What is the best way to lay linoleum on a wooden floor? Is it possible to lay linoleum on an uneven wooden base?
Every person strives to make their home as cozy and comfortable as possible. And the flooring plays an important role in this process. Today there are a large number of varieties of floor coverings.
They differ in their external characteristics, cost, durability and strength. And the most popular type of material is linoleum. This coverage is affordable for every person.
In this article we will similarly talk about the advantages, types and rules for choosing such material. We’ll also tell you how to properly lay linoleum on a wooden floor.
Features of the material
Today, the vast majority of buyers know linoleum as an inexpensive, practical, synthetic material.
However, not everyone knows that initially this flooring was completely natural. It was made entirely from natural ingredients: tree resin and flour, jute, linseed oil and other products. This coating was completely safe for human health and the environment. However, the cost of the material was quite high. Therefore, natural linoleum has not become as widespread as its synthetic counterpart.
Modern linoleum consists of several layers. The backing is most often made of polyvinyl chloride, rubber or fabric. Depending on this, linoleum is divided into several varieties:
- PVC. This type of flooring is the most common. It has excellent performance characteristics. However, it is completely unstable to low temperatures;
- relin. Perhaps this is the most plastic and moisture-resistant type of linoleum. The outer layer of relin is made of rubber, and the backing consists of bitumen and crushed rubber;
- marmoleum. This type of linoleum is noticeably different from others. Because it is made from environmentally friendly materials and is completely safe for human health and the environment. This coating is characterized by hypoallergenic and antibacterial properties. You can lay it in the children's room without fear;
- griftal. In another way, this type of linoleum is called alkyd. The production of this type of material is carried out by applying special resins to a textile base. This material is characterized by excellent heat and sound-absorbing qualities;
- nitrocellulose or colloxylin material. This flooring also has high performance characteristics. However, over time it may become deformed.
Linoleum is also classified depending on its purpose and comes in three types:
- domestic. The name of this type of material speaks for itself. Household linoleum is intended for residential premises and is not very thick. The material is quite wear-resistant, but is not intended for excessive loads. Most often it consists of one or two layers. The design options for such floor coverings are very diverse: from plain coatings to imitation stone, marble, tiles or laminate;
- semi-commercial. This coating option is thicker and more durable. It is noticeably more durable and slightly more expensive than household linoleum. Designed for rooms with average traffic;
- commercial. This is the most durable and reliable type of linoleum. It is incredibly durable, and for this reason, the cost of this option is the highest of all listed. Most often, commercial linoleum is laid in rooms with extremely high traffic. For example, in shops, schools, hospitals, kindergartens.
Let's look at the main advantages of linoleum over other floor coverings: thanks to which it has become so popular among buyers:
- Democratic price. It is for the price-quality ratio that such material has become so widespread. Anyone can cover the floor in their home with linoleum, regardless of the size of their wallet. Of course, there are a large number of types of this material, which differ significantly in cost. However, everyone will still be able to choose the material in accordance with their budget.
This material will cost you several times less than coverings made of natural wood or tiles. At the same time, in terms of its performance characteristics, linoleum is only slightly inferior to its more expensive analogues.
- Long service life. Linoleum is a very durable material. The average shelf life of such floor coverings is at least ten years. Moreover, some manufacturers claim that their products will retain their original appearance even after two decades of use. If we compare this parameter with the cost of the material and its qualities, then even the most skeptical buyers will have no doubt about the benefits of such a purchase.
- Variety of colors. In the catalogs of modern stores you will find a huge selection of linoleum for every taste. This can be an effective and fairly high-quality imitation of more expensive coating options: tiles, natural stone, parquet, etc. Or any other coating design. Color solutions and styles are limited only by your imagination.
- Easy installation. To install household linoleum, you do not need any special knowledge, skills or special tools. You can easily cope with this task yourself, without resorting to outside help. In this case, the installation process will not take you much time. And you will immediately be able to walk on the new floor.
- Moisture resistant. Thanks to this property, linoleum can be laid in the bathroom and kitchen without fear. After all, it is in such rooms that there is the most moisture and pollution. Also, the floor covering can be washed using a large amount of water, without compromising the quality characteristics of the material. Moreover, even if the apartment is flooded, the linoleum covering will not be damaged and you will not have to change it.
- Easy to care for. To get rid of dirt and dust accumulated on the floor surface, simply wipe the surface with a soft cloth. You don't have to spend too much time and effort on caring for the material. Which will make any housewife very happy.
Which linoleum is better?
As you can see, each type of linoleum has certain pros and cons. Therefore, the final choice of one option or another depends on your preferences and the characteristics of the room for which the flooring is intended.
First, you should consider the degree of traffic in the room. The more intense the expected load, the stronger and thicker the material should be. The specifics of the space should also be taken into account.
For example, for the kitchen, bathroom and corridor, the most optimal option would be the coating models that are most resistant to moisture, deformation and abrasion.
Hypoallergenic and healthy types of linoleum should be placed in the child’s room, such as marmoleum. Almost all types of linoleum are suitable for the living room. Therefore, the final choice will depend on the external characteristics of the coating.
How to choose?
Taking into account the above information, you can already choose high-quality linoleum that will definitely satisfy you with its characteristics. However, there are a few more tips to help you make a smart purchase.
So, since the material will be laid on a wooden floor, you should remember some of its features. For example, the best option for a wooden surface would be synthetic linoleum, not natural.
This is due to the fact that polyvinyl chloride does not rot and has a special foam backing, which consists of several layers. This means that this type of linoleum has low thermal conductivity, which will allow you to retain heat in your country house, private house, apartment or Khrushchev building.
In addition, PVC flooring will provide excellent sound insulation. And then you will not need additional insulation.
We talked in detail about the features and characteristics of linoleum. Now is the time to figure out how to properly lay such material on a wooden floor.
Preparation
The better the preparation of the wooden base, the better the final result of the work. First, carefully inspect the floor. Under no circumstances should it have deep cracks, chips, mold or mildew. All boards must be whole and even. Otherwise, you will have to replace them or level them using a plane or other suitable tools.
Also be sure to check the security of each individual board. The elements should not move; the entire structure of the wooden floor must be securely fastened. An uneven or faulty old floor can cause you a lot of inconvenience when installing your flooring.
If this is necessary, it is better to prepare the surface with putty. It won’t take much time to putty well, but the result will definitely please you. By the way, if you are going to lay linoleum on a painted floor, be sure to completely remove the old paint from the boards before you begin installation.
After you are finally convinced of the reliability of the wooden floor and have prepared the surface, you should take care to ensure that the surface becomes more even. To do this, you need to place sheets of fiberboard or plywood on top of the boards.
This is necessary in order to avoid deformation of the linoleum during operation. After all, bare wooden boards tend to sag under load. While sheets of plywood or fiberboard placed on top will easily eliminate this drawback. This means that the flooring will retain its original appearance much longer.
So, surface preparation is complete. Now it's time to start preparing the linoleum. Before installing linoleum, it is best to first spread the material on the floor. This is necessary so that the linoleum straightens after storage and accepts the room temperature. Without such a procedure, you should not start laying to avoid unwanted defects.
Carefully ensure that there are no bends or creases left on the linoleum sheet.
How to put it correctly?
If you want to properly lay linoleum with your own hands, you should carefully follow all the rules of installation technology. First thing, decide on the direction of the drawing. Make sure that the joints are as inconspicuous as possible. We also recommend that you ensure that the temperature in the room during installation is stable. This way you will avoid deformation of the material.
Next, you need to decide how you will attach the material to the wooden floor. There are three most common options for installing linoleum yourself: without gluing and with gluing:
- What can I use to glue it? To glue linoleum to the floor, special glue or double-sided tape is most often used. The material is secured both at the joints and over the entire surface. The last installation option is the most durable. Moreover, sometimes, in order to secure the material, some decide to nail it to the floor. In this case, it is best to attach the material to nails with decorative heads so that the coating in the house looks as neat as possible.
- Do I need to glue it? The answer to such a question can only be obtained by yourself, having carefully assessed all the conditions. If you want to lay the floor “forever” and do not intend to change the floor material in the future, then it is best to use glue when laying it. This is especially true for spacious rooms. In small rooms it is quite acceptable to lay linoleum without glue or tape. They can only be used when you still need to attach joints or make a hatch.
Secrets and subtleties
As you can see, laying linoleum is not at all difficult. The main thing is not to forget about the basic rules. Let us repeat once again that the main thing is preparation. If you do not seal the cracks, then in the future the flooring will stretch and lose its visual appeal.
Laying linoleum on a wooden floor is one of the construction tasks that can be done by people without special training, and in order to lay the material correctly, it is enough to familiarize yourself with all the nuances and rules for performing this work. What does a person who decides to replace an old wooden floor with a new beautiful coating need to know? First you need to learn as much as possible about such a practical covering as linoleum, and then how best to lay it.
There are a large number of types of linoleum
Linoleum: advantages, types, classification
Linoleum is made mainly from natural raw materials: tree resin, jute fabric, linseed oil, cork flour, limestone powder. This flooring is almost universal - it is optimal for apartments, residential buildings, offices and even industrial premises. The material is ideal for flooring in high-traffic areas, such as the kitchen, corridor, living room.
The popularity of linoleum is due to its many advantages:
- strength;
- waterproof;
- wear resistance;
- elasticity;
- ease of installation and maintenance;
- a wide range of;
- acceptable price.
Depending on the raw materials from which it is made, linoleum is divided into the following types:
- Polyvinyl chloride, made from polymer material. Available on various bases: foam, heat-insulating, fabric, and also without base.
- Alkyd linoleum. It contains alkyd resins, mineral fillers and pigments. It is made from both synthetic and natural bases. Available in single-color, multi-color, and with a pattern. It is characterized by high heat and sound insulation properties, resistant to abrasion, but quite fragile, prone to the formation of breaks and cracks.
- Rubber linoleum or relin. Product thickness 3 mm. Its bottom layer is made of a mixture of bitumen with crushed recycled rubber, and the top layer of coating is made of colored rubber. Characterized by increased water resistance and elasticity. It is mainly used in industrial and production premises.
- Colloxy linoleum is usually a baseless coating that contains nitrocellulose. The material is characterized by moisture resistance, elasticity, fire safety, and has a peculiar shine.
In accordance with the linoleum manufacturing technology, the pattern applied to the base is covered with a protective layer, the thickness of which determines its wear resistance and, of course, cost.
Linoleum has a separate classification based on wear resistance. It is divided into:
- domestic;
- semi-commercial;
- commercial.
Domestic linoleum has fairly low wear resistance; it is usually used in residential premises.
semi-commercial linoleum is characterized by average wear resistance, therefore it is recommended as a floor covering in rooms and offices with average traffic.
Commercial linoleum has very high wear resistance. This characteristic determines its use in high-traffic areas.
The use of linoleum according to the classification is advisory in nature. However, selecting the flooring in accordance with the purpose of the room and its degree of load is the key to its successful operation and long-term use. For installation on a wooden floor, it is better to choose linoleum with high sound and heat insulation properties. Having decided on the choice of linoleum, we proceed to its flooring.
Step-by-step instructions for laying linoleum
Linoleum must be laid only on a perfectly flat surface. Why? The fact is that if there are irregularities and flaws on the surface of the base, they will appear on the linoleum. In other words, the better the floor is prepared, the more beautiful the new coating will look and the longer its service life will be.
Preparing a wooden surface (laying plywood)
A plank floor becomes deformed and damaged during use, so experts recommend laying slabs of fiberboard, chipboard or plywood when preparing floors for linoleum. If the quality of the wooden floor is not bad, the thickness of the slabs can be 5-8 mm. If there are large differences, their thickness should be at least 15 mm. Next, we carry out the work of preparing the floor in the following sequence:
- We remove the old paint from the painted floor using a spatula, pre-heating it with a hair dryer.
- Using a hammer and bit, hammer the nails into the boards to a depth of 6-7 mm. We nail additional boards that squeak when walking to the joists.
- We level the surface using a plane (manual or electric) or a parquet sander.
- If you decide to lay linoleum on an old base, you need to vacuum it, wash it thoroughly and dry it.
- If you decide to lay plywood, you will need PVA glue or glue for laying parquet, to which filler is added to increase viscosity. Sheets of plywood are glued with an offset of half a sheet.
- Next, we additionally attach the glued plywood to the floor with nails. We fill the gaps between the sheets of plywood with the same mastic that was used to glue the plywood to the floor. We sand the joints.
- We saturate the dried plywood sheets with hot drying oil.
The surface is ready for laying linoleum. The work is painstaking, but it will pay off in the future with beauty and durability.
To lay linoleum on a wooden floor, you must first leave it in this room for a couple of days so that it can stand and straighten at room temperature. Its surface should be perfectly flat, without a single bend or fold. If you notice the presence of any bend, it should be straightened by pressing the linoleum with boards, books, and other objects.
Linoleum should stand and straighten for a couple of days indoors
If you find too many creases or folds in the material, it is better to replace it, since during installation it will create additional difficulties, and after installation the floor will be uneven and, accordingly, impractical.
Important! Laying linoleum on a wooden floor should be carried out at a room temperature of at least 16ºC and humidity within 40-60%.
We calculate the amount of material needed:
- measure the length and width of the room and add 10 cm;
— take into account protrusions (the space under the door, window, closet);
— if there is a pattern, we take into account the reserve for 1 pattern repeat in both directions.
Important! If linoleum is cut incorrectly, leaving allowances, it may later happen that it will form waves.
Before laying, choose the correct direction of the linoleum to hide the seams. Marble and plain linoleum must be placed along the line of light. If there are drawings, they are placed in the longitudinal direction so that they match. If linoleum is laid on a wooden floor, then the joints are made in the middle of the board.
We prepare the tools necessary for installation:
- well-sharpened knife;
- steel notched spatula;
- wooden spatula;
- short and long rulers;
- glue, composition for welding seams
- double-sided adhesive tape.
Linoleum flooring methods
No gluing . This method is the fastest, but it is suitable for low-traffic areas of no more than 12 m2. With this type of flooring, the coating wears out faster and there is a high probability of wave formation.
Laying linoleum using a glueless method
Gluing with double-sided tape . This method will protect the linoleum from rapid wear. And if the need arises, it can be peeled off without difficulty, although traces of the tape may remain on the floor of the room.
Gluing linoleum with double-sided tape
Bonding with glue . This method does not have the disadvantages of the first two. If the area of the room exceeds 20 m2, then this is the only acceptable method. In this case, the service life of linoleum increases significantly. But laying the coating in this way is a rather labor-intensive process.
Laying linoleum with glue
The process of laying linoleum
We spread the linoleum on the floor, not forgetting to leave a margin on the baseboards (5-10 cm).
We smooth the coating with our hands from the middle to the walls, and so that it fits better to the walls, we make small cuts in the corners.
If we lay linoleum without gluing, cut off the excess along the baseboard with a sharp knife, then secure it in the doorways with metal slats.
If we glue it with double-sided tape, then first stick the tape around the entire perimeter of the room without removing the protective layer. Unroll the roll and fold one half over the other. Now remove the protective paper, spread the linoleum, smooth it with your hands from the center to the walls.
We do the same with the other half. Cut off the excess along the baseboard. We secure it in the doorways with sill strips.
If we are installing with glue, then after bending one half of the linoleum, apply the glue to the floor and spread it with a roller or notched trowel. Leave for 20 minutes, then unbend the folded part of the covering and carefully smooth it out with your hands.
We perform the same operations with the other half. We cut off the excess linoleum, press the edges against the walls with a plinth, and install slats-thresholds in the doorway.
The edges of the linoleum are pressed with a plinth, metal slats are placed at the doorways
If, for example, for some reason it is necessary to lay not one strip of linoleum (the room is large, or it was not possible to find linoleum of the required width in the store), but several, then they will have to be joined. This is done as follows:
- We lay the strips of covering so that they overlap each other by approximately 10 cm.
- We bend one strip, apply glue to it and glue it to the floor. We do the same with the other strip.
- Using a sharp knife, cut off both layers of linoleum at the overlap, remove the trimmings and carefully glue both edges so that the resulting joint is as inconspicuous as possible.
- After the glue has dried, we glue the joints using a special liquid for cold welding of seams. First apply adhesive tape to the seam. After a few hours, when the seam begins to weld, the tape must be removed.
After gluing the linoleum, press it tightly with a roller or a special roller. Until the coating is completely dry, do not step or walk on it.
Do not walk on glued linoleum until it is completely dry
Having familiarized yourself with the intricacies of choosing linoleum and the process of laying it on a wooden floor, there is no doubt that it will not be difficult for you to do it yourself. You can safely get to work. And in a dozen or two years, when you want to update your floor, it will not be difficult to change the coating to another if the base has been properly prepared.
In order for the coating to serve you faithfully for many years and to be safe to use, you must know something about it. So I'll torture you a little with some much-needed theory.
Types of linoleum by material of manufacture
- Natural linoleum, after its most famous brand, it is often called “marmoleum”. It is made only from natural raw materials: linseed oil, ground lime, natural pigments, wood flour, etc. The basis of the coating is jute sackcloth. The most environmentally friendly material, has antibacterial, hypoallergenic and antistatic properties.
Marmoleum is quite expensive, but the high price is justified by its environmental characteristics.
This flooring is optimal for children's rooms and healthcare facilities.
- Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) covering. It is produced on a fabric, foamed polymer, sound- and heat-insulating felt base or without it. Most often it has a top protective layer of polymer film. This material is now the most widespread.
- Glypthal material Made from fabric-based alkyd resin. Has high heat and noise insulation characteristics.
- Coloxyl analogue made using a baseless method from nitrocellulose. The material is resistant to moisture and has excellent elasticity, but is not fireproof enough.
- Rubber linoleum, after its most famous brand, is often called “Relin”. The front layer of the coating consists of synthetic rubber, colored with pigments. The basis of the material is rubber processing products bound with bitumen. The coating has good moisture resistance and elasticity.
Division of coating according to wear resistance
According to the degree of wear resistance, the material is divided into the following types:
- Household linoleum. It is used in living rooms and rooms with low traffic, tk. has low wear resistance.
- Semi-commercial analogue has good wear resistance and is intended for medium-traffic areas.
- Commercial coverage has the highest wear resistance and is intended for places with a high degree of traffic.
About the advantages and disadvantages of the material
I present the pros and cons of linoleum as I understand them myself.
First about the benefits:
- The material has good moisture resistance, good elasticity, and you can choose a variety with high wear resistance.
- The coating is easy to care for.
- Wide selection of patterns, colors, roll sizes and their performance characteristics.
- Relatively low cost.
- I won’t be original - it’s really not difficult to do on your own.
Disadvantages of linoleum:
- It is highly undesirable to lay the coating near sources of open fire.
- The material is afraid of direct rays of the sun and exposure to low temperatures.
- Does not tolerate the effects of aggressive chemicals.
I want to warn you about something that biased specialists and sales consultants often keep silent about.
The coating, especially not of very good quality, tends to dry out or shrink over time.
It is because of this that the joints of the panels can open up or cracks may appear on them.
Coating care
The photo shows a linoleum care product.
- I strongly advise you to wash linoleum only with special mild cleaning compounds: Mr. Muscle, Wa-Lin, Mr. Proper, Glorix, Econa-Konzentrat, Mellerud, Forbo-891 and 888.
- The coating does not tolerate active chemical agents. From their influence it becomes dull and cracks.
- To prevent the floor covering from being torn or scratched, put soft caps on the legs of household equipment and furniture.
- I strongly advise you to rub the coating with a special polish or mastic once every 6 months. They return the finish to its original gloss and appearance, give it antistatic qualities and increase its service life.
- InterChem-301, 305 and 306 products give linoleum a deep glossy shine.
- The composition of InterChem-302 makes the coating semi-matte.
- InterChem-303 will give the cladding a matte finish and a muted satin shine.
Point 2: proper preparation of the base
Linoleum is a thin and elastic material. Therefore, any, even small, unevenness will spoil the appearance of the coating and may shorten its service life.
The base on which you will lay linoleum with your own hands must, in any case, be smooth and strong enough.
Preparing a concrete base for linoleum
- Preparing the concrete base includes creating a uniform, flat surface without traces of old cladding, damage or cracks.
- I warn you right away: height differences on the floor should not be more than 1 mm for every meter of its surface, the base should not have potholes or protrusions larger than 2 mm. If these conditions are violated, level the floor using a screed.
- Cover all cracks, crevices, and joints between slabs with epoxy, putty or cement-sand mortar with the addition of drying oil.
I can’t help but say this. A concrete base is not particularly suitable for laying ordinary linoleum.
The floors are cold.
To avoid this problem, select a coating with a backing made of heat-insulating material.
But for living rooms, this measure is often not enough.
Then I advise you to first cover the concrete floors with chipboard or plywood, and only then cover them with linoleum:
- Before laying the sheets, lay waterproofing on the concrete. Use polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 200 microns.
- Spread the panels overlapping each other (15 cm) and place them on the walls by 5 cm. Insulate the joints with tape.
- You can lay polyethylene foam on top of the waterproofing as a soundproofing layer.
- Lay the sheets with small expansion joints between each other (3-4 mm).
How to prepare a wooden base
Old wooden floors should be restored as necessary:
- Remove paint, especially if it has been applied several times over many repairs, using a spatula and a hair dryer.
- Level all the joints between the floorboards and the entire surface of the base using a scraper or sander in order to eliminate all irregularities and differences larger than 1 mm.
Before laying linoleum on an uneven floor, you can continue preparing it in two ways. Namely: putting putty on the joints between boards or laying chipboard or plywood. - The first method is more difficult and time-consuming. It is advisable when the flooring is new and there is no need for special sealing of the seams, or when the old floorboards are in excellent condition (not deformed or creaky).
- I think the second method is better. As a result, you will get a more homogeneous and uniform base, which is more suitable for linoleum.
I want to warn you that in the latter case there is no need to apply waterproofing.
Wood must be ventilated during operation or have the ability to remove excess moisture.
Waterproofing will stop these conditions, which will contribute to the formation of mold and rot.
Make sure that after preparing the base there are no creaking boards left. For this purpose, additionally screw the floorboards to the joists.
Before laying the linoleum on the fiberboard, glue a polyethylene foam damper tape along the perimeter of the walls of the room to level the effects of seasonal expansion and contraction of the coating. Also, leave 3 mm seams between the sheets.
Point 3: acquisition and preparation of coating
Before purchasing material, accurately calculate the required quantity. I warn you that the standard width of the rolls can be from 1 to 5 m, in 0.5 m increments.
What you need to know about calculating linoleum
Ideal when the coverage is wide enough to cover the width of the room. Then there is no need to join the panels. Such solidity gives the cladding greater reliability, simplifies its installation, and improves the appearance.
Measure all distances in the room to the maximum. In this case, consider the width of the room as the maximum gap between the long walls and take into account all the recesses along their entire length.
Let me give you an example. On the first wall there is a niche for mounting a heating battery, on the second wall there is a recess near the door, which is formed by a column and an adjacent wall. Here the desired width should be equal to the gap between the walls and plus the depth of both niches. In addition, add a minimum margin of 5 cm.
The reserve must be added both along the length and width of the panel.
This is due to the potential unevenness of the walls.
Between them there is often a run-up from different ends, sometimes several centimeters.
It is better to trim off excess material than to deliver thin strips later.
By the way, they can quickly move away from the base.
When the room is too large and it is not possible to lay linoleum with one panel, select the width of the roll so that the joint of the strips passes through the middle of the room. If the material has a joined pattern, then the length of at least one of the cuts should have a margin equal to the size of the pattern, so that you can create a complete image on the seam.
Preparing the finish
- When you buy linoleum, place the rolls upright in the room where the material will be laid and leave for one day. This is necessary for the coating to adapt to room temperature.
During the warm season, the material may shrink somewhat and change size during adaptation.
This is one of the reasons why it must be purchased with a reserve.
In the winter season, during the day, the material acquires the necessary elasticity lost due to low temperatures.
- Next, lay the cover on the floor and gently straighten, straightening the folds. This procedure is necessary in order for the material to level out. This will take about two days.
- The better the coating straightens, the denser it will lie on the base. I strongly advise you not to speed up this process in any way. This can lead to deformations and swelling of the coating.
Cutting the material
You can cut the material with a construction knife or large sharp scissors and a metal ruler:
- Position the panel on the base so that the pattern runs parallel to the walls and does not move in any direction. You can use a tape measure for this or determine it visually, with a good eye. Personally, I prefer to trust the visual perception with an uneven gap between the walls, rather than trying to level the pattern along one wall.
- Next, trim off any excess fabric. Start with large unnecessary scraps. Do not cut the material for finishing right away. Cut it off with a margin of a couple of centimeters.
I want to tell you a little secret of successful work.
Fold the panel along all the bends and corners and place it in the corner.
Mark on its reverse side the area where the material contacts the wall.
Next, make a cut from the edge to this point.
This way, you can lay the panel more tightly overlapping the walls.
- Now you can make finishing cuts. At the same time, do not forget about the deformation gap between the material and the wall.
If you need to trim the cover in the presence of several panels, my instruction will be as follows:
- Lay the first canvas and fix its edge closest to the middle of the room with double-sided tape.
- Next, cut the linoleum along the wall, leaving a margin.
- Then attach the second canvas and match the pattern. Aligning the pattern, fix this cut with tape and cut along the wall with a margin.
- Then cut off the stock and form the perimeter of the coating, taking into account the expansion joints.
Point 4: features of laying linoleum
You can fix the coating to the base using several methods. To make it easier for you to assimilate the information, I have compiled it into a table.
| Installation method | Optimal application | Advantages | Minuses |
| Free flooring, fixed only by skirting boards around the perimeter of the room | The method is suitable for rooms with an area of no more than 12 m² or rooms with little traffic | Fast installation | Risk of rapid wear and wave formation on the surface |
| Gluing with double-sided tape | The method is suitable for rooms with average traffic | Fast installation | There is a danger of waves appearing on the coating; the tape may leave traces after the coating peels off |
| Fixation with glue for quick installation and the ability to remove panels | Quick installation and easy dismantling of the coating, increasing the service life of the finish | ||
| Fixation with professional glue | The option is optimal for rooms with an area of more than 20 m² and rooms with high traffic | Highly durable fixation for long-term use, increases the service life of the finish | The coating is very difficult to remove |
Types of linoleum adhesive
Successful installation of linoleum largely depends on the correct choice of glue. Therefore, I will tell you in more detail about its varieties.
All produced special adhesives for linoleum are divided into two types: dispersion and reaction compositions:
- Dispersion materials are produced on the basis of water. They contain cellulose-glycolic acid or acrylic and special additives (latex, chalk). They have a slight odor, are non-toxic, and are therefore safe for use in living rooms.
- Reaction analogues are two-component and consist of epoxy resins and polyurethane polymer. As a result, the reaction when mixing them creates a sticky effect. Bonding a coating with such a fixative is often called “cold welding.”
Dispersion adhesives are divided into three types.
- Bustilate is a universal material, the components of which are latex, chalk, and carboxymethylcellulose. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that this composition is optimal for gluing panels on a fleecy (for example, felt) basis.
- The basis of acrylate analogs is thermoplastic resins. The composition has a high degree of viscosity. It is optimal for installing coatings without a base, as well as on a base made of jute, fiber, or double synthetics in rooms with medium and high traffic. Has increased adhesion to highly absorbent subfloors.
- Gumilax consists of a mixture of rubber and latex. The glue is optimal for natural linoleum. It is also suitable for artificial coverings on a felt or fabric basis.
The main disadvantage of dispersion compositions is the loss of quality at high humidity and low temperature.
After freezing, the material will no longer restore its properties - it will lose elasticity and begin to crumble.
Exposure to high humidity causes linoleum to peel off.
Now, regarding reaction adhesives. They have excellent moisture resistance, plasticity, and prevent the coating from shrinking, because they contain no water. Such compositions are recommended for installation of semi-commercial and commercial linoleum in rooms with high traffic.
The disadvantages of reaction adhesives are below.
- Fire and explosion hazard.
- A sharp, distinct chemical smell.
- It is not advisable to use the material in living rooms.
I will tell you three most important criteria for choosing linoleum glue.
- If the base of the floor absorbs moisture well (concrete, cement screed, wooden floors), then a water-dispersive composition would be the best choice. If you are going to use marble, tiles or other non-absorbent substrate, use a reaction analogue.
- In small public and residential premises, the covering in most cases is laid with one panel and glued “in one piece”. A dispersion composition that does not contain solvents is better suited for this.
- In large retail, office, and industrial premises, it is best to lay linoleum with local fixation (in a checkerboard pattern) with two-component glue and welding the joints using hot or cold welding.
- Choose glue also based on the type of linoleum and its technical properties. To do this, carefully read the manufacturers' instructions on the packaging of the composition.
I, in turn, have compiled a table for you in which I have summarized the most popular brands of glue.
| Glue brand | Variety in composition | Average cost per kilogram in rubles | Consumption per square meter in kilograms | Recommended use |
| PVA "Stroitelny" | acrylate | 45 | 0.5-0.7 | for felt-based panels |
| Bustilat "Universal" | boostilate | 50 | 0.08-0.26 | for felt-based material |
| Polynomial No. 101 | acrylate | 80 | 0.3−0.4 | for household linoleum without a base and on a foam base |
| Homakoll-248 | acrylate | 120 | 0.25-0.3 | for commercial, semi-commercial and household PVC linoleum on a pile, fabric or foam base |
| Homakoll-208 | acrylate | 170 | 0.3-0.5 | for commercial type linoleum |
| Forbo-425 "Euroflex Standard" |
It does not lose its position and remains one of the most popular on the list.
This is explained by both the reasonable price and the high level of practicality of the material, its wear resistance, moisture resistance, environmental friendliness, minimal maintenance and a large selection of stylish designs.
You can also use a self-leveling mixture to level a wooden floor; it is optimal when differences of the order of 2 cm.
Before applying such a mixture, you need to seal all gaps and cracks with putty. The dry wooden floor is impregnated with a primer, the walls at floor level are covered with insulating material, and a wooden strip is installed in the doorway, which will limit the future floor. It is installed on a wooden surface, followed by the process of pouring the floor, the mixture is evenly distributed with a rubber mop or a spiked roller. After everything has dried, laying linoleum on the wooden floor can begin.
Preparing linoleum for installation
E 
If the floor is ready for linoleum flooring, the material itself should be prepared.
The roll should be spread out and waited until it is completely straightened. More comfortable conditions for this would be a temperature of 16 degrees and a humidity of about 40-70%. When all the folds have straightened out and the kinks have disappeared, the material is ready.
If there are still folds in some places, you can try to straighten them by placing something heavy on top.
But if you can’t remove them, it’s better to exchange such a roll for another, otherwise such defects will remain on the floor even after installation, and this will not make the room more beautiful.
Rules and methods for laying linoleum on a wooden floor
Correct installation of linoleum on a wooden floor requires that all work be carried out as carefully as possible; all defects that arise must be eliminated immediately, because over time this will be more problematic.
Bubbles can be removed by piercing them with an awl; glue should be injected into the resulting void using a syringe, and then the area should be firmly pressed to the floor with something heavy.
If the linoleum has come unstuck - and this happens if moisture has penetrated under it - the unstuck part needs to be peeled back, cleaned and dried, then pasted again in the same way as during the initial installation, and then secured with a weight for several days.
It is better to take the size of linoleum according to the maximum length and width of the walls, not forgetting about doorways, niches, etc., for this it is better to take a 5cm margin.
Laying linoleum on a wooden floor in a way without gluing.
Optimal for rooms no larger than 14 m2.
Stages of work: spread the linoleum, level it, trim off the excess, but leave additional gaps near the wall of about 1.5 cm so that the linoleum has the opportunity to stretch a little at room temperature (if this is not provided, then there is a high probability that the linoleum will swell along the walls) and at the end, fix the linoleum with skirting boards.
The advantage of this method is that the coating secured in this way can be easily removed.
If the area of the room is more than 22 m2, the technology of laying linoleum on a wooden floor using the gluing method should be used
to the wooden floor with special glue. You will also need masking tape, a ruler, silicone glue, a spatula, a paint knife, baseboards, screws, a screwdriver and a pencil.
Stages of laying linoleum
Laying linoleum consists of the following stages of work: linoleum of a suitable size is laid out in the room, the excess is cut off, there should be some reserves left on the sides, then the linoleum is lifted upward with the base, the floor under this part is covered with glue using a wide spatula. You need to carefully read the instructions for using the glue on the packaging and follow all the mentioned nuances.
Then linoleum is laid on the glue; it must be smoothed out all the time to prevent the formation of bubbles or creases, it is better to do this. Where joints occur, masking tape and silicone glue should be used. Masking tape must be removed when the joints are fixed.
When the glue has dried throughout the room, you need to install it, the choice of which is not important and depends only on the wishes of the home owner and design preferences.
The only important point– you shouldn’t attach the plinth directly to the linoleum, since during the shrinkage process the plinth may move away from it, and it won’t turn out very nicely.
If you need to lay several strips of linoleum, then it is also better to use the gluing method, and there are some nuances: the joints of the linoleum need to be glued, but it is better to use the cold welding method. When masking tape is glued along the seam, the cold welding glue goes along the joint and penetrates into the seam to a depth of 3 mm, the excess glue should evaporate on its own, it does not need to be removed. After the glue has dried, the masking tape is removed. The overlap of the linoleum strips should be at least 10 cm, remember the need to match the pattern.
Despite the caustic and biased remarks of those who consider linoleum to be a relic of the Soviet Union, this material, due to its characteristics, is still widely used today. Practicality, low cost and a number of other advantages persuade thrifty owners in favor of linoleum, despite the huge selection of newfangled building materials. If we put aside bias, linoleum coating can be used on any base, including on a wooden floor.
Advantages and disadvantages of linoleum covering on a wooden floor
Wood itself is one of the most beautiful and reliable types of flooring. However, in a number of cases, home craftsmen come to the conclusion that it has served its purpose. One option to avoid a complete replacement of the coating is to use linoleum.
This is interesting: the name “linoleum” originally referred only to a material made entirely from natural raw materials, which included jute fabric, wood flour and resin, flax oil and limestone powder. When plastic-based artificial floor coverings began to come into use, this name began to be used in relation to them.
The use of linoleum coating in combination with a wooden floor provides a number of advantages that allow you not only to update the appearance of the room, but also to significantly improve comfort:
- A wooden floor covered with linoleum has a significant increase in thermal conductivity; this material also has good moisture-insulating characteristics.
- Linoleum coating will save money on repairs; at a low cost, the service life of such a floor is from 30 to 50 years, while linoleum is not susceptible to rotting.
- The floors covered with linoleum are not noisy and cannot be slipped on.
- It is worth noting such a positive quality as a huge selection of colors, allowing you to fit the flooring into the overall design of the room.
- To cover a wooden floor with linoleum, you do not need to have any special skills; a home craftsman can do the entire amount of work independently and alone.
Before choosing linoleum flooring, it is worth considering its negative sides. These include low resistance to loads. If, for example, you put furniture on linoleum, dents will remain on the floor over time. Cheap varieties of this material are sensitive to both high and low temperatures. Exposure to cold can cause linoleum to crack, and high temperatures can deform it.
Criterias of choice
Currently, several types of linoleum coating are being sold on the market, differing both in material and in the method of combining layers.
- Rubber-based linoleum should not be chosen to cover a wooden floor. This material is absolutely not breathable, and under its surface the tree will quickly rot.
- Jute-based natural linoleum can only be recommended to zealous lovers of environmentally friendly materials. On a wooden floor, it will not last long, as this material is fragile and inelastic. But its price is quite high.
- Colloxyl linoleum made from nitrocellulose, which is mats without any underlying base, is much better suited for covering a wooden floor. This material combines high temperature resistance, wear resistance and flexibility with environmental friendliness. You can even lay it on a wooden floor with slight unevenness.
- Alkyd linoleum contains more artificial components, is made from alkyd resins and a mixture of minerals. The material is quite brittle, so it is recommended to put it only on a perfectly leveled base. Possessing high wear resistance, it will last for a very long time. It is worth noting its high thermal insulation properties.
- If you put the optimal ratio of price and practicality in the first place, polyvinyl chloride linoleum will take the lead. Usually it is produced in multilayer, which ensures a long service life, reliable heat retention and good sound insulation. When using it, special attention should be paid to ensuring the ventilation of the wooden floor, since PVC linoleum does not allow moisture to pass through and the floor under it can rot quite quickly. It is produced using a fabric, foam, heat and sound insulating base.
Photo gallery: types of linoleum
Calculation of the required amount of material
Having decided on the characteristics of the material, it is necessary to calculate the required amount of coating. Linoleum by modern manufacturers is produced in widths from one and a half to five meters in increments of 0.5 m. If the size of the room allows, you should choose linoleum that will cover the floor with one sheet, without joints. In this case, you do not have to combine the pattern on adjacent strips, that is, material savings will be achieved. In addition, the absence of unnecessary joints will provide the coating with an ideal appearance.
Measurements in length and width should be made between opposite walls in several places, taking the largest distance for further calculations. When measuring, the dimensions of technological niches should be taken into account, while the depth of all recesses is added to the total width of the room. To the results obtained, add 5 cm of overlap for each wall. For example, if the room dimensions are 8 m long and 6 m wide. Taking into account the overlap, the required coverage area will be 8.1 x 6.1 = 49.41 sq.m. It should be rounded up. If material savings are in the foreground, the dimensions of the technological niches can be ignored, in which case they will be covered with separate pieces of material, and the joints can be welded or masked with decorative thresholds.
Having calculated the total area of the required material, you should convert square meters into linear meters, which will allow you to determine the required number of rolls. The footage of linoleum is calculated as follows:
- To determine the number of strips required for covering, the width of the room is divided by the width of the selected linoleum. Most likely, the value will be inaccurate; it should be rounded up. For example, with a room width of 6 m and a roll width of 4 m, you will need 6/4 = 1.5 strips, that is, rounding up, 2 strips of material.
- After this, the size of the length of the room is multiplied by the required number of stripes, the result in this case is rounded up.
- An overlap of 5 cm is added to the result obtained.
When calculating, the need to join the pattern should be taken into account. The pattern on linoleum has a step length similar to, for example, repeat on wallpaper. For correct joining, an amount of material equal to the step length of the pattern should be added to the length of each canvas, including this data in the final calculation.
Tools and materials
For laying linoleum, you will need the simplest tools. Much more expensive is the preliminary preparation of a wooden floor.
For preparatory work, you may need:
- If sanding work will be carried out, you will need a sanding machine, a plane or a hand sander.
- To seal the joints, spatulas and putty will be required.
- A hammer, screwdriver, nails and screws will be needed to strengthen floorboards, attach baseboards and lay flooring.
- The material of the flooring itself may also be required - sheets of plywood or chipboard.
For work, in fact, on laying linoleum, a different set is needed:
- A sharp construction or short shoe knife.
- A flat rail or ruler with a length of 1 to 3 m.
- The spatula is ordinary and with cloves, if the linoleum will be planted on glue.
- Special mastic or glue for laying linoleum.
- Cold welding or a heat gun with a special nozzle for hot welding.
Preliminary work on preparing the foundation
When starting work, you should assess the condition of the wooden floor and prepare its surface for leveling. To do this, you should vigorously walk and jump over the entire surface, identifying weak and wobbly floorboards.
It is advisable to lift 2-3 boards and inspect them from the reverse side. The fact that the wood is rotten may be indicated by a change in color or the presence of mold. If the floor is “walking”, it is worth checking the condition of the joists. If necessary, place bricks or bars under the logs. It is better to replace rotten boards, otherwise this process will spread to the entire surface of the floor. If you find traces of wood-boring beetles on wood, you should invest in special bioprotective preparations. All skirting boards are dismantled.
Floorboards can squeak as a result of simply rubbing against each other. To eliminate it, you can pour graphite powder or talc into the cracks. After this, you can begin leveling the floor.
Ways to level a wooden floor
To level a wooden floor before laying linoleum, several methods are used, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages:
- If the floor is level and in good condition, it can be leveled by scraping. This is the simplest and least expensive method. Before sanding, the nail heads should be sunk into the surface of the floorboards and the peeling paint should be removed. You can scrape using a special machine or manually, using a plane or scraper. Gaps between boards and recessed nail heads should be filled with putty. The disadvantage of this method is the presence of unevenness on the floor surface. To eliminate them, you will have to choose linoleum on a foam or felt basis or use a backing. Fragile and brittle types of linoleum coating are not recommended for use on such a floor.
Using a scraping machine will ensure a high-quality leveling of the floor
- The use of a self-leveling mixture solves the problem of uneven floors. You should choose mixtures specifically designed for pouring wooden floors. The mixture is diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, after which the entire floor surface is poured with it. The result is a perfectly smooth surface on which any linoleum can be laid. The disadvantages include the fact that when using the mixture, a “stone” surface is formed, deprived of all the advantages of a wooden floor. On this basis, it is also advisable to use a substrate for thermal and waterproofing.
For filling, use a mixture intended for wooden floors
- The most commonly used leveling method is using sheet material - hardboard, chipboard, plywood, furniture panels. The panels are glued to the floor using a mixture of gypsum and PVA glue, or parquet varnish. Then they are additionally fastened using a construction stapler, nails or self-tapping screws. The seams between the sheets are puttied, the surface is covered with 2-3 layers of drying oil. This method, unlike the previous one, does not allow achieving a perfectly smooth surface. However, the sheet material serves as an additional substrate for linoleum, enhancing sound and heat insulation properties.
Plywood forms an additional heat-insulating layer
Do you need a backing?
It is worth immediately noting that the most commonly used types of linoleum coating are already equipped with a base based on foamed PVC or felt, that is, these layers already serve as a base for waterproofing and thermal insulation of the floor surface. However, in a number of cases the use of a substrate is justified:
- Leveling the floor. If the base for the linoleum covering is not ideal, the underlay will help smooth out unevenness and avoid deformation and breakouts of the linoleum. This solution will increase the cost, but will extend the life of the floor.
- The use of baseless linoleum implies the need to lay a backing underneath it to enhance moisture insulation and reduce thermal conductivity.
- Cold floor. If a screed was made from a self-leveling mixture on a wooden floor, it is worth thinking about a backing that allows you to retain heat.
In all other cases, using a substrate for linoleum covering will only be an unnecessary waste of effort and money.
Currently, manufacturers offer a large selection of substrates, but not every one is suitable for use under linoleum covering.
- The most common isolon substrate, made from polyethylene foam. Some craftsmen use it when laying linoleum, but a number of its properties negatively affect further use. This material is easily deformed and does not restore its shape well, so a floor with such a substrate will soon lose its attractive appearance and go in “waves.” In addition, the use of isolon can lead to a greenhouse effect. It does not allow water vapor to pass through, which causes accelerated rotting of the wooden floor.
Using isolite can shorten the service life of linoleum
- Cork backing is much better suited for linoleum. Its positive property is the ability to hide small irregularities; it is a good sound and heat insulator. However, there are also negative aspects - such a coating is noticeably springy, which entails accelerated wear of the linoleum. In addition, furniture installed on such a covering will “walk”. The cost of such material is quite high, so the price of the substrate may exceed the price of linoleum.
Cork has a high resilience
- Under linoleum covering it is best to use a rigid backing made from a mixture of wool, jute and flax. This environmentally friendly, high-density material is an excellent heat insulator and smoothes out unevenness of the base well. The material is treated with fire retardants and antifungal agents, which eliminates the risk of mold.
Lining, jute and wool blend is quite stiff and durable
Do-it-yourself linoleum laying instructions
Linoleum should be laid at a favorable temperature range from 15 to 25 degrees Celsius and a humidity of 40–60%. During delivery, creases and kinks should be avoided. If delivery is made during the cold period, the linoleum should be kept indoors without unrolling the rolls for several hours. After this, the material can be unrolled and spread on the prepared surface for adaptation. Experts advise keeping linoleum in this way for about two days. After this, you can begin installation using one of the methods listed below.
Loose laying method
If the area of the room does not exceed 25 square meters, there is no need to attach the linoleum sheet to the floor. It is enough to lay it on the surface and secure it around the perimeter with plinths. The seams between the sheets are sealed using cold or hot welding. The order of work in this case is as follows:
- If the room is covered in width by one sheet of material, it is spread on the floor. The canvas with the pattern should run parallel to the walls; for accuracy, you can use a tape measure. However, if the walls in the room are uneven, it is better to determine the general direction visually rather than measure the distance from one of the walls.
In small rooms, linoleum can be laid without joints
- After this, trimming is done using a knife and ruler. First, large pieces are cut off, then small excesses are removed, taking into account an overlap of 2–3 cm to compensate for thermal expansion. In the corners on the reverse side of the canvas, a mark is made at the contact point, after which a cut is made towards the corner.
Cutting is done after the material has rested for two days.
- If a room requires two or more strips, one of them is laid and trimmed first. The second strip is laid and equal to the first. To prevent accidental movement, the first strip at the junction with the second can be attached to the floor with double-sided tape. When laying the second strip, you should align the pattern, then trim it, also securing the joint with double-sided tape. It should be noted that usually the joint is made in the center of the room, and its direction should go along the line of greatest illumination, from the windows. In this case, the seam will be least noticeable. In some cases, a pattern on the covering can look advantageous in the center of the room. Then a different technology is used - a whole strip is laid in the center, and two narrow strips of linoleum are joined to it near the walls.
When joining, double-sided tape is used to secure the panels.
- The joints between the strips are glued using cold and hot welding. Hot welding requires certain experience and special equipment - a construction hair dryer with a special nozzle and a cord made of low-melting polymer. When heated, the polymer fills the seam between the linoleum sheets, holding them together securely. Due to its simplicity and high reliability, home craftsmen often use cold welding, which is an adhesive composition. With its help, you can glue linoleum sheets in two ways. If the linoleum is not attached to the floor and the pattern allows them to partially overlap each other, two panels are trimmed at once. This results in a perfectly joined seam without gaps. In the second case, the panels are simply moved and gluing is performed. Before introducing the adhesive composition, masking tape is glued to the seam and cut along the seam. Then glue is introduced into the seam in such an amount that the composition protrudes above the surface of the seam. After drying, the masking tape is removed.
- Finally, the linoleum sheets are fixed along the walls with plinths.
Important: There are two types of cold welding currently produced. Type A is intended for gluing linoleum sheets during initial installation. Type C is used for gluing old joints and joints of considerable width.
Photo gallery: sequence of works
Landing linoleum on glue
When the floor area is large, it makes sense to fix the covering to the base. Special mastics and glues are ideal for these purposes, a wide range of which are available on any construction market. When choosing an adhesive composition, you should pay attention to its compliance with the selected type of linoleum. No backing is used when laying on glue. Cutting and trimming linoleum is done in the same way as in the case of free laying. However, the subsequent steps are different:
- Strips of linoleum laid out on the floor are carefully rolled into a roll from the far wall to the middle of the room. After this, diluted glue is applied to the floor surface using a notched trowel from the center to the walls.
The glue is applied with a spatula from the center to the walls
- The coating roll is carefully rolled out, and at the same time smoothed to eliminate air cavities. When the canvas is laid out, it should be rolled with a roller from the center to the walls to evenly distribute the adhesive mass. The second part of the coating is glued in a similar way.
Rolling is done to remove air pockets and distribute the glue evenly
- The joints between the canvases are connected by the methods of cold or hot welding described above. Along the perimeter, the linoleum is fixed with skirting boards.
Fixation with using double sided tape
As an original way of fixing a linoleum coating, the method of gluing with double-sided tape is sometimes used. In this case, the marking, cutting and trimming of the coating web is carried out by the methods described above. Then the linoleum sheet is rolled into a roll, as when planted with glue to the middle of the room. After this, the work order is as follows:
- Double-sided tape is glued to the floor surface in parallel strips perpendicular to the walls or in diagonal directions at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls in increments of 15–20 cm, resulting in a pattern in the form of squares.
Linoleum is glued with double-sided tape
- At the next stage, the rolled part of the roll is gradually rolled out from the center to the wall, while the top protective layer is removed from the adhesive tape. When rolling, roll the surface with a roller.
- The seams are also joined using hot or cold welding. At the last stage, skirting boards are attached to the walls.
Video: gluing linoleum to a floor leveled using plywood sheets
As can be seen from the above, linoleum is an indispensable material for covering a wooden floor in cases where there is a need to make a new floor yourself. At the same time, such a coating will provide a modern and attractive look at a minimum cost.