You can make a lot of beautiful flowers with your own hands from various materials. These can be plastic bottles, leather, foamiran, satin ribbon, etc. Flowers made from any material are very beautiful and unusual. In addition, they will serve you for a very long time and will delight you with their beauty. Today we will look at two interesting master classes on making orchids from foamiran. The author of this master class is Irina Zvereva. Look at what a beautiful orchid Irina made with her own hands and shared with us the manufacturing process. Also, if you want to learn how to make an orchid from a satin ribbon, you can watch a master class on how to make it.

To make an orchid you will need:
* Foamiran of the desired color.
* Orchid petal patterns.
* Dry pastel.
* Scissors.
* Iron.
* Cotton swab.
* Thermal gun.

How to make an orchid with your own hands:
To make an orchid we need templates. These are the templates we will use during our work. We draw templates on paper or thick cardboard and use them to apply patterns to the foamiran. Foamirn by color choose which one you like best. Then we cut out our blanks. Photos of templates can be either reduced or enlarged, depending on the size of the flower you need.

We carefully apply the edges of the petals to a hot iron and use our fingers to stretch them a little. This is how we process two parts. You should get a slight waviness of the petals.

We wrap the top of the stick with foamiran and then divide it in the middle so that we have a line left.

The photo shows what the middle of the cotton swab should look like. Next, we begin to collect our flower. First, glue the tinted petal around the center.

Then glue the next double petal.

We still have three petals left. First, glue one petal on top, and then two on the bottom. You should end up with an orchid like in the photo.

Look how beautiful orchids Irina turned out.

You can make beautiful decorations from ready-made orchids or simply use them for interior decoration.

We thank Irina for a fascinating master class on making an orchid with your own hands from foamiran.

Master class - DIY orchid

To make an orchid we will need:

• Foamiran of the desired color.
• Thermal gun.
• Molds.
• Pastel in the right colors.
• Brush.
• Hair fixation spray.

Method for making an orchid from foamiran:

To make a flower, we need patterns; we draw orchid petals on a piece of paper. To make one flower we need 6 petals.

We will also need these molds to make an orchid.

Cut out the required number of petals.

We heat them on the iron and immediately, before the petal has cooled down, use a mold to add texture to the petals.

We heat the core and give it this shape.

Here are the finished petals for making an orchid.

We trim the petals a little, but this is optional. Olga thinks it will be prettier this way.

These are the petals we should get for the orchid.

Select the shades you need and tint the base and edges of the petals.

This is how it should work! At the end of the work, we fix the pastel with hairspray so that it does not crumble or get dirty! Also, after varnishing, the colors will become a little brighter and more saturated!

We use decorative wire for ease of assembly. Then we remove it.

This is the kind of petal you should get for making an orchid.

Then glue the two petals together.

Then three petals together.

Now we glue the fourth petal; it does not need to be glued at the base.

Opposite it we glue the fifth and last petal.

We glue the center in the middle of the flower and this is what we get.

We take a thin brush and, using it and acrylic paint, decorate the core of the flower.

DIY orchid made from foamiran is ready.

You can make many beautiful orchids that can be used as decoration for your interior or as a hair decoration.

Olga made a beautiful panel of orchids and roses with her own hands.

I also offer you two more videos of a master class on making orchids from foamiran.

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The orchid is liked by many gardeners who are not at all opposed to decorating their own home with this beautiful plant. However, a flower will become a decoration only if it is forced to bloom again - and this is not an easy task, requiring compliance with a number of conditions, the presence of certain external factors and provision of proper care. Otherwise, there will be no flowering, and the dream of a beautiful orchid in your own home will remain just a dream.

So what should be done to overcome the stubbornness of the orchid and make it bloom? To do this, it is enough to follow 9 specific care rules, which will be described in detail below.

Rule 1: age matters a lot

Typically, orchids bloom at the age of one and a half to three years, depending on the specific type of flower. Therefore, if an orchid is suddenly in no hurry to bloom, you need to ask about its age - perhaps the flower is simply too young to bloom. It is easy to calculate the age of an orchid by the number of shoots. An adult plant, already ready to bloom, will have about 5-8 of them. A young one will naturally have fewer shoots. But early flowering of an orchid most often leads to the death of the plant, since a young flower, as a rule, cannot recover after early flowering.

Rule 2: follow the roots

Since orchid roots take an active part in the process of photosynthesis, it is very important to provide them with the appropriate amount of natural light. This is easy to do if you plant the flower not in classic ceramic pots, but in modern ones - transparent, made of plastic, and equipped with a sufficient number of drainage holes. This will be the best solution that will allow the roots to develop without any problems. But pots with corrugated walls or sharp edges can cause harm to the orchid’s roots, and therefore it is better to avoid such containers from the beginning.

Rule 3: no need to move the pot

This is another purely orchid whim - the plant really doesn’t like being moved. Any change in lighting conditions becomes a terrible stress for the orchid, after which there can be no talk of growth. Hence the third rule: it is better not to move the orchid pot at all, and even if you do move it, then try to maintain the same type of lighting for the plant as accurately as possible. And it is better to completely avoid moving the flower during watering and during the period when the peduncle appears.

Rule 4: life-giving light - you can’t live without it

Since the conversation touched on lighting, we need to remind flower growers how demanding the orchid is to light. It is preferable that the light is sunny, and that the plant does not remain in the shade throughout the day. Naturally, it is difficult to fulfill such a condition, and therefore it is better for gardeners to buy a phytolamp in advance - a special lamp that will provide the orchid with a lot of light, but will not dry out the air around the flower or overheat the peduncle itself, which is also not desirable.

This rule becomes especially important if the orchid suddenly produces a peduncle in winter or autumn - that is, at a time when daylight hours are short and there is definitely not enough natural light. On such days, illumination with a phytolamp will provide invaluable help, preventing the flower from drying out or stopping developing. If the owner of the orchid cannot, for some reason, illuminate the entire plant, then, as a last resort, only the tip of the peduncle can be illuminated.

Rule 5: ensure proper watering

Watering an orchid is also a delicate matter. To prevent the roots of the plant from rotting, you need to water it only when the soil is completely dry, which will be at intervals of approximately 10-12 days. This rule applies to plants of all ages, and at any time of the year, with one small exception - you need to reduce watering the orchid by 1 month after it has bloomed. This is due to the fact that under natural conditions, the seeds of an orchid, after flowering, must scatter from the mother flower over distances of several kilometers, which is only possible in dry and not rainy weather. If you create conditions close to natural for the orchid by temporarily stopping watering, the flower will bloom more often and will be healthier overall.

Another small rule is to water the orchid more often in the period before flowering and during the flowering period. In the future, you can return to the usual watering scheme, which should be observed both for flowers with pseudobulbs and for plants with stiffer leaves.

Rule 6: large temperature changes are evil

The orchid really does not like strong temperature changes and blooms well only in conditions when the night temperature does not drop below 4-6° C relative to the day. However, achieving such an almost ideal climate will not be easy. During the warm season, that is, from spring to autumn, the plant can also stand on the balcony, where nature itself will provide a natural temperature difference (although we must not forget about sudden temperature changes in both directions). But in the cold season, you will have to look for a more suitable place somewhere in the house for the capricious flower - for example, near the radiator.

It is also very important to ventilate the room where the orchid grows, but do not abuse it, since the flower also does not tolerate drafts.

Rule 7: Fertilizers must also be correct

Feeding an orchid is an important condition for its development and future flowering. It is best to use fertilizers made from potassium and phosphorus - thanks to them, flower buds appear faster, and the flowers subsequently turn out to be stronger and much healthier. But it is unsafe to use nitrogen-based fertilizers for orchids, since nitrogen inhibits the development of the peduncle.

Rule 8: comply with air humidity standards

And one more requirement for the orchid’s vagaries is air humidity. In rule No. 3 it was already mentioned that this plant does not like dry air, due to which it may stop developing or, alternatively, both the flowers and unopened buds of the orchid may dry out.

The optimal air humidity for orchids is 60% and above. This can be achieved by placing a saucer of water near the flower or, in drier times, by direct spraying. The latter method is especially good during the heating season, when it’s warm outside, but the radiators are still driving heat, and the house gets a little hot.

Rule 9: Stress Helps Flowering

It happens that all the conditions seem to be met, but the damned flower does not shoot an arrow, even if you sit down and cry. The reason for this may be, paradoxically, the orchid’s excessively comfortable living conditions. It is from an excess of comfort that the flower drives its forces into the growth of green mass, but if you put the orchid into temporary stress - for example, put it in a cool room or water it significantly less - then this will quickly stimulate flowering. True, this method is best left as a last resort...

The orchid has a dormant period

The dormant period for orchids begins after they bloom, and during this time the flower accumulates strength for the next flowering. Fortunately for gardeners, no special care is required for an orchid that has retired. It is enough to follow the above 9 rules to ensure that the flower remains alive and healthy. It is only better to reduce the quantity and frequency of fertilizing during this period, since the orchid, as already mentioned, is resting.

But the dormant period is the best time to replant the plant. The orchid does not bloom temporarily, and therefore will tolerate replanting relatively calmly if, for example, the roots have grown into the drainage holes or if the soil dries out very quickly after watering. Usually a transplant is done once every 2-3 years or even less often if there is no urgent need for it.
Which orchids are suitable for cutting?

To create a wonderful bouquet of orchids that will last not hours, but weeks, you need to use only cymbidiums, phalaenopsis and paphiopedilums. Other types of orchids quickly wither and are therefore completely unsuitable for cutting. If you have little understanding of the varieties of orchids, then when buying a flower for subsequent cutting, pay attention to its sepals and petals - if they are hard and shiny, as if covered with wax, then such flowers will definitely last a long time when cut.

Orchids in a bouquet - is it possible to extend their life?

If until now we have only discussed “house” orchids, that is, those growing in pots, now it’s time to talk about orchids in bouquets given as a gift for some kind of celebration. You can extend their life if you follow some recommendations:

Under running water, cut the stems diagonally, and then repeat this procedure every 2-3 days.
Keep cut orchids only in boiled or filtered water, periodically changing it or adding fresh water.
Protect orchids from extreme temperatures, from sudden temperature changes, from lack of light, from excess sunlight and from drafts - in this regard, “bouquet” orchids are not much different from “potted” ones.

That's all, actually. Just follow these numerous rules and then your orchid will bloom all year round - there is simply no other way.

Save so you don't lose.

In today's tutorial we will show you how to create an elegant exotic flower - an orchid - from corrugated paper. Today there are about 30,000 species of orchids, some species are successfully used in floristry. The branches of these flowers look harmonious in all directions, be it a wedding bouquet or a composition for decorating a winter interior. These flowers are also popular in corrugated bouquets and suite designs, because they are quite quick and easy to design.

Materials and tools for creating an orchid:

• corrugated paper in light yellow, light green and green;
• scissors;
• a piece of wire;
• watercolor paints;
• thin brush;
• hot glue;
• ruler;
• container with water;
• paper napkins.

How to make an orchid from corrugated paper

Step 1. Let's start by creating the inner details of the flower. From a light green rectangle measuring 2.5*5 cm, cut out the embossed inner part of the bud - the lip.

Then we create an oval convex part and an oblong blank with a rounded edge.

From these blanks we will construct the middle of the bud, which is quite complex in structure.

Step 2. Set aside the cut out parts and start cutting out the flower petals. First we create two oval side petals. To do this, fold a light yellow piece of corrugation (3*5 cm) in half, and then give the base the shape of a petal.

We also cut out three almond-shaped petals from the second segment, which will be located behind the main pair of large petals. We bend all the petals to give them a realistic shape.

Step 3. Using hot glue, assemble all the cut out pieces into a bud. We glue the flower's lip from light green parts, after gluing a yellow flagellum to the base of the lip.

New Year's video recipe:

Then we attach two oval petals to the base.

Add the remaining petals.

Step 4. Glue a piece of wire to the bottom. We process the receptacle and stem of strips of green corrugation. Use brown watercolor to draw a speckled texture along the contour of the lip. Use a pale green shade of paint to shade the inside of the petals.

Step 5. Now you need to complement the flower with green leaves and spiral-shaped aerial roots. From green paper we create two teardrop-shaped blanks 11 cm long and 1-1.5 cm wide. Use the blades of scissors to twist them and glue them to the tip of the stem.

Orchid flowers are delicate and majestic. A hand-made orchid made from corrugated paper is no less beautiful than a living one. In this master class we will make a delightful orchid flower from paper. This time I used it to decorate a bottle of wine, but, of course, it can be used in other floral arrangements. After all, it is not only beautiful, but also easy to make. A step-by-step master class with photos will demonstrate all the intricacies of this process and I am sure that even for beginners it will not be difficult to cope with this pleasant work.

To create a paper orchid you will need:

• yellow and green corrugated paper;
• wire or wooden skewer;
• hot glue or PVA glue;
• school felt-tip pen - brown.

How to make an orchid from corrugated paper

Cut out the orchid petal templates from plain paper as shown in the picture.

Place the petal templates on crepe paper and cut them out. One flower will require 5 petals. How many and what kind of petals are needed can be seen in the photo.

When you cut it out, you will get blanks like this.

Apply stripes with a felt-tip pen along the upper edge of the central (carved) petal blank.

Twist the bottom edge of the petal and secure with glue.

Glue the wider orchid petals as shown in the photo.

Glue the narrower petal on top, between the two previously glued wide petals.

Glue the remaining two petals below, under the wide petals.

Glue the stick into the base of the flower and decorate with a green strip of paper or tape. The corrugated paper orchid for decoration is ready.

To fix the petals, you can use PVA glue; you need to apply it with a small drop, leave it for 5 minutes and only then press the parts to be glued. This method is suitable if the quantity needed for decoration is small and you have enough time to make them. Hot glue greatly simplifies and speeds up the process of making flowers from corrugated paper.

You can decorate orchids with paper flowers whatever you want, for example, like we did, we added delicate ones and decorated a bottle of wine with a bouquet. Present such a hand-decorated gift to your friends and acquaintances. 🙂

To begin, prepare cardboard templates of all the parts that we will cut from foamiran. I copied the pattern from a real phalaenopsis orchid flower.
If you have had the opportunity to carefully examine a blooming orchid, you have probably noticed that the flowers located lower on the branch are in most cases larger than the flowers located higher on the branch. That is why I have prepared templates for orchid flowers in two sizes: smaller (indicated by the letter S) and slightly larger (indicated by the letter M). For one branch we will need 2-3 flowers of size S, and 3-4 of size M. Parts number 4 are blanks for buds, sizes S and M.

Click on the picture to enlarge.

2. Cut out all the blanks from foamiran

We cut out the necessary parts from white foamiran. For one flower, we need to cut out blanks (one piece at a time) according to the templates:

1. Orchid lip, template No. 1;
2. Side petals (petals), template No. 2;
3. Sepals (sepalia), template No. 3;
4. The protruding part of the lip is the “chair”, template No. 5. This blank must be cut out by hand from a square measuring approximately 6x6 mm and cut into teeth randomly on both sides.

For buds, cut out one blank (template No. 4) per bud. 2-3 buds on a branch will be enough.

For those who are just starting to work with foamiran, I advise you not to use a pencil or other writing stationery to outline the template. Just attach it to a sheet of foamiran and trace it with a sharp object (needle, awl, etc.). The mark left by a sharp object on the loose surface of the foamiran will be quite clearly visible and will not leave dirty marks on the cut workpiece.

3. Tint the orchid lip

Using dry crayons using an applicator, apply a pigment of bright yellow and purple color as in the photo. On the reverse side, you can also tint this blank, but with lighter tones, thus imitating the translucency of the flower.

We also need to tint the “chair” blank, which is located in the center of the orchid’s lip. We paint it with the same purple color on both sides.

Using a thin brush with acrylic or oil paint, apply the spots/strokes characteristic of phalaenopsis orchids as in the photo.

This is what we get as a result: on the left is the front side of the lip, on the right is the reverse

4. Shape all parts of the flower

As usual, we heat the iron to the “wool” thermostat position, indicated by two dots on the thermostat.

Let's start with the simplest thing: the buds. We apply the bud blank to the iron. As the foamiran heats up, it will leave the surface of the iron and immediately take on the shape we need.

Now, take a blank with side petals (template No. 2), apply one petal to the iron, and carefully hold the other in your hand to prevent it from coming into contact with the hot surface of the iron.

While the foamiran has not cooled down, apply the heated petal to the mold and press it tightly with your fingers to the plastic texture.

We do the same with the second petal of the workpiece: we apply the untreated petal to the iron, and carefully protect the processed petal from contact with the hot sole of the iron.

As a result, we get petals with veins characteristic of an orchid:

Now, to “revive” the petals, let’s slightly extend their ends.

And with the pads of our thumbs we form indentations in the center of the petals.

These are the petals you should get.

We process the sepals: heat one of the three sepals with an iron, hold the rest with your hand.

Apply the heated sepal to the mold and press firmly.

Similarly, we apply the texture to the remaining two sepals, each time holding the treated parts, preventing them from reheating. The result is the following sepals:

Let's form the lip. We apply the workpiece with the front side (the one on which the spots were painted with a brush) to the iron.

As the foamiran heats up, it bends and lags behind the surface of the iron. By and large, the lip immediately takes the shape we need:

While the foamiran is warm, you can create a groove along the lip by pinching the fold with your fingers as shown in the photo.

Well, you can also roll up and tighten your mustache.

All that remains is to glue the “chair” to the core of the lip. The place of its attachment is indicated on template No. 1 with an orange oval.

We fold the blank along the “teeth”, form a fold, apply a little glue and attach the “chair” to the orchid’s lip. Without the help of tweezers, you are unlikely to succeed in this trick, so I advise you to use it.

Now you can tint the “teeth” yellow and, if desired, brighten the color of the “chair”.

5. Flower assembly

Let's start assembling the flower. We form a column: pour a drop of PVA glue onto a cotton swab and spread it over the fleecy surface of the stick to glue the cotton fibers together. While the glue has not hardened, you can dip the stick in starch and gently spread it with your fingers over the cotton surface of the stick, then the column will have a velvety surface.

We are waiting for the glue to dry. Cut the head of the stick to a length of 7-8 mm

We make a small loop at the end of the wire. Apply glue to it and place the resulting head of a cotton swab on the wire. Due to the loop, it will “sit” quite tightly on the wire, and the glue will help to firmly fix it in this position.

The column is ready. Glue the orchid lip to it. At this stage, you can use instant glue or second-time glue-gel.

Now we glue the side petals. Then the sepals.

In principle, the orchid is assembled and you can leave it as is. But, looking at the perfectly symmetrical shapes of her living flower, I want to modify ours a little: carefully apply a drop of second glue to the “wings” of the lips on both sides and fix them on the side petals symmetrically with respect to the column.

6. Assembling buds

We will make the base for the bud from cotton wool. We make a hook at the end of the wire, wind it with cotton wool, forming an oval-shaped bud. We wrap the wire with light green tape 3-4 cm below the bud.

We place the base on the central petal of the bud, and glue the outer ones together with “Moment” glue (gluing points on template No. 4 are marked with orange lines).

Now apply glue to the middle petal and glue it to the bud.

These are the buds you should get.

All that remains is to tint them. We cover the entire bud with yellow pastel, and then apply shadows with dark green, making smooth transitions. Be sure to paint dark green along the bud, down the center of each petal. You can add shades of red pigment.

This is how it should turn out as a result. You can lightly spray the buds with hairspray so that the pastel does not fall off and stain your hands.

6. Assembling the inflorescence

Now we will form a peduncle, collecting all the flowers and buds into a branch. In my opinion, it is more convenient to work with tape 5-6 mm wide, so I cut tape of standard width (12-13 mm) into two parts.

Under each flower, in an arbitrary place, we tightly wrap a section of wire 3-4 cm long. To make the stem thicker, we pass the tape over this section 3-4 times. Apply “moment” glue to the upper section of the resulting stem and pull the winding to the base of the flower. We do this operation with each flower.

Now, we connect the two buds together and begin to wrap the stem with tape down 3-4 cm.

We bend the stem to the right, and on the left side we put a flower of size S. We wrap the stem with tape together with the flower down 3-4 cm.

We bend the stem again, this time to the left, and attach the flower S to the right. And again we wrap the stem down 3-4 cm.

We increase the thickness of the stem with tape, wrapping the stalk 3-4 times. Now you can tint it with crayons or dark green paint.

And if you have a dark green tape at your disposal, then it is best to run it along the entire length of the central part of the stem.

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