How to build a one-piece stand collar. 1-piece stand collar

The one-piece collar is formed in front by a continuation of the bodice. The back of the collar is cut out along with the front of the bodice. Such collars can be worn urgently, but most often they are made with lapels.

One-piece collars are used in cases where the accuracy of details is not of great importance or simplification of processing is required (light blouses, casual dresses, etc.).

Lapel collar(Fig. 316) are usually folded back on the sides of the neck.

Rice. 316

On the front of the drawing of the bodice, draw a half-skid line and mark the buttons (Fig. 317). The width of the half skid is 2 cm.

Rice. 317

Continue mid-front line up.

Draw a line perpendicular to the line of the shoulder, which will indicate the stand line of the back of the collar. Set aside a segment from below along this line equal to the length of the neck of the back (notch 1; for example, 6 cm).

When measuring the length of the neck of the back, subtract the size of the opening of the tucks, if any.

From notch 1, draw a line to the right perpendicular to the line of the rack, set aside the desired height of the rack along it and put notch 2.

The height of the rack is always limited by the length of the neck; in this case it is 8 cm.

From notch 2, draw a line parallel to the line of the rack (notch 3).

Draw the fold line of the lapel. Put a point in the middle of the distance between notch 3 and the line of the shoulder. 0.2-0.3 cm to the left of this point, draw a slightly curved line running from the middle of the collar parallel to the stand line, and then to notch 4, located on the half-slip line at the level of the first loop.

In most of these collars, the lapels do not have a sharp inflection line, so it does not need to be drawn.

To build a lapel, transfer the collar template onto a sheet of paper, leaving small allowances for seams along the lines that will not change - the shoulder line, stand, middle of the collar, the line segment between notches 2 and 3 and the lower part of the half-skid line from notch 4.

Leave a wide margin between notches 3 and 4.

Cut the paper along the lines of the shoulder and rack.

Fold the collar along the fold line, place the middle of the collar in the proper position, fasten it to the figure and outline the lapel; then put the drawing on the table and refine the shape of the lapel.

To improve the fit of the collar, a small tuck is laid in the area between the shoulder line and part of the neck line of the base (Fig. 318). On the translated pattern, continue the line of the collar stand down. Then smoothly connect it to the front neckline.

The length of the tuck is 2/3 of the length of the front neckline. The value of its solution, which varies depending on the curvature of the neck of the front base, is approximately 1 cm.

On the pattern (Fig. 319), mark the width of the selection at the level of the first button. The pick-up should close the loops and have an allowance of 1-2 cm. It is usually made 8-10 cm wide.

Rice. 319

Continue the line upward obliquely so that along the shoulder line it is 2-3 cm away from the neck line.

Determine the direction of the stock thread of the selection. In this case, there can be two options for the share direction of NITI:

1. Along the mid front line. This is the simplest solution, but the result will be a seam in the middle of the collar.
2. In the middle of the collar to avoid a seam. In this case, a different direction of the threads is formed on both parts of the selection.

Cutting a one-piece collar in the oblique direction of the fabric thread does not affect the quality of the product, especially if a side gasket is provided. But if the clothes are often washed and the fabric is characterized by significant shrinkage, it is necessary to place the middle of the front of the selection along the shared thread.

The lower part of the selection is cut out along the shared thread. To do this, cut off the pattern of the selection a few centimeters below the first loop and cut it out separately (see the arrow in Fig. 319).

In the product shown in Fig. 320, the collar fits less to the neck and lies more flat on the shoulders.

Rice. 320

To build a collar, transfer the drawing shown in fig. 318. Divide the back of the collar into four parallel strips (Fig. 321).

Rice. 321

Transfer the drawing again to another sheet of paper, pushing each strip 0.8 cm apart (Fig. 322).

Rice. 322

The expansion value can be reduced or increased as desired from 0.4 to 1.2 cm.

Draw the collar drop line (solid line) in the same way as in the previous collar. In this case, the fold line runs closer to the rack.

Transfer a small neck tuck to the template, using the drawing in fig. 318.

The drawing of the selection is built, as mentioned above.

A shawl-type collar, one-piece with a selection, is shown in fig. 323. When processing such a collar, the lower collar is sewn into the neck, which contributes to its better fit.

Rice. 323

To build a drawing of a collar on a shelf, draw a half-skid line and mark the buttons (Fig. 324).

Rice. 324

On the shoulder line at a distance of 3 cm from the neck line, indicate the point through which the inclined line will pass, marking the line of the collar stand. This value corresponds to medium and large sizes of products (for a chest circumference of at least 90 cm). For small sizes, the value of 3 cm is reduced by 0.2 cm for every 5 cm of size to a minimum value of 1.6 cm (for example, for a chest circumference of 90 cm and more - 3, for 85 - 2.8, for 80 - 2 .6 cm, etc.).

Through the marked point, draw the line of the collar stand, tangent to the neck line at point 1.

From notch 1, measure the length of the neck line to the shoulder line and transfer this value to the stand line. Put a notch 2. This notch can be located above, below the shoulder line, and sometimes on the very line of the shoulder.

Along the line of the stand (base) of the collar, set aside up from the notch 2 a segment equal to the length of the neck of the back minus the size of the opening of the back tucks, if any. Place notch 3.

From notch 3, draw a line in the middle of the collar, perpendicular to the base, mark the width of the collar on it and place rice. 324 notch 4.

Draw a departure line parallel to the base line of the collar, equal to the length of the neck of the back, and put a notch 5.

To build a collar fold line, put a point in the middle between notches 2 and 5. The stand fold line runs 0.4-0.5 cm to the left of this point.

Mark the line of departure of the collar. Bend the paper along the fold line of the collar from notch 6 on the half-skid line to the level of notch 1. Attach the pattern to the figure and outline the lapel. Put the template on the table and refine the marked line from notch 6 to notch 5. Continue the neckline from notch 1 to the departure line and put notch 7.

On the prepared drawing, build the lower part of the selection (down from the chest line), as shown in Fig. 325.

Rice. 325

At notch level 2, draw a 1.5 cm long segment to the left and connect the resulting point with the selection at the level of the chest line.

The direction of the share thread of the selection is chosen.

The edge of the pick-up from the notch level 1 (see Fig. 324) to the shoulder line must be pulled back.

To check the correct location of the bead line, transfer a part of the collar from fig. 324 and transfer all notches there (Fig. 326). Translate part of the bodice. Transfer the drawing of these two parts to cotton fabric, placing the lines of the middle of the front and collar along the longitudinal thread of the fabric (for one side of the figure).

Rice. 326 Cut out the details, leaving allowances for the seams and a supply of fabric along the lapel (dashed lines behind notch 7).

Draw a line in the middle of the front and mark the top button.

Stitch the collar into the neckline along the stand line, i.e. from notch 2 to notch 7, then behind notch 7. Notch and iron the seam.

Attach the collar to the figure, bending it in the required place. Correct the bead line if necessary.

Rice. 327

The line of departure of the collar shown in fig. 327, outline as shown in fig. 328.

Rice. 328

Pull the collar between notches 1 and 2 and place the fabric flat on the table. Put the fabric on the auxiliary pattern (see Fig. 324) and transfer the new bead line there.

The neck line in such a collar should be completed, as shown in fig. 328.

Rice. 329

A collar of a shirt type, cut with selections, can be worn closed (Fig. 329) or with open lapels (Fig. 330).

Rice. 330

Draw a collar, one-piece with a selection, and slightly expand it (Fig. 331).

Rice. 331

Draw a line for the neck of the collar and bodice along the neck of the base (from notch 1 to notch 8). Specify the width of the collar and the half-skid line. Draw the line of departure of the collar according to the model.

When doing this, do not make too sharp an angle at the end of the collar, as it is difficult to process.

The selection is built as described above.

The drawings of the given collars can be used not only for dresses, but also for coats.

The emergency collar (Fig. 332) should fit snugly around the neck, for which the inclination of the classic collar stand should be changed.

Rice. 332

Draw the collar line as shown in fig. 333, i.e., the oblique crosses the shoulder line at a distance of 2 cm from the neck line (instead of 3 cm).

Rice. 333

For products of small sizes, proportionally reduce this value, as indicated for the classic collar.

Just as for a one-piece classic collar, transfer the length of the front neck line from notch 1 to the shoulder line to this inclined line, and then the length of the back neck line between notches 2 and 3.

Draw a line perpendicular to the line of the collar stand, in accordance with the width of the collar (average 3-4 cm).

Draw the collar fly-off line along the neck of the back (parallel to the front, between notches 4 and 5).

On the bodice, draw the lines of the half-skid, neckline and departure according to the model.

The line of the collar stand needs to be clarified, i.e., draw it smoothly, starting from notch 2 down (Fig. 334).

Rice. 334

Check that the lengths of the collar stand and the neck line match. If necessary, change the length of the collar stand by moving the center line.

The pick-up is cut out separately or one-piece with a collar.

The stand-up collar is formed by the continuation of the front and back of the bodice (Fig. 335). So that such a collar does not cause creases on the bodice, you need to take into account the difference in the inclination of the neck in relation to the bodice.

Rice. 335

Take the base pattern of the back and transfer it to a piece of paper. Draw a tuck from the neck line. To do this, increase the width of the neck of the back by 0.5 cm and reduce the size of the opening of the shoulder tuck by the same amount. Close it and draw a new line of the shoulder section through a new point in the width of the neck of the back, without changing its height (see Fig. 336, a, solid line). Continue the line of the middle of the back up, and through the new point of the width of the neck of the back, draw up a straight line parallel to the line of the middle of the back (dashed line). Set aside a 4 cm long segment on this straight line and set aside 1.5 cm horizontally to the left of the obtained point (numbers in circles). Draw the line of the rack, as shown in Fig. 336, d.

Rice. 336

Draw the contours of the collar horizontally or parallel to the neckline of the back (see Fig. 336, b).

To draw a tuck, first mark its middle, placing the tuck in the middle of line 1-2. On both sides of the middle line of the tuck, set aside segments equal to 0.4-0.5 cm. The length of the tuck is 6-8 cm from the neck line. Connect the dots. The tuck can have both vertical and inclined positions. In this case, the shoulder tuck should be parallel to the tuck from the neck.

On the front of the bodice through the highest point of the shoulder cut, draw a horizontal line 4 cm long and through the resulting point, draw up a vertical line 3 cm long. Draw the stand line, as shown in fig. 337 a. To the right along this line, set aside a segment equal to the width of the rack (Fig. 337, b), and draw the contours of the collar along the model.

Rice. 337

On the front of the bodice, you need to draw two small tucks. Take their direction the same as on the back.

On both sides of the middle of the front neckline, 2 cm to the left and 1 cm to the right of it, mark the middle of the tucks with parallel lines. The size of the solution of each tuck along the neck line is 3-4 cm, and the length is 5-6 cm. The size and slope of the tucks depend on the figure, fabric, fashion, etc.

The selection in products with a standing one-piece collar is drawn for the front, as shown in Fig. 145 and 146 with the addition of part of the collar. The darts of the neck of the pick-up front should be drawn only for a fabric that is not elastic enough. At the same time, the darts are moved a little so that they do not overlap with the darts of the main fabric.

The back of the collar is treated with an oblique strip with a width equal to the width of the front band.

This type of collar is more often used in outerwear. Therefore, a one-piece rack is built on the base drawings of a coat, jacket or jacket.

A stand-up collar drawing is built on an expanded neck. How much to expand the neck is up to you, in accordance with the style that you have chosen for sewing. This value fluctuates within a fairly significant range of 0-5 cm or more. The higher the rack, the wider the neck should be. The height of the stand can also be different. If we talk about average values, then this is 4-8 cm.

Note. The presence or absence of a seam in the middle of the back matters! The construction in these two versions will not be significant, but differ. Today we are building a one-piece coat rack pattern. with a seam down the middle of the back.

And so, suppose we need to build a one-piece stand-up collar for a fashionable O-shaped coat with a seam in the middle of the back. For this task, we need to determine the height of the rack and, accordingly, the width of the neck. Let's expand the neckline by 2.5 cm and take the height of the stand to be 8 cm, since the coat is quite voluminous, then we will make the stand accordingly.

Copy on separate sheets of paper details coat basics: backs and shelves. If you take ready-made patterns of a particular coat model, then keep in mind that the neck has already undergone design changes in accordance with the style. How to proceed in this case, I will tell later.

And now we are focusing our attention on the drawing of the back and proceed to the design of the rack.

We expand the neck of the back by 2.5 cm. To do this, from the top of the neck, set aside the required value along the shoulder cut of the back and set point O. Draw a new neck line by connecting points A and O - we will need this line later to build a tuck.

Draw vertical lines from points A and O upwards.

From point A upwards, set aside the height of the rack and set point O1. In our example, the height of the rack will be 8 cm, and you set aside your value. Remember, the height of the rack can be different.

From the point O upwards, we set aside the height of the rack minus 0.5-1 cm and set the point O2 (8-0.5 \u003d 7.5 cm). Those. slightly lower the height of the rack at the level of the shoulder cut. This value is not constant, its average values ​​are in the range of 0.5-1 cm.

Now we need to do bevel on the center line of the rackAO1. To do this, to the left of the point O1, set aside the value of the bevel. The value of the bevel can also be different, within 0.5-2 cm. We will stop at the average values, for example, take 1 cm and set aside from point O1 to the left and set point O3. We draw the middle line of the rack, connecting points A and O3.

Doing bevel along the shoulder line OO2. As a rule, the value of this bevel can be equal to or less than the value of the bevel along the center line. The amount of bevel depends on the style of the product, on the degree of fit of the stand to the neck, etc. We take the value of 0.7 cm and set aside it from the point O2 to the left, put the point O4.

We make out the line of the upper cut of the rack. The configuration of the upper line of the rack, depending on the specified parameters, can be designed as a straight line or a smooth line. It is important that the upper contour fits at a right angle to the center line of the stand - this is the general rule for constructing patterns for all collars.

We make out shoulder line smooth curve as shown in figure 4.

To ensure product fit along the neckline of the back let's build a tuck.
The tuck is located in the middle of the AO section.

Dart solution on the back is usually in the range of 0.7-1 cm. We take 1 cm.

Dart length equal to twice the height of the rack. In our case, this is 8x2 = 16 cm, while the top of the tuck should not reach the top cut of the rack by 0.5 cm.

Through the middle of the AO section, we draw a line parallel to the line of the shoulder section of the rack.
On the neck line, we distribute a solution of tuck 1 cm on both sides of the center line of the tuck - this is 0.5 cm each.

Down from the neck line of the joint stock company we set aside 8 cm.

We lower the top of the tuck by 0.5 cm from the top line of the rack. And we draw a tuck, as shown in Figure 5.

One-piece rack on the back is built.

Now let's start building the rack on the shelf.

In our example, the coat has a fastener with loops and buttons, so in the middle of the front we give an allowance, stepping back from the middle line of the front 3-4 cm, we draw a line of the edge of the side along the entire length of the shelf pattern.

The width of the side for a coat can be different, it depends on several factors and is determined in accordance with the style. In our example, the width of the board is 3 cm.

Now let's build the rack.

Just as on the back, expand the neckline by 2.5 cm, denote the expansion point with the letter C.

From point C upwards, we set aside the height of the rack minus 0.5 cm - just like on the back, we lower the shoulder section of the rack by 0.5 cm (8-0.5 \u003d 7.5 cm) and set point C1.

Doing bevel along the shoulder line CC1. To do this, set aside 2 cm to the right of point C1 and set point C2.

We make out shoulder line smooth curve as shown in the figure.

From point B upwards, set aside the height of the rack 8 cm and set point B1. By the way, the height of the front rack may be different and may not depend on the height of the rack on the back. In our example, it could well be 9-10 cm, or, conversely, be much less important if the style of the product suggested this.

Bevel on the front line the rack can be 2-4 cm. Set aside the bevel value to the right of point B1 and set point B2.

We draw the line of the upper cut of the rack with a smooth line, as shown in the figure. We make out the front cut of the rack with a straight line.

Construction of a tuck on a shelf.

To ensure a good fit of the product on the figure, it is necessary to remove the resulting excess neck width into the tuck.

The location of the tuck on the shelf depends on the style, on the features of the figure, etc. We will build a standard version. The direction of the tuck is perpendicular to the neck line.

Dart solution on the shelf is usually in the range of 1-1.5 cm. We take 1.5 cm.

Dart length on the shelf, as well as on the back, is taken depending on the height of the rack. In our case, this is 16 cm (double the height of the rack).

The center of the tuck is located on the neck line, at a distance of 1/3 of its length from the center line of the shelf. Simply put, we measure the length of the neckline from the midline of the shelf to the shoulder and divide by three. We postpone the result obtained from the middle line of the shelf and build a tuck. We distribute the solution of the tuck along the neck line 1.5 cm: 2 = 0.75 cm. Down from the neck line, set aside 8 cm, and the top of the tuck should not reach the top cut of the rack by 0.5 cm.

That's all! Work for 20 minutes.

And remember, there are no hard and fast rules! Only those who go beyond the standards can receive an unusual, i.e. extraordinary, exceptional, special, unique result.

Experiment! Good luck!

Collar - an element of the product, characterized by the "flexibility" of the form. There are a huge number of its modifications, so for each type of face, physique and other individual characteristics, you can choose the ideal option. Most collars have a similar design - this is a visible part and a stand hidden from the eyes, separated from each other by an inflection. The details have a key difference - the way they connect to the bodice.

The element can be detachable (it is sewn along the cut line) or one-piece. In the second case, it is usually cut out in one piece with the front and back. This is how you can model:

• classic one-piece stand-up collars - with a hidden part height from 3.5-4.5 to 7-8 cm;
• standing-turn-down models with racks 2.5-3.5 cm;
• semi-erect and flat-lying varieties - with a height of up to 2 cm and 5 mm, respectively.

At the racks, the width of the flying part can vary (up to 25 cm), deaf or open fasteners. They fit snugly to the neck or frame it effectively, leaving a short distance. The choice of the final form depends only on the wishes of the future owner of the thing. The racks that are cut out along with the product have features - they must be taken into account when sewing clothes.

vigostore.ru

Features of one-piece racks

A one-piece collar is convenient to build on widened necks. This is due to the peculiarities of the style - it is most often used for outerwear, jackets, dresses and tops made of dense fabric, which is organically combined with a strict style. To make the part look beautiful, the product is processed with a wet-heat method using an iron. Fabrics that are used for uprights rarely stretch and their WTO on a narrow neckline can be problematic.

Most often, when building such collars, craftsmen start from the basic drawings of jackets, jackets and coats. The degree of expansion of the neck depends on the style of the product and the personal preferences of the owner. The value can vary from one to 5 centimeters and even more. There is a general "constructive" principle: with an increase in the height of the rack, the expansion along the neck should also grow. When creating a pattern, it is imperative to take into account the presence or absence of a middle seam on the back of the product. The sequence of modeling in the two cases is different.

If there is no seam connection, you need to build the part vertically, focusing on the middle line along the back. The upper section of the collar is slightly shifted, and the connection of the stand with the shoulder is carried out smoothly. In most cases, the excess width is removed in tucks. Their end should be located at a distance from the edge of the rack (at least half a centimeter), and the length depends on the height of the collar.

studfiles.net

Construction of a basic drawing of a one-piece rack

The pattern of the classic variety of such a collar is built according to the standard scheme. The work begins with drawing a right angle - the vertex is in the upper left corner, the rays are directed to the right side and down.

First draw up the stitching line:

1. a horizontal line is laid from the original vertex according to the measure of the half-girth in the neck (with an increase of half a centimeter);
2. from the end of the segment to the right, an allowance is made for a half-skid (its edge rises by 3-5 mm);
3. from the original vertex lay 2-4 centimeters along the midline, marking the end with a dot;
4. the obtained marks are connected by an auxiliary line - it must be divided into three, indicating the division points;
5. from the first division point, a perpendicular straight line is drawn upward and half a centimeter is measured;
6. smoothly connect the auxiliary intermediate marks of the curve.

The construction of the rack begins from the auxiliary points along the vertical, and its protrusions are drawn smoothly, in the form of rounded curves. Next, a take-off cut is constructed with a deposit along the midline up to 9-10 cm (along the width of the part on the reverse side). From the end of this segment to the right, a horizontal is laid off after crossing with a vertical, extended by 1-4 centimeters. Then you need to display the length of the angle and smoothly connect the marks.

sdelala-sama.ru

Building Adjacent Racks

Depending on the degree of fit of the one-piece rack, it is built differently on the drawing. If the collar should tightly cover the neck, you first need to model the back. Circle the main pattern and find the location of the highest and lowest points. Continue the line in the center of the back up to the height of the rack, and mark the end of the segment.

Progress

1. From the highest point of the sprout, lay vertically the height of the stand along the shoulder (the value along the midline minus 1 centimeter).
2. From the end of the segment horizontally to the left and vertically, build up lines 1 cm long and smoothly connect the ends, continuing the curve to the cut on the shoulder.
3. Outline the drawing of the front (shoulder tuck should be moved to the side cut) and mark the highest and lowest points along the neckline.
4. From the highest mark, build a cut line along the shoulder to the right side and from its end bring up a segment at half the height along the rack (the angle must be right).
5. From the end built above the segment, draw a smooth curve to the highest point on the neck.

The height of the rack in the center of the front part is adjusted according to the parameter in the shoulder section - they must be equal (although you can determine the value from the model). It is permissible to bring the upper cut of the part to the depth of the cutout or draw it along the edge of the side, if a fastener is provided along the front. When building, be sure to set control marks - at the highest points on the sprout and neck.

stylefashion.com.ua

Collar design

One-piece rack can be designed "at a distance" from the neck. The modeling technique is similar to tight-fitting varieties: first, they build the back, tracing the main details on a paper sheet, and then expand the sprout by 1-3 centimeters.

Progress

1. Continue up the midline to the height of the rack.
2. From the point at the end of the expansion of the sprout, vertically set aside the height of the stand at the shoulder (the corresponding parameter is in the center minus 1 centimeter).
3. Connect the ends of the two lines drawn above by smoothly drawing a concave curve.
4. Make a side cut along the control point along the bottom of the sprout.
5. Make a tuck - the new line of the sprout is divided in two, on one half an element is made with a solution of 1 centimeter and a length along the height of the rack.

The construction of the front also starts from the main pattern. It is circled, in the resulting drawing, the highest and lowest points along the cutout are marked. If the product should have a fastener, in the middle you need to make an allowance of up to 3 cm for a half-skid.

1. from the end of the expansion, a vertical is drawn - the height along the rack from the seam in the shoulder;
2. from the point at the end of the segment, a horizontal line of about 2 centimeters is drawn to the right;
3. from the extended segment for half-skid up, measure the height along the rack with a centimeter increase;
4. from the obtained point to the right, a horizontal line of 2 centimeters is drawn.

The resulting auxiliary points are smoothly connected by concave curves - these are cuts from above and from the side. When making tucks, ⅓ of the length of the new neck is taken as the height, and 1-1.5 centimeters are left for the solution.

club.season.ru

Designing products with a seam in the center of the back

Many fashionable one-piece oversized coats have a seam in the middle of the back. To design a collar for such a product, you need to expand the neck to the desired volume and, accordingly, increase the height of the collar. Details of clothing are copied separately, and an element is modeled on them, starting from the back. An extension is made on it (about 2-2.5 cm) - the value is set aside along the cut on the shoulder and marked with a dot. From it, a line is drawn along the neck again (it will be needed to decorate the tucks).

Progress

1. Postpone the height of the stand and lower it along the shoulder cut (the height is reduced by 5-10 mm).
2. Make a bevel of about 5-20 mm and draw a new middle axis for the rack.
3. Make a bevel along the shoulder line, equal to or less than in the center.
4. Draw the upper cut of the element - straight or smoothly, according to the model.
5. Draw a smooth curve along the line of the shoulder.
6. Build a tuck to fit along the neck on the back: a solution of 7-10 mm (evenly distributed on both sides), length - two heights along the rack.

The next stage is modeling the part on the shelf.

1. If the product must have fasteners and buttons, you will need an allowance in the center of the front (depart from the middle 3-4 cm).
2. The edge along the board is drawn for the entire length of the shelf. It is necessary to expand the cutout by 2-2.5 cm, mark its end with a dot.
3. From this point, set aside the height of the element minus 5 mm (the cut along the shoulder is lowered similarly to the back).
4. Smoothly shape the line of the shoulder in the form of a curve.
5. Draw a bevel along the front line in the form of a straight line, and the upper cut in the form of a smooth curve.
6. Remove the extra width into the tuck, the location of which is selected according to the style and figure (it is usually placed perpendicular to the neck) - a solution of 1-1.5 centimeters, length along the rack.

liveinternet.ru

To find where the central axis of the tuck is located, you need to measure its length and set aside ⅓ of the value from the midline of the shelf. The solution is distributed along the cutout, and the top is finished without bringing half a centimeter to the top cut on the rack. In a similar way, collars can be modeled on other bulky products - jackets, jackets.

The upper part of the shawl collar is always cut out along with the selection. The lower collar can be cut together with a shelf (one-piece) or a separate piece.

Consider the sequence of making a one-piece shawl collar using the example of a silk vest from:

Pattern:

A crepe vest with a shawl collar, fastened with one hidden button, will make a worthy a…

The shoulder seams must be completed before the shawl collar can be sewn. Overcast seam allowances and iron.

Step 1

Fold the shelves with the front sides, on the one-piece lower collar with shelves, make the back middle seam. Overcast the inner section of the collar.

Step 2

Sew the lower collar into the neck of the back, laying lines in both directions from the line of the middle of the back, then sew the tucks with the same lines. Cut the seam allowances in the rounded areas in several places, iron them out. Press the tuck depths forward.

Step 3

Fold the pick-up with the front sides, on the one-piece top collar with pick-ups, make the back middle seam. Iron the seam allowances.

Step 4

Pin the facing of the neck of the back to the pick-ups with a one-piece upper collar with the right side to the front side and stitch to the inner cut of the upper collar between the corners. Notch in the corners close to the last stitches of the seam (arrow).

Step 5

Sew along the shoulder cuts along the shoulder sections (in this pattern, this is a reference mark 7). Cut seam allowances close to the seams, notch and iron. Overcast the inner cuts of the bands and the facing of the neck of the back.

Step 6

Pin the collar and back collar with the upper collar to the fronts and the lower collar with the right side to the front side, while the lapels of the fronts and the upper collar should be slightly larger than the lapels of the fronts and the lower collar. Lay a line along the lower sections of the shelves, sections of the sides and collar. Cut the seam allowances close to the line, not reaching 2 cm to the ends of the edges. Notch the seam allowances in the areas of rounding.

Step 7

Turn the collar inside out, turn the hem and facing of the neck of the back to the wrong side. Sweep and iron the edges. Bend the collar and shelves along the fold lines, baste the upper collar with oblique running stitches.

Step 8

Accurately chop off the seams of the stitching of the collars and sew with a hand seam “back of the needle”.

Source and illustrations: Burda 6/2018

The one-piece collar consists of two parts. The lower part of one-piece collars is cut out together with the shelf, and the upper part with the selection (in the selections, an extension is allowed 2.5-3 cm below the upper loop). In form, one-piece collars, like set-in collars, can be with a larger or smaller stand, close to the neck or lagging behind.

The drawings are also built on the patterns of the front of the bodice. The exception is a one-piece stand-up collar, the drawing of which is performed on the patterns of the back and front of the bodice.

1.One-piece stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.

Back. Circle the main pattern of the back. The highest point of the sprout is denoted by the letter P, the bottom - R 1 . The line of the middle of the back continues up 3-4 cm (stand height) and put a point A:R 1 A= 3-4 cm

from point R up vertically lay the height of the stand on the shoulder - it is equal to the height of the stand in the middle of the back minus 1 cm; put an end to R 2 :

RR 2 = R 1 A- 1 = (3-4) - 1 = 2-3 cm

from point R 2 to the left horizontally and from the point R 1 cm are laid up vertically. Both points of 1 cm are connected by a smooth curve, continuing it to the shoulder cut.

Before. Outline the main pattern of the front with the shoulder tuck moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter IN, lower - IN 1 . Shoulder cut line from point IN continue to the right to the height of the rack and indicate IN 2 :

BB 2 = 2-3 cm

From a point IN 2 up at a right angle to the extended line of the shoulder, a segment is drawn equal to 1/2 of the height of the rack; put an end to IN 3 .

IN 2 IN 3 = (BB 2: 2) = (2-3) : 2 = 1-1.5cm

point IN 3 connect with a smooth curve to a point IN. The height of the stand in the middle of the front is equal to its height along the shoulder section or is determined by the model. The upper cut of the collar can be brought to the depth of the neck - the point IN 1 , and if in front with a clasp - decorated to the edge of the side. Control points are marked at the highest points of the sprout and neck.

2. One-piece stand-up collar lagging behind the neck.
Back. On a sheet of paper, outline the main pattern of the back. The highest point of the sprout is denoted by the letter R, lower - R 1 . Expand the sprout by 1-3 cm (point R 2):

RR 2=1-3 cm

The middle line continues upwards by 6-8 cm (stand height) and put a point A:

R 1 A= 6-8 cm

from point R 2 up vertically lay the height of the stand on the shoulder, equal to its height in the middle minus 1 cm; put an end to A 1 :

R 2 A 1 = (R 1 A- 1) = (6-8) - 1 = 5-7 cm

points A 1 And A connect with a smooth concave curve. If the back is with a seam, the stand line is continued to the left by 0.5 cm and the 0.5 cm point is connected under the ruler with the point R 1 .

from point A 1 lay to the left 0.5 cm from the point R 2 up vertically - 1 cm. Connecting the points of 0.5 cm and 1 cm with a smooth concave curve, draw up a line of the side cut of the rack. Control point - at the point R 2

At half the length of the new sprout line, a tuck is made. Its solution is 1 cm, the length up and down from the sprout line corresponds to the height of the rack 6-8 cm.

Before. Outline the main pattern of the front. The highest point of the neck is indicated by a dot IN, lower IN 1 . If there is a fastener, they give it to the middle of the front when starting on a half-skid with a width of 2.5-3 cm (point IN 2 ). Expand the neck by 1-3 cm (point IN 3):

BB 3=1-3 cm

from point IN 3 up vertically, a segment is drawn equal to the height of the backrest at the shoulder seam; put an end to AT 4:

IN 3 IN 4 = R 2 A 1=5-7cm

from point AT 4 lay 2 cm to the right horizontally, put a dot IN 5:

IN 4 B 5 = 2 cm

From point B 2 up along the extended line, the edges of the half-skid lay a segment equal to the height of the rack plus 1 cm; put an end to IN 6:

IN 2 IN 6 = (IN 3 IN 4 + 1) = (5-7) + 1 = 6-8 cm

from point AT 6 2 cm are laid to the right horizontally (point B 7):

IN 6 IN 7=2cm

They decorate the upper and side sections of the collar, connecting the points with smooth concave curves IN 5 And IN 7 ,IN 5 And IN 3 . points IN 7 and IN 2 are connected under the ruler. Control point - at the point IN 3 .

The tucks are made for 1/3 of the length of the new neck line (excluding the half-skid). Its solution is 1-1.5 cm, the length up and down from the neckline corresponds to the height of the rack 6-8 cm.

3. Stand-up collar.

IN, lower - IN 1 .

Collar line. from point IN 1 lay 15-20 cm along the line of the middle of the front and mark the position of the upper loop. A point 15-20 cm is connected to a point IN under the ruler and continue the line up beyond the shoulder cut.

The line of stitching into the sprout. IN up lay a segment equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A:

AB\u003d POsh: 3 + 1 \u003d 18: 3 + 1 \u003d 7 cm

From a point A the perpendicular is restored to the left, on which 1.5 cm is laid (for a higher rack - 2-3 cm). Points 1.5 cm and B are connected by a slightly convex curve. Its length is compared with the length of the sprout and, if necessary, the line is continued upwards.

Medium cut. From a point A the perpendicular is restored to the right, on which 8 cm are laid; put an end to A 1:

AA 1=8 cm

point A 1 cross with a line parallel to the line of inclination of the collar. On it from the point A 1 up lay 2 cm. Points 2 cm and A connected by an auxiliary line.

from point A along the auxiliary line lay 6-14 cm and put a dot A 2 .

The entire width of the collar - a segment from the point 1.5 cm to the point A 2 is divided into 3 parts and the left division point is connected to the refined line of stitching into the sprout.

The take-off cut is drawn with a line perpendicular to the line of the middle cut (it can be straight or concave - in style). The size and configuration of the departure will be specified on the figure. To do this, the pattern is cut out with allowances of 3-5 cm for the departure cuts. The lower part of the collar is also cut out on the fabric with an allowance for refining the size and configuration of the departure. The upper collar with a selection is cut out after fitting, when the configuration and size of the lower collar are clarified.

Allowance for half skid (2.5 cm) is set aside from the upper loop - points 15-20 cm.

When building shawl collar the construction begins with the connection of the point of the beginning of the lapel of the side with the upper point of the shoulder cut and the neck.

This line is continued to the length of the neck of the back. To obtain collars with varying degrees of fit to the neck, the deviation of the stitching line from the straight line at the top point can be 1-4 cm towards the shoulder cut.

Having set the required value for the deviation of the smooth curve, draw a line for stitching the collar into the neck of the back. In the area corresponding to the back of the product, this line runs almost parallel to the line of stitching into the neck, then a smooth, evenly curved curve is brought to the beginning of the lapel lapel. The line of the middle of the collar is built on a perpendicular from the extreme point of the collar stitching to the stitching line. On the middle line, mark the desired collar width.

On the basis of this collar, by changing the configuration of the flight, you can get many options for one-piece collars.

4. Flat-lying one-piece collar.

Trace the front pattern on a piece of paper. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter IN.

Collar line. The position point of the upper loop is connected under the ruler with a point IN and continue the line up over the shoulder cut.

The line of stitching into the sprout. On the line of inclination of the collar from the point IN up lay a segment equal to 1/3 of the measurement of the half-girth of the neck, and put a point A:

AB= POsh :3=18:3=6cm

From a point A restore the perpendicular to the left.

The backrest pattern is applied to the contour of the front so that the highest point of the germ coincides with the highest point of the neck, and the lowest point of the germ is on the line drawn from the point A. Circle the sprout and the middle of the back.

Medium cut. From the sprout along the line of the middle of the back, lay 7-14 cm - the width of the collar at the back.

flyaway cut arrange in style. The configuration and size of the departure are specified in the same way as when constructing a one-piece stand-up collar.

When constructing patterns for jacket-type collars on a base pattern, determine the position of the rake line, i.e., the line of stitching the collar into the neck on the turn-down part of the bead. The position of this line is determined by the fashion and desire of the author of the product. The upper part of this line runs along the neck of the shelf, and then is drawn simultaneously with the line of the ledge of the lapel. Having outlined the lapel, depending on the position of its ledge, the lines of the ledge and the departure of the collar are drawn. The collar pattern is cut off from the shelf pattern along the rake line.

If set-in collars of this type must have a deep, curved neck, the neckline is drawn on a pattern of a smooth curve from the point where the lapel lapel starts (or the collar is sewn in) to the upper point of the shoulder cut and neck. The deviation of this line from the straight line connecting the points is usually 1-2 cm. The collar stitching line is built symmetrically with a straight line, and its deepening is also 1-2 cm.

Options for fancy collars for an open neck.