the concept of level difference. It is used to indicate the difference between the lowest depression on a surface and the highest convexity. If this indicator does not exceed 2.5 cm, then before applying the primer layer, the floor is filled with a construction leveling mortar (leveling mixture and sand in a 2:1 ratio). A trowel is used for application.

If the difference is on average 3 cm, then before applying the primer the floor is covered with a construction correction compound (cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 2.5).

Attention! All these measures are carried out in the absence of a self-leveling mixture for a given thickness.

Stage 3. Checking the base

Step 1. Check the moisture content of the concrete surface. If it exceeds 4%, then the base should be dried. To check, a regular rubber mat is placed and pressed onto the surface. If after 24 hours the color of the base under the mat remains the same, then everything is fine with the humidity.

Step 2. The strength of the base is checked. Concrete must withstand compression of at least 20 MPa and lifting of more than 2 MPa. For such a check you will need a chisel and a hammer. The chisel is applied to the base at an angle of 90ᵒ, after which several blows of medium force are applied with a hammer. If after this the surface does not crumble, but barely noticeable traces remain, then the quality of the coating meets the requirements.

Stage 4

To apply the primer, use a brush or roller. A dry and porous surface will have to be processed several times; after applying each new layer, it is necessary to pause for the primer to dry.

Priming performs three functions at once:


If the floor is poured in several layers, then the primer should be applied before each new layer.

Attention! In rooms with high humidity levels, a waterproof layer is applied over the primer.

To improve adhesion, the primer layer is sprinkled with sand. Average sand consumption is no more than 200 g/m². After this, the surface will acquire the roughness necessary for adhesion. One day after applying the last layer of primer, you can begin pouring.

Stage 5. Preparing the mixture

This procedure should be taken very seriously, because if the quality of the fill is poor, the coating will be hopelessly damaged. For mixing, use a drill with a mixer attachment, and the finished mixture must be poured over the surface as quickly as possible.

Attention! When pouring, air humidity should not exceed 75%, otherwise condensation will form on the surface, which will lead to deterioration in the quality of the coating.

First, all components are poured into the prepared container in the proportion indicated on the packaging of the leveling composition. Then the container is placed in another, with a larger volume, filled with cold water. This will reduce the rate at which the temperature of the solution rises and, as a result, give more time for pouring.

The components are mixed at low drill speeds (no more than 400-450 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is formed. This can be determined by eye, or you can use a technique used by experienced builders.

Step 1. First, take a deodorant or air freshener cap. A ring is cut out of the lid and placed on a flat surface - for example, on a piece of glass.

Step 2. The ring is filled with the prepared mixture and raised.

Step 3. If the mixture spreads evenly and forms a spot with a diameter of 2-3 cm, then it is ready for pouring. If the diameter is smaller, then the mixture is too thick and high-quality leveling is unlikely to occur. On the contrary, if the diameter is larger, then the resulting solution is too liquid - you need to add a little more leveling mixture to it.

Stage 6. Filling

Step 1. The solution is used immediately after preparation, since the interval between pouring the next portion should not exceed ten minutes. It is better to carry out this procedure together - one will mix the solution, the other will pour it.

Step 2. The solution is poured parallel to the wall in a strip 35-40 cm wide. A spatula is used for leveling - this will allow for better distribution of the mass.

Attention! Filling begins from the wall distant from the front door. The entire room must be filled immediately, without stopping, otherwise drops will form.

Step 3. The solution is rolled with a needle roller to remove air and distribute it evenly over the base.

Step 4. After this, a new portion is poured, smoothed and rolled. This continues until the entire room is flooded.

Step 5. After pouring (after about 2 days), it is recommended to apply a clear polyurethane coating to the surface.

Step 6. While drying, the floor must be protected from drafts, sun rays and temperature changes. In the future, you must adhere to the following requirements:

  • You can walk on the leveled surface after 10-12 hours;
  • expose the coating to moderate loads - after 24 hours;
  • complete drying occurs after 48-72 hours;
  • laying ceramic tiles is permissible only after 3 days;
  • installation of parquet, linoleum or plastic – in a week.

Attention! If the room is heated by a “warm floor” system, then the first heating can be carried out only a week after completion of work. You need to start at room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 3ᵒC per day.

Video - DIY self-leveling floor

Stage 7. Cutting seams

After the self-leveling floor has hardened, the seams are cut (the same as in the case of a concrete screed). Grooves with a depth of 1/3 of the thickness of the fill are made along the perimeter of the coating. A cord is inserted into each groove and covered with sealant. This is done to avoid the formation of cracks, which is especially important in rooms with a large area.

As a conclusion

When working with a self-leveling floor, do not forget about safety measures. The room should be well ventilated (but without drafts); you should also use protective equipment - a respirator, rubber gloves. Only in this case can you improve your home without compromising your own health.

A shiny poured floor with a mirror surface will make any room feel more spacious and attractive.

Many of those who were involved in building their own home or major renovation of an apartment were faced with the problem of installing poured floors with their own hands.

This coating is very popular, however, it is not so easy to install it correctly and correctly.

Today there are many modifications of poured floors.

When creating various interiors, the use of all kinds of bright additives is allowed.

This flooring is a great choice for any living space.

Decoration is carried out using quartz sand.

There are matte, glossy, rough and smooth versions.

In addition, some contain definitely beautiful and stylish decorative designs that help create a unique atmosphere.

These floors are classified into a variety of categories, they are:

  • solvent (with hydrocarbon mixtures) and aqueous;
  • highly filled and thin-layer;
  • antistatic and electrically conductive;
  • rough and smooth;
  • methyl methacrylic, epoxy-urethane, epoxy, polyurethane.

The choice of a specific modification of a poured polymer floor is influenced by the nuances of the room, operating conditions or requirements for external aesthetics.

For example, epoxy-based floors have good chemical resistance.

Accordingly, methyl methacryl copes well with low temperatures.

Most often, residential premises are filled with polyurethane floors (similar polymers are used when pouring 3D floors).

Advantages of filling kits

As practice shows, achieving a flat surface during the pouring process is quite a difficult task.

In this case, the most optimal would be to use self-leveling mixtures that are capable of self-distribution over the plane.

Despite the fact that the installation of such structures is simplified to the limit, in order to independently carry out the relevant work, it would not be superfluous to carry out thorough preparation.

Thanks to high technologies, modern building materials have appeared, based on polymers that have the highest performance characteristics.

All this applies to poured floor coverings, among which poured floors are especially popular, having the following advantages:

  • there are no gaps or seams on the finished smooth surface;
  • they have a long service life;
  • these floors perfectly repel dust;
  • coatings are admired for their high wear resistance;
  • maintenance does not require special care;
  • such floors are non-toxic and non-flammable.

Preparations for work

To make a poured floor yourself, you need to stock up on the necessary tools.

The devices are used when laying the floor itself, as well as when preparing the base.

So, preliminary work is carried out:

  • brush;
  • triangular scraper;
  • two-meter strip;
  • roller;
  • cuvette;
  • metal grill.

Laying is done using:

  • two/four needle aeration rollers that remove air bubbles;
  • mops with a fixed gap (it evenly distributes the composition over the surface);
  • a spatula that distributes the suspension next to the doors, in the corners, in the radiator areas;
  • a low-speed drill with a special stirrer connected to it;
  • clean container for 15-20 liters.

Preparing the base

A high-quality self-leveling floor is the result of careful execution of all operations.

  1. Any old floor covering must be carefully removed. Then the doors and baseboards are dismantled. The same is done with paint layers, mastic or glue, and brittle concrete.
  2. Next come sanding machines or metal brushes that thoroughly clean the floor surface. All cracks are processed along the way (a triangular scraper is used).
  3. The horizontality of the floor is controlled using a two-meter strip.
  4. The level of the future self-leveling structure is fixed on the plastered walls. 25 mm is marked upward from this mark. The rest of the plaster above is removed. At the end of the process, everything is cleaned with a vacuum cleaner and degreased.

When various breaks, cracks, or crevices appear, they are carefully filled with putty with a thin adhesive solution or a composition with the addition of resin.

It can be easily done by reading an article about this construction process on our website.

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The primer must be sprayed over the surface.

If it has pores, a mop, brush and roller come into play.

They are operated on until all the gaps are filled with the composition.

If necessary, the procedure is repeated.

If you are going to pour a floor in a wooden building, then this should be done taking into account the fact that wood expands when exposed to moisture and contracts when it dries.

Therefore, the wooden base is pre-reinforced with mesh or reinforced with a screed.

Preparing the mixture

When diluting the solution, you should follow the recommendations specified in the instructions.

It has been noticed that the solution will be lighter if a volume of water is first poured into the container, and then the dry mixture is added there.

When all the lumps have safely dissolved, the remaining liquid is added to the reservoir.

An electric drill with an attachment is used for stirring.

It should be remembered that the suspension remains fluid for 40 minutes.

The mixture must be poured from the side opposite the exit, slowly moving towards the door.

Step-by-step instruction

Enjoy watching!

Once everything is ready, you can begin the main operations:

  1. It is advisable to fill the self-leveling floor by two craftsmen at the same time (so that the procedure is continuous). One is engaged in diluting the mixture, while the other applies the solution, rolling it out with a roller.
  2. The mixture is poured in small portions (no more than 2 “squares” at a time). To make the layer uniform, a needle roller is used (it simultaneously distributes the layer and removes air trapped there).
  3. Since the poured structures harden within 3-6 hours, you should apply the entire prepared solution quickly, laying out portions with pauses no longer than 10 minutes.
  4. During the drying process, sunlight, temperature changes, and drafts are excluded.

How 3D floors are created

Today's building materials and technologies make it possible to install a poured floor that will match the uniform style of the entire room.

We are talking about self-leveling coatings with a 3D effect.

Such flooring is installed in the following sequence:

  • a base is created - a leveling polymer layer;
  • a photograph or drawing is pasted on top (it is possible to use leaves, dried flowers, crystals, pebbles, colored sand, and other decorative materials);
  • then a transparent polymer component is applied;
  • The design is completed with a finishing coating - a wear-resistant shockproof layer.

Thanks to today's innovations, poured floor coverings have become actively used in the renovation of private homes.

The final choice of model is influenced by the type of room and expected loads.

Photo gallery

In this section you can view several interesting photos of self-leveling floors.