How to make site drainage with your own hands: we do drainage correctly by studying projects and types of systems. Proper installation of drainage around the house: we understand the main aspects of installation Drainage work around the house

Drainage work is intended to ensure organized drainage of water on the site, the implementation of which is planned at the design stage.

As a result, ground flows, underground inflow of groundwater, falling or melted precipitation fall into a specially equipped channel and are directed outside the courtyard of a country house.

The ring drainage of the house, working together with waterproofing and concrete pavement, can protect deep foundations, basement and basement rooms, and supply lines from flooding.

Design principles

Loamy soils do not allow water to pass through well, and it penetrates into the cavities around the building supports

To figure out how to properly make drainage around a house, one begins by studying the conditions of the location of the site and the results of its geological surveys.

You should not rely on the protective properties of waterproofing layers alone, since in the long term there are no ideal materials that will not have weak points after a large number of exposure cycles.

Factors influencing the choice of design and combination of various types of drainage systems for a private home:

• location on the ground, the possibility of the formation of storm flows from areas located higher on the slope;
• seasonal fluctuations in groundwater level (at high levels, drainage around the house is necessary, including to prevent siltation of the sand and gravel cushion and, as a consequence, increase the heaving of the base);
• soil composition (clays and loams do not allow water to pass through well, and it is directed into looser cavities near the load-bearing supports of the building; filling such spaces with clay increases heaving forces aimed at squeezing the foundation out of the ground);
• position relative to reservoirs, flood rise of water;
• average annual and maximum precipitation typical for the area;
• building density on the site, depth of adjacent foundations;
• coatings that prevent water from seeping into the soil, collecting it in streams along the surface (asphalt, concrete paths, sheds and roofs);
• Discharge from a drainage system installed in a private house must also be directed to a ring drainage system (storm drain).

The design of a house's drainage system is the creation of a calculated engineering system that takes into account the possible combination of various factors in their maximum values.

Types of drainage

Surface drainage consists of point receivers and an outlet system

You can visually imagine what a drainage system around a house is with your own hands by examining the main types of such structures, designed for specific drainage tasks.

They consist of a system of pipes (channels) for collecting water, located both on the surface and at the level of the foundation support.

1. Surface (storm) drainage of the site combines linear (trays) and point (grids) receivers of incoming water into a system.
2. Surface execution is also used in cases of diverting transit flows from adjacent territories beyond the boundaries of property.
3. Wall (foundation) closed drainage for a house is needed to drain groundwater and seeping water from the supporting structural parts of buildings and the foundations of courtyard structures.

It is equipped after completion of the main construction work on the site, before installing lawns and hard surfaces.

Such a system of perforated pipes receives water from the surrounding soil and is removed through collection wells, a storage collector, and subsequent discharge into a nearby natural reservoir or general sewer system.

Methods of drainage device can be:

1. An open type in the form of a ditch with a cross-section of 0.5×0.5 m is chosen for large areas (significant flows) in places where they do not interfere with movement. The main advantage is the simplicity and speed of work at low cost. In landscape areas, such channels drain the top layer of soil.
2. The closed-type drainage around the site is covered with plastic or metal gratings, which reduce the throughput, so the drainage tray is taken with a smaller cross-section. It is safe for pedestrians; installation of drainage channels is carried out in an intensively used small part of the yard. An example of what a closed drainage system looks like is shown in the figure.
3. The backfill drainage of the site is a channel filled with solid filler (small stone). A perforated pipe can be installed to speed up the drainage of liquid from the bottom of a concrete tray. To prevent siltation of the stone fraction, it is recommended to cover the bulk of the bulk material with geotextiles, leaving a small top layer of 5–10 cm to protect the material from mechanical damage. Periodically, retained dirt is removed by washing the crushed stone.
4. Deep drainage is used during construction on clay soils and areas with a high level of water content (in lowlands, next to a reservoir). The laid drainage depth around the house is 0.5 m below the base of the foundation. The beginning of drainage work coincides with the construction of the foundation - the drainage pattern around the house is taken into account in the marking of trenches/pits and excavation of the required amount of soil.

Each type of drainage work is different in labor intensity, but in terms of their characteristics, role in protecting buildings, and throughput, the types are not interchangeable options.

Components

Ditches must be dug at a slope

Correct installation of a drainage system around the house will require the presence of all components, calculation of the drainage system and compliance with installation rules.

Trenches are dug so that the ring drainage is obtained with the desired slope, using a laser level (range finder).

The size of the slope may vary depending on the pipe capacity:

You can check the presence of a slope in the trench during the next heavy rain - streams of flowing water should be directed towards the well.

Geotextiles

Textile is a water filter that prevents large fractions from entering drainage pipes

The role of this material in installing drainage is to filter water from small impurities that clog the perforation holes of the pipes and litter the crushed stone.

Reducing the gaps reduces the ability to quickly remove water from the area for which the ring drainage is designed.

The throughput of 1 layer of geotextile is given in the technical characteristics of the product, depends on the brand and is inversely proportional to strength:

It is placed under the pipes at the bottom of the trench and protects the entire bulk part so that the flow of water into the ring drainage outlet is not reduced. In dry sandy soils, protection with drainage pipes may not be used.

Pipe

Corrugated pipes are the most popular

The drainage system can be constructed from pipes that differ not only in Ø, but also in material.

When installing a drainage system, choose products that are not prone to corrosion, since repairing or replacing them is quite difficult.

For drainage installation around the site, choose pipes from the following range:

• ceramic (fired clay);
• asbestos-cement;
• porous;
• polymer (corrugated).

The most durable of them include asbestos-cement pipes; in other cases, polymer pipes are usually chosen for the device:

Perforation of drainage pipes is done during factory production or holes and cuts are made when installing the drainage of a private house with your own hands. The gravel fraction must be larger than the size of the holes.

Well

Wells are installed at a distance of 12 m from each other

The drainage calculation must include inspection wells for monitoring and cleaning the system.

They are located along the drainage system in increments of about 12 m.

Structurally, production can be made from stacked rings, the Ø of which allows you to clean silt deposits, or industrial products presented in the table:

The ring drainage of the foundation of a private house can be assembled from pipes of various sizes with an increase in the Ø of the passage in the direction of movement of the collected flows. Several drainage pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm can be connected to the well. To learn how a deep drainage well works, watch this video:

Functionally, the well into which water flows from drainage pipes can be accumulating (with a sealed bottom) or absorbing (water gradually goes into the soil through a layer of crushed stone protected from silting by geotextiles).

Pricing

The approach to prices of a specialized company and the scope of work for the construction of wall drainage is divided into the categories “economy”, “standard”, “capital”, the total amount depends on the footage of the system.

In large companies (for example, United Company), services and prices for proper drainage around the house can have a wider range:

• verified;
• economical;
• rational;
• premium For more information on how to arrange drainage around the house, watch this video:

Qualified calculation of the characteristics of all necessary elements, the ability to carry out installation in compliance with technical specifications, in a short time frame the first time, imply not only the rational use of financial resources (with a guarantee from the company for 24 months), but also the service life of the selected system up to 50 years.

Owners of personal plots located on land with a high level of humidity, as well as all owners of garden plots in the autumn and spring, have to face the problem of installing a high-quality drainage system. An increased level of soil moisture leads to such unpleasant consequences as diseases of various plantings in the garden plot, erosion of the foundation of the house and outbuildings by groundwater, as well as flooding of the basement. One type of drainage system is drainage without pipes, the design of which can be found below.

There are two types of drainage system:

• Open
• Closed

The first type is used to remove surface water that forms after snow melts or rainfall. Typically, open drainage looks like this: grooves 0.7 m deep and 0.5 m wide are dug throughout the area with a certain slope. Often plastic or concrete trays are placed in the recesses, covered with a grid on top. A layer of sand about 10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the ditches and compacted thoroughly.

The second type of drainage, closed, is used to drain groundwater. Below the freezing level of the soil, ditches are dug with a slope, at the bottom of which pipes are laid to drain water into a drainage well.

In addition to using piping in a closed drainage system, backfill material can be used using broken stone or brick placed inside the trench. This method is inexpensive, but ineffective, since it quickly leads to silting of ditches. An alternative and effective way to create a drainage system from the soil is drainage with crushed stone without pipes, or so-called soft drainage.

Drainage in an area without pipes

The choice in favor of drainage with crushed stone without pipes is often due to the fact that the soil contains an insignificant volume of water, which would require the construction of a volumetric drainage system with pipes. In addition, the reason for choosing drainage without pipes may be that the terrain of the site or its layout is too complex, a large number of plantings, as well as insufficient finances to arrange a complex drainage system. A drainage system using crushed stone without pipes is less expensive and simpler to install: you just need to ensure the correct slope of the grooves without aligning different pipes.

Depending on the type of soil, the urgency of the work, and financial feasibility, drainage on the site can be done in two ways: with or without the use of geotextile material. In the first case, the drainage method will be more expensive, and in the second, less durable.

There are a lot of varieties of geotextile material, as well as their manufacturers, on the market today. The best option for arranging a drainage system would be polypropylene geotextiles. It withstands various environmental influences well and is also characterized by excellent filtering qualities. To effectively work on drainage, you will need a geotextile fabric with a density of 60-110 g/m2. Geotextiles act as a filter material, while it is also necessary to use a waterproofing material. Such material is tecton. Geotextile fabric prevents drainage materials from becoming clogged for a long time and trenches from silting up. With the help of tecton, water does not accumulate in the soil, but is transported outside the site into the drain. Of course, you can replace tecton with more inexpensive materials, such as polyethylene film, roofing felt, and other cardboard-based bituminous materials, but they do not guarantee the long-term service of the drainage system.

Sand and crushed stone are selected as drainage materials. There are no special requirements for sand, and crushed stone should be chosen that is not limestone, because after some time it will cause salinization of the soil. The crushed stone fraction can range from 20 to 60 mm. The backfill material will need to be washed before backfilling the trenches.

How to make drainage in an area without pipes

Before making drainage without using pipes, it is necessary to draw up a geodetic plan of the site with marked places of highlands and lowlands. These sections will determine the direction of the trench lines, since drainage without pipes should begin at the highest point of the relief and end at the lowest. The drainage system layout should consist of: a central conductor with a depth of at least 50 cm, drainage drains at a distance of 7-10 meters from each other, as well as a water storage tank if it is not discharged by the system outside the site.

A trench is dug at an angle that coincides with the direction of the drainage. The bottom of the recess should be made semicircular, like a gutter.

The ditches are cleared of debris and dirt, after which the bottom is lined with tecton. Geotextiles are laid on top inside the ditch so that the bottom and side walls are completely covered with a margin of at least 20-30 cm. After this, crushed stone is poured and covered with geotextile fabric with an overlap of at least 30 cm. Sand is poured on top of the crushed stone and thoroughly compacted. You can lay turf on a sandy surface or use a geogrid or geogrid if the trench site is located in an area with a high load on the soil.

Soil drainage without the use of waterproofing materials is done in a similar way, but has fewer advantages. Soft drainage with the laying of geotextiles and tecton not only removes water from the site, but also filters it, allowing it to be used in the future as process water or for watering plantings.

DIY drainage around the house without pipes

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house has certain features. Depending on the height of the foundation of the house, a ditch is dug to a depth that exceeds the base of the foundation of the house by 30-50 cm. In this case, you should pay attention to the fact that you cannot dig a drainage trench around all the walls at once - this poses a certain danger to the stability of the foundation, so trenches are dug near the walls one by one. The angle of inclination of the trench should be 1 cm per 1 linear meter.

The bottom, maintaining a certain slope, is carefully compacted. This can be done using compacted clay or concreting. The foundation near the wall is waterproofed. Next, a layer of crushed stone of a coarse fraction is laid to a depth of 1/3 of the ditch, a layer of crushed stone of a finer fraction is laid on top of it, and fine drainage is laid on top of them to level it with the surface of the earth.

Soft drainage without crushed stone

Drainage without the use of pipes can also be carried out without the use of crushed stone, since, depending on the depth of the trenches, its quantity is sometimes very large and expensive. One of these methods is fascine drainage: birch, coniferous, or oak brushwood, tied in bundles 30 cm long, is laid at the bottom of the trenches. Crossed pegs are laid along the entire length of the trench, and brushwood (fascine) is placed underneath them. Sand is poured on top.

Instead of crushed stone, it is also advisable to use expanded clay to arrange a wall drainage system around the house. Its main advantage is low thermal conductivity, due to which it performs a heat-insulating function.

A closed method of soil drainage involves using backfill material - pieces of brick, small stones, concrete fragments. The entire trench is filled with these materials, but without the use of geotextiles such a ditch very quickly silts up.

Using ordinary plastic bottles is an alternative to crushed stone and fascines, a simple and budget option. To implement such a drainage system, bottles with screwed caps are placed along the trench at the bottom. Turf is laid on top and sprinkled with earth. Drainage occurs in the space between the bottles.

Another alternative method involves the use of poles. Long branches are laid at the bottom of the trench on spacers made of wooden sticks. The poles must be made of coniferous wood, previously cleared of bark.

The last two described methods of site drainage are unpredictable in terms of service life and operational efficiency, but they are the best options when there are not enough funds for laying drainage from pipes or crushed stone.

Beginning construction a small country house or a respectable cottage, everyone expects that his brainchild will stand for more than one ten years and will serve growing children and even grandchildren.
How long will it last? built house- depends primarily on correctly executed grounds.
But even quality foundation will not help if he is in constant conditions dampness caused by the presence of moisture in the surrounding soil.

Water can penetrate into the ground after rain, when snow melts, and the most unpleasant case is if the area is high ground water level(UGV).

What is it and what is its purpose
To avoid flooding foundation by rain, melt or groundwater and serves drainage system, which is a collection of devices intended for removal excess moisture: trays, channels, trenches, wells and so on.

Drainage systems are used for foundation protection a separate building or the entire site, if it is located in an area with low relief. This article discusses drainage systems for foundations house under construction.

Main types of drainage structures

Trenches of this type are used to drain surface water when the area on which the house under construction is located has practically no no slope or even in small depression.

After prolonged rains, you can only approach such a house in rubber boots, not to mention spring flood.

Using open ground trenches they organize collection and disposal surface water into the sewer system, a special collection well, or off-site, if possible.

Open systems are easy to make, but they spoil the landscape and are unsafe when walking - you can easily trip.

Closed

Such drainage is a more effective solution for draining soil on significant depth- up to one and a half meters.

Represents a system filter pipes, placed in water-permeable material: small crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay

For this purpose, special perforated pipes with numerous holes small diameter.

You can also use regular plastic sewer pipes by drilling holes using an electric drill. The design of such a system is much more complex and expensive.

Backfill

Used for a small area backfill drainage trenches. They successfully remove both surface and groundwater.

In this case, there is no need to spend money on purchasing pipes and related accessories (angles, tees, gratings, etc.). Ditches are dug to a depth of 1 to 1.5 m the perimeter of the house at some distance and fill them with broken bricks or crushed stone of large fractions.


It is better to cover this backfill with a strip of geotextile on top, and then fill it earth with laying turf. True, they cannot be cleaned after silting.

Superficial

There is nothing more than open drainage. It has 2 varieties: point and line.

Point drainage

Perform for local lead water (from one point). For example, from a drainpipe, from a garden shower or watering tap.

If there is a place on the site where often accumulates water, it is easiest to get rid of it using this method. The device is water intake, usually purchased, laid flush with the surface of the earth in the required location.

Concrete or plastic are attached to it trays, laid with a slope of about 1 degree in the direction of water drainage. The top of the trays is covered with metal or plastic bars.

Linear drainage

If several point receivers combine into one general drainage main, you get a linear drainage system.

It should be recalled that point and linear systems only assign superficial water

The final destination could be storm drain, receiving sump or filter well.

Deep

If the house is located in the lowlands, or at depth there is a waterproof clay layer, as well as at high groundwater level quantity underground water will be large.

In this case, deep drainage should be performed closed type, the device of which is described above. To avoid clogging drainage pipes, make inspection (cleaning) pipes wells of such a size that you can put your hand into it.

Position cleaning elements follows in corner, T-shaped junctions and through 10–12 meters of underground communications. Depending on the location relative to the foundation, deep drainage can be wall or ring.

Wall drainage

Arranged when there is a basement or basement. A trench is dug close to the wall of the strip foundation.

You can avoid additional excavation work if you do it when laying the foundation. The depth of the shallowest point should be approximately 20 cm greater than the depth of the sole.

The pipe is being laid inside drainage layer of gravel, small crushed stone or expanded clay, wrapping everything with geotextile fabric.

When backfilling a ditch with soil, a layer of clean coarse-grained soil is poured close to the side surface of the foundation. river sand, with layer-by-layer compaction 25–30 cm thick.

You should first coat the foundation wall with a layer of greasy crumpled clay(clay castle).

Ring drainage

Performed if there is no basement in the house. In this case, a trench is dug after the construction of the house is completed at a distance of 1.5–3 m from the foundation.

We carry out drainage ourselves

Best time to make

Drainage system is best build in summer, although in the heat it’s tempting to rest in the shade

And the ground at this time can be so dry that you can even pick it with a crowbar. Despite these negative aspects, there is no better time of year to do this work.

in spring, after the snow melts, the ground remains damp for a long time. If a drainage system is made at this time, by autumn the earth will settle, and it may the seal is broken connections of drainage pipes, which will require further additional time to eliminate defects.

On autumn months hope is frivolous, inclement rains may result in work having to be rescheduled until next summer season.

Preparing for installation

More attention should be paid to preparation for production drainage around a residential building. Lack of thoughtfulness in the layout of the device can lead to unnecessary excavation work or the purchase of unnecessary building materials, which will then uselessly occupy storage space.

Before starting work, it is necessary to draw up a large-scale site plan indicating elevation marks, select a location for placement settling well.


If you plan to drain wastewater for the territory of the site, it is necessary to obtain permission from the local sanitary and epidemiological station (SES). Otherwise, all the work may be in vain, and money may be wasted.

Required Tools

For the manufacture of drainage system You won't need many tools. Most of them, as a rule, are available to each owner:

• measuring tape 30–50 m long;
• building level;
• hydraulic level up to 50 m long;
• bayonet and shovel shovels;
• wheelbarrow.

Instead of a hydraulic level, it’s a good idea to purchase an optical or laser level level. The laser device will be useful for interior decoration of a house under construction.

Experience shows that the hydraulic level has an unpleasant property “lie” during the measurement process. This happens due to the fact that the connecting hose can get air bubbles, which lead to distortion of the result.

Making drainage

Let's consider making a drainage system around the house with your own hands. Let's do this using the example of constructing a deep wall drainage(meaning that the drainage system is being built simultaneously with the construction of the foundation):

Making a drainage well

At the end of the drainage system they erect filter or overflow drainage well. If it is not possible to drain water from it directly at the location, you will have to pump out the water using submersible pump.

For well installation you can purchase ready-made concrete or plastic sections and assemble them into a finished structure. Purchased rings from reinforced concrete during installation will create difficulties due to heavy weight.

Alternatively, you can cast a well made of concrete directly at the place of its installation.

Done according to all rules drainage system along the perimeter of the house under construction will save foundation from exposure to moisture, thanks to which the waterproofing will retain its protective functions for a long time, the basement will be dry, and the walls of the house will serve more than one generation.

Many developers decide to build a house with a basement. The cost of building a basement is comparable to the cost of building a regular floor.

Only non-residential, auxiliary premises can be located in the basement - laundry, gym, sauna, boiler room, workshop, storage room, etc. All these rooms could be located on a regular floor or attic with better comfort and convenience.

In the recent past, it was customary to build houses on deep strip foundations. The construction of a basement in such a house was indeed beneficial - the foundation served as the outer walls of the basement premises.

Application in modern low-rise construction of lightweight structures and makes it unprofitable to install a basement in the house.

However, lovers of tradition and solidity often choose a house with a basement on a deep strip foundation. To comfortably use the rooms in the basement, The basement must be protected from ground moisture.

How to protect your basement or basement from water and dampness

is constantly present. The groundwater level, the amount of perched water, and soil moisture on the site vary with the seasons of the year and depend on the structure and properties of the soil, the amount of precipitation, the terrain and the type of coverage on the site.

If the house is located on a slope, then, as a rule, it is necessary to drain water flowing down the slope away from the house. Water flows down the slope both on the surface and along underground horizons.

To protect the basement from water, two lines of defense are arranged:

1. A ring drain around the house, at the level of the base of the foundation, which intercepts and removes from the basement walls most of the water tending to flood the basement.
2. Waterproofing of basement walls and floors, designed primarily to protect against capillary soil moisture.

Only basement waterproofing, without drainage, leads to the water still finds a hole. If not immediately, then in a few years. A damp basement is money down the drain.

If you decide to make a basement or ground floor in your house, then I definitely recommend doing wall drainage, you will not regret.

Wall drainage is done simultaneously with the construction of the foundation. Its cost is minimal, compared to the cost of protecting an already flooded or damp basement from water.

If you want to take a risk, save on a drainage system and abandon its device, then conduct thorough research. Assess seasonal fluctuations in groundwater levels at the site. Does it appear in the spring? Find out from your neighbors if they have drainage, if their basement is flooded.

The lack of drainage, as a rule, will require strengthening the waterproofing of the foundation and increasing the cost of its installation.

The design of the wall drainage is adapted solely to protect the basement or the ground floor from the water. If it is necessary to solve other problems, for example, lower the groundwater level throughout the entire area or reduce water saturation, then other types of drainage are used.

The installation of wall drainage around the basement is, as a rule, mandatory:

• With a constant or seasonal rise in the groundwater level above the base of the foundation.
• If perched water appears on the site in the spring.

• For a house located on a slope, on the side of water flowing down the slope.
• If there is a waterproof layer of soil on the site.

The last condition is caused by this. To reduce the forces of frost heaving, the soil cushion of the foundation and the cavity of the foundation pit are usually covered with permeable soil. If the soil on the site is waterproof, then the surface water will seep into the permeable foundation backfill and accumulate there.

Where to direct water from the roof

Water flowing from the roof through drainpipes should not seep into the ground next to the walls of the house.

You can find a description of the design of a drainage system that directs water from the roof into wall drainage pipes. Wall drainage pipes in this case have a dual purpose - they serve both to collect groundwater around the foundation and to transport water from the roof.

Using leaky wall drainage pipes to also move water from the roof is quite risky, and usually ends up flooding the basement during heavy rain.

It is best to install a separate drainage system to drain water from the roof and surface runoff from areas on the site.

Sectional view of wall drainage around the foundation of a house

(click on the picture to enlarge)

Scheme of ring wall drainage of a house basement

Drainage pipes - drains, are laid along the foundation walls and create a protective ring around the house. At the corners the ring of drains breaks in the drainage wells. The water collected by drains is discharged into a storage, prefabricated well.

Water can be removed from a prefabricated storage well in several directions:

• Used on the site for household needs and watering plantings.
• Drop onto the terrain outside the site.
• Filter into the underlying layers of soil.
• Head to the central sewer of the village.

The method of using drainage water is chosen based on local conditions and the desires of the home owner.

To discharge drainage water into the central sewer system of the village, according to the rules, permission from the owner of the sewerage network and payment for services for receiving and transporting wastewater are required.

Soil particles settle in drainage wells, settle to the bottom and accumulate, which are carried by water in drains. In addition, the wells are used to monitor the proper operation of the drainage system and periodically, as necessary, wash the drainage area with a stream of water to remove sediments that have accumulated there.

Drainage wells are installed at the turning angles of the route, when the slope or height difference changes, as well as on straight sections every 40-50 meters. It is not necessary to install a well at turning corners if the distance from the corner to the nearest well is no more than 20 meters. The absence of wells at two corners of rotation in a row is not allowed.

Slope of drainage pipes

The length of the drainage section between adjacent drainage wells should be no more than 50 meters. Drains are laid with a slope of more than 0.5% (0.5 cm per 1 meter of pipe length) towards the collection well.

The angle of inclination is selected so that at the bottom mark of the drainage ring around the house the bottom edge of the drain is placed at 20 cm(to the height of the gravel backfill) above the base of the foundation. At the top mark of the ring, the sole of the drain should be located at 20 cm. below the floor level in the basement.

It is not allowed to bury wall drainage (including gravel backfill) into the sandy foundation cushion, so as not to reduce the load-bearing capacity of the pillow and foundation.

To place pipes with the required slope sometimes it is necessary to increase the distance between the base of the foundation and the floor level in the basement more than is required for design reasons. This makes foundation construction more expensive.

In this case It can be advantageous to abandon the construction of wall drainage and perform remote drainage. Remote drainage pipes are laid at a distance of 1-3 m. from the foundation. In this case, the bottom elevation of the drains may be lower than the base of the foundation.

It can also be advantageous to install remote drainage to protect an already built house with a basement.

Ring wall drainage device

How to make wall drainage with your own hands is clear from the drawings, which show the whole process step by step.

Geotextiles

Geotextiles are synthetic fabrics specifically designed for laying in the ground. The material allows water to pass through, but retains soil particles. The drainage design prevents siltation of soil particles into the filter backfill, drainage slabs and pipes.

Filtering, draining layer on the foundation wall

On the foundation wall Drainage slabs or drainage mats are placed on top of the waterproofing. Special permeable slabs or mats made of polymer material intercept water that seeps into the foundation wall. Through channels in the slabs or mats, the water flows down to the gravel layer and then enters the drainage pipes.

In addition, drainage slabs or mats protect the waterproofing from mechanical damage.

The drainage slab is separated from the soil by a layer of geotextile. Manufacturers produce drainage mats with a layer of geotextile already attached to their surface.

Drainage slabs can be easily made with your own hands. The slabs are cast from Expanded clay of the largest and lightest fractions (20-40 mm and more), slabs made of this material will not only drain water, but also serve as insulation for the basement walls. Slabs with a thickness of at least 100 mm. laid out dry with a bandage along the basement wall and covered with a geotextile cloth.

For insulating basement walls, instead of drainage slabs Insulation boards - extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 100 - are glued pointwise onto the waterproofing of the foundation. mm, A profiled plastic membrane and geotextile are fixed on top of the insulation boards.

Membranes with geotextile fabric already attached to their surface are available for sale. Through the membrane channels, the water that has leaked through the geotextile flows down to the gravel coating of the drainage pipe. The membrane also protects the insulation from damage by soil.

Drainage pipes

Corrugated plastic perforated drainage pipes with holes evenly spaced on the surface are available for sale on the construction market. The outside of the pipes is covered with a layer of geotextile, which protects the pipes from clogging with soil particles.

For installation of wall drainage, pipes with a diameter of at least 100 are used. mm.

The pipes are connected to each other using special couplings. At angles of rotation, it is recommended to join the pipes with two fittings with a rotation angle other than 90 degrees. As a result, the rotation of the pipe will be smoother.

Drainage wells

Drainage wells are assembled from ready-made plastic sections with a diameter of about 300 mm.

You can use any other pipes of approximately the specified size. The bottom of the well should be 200-500 below the level of the drainage pipes mm.

Every two to three years, the wells are cleaned and the drainage pipes are washed with a stream of water.

Prefabricated storage well

The water collected by the drainage system is discharged into a prefabricated storage well. A well is a reservoir where a certain amount of drainage water accumulates. From the reservoir, using a submersible drainage pump, water is periodically pumped out in a certain direction, for example, into a surface drain and then onto the terrain outside the site.

The capacity of the well - the volume from the bottom to the supply pipe, is chosen large enough so that the frequency of pumping out water is not burdensome for the owners.

If the pumping process is automated, then the volume of the well and the degree of concern of the owners can be significantly reduced. To do this, a stationary drainage pump equipped with a float switch is installed in the well and electricity is supplied.

In the latter case, for the construction of a small-volume collection well It is convenient to use the same design as for a drainage well. In order to increase the volume and ensure the operation of the pump, the collection well is made deeper than the drainage well.

It is necessary to ensure that The water level in the collection well did not rise above the level of the drainage pipes.

Drainage water from a collection well can be pumped into an underground container, where it is accumulated and used for watering plantings, washing cars and other household needs. This is beneficial if in the same container direct surface drainage water from the roof of the house and from the sites on the site.

The design of the storage tank is similar to the design of a septic tank for an autonomous sewer system. For example, such a reservoir in the shape of a well, like a septic tank, is made from. You can also use plastic containers.

Water from the roof and surface drainage system under no circumstances should it fall into drainage system. Drainage cannot cope with the removal of large amounts of water during a rainstorm, and rainwater through the drainage can flood the basement. Pipes and wells of drainage and drainage systems must be isolated from each other.

If on site the groundwater level is low, and the lower layer of soil on the site is permeable, then the prefabricated well can be made in the form. Water from the well will seep into the permeable soil layer. The depth of the well should be such that the filtration zone is located in a permeable soil layer.

Protection of the drainage system from freezing

Drainage system - drains, wells at the level of drains and below, in winter must be located in a non-freezing layer of soil. It is known that in spring water appears on the surface of the earth much earlier than the soil frozen at depth thaws. Frozen drainage will not be able to remove water from the foundation.

The soil surrounding the drainage may freeze if it is located higher. For example, for the Moscow region, the calculated depth will be 0.7 m. This development of events is especially likely if the basement of the house is not heated or well insulated.

In case of danger of freezing, the soil is insulated, laying slabs of PSB 35 foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 100 under the blind area of ​​the building mm.

In a private house there are several places that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. These are the foundation and buried buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of drains and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent this process from occurring. It is capable of removing excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot compare in terms of protection for a house with a installed drainage system. It is highly recommended to install such a system near every house, regardless of the presence of a basement or ground floor.

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several options:

Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a specific type of drainage depends on the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the topography of the site itself. Let's consider what features the drainage system around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:

Important: Please note that reservoir drainage does not replace another type of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, a main drainage system must be installed.

Please note that if you decide to make a ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. This arrangement will ensure high-quality drainage of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

And if you are thinking about this, then you may find our separate material on this topic useful.

Drainage installation

Let's look at how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Manufacturing of wall drainage

Before carrying out the work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will be directly adjacent to it.

To do this, the following work is carried out:

1. The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bitumen primer.
2. Bitumen mastic is applied to the dried surface.
3. A reinforcing mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells is glued onto the mastic.
4. The next day, after the mastic has hardened, a second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

The photo shows the drainage system around the house - a trench and inspection wells along the edges

• A collector well is installed to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
• using a laser or building level, the slope of the trench running near the foundation is ensured towards the drainage basin;
• the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
• geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be wrapped overlapping;
• a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of about 10 cm;
• Prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. Their slope is ensured at 2 degrees;
• pipes are joined with adapters and corner connectors;
• at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter installed inspection wells;
• Pipes are laid from inspection wells to drain water into a collection well or drainage pit. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
• The pipes are filled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped in geotextiles. Using synthetic ropes, geotextiles are firmly fixed;
• further backfilling of the trenches to the soil level is carried out with sand or turf soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Manufacturing of ring drainage

For this type of work you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When a ring drainage system is made around a house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building to eliminate the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the structure and form a closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes 50 cm below the foundation level.

Immediately draw a trench (or several trenches) towards the main drainage well. The slope of the trenches is ensured at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.

• the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped on their walls;
• crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile in a layer of 10 cm;
• Pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on the crushed stone. It is advisable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to first wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent them from clogging;

Tip: Regular PVC pipes used for sewerage are quite suitable. You can drill holes of small diameter in them with a drill, arranging them in a certain order.

• the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
• At pipe bends, inspection wells are installed, covered with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, in increments of 12 m;
• crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes in a layer of 20-30 cm;
• the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with geotextile overlapping;
• the remaining space in the trenches is filled with river sand and covered with turf.

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or building must be constructed using several inspection wells located at pipe bends. It is in these places that drainage pipes become clogged most often. Through the inspection well, you can monitor the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any materials. They should have such a width that it is convenient to clean them by placing your hand there.

In addition to several inspection wells, at the lowest point of the site there is collector well, designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen so that the pipes entering it are located at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to fill with wastewater. Water can be pumped out from the collection tank by a pump or flow by gravity to designated areas.

By creating a drainage system around the house according to all the rules, you will get rid of the harmful effects of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed areas of the house.