How to arrange constant watering of narrow beds. Vegetable garden and watering for the lazy

There is always plenty of work to do on a summer cottage. The three main concerns of a summer resident - watering, loosening and weeding - take up a lot of time. Installing an automatic garden watering system will significantly reduce labor costs, save energy and allocate time for more important activities - replanting, pruning, harvesting and conservation.

Advantages and disadvantages of automatic watering

Installing such a system will not be difficult, and the gardener, in addition to saving time and effort, receives a lot of benefits. Automatic watering of the beds allows you to:

  1. Carry out regular watering in your absence. The owner of the plot can always go away for a long time and not worry that the plantings will dry out.
  2. Apply moisture directly to plant roots. This saves water and does not disturb the top layer of soil, as after regular watering with a watering can, therefore, you will have to loosen the bed less often.
  3. Add dissolved .
  4. Don’t worry about uneven watering, when parts of the plantings lack moisture, and some are flooded.
  5. Water in the dark. This is extremely convenient for those crops for which sprinkling irrigation is preferred, but it is not recommended to do this in the sun to avoid burns on the leaves.

Any automation has its drawbacks, which must be taken into account when planning a system for automatic watering of beds:

  • if you are away for a long time, it is difficult to establish a suitable automatic watering schedule, because periods of drought can be replaced by prolonged rains, and the weather forecast is not always correct;
  • in the event of an unscheduled power outage, the automation stops working;
  • Installing automatic watering of beds will cost more if water is taken from an open reservoir, or the operating pressure in the water supply does not correspond to the parameters of the automatic watering system.

In the latter case, you will have to install cleaning filters or additional equipment that regulates the water pressure.

Types of automatic watering systems

You can set up automatic watering for any plantings, be it beds, lawns or indoor plants in pots. Only the scale of work and methods of water supply differ. There are three main automatic watering systems.

Sprinklers

Through special devices, water is sprayed over the surface, irrigating a certain area. Such systems are usually installed on lawns.

Drip irrigation

In this case, moisture is supplied to the roots of plants and is not spent on the entire area of ​​the beds or greenhouses. This method has four big advantages:

  • water is saved;
  • the top layer of soil is not disturbed, and you have to loosen it much less often;
  • weed growth is significantly reduced;
  • the air remains dry.

Drip irrigation is necessary for greenhouses, as high humidity contributes to the spread of diseases in greenhouses.

Underground automatic watering

Such systems are installed where it is necessary to irrigate large areas, but sprinkling is difficult or impossible. Summer residents use underground irrigation extremely rarely due to complex installation and expensive equipment.

Automatic lawn watering by sprinkling

Such systems are most often installed by owners of large lawns. With their help, a lot of effort and time are saved, and the installation of the sprinkler system is the most cost-effective and does not require fine tuning. Lawn grass easily tolerates a slight excess or lack of moisture and high humidity. The minimum set of accessories for installing such a system includes only hoses, taps and sprinklers. When you open a tap in the water supply, water is supplied through hoses to sprinklers, and after some time it is turned off. This method belongs to semi-automatic, as it works only in the presence of the owner. To carry out without human intervention, the installation is supplemented with the following components:

  • a pumping station that provides constant pressure;
  • water filters that purify water from foreign matter that can clog the holes of the sprinkler;
  • solenoid valves that regulate the flow of water to individual sprinklers;
  • controllers that control the entire system according to a given algorithm.

If the lawn is only planned, it is better to lay the hoses underground, leaving only sprinklers on the surface.

A drawing is first made, on which all elements of the system are transferred on a scale with reference to the terrain. Such a detailed drawing will allow you to quickly find a problem or lay additional underground communications without affecting the existing automatic watering system for the beds.

All components of the sprinkler system can be bought ready-made in specialized stores or assembled from individual parts yourself. Convenient and inexpensive sprinklers are famous firms "Gardena", "Hunter", "Rain Bird".

Drip irrigation device for garden beds

used wherever sprinkling is undesirable. Most garden crops cannot tolerate high air humidity. Thus, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, onions, and many flowers can develop fungal diseases. Therefore, the installation of a drip irrigation system is preferable for them. Another difficulty is that almost all of these plants need to be watered only with warm water, which means you will need a container of the appropriate volume. The barrel is installed at a height of at least 1 meter to create the required pressure.
The simplest drip irrigation system consists of:

  • containers;
  • tap;
  • water filter;
  • start-connector;
  • regular hose;
  • drip hose;
  • end plug.

Start connectors are needed to regulate the water supply to individual sections of the drip hose. With their help, you can increase or decrease the time of watering individual beds without turning off the common tap.

The system of automatic drip irrigation of beds can be supplemented with a pump that will pump water into the barrel and controllers that control the water supply automatically.

Automatic watering of a greenhouse with minimal water pressure - video

The growth and fertility of your plants in your garden beds depends on how carefully you care for the soil. It is especially important to organize proper watering of the seedlings: without water they will simply wither. Watering involves taking into account the plants' requirements for soil saturation with moisture. Otherwise, you risk flooding the plant, which will also not give a positive result in growing.

There are several types of irrigation organization (for example, drip, automatic). In this article we will tell you in detail how to properly organize watering of the beds on your site. Next, we will learn about the principles of operation of drip and automatic garden irrigation systems. At the end of the article, recommendations are given on how to create such an irrigation system with your own hands.

No amount of fertilizers, even the highest quality and most expensive, and the most advanced methods of vegetable growing can provide you with high yields from your beds without thoughtful and well-organized watering. Remember, to maintain the freshness of dill, parsley or other herbs, you need to water them regularly. Don't want to get bitter beets or carrots? Same recommendations. But at the same time, it is also necessary to adhere to measures: excessive watering will lead to the fact that the roots of the plants will begin to rot, and the vegetables will eventually taste watery.

To simplify watering, special systems were invented:

  • automatic;
  • semi-automatic.

If you prefer traditional watering methods, you can moisten the soil using a watering can or hose (pictured).

You can make a watering system without your presence in the garden with your own hands. But we'll talk about this later.

Now let’s take a closer look at the basic principles and rules that should be followed in order to efficiently water the beds:

  1. Irrigation water must be well heated so that the plants do not end up getting sick.
  2. On very hot days, plants should not be watered, otherwise the moisture will quickly evaporate and the plants will get sunburned. It is best to water on such days in the evening.
  3. To avoid powdery mildew on tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini and peppers, it is not recommended to water them after 6 pm.


  1. The most favorable time for watering tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants is the morning (between 10 and 11 o'clock). But it is recommended to water root vegetables, cucumbers, radishes and herbs from 4 to 6 pm.
  2. It is necessary to water the seedlings that you have just planted every day. After it has completely taken root, you can water it less often - once every 3 or 4 days.
  3. When watering the beds, you can add ash or bulb peels to the water. In this case, it is necessary to water in the following sequence: water 2 times with ordinary water, 1 time with infusion of onion peels, 2 times again with ordinary water, 1 time with a solution of ash and again in the same order.
  4. The frequency of watering is affected by the plants that are planted in the beds. For zucchini, pumpkins, and cucumbers, watering once every three days is considered sufficient, since their root system goes deep underground. But cabbage and tomatoes have shallow roots, so they should be watered once every one or two days.
  5. As for watering fruit trees or berry bushes, they are patient with drought. But these types of small plants need regular watering.
  6. When watering with a watering can, raise it as high as possible so that the water splashes (as in the photo) and does not flow in one continuous stream. You can use a sprinkler attachment on a watering can to thoroughly moisten the soil without harming tender young plants.
  7. Water from the hose should flow moderately so as not to erode the top layer of soil. It is most effective to water the soil at the roots of plants, not their leaves.

Using a watering can or hose to water the beds is a long-term and physically difficult task. Therefore, automatic and semi-automatic systems are often chosen as irrigation tools. They are very convenient if you rarely visit the territory of the dacha.

Sprinklers

Sprinklers can be circular, pendulum, sector and pulse. At the same time, they have a basis from a system of pipes that are dug into the ground and connected to each other by an adapter or a ball valve. Such a system belongs to the semi-automatic type of irrigation, since it requires manual activation or deactivation.

The most convenient semi-automatically controlled system is drip irrigation (see photo below).

Its popularity among summer residents is explained by the fact that drip irrigation allows you to save water and at the same time provide an accurate supply of not only the water itself, but also solutions of mineral fertilizers.


Watering is one of the most labor-intensive gardening jobs.

Another advantage of drip irrigation is that it can be supplemented with a controller. At the same time, you will already have an automatic irrigation system that will provide control over the dosage of water. The main advantage of drip irrigation is that such a system provides the necessary moisture directly to the roots of the plants. This has a beneficial effect on soil moisture. Due to the fact that water is supplied pointwise, the possibility of active growth of weeds is eliminated.

The operating principle of drip irrigation is based on the transfer of water through a hose that has special droppers. At a strictly allotted time (since the system is semi-automatic, you regulate its operating time), moisture enters under the roots of the plants in small portions. Drip irrigation very easily and efficiently solves the problem of watering your beds.

For those who have difficulty constantly visiting the site, we recommend paying attention to automatic watering, which operates on a timer.

  1. The electronic control of such a system allows you to water the beds on time, regardless of whether you are at the dacha or not.
  2. The controlled parameters include regulation of the pressure of the water stream, the start and end time of irrigation.
  3. Automatic systems have another unique distinctive feature: water diffusers are hidden in the ground under a cover immediately after watering (pictured below). Thus, they are protected from soil contamination.


In addition, special rain sensors can be connected to the automatic system and it will not turn on in bad weather.

We make a system for watering beds with our own hands

If you spend a lot of time at your dacha and like to do everything with your own hands, then making a drip irrigation system will not be very difficult and even interesting for you. Such a system will greatly facilitate work in the garden, reduce water consumption, and you will get excellent harvests. How to do everything with your own hands, let's figure it out further.

First you need to carefully plan the design of your drip irrigation system, draw a plan, and calculate the amount of materials needed (as in the photo below). To do this you need to do the following:

  1. Mark on the system drawing the location for the main water tank. After this, determine the location of the main hose or pipe through which water is distributed through the drip tapes.
  2. Be sure to measure the distance from plant to plant in order to choose the correct length of the hose and determine the distance between the holes for the droppers.
  3. The main water container must be installed at a height of about 2 meters above the ground.

Now we can install our drip system:

  • The hose or pipe must be placed perpendicular to the plants in the garden bed.
  • After this, we drill holes in them that correspond to the distance between the plants.
  • Drip tapes are attached to the main pipe or hose using starter fittings.
  • It is necessary to lay the tapes along the beds, and the droppers should be placed as close to the plant as possible.


  • After this, we connect these tapes to the main pipe or hose, and put plugs on their other side.
  • The main hose or pipe can now be connected to the main water container.
  • Use a filter to purify the water in this container.
  • The insertion of the pipe or hose should be made slightly above the bottom of the water barrel to prevent foreign objects from getting into the irrigation system.
  • Now you can fill the main container with water and start watering.

Attention! To ensure your homemade watering system works perfectly, remember the following:

  1. Check the tightness and reliability of all connections to prevent overflow. This is important because excessive moisture will cause the roots of plants in the beds to rot.
  2. Prepare your system before use. To do this, remove the plugs and run water through the main pipe and hoses.
  3. Droppers require periodic rinsing.
  4. It is extremely undesirable to enlarge the holes of the droppers, since you violate the internal pressure of the system, and after this water is supplied to the plants irregularly.

Automatic or semi-automatic irrigation system - the choice depends only on your needs. In any case, it is very simple to build such a system with your own hands. Be attentive to the soil moisture in your garden beds. Only in this case will you get a rich and generous harvest.

This video will help you figure out how to make a drip irrigation system with your own hands.

Which I discovered for myself.
Another discovery is drip irrigation.

How did I organize watering in my raised beds?

From the very beginning, I laid hoses with cut holes and a plug at the end at a depth of 10 cm from the top of the bed. I connected a hose with supply water to these hoses and in this way watering was to be carried out. Exactly " had“, because in fact, no matter how much I waited, no matter how much water I poured, nothing was moistened. Where did the water go? It probably went deeper.

In general, nothing worked out with these hoses. And I had to water with a hose through the diffuser. And this led to the fact that the soil became covered with a crust and had to be loosened. And the leaves of the plants were damaged.

And only last year I learned about drip irrigation and was able to buy everything I needed for drip irrigation in my city.
Before that, I dug through a bunch of information, because at first I couldn’t understand the very essence of how it works.
The essence of drip irrigation is simple. Eat tapes drip or hoses. With already built-in droppers. Tapes are cheaper, but they are less durable, designed for a season, but if stored properly they can be used for 2-3 years.
The hoses are stronger, their walls are thicker and they are designed for many years of use. Naturally, they are more expensive.


There are also blind hoses, without droppers, used where it is impossible to choose the same distance. Used in the garden, for trees and bushes, for vineyards.
In this case, an additional dropper is needed.
It is advisable to put one tape on one row of plants.

At first I tried to put it between two rows, but it didn’t moisturize so well, so I added more tape.
So, the tapes or hoses are laid out in rows.
Now we need pipes so called, main, which will supply water to the tapes. There are special hoses, I forgot what they are called, but they are very expensive. I saw people soldered from eco-plastic pipes, for me it is also expensive.

Stopped at polyethylene pipes, those that are usually used for underground water supply. You can use simple watering hoses, but I don't know how well the connectors will hold in them.
So, in front of a row of tapes, I laid out pieces of pipe (25 mm).


Now we need start connectors. These are the fittings that connect the pipe and the tape. In general, a connector is a connector. In irrigation, connectors are also used that connect the watering hose and various devices (sprinklers, pistols, etc.) It is very convenient - you attach a connector to the end of the hose and you can quickly either connect two pieces of hose together, or connect it to a sprinkler or to a tee and etc.
So, in drip irrigation, there are start connectors or they can also be with a tap. It is convenient if watering is done on strawberries, raspberries, and flowers, where watering may not be needed the whole summer. It is possible to overlap individual rows.
A hole is drilled in the pipe (in my opinion, we used a 10 drill, although I read that a 14 is needed), a connector is inserted there (they are different, they can have a gasket, or maybe they just insert them and tighten them with a nut, tightening them. I tried both of these options The result is the same.
A tape is put on the other end of the connector.
You also need to supply water to the pieces of pipes; I did this using a watering hose. Here you need to think through everything, draw a diagram, so that you get a system with the lowest cost for all sorts of adapters.
If this is one bed with identical rows, then everything is quite simple. And if, like mine, the rows are of different lengths and in different places, then you need to think through everything.

These are examples of watering patterns.

Where will the watering come from?


First option - from a barrel. Water is supplied to the barrel by a hose from a well or from a water supply. And from the barrel (it is raised 1.5 m) water is supplied under low pressure to the drip irrigation system. At the outlet of the barrel there will be a tap and a disk or mesh filter, and then a hose or pipe will go to the main pipes.
The advantages of this option:
Warm water
Low pressure


Second option - directly from the tap.
I used this option.
For drip irrigation you need a very low pressure of 0.3-0.5 bar.
And in the water supply network it is about 4 bars (ours is like that). Therefore, I used a pressure reducer. I must say that it lowered it weakly and I had to additionally not fully open the tap.
I had this: a splitter for 2 outputs (one is free just in case), a reducer is screwed onto the second and then the watering hose goes to the main pipes.
The advantages of this option:
Simplicity, no additional equipment required.
Here it also needs to be said that the longer you have the length of the entire system, the lower the pressure will be in the entire network. If the network is small, then the pressure will be excessive anyway. Even when I opened the faucet only partially, water was leaking at all the connections. At first I was upset, tried to somehow fight it, then I realized that it was because of the pressure and calmed down. The main thing is that this leak gets into the row, so that the water does not go to waste.
Yes, and the ends of the tape need to be muffled. You can put on a cap (they come in several types). But it’s better to just cut a small piece of ribbon (1 cm), wrap the end of the ribbon a couple of times and put this cut piece on top.
I watered my beds in this way every day, for an hour and a half.

I write again: the photos are not mine.

Here, in my opinion, even search with the number of hoses per bed. I think two would be enough.

Here everything is done by the hose itself and adapters.

I wonder where the water comes from - right from the ground. The advantage is that you do not need to disassemble for the winter, the pipes will not freeze.

Why there are such wide, high beds, I don’t know how they can be maintained - it’s a mystery.

For hoses there is a special hole punch.

You can connect a timer and a distributor to the irrigation system for different zones.

Eco-friendly estate: How I would like to admire the garden and vegetable garden and do nothing at the same time. It takes a lot of time and effort to keep the garden in order, but so lazy. In addition to laziness, many people simply do not have the opportunity or time to care for their garden. I want to come to the dacha and just relax, without watching how the area is overgrown like a wild forest. With such requests, we will create a garden for the lazy.

How I would like to admire the garden, the garden and do nothing at the same time. It takes a lot of time and effort to keep a garden in order, but you are too lazy. In addition to laziness, many people simply do not have the opportunity or time to care for their garden.

I want to come to the dacha and just relax, without watching how the area is overgrown like a wild forest. With such requests, we will create a vegetable garden for the lazy.

Don't let weeds grow

Weeding is tedious and time consuming. Let's try to reduce it to a minimum. To prevent weeds from sprouting, the area can be covered with expanded clay, pebbles, gravel, marble chips, and bark.

They look beautiful and beneficial in lawn flower arrangements. Rarely located alpine hills, lonely Japanese gardens and rockeries can do without bedding. In the garden, weeding can be significantly reduced by covering the free soil with mulch, for which mown grass, sawdust, and sand are suitable.

Lazy watering system

A garden for the lazy has its own watering system, which you should think about when planning before planting. It is necessary to carry out drainage, take into account the slope of the terrain, and take care of the drainage system. Stagnant water should not be in the garden.

For irrigation, an extensive network of hoses or metal pipes, buried in the ground and connected by tees, is used. True, such a system works provided that there is running water on the site. In hoses or pipes located in the ground, you must first drill or pierce holes in the locations of beds, flower beds, and lawns. Where water is needed, it will flow through these holes. This is the so-called drip irrigation.

A ready-made spray irrigation system is available for sale. This is a flat polyethylene hose with many microscopic holes. Water that flows from the holes under low pressure forms a fine drizzling stream. Such a system is simple and compact, mounted within 3 minutes.

Homemade or purchased ready-made, the irrigation system evenly wets the soil. By equipping a garden for the lazy with such a watering system, you will free yourself from the tedious work of watering the beds yourself. If there is no running water on the site, then this system can operate from a container of water located at a height of 1.5-2 meters.

Drip spraying completely eliminates clogging with dirt, prevents diseases and increases the yield of vegetable crops. This is the perfect way to irrigate strawberries. Water does not penetrate deep and remains in the top root layer, the soil is saturated evenly. This method of watering, in addition to eliminating the need to personally water the beds, saves water consumption twice, and even more on sandy soils. From such a system you can spray against pests, or drip feed plants.

Selection of plants by shape

When planning a garden for the lazy, preference should be given to shrubs and trees. You can pick up varieties of perennials that require little to no care.

For example, you can plant rowan, shadberry, honeysuckle, quince, which, in addition to decorating the garden, will also bring a healthy, tasty harvest.

In order to preserve the beauty of the garden all year round, and not just in summer and spring, you can plant evergreens. Conifers include thujas, junipers, cypresses, pines, spruces, and fir. More southern deciduous plants include magnolia, rhododendrons, aucuba, holly and others. Shrubs and trees, unlike flowers, do not need to be replanted and divided every 2-3 years. This is also a noticeable saving of effort and time.

For the lazy, a garden should not be planted with lawn grass, which requires constant care; it is better to replace it with ground cover plants.

An ideal lawn is a clearing sown with young grass, sedum, arabis, saxifrage and other similar plants. Moorish lawn can also be a good alternative to a regular lawn. A clover lawn is unpretentious and looks very beautiful.

This might interest you:

Natural sugar substitutes that you can grow yourself

Currants in the garden: 6 placement tips

You should not install flower beds, containers with flowers, or solitaire trees on a lazy lawn. They will create unnecessary obstacles for the lawnmower.

It is best to place plants in your climate zone. This step will fit well into the now popular concept of natural gardening. After all, heat-loving plants require shelter for the winter, pruning, and feeding with fertilizers. In addition, they may not be able to withstand the harsh Russian frosts. And all this work is no longer for the lazy. published

Good watering is the key to productivity! How do first-time summer residents usually see this? Place more turntables and sprinklers, create, so to speak, the illusion of rain and moisture. Or, in the scorching heat, water with a hose, creating the appearance of vigorously tending your garden, making your neighbors envious. But everything would be fine if we do not take into account the damage that we can cause by improper watering. In order to understand the possible consequences, I propose to consider the situation from the other side.

How do plants see this?

“Watering during the heat kills me and burns my leaves. How? In physics class, they probably told you that drops of water act like a magnifying glass, through which the sun's rays penetrate and, as a result, you can get burned. Skip this thread? My new flowers and ovaries are falling off. And some fruits simply crack before they have time to ripen. Watering me at the end of the day not only warms up my roots, but also brings them to a boil. And this cold water that they pour on me simply puts me in a state of shock down to the last leaf! Chhi! Well, my roots are stuck in the swamp that you created, and I seem to be getting sick. Just promise that you won’t be angry with me for the bad harvest.”

If plants could speak, we would still hear something different. But the main question remains open - how to water the plants correctly? There are long-known rules of watering, but we often forget about them.

7 principles of drip irrigation:

1. Water deeper. The deeper the watering, the better the stimulation of root growth and, as a result, the plant’s resistance to external adverse factors.

2. Water under the root. To paraphrase Kozma Prutkov: “Look at the root!”, the same thing can be applied to watering. The leaves of the plant are not the main organ that needs watering, which cannot be said about its root.

3. Morning is wiser than evening. The best watering is done in the morning, when the soil has already cooled and the plant can be well saturated with water.

4. It’s better to underfill than overfill. This rule applies to all occasions, not to mention watering. Plants tolerate a lack of moisture much more easily than “swampiness,” which causes rot and reduces the quality of the fruit.

5. Pour with warm water. There is no plant that would not be shocked by cold water. Put yourself in his place. Try to provide your green pets with a comfortable temperature regime. This can be achieved using settled water in special garden barrels. You can also stretch a garden hose along the beds so that it warms up in the sun. When watering the beds, the water will have time to warm up when it passes through the heated hose.

6. Let the water soak in. Here I think everything is clear. Just watering should be done in small portions repeatedly for good absorption.

7. Water must be of high quality. This factor is also not the least important. Rainwater is considered the most beneficial water for plants. But it is difficult to collect it in the right amount, especially during the dry season. It is possible to settle the tap water, thereby allowing it to warm up.

So, the watering process is not a simple and costly task, which can be made easier through ingenuity and a competent approach. I solved this problem by offering drip irrigation to my plants. This watering method is easy to manage, inexpensive and most importantly beneficial for plants! Drip irrigation came to us from the arid places of Israel, where the problem of harvesting while saving water resources was extremely acute. At first, this method was used in the form of clay pots with holes buried next to the plants. The pots were filled with water and water seeped out through the holes in small portions. Today, drip irrigation has modernized and entered the life of many gardeners. If you are not yet familiar with this innovative method, then I propose to analyze all the advantages and draw the appropriate conclusions.


The main advantages of drip irrigation:

1. The plant will be watered carefully, economically and efficiently.
2. Weeds, diseases will be halved, and yields will rise significantly.

Do you need any more evidence? If this is enough, then I will share my experience of installing drip irrigation in my summer cottage.


6 decisive steps to drip irrigation:

1. First, you need to buy the necessary equipment: drip tape, connection fittings and a filter. All this is available in specialized stores or markets.

2. We decide on the source of water supply for our beds. For a drip irrigation system, it is unacceptable to exceed the pressure above 2 Atm. This is a very important aspect that affects the rate of droplet release. The lower the pressure, the slower the speed and vice versa.

And there are some nuances here:

  • Water from a garden barrel. If water is taken from a garden barrel, then 1 m of water = 0.1 atmospheres. You will need to constantly ensure that the water level in it does not fall and does not exceed 1-2 meters.
  • Water from a tap. Excess water pressure from a water tap is at least 0.1 Atm and maximum is 5 Atm. Therefore, here we need a special pressure regulator that will help control the pressure from the water supply.

3. The main element of the drip irrigation system is the drip tape. Mini-droppers are built inside it (at a distance of 10, 20 and 30 centimeters from each other), from which water is dosed. Do you need to decide what distance between the droppers inside the tape is right for you? To water the beds with cucumbers, I chose a dropper distance of 20 cm. If your plants are planted at a wide distance from each other, then droppers with an interval of 30 cm are suitable. The only drawback of the tapes is that the shelf life is no more than 2 years.

4. Connect the so-called ball valve to a container of water or to a water supply. Be sure to install a filter at the beginning of the line and periodically clean it from blockages. If you do not install a filter, the drippers will quickly fail due to the sand that comes with the water.

5. We lay a regular 16 mm HDPE pipe from the beginning of the main line, in which we make holes for installing splitters. This year I decided to use valves instead of such a splitter-fitting. At the beginning of each bed, I installed a valve at the base of the tape to easily regulate the flow of water to the plants. Suppose I do not need to water one bed, I turned off the valve, and the rest of the beds continue to be watered. Previously, if I needed to cover one bed, I had to fold the entire tape. In the process, you will understand where to use such a faucet and where not.

6. When unfolding the tapes on your beds, secure them with staples that you can make yourself so that the tape does not move from the desired point.

This is how “drop by drop” I brought relief not only to myself, but also to my plants in my summer cottage life. The harvest has grown noticeably and I have many like-minded people in the neighborhood. By the way, according to the budget, all equipment for drip irrigation is quite cheap. There is also a low-budget way to organize drip irrigation, but this will require you to be creative and diligent. More on this later


Plastic boom bottle

I think collecting the required number of plastic bottles will not be difficult. The main thing is that the bottles are at least 2 liters and have lids. The technology for creating one bottle dropper is not complicated: we twist the lid tightly, cut off the bottom, make holes with a hot nail and voila, you're done! The difficulty lies in the number of bottles you will need for the entire garden bed. Since each bottle will dig in next to the root of a single plant. Now do you understand what I meant when I talked about trying? You can not only dig in dropper bottles, but also hang them over the beds, attach them to a hose and arrange a little rain. You can stir your imagination as you like, as long as it is for the benefit of the plants and not a burden to you. We set the bottle at an angle of 45 degrees at a depth of 15 cm. The disadvantage of this method is that it is desirable to install bottle droppers only when planting plants. And the second disadvantage is the high risk of clogging the holes. Try, experiment and share your ideas!